Dressed to Impress James Martin: Home Comforts


Dressed to Impress

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Sometimes there is no place like home and few things are more

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comforting and delicious than real home cooking.

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Living in this beautiful country with great produce

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right on our doorstep, we really are spoilt for choice.

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So in this series I'm inviting you into my kitchen to share with you

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some of my tasty home-cooked treats.

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The dishes I turn to,

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whether entertaining friends and family

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or just relaxing on my own.

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For me, cooking at home usually means

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making whatever I fancy eating.

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But sometimes I have got guests coming over

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and I need to make food that goes all out to entertain.

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Today I'm going to show you some dishes that I do at home when I'm feeling a bit flash.

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Dishes that will really impress your family and friends.

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I'm going to show you some cheffy techniques

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that wouldn't look out of place in a top restaurant.

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In your kitchen, you can create pure extravagance on a plate.

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Sophisticated main courses with real panache.

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Or mind-blowing desserts.

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We'll be exploring how 18th century cooks

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took showing of to a new level

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and meeting food producers who go the extra mile

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to make world-class ingredients.

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My great-grandfather used to smoke salmon. My grandfather smoked salmon.

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The first taste of that, you will never forget it.

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But first, I'm going to give you a little taster of how you can

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make something simple for your guests that they'll never forget

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with my Madeleines in a spiced cinnamon caramel.

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They're light and fluffy and you can make them in no time at all.

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Now, one thing I always find boring at dinner parties is petits fours

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because you get the same old stuff coming out.

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This dish, sort of, transforms petits fours

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and give them a new lease of life really.

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To start this canny little classic,

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first melt 225g of butter in a pan,

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weigh out 250g of caster sugar

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and 250g of plain flour into a bowl.

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Next, scrape the seeds from one vanilla pod into the sugar,

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keeping the pod aside for later.

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And then some honey because, in a lot of Madeleines over in France,

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honey is the main flavour.

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We need a couple of tablespoons of honey.

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I'm going to use good old Yorkshire honey. My mother brings this town.

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And then take three eggs.

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The recipe doesn't change, whatever flavouring you put in.

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You can put cinnamon, ginger, all manner of different flavourings in,

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but the recipe should stay exactly the same.

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All we are doing with this is melting.

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You don't want to be boiling it, otherwise it's going to cook the flour.

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So, at this point,

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you can then just basically pour this into the mixture.

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And a batch like this will make plenty of Madeleines.

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The great thing about these, they keep really well.

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Not that they are going to hang around in your kitchen for too long

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because they taste pretty good.

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And there you have it, your Madeleine mixture.

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You can see the texture of it. It's not a biscuit, it's not a cake.

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Because of the butter in there

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it actually looks quite waxy when you actually see the recipe.

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As you spoon the mixture into the moulds,

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be careful not to overfill them

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as they will rise while they're in the oven.

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Set the oven for these at about 325 degrees Fahrenheit.

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That's about 170 degrees centigrade so not too hot an oven.

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And the larger trays cook for about 12 to 15 minutes

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and the smaller ones for about eight or ten minutes.

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What's great with this is, like, a winter caramel

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and to do that you start off by basically caramelising sugar.

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We just put a little bit in the pan.

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And then the flavourings for this, we are going to use some vanilla,

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the leftover pile of vanilla, cinnamon, and then this.

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I actually love this and it is so often underused in desserts.

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Star anise.

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It goes amazing in savoury dishes, curries and all manner of things,

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but in desserts, it's brilliant.

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But first things first,

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now the sugar has turned a lovely golden brown colour,

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I'm adding double cream, which will make it go thick and rich.

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Really this is by eye. When you think it's nice and golden brown,

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that's when you add the cream.

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And then this mixture will actually start to come back into a sauce.

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At this point, I can add my star anise,

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half a cinnamon stick

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and the vanilla pod.

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Then a little butter to give the sauce a bit of a gloss.

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But you've got to keep your eye on it

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and look at the texture of this sauce.

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That's about right to me.

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-HE LAUGHS IN EXCITEMENT

-Look at that!

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And then just finally, we take a combination of sugar,

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just a touch of cinnamon.

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We only want a small amount.

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In with the sugar and mix it all together.

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What you want to do with these while they're still warm...

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and this is really the secret to a Madeleine,

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you've got this lovely, crisp sort of outside edge, which makes it

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sort of a cross between a biscuit and a cake, really.

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And then you roll them in the sugar.

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What you want to do with this - bit like doughnuts, really -

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is roll them while they're still warm,

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that way the sugar will actually stick to them.

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What I like to do is mix and match some of the sizes as well for this.

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You get some greedy gannets who want the bigger one.

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And I think what's great about Madeleines,

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is you've got the crispiness on the outside and the soft centre.

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And it's even better when you serve it with a sauce like this,

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particularly when you serve it warm.

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And you just dunk them in.

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It's like the old-fashioned fondue.

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As good as any petit four you'll ever taste

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and so easy to make at home.

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Baking your petits fours instead of buying them will delight your guests

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and another way to ensure you lay on a top-notch spread,

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is by always sourcing the highest-quality ingredients.

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And luckily for me, I have access to some of the best

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and freshest produce right on my own doorstep in Hampshire.

