Store Cupboard Staples James Martin: Home Comforts


Store Cupboard Staples

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Sometimes there is no place like home, and few things

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are more comforting and delicious than real home cooking.

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Living in this beautiful country with great produce

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right on our doorstep, we really are spoilt for choice.

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So in this series, I'm inviting you into my kitchen to share with you

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some of my tasty home-cooked treats.

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The dishes I turn to,

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whether entertaining friends and family or just relaxing on my own.

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Cooking for me is one of life's great pleasures, whether I am

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at work in my busy restaurant or cooking at home, here in Hampshire.

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One thing being a chef has taught me is how to enrich wonderful,

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fresh produce with everyday ingredients that any cook

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worth their salt should have at close hand.

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I don't know about you, but my food just wouldn't be the same

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without some store-cupboard staples.

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No longer will the pantry be a place where tins,

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jars and packets gather dust.

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I want to get you excited about elevating the everyday contents

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from a can into a meal to remember.

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Or turning the flavours from jars and bars into serious puds.

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We'll be discovering recipes from the medieval store cupboard

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and meeting some of our generation's finest artisan food producers -

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from a new kid on the block from the Southern Hemisphere

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to a South Downs artisan with much more mature tastes.

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When I am in the mood for making magical meals out of almost nothing,

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I turn to my Spanish-style chicken-and-chorizo bean stew.

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I think it is the beans in the stew that makes this dish

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really fantastic.

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Now, certainly one of the things that

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I have in the store cupboard are these.

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These are white haricot beans. They are delicious.

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So first of all, we need to get the chicken cooking.

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Now, I'm going to use chicken thighs and chicken legs

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cos I'm a great believer

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that they've got the most amount of flavour.

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A little bit of oil in the pan.

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A touch of butter. And then really start to colour the chicken.

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Now, this is a great dish because it's really quick.

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The whole thing takes the same amount of time

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as these chickens take to cook.

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To enrich the stew's flavour, I'm adding lemon, garlic

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and a good handful of rosemary and thyme.

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But that's not all.

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What I love with this is we can take a whole shallot,

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slice it through, pop that in the pan as well.

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You can eat the shallot when it comes out of the oven,

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it really tastes fantastic.

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The pan goes into a hot oven at 220 for ten minutes,

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leaving me time to flavour a jar of simple beans with a real

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staple of the Spanish store cupboard.

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But this is really the key to it.

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This is chorizo, or as my sister calls it, still,

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after all these years, coritzio.

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Chorizo.

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But it is the picante one, which is the really spicy one,

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and that's the one that I've got here.

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It contains a real amount... a good amount of paprika,

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which lends itself really well with this dish.

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And because I've got things like the chorizo and the garlic

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and the tomatoes and the beans,

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there is no real need to serve any veg with this.

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It's kind of, sort of, one-pot cooking

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for quick and easy meals out of your store cupboard.

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To get this Spanish-style stew under way, get a pan nice and hot

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and add some good olive oil.

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But not oil from just anywhere.

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Now, I'm going to upset the Italians to say that, I think,

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the Spanish produce as good an olive oil as anybody.

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But also what the Spanish are fantastic at is pork,

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and that is why the chorizo that you get in Spain

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and you get in supermarkets nowadays is really, really fabulous.

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With the chorizo starting to release those wonderful smoky paprika oils,

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I can add some tomatoes, diced shallots and garlic.

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If you don't have fresh tomatoes, you can use good tinned ones.

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It will still taste great.

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Although it is all out of store-cupboard ingredients,

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it really packs a punch.

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You could, of course, if you wanted to,

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use dried rosemary or thyme if you haven't got fresh.

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Which go brilliant with chicken.

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What we're going to do is just wilt down the tomatoes.

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What will help that, a little bit, is the addition of stock.

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Just a little bit of chicken stock.

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Just to help break down the tomatoes.

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All I need to do is bring these colours

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and flavours of Spain to a simmer.

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And then I can turn a haricot bean from the cupboard shelf

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into something really delicious.

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You can almost eat them as a snack, they are so good.

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They're just delicious.

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Lovely, rich.

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They are kind of like the best baked beans you'll ever have in your life.

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You just pour them straight in.

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The great thing about these beans is they are already cooked,

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so they just need warming through.

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So in very little time, we are almost ready.

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You have got pieces of chorizo in there. You've got the tomatoes.

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It is like the ultimate stew, but without all the hassle.

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And then all we do now, just to almost finish this off now, is grab

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some parsley, just roughly chop it.

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And throw that in.

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It looks good enough to eat on its own,

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but after just ten minutes in a really hot oven,

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the chicken is ready to dish up.

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You get your lovely beans, a piece of each chicken.

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The roasted shallots.

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All the caramelisation you've got on the sliced bit,

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you can eat that.

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But then not forgetting that you've got a lovely bit of roast garlic

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to dive into as well.

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It tastes fantastic.

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It's brilliant. It's so quick and easy.

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So there you have it - my chicken-and-chorizo bean stew,

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a dish that elevates a store cupboard supper

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into a meal fit for a king.

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And in fact, these days, wherever you live in the UK, there is

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no excuse for not combining the building blocks

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from your store cupboard with the best top-quality local produce

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you can find.

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Here in Hampshire, I'm always amazed by the award-winning meat,

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fish, fruit, veg and dairy products right here on my doorstep.

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Just down the road from me is local cheese producer Mike Smales.

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He makes one of the very best hard cheeses around.

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My name is Mike Smales, and we have been here since 1969.

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We run about 170 cows, make a tonne of cheese a week.

