A Taste of Home James Martin: Home Comforts


A Taste of Home

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'The heart of my home is the kitchen.

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'And it's here that I love to cook delicious meals for my nearest

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'and dearest.'

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-Cheers.

-Cheers!

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'There's no better way to celebrate everything good in life

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'than sharing some great food with the people you love.

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'These are the dishes that I cook

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'when I want to bring people together.'

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These are my Home Comforts.

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'I absolutely love chilling at home and for me,

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'spending time in the kitchen is a great way to unwind.

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'But I'm not too interested in the latest foodie fads.

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'My favourite flavours come from way back.'

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My early childhood days were spent running around on a farm and

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those memories still influence the way that I think about food today.

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So I'm going to rustle up some very special dishes that for me

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really are the taste of home.

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'So today, I'll be rolling out a family favourite...'

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That is just delicious!

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'..rehabilitating a homemade dessert from my school days...'

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Blancmange can be really, really good!

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'..and cooking lunch for one of my all-time heroes,

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'motor racing legend Sir Stirling Moss.'

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-What hit that bit?

-My head.

-I bet you that hurt.

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I wasn't there at the time.

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But before meeting my boyhood idol,

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I'm picking an ingredient that brings me right back to those early days.

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I grow tomatoes in my garden just like my grandad did

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and this fabulous dish showcases them in all their glory.

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I always like to produce my own tomatoes. I've got about 16,

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18 different varieties at the bottom of the garden,

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so what I'm going to create is a really simple tomato consomme

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that once it's made, it tastes amazing.

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So I'm going to use a selection of different tomatoes.

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Now, the one thing you have to do is buy tomatoes that are bang

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in season because the key to this dish is the flavour from these.

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Now, you don't get them

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if you buy the foreign tomatoes that are out of season.

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It's really, really simple, this.

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Grab your tomatoes. Plenty of tomatoes like this.

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Keep the seeds, keep the skin in there.

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You want all this for colour and you just place them in our blender.

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You need about two kilos of tomatoes, along with two chopped shallots,

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and a splash of both hot pepper and Worcestershire sauce

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to give it a spicy kick.

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That's really it, apart from just a few sprigs of basil.

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Lid on.

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And then you need to pulse this.

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Don't go mad with the pulsing.

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It's a rough mixture you're looking for, rather than a fine soup.

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That looks pretty good to me.

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If I lift this out, and then we can have a quick taste.

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Fresh tomatoes out of your garden, they really are so good.

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Black pepper.

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Put a little bit more salt in there.

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And pulse it again.

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That's perfect.

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Now, grab a colander, a bowl and some muslin for straining.

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Now, you can get away with a tea towel,

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make sure it's an old tea towel, otherwise you're going to need

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a new one because this is much easier, to be honest.

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Line the colander with the muslin and pour in the mixture.

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Straightaway, a clear liquid will start dripping down into the bowl.

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This is the intensely flavoured consomme.

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If you force it through, the mixture will go cloudy.

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What you must do is just basically just allow

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the weight of the tomatoes to push itself on to the muslin cloth.

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And then what I'm going to do is use these pegs. Proper wooden pegs.

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Now, don't start on me.

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I have this obsession with antique shops, wooden chopping boards,

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and pegs.

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It's a long story.

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Use whatever pegs you've got at home to seal

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the mixture inside the muslin.

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Then just leave it to do its thing.

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I've got one that's been in the fridge overnight.

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Wants to go in there for at least 12 hours really.

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If I lift this off, you've got this clear liquid.

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Now, also in here, what you have got... You've got this...

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Looks like beef mince, really.

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You can add a little bit of olive oil to this,

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cook it in a pan for about sort of 15 minutes,

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you end up with an amazing tomato sauce that you can use for pasta, so you don't want to waste this.

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We can keep that to one side. But what I'm interested in for this bit is what's in here.

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It's delicious. I don't like gazpacho soup,

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but this is just fantastic and whenever I taste this,

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it just reminds me of that smell of the garden,

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the bottom of the garden and that greenhouse.

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The minute you open the door, that smell of tomatoes...

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You just get that all in one bowl.

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For me, cold soups like this are best served really simply.

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So to go with it, I'm using some heritage tomatoes.

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Just get a mixture of each.

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And just a little slice of each one,

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so you just take a few slices for this.

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You don't want to serve a massive bowl of it.