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For years we were in the dark about the joys of gourmet mushrooms

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but now, thanks to people like Paul Metcalfe, I can buy them

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direct from the farmers' market just down the road.

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And they're guaranteed to add a touch of the exotic to any dinner party.

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They really are amazing and certainly

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I don't eat a lot of the average button mushroom, that's for sure.

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Today, Paul's the third biggest supplier of exotic fungi in the UK.

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Considering he only started the business

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just over three years ago, it shows how quickly it's mushroomed.

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Since I've started, the popularity of the mushrooms has increased tremendously.

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Especially at the farmers' markets - people try them

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and they are always coming back for more.

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We have a whole range of varieties, there is

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shitake that you can see here and we have yellow oysters and we have

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some grey oysters and over in the corner we have some pink oysters.

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Along the way, Paul's learned a great deal about the subject

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and he's keen to shed new light on it for others.

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The freshness really makes a difference, especially with these mushrooms.

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Both in terms of their appearance and in terms of their flavour.

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Interestingly, a lot of the mushrooms in this country -

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a lot of the gourmet mushrooms in this country - are imported

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from Holland and also from further afield, such as China and Korea.

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I get a lot of feedback with regard to imported Chinese mushrooms,

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is that the flavour is good but the texture is very chewy.

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That's because they've been part-dried in order to get here,

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in order to survive the trip.

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Whereas if you take fresh shitake mushrooms,

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there is just such an amazing difference in texture.

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As part of his mission to spread the joy of gourmet mushrooms,

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Paul likes to do tastings so that people can try before they buy.

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I'm hoping that our guests will experience a new

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dimension to the flavours that mushrooms can deliver.

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What we're going to do is we're just going to prep up the mushrooms

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very simply, by taking some of the stems off, tearing them up

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and frying them up with a little bit of butter, oil and some garlic.

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This is a grey oyster and the way we prep it, is to take off the thick

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root at the base and then tear the leaves into strips and fry them.

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The grey oyster is mild and probably the only one of these

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mushrooms that is actually mushroomy.

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This is yellow oyster and this has a lovely, slightly tart flavour

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but the more you cook it, the nuttier it gets.

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So to prep shitake, it's generally best to tear them

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rather than cut them and leave the stem.

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The stem is too woody to eat but it's good for flavouring,

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so if you want to put it in a stock where you can fish it out again afterwards, that's great.

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This is a pink oyster and it has a delicate background of crab,

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almost seafood-like.

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These mushrooms take a bit longer to cook than the button variety,

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so Paul fries them on a high heat for about ten to 15 minutes,

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until they're golden brown.

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Come on in.

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Looks all right, doesn't it? Fantastic, lovely range of colours.

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Beautiful.

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They've just got fantastic flavours from where they've been fried.

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They really complement the bread.

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Really, really nice and the toast and the mushrooms together

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is just a brilliant combination, just for such a simple meal.

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Thanks to the work of people like Paul,

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we have an ever-expanding list of ingredients

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that are grown on our shores, which means you can't get fresher.

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'As delicious as mushrooms on toast is,

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'I've asked Paul over, as I want to cook him

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'something a little bit more decadent with his amazing mushrooms.'

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I don't know what's going to be more spectacular,

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the dish that I'm hopefully trying to cook for you,

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or some of these fantastic mushrooms that you brought along with you.

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'My teriyaki mushroom risotto with red mullet

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'and lime leaf foam is bursting with exotic flavours.

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'It's a cut above what you might expect for home cooking.

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'Perfect for when you need to do a bit of showing off at the table.'

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What have you brought along?

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What I've brought along today, is we have some shitake...

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They're the ones that I'm going to use first cos

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I quite like using the stalks for the stock, these ones.

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That's a great idea, the stems are too woody to eat.

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I tried to grow mushrooms here at home and it's...

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It's kind of a hit-and-miss affair.

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You've got it absolutely nailed in terms of what they need.

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What exactly do mushrooms need?

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Commercially, when I grow these as long as you control the light,

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the light cycles and the temperature and the humidity

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-and the amount of CO2 in the air.

-Yeah, yeah.

-They're not fussy, you know, not fussy at all.

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-That's why I failed miserably.

-Possibly, yeah.

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'Adding the stalks from the shitake mushrooms to 600ml of chicken stock

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'will give the base of this dish a delicate flavour.

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'I'm also sweating down a finely-diced shallot,

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'some sliced garlic in a pan...

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'..along with a couple of handfuls of Arborio rice.'

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Try not to get the pan too hot.

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Just coat the rice, the shallots and the garlic in the butter...

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and then we can throw in just a little bit of white wine.

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The great thing about the dish...

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-There's enough for me and you as well, I presume you want a glass of wine.

-I wouldn't say no.

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See, always a farmer.

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But the secret of this is, basically just slightly reduce this down

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a little bit by not too much,

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just to allow the wine just to reduce off.

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Now, at this point we can add the stock. Generally always warm stock,

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this is where most of the flavour will come from.

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Then you just keep cooking it, just gradually for about 12 minutes.

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-So why mushroom farming for you, then?

-Erm...

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-Why?

-Why? Good question.

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-Do you often ask yourself that? Why?

