Home Cooking in a Hurry James Martin: Home Comforts


Home Cooking in a Hurry

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Sometimes there is no place like home.

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Few things are more comforting and delicious than real home cooking.

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Living in this beautiful country, with great produce

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right on our doorstep, we really are spoilt for choice.

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So in this series, I am inviting you into my kitchen to share with you

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some of my tasty home-cooked treats.

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The dishes I turn to, whether entertaining friends and family

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or just relaxing on my own.

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Home for me is the Hampshire countryside.

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Here, and growing up in Yorkshire, I've been surrounded by great food.

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I love the slow pace of life in the country,

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but sometimes it's fast, no-fuss food that we crave.

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I've got two passions in my life - food and fast cars.

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But fast food doesn't mean to say

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that you have to reach for the microwave.

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You can easily cook fantastic, healthy, nutritious food

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very quickly.

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In no time at all, you can make everything,

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from delicious lunches that beat a sandwich any day...

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It doesn't get any better than that. It's simple, it's quick.

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It's my kind of food, really.

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..to dinner party delights

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you can assemble in minutes.

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We'll be meeting the home cooks who have made thriving businesses

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out of the award-winning recipes

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they're producing from their own kitchens.

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You practise charcuterie, you never perfect it.

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But that is part of the joy of it.

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Learning how gadgetry that brings quick, top-drawer cooking

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into your kitchen isn't a new thing.

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I'll be rustling up a speedy snack for local farmer and neighbour,

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Jody Scheckter, using his home-made mozzarella.

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Now home cooking in a hurry doesn't have to mean

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that you reach for packet food.

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You can create stuff that's really quick and simple.

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Chicken is a perfect opportunity to use that as a base for this.

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I'm going to cook my favourite quick chicken recipe.

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Tender escalopes with a crunch coating of Parmesan, lemon,

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nuts and thyme.

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I'm going to use the chicken breast here.

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First thing we're going to do is just bat these out

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so they're nice and thin.

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You can do that in between two pieces of greaseproof paper

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or a bit of clingfilm, just with an old rolling pin.

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Take the chicken breast, take the skin off, really, for these.

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It's easier.

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Bat these out.

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You're not doing this to tenderise it,

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we're doing this to speed up the cooking time.

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Nice and carefully.

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So we've got two nice, thin pieces of chicken breast.

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For my crunchy coating, I'm using hazelnuts

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and Parmesan in my breadcrumb mix.

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But the joy of cooking at home

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is that you can use whatever's left over in your cupboards.

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You might have almonds to hand rather than hazelnuts,

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or a chunk of Cheddar instead of Parmesan. It really is up to you.

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I'm also grating in some lemon zest.

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This is a dish that I cook quite a lot at home,

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but everybody loves chicken and breadcrumbs, don't they?

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When I was doing Strictly, I remember getting through

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to the semifinal time, and you were becoming so thin and anaemic,

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you were starving.

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So when you went through on a Saturday night,

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the driver used to take me home via a very famous chicken outlet.

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I used to have a bucket.

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There was nothing better than that chicken and breadcrumb mixture.

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But, to be honest, this tastes a little bit different,

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a bit nicer as well.

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Just give it a quick blitz.

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Don't want to be too fine.

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That's enough.

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Then I'm going to use these little panko crumbs.

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These are little Japanese crumbs.

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Normally you can make your own breadcrumbs, which is easy,

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you just blitz the bread. But it's quite damp.

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Because of that, you don't get them really nice and crisp

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when you cook the chicken.

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This, you can get from the supermarkets nowadays.

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What they do is they dry it first of all, shave it,

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and you end up with these really sharp crumb.

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So when you pan-fry it or deep-fry it,

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they really crisp up fantastically well.

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Little bit of those in there as well.

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Touch of fresh thyme.

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This is where it doesn't have to be fresh thyme,

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it could be a little bit of dried thyme, a bit of rosemary.

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This is the key to this, really.

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It's everything that you like, use that as the basis of the crumb.

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Quick blitz.

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That's it.

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No more than that because you want all those jaggedy bits of bread.

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So we're going to do what we call pane,

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which is to flour, egg and breadcrumb.

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Pane is a very simple method that is about making a crunchy coating

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that doesn't fall off the chicken when you fry it.

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All you need is a couple of beaten eggs,

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some seasoned flour

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and breadcrumbs.

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First, dip the chicken into the flour and pat off any excess.

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It's a good idea if you do the other chicken first,

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otherwise you end up with more flour, egg and breadcrumb

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on your fingers than you do on your chicken.

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Then, into the egg. And finally into the breadcrumbs.

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Make sure you've got plenty of that crumb on.

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You can see it uses quite a lot of the crumb as well.

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Make sure you make plenty of it.

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You've got a pan on here. Get it nice and hot.

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People are always shocked about the amount of butter

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that I use on TV programmes.

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You're going to be shocked even more,

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because there's about half a block of butter going in here.

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But the definition of pan-fried or sauteed

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is to half immerse in oil or fat.

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So that's what I'm doing.

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It's also probably the reason why

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I didn't get through to the final on Strictly, to be honest.

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The good thing about having this much butter in it,

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it actually tells you when the chicken is ready.

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Sounds weird, but it really does.

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If the butter starts to change colour, that's the time

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when you turn it over.

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So we just gradually cook this.

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Only for about, sort of, I suppose, five minutes like that.

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Don't be tempted to get this damn thing.

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Everybody gets one of these and starts prodding it

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and flipping it over and touching it.

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Leave it.