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We found a little place in the market for ourselves.

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And ours is a hard yellow cheese that can be

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used as a substitute for Parmesan

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for those who want a 100% English ingredient.

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Behold the Old Winchester - a sturdy vintage cheese that has been

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turning heads all over the UK and beyond.

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Bronze-award winner at the World Cheese Awards, which is no mean feat.

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And ours was the only British cheese to pick up a prize.

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The rest were all Manchegos

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and Parmesans from other parts of the world.

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And this exciting product is the result of years of careful

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planning by Mike, starting with his herd of cows.

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When we started cheese-making, it was all about adding value

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to our milk that the cows produce on this farm.

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We bred them quite specifically,

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so we have got that quality of milk to work with.

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And inevitably, the general topography, the soil type,

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the sward and the grass that they all eat

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during the course of the summer period all makes a contribution.

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But now he is reaping the rewards.

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And the first stage of production is remarkably quick,

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but it does involve an early start.

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The cows are milked at 5:30 in the morning.

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I bring the milk around at seven o'clock

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and we pasteurise the milk straightaway.

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We add a starter, we add a rennet.

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We then leave the milk for about an hour.

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# The look of love... #

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The process might be scientific,

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but to make a truly great cheese requires a more tender approach.

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This is where the skill of the cheese-maker comes in.

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He has to know exactly when to use the curd knife

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and to cut the curd.

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The company produces around 50 tonnes of cheese a year,

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and all of it is lovingly done by hand.

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First, the curd and whey need to be separated

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and the cheese-maker's individual touch is essential

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to achieve the best quality.

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Once it is drained, the curd is popped into the mould.

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Remarkably, the milk, from being in the cow at 5:30 in the morning,

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it is then in moulds and looking like cheese at about one o'clock.

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Really a remarkably short journey in a short time period.

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And the milk has only had to travel 70 yards.

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This door here leads to the ripening room,

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of which there is about four or five on the farm here.

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After soaking in a brine solution for 24 hours,

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the wheels of cheese are sent to the drying room

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for a week before they end up here in the maturing room.

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It is here the real magic happens and the waiting begins.

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These will be turned twice a week.

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And when I say turned, you just pull them out, turn them up the other way.

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And we do that to balance the whey within the cheese.

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This is the youngest cheese that is in here at the moment,

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so this is what we've brought in in the last week.

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And then right at the end here, actually,

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we've got some Old Winchester.

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That is about 18 months.

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But they are not ready to be sold yet.

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We will sell those in about probably another two to three months' time.

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You can see the difference in colour. These are now much darker.

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They have dried out.

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They have gone from being quite yellow to really quite

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a fawny colour. And are much harder.

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You lob one of those at the window

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and it will go straight through the window,

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it certainly won't bounce off.

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But a more traditional way to test its strength

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might be to taste it.

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-Oh, it smells nice.

-Mm.

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-That is actually spot-on.

-Absolutely.

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Old Winchester certainly looks like it will be around

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for a long time to come.

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A local success story that is making

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a real mark on the culinary landscape.

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So I'm looking forward to welcoming Mike into my kitchen

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to use his celebrated cheese

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in my twice-baked souffle with dandelion and walnut salad -

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a superb savoury meal with some unique flavours.

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Now, everybody has got cheese in their store cupboard,

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but none so special as this.

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Mike, you have brought along some of this fine Old Winchester.

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-How old is this one, then?

-It'll be about 20 months old.

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The textures, as I'm cutting it,

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it's kind of similar to Parmesan in terms of the way it flakes.

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Would you class it as sort of a Parmesan-style cheese or what?

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It's getting that way,

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but technically it's not made the same way as a Parmesan.

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So effectively, this is a hybrid, if you like.

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-It's not a cheddar, it's not a Parmesan.

-A hybrid?!

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-Yeah.

-OK.

-It's a bit like you and your recipes, if you like.

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You start somewhere and then you progress

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and get to the stage where you think, "Yeah, like that."

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-We make it up, don't we?

-Yeah, make it up as you go along.

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The starting point for this recipe is a white sauce, or roux,

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made up of three classic staples - butter, flour and then milk.

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Gradually add the milk and keep stirring to avoid any lumps forming.

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Why cheese for you, then?

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Why particularly hard cheese? You could have done soft.

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I started with an agenda that was "not cheddar".

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The world makes cheddar, so we need to keep clear of that.

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We needed to make something that wasn't too niche,

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so it had quite a broad appeal.

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And for me, its appeal is it's fantastic to cook with.

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So I am using it with some Dijon in the roux base for my souffle.

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So, with the farmers, it's something that's...

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Particularly the movement from dairy production

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to cheese-making, is that something that has sort of taken over for you?

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Inevitably, I have changed really from being a muddy-boots farmer

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to a kind of van-driving cheese salesman.

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Yeah.

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And it has, it has taken over,

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whereas my elder son now tends to do all the muddy-boots bit

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and I tend to do the white-boots bit, really.

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Any souffle needs eggs to give it that all-important rise.

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In a clean, grease-free bowl, separate three eggs

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and whisk up the whites until they're stiff,

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then mix in the egg yolks into the roux,

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which by now has slightly cooled.

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What we do is we just pop our mixture into the bowl.

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Really, when you're doing souffle, don't namby-pamby with it,

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chuck it in.

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Too many times with souffle, people mess around

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and follow ye old cookbooks that tell you to fold, figure of eight,

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fold, figure of eight, and you are still stood here

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about two hours' time, still doing that same process.