-Yeah, I often ask myself that

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-when I'm up at 4:30 in the morning picking to take to market.

-But why?

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-Erm, I enjoy the challenges of, sort of, the engineering side of it.

-Yeah.

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-The ability to produce - it's almost like biological engineering, if you like.

-Yeah.

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Erm, the fact that they are so fussy but because they grow so quickly,

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if you get it wrong you get some instant feedback.

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You'll know within a couple of days that you've done something wrong.

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They do look seriously impressive. I mean, just look at that. It's just an amazing...

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-It's an amazing thing, isn't it? It's just nature...

-Absolutely beautiful.

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Nature is amazing, isn't it, really? When you look at it like that.

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So with these, I'm basically just going to snip these off.

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'They might look amazing, but they taste even better.

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'Along with these yellow oyster mushrooms,

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'I'll be using shitake, and grey oysters.'

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How long do these take then?

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Because normally with this, I put them in for a couple of minutes.

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I recommend frying them off first until they've got a little bit

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-of colour on them, over a high heat with a bit of butter and oil.

-Right.

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I'll fry them off first then, why not?

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So what's your personal favourite to eat?

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Personally, I really like the shitake.

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It's great roasted, it has a lovely smokey flavour.

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Goes well with cabbage, that's one of my favourites. Cabbage, soy sauce and ginger.

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You need to write a recipe book at this rate.

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'The next part of this recipe is a lime leaf foam dressing

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'that any restaurant would be proud of.

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'Better still, it's easy to make.'

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You just put milk in the pan

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and then we're going to use some kaffir lime.

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-I'm sure you've tasted these before, they're fantastic.

-Fantastic.

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-Used a lot in Thai.

-Yeah, a lot of Thai cooking.

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You throw that in there and just allow that to infuse

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but we're going to put this stuff in.

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This is lecithin, which breaks down the fat.

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It basically holds the foam

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and you can buy this from health food stores.

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Because you're here, I though I've got to out do you with this,

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make mine look a bit fancy, really.

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So you just put that in and gradually warm it through, it takes about two or three minutes.

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Then we're going to blitz it, really, so as to create this foam.

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Now, this risotto's nearly finished now, so in we go with our mushrooms.

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They can go straight in.

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And you start to bring this together. Now at this point,

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if you're doing a dinner party, you can take this off the heat,

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cool this down, pop these in the fridge and then re-heat it.

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It's brilliant if you re-heat it like that

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but what we're going to do is continue to cook this

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and at the same time, quickly...

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cook our red mullet.

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And for that, I'm just going to use a little bit of oil...

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..in the pan and then we grab our red mullet.

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Now, it's important with this, you use a non-stick pan.

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In there, hold the fish down because it will actually start to

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curl up if you're not careful, so just keep it pressed for a second.

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Little bit of black pepper, pinch of salt.

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And then once you've got a nice little bit of colour, turn it over

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and you've got this beautiful flesh which I love with red mullet.

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I just think it's fantastic.

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And what we do is just lift that off,

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leave that to rest for a little bit.

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Meanwhile, we can finish off our risotto.

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Now, this is quite unusual this, because it uses teriyaki sauce.

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Now, this stuff is sweet and you just pop that,

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almost like it's a seasoning, into the risotto.

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And because of that, there's no need to add any salt or pepper to it.

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'More traditionally, I'm also adding some Parmesan and mascarpone cheese.'

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-That looks pretty good, doesn't it?

-That looks great.

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I'm trying to keep up with you there, I'm just...

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My eye keeps looking at these things, going,

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"Am I going to make this as nice looking as that...

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"..pile of mushrooms over there?" And then all we do now...

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..is give this a quick blitz.

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'The great thing about this foam, is you can flavour the mix with

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'whatever you like.

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'If this doesn't impress your guests, nothing will.'

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That lecithin will actually hold the bubbles.

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And then all we can do now is pop this on the plate.

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'When you put them together, all those bold flavours

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'complement each other perfectly

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'and I think a little bit of extra care and attention has turned

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'a simple-to-make recipe into something truly special.'

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-Paul...

-Fantastic.

-..fill your boots.

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-Is it worthy?

-Thank you very much.

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Mmmm.

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-Yeah.

-That's pretty good that, isn't it?

-That's fantastic.

-It is pretty good.

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-That teriyaki really comes through.

-Yeah.

-It's sweet, isn't it?

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Now, this is a dish that's going to surprise your guests

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because there's so many unusual flavours in there.

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Great mushrooms, of course,

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but it's that teriyaki that just takes it to another level.

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I think they're really going to enjoy it.

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That is delicious.

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People have experimented with special-occasion food

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like my risotto for centuries.

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And from his home in Cumbria,

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food historian Ivan Day is exploring how cooks in grand country houses

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went above and beyond to please the eye as well as the belly.

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Chefs have always wanted to present their food in a really

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beautiful way. They've dressed it to impress, if you like.

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In the past - if we go back, say to the Victorian period -

0:18:460:18:50

people had large dishes of food in front of them

0:18:500:18:53

and they shared them out, so what the chefs often created on the table

0:18:530:18:57

was a landscape of extraordinary jellies and other dishes.

0:18:570:19:03

And what I want to do, is actually revive something incredibly rare

0:19:030:19:07

and lost, which is something called a macedoine jelly.