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There was a great guy who used to help out around the house

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when I was a young nipper. He used to stand there and watch me cook.

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He said, "Cooking's very simple, lad.

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"You treat it like your wife."

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I was only six.

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He said, "You leave it alone. It'll be perfectly all right."

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Same thing with this piece of chicken, you see? There.

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Now we turn it over.

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Mm!

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See, in theory it's just a massive chicken nugget.

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But everybody likes chicken nuggets.

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The good thing about this - we keep the butter as the sauce, you see?

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Just as a double whammy, we take this...

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..put this over the top.

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You've got lemon in there and you've got...

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That's a fruit so it's part of your five a day.

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What more do you want?

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That's it. Just leave that to one side now.

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Probably serve this with a little bit of lettuce.

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Might be a bit OTT serving this with chips.

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Then...

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..we've got our...

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..big nugget - crispy, delicious. but,

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and it's a big but, this is the sauce.

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Don't go reach for a vinaigrette.

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This is the best bit.

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The butter that you've got on there over the top.

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Of course, to keep all you health-conscious lot

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who are watching this happy,

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wedge of lemon.

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See?

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It doesn't get any better than that.

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It's simple, it's quick.

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We can finish this off with a little bit of cheese, if you want,

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over the top.

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Parmesan, hazelnut and lemon crusted chicken.

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It's my kind of food, really.

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All of that flavour is mine in just 12 minutes.

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It's not in a bucket.

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But it's delicious, is that.

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The best way to keep food quick and simple

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is to use quality ingredients.

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Even better if you don't have to go far to find them.

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Here in Hampshire, I'm constantly amazed by the fresh, award-winning

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meat, veg and fruit, all available within a stone's throw of my home.

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The sedate Hampshire countryside

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isn't the place for anyone in a hurry.

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But just down the road from me

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is an organic farmer with a need for speed.

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MUSIC: "The Chain" by Fleetwood Mac

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Jody Scheckter was a Formula 1 World Champion in the '70s,

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but these days he's better known for raising rare breeds of livestock

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than raising hell on the racetrack.

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I've always been a foodie.

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I've always done a lot of exercise and been keen on health.

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So I said, "OK, I'm going to produce the best-tasting,

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"healthiest food for myself and my family."

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But it's not just his family.

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The public are also benefiting from his award-winning mozzarella,

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made not from his cows...

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MUSIC: "Buffalo Soldier" by Bob Marley & The Wailers

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..but from his massive herd of water buffalo.

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We have about 2,500 buffalo.

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I like buffalo because they produce half the milk,

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but the milk has got twice as much of nearly everything in.

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So it's suited my theory of producing the best-tasting, healthiest food.

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It started off in Italy. I remember bringing back mozzarella to my wife.

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The first day she didn't like it at all.

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It was from one of the best mozzarella places.

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By the third day she liked it,

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because she hadn't been used to eating very fresh mozzarella.

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So that was the first lesson that you learned, but you learn all the time.

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Then we started to make it,

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and actually made it quite nicely at the beginning.

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But then it's a refinement and a refinement and a refinement.

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It's all these little things that you're trying.

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I would say that the most important thing is what they eat.

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We have 31 herbs, cloves and grasses in all our grasses. So I believe...

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Certainly we felt that, in our meat, that's made a difference.

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I think in the milk as well.

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Buffalo milk makes for thicker and creamier cheese,

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called buffalo de mozzarella.

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Italians get through 30,000 tonnes of the stuff a year.

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In Italy, they don't use cows much.

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Maybe for pizzas and things like that, and cooking.

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It's got to be buffalo mozzarella.

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Unlike other cheeses that need time to mature,

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producing mozzarella is, as befits its maker, fast and furious.

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So it starts there in your quality of your milk.

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Then it goes through the whole process -

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trying to keep it very fresh, get it in that day. Start making it.

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We'll get the milk from here from the dairy.

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It'll be in there at eight o'clock in the morning.

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It'll be shipped out at four o'clock in the afternoon.

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That's how fresh it is.

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Margarita is chief cheese maker here.

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She knows that this is a specialist product

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which requires close, loving attention.

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Buffalo is a very different milk from any other milk.

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It's very unpredictable. It changes from day to day.

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I'm very closely connected to the farm, so I know exactly what

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they're eating on the day, how they're doing it.

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If they're in, if they're out,

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if they've got a new cut of silage or an old cut of silage.

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So the milk that comes in, we look at, we smell,

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we taste and we analyse it.

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The quality of a mozzarella is a direct relationship to that.

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First the curd is separated from the whey.

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When it reaches the correct pH level,

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it's time for a pit stop to see if it's ready to be stretched.

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With mozzarella, texture is everything.

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It's a very hands-on cheese.

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Once Margarita is happy with the texture,

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it goes onto the machine

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for stretching and melting at 85 degrees,

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but that doesn't mean she can sit back and relax.

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If you cook it too much, it will burn

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and the outer, it will get really tough and stringy.

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If it's perfect, you've got this beautiful ball

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that is soft on the inside, with a little bit of a shiny layer.

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If you open it, the milk oozes out. That's what we're looking for.

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Beautiful, no?

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Then we're on to the home straight.

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The cheese goes into the mould, gets cooled in salt water,

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and it's reached the finishing line.

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But is it a winner?

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So here's the cooled brined product.

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If you see, it's got this beautiful lovely shiny skin.

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Then when you tear it open...

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..you've got that beautiful mozzarella texture.

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It's full of fresh milk still.