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Because it is a souffle,

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the egg whites will actually start collapsing the longer we keep it

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out of that oven, so get it in the oven as fast as possible.

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Divide the mixture and pour into four buttered ramekins.

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They are almost ready for the oven.

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So what I am going to do now is basically just take

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a little bit of water in the tray.

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Now, the reason for a tray of water is to actually stop

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the outside of the souffle from burning or overcooking.

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It's technically a bain-marie,

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but for us farmers, it's a tray of hot water, you see?

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These souffles go into the oven at 180 for 20 minutes

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to work their magic. How do you eat yours, then?

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Probably just plain on a cheeseboard, don't you?

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The cheese in general will come in many forms,

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but that is my wife's jurisdiction, I don't get involved in the kitchen.

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I'll stick to making it.

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Now, what would you say the taste of this is similar to?

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A lot of people will say nuts

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and other people say there is a little smoky background.

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It is a flavour that just evolves naturally.

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And that's the thing about making artisan products.

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That is our job in life,

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to make things that are just that little bit different.

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But it has got a lovely creaminess with it as well.

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When you make a Parmesan, they will actually strip some of the cream off.

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That is made from full-cream milk, compared with the Parmesan cheese,

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where they use effectively almost a semi-skimmed milk.

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Semi-skimmed milk is a swear word in this house.

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There is nothing semi-skimmed about the sauce for these souffles -

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it's rich and so simple.

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It's basically just this.

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Double cream.

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A bit of black pepper.

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Black pepper is obviously a spice, so technically it is a herb,

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which is a veg, which is part of your five a day!

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-Yep.

-Same thing with salt.

-I'll buy that.

-You buy that one?

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-I'll buy that.

-And then some Kirsch.

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Now, Kirsch is that well-known German cherry liqueur.

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And that's it.

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There is nothing else that goes in the sauce, other than that.

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The souffles are almost ready for that sauce,

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which means I can assemble my twist on a solid garnish -

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candied walnuts.

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Boil up sugar in water, and simmer until it is slightly thickened

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and then in with a handful of walnuts for two to three minutes.

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Remove from the syrup and deep-fry in veg oil until golden brown.

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These taste fantastic.

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Try one of those.

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A perfect garnish for a cheeseboard for your cheese, you see?

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-Mmm. Spot on.

-They're great, aren't they?

-Lovely.

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After about 15 minutes,

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they are OK to eat, but we're not going to cook them too long

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and let them rise too much cos these are double-baked souffles.

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So I am going to turn my oven to a grill now.

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Just turn these out. Just lift them out.

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They will be nice and light.

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You can actually keep these in the fridge or you can freeze them.

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They freeze brilliantly. Carefully lift them up.

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That sits in the dish. And then you have got this lovely mixture.

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You just know it is going to be good when something has got cream

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and alcohol in it.

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-Can't go wrong. Can't go wrong.

-Just pour this over the top.

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Now, I was actually wondering what I was going to do

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with your fantastic cheese.

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I thought, do I just leave it, do something simple?

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Or do something a little bit elaborate?

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I think souffle is one of those dishes that just kind of have

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misconceptions really with it.

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People have never tried making them

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so they don't actually realise how easy they are.

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Particularly a double-baked souffle like this, it's nice and simple.

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So, cheese over the top.

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What we do now is take this

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and pop it under the grill for about two minutes.

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As a healthy accompaniment to my souffle,

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I'm using something people may think of as a garden invader.

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Now I'm going to do a little salad with this,

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and I'm going to use some dandelion leaves.

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As good for you as kale, you can

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buy them from some farmers markets or health food shops.

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They make a great addition to this simple salad.

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Chopped chives. Just roughly chopped.

0:17:440:17:46

Throw that in. I've always got some of this to hand.

0:17:480:17:51

This is a little bit of my own sort of home-made dressing.

0:17:510:17:55

Mix that together...

0:17:550:17:56

..with this. And of course,

0:17:580:18:01

you've got these candied walnuts.

0:18:010:18:03

Now, when you try these when they're... Go on, try those.

0:18:030:18:05

They've got a lovely crunch to these.

0:18:050:18:08

-It's the sugar in there as well. I just love these.

-Sweet.

0:18:080:18:11

I think they're delicious.

0:18:110:18:12

And then you have got a nice little salad.

0:18:120:18:15

And then, you see, it actually puffs up again.

0:18:170:18:20

So this is where you get this idea...

0:18:220:18:24

Hold it, hold it, Michael, hold it!

0:18:240:18:26

-That's hot.

-He's diving in!

0:18:260:18:27

I think this is a little more elaborate than just chucking

0:18:290:18:32

your cheese on a cheeseboard, but dive in, tell us what you think.

0:18:320:18:36

That's pretty good.

0:18:430:18:45

-Pretty good.

-Tastes good, doesn't it?

-That is good.

0:18:460:18:48

What's great about this is there is so much flavour in there,

0:18:480:18:51

which comes through the souffle as well.

0:18:510:18:52

Often when you do souffles, you need to use a cheese like this,

0:18:520:18:55

which has got a decent amount of flavour to it.

0:18:550:18:57

-That's yummy.

-I like that.

0:18:570:18:59

And you have made good use of the weeds in the garden as well.

0:19:010:19:04

I think I'll take that as a compliment.

0:19:050:19:07

It's amazing how the more unusual forage ingredients

0:19:070:19:10

are changing the way we cook today.

0:19:100:19:13

One thing that has really stood the test of time

0:19:160:19:19

is the real hub of the kitchen.

0:19:190:19:21

For centuries, the store cupboard has stashed away

0:19:210:19:24

ingredients for a wealth of amazing home-cooked recipes.