0:19:070:19:11

It's a crystal clear jelly and embedded in it,

0:19:110:19:14

is a still life of fruit, encased in...

0:19:140:19:19

a beautifully moulded jelly.

0:19:190:19:21

And these were technically, very, very difficult things to make.

0:19:210:19:26

This jelly dates back to the time before mass-produced gelatine

0:19:260:19:31

and what the top chefs used in their kitchens to make a very clear jelly,

0:19:310:19:36

was this very expensive material, the isinglass.

0:19:360:19:39

The swim bladder of the Caspian sturgeon.

0:19:390:19:43

It's the same fish that caviar comes from.

0:19:430:19:46

The other ingredients - other than the isinglass - in this jelly,

0:19:460:19:51

is a pint of water - which I've got boiling away here -

0:19:510:19:56

the juice of three lemons, four ounces of sugar,

0:19:560:20:01

a pint of a really whitish wine

0:20:010:20:05

and finally, the isinglass itself.

0:20:050:20:10

And there's one other ingredient, which is the most important one.

0:20:120:20:16

It's called maraschino

0:20:160:20:17

and it's distilled from the moresco cherry, the sour or morello cherry.

0:20:170:20:24

And that is really the flavour of the dessert course

0:20:240:20:28

of the Victorian period, they put it in everything.

0:20:280:20:31

So I'm just going to put in a glug of that.

0:20:310:20:33

To get the jelly crystal clear, whisked egg whites

0:20:370:20:40

mixed into the boiling mixture act to bind any discolouring sediment.

0:20:400:20:44

That's now boiled up, so that's ready to go into the jelly bag.

0:20:460:20:53

This jelly bag, helped by the egg,

0:20:530:20:55

filters out any other impurites present.

0:20:550:20:58

Just to be sure that it's clear,

0:21:050:21:07

I've put the jelly through the bag four times.

0:21:070:21:10

To speed up the setting - this was the technique that was used -

0:21:160:21:20

is to push the mould...

0:21:200:21:23

down into some ice.

0:21:230:21:25

So there's my now perfectly clear jelly.

0:21:250:21:30

Now, a hot kitchen like this is hardly the place to set a jelly,

0:21:300:21:34

so I'm going to go and put it in a much cooler room

0:21:340:21:37

and it'll take about an hour.

0:21:370:21:38

If you know what you're doing, this isn't very difficult

0:21:430:21:46

but it's a very ingenious invention, I think.

0:21:460:21:50

Where you have the jelly mould with a liner

0:21:500:21:53

so you can actually get a hollow centre.

0:21:530:21:55

There were quite a lot of very elaborate moulds made in the

0:21:550:21:58

Victorian period, this is one of the simpler ones.

0:21:580:22:01

But what I've got here is some hotish water.

0:22:010:22:05

I pour that in there quite quickly

0:22:050:22:07

and the purpose of this handle is, is so I can pull it out.

0:22:070:22:11

That's come out really easily actually, we've got

0:22:110:22:14

an absolute perfect hollow in there,

0:22:140:22:16

which I can now back-fill with a mixture of fruit

0:22:160:22:20

and jelly to secure it.

0:22:200:22:22

Yeah, that looks rather beautiful already and it hasn't even set yet.

0:22:230:22:27

After an hour in the cool room, Ivan's jelly is set

0:22:320:22:35

and ready to extract from the mould.

0:22:350:22:37

And it literally doesn't need very long.

0:22:370:22:39

The best test is to push it

0:22:390:22:41

and then if I just shake it a bit like this...

0:22:430:22:45

it should release it.

0:22:450:22:47

Make sure it's released all the way round.

0:22:470:22:50

I get incredibly nervous when I have to do that!

0:22:540:22:58

Ah, well, that looks fantastic, doesn't it?

0:23:020:23:04

The Victorian period was one really of what we might consider

0:23:040:23:07

excessive embellishment.

0:23:070:23:09

So I'm going to dress these even more,

0:23:090:23:12

remember this is dressed to impress,

0:23:120:23:14

so I'm going to garnish them with some prepared fruit.

0:23:140:23:18

You get this fantastic optical refraction through the jelly

0:23:200:23:24

and all the colours and the shapes will be exaggerated,

0:23:240:23:27

especially when you move your head around, you get this

0:23:270:23:30

extraordinary optical effect and that's why these were so popular.

0:23:300:23:34

And what you've also got to imagine is having this on a table that is

0:23:340:23:38

illuminated by candlelight,

0:23:380:23:40

lots of wonderful candelabra shedding this sparkling light

0:23:400:23:45

cos it glistens through the jelly and when it's in its correct setting,

0:23:450:23:48

it truly is really dressed to kill, let alone dressed to impress.

0:23:480:23:54

It's like a firework display at the end of the meal.

0:23:560:24:00

And it's a wonderful celebration of food, not of something that's

0:24:000:24:04

just good to eat but something that looks really stunning.

0:24:040:24:08

The idea of making this kind of spectacular event food

0:24:080:24:11

has fallen out of fashion over the years.

0:24:110:24:14

'But I've got a classic recipe from back

0:24:150:24:17

'when people really knew how to dress to impress.'