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This is a perfect, fresh, lovely mozzarella to be proud of, really.

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Mm!

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And they should be proud.

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This is the genuine article - as fresh as any Italian could dream of.

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In Italy, that's how they love to eat it. Right fresh there.

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After three days,

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then they'll start putting tomato and basil and oil and things like that.

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But at the beginning, they just eat it.

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They say it's got to run down your face if it's good mozzarella.

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I'm a passionate motor sport fan. I've known Jody for years.

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So fasten your seat belts as I show him

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how to make a super-quick light lunch.

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With his mozzarella in pole position.

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It's all about the cheese, with one of my favourite go-to recipes.

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Parma ham wrapped mozzarella with plum chutney.

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I know I've got my work cut out cos I know you only like it

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with olive oil, don't you?

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Yeah, olive oil or a little bit of tomato and fresh basil.

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I think that's the way.

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The most wonderful way of eating mozzarella.

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So what comparisons are there between Formula 1 and farming?

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Is there any?

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When you're young, you can race. When you're old, you can farm.

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That's about it, is it, really?

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Yeah, no. Everything takes dedication and passion.

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If you're going to do it well, it takes those things,

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whatever you're doing in life, I think.

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Why buffalo and why Hampshire?

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It's an unusual combination.

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I went to see a farm that had buffalo on it.

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Came, one thing led to an other.

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Then, the obvious thing was buffalo mozzarella

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because that's the most famous thing from buffalo milk.

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Did our research. I had a lot of contacts in Italy.

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Looked at the right machinery, I got the right consultants

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and started to produce buffalo mozzarella.

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Right, we're just going to go through my little chutney here.

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-I know you like your mozzarella just as it is.

-I'm just... Can I?

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Turn away at this point.

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Literally I'm just going to do this with a lovely little simple chutney.

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First of all, you almost caramelise the sugar in a pan.

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By doing this, it speeds up the process of the cooking.

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The fruity flavour perfectly complements the salt of the ham

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and the creaminess of the cheese.

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But Jody's going to take some convincing.

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Into the sugar I'm putting 500g of chopped plums and a diced onion.

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A dash of malt vinegar goes in with one star anise

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and half a teaspoon of cinnamon.

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Five minutes or so later, it'll be ready to go.

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We've got a selection of different mozzarellas here

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that have got the different ages.

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This is opposite to conventional cheese,

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which gets better the older it is, generally, this is the opposite.

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The oldest here is four days old, two days old,

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and I'm assuming this was made yesterday?

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Yesterday.

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You can see already it starts to break down a little bit.

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It was quite interesting when I first brought it out.

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People only liked the very old, cos they didn't understand.

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In Italy, they like to take it right there

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and they like the juices to fall out.

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It's a very different taste, isn't it?

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Yeah, absolutely. Absolutely. I normally like it after about a day.

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But even sometimes when it's really, really good,

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that day is beautiful, beautiful.

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So the middle one's the two days old. Then this one is the youngest.

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Made yesterday, yeah.

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The flavours. You haven't got that feta cheese rubberiness, but it's...

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It's cleaner. It's much cleaner.

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Yeah, fresher taste, I think.

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So that's the chutney. That's done. We'll just leave that to one side.

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It's really quick.

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Get the pan on nice and hot for this one. Then we want some...

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..little bit of Parma ham that I'm going to use for this one.

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But your farm's quite unique.

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Whenever I drive past it, there's always something going on.

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You've got your own abattoir, you've got all manner of different things.

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-Is it hops growing as well?

-Yeah, I've got hops.

0:17:520:17:54

I've got hops they haven't grown for 100 years.

0:17:540:17:58

But often, when you think of farms,

0:17:580:17:59

they're particularly good for one thing - ie a dairy farm.

0:17:590:18:02

What makes that farm so special,

0:18:020:18:05

in terms of the variety of stuff you can produce there.

0:18:050:18:07

Well, I think a mixed farm is more healthy.

0:18:070:18:09

That's the way nature was and that's the way the farms are.

0:18:090:18:12

What about the farm itself? Biodynamic.

0:18:120:18:15

It's literally only a stone's throw away from here.

0:18:150:18:18

It is one of the only farms in the UK that produces that at that level.

0:18:180:18:22

What does that mean, as opposed to organic sort of stuff?

0:18:220:18:25

I look at ourselves as a natural farm. We follow nature.

0:18:250:18:28

That really cures most of the problems

0:18:280:18:31

and gets all of the conservation things, I always say that's free.

0:18:310:18:34

I equate it...

0:18:340:18:35

When I was a young kid, we were brought up on a pig farm.

0:18:350:18:39

When you saw the plough in the field and you saw all the birds

0:18:390:18:41

following it, now you don't see it any more, do you, really?

0:18:410:18:45

They're killing the cycle of nature.

0:18:450:18:46

All of those things are what makes the soils and the foods good.

0:18:460:18:51

We look at everything from the soils through to the grasses, the animals.

0:18:510:18:55

I've got a lab studying the soil with a doctor of microbiology.

0:18:550:18:58

The interesting thing is

0:18:580:18:59

we're working with a lot of the top athletes now.

0:18:590:19:01

-They always used to do supplements.

-Right.

0:19:010:19:04

When I started working with some of the nutritionists,

0:19:060:19:09

they all wanted good, healthy, natural food,

0:19:090:19:11

which was really surprising to me.

0:19:110:19:14

They're going back to what we grew up for thousands and thousands of years.

0:19:140:19:19

But when you were in Formula 1, it wasn't supplements, was it?