0:19:240:19:27

In his Yorkshire kitchen-cum-food-laboratory,

0:19:330:19:36

Gerard Baker is rustling up a home-cooked treat

0:19:360:19:39

from the medieval store cupboard.

0:19:390:19:41

We might think of medieval food as being quite bland,

0:19:410:19:45

but in actual fact, medieval cooks drew on a wide variety of spices.

0:19:450:19:50

I've got some spices that would have been commonly

0:19:500:19:52

used in the wealthiest of households.

0:19:520:19:55

Here, we have got ginger, cloves - lovely and aromatic.

0:19:550:20:00

Saffron, which is one of the few spices

0:20:000:20:02

that could've been grown in England.

0:20:020:20:03

And of course, Saffron Walden bears testament to that.

0:20:030:20:07

Cinnamon. The medieval spice that we now use very widely... Sugar -

0:20:070:20:12

a rarity in the medieval kitchen.

0:20:120:20:15

It didn't come into prominence widely till 1600 or 1700.

0:20:150:20:20

Today, Gerard is cooking farced partridge, which means stuffed.

0:20:200:20:24

And he is going to be delving into his medieval store cupboard

0:20:240:20:28

to make a flavoursome filling based around one of the staple

0:20:280:20:31

main ingredients of the day - salted pork.

0:20:310:20:34

The medieval store cupboard would have contained salted meat,

0:20:370:20:40

because that was one way the medieval cook could've preserved meat

0:20:400:20:44

for use in the winter. Pigs would be killed in the autumn

0:20:440:20:47

and would keep a family going all the winter, provided the meat was salted.

0:20:470:20:53

The salted pork I'm using is going to baste and season

0:20:530:20:56

the breast of the partridge.

0:20:560:20:58

I'm going to add some more medieval ingredients from my store cupboard.

0:20:580:21:02

The first one is a source of sweetness - the currant.

0:21:020:21:05

The medieval cook would have had access to dried fruits

0:21:050:21:08

from the near continent, so that is grapes.

0:21:080:21:10

In the case of currants, from northern Africa.

0:21:100:21:14

And then further afield, dates. And later, apricots.

0:21:140:21:18

I'm going to add some sage.

0:21:190:21:20

And some fresh thyme.

0:21:220:21:24

We love our fresh herbs today, and the medieval cook was just the same.

0:21:240:21:28

They would have kept this all growing near to the kitchen.

0:21:280:21:31

The next addition to the stuffing is spices.

0:21:310:21:36

Gerard adds a few sprinkles of ginger and pepper,

0:21:370:21:40

ground in a mortar.

0:21:400:21:42

They were often used together in medieval cooking

0:21:420:21:44

and we will add some spice to the partridge.

0:21:440:21:48

The medieval cook was really adventurous.

0:21:490:21:52

And I think partly that is explained by the fact that

0:21:520:21:55

so much was being discovered.

0:21:550:21:56

People rushed to use everything that was new, everything that was novel.

0:21:560:22:00

The store cupboard has changed over the centuries

0:22:040:22:07

as new ingredients become widely available.

0:22:070:22:10

And what we tend to see is the store cupboards

0:22:100:22:13

of the wealthiest households leading the way.

0:22:130:22:16

They would have used far more spice

0:22:160:22:18

and sugar than anybody else in the country.

0:22:180:22:20

Wonderful spices were really the preserve of the wealthy.

0:22:220:22:25

Edward I's store cupboard was very valuable.

0:22:250:22:28

It had everything from almonds, rice and ginger

0:22:280:22:31

to saffron, cumin, and in one year, 2,000 pounds of sugar,

0:22:310:22:36

which would have cost a king's ransom.

0:22:360:22:38

So, my stuffing for the partridge is finished.

0:22:380:22:41

It is chopped nice and finely. All that remains for me to do

0:22:410:22:45

is to insert some of it under the skin on the breast of the bird.

0:22:450:22:50

Partridge, along with many other small birds like quail, larks,

0:22:510:22:56

blackbirds, pigeons, were regularly stuffed and roasted in this manner.

0:22:560:23:02

So now I have finished stuffing the birds, I need to cook them.

0:23:020:23:06

But rather than bake them in a normal oven, which is

0:23:060:23:08

what we'd do in a modern kitchen,

0:23:080:23:10

I'm going to roast them by the fire.

0:23:100:23:12

It's surprising how quickly we can roast these birds

0:23:160:23:18

in front of this lovely bed of wood coals.

0:23:180:23:22

It will take about 20 to 25 minutes,

0:23:220:23:24

about the same time as it would take me to cook in my oven.

0:23:240:23:28

In medieval times, of course,

0:23:290:23:30

the fire was really the only source of heat, so people would have

0:23:300:23:34

learned to cook almost everything on an open fire of some sort.

0:23:340:23:38

So it looks to me like the partridges are nearly done.

0:23:420:23:45

So what I would like to do now is take them just to one side

0:23:450:23:48

to keep warm whilst I prepare a sweet and sour sauce for them.

0:23:480:23:53

The sauce is based on red wine, sour verjus, which is made

0:23:530:23:57

from un-ripened grapes, exotic cinnamon, a pinch of saffron,

0:23:570:24:01

onion and honey to add sweetness.

0:24:010:24:04

You may not think a sweet-and-sour sauce sounds very medieval,

0:24:050:24:08

but in those days, cooks mixed things up a bit

0:24:080:24:11

and the borders between sweet and savoury flavours

0:24:110:24:15

were much more blurred.