0:24:170:24:21

I'm going to make an extravagant crown of lamb with duchess potatoes.

0:24:230:24:27

It's a Michelin star quality showstopper

0:24:270:24:30

that you can cook at home.

0:24:300:24:32

I'm going to serve that with a lovely stuffing

0:24:320:24:35

of mushrooms and tarragon.

0:24:350:24:36

'To start the filling, blitz an onion in a blender until it's very

0:24:400:24:44

'finely chopped and then sweat it down in a warm pan with butter.

0:24:440:24:48

'Next, blitz 300g of brown cap and button mushrooms until a fine dice.

0:24:490:24:55

'Add it to the pan and turn up the heat.'

0:24:550:24:57

There's quite a lot of moisture that comes out of mushrooms,

0:24:590:25:03

so don't be tempted to add too much liquid to this,

0:25:030:25:07

particularly butter.

0:25:070:25:09

You're actually sort of dry-frying it, really.

0:25:110:25:13

'Once the moisture is cooked away, put the mix in a bowl...

0:25:160:25:20

'..along with some chopped tarragon...

0:25:210:25:23

'..and 50g of breadcrumbs.'

0:25:260:25:27

And mix this all together.

0:25:320:25:34

And really, the binding agent, you could put egg in here

0:25:340:25:37

but what I'm going to use, is some lamb mince.

0:25:370:25:40

So I think it just basically holds the structure together

0:25:410:25:44

a lot nicer than adding eggs. So...

0:25:440:25:46

chuck in the minced lamb.

0:25:460:25:47

Give this a good mix.

0:25:490:25:51

And at this point, we can season it.

0:25:510:25:53

A decent amount of salt...

0:25:530:25:55

And this is where seasoning's really quite important

0:25:590:26:01

when you're doing stuffing.

0:26:010:26:03

You can't season it afterwards, so you've got to season it properly.

0:26:030:26:07

And then we can just leave this just to one side.

0:26:070:26:10

Meanwhile, we'll compare our lamb.

0:26:100:26:12

Now, to make our crown of lamb, you need two best ends of lamb.

0:26:120:26:16

Now, if I join these together with the spine

0:26:160:26:19

running down the centre, this would be a saddle of lamb and

0:26:190:26:22

when you separate them, obviously you've got your racks of lamb.

0:26:220:26:25

If I cut through these chops, you get your lamb chops.

0:26:250:26:28

Now, what you need to ask for is one that's done French trimmed.

0:26:280:26:32

French trim means that the bones have been cleaned

0:26:320:26:34

and they've removed what they call the chine.

0:26:340:26:36

It's a bone that runs underneath here and if they don't cut that off,

0:26:360:26:40

you'll never be able to cut through the chops

0:26:400:26:43

when it comes to serving it.

0:26:430:26:45

Now, to turn this into a crown of lamb,

0:26:450:26:48

what we need to do is just make little nicks

0:26:480:26:50

in between each joint.

0:26:500:26:53

'I'm doing this so I can shape it more easily,

0:26:560:26:58

'then all I need is to tie some string around the racks,

0:26:580:27:02

'which will form a crown as I tighten the string.

0:27:020:27:05

'Now start adding the stuffing into the centre.'

0:27:060:27:09

But I'm going to serve that with a potato dish that's also

0:27:090:27:12

not really often done very much.

0:27:120:27:15

This is pommes duchesse, as the French call it, or duchess potatoes

0:27:150:27:19

and for that we want some, basically, baked potatoes.

0:27:190:27:23

'For this, I'm using my trusty potato ricer.

0:27:250:27:28

'Scoop out the flesh from the baked spuds

0:27:280:27:31

'and with a good squeeze, it's velvety smooth.'

0:27:310:27:34

There are so many fantastic,

0:27:350:27:38

old-fashioned potato dishes out there...

0:27:380:27:42

that are good enough to put on any menu, really, whether it's

0:27:420:27:45

for a dinner party at home or in a restaurant and this is one of them.

0:27:450:27:48

You'll find this in three-star Michelin restaurants

0:27:480:27:53

and you'll find it's easy to do at home.

0:27:530:27:55

So we've got the mashed potato

0:27:560:27:58

and now all we add is just a little knob of butter...

0:27:580:28:02

'Adding the three egg yolks gives the duchess a richness

0:28:040:28:07

'and sophistication that's a cut above your average potatoes.'

0:28:070:28:11

And you can see the colour of the egg yolks, it just transforms this.

0:28:110:28:16

Now we need to season it.

0:28:160:28:17

Some black pepper...

0:28:180:28:21

Now, this is a dish - like so many dishes that you can do for a dinner party -

0:28:210:28:25

that really you can make these in advance.

0:28:250:28:28

And that's really the downfall I think of a lot of home cooks, really.

0:28:280:28:31

They don't actually know what to make in advance

0:28:310:28:34

and what to leave at the last minute.

0:28:340:28:36

'Then it's all about presentation,

0:28:380:28:40

'so I'm shaping them with a piping bag for some extra finesse.'

0:28:400:28:44

That may appear a little bit fancy.

0:28:450:28:47

It probably is, to be honest.

0:28:470:28:50

And all we need to do now is pop this in the oven.

0:28:520:28:56

But not that one, this one.