0:19:190:19:21

It was a beer after work, wasn't it?

0:19:210:19:23

-No, no, no, no.

-Come on.

0:19:230:19:25

It was the James Hunt era and all that kind of stuff.

0:19:250:19:27

No, I went out with him a couple of times, but, no, no.

0:19:270:19:31

I didn't know what I was doing

0:19:310:19:33

because I didn't eat butter for ten years.

0:19:330:19:35

See, that's... I keep telling everybody, but...

0:19:350:19:37

Must eat butter. Butter's very healthy.

0:19:370:19:40

All of this other stuff that's so processed.

0:19:400:19:42

Right, so we're just going to char-grill

0:19:440:19:45

a little bit of bread with that.

0:19:450:19:47

Very quickly, you just take this. You need a hot pan.

0:19:470:19:50

We're going to pan-fry it.

0:19:500:19:52

Get this ham really crispy on the outside.

0:19:530:19:56

So you just seal it off like that. No salt and pepper, nothing.

0:19:560:20:00

I can see you're turning your nose up at this already.

0:20:000:20:03

Just very quickly panfry.

0:20:030:20:04

-Then some of these. You'll like these.

-What are they?

-Sesame seeds.

0:20:050:20:09

GRUMPILY: Mm, OK.

0:20:090:20:10

JAMES LAUGHS

0:20:100:20:11

-It's a good job I know you, isn't it, really?

-Yeah.

0:20:130:20:17

I'm lost a long time ago. I think I'm just going to eat this.

0:20:170:20:20

When we're behind a wheel, you can teach me.

0:20:200:20:22

When you're in my kitchen, I'm teaching you.

0:20:220:20:24

There you go, right.

0:20:240:20:26

Little bit of the char-grilled bread to go with it.

0:20:260:20:28

It's really quick, all right?

0:20:280:20:30

We just cook this so it doesn't melt the mozzarella at all.

0:20:300:20:33

Then, look, you've got the little bit of chutney.

0:20:330:20:35

-Come on, you can't say that doesn't look good.

-It looks lovely, my lad.

0:20:350:20:38

No, not yet! Not yet.

0:20:380:20:39

Then we just put that on here.

0:20:410:20:42

All right?

0:20:440:20:45

Then olive oil...

0:20:500:20:52

Just pour that over the top.

0:20:520:20:54

Happy with that?

0:20:550:20:57

-I'll tell you when I try it.

-Come on, it's not that bad?

0:20:570:20:59

You've got to try this.

0:20:590:21:00

OK.

0:21:010:21:03

There you go.

0:21:030:21:04

Knives and forks.

0:21:040:21:05

Tell me what you think.

0:21:050:21:07

-So I put a little bit of that on there?

-Yeah, I just made that bit.

0:21:070:21:09

That's supposed to go with it.

0:21:090:21:11

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

0:21:110:21:12

It complements. It doesn't improve, it complements.

0:21:120:21:15

What?

0:21:220:21:23

What's wrong with it?

0:21:250:21:26

You try it.

0:21:260:21:27

It's delicious.

0:21:330:21:35

I suppose, from my point of view,

0:21:350:21:36

as you know, I don't like to put anything with that.

0:21:360:21:39

This becomes a completely different dish, doesn't it?

0:21:390:21:41

HE LAUGHS

0:21:410:21:42

Jody's a bit of a purist when it comes to his mozzarella,

0:21:460:21:48

but take my word for it -

0:21:480:21:50

if you want a flavoursome light lunch in a hurry,

0:21:500:21:52

they don't come any faster or tastier than this.

0:21:520:21:56

But there's nothing new about wanting to eat something delicious

0:21:570:22:01

when you don't really have time.

0:22:010:22:03

Many of us think quick cooking is a modern invention.

0:22:030:22:07

But as food historian Ivan Day knows,

0:22:070:22:09

speedy food has been around for centuries.

0:22:090:22:11

We lead such busy lives nowadays.

0:22:150:22:18

We're always eating on the hoof, eating fast food.

0:22:180:22:20

We can easily assume that our ancestors

0:22:200:22:23

didn't have these fast foods,

0:22:230:22:26

but, actually, they have been around for a very, very long time.

0:22:260:22:31

Open up any cookery book, this one is from about 250 years ago,

0:22:310:22:35

and you will find food which is made in a hurry.

0:22:350:22:39

This is a recipe for hasty pudding,

0:22:390:22:43

or pudding in haste, which was actually simply

0:22:430:22:46

a form of porridge, but it could be made in about 30 seconds.

0:22:460:22:49

Just to show you how fast our ancestors could make some dishes,

0:22:510:22:55

I'm going to make you a Victorian ice cream.

0:22:550:22:59

Not the sort of dish you would think would be made in a hurry,

0:22:590:23:02

but there's an extraordinary lady

0:23:020:23:05

back in the 19th century who was called Mrs Agnes Marshall.

0:23:050:23:08

She used to run cookery lessons in central London.

0:23:080:23:12

But the thing that she was the most famous for

0:23:130:23:17

was an extraordinary invention,

0:23:170:23:19

which she invented in 1885,

0:23:190:23:22

which was an ice cream freezer -

0:23:220:23:25

a sort of ice cream machine.

0:23:250:23:27

She claimed that a pint could be frozen in three minutes.

0:23:270:23:32

Wow, that is quite a claim, Mrs Marshall.

0:23:320:23:35

We know ice cream first appeared in England in the 1660s,

0:23:380:23:42

but it wasn't until Italian immigrants started

0:23:420:23:45

selling it on the streets in the 1850s that it became commonplace.