0:24:150:24:17

This might not seem to be the kind of recipe you'd make

0:24:170:24:19

from the modern store cupboard,

0:24:190:24:21

but what is lovely about it is that so many of the medieval

0:24:210:24:24

ingredients from the medieval store cupboard are available to us today,

0:24:240:24:27

so there is no reason why we shouldn't try other recipes,

0:24:270:24:30

cos they are delicious.

0:24:300:24:31

One classic recipe that many of us

0:24:360:24:38

will always turn to is a flavour of soup that I'm sure

0:24:380:24:40

most of you watching have in your store cupboards.

0:24:400:24:44

But hopefully, my take on home-made tomato soup will inspire you

0:24:440:24:47

to make your own, especially when it is served with

0:24:470:24:50

a kind of garlic bread you won't forget in a hurry.

0:24:500:24:53

For me, one of my favourite store cupboard ingredients

0:24:540:24:58

has to be these - tinned tomatoes.

0:24:580:25:00

But these are really special tomatoes,

0:25:000:25:02

these are San Marzano tomatoes.

0:25:020:25:04

These are beautiful. Look out for them on the tin.

0:25:040:25:07

They are really sweet, less seeds, but they make the most amazing soup,

0:25:070:25:11

and that is what I'm going to do now - a tomato soup

0:25:110:25:13

with garlic butter.

0:25:130:25:14

This really is, in my opinion,

0:25:170:25:18

one of the best garlic butters around, really,

0:25:180:25:20

cos it's a roasted garlic butter.

0:25:200:25:23

To stop the skins from burning, wrap the entire bulb in foil

0:25:230:25:27

and roast it at 170 for 45 minutes.

0:25:270:25:30

This gives me plenty of time to show you something you can all try -

0:25:310:25:35

home-made butter.

0:25:350:25:36

It's actually more simple than you think.

0:25:360:25:39

All it is, really, is double cream.

0:25:390:25:41

Now, we just mix this together until it separates.

0:25:480:25:52

Now you whisk this so much that it actually starts to thicken up

0:25:520:25:55

the cream and then, all of a sudden, it will split,

0:25:550:25:57

and that is when you have got butter.

0:25:570:25:59

It may seem like a time-consuming process, but it is a great way

0:25:590:26:03

to use up leftover double cream that otherwise may end up in the bin.

0:26:030:26:07

If you have got any that is out of date or getting out of date, before

0:26:070:26:10

it goes too sort of smelly, stick it in here and make your own butter.

0:26:100:26:15

So, when you have got that mixing, we can get together a draining cloth

0:26:150:26:19

which we have got in here.

0:26:190:26:20

I'm going to use some of this. A little bit of muslin.

0:26:200:26:23

You can use a tea towel.

0:26:230:26:24

And this is to get rid of the water or the whey part of it, really.

0:26:240:26:27

What we are after is the solids that are left behind.

0:26:270:26:31

And that, in actual fact, is our butter.

0:26:310:26:33

It's amazing that after five minutes, the liquid

0:26:330:26:36

you knew as double cream has taken on a completely new texture.

0:26:360:26:40

What you are looking for with this...

0:26:400:26:42

It goes from sort of a whipped cream,

0:26:420:26:44

and the more you mix it, it ends up looking like pastry,

0:26:440:26:47

as sort of the cream separates,

0:26:470:26:49

and it basically almost looks like an overcooked scrambled egg.

0:26:490:26:54

But I can assure you, when it is done,

0:26:540:26:56

it will taste a hell of a lot better.

0:26:560:26:59

You end up with this. You see the liquid that is in it?

0:26:590:27:02

It may look a long way from being melted on toast,

0:27:020:27:05

but after being drained through a muslin

0:27:050:27:07

and formed into a shape, it feels great to have been able to

0:27:070:27:10

make my own butter - something I get through plenty of.

0:27:100:27:13

What you end up with, I think is great when you make it yourself...

0:27:130:27:18

..is that.

0:27:210:27:22

How cool is that? Your own home-made butter.

0:27:230:27:27

With my butter looking truly homespun and the garlic on stand-by,

0:27:270:27:31

I want to get my store cupboard soup with tinned tomatoes on the stove.

0:27:310:27:35

The tinned tomatoes is really the main flavour of my soup, that is

0:27:350:27:39

why it is important, for this,

0:27:390:27:41

you get really good-quality tinned tomatoes.

0:27:410:27:43

Olive oil, shallots and two tins of these lovely Italian tomatoes -

0:27:430:27:48

it couldn't be simpler.

0:27:480:27:49

And then all I'm going to do is just grab some fresh basil

0:27:510:27:55

and throw that in.

0:27:550:27:57

And then we bring this to the boil

0:27:590:28:01

and just gently simmer this for two or three minutes.

0:28:010:28:05

I think a beautiful, bold Italian soup deserves

0:28:050:28:08

the best croutons for my roasted garlic butter.

0:28:080:28:12

Now, you are at MY house now.

0:28:130:28:15

None of that fancy, small, diced stuff.

0:28:150:28:17

Some proper croutons.

0:28:200:28:21

Drizzle of oil.

0:28:230:28:25

Over the top.

0:28:260:28:27

Now, what I'm going to do with these is chargrill them, but

0:28:270:28:30

if you haven't got a griddle like this at home, you can

0:28:300:28:33

actually use a griddle pan.

0:28:330:28:34

But the key to using a griddle pan is to get it really hot.

0:28:340:28:38

And always oil the food, never oil the pan.

0:28:380:28:40

Now, to finish off the butter.