0:28:560:28:58

Now, you can cook this conventionally in the oven

0:28:580:29:01

but I'm going to use one of these,

0:29:010:29:02

which is about the same sort of temperature,

0:29:020:29:04

about 200 degrees and this wants to cook for about half an hour.

0:29:040:29:08

Now, I love cooking on this, purely the fact that it gives

0:29:080:29:11

the lamb a brilliant flavour almost like a barbecued flavour

0:29:110:29:14

cos you've got the charcoals underneath.

0:29:140:29:17

So to me, it's the ultimate outdoor oven.

0:29:170:29:19

'After half an hour in my oven-cum-barbecue,

0:29:240:29:26

'the lamb is ready.

0:29:260:29:28

'And with five minutes to brown off, the potatoes don't look bad either.'

0:29:280:29:32

You've got to admit, this is seriously impressive with

0:29:340:29:37

the stuffing in, particularly with those duchess potatoes.

0:29:370:29:41

It's so easy to carve as well, you just take a slice

0:29:410:29:45

and each chop comes off but also you've got some of this great

0:29:450:29:50

stuffing, which still keep it nice and moist cos the lamb has

0:29:500:29:53

surrounded it as well.

0:29:530:29:55

Just when you thought roast dinners couldn't get any better.

0:29:590:30:02

Try this.

0:30:050:30:07

That is delicious.

0:30:080:30:10

'I think we've lost the art of cooking food

0:30:110:30:13

'with a sense of theatre.

0:30:130:30:15

'Why have an ordinary rack of lamb when you can turn it into a crown?

0:30:150:30:19

'And the usual mash, when you could have duchess?'

0:30:190:30:22

It's that extra effort that makes good food great

0:30:250:30:28

and there are small, home producers all over the country making produce

0:30:280:30:32

with that same passion for quality and eye for those little details.

0:30:320:30:37

Like Ole Hansen,

0:30:410:30:43

who has recently revived his Norwegian family's 100-year-old

0:30:430:30:46

history of curing salmon in a very 21st century London smokehouse.

0:30:460:30:52

My great-grandfather used to smoked salmon

0:30:520:30:54

and my grandfather smoked salmon.

0:30:540:30:56

The first taste of that is just, you will never forget it.

0:30:560:30:59

I was in the north of Norway fishing with my father.

0:30:590:31:02

Imagine sitting there watching the midnight sun for the first

0:31:020:31:05

time in your life and you're having this salmon.

0:31:050:31:08

And I've never been able to get salmon like this again.

0:31:080:31:10

And I thought if I could recreate that, I would have something

0:31:100:31:14

not only unique, but something that would please others.

0:31:140:31:17

And that's exactly what he did.

0:31:170:31:20

His salmon is an indulgent taste of his homeland, which soon

0:31:200:31:23

won him awards and has had the best restaurants in Europe placing orders.

0:31:230:31:28

Famous chefs are eating our salmon and we are getting recognised,

0:31:280:31:32

not only from the best chefs in London,

0:31:320:31:34

but also now in Paris, Italy, France, Germany...

0:31:340:31:38

Despite only starting three years ago, Ole is now curing

0:31:380:31:41

160 salmon a day in what must be the UK's smallest urban smokerie.

0:31:410:31:47

Everything that we make is to order, so we don't keep any stock,

0:31:470:31:50

it's made for you.

0:31:500:31:53

So the fish is from the Faroe Islands.

0:31:530:31:55

So what I'm doing now is making small cuts in the skin,

0:31:550:31:58

opening it up for salt penetration.

0:31:580:32:02

And now it's the moment.

0:32:040:32:06

Ta-da!

0:32:060:32:09

Yes! Look at that. Beautiful. I still remember the first time I did this.

0:32:090:32:14

In the north of Norway, fishing with my father.

0:32:150:32:18

I can't believe we had to do that, fillet fish at five years old.

0:32:180:32:22

But it was great.

0:32:220:32:24

This is a man who puts the art into artisan.

0:32:240:32:29

He even uses a unique blend of two different types of salt

0:32:290:32:32

to cure the fish.

0:32:320:32:33

This sort is a mix of vacuum-dried salt and Fleur de Sel de Guerande.

0:32:330:32:39

Now, vacuum-dried salt absorbs moisture from the salmon,

0:32:390:32:43

it's like small sponges, and it also prevents bacterial growth.

0:32:430:32:48

And the Fleur de Sel is the sweetest, it's what gives the salmon the taste.

0:32:480:32:52

After 12 hours, Ole prepares the salmon for hanging up to smoke.

0:32:530:32:57

And of course, even the needle and thread are handmade by craftsmen.

0:32:570:33:02

The salmon will hang and sway in the wind...

0:33:020:33:08

Hook...

0:33:100:33:11

That's perfect.

0:33:110:33:13

It needs to be treated with respect.

0:33:130:33:14

That's part of the taste and part of the quality,

0:33:140:33:16

that you handle it really nicely.

0:33:160:33:18

It's about trying to...

0:33:180:33:23

..be careful with the salmon.

0:33:230:33:26

Ready to go in and join the other ones.

0:33:260:33:30

His dedication to his art extends to importing juniper

0:33:330:33:36

and beechwood from Scandinavia, to get the perfect smoky flavour.