0:23:450:23:49

But it was when people started to make it at home

0:23:490:23:52

that culinary entrepreneur Mrs Marshall had a market.

0:23:520:23:55

What I've got here is the bottom half of Mrs Marshall's ice cream freezer.

0:23:550:24:03

The first thing I've got to do is to charge it,

0:24:030:24:07

which is the term she uses, with some ice.

0:24:070:24:10

Ice will not freeze ice cream.

0:24:100:24:13

They've known about this for at least 300 years.

0:24:130:24:16

So they discovered that if you add salt to ice,

0:24:160:24:19

it has the most dramatic refrigerant effect,

0:24:190:24:23

and will reduce the temperature of anything

0:24:230:24:26

that comes into contact with the mixture, down to about -12.

0:24:260:24:30

There was a way of making ice, which we've forgotten about,

0:24:310:24:35

where you made, for instance, a preserve

0:24:350:24:38

like some jam, or particularly a jelly from fruit.

0:24:380:24:43

This is my quince preserve.

0:24:430:24:46

If you add some of that, which has already got a lot of sugar in it,

0:24:460:24:49

to some cream and put it in a freezing pot,

0:24:490:24:52

it'll make an instant ice cream,

0:24:520:24:53

which will have a lovely quince flavour.

0:24:530:24:55

So let's see how Mrs Marshall's ice cream freezer really did perform.

0:24:550:24:59

There.

0:25:000:25:02

OK. Just a few fluid ounces. Then I'm going to turn that round.

0:25:020:25:07

Dubbed the Queen of Ices,

0:25:090:25:10

Mrs Marshall was the celebrity cook of her day.

0:25:100:25:13

She ran a cookery school, had a range of nifty kitchen gadgets

0:25:130:25:17

and wrote four recipe books.

0:25:170:25:19

Just begin to feel it stiffening up now.

0:25:210:25:24

Mrs Marshall has given us a nice little peep hole here

0:25:240:25:28

which we can look through to check on the state of the ice cream.

0:25:280:25:31

It is still a little bit liquid, Mrs Marshall,

0:25:310:25:34

so I think your three minutes was a little bit of an exaggeration.

0:25:340:25:39

But I think your heart was in the right place.

0:25:390:25:41

I mean, it is taking longer than three minutes,

0:25:440:25:46

but it certainly is freezing in less than eight minutes.

0:25:460:25:50

That's a lot quicker

0:25:520:25:53

than a lot of electrical ice cream machines, actually. Right.

0:25:530:25:57

The resistance is telling me that the ice cream is perfectly frozen.

0:25:570:26:03

There we are. Look at that.

0:26:030:26:04

My God.

0:26:090:26:11

The quince is wonderful and an unusual rich flavour. Very fruity.

0:26:110:26:16

Lovely acidic tone there.

0:26:160:26:18

But the thing that's impressive about this is just how light it is.

0:26:180:26:22

It's really, really fluffy.

0:26:220:26:24

Mm!

0:26:260:26:28

There's not an ice crystal in there. It's absolutely superb.

0:26:280:26:31

Well, who'd have thought it? Ice cream in minutes.

0:26:310:26:34

Well done, Mrs Marshall.

0:26:340:26:36

Well, I can't say I'm going to create something as quick

0:26:390:26:41

as Mrs Marshall's ice cream,

0:26:410:26:43

but what I am going to do is go to New York

0:26:430:26:45

for my inspiration for this one.

0:26:450:26:46

This is an icebox cake. I think it's fantastic.

0:26:460:26:49

The first time I saw it, I fell in love with it.

0:26:490:26:51

I've been doing it ever since. It's brilliant.

0:26:510:26:53

Ice box, meaning the refrigerator.

0:26:530:26:56

It's an amazing dessert.

0:26:570:26:59

Just a few minutes of speedy preparation gives you

0:26:590:27:01

something truly indulgent.

0:27:010:27:03

I can't get enough of it.

0:27:030:27:04

I've made my own biscuits, but this cake was designed

0:27:060:27:09

for New York housewives who bought good quality cookies ready made.

0:27:090:27:14

You could use ginger nuts or chocolate biccies

0:27:140:27:16

straight from the shops.

0:27:160:27:18

From here on in, it gets really indulgent.

0:27:180:27:22

This is an American dessert, so it's to excess, really.

0:27:220:27:25

Just a small amount...

0:27:260:27:27

..of double cream.

0:27:290:27:30

I say small amount,

0:27:310:27:32

but a whole litre of double cream is a lot, even by American standards.

0:27:320:27:37

Then I'm going to flavour that with some of this coffee essence

0:27:380:27:42

that my grandmother used to use.

0:27:420:27:43

I think it's great.

0:27:430:27:45

There you go.

0:27:460:27:47

Then we're just going to whisk this up.

0:27:470:27:49

I actually think it's quite important to half-whip

0:27:530:27:55

the cream first, before you add the main bulk of the flavour.

0:27:550:27:59

Now if you're going to do raspberries or strawberries

0:27:590:28:02

in this mixture, do the puree,

0:28:020:28:03

make a sauce out of it, add it at this point.

0:28:030:28:06

If you add it when the cream is too whipped,

0:28:060:28:08

it'll firm up the cream even more.

0:28:080:28:10

But my flavours are coffee and ginger,

0:28:100:28:13

so I'm adding the syrup from a whole jar of stemmed ginger.

0:28:130:28:17

Then keep mixing.