0:28:420:28:44

As you will soon see,

0:28:440:28:45

there is a very good reason for roasting the garlic.

0:28:450:28:48

The most important thing with this... It's lovely

0:28:490:28:51

and soft inside as the garlic roasts.

0:28:510:28:55

Mix in the flesh of the garlic and some more fresh basil.

0:28:580:29:02

Now, the great thing about making your own butter

0:29:050:29:07

or whether you are incorporating just ready-made butter with

0:29:070:29:11

roasted garlic or anything like that,

0:29:110:29:13

it actually freezes really well.

0:29:130:29:15

And then, really, when it comes to the soup, you just blitz it.

0:29:170:29:21

Oh, I like my gadgets in my kitchen. Stick blender. Stand back.

0:29:230:29:27

Tinned tomatoes from Italy transported in my Hampshire kitchen

0:29:290:29:33

into something I can't get enough of.

0:29:330:29:36

You've got this simple tomato soup that you have made out of a can,

0:29:410:29:45

and it actually tastes

0:29:450:29:46

so much better than conventional soup out of a can as well.

0:29:460:29:50

And to top it all off, leftover double cream

0:29:510:29:53

churned into butter for the ultimate in garlic bread.

0:29:530:29:57

Store cupboard food never used to look like that in my house.

0:30:000:30:03

It really is fantastic, and it is one of the store cupboard essentials

0:30:090:30:13

I think that everybody should have.

0:30:130:30:14

Tinned tomatoes - you can transform them

0:30:140:30:16

into so many different things.

0:30:160:30:18

But when you are out there buying them, look out for the word

0:30:180:30:21

San Marzano, cos in this, it makes all the difference.

0:30:210:30:25

It's great, that.

0:30:270:30:29

Whether it's tinned Italian tomatoes or something completely

0:30:350:30:38

original appearing on our shelves,

0:30:380:30:41

new foods are popping up everywhere, thanks to the work of a hidden

0:30:410:30:45

army of passionate, home-based food producers.

0:30:450:30:49

Their home-made delicacies are playing a key role in putting

0:30:490:30:52

better food on our tables.

0:30:520:30:54

The rolling green hills and warm sunny climate

0:30:590:31:01

of the Isle of Wight are famous for producing

0:31:010:31:04

everything from garlic to grapes.

0:31:040:31:06

But there is a food producer who has brought a little

0:31:060:31:08

taste of Africa to this idyllic landscape.

0:31:080:31:11

At Newnham Farm, Zimbabwean Nick Greeff and his English wife, Sarah,

0:31:130:31:17

are producing an exotic South African store cupboard staple

0:31:170:31:21

that is winning awards - biltong.

0:31:210:31:24

Biltong is the most important food to my husband,

0:31:240:31:26

he couldn't live without it.

0:31:260:31:28

I love biltong so much, I have it in the morning for breakfast,

0:31:280:31:32

a snack throughout the day.

0:31:320:31:34

I even have it, if I'm allowed to, as pudding after meals.

0:31:340:31:38

So, I figured the only way for him

0:31:380:31:40

to survive in England was to make it ourselves.

0:31:400:31:43

Biltong is almost unheard of on these shores,

0:31:430:31:45

and Nick thought the examples he did find were terrible.

0:31:450:31:49

So to cater for his obsession, they set up a company

0:31:490:31:52

and started making their own to a traditional recipe.

0:31:520:31:56

But what exactly is it?

0:31:560:31:58

What it actually is is air-cured meat.

0:31:580:32:02

Air-curing meat was a great way to preserve before the days

0:32:020:32:06

of refrigeration

0:32:060:32:07

and gives it a distinctive taste.

0:32:070:32:10

It works particularly well in hot, dry climates,

0:32:100:32:13

and Nick's tradition goes right back to his ancestors' store cupboards.

0:32:130:32:17

My family was part of the Voortrekker movement that

0:32:170:32:20

came from the Cape, moving into the interior of Africa in the 1860s.

0:32:200:32:25

And their way of keeping meat fresh without refrigeration was to

0:32:250:32:29

cut it up and hang it.

0:32:290:32:32

My earliest memories of biltong

0:32:320:32:33

were standing on a stool next to the kitchen table,

0:32:330:32:36

laying out the meat or spicing it with my grandfather

0:32:360:32:40

on our cattle ranch in Zimbabwe.

0:32:400:32:42

So does the Sarah share her husband's love of biltong?

0:32:420:32:46

My guilty secret is I have never eaten it because, actually,

0:32:460:32:49

I'm a vegetarian.

0:32:490:32:51

Of course, the meat available in Zimbabwe is a different world

0:32:510:32:55

to the Isle of Wight.

0:32:550:32:56

Originally, we'd use every animal from elephant, buffalo,

0:32:560:33:01

impala, whatever you were lucky enough to come across

0:33:010:33:04

and you could get a shot at them.

0:33:040:33:06

We use beef today, and quite a lot of people prefer beef biltong.

0:33:060:33:10

The way we are going to make it today

0:33:100:33:12

is as close to traditional making biltong that we could do.

0:33:120:33:15

This flavour is pepper flavour, it is one of my favourites.

0:33:150:33:19

It is the original biltong

0:33:190:33:21

and the one that my grandfather showed me many years ago.

0:33:210:33:25

After four hours soaking up the flavours of the pepper,

0:33:250:33:29

Nick dips the beef in vinegar, which aids the curing process

0:33:290:33:32

and helps preserve it better in our damper climate.

0:33:320:33:36

It is then hung up to dry for four to six days.