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It's not like a winter warming soup.

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It's quite delicate.

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But you can see

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you get this wonderful colour from it.

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And then finally,

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you've got a few bits of basil.

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I like to use the top, really small leaves for this one.

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Just a few bits of basil in there and that's it.

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What I love about this dish is its simplicity.

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It uses tomatoes and basil just from the garden.

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It really is the taste of my home, all in one bowl.

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Delicious, that.

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The ingredients I grew up with are all around me,

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but, for some, the tastes and aromas of childhood are much further away.

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Razan Alsous is originally from Syria,

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but she's brought a taste of her Middle Eastern homeland to Yorkshire.

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Halloumi cheese is a type of Mediterranean cheese,

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it's a fresh cheese, not aged.

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It reminds me of very, very nice memories in Syria.

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They eat it for lunch, for dinner,

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we can have it with the fruits,

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we have it sometimes with vegetables.

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For breakfast, especially halloumi with watermelons.

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Sometimes we do samosa.

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We do pastry with the halloumi as well.

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We use it in so many recipes.

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It's one of the main ingredients,

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very important ingredient in Syria.

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Razan's road from her home in Syria to Yorkshire was a rocky one.

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It began in Damascus where she had a promising career as a pharmacist.

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But in 2011, the country was gripped by fierce fighting.

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Because of the war, it's not safe any more.

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It was like whenever you go outside home,

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you don't know whether you will be back

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or you would be kidnapped,

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die maybe because of an explosion.

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So we thought we need to go to find another place for our kids to live,

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and to build a new future.

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So we came here to the UK in 2012,

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to survive

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and to have a new life for the kids.

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Razan and her husband Raheed arrived in the UK with nothing

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but a few belongings.

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They moved to Huddersfield to be near relatives,

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and Razan had to come up with a way to support her family.

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So let's think about what is available surrounding us?

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In Huddersfield, there's plenty of green, plenty of cows,

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and the milk was really creamy and rich in flavour.

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In 2013, UK was the largest consumer for halloumi in Europe.

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So at that point I thought, "Why not do halloumi in Yorkshire?"

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And having Yorkshire halloumi, that would be lovely idea.

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Traditionally, halloumi is made

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with milk from regions in the Mediterranean.

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But Razan discovered that Yorkshire milk was just as good for the job.

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The milk coming from British Friesian cows,

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it got high salt content

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and that makes the cheese more creamy and the flavour is stronger.

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Like most cheeses,

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halloumi is made by first adding an enzyme to warmed milk.

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The enzyme reacts with the milk to produce curds and whey.

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The soft white curds are then removed, drained and rested

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before being cut up into cubes ready to be boiled.

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In this stage, when we boil the cheese,

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this makes the halloumi halloumi actually,

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it's got squeaky feeling when you eat it.

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For me, some areas around the world, they got oil,

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some of them, they got minerals and, in Yorkshire, they got milk.

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And now they've also got Razan's halloumi,

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which takes about three to four days from start to finish

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before it hits the shelves in the local shops.

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Luckily Razan's family doesn't have to wait that long.

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Oh, hmm!

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-And one for me, baba?

-No, just for Mummy!

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-It has exactly the same taste that we used to have...

-Mmm.

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..over there in Damascus.

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And while the flavours of Syria live on in their food,

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the family are happily rebuilding their lives here in the UK.

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Because home is meaning safe,

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memories, building future.

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This is my dream, I hope the dream will become bigger and bigger

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and everyone eating Yorkshire halloumi.

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Memories of home-cooked dishes remain powerful as we get older.

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I was brought up on a pig farm,

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so even the smell of roast pork and crackling

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takes me right back to my childhood.

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This is my up-to-date version of a British classic,

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with an Italian twist.

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This is a version of Italian street food, I think, in Italy,

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where they serve it hot or cold sliced, it's delicious.

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But served hot with apple sauce,

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this takes it to a different level.

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It's just a wonderful little dish.

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Now I've got a loin of pork here

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which has got part of the belly attached.

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Now the loin is equivalent to sort of sirloin on beef,

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it's classed as a prime cut.

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However, the bit that's become more popular over recent years is this -

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the belly part.

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We're going to actually incorporate this into a nice roasting joint,

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and it is a serious roasting joint.

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Remember, we were farmers,

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so we didn't do little piddly bits of food, it was proper grub.