0:28:170:28:18

Whisk it again until it's firm but not stiff.

0:28:180:28:21

Now what you're after is a texture very similar to that.

0:28:210:28:25

Just ever so slightly whipped.

0:28:250:28:29

So it just holds itself.

0:28:290:28:30

Anything too firm is actually going to curdle

0:28:320:28:35

as you start to layer it up.

0:28:350:28:38

Anything not firm enough, you certainly won't end up with

0:28:380:28:41

a cake when it comes out of the fridge.

0:28:410:28:43

Then what you need to do is sort of layer it up.

0:28:430:28:45

This is where the fun part of this cake comes.

0:28:450:28:48

So get yourself... This is a nine-inch cake board.

0:28:480:28:51

You want a cake turntable for this.

0:28:510:28:53

It gives you a good excuse to buy one.

0:28:530:28:55

Start with a couple of dollops of cream smothered onto the cake board.

0:28:560:29:01

I'm aiming to get it as flat as possible.

0:29:010:29:03

Then layer on the biscuits, starting with one in the middle.

0:29:070:29:11

It actually keeps the cake level

0:29:110:29:14

as you layer this up.

0:29:140:29:15

Keep adding layers of cream and layers of biscuits,

0:29:160:29:19

alternating as you go

0:29:190:29:21

until they're all gone.

0:29:210:29:22

They do like to do things to excess in the States.

0:29:240:29:27

One of the fantastic places I went to visit

0:29:270:29:29

was one of the oldest bake shops in the States.

0:29:290:29:33

Certainly the oldest doughnut shop in the States.

0:29:330:29:35

It's been run by the same family for nearly 80-odd years.

0:29:350:29:40

We took a crew there, we were filming out there,

0:29:420:29:44

we did this amazing shot of all the family stood outside this bake shop.

0:29:440:29:49

There's about five generations of the same family,

0:29:490:29:51

and got them all to smile.

0:29:510:29:53

I swear there was one tooth between all of them.

0:29:530:29:57

It was hilarious.

0:29:570:29:58

If you want to be really fancy,

0:30:030:30:04

when you get to the top layer of cream,

0:30:040:30:06

spin the cake stand

0:30:060:30:08

and smooth it into a spiral pattern using a palette knife.

0:30:080:30:11

That's why I do it.

0:30:130:30:15

The cake needs to refrigerate for a couple of hours.

0:30:150:30:17

Those biscuits turn into a cake with the softness

0:30:180:30:21

and the moisture from the cream.

0:30:210:30:23

If you can resist temptation,

0:30:230:30:24

leaving it overnight will give perfect results, ready to eat

0:30:240:30:28

whenever you need that little bit of luxury in your busy day.

0:30:280:30:31

For the finishing touch,

0:30:310:30:32

I'm adding a few slices of stemmed ginger on top.

0:30:320:30:35

When you lift it out,

0:30:440:30:46

you end up with a great cake that's made out of biscuits.

0:30:460:30:49

So this is the real ethos of home cooking in a hurry,

0:30:490:30:53

isn't it, really?

0:30:530:30:54

Simple, not a lot of work...

0:30:540:30:57

but tastes fantastic.

0:30:570:30:58

These days, we're used to recipes like icebox cake

0:31:000:31:03

arriving from overseas.

0:31:030:31:06

Sometimes we almost expect that foreign food

0:31:060:31:08

automatically means better.

0:31:080:31:09

But there are small, home-grown food producers making ingredients

0:31:100:31:14

which are both international quality and instant eating bliss.

0:31:140:31:18

There are few things quicker to prepare for a meal

0:31:210:31:25

than a plate of delicious cold meats.

0:31:250:31:27

But until now, the art of charcuterie -

0:31:270:31:29

the curing of pork products like salami, sausages and chorizo -

0:31:290:31:34

has been mainly associated with Europe.

0:31:340:31:37

Now, former City high flyer Jackie Kennedy

0:31:380:31:41

is making a name for herself

0:31:410:31:43

by forging a career in this ancient form

0:31:430:31:45

of food craftsmanship from her home in Norfolk.

0:31:450:31:48

It's desperately creative and it's ever-changing.

0:31:510:31:54

You practise charcuterie, you never perfect it.

0:31:540:31:58

But that is part of, for me, part of the joy of it.

0:31:580:32:01

Artisan producers are about being passionate.

0:32:010:32:04

I think you have to be completely driven by normally just one thing.

0:32:040:32:10

My thing was I wanted to make charcuterie.

0:32:100:32:12

Her empire's headquarters are a converted outbuilding

0:32:150:32:19

next to her house.

0:32:190:32:20

Today, she's making her award-winning

0:32:230:32:25

garlic and black pepper salami.

0:32:250:32:27

OK, I think we're done. Can you take that away, Sarah?

0:32:270:32:30

What you put in to charcuterie

0:32:300:32:32

is most definitely what you get out of it.

0:32:320:32:34

If you start off with a free-range pork, you've got a natural,

0:32:340:32:37

fantastic, sweet flavour already.

0:32:370:32:39

So I've just added the herbs and spices.

0:32:430:32:45

That's basically garlic and black pepper.

0:32:450:32:48

Some of the peppercorns are ground, some of them are left whole.

0:32:480:32:51

Then I've added also the curing salt,

0:32:510:32:53

which is again salt and sodium nitrite.

0:32:530:32:57

Salt is fundamental to the curing process.

0:32:570:33:00

It prevents the growth of bacteria and dehydrates the sausage

0:33:000:33:03

to protect it from spoiling.