0:33:380:33:41

We created this drying room to replicate the temperature

0:33:430:33:47

and atmosphere of Africa,

0:33:470:33:49

which, as you can see, dries up the biltong to perfection.

0:33:490:33:54

Bite into a piece of dry biltong,

0:33:550:33:57

suddenly the taste of the beef starts to shine through.

0:33:570:34:01

The spices that you use should just be a hint in the background.

0:34:010:34:04

The taste of biltong is something most people won't have

0:34:040:34:07

experienced in their life before.

0:34:070:34:09

And at a shop specialising in Isle of Wight produce,

0:34:090:34:13

Nick and Sarah try out their biltong on the locals.

0:34:130:34:16

-That's good.

-It does taste like beef more than anything.

0:34:160:34:19

You can really taste the meat and it is good-quality beef.

0:34:190:34:22

You get that lovely meaty taste. And the herbs that go with it.

0:34:220:34:25

It's actually very nice to have something

0:34:250:34:27

made on the Isle of Wight that doesn't include garlic

0:34:270:34:29

-as the sole ingredient.

-Big improvement to peanuts.

0:34:290:34:32

To go out and get a reaction and for people to say,

0:34:320:34:34

"No, we love it, keep making it," is just fantastic.

0:34:340:34:36

It is lovely to be making a product that is part of our heritage.

0:34:360:34:40

And to bring it into a new culture

0:34:400:34:43

and introduce it to people who appreciate it as much as I do.

0:34:430:34:47

Sharing food with friends and family or a whole new crowd

0:34:470:34:51

is what I have always loved.

0:34:510:34:53

And the next dish is what I would call part of my culinary heritage -

0:34:530:34:57

white chocolate and whisky bread and butter pudding

0:34:570:35:00

with honeycomb foam and whisky ice cream.

0:35:000:35:03

Created from the contents of my cupboard,

0:35:030:35:05

this is a show-stopping dish that always leaves people wanting more.

0:35:050:35:11

Now, I am quite fortunate to have

0:35:110:35:12

plenty of stuff in my store cupboard,

0:35:120:35:15

including white chocolate, a bit of whisky and a few vanilla pods.

0:35:150:35:19

This is a dish that has never been off my restaurant menu,

0:35:190:35:22

and it is really a fallback dish that I always cook at home.

0:35:220:35:25

So we want four decent-sized croissants.

0:35:300:35:34

Like that. There's always a little bit left...

0:35:340:35:37

leftover as well.

0:35:370:35:38

Like all bread and butter puddings,

0:35:380:35:41

a handful of sultanas from the store cupboard are followed

0:35:410:35:44

by a liberal sprinkling of, yes, you guessed it, butter.

0:35:440:35:48

And now for our custard.

0:35:480:35:51

For that, this is where we start to get a little bit serious.

0:35:510:35:55

Not this much double cream, but not far off.

0:35:550:35:57

So we need half double cream to milk.

0:35:570:36:01

I'm then going to infuse that with vanilla.

0:36:070:36:11

Scrape out the vanilla seeds

0:36:110:36:12

and add along with the pods into the rich, creamy milk.

0:36:120:36:16

Now for the eggs to make the all-important vanilla custard.

0:36:180:36:22

Traditionally, really, you'd use about six whole eggs to set

0:36:220:36:26

a litre of liquid, which this is.

0:36:260:36:28

But I'm going to use a mixture of whole eggs and egg yolks.

0:36:280:36:32

By using six egg yolks and three whole eggs,

0:36:330:36:36

this pudding will have more of a sauce

0:36:360:36:38

and a slightly lighter texture.

0:36:380:36:41

With the milk and the cream nicely warming through,

0:36:410:36:43

I add 200g of caster sugar to the eggs, then whisk.

0:36:430:36:47

I can't tell you how many times I have made this pudding.

0:36:490:36:52

It all came about via a mistake.

0:36:520:36:55

It was when I was the pastry chef of Mr Antony Worrall Thompson

0:36:550:36:59

in one of his restaurants.

0:36:590:37:01

And good old Antony,

0:37:010:37:03

instead of ordering sort of three dozen croissants,

0:37:030:37:06

33 dozen croissants turned up one day, and I had to use them all up.

0:37:060:37:10

And this was a recipe that we both sort of invented, really.

0:37:100:37:14

Everybody seems to love it.

0:37:140:37:16

And it's only until after they've eaten it,

0:37:160:37:19

you tell them exactly how many calories are in it.

0:37:190:37:22

Maybe it's the...not one, not two, but three bars of white chocolate

0:37:240:37:29

that people love, mixed into cream-and-vanilla-infused milk.

0:37:290:37:34

Take it off the heat now,

0:37:340:37:36

cos otherwise that chocolate is going to burn

0:37:360:37:39

to the bottom of our pan.

0:37:390:37:41

So give it a quick mix and make sure they are all combined.

0:37:410:37:45

And then what we do is we pour this mixture

0:37:450:37:48

onto the egg yolks.

0:37:480:37:50

Whisk this together.

0:37:530:37:55

And now you throw in the whisky.

0:37:550:37:58

Just a little bit...more.

0:38:000:38:02

Give it a little taste.

0:38:040:38:06

Do you know what?

0:38:080:38:10

It's at a time like this where I could actually stop now, don't even

0:38:100:38:13

put that in there, just get a straw and drink this, it is so good.

0:38:130:38:17

It is delicious, this.

0:38:170:38:19

Tempting it may be, but with a hungry crew to feed,

0:38:210:38:24

I need to pour this mixture into the croissants

0:38:240:38:27

and leave it to soak for about 15 minutes.