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So to do that, we need to open this out

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in a way that it all cooks nice and evenly.

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Now what we're going to do is we're going to cut this eye of the meat

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straight through like that. Straight through.

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About a third of the way up really.

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Now you can see, already, it's starting to get the same level.

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At that point, we can then lift the knife up a bit,

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and cut slightly further up,

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so you're constantly opening it up,

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so you've got this nice little parcel.

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Until you get to the end,

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which is probably there.

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You need to repeat this process with the pork belly.

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You can see now, this is almost, well, twice the size of what it was.

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Now if you're unsure about doing this, you can, of course,

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get your butcher to do it,

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but it is actually pretty straightforward.

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After a quick wash of the hands, I can turn my attention to the filling.

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I start with some chopped onions...

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..sage leaves and sultanas, for a bit of sweetness.

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And then, finally, some British Bramley apples,

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and the reason why these are good,

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the acidity from the apple cuts down the fattiness of the pork

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and that's why it really is... it's a classic combination,

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it's like Tom and Jerry, it just works so well together.

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Roughly chop these up and add them to everything else.

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If it looks good at this stage,

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it's going to look good and going to taste good in the end.

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The last thing to do is add some butter, salt and pepper,

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along with the zest of two lemons.

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You're then, literally, ready to roll.

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What I like to do, really, when I roll this up

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is start off with the loin end

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because we want to protect that nice bit of meat in here.

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If we leave that on the outside,

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it's going to sort of dry out,

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so we want to make sure

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the outside of the pork is actually the belly part here.

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So start at the loin end

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and just roll it up, like that.

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And we end up with this, like that.

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What a fantastic piece.

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It's like a savoury Swiss roll.

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This won't hold its shape on its own,

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so you need to tie it up.

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Start by making a loop at one end of the string,

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and pull it underneath the pork.

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Then thread the loose end through the loop.

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Tie that nice and tight like that.

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Now once you get to that,

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keep the tension on this,

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hold the string directly forward,

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and then wrap it round

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and underneath the loin again.

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Then repeat this all the way along the pork.

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I was never very good at wrapping presents as a kid,

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I was much better at unwrapping them.

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At this point,

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we can then double tie this, just underneath.

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Then before putting it onto an oven tray,

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make a trivet out of onions, carrots, garlic and lemon.

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And then just finally,

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what I'm going to do with this -

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now you could use oil,

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but I'm going to use butter.

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This is where you're going to end up

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with that nice crispy crackling that we want.

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And you get that by, to be honest, using good quality pork.

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A good pinch of salt.

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Now just take the pork and just stick it on your trivet.

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To stop this drying out as well while it's roasting,

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I'm going to take a bottle of wine.

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A bottle of wine.

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You can always top this up with water as well...while it's cooking.

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Now it's ready to stick in the oven,

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starting at 220 degrees centigrade for 30 minutes.

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After that, turn the heat down to 150 degrees for a further three hours.

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You can't have roast pork without apple sauce.

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So for that, you just need some sugar, a little bit of butter

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and some of these amazing Bramley apples.

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And this is where you kind of walk around the supermarkets now

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and see stuff like apple sauce already in jars, already made.

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I can't understand why

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when, just round the corner, you've got fresh Bramley apples like this

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and it takes such little time to make your own apple sauce.

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And the taste is far, far better.

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So you're just going to peel... about three apples will be enough.

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But, mmm, these apples are just delicious.

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What we're going to do now is just chop these up.

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And apple sauce, I find, shouldn't be smooth as well,

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it should be, well, what people seem to call me quite a lot - chunky -

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which is nice.

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Put some water in a pan and chuck all the apples in.

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Then add two to four tablespoons of caster sugar.

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You don't want too much really.

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You can use brown sugar for this,

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but it changes the colour of the apple sauce.

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Then add some lemon juice to stop it going brown,

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along with a bit of butter.

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And then we cook this for about ten minutes, and you've got apple sauce.

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How easy is that?

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When the sauce is cooked, set aside to cool down.

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After about three-and-a-half hours, the porchetta will be ready.

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Now the great thing about this, of course, you can have it hot or cold.

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And then if you are going to do it hot, you've got this amazing gravy.

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It's really good.

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Sometimes, it's slightly bitter, which that is.

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You can compensate for that by adding just a touch of sugar.

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And I mean a touch.