0:33:030:33:05

The nitrates not only kill bacteria but also improve the colour

0:33:070:33:10

and taste of the meat.

0:33:100:33:12

So again, although this looks like, in the bowl, quite a lot of fat,

0:33:120:33:16

this is only 15% fat that I'm actually adding into the mix.

0:33:160:33:20

I use the very best quality herbs and spices that are available to me.

0:33:260:33:30

So, for example, the paprika I use

0:33:300:33:33

is from the de la Vera region in Spain

0:33:330:33:35

which is well-renowned paprika country, if you like.

0:33:350:33:38

So that all adds into the overall fantastic flavour of it.

0:33:400:33:43

The Mediterranean climate is perfect for curing meat.

0:33:470:33:50

But here in England, in order to achieve consistently good results,

0:33:500:33:54

Jackie's had to invest in some pretty hi-tech equipment.

0:33:540:33:57

Her salamis will be air-dried in a controlled environment

0:33:590:34:02

at a perfect temperature for at least six weeks

0:34:020:34:05

to drive out as much moisture as possible.

0:34:050:34:07

Sarah's going to put them in the machine.

0:34:080:34:10

This is the first curing chamber that I bought,

0:34:100:34:14

which meant I could double my capacity.

0:34:140:34:17

Then I moved on and have recently had this one built,

0:34:170:34:22

so that I can put in around about three-quarters of a tonne at a time.

0:34:220:34:26

They actually lose around 35% of their original weight

0:34:290:34:32

during the curing time.

0:34:320:34:34

As she puts them in, she's making sure that they don't touch -

0:34:340:34:38

they don't cure properly if they touch -

0:34:380:34:40

and that plenty of air flow gets around them.

0:34:400:34:43

You can obviously buy a curing chamber,

0:34:460:34:48

but it certainly isn't a magic box that if you put it in

0:34:480:34:50

it's going to come out beautiful every time.

0:34:500:34:53

But Jackie seems to have got hers down to a tee,

0:34:540:34:57

and her range includes a wide selection

0:34:570:34:59

of salamis and cured meats,

0:34:590:35:01

from rosemary infused pancetta to pork loin and beef.

0:35:010:35:06

This is coppa. This is one of my favourite cuts.

0:35:060:35:08

Instead of Parma ham with the fat being on the outside,

0:35:080:35:11

the fat is running through the muscle, but it's not too much.

0:35:110:35:15

This is absolutely stunning.

0:35:150:35:16

It's just lightly spiced again with garlic and black pepper.

0:35:160:35:19

You eat it exactly like a Parma ham,

0:35:190:35:21

but I think it actually has more flavour.

0:35:210:35:23

Then I've just got a couple of salamis here.

0:35:230:35:26

This one is actually garlic and black pepper. This one is my hot chorizo.

0:35:260:35:31

Beautiful again as it is, cos it's got a quite punchy flavour.

0:35:310:35:34

Jackie's finding there's a very hungry market out there

0:35:360:35:39

for her home-made British charcuterie.

0:35:390:35:41

Thank you very much indeed. Shall I give you one of my cards?

0:35:470:35:50

We couldn't believe the quality and the taste

0:35:500:35:52

and that it comes from East Anglia, cos we live in Norfolk.

0:35:520:35:56

Lovely. It's a really super product.

0:35:560:35:58

Just had a little taster. Really nice.

0:35:580:36:00

So thought, "That's it. We'll go for it."

0:36:000:36:03

It's a natural product made with a traditional recipe

0:36:030:36:05

with really high quality East Anglian ingredients.

0:36:050:36:08

Thank you very much indeed. Enjoy.

0:36:080:36:10

One of the most famous charcuterie foods is pancetta,

0:36:130:36:16

and it's the key ingredient in my mouthwatering rapid penne carbonara.

0:36:160:36:21

Now, pasta has to be the ultimate food

0:36:230:36:25

for something quick and simple at home.

0:36:250:36:28

This is penne pasta, this is fresh pasta in a packet like this.

0:36:280:36:31

But if you want to know how penne is actually made,

0:36:310:36:34

you need one of these.

0:36:340:36:35

Now I love my gadgets in my house, and this is a pasta maker.

0:36:350:36:39

This is a kilo of "00" flour,

0:36:390:36:42

which is kind of like a pasta flour.

0:36:420:36:44

It's often called tipo flour.

0:36:440:36:46

We use some of this.

0:36:460:36:48

This is semolina flour, which is finer than traditional semolina,

0:36:480:36:52

but we need a kilo of this as well...

0:36:520:36:55

Into our mixture.

0:36:550:36:57

Then there's quite a lot of eggs going into this.

0:36:570:36:59

I know I like my butter, but this requires 12 eggs in here.

0:36:590:37:04

You just carefully add them in, making sure there's no shells.

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Once the eggs are in, the fun begins.

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Turn the machine on and it mixes the ingredients into smooth pastry.

0:37:110:37:16

It can make any type of pasta - tagliatelle, linguine or even

0:37:160:37:20

pasta shells, depending on the shape of the cutter you uses.

0:37:200:37:23

Of course, a good quality fresh pasta works well too,

0:37:230:37:26

but you can't beat a good kitchen gadget.

0:37:260:37:28

It's cool, isn't it?

0:37:300:37:31

Every kitchen should have one of these, it's fantastic.

0:37:310:37:34

So, to simply make our carbonara, what we need is just some water.

0:37:380:37:43

A trick I find with pasta is plenty of salted water.