0:38:270:38:30

This is one of those puds that is a real treat,

0:38:310:38:34

and I like to elevate it even higher with the addition of a nice

0:38:340:38:37

dollop of home-made whisky ice cream.

0:38:370:38:41

This is 400ml of double cream gone in here.

0:38:410:38:45

About 100ml of milk.

0:38:450:38:47

A little bit of vanilla.

0:38:490:38:51

So what we are going to do is just warm up the vanilla and the cream,

0:38:510:38:55

and then we take almost the same combination of ingredients.

0:38:550:38:58

Six egg yolks, 100g of caster sugar,

0:38:580:39:03

whisk together and then mix the cream and the milk,

0:39:030:39:06

just like a custard.

0:39:060:39:08

Now, conventionally, of course, ice cream would be made in exactly

0:39:100:39:14

the same way and then churned in an ice cream machine,

0:39:140:39:16

which you can do at home.

0:39:160:39:17

Ice cream machines are becoming more and more popular.

0:39:170:39:20

But I have got one of these fancy gadgets now that enables you

0:39:200:39:23

to do ice cream in a slightly different way.

0:39:230:39:26

With the eggs and cream combined, add a good dash of whisky

0:39:260:39:30

and then warm it gently through.

0:39:300:39:32

Keep whisking it.

0:39:330:39:35

As the bubbles start to disappear,

0:39:350:39:37

you can tell the custard is getting thicker.

0:39:370:39:40

It starts to thicken up. We don't want to allow it to boil.

0:39:400:39:43

And then at that point, you can take it off the heat.

0:39:430:39:47

Sieve the infused liquid into a bowl.

0:39:490:39:51

And then transfer it into the freezer.

0:39:520:39:54

And then we are just about ready to finish off our pudding.

0:39:580:40:01

We can then top this up with the custard.

0:40:030:40:06

And then what you can do is just press

0:40:060:40:11

the croissants inside.

0:40:110:40:13

Now, you do this for two reasons, really -

0:40:130:40:15

one, to soak the croissants,

0:40:150:40:18

and the other one,

0:40:180:40:20

to lick your fingers afterwards.

0:40:200:40:22

With the pudding cooking for 25 minutes at 150,

0:40:270:40:30

I can transfer the now-frozen custard into my fancy machine,

0:40:300:40:34

which churns the mixture in a matter of minutes.

0:40:340:40:37

Now it's the difficult bit - the waiting.

0:40:380:40:41

I suppose there is still time to show you a final chefy bit

0:40:430:40:47

for this pud. Well, we have come this far, so why not?

0:40:470:40:50

The word "foam" kind of puts me off whenever I go to a restaurant,

0:40:500:40:53

but it is actually really good with this.

0:40:530:40:55

And you can actually make it at home really simply.

0:40:550:40:59

I do this quite a lot. All it is, really, is just milk warmed up.

0:40:590:41:03

So you think of a cappuccino, really, with that foam on the top.

0:41:030:41:07

This really is just a step further from that.

0:41:070:41:10

The flavourings that we can put in - you can put mint, kaffir lime,

0:41:100:41:13

lemongrass into the milk -

0:41:130:41:15

but that is going to create our flavour for our foam.

0:41:150:41:17

I'm actually going to use some of this, which is

0:41:170:41:20

basically just honeycomb.

0:41:200:41:22

All you need to do is bring the milk and the honeycomb to the boil,

0:41:220:41:25

then add something I bought from a health food shop.

0:41:250:41:28

Yes, you did hear me right.

0:41:280:41:30

This is supposed to cook down the fat in food.

0:41:300:41:32

It is called lecithin.

0:41:320:41:34

Basically, what we do is we just add a little bit of this

0:41:340:41:37

to this mixture.

0:41:370:41:39

What this will do is actually break down the fat,

0:41:390:41:41

but most importantly,

0:41:410:41:42

it will actually hold the foam

0:41:420:41:44

and create a nice, little, light foam.

0:41:440:41:46

With this ingredient and the honeycomb dissolved into the liquid,

0:41:460:41:49

it is time for a quick spin with the stick blender to get that

0:41:490:41:52

all-important coffee-shop cappuccino texture.

0:41:520:41:55

I'm almost ready to dive into my all time favourite pud.

0:41:550:42:00

After a very, very generous coating of icing sugar

0:42:000:42:03

and a blast with my blowtorch, my take on bread and butter pudding

0:42:030:42:07

with whisky ice cream and honeycomb foam is ready to take its bow.

0:42:070:42:12

For me, really, this is everything that I've got in my store cupboard.

0:42:140:42:17

I've always got white chocolate, always got vanilla.

0:42:170:42:19

I've always got a bit of butter.

0:42:190:42:22

That is a serious, serious pudding.

0:42:220:42:25

A little bit of foam on the top.

0:42:250:42:27

Just to finish it off.

0:42:280:42:31

Let's face it, you couldn't live on that every day, could you?

0:42:310:42:34

Well, every two days, possibly.

0:42:360:42:39

The proof of this pudding is in the crew tasting.

0:42:400:42:43

I think this really hits the high notes.

0:42:430:42:46

It just goes to show,

0:42:470:42:48

by stocking up your shelves with the right ingredients

0:42:480:42:52

for sweet and savoury dishes,

0:42:520:42:54

you can make fantastic meals for any occasion.

0:42:540:42:57

If you'd like to know more about how to cook any of the recipes

0:42:570:43:00

featured on today's show,

0:43:000:43:01

you can get all of them on our website at...

0:43:010:43:04

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