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And that means when you taste it,

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you don't want it to be sweet, obviously,

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but it takes away that bitterness.

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You can just pour this in your jug.

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The gravy is ready, and so is the apple sauce.

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Time to dive in.

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CRACKLING CRUNCHES

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Listen to that. And proper apple sauce.

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Dunk it in.

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You see, this is the moment in time

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I'm supposed to tell you how good it is, but you can hear it.

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Roast pork with crackling and apple sauce.

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That is just delicious.

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If I don't live past tomorrow,

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I'd be a happy man right now.

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To be honest, I've run out of things to say about this superb dish,

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it's simply left me lost for words...

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..unlike the man that food historian Dr Annie Grey

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is going to tell us about.

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He was a Georgian vicar and one of the world's first food bloggers.

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James Woodforde was a parson for most of his life in Norfolk

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in the late 18th century.

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He would be completely unremarkable

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were it not for the fact that he kept a very detailed diary.

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His focus is on the minutiae of everyday life -

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where he went, who he visited and most importantly, what he ate.

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I'm going to cook 18th-century recipes which would be typical

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of the kind of things that Parson Woodforde would have eaten at home.

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I'm going to cook some fritters made with clary sage.

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But, first, salt cod accompanied with a rich egg sauce.

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It would have arrived looking something like this,

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and sounding something like this.

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HOLLOW KNOCKING

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A piece of fish this size would be soaked for about a week

0:19:220:19:25

with regular water changes,

0:19:250:19:27

before being cut into strips and coated in flour.

0:19:270:19:30

Pretty good food.

0:19:300:19:31

But that was to be expected in the Georgian vicarage.

0:19:310:19:35

Despite the fact that James Woodforde was a parson,

0:19:350:19:38

he was above all else a member of his class,

0:19:380:19:40

a member of the gentry, a wealthy man.

0:19:400:19:43

He enjoyed going out for dinner,

0:19:430:19:45

he enjoyed music,

0:19:450:19:46

he enjoyed socialising.

0:19:460:19:48

So his diaries give us a really vivid picture

0:19:480:19:51

of how the rural gentry ate in the late 18th century.

0:19:510:19:55

And those posh Georgian foodies loved their rich dishes.

0:19:550:19:58

The fish was fried in a pan swimming with butter.

0:20:000:20:03

And while it drained, they made an egg sauce to go with it.

0:20:040:20:08

I think I was born in the wrong century.

0:20:080:20:11

There's no doubt that Parson Woodforde's rich diet

0:20:110:20:14

did take its toll on his health.

0:20:140:20:16

He records various ailments in the diary,

0:20:160:20:19

but none affects him quite so much

0:20:190:20:21

as that typical 18th-century illness - gout.

0:20:210:20:25

His gout was not only caused by the rich food that he ate,

0:20:270:20:29

but also because he liked to drink.

0:20:290:20:32

He recorded in 1790, for example,

0:20:320:20:36

"I used myself before and all of last winter

0:20:360:20:38

"to a pint of port every evening."

0:20:380:20:40

I think if I drank a pint of port, I'd be on the floor every evening.

0:20:400:20:46

OK, that much port might be pushing it, but the egg sauce?

0:20:460:20:50

Sounds fine to me.

0:20:500:20:52

Annie makes it by adding milk to a roux made from butter and flour.

0:20:520:20:56

When it's thickened, she throws in some chopped hard-boiled eggs.

0:20:560:21:01

There we are - egg sauce.

0:21:010:21:02

There's one final touch, though.

0:21:020:21:04

I don't think there's been enough butter in this dish so far.

0:21:040:21:08

So let's fry some parsley in more butter.

0:21:080:21:11

This meal just gets better and better.

0:21:120:21:15

Now, as well as loving his food, Parson Woodforde enjoyed company -

0:21:150:21:19

like many of the members of the Georgian gentry,

0:21:190:21:22

he loved nothing more than throwing a dinner party.

0:21:220:21:25

It would have been quite likely that his dinner guests would have

0:21:250:21:28

gone for a walk in the vegetable garden or indeed the fruit orchard,

0:21:280:21:31

and possibly even admired Parson Woodforde's hens

0:21:310:21:34

on the way back for dinner.

0:21:340:21:35

So this really would have been a true taste of home.

0:21:350:21:38

Excellent. A lovely dish

0:21:420:21:44

to put in front of Parson Woodforde's group of lovely friends.