0:37:450:37:48

No oil.

0:37:500:37:51

I don't know where that sort of idea of oil in pasta comes from,

0:37:510:37:57

but I don't add that.

0:37:570:37:58

But it does require plenty of salt in the water,

0:37:580:38:01

so season it really, really well.

0:38:010:38:03

So boiling water, what we're going to do is crisp up our bacon.

0:38:030:38:07

We've got some pancetta here.

0:38:070:38:08

If you're going to make this with conventional bacon,

0:38:080:38:11

my best advice is to use dry-cured bacon.

0:38:110:38:14

So when you put it in the pan, it doesn't go all sweaty

0:38:140:38:17

and scummy on the top as you often find in cheaper bacon.

0:38:170:38:21

That's because it's injected with water.

0:38:210:38:23

So, in theory, you are actually paying for water

0:38:230:38:25

and not the actual product itself.

0:38:250:38:28

You can get this diced now from supermarkets, already done,

0:38:280:38:31

which is really good.

0:38:310:38:32

I don't know where on Earth we're going in the UK.

0:38:330:38:35

I actually walked into a shop the other day

0:38:350:38:37

and found you could actually buy crispy bacon already done.

0:38:370:38:40

Throw in this pancetta.

0:38:430:38:45

We're going to get this nice and crispy,

0:38:450:38:46

so put a decent amount in as well.

0:38:460:38:48

Let's face it, who doesn't like bacon?

0:38:500:38:52

Vegetarians, probably, but...

0:38:520:38:55

Just fry this off. You want to get some colour in there.

0:38:550:38:59

The most important thing is we do get it crispy.

0:38:590:39:01

That looks pretty good.

0:39:050:39:06

The sauce is easy. First, I need three egg yolks.

0:39:090:39:13

Separate the eggs in the palm of your hand.

0:39:130:39:16

It's been around long before egg separators.

0:39:160:39:18

Next, add just a touch of double cream.

0:39:200:39:22

Did I say a touch?

0:39:240:39:25

100ml...ish.

0:39:260:39:27

Give that a quick mix.

0:39:290:39:31

Grate in around 50g of Parmesan. You want good quality cheese for this.

0:39:320:39:37

A decent amount for that creamy flavour.

0:39:370:39:39

It's going to go into our eggs and our egg yolks.

0:39:430:39:46

See, the bacon now is starting to crisp up.

0:39:470:39:49

Look.

0:39:530:39:54

Crispy bacon.

0:39:540:39:56

Delicious.

0:39:560:39:57

Then what we're going to do now is just cook some of this pasta.

0:39:590:40:02

Ideally you want this to dry out a little bit.

0:40:020:40:05

But we're going to cook some of this...

0:40:050:40:08

in the boiling water.

0:40:080:40:10

This pasta, this one particularly, will take about a couple of minutes.

0:40:100:40:14

You can see now... You've got a lovely bacon, nice and crisp.

0:40:160:40:20

That's going to go into our pot.

0:40:210:40:22

I don't know why I'm draining it off,

0:40:230:40:25

cos I'm going to throw the fat in as well, so just chuck it all in.

0:40:250:40:29

Give this a quick mix.

0:40:320:40:33

We then take some fresh parsley.

0:40:350:40:37

The secret with this is the egg yolks, really, in here.

0:40:400:40:43

If we get the pasta nice and hot

0:40:430:40:44

when we add it to the egg yolks and the cream,

0:40:440:40:47

it actually cooks the egg yolks.

0:40:470:40:49

This is really one of the fastest dishes that I know of.

0:40:490:40:52

It just takes the time that the pasta takes to cook, almost.

0:40:520:40:56

We're going to drain this off...

0:40:560:40:58

into the sink.

0:40:580:41:00

This is where you've got to be quick.

0:41:020:41:04

You want the pasta already hot now.

0:41:040:41:06

So while the pasta is still warm and steaming like that,

0:41:060:41:08

then we throw it in the sauce.

0:41:080:41:10

Mix this together.

0:41:110:41:12

What happens now, the egg yolks start to cook onto the pasta,

0:41:140:41:17

it glazes all that pasta as well.

0:41:170:41:20

Cos we've made it with the penne pasta, you've got the tubes,

0:41:210:41:24

so all the sauce, all the bits go inside those tubes as well.

0:41:240:41:28

Bit of black pepper.

0:41:300:41:31

Nice.

0:41:330:41:34

Then...a fancy plate.

0:41:350:41:37

The whole lot. The sauce is gone, you see?

0:41:380:41:41

It's all soaked into the pasta as well.

0:41:410:41:44

That sits on there.

0:41:470:41:48

Then, finally, just a grating of this Parmesan over the top.

0:41:500:41:53

There you have it.

0:41:540:41:56

Carbonara, cooked pretty quick.

0:41:570:42:00

That is so good.

0:42:050:42:07

Because I've got plenty,

0:42:070:42:09

this is the one dish I'm going to let the crew have.

0:42:090:42:11

Go on, off you go.

0:42:110:42:12

Cooking in a hurry doesn't mean

0:42:130:42:15

you have to compromise on good eating.

0:42:150:42:17

All it takes is a bit of imagination.

0:42:190:42:21

When time's tight or your day is just too hectic, what better reward

0:42:210:42:26

than great-tasting food like this that's on your plate in minutes?

0:42:260:42:30

If you'd like to know more about how to cook any of the recipes

0:42:330:42:36

featured on today's show,

0:42:360:42:37

you can get all of them at our website...

0:42:370:42:39

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