0:33:360:33:40

I am using the same woods as my grandfather was using.

0:33:400:33:44

So this is beechwood. This is the sweetest.

0:33:440:33:48

So what I'm trying to do is bring out the natural sweetness of the salmon.

0:33:480:33:53

It's ground down to particles and that determines the burning speed

0:33:530:33:57

and it determines the colouration.

0:33:570:33:59

The juniper hits you at the very end.

0:33:590:34:01

Ole's family legacy is part and parcel

0:34:010:34:03

of what makes his salmon so special.

0:34:030:34:07

This smoking chamber is my grandfather's.

0:34:070:34:10

It's he who designed it and me,

0:34:100:34:13

I had the happiness of building and reproducing it.

0:34:130:34:17

Ole controls the process of smoking the salmon

0:34:170:34:19

right down to the tiniest detail.

0:34:190:34:23

This is sort of like a wind tunnel,

0:34:230:34:25

because the air is moving in a loop and then I can adjust how much

0:34:250:34:30

smoke leaves the smoking chamber and how much smoke comes into it.

0:34:300:34:33

The beautiful thing here is that the salmon will move in the wind

0:34:330:34:36

together with the smoke.

0:34:360:34:38

Yeah, it's a very simple design, but it's very efficient.

0:34:380:34:41

Even one side of salmon will have a subtle variation in taste

0:34:410:34:44

as salt and smoke are infused in different amounts through the flesh.

0:34:440:34:48

My grandfather believed

0:34:480:34:50

and my great-great-grandfather believed the way that it's cut

0:34:500:34:53

is straight down, because every single layer of the salmon has

0:34:530:34:57

a different taste and I want everyone to have all the different flavours.

0:34:570:35:01

Mmm! That's my favourite part.

0:35:060:35:08

The taste just lasts and lasts and lasts.

0:35:080:35:14

If I could eat my salmon every day, I would.

0:35:140:35:18

And I do, because I have the pleasure of being a salmon smoker

0:35:180:35:21

so I can indulge.

0:35:210:35:22

Ole's lovingly-crafted smoked salmon would be the perfect

0:35:300:35:33

starter to any dinner party.

0:35:330:35:35

But my delicious lemon tart makes the ultimate finale.

0:35:370:35:41

This deliciously light and fruity dessert is pure indulgence.

0:35:410:35:46

It's really the chefs' dessert.

0:35:460:35:48

It's a dessert that shows a little bit of skill in terms

0:35:480:35:51

of the pastry but, above all else,

0:35:510:35:53

it's a dessert that tastes fantastic.

0:35:530:35:55

I'm going to show you that now.

0:35:550:35:57

First thing we are going to do is our pastry.

0:35:570:35:59

So I'm going to start off with 250g of flour.

0:35:590:36:03

Then in go two tablespoons of icing sugar.

0:36:070:36:09

100g of butter.

0:36:110:36:13

And a pinch of salt.

0:36:150:36:17

And then, just like my granny did,

0:36:170:36:19

you basically get your fingers in and rub the butter together.

0:36:190:36:23

What you're doing is creating a nice short pastry which is

0:36:230:36:26

perfect for lemon tart.

0:36:260:36:28

The mixture needs to stay really cold.

0:36:280:36:31

If the fat and the butter get too warm in my hands, it will

0:36:310:36:35

absorb more flour, leaving me with tough and heavy pastry.

0:36:350:36:38

We've almost done it there.

0:36:400:36:41

You can see you get this lovely and fine texture.

0:36:410:36:45

And then we can just add a medium egg.

0:36:480:36:51

This is going to bring that entire mix together.

0:36:510:36:54

It will actually quite quickly form pastry.

0:36:550:36:58

We've got to now give it a quick knead to bring it all together,

0:37:020:37:05

and there you have...

0:37:050:37:07

..pastry just like Granny used to make.

0:37:090:37:11

Let the pastry rest in the fridge for a few minutes.

0:37:130:37:16

And it's time to get on with the filling.

0:37:180:37:20

Last thing you want at any dinner party is your centrepiece dessert

0:37:210:37:24

running out, so this is a big one.

0:37:240:37:27

To start the filling I need 14 medium-sized eggs.

0:37:280:37:32

You could've course halve the recipe for a smaller batch.

0:37:330:37:37

But really, for me,

0:37:370:37:38

the key to a lemon tart is actually the depth of the filling.

0:37:380:37:42

Too many lemon tarts when you have them in restaurants, and also

0:37:420:37:45

the ones that you buy, have got this horrible thin layer of lemon.

0:37:450:37:50

It almost tastes like a curd. This is lovely and light.

0:37:500:37:53

Into the eggs go 500g of caster sugar.

0:37:530:37:56

And 700mls of double cream.

0:37:590:38:02

Now we can get our lemon zest and our lemon juice.

0:38:030:38:07

To give this epic dessert its lemony kick,

0:38:070:38:10

I'm going to need quite a few lemons.

0:38:100:38:13

Ten, to be precise, zest and juice.

0:38:130:38:15

These are large lemons as well.

0:38:150:38:17

When you buy them from the supermarket, the smaller ones,

0:38:170:38:19

you may need to add some more.

0:38:190:38:22

With that extra bit of effort, the taste is really going to shine.

0:38:220:38:25

I'm going to leave the mixture to chill in the fridge

0:38:300:38:32

for about an hour, which gives me time to prepare the pastry.

0:38:320:38:37

So a little bit of flour on the board and then roll it out.

0:38:370:38:40

Roll the pastry as thin as you dare and lay it into the tin.

0:38:410:38:45

Basically, just fold and tuck it in.

0:38:490:38:52

Ever so carefully just fold, tuck it in.

0:38:520:38:56

It's like making the most delicate bed you've ever made in your life.

0:38:560:39:00

So once you've pressed it all in,

0:39:000:39:04

and it's nicely lined like that,

0:39:040:39:06

you can see it's all gone round the edge.

0:39:060:39:08

Doesn't matter about the fold, you can basically just press those.

0:39:080:39:12

And then we need to rest it.

0:39:120:39:13

Now, here's a chef's trick - to keep the pastry nice and flat,

0:39:150:39:19

use flour wrapped in ovenproof clingfilm.

0:39:190:39:22

Not only does it have more weight than baking beans,

0:39:220:39:25

it gets right into the corners for a lovely flat and crispy pastry edge.

0:39:250:39:30

I always have a pot of this just to hand.

0:39:300:39:33

Once you cook it, you can pass this through a sieve

0:39:340:39:37

and use it for this again when you need it.

0:39:370:39:40

So what you can do now is pop it straight in the oven,

0:39:410:39:44

bake it at about 380 degrees Fahrenheit, that's about

0:39:440:39:48

170 degrees centigrade, and you need to cook that for about 15 minutes.

0:39:480:39:52

You can't rush perfection.

0:39:520:39:54

The look on your guests' faces

0:39:540:39:56

when you serve this tart makes it worth all the effort.

0:39:560:39:59

Don't worry about these edges.

0:39:590:40:01

We are going to trim that after it's cooked.

0:40:010:40:03

And you can see what happens with this when you do it,

0:40:030:40:07

you get this perfect edge to it.

0:40:070:40:09

And then what I'm going to do now is just egg-wash it.

0:40:120:40:15

What the egg-wash will do is actually

0:40:150:40:17

seal in any little holes that are in there, which is

0:40:170:40:20

particularly good when you've got a liquid filling like a lemon tart.

0:40:200:40:26

Still keep the oven quite high

0:40:260:40:28

and then pop this back in just to seal that egg

0:40:280:40:30

for three to four minutes.

0:40:300:40:32

Now, to get a perfect top to a lemon tart,

0:40:360:40:40

you want to remove this foam from the top.

0:40:400:40:44

So just with a ladle...

0:40:440:40:47

..just get rid of this.

0:40:470:40:49

It's just the air while you've whisked it up, really.

0:40:490:40:52

Now, all these little bits that I'm doing

0:40:520:40:57

really add up to the finished dish.

0:40:570:40:59

It's all that little extra care and attention,

0:40:590:41:01

it's the little things that really do make all the difference.

0:41:010:41:04

The pastry will be perfectly sealed with the egg yolk by now,

0:41:040:41:08

so it's time to get the filling in.

0:41:080:41:09

And carefully filling the tart while it's in the oven will

0:41:090:41:12

save you slopping it all over the kitchen floor.

0:41:120:41:15

And now what you want to do is reduce

0:41:150:41:17

the temperature down to 280, 300 degrees Fahrenheit,

0:41:170:41:20

about 140 degrees centigrade,

0:41:200:41:22

and cook this for about an hour until it's just set.

0:41:220:41:25

Once it's cooked, trim the edges of the pastry.

0:41:280:41:32

The whole point about this dessert is the care

0:41:320:41:34

and attention you put in.

0:41:340:41:36

You put more effort just making this than you do in most desserts

0:41:360:41:40

that I know.

0:41:400:41:41

Trust me, I've been a pastry chef for a long time,

0:41:410:41:43

but it is actually worth it in the end.

0:41:430:41:47

Sprinkle a bit of icing sugar on top and caramelise it in style.

0:41:500:41:54

Probably best to do this before you've had too many glasses of wine!

0:41:540:41:59

A dollop of creme fraiche and my dinner party show-stopper is ready.

0:42:050:42:09

A good-quality lemon tart is the best dessert you'll ever taste.

0:42:160:42:21

It's sharp...

0:42:220:42:24

..it's creamy and, if you make it this good,

0:42:240:42:26

I'll be round for dinner.

0:42:260:42:28

The crew don't really need much encouragement to get stuck in,

0:42:300:42:34

but when the food is as good as this, you can't blame them.

0:42:340:42:37

Making food to delight and entertain your friends is simple,

0:42:400:42:44

and you don't have to be a fully-trained chef to pull it off.

0:42:440:42:48

It's all about showing your guests that you care by paying attention

0:42:480:42:51

to the little things, to make them

0:42:510:42:53

classy dishes which are as stylish as they are delicious.

0:42:530:42:57

And that's guaranteed to impress.

0:42:570:42:59

If you'd like to know more about how to cook any of the recipes

0:43:010:43:04

featured on today's show, you can get all of them on our website:

0:43:040:43:07

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