0:21:440:21:48

And now I'm going to do one of my favourite 18th-century recipes,

0:21:520:21:55

which is clary sage fritters.

0:21:550:21:57

Clary sage is a leafy herb

0:21:590:22:01

which was much more popular in Parson Woodforde's time than it is now.

0:22:010:22:05

It doesn't taste like the kind of sage

0:22:070:22:09

that we're used to using as a savoury herb today,

0:22:090:22:11

it's a sort of almost overpoweringly sickly smell.

0:22:110:22:15

The leaves don't taste quite as strange as the flowers smell,

0:22:150:22:19

they just tasted of green,

0:22:190:22:22

but they are absolutely brilliant as battered fritters.

0:22:220:22:25

Annie de-veins the leaves and cuts them into strips.

0:22:270:22:30

Now to make my batter.

0:22:300:22:32

This is a lovely rich batter, full of sugar and cream. And brandy.

0:22:370:22:43

So it is particularly bad, I suspect, if you've got gout

0:22:430:22:46

as Parson Woodforde did.

0:22:460:22:48

After dipping the leaves in the boozy batter, it's time to fry.

0:22:510:22:54

It's a really good way of taking something green and healthy,

0:22:560:22:59

and making it really lovely.

0:22:590:23:01

I look at this and I think,

0:23:040:23:06

"There's no doubt that Parson Woodforde was a foodie."

0:23:060:23:09

However, we should regard him really as a diarist, a writer,

0:23:090:23:14

a chronicler of everyday life.

0:23:140:23:17

He's a brilliant, brilliant bloke.

0:23:170:23:19

Anyone who liked battered herbs fried in butter sounds good to me.

0:23:200:23:23

The fritters just took a couple of minutes to cook

0:23:230:23:26

before they were served

0:23:260:23:28

with a decoration of candied borage and clary flowers.

0:23:280:23:32

This is a meal that I think Parson Woodforde would have been proud of.

0:23:320:23:36

Lots of things from his own garden,

0:23:360:23:39

so this really would have been a taste of home.

0:23:390:23:42

I also love looking at old recipes -

0:23:470:23:49

they remind me of important places and people.

0:23:490:23:52

This one in particular stands out for me because my granny used to make it.

0:23:530:23:58

It's raspberry blancmange.

0:23:580:24:00

Before you all switch over,

0:24:020:24:04

blancmange can be really, really good.

0:24:040:24:06

A lot of people have been scarred for life

0:24:060:24:09

with blancmange they had as a kid cos you used to bounce it off the walls,

0:24:090:24:13

but it can be made really nice.

0:24:130:24:14

Blancmange is basically a set custard.

0:24:140:24:18

But before I get on with making that,

0:24:180:24:20

I put 600 grams of fresh raspberries in a blender with a little water.

0:24:200:24:24

Once pureed, I'm going to use them to flavour the dessert.

0:24:240:24:28

And now I can sweeten this up a touch.

0:24:340:24:36

I like to use icing sugar really

0:24:360:24:37

because you can't taste the grains in it.

0:24:370:24:39

So a nice little bit of icing sugar.

0:24:390:24:42

That's probably enough.

0:24:420:24:45

Now carry on blitzing until the mixture becomes a puree.

0:24:480:24:52

Then pass it through a sieve to take out all the seeds.

0:24:520:24:55

So many people, when they're making a sauce like this,

0:24:550:24:58

be it out of raspberries or strawberries,

0:24:580:25:00

will actually cook the berries.

0:25:000:25:02

It's not the same as this.

0:25:020:25:04

You get a delicious flavour of just the fresh fruit,

0:25:040:25:07

and that's exactly what we want for this.

0:25:070:25:10

Once that's done, set it aside and start on the blancmange itself.

0:25:100:25:15

The first ingredient for this is gelatine.

0:25:150:25:17

This is what you've got to be careful about with this,

0:25:170:25:19

especially with old-fashioned cookbooks,

0:25:190:25:21

because they tell you to use one or two or three leaves of gelatine.

0:25:210:25:24

Well, gelatine has shrunk over the years,

0:25:240:25:27

it used to be about this sort of length, now it's less than half that,

0:25:270:25:31

so sometimes the recipe won't work.

0:25:310:25:32

So you've almost got to compensate for it

0:25:320:25:34

by adding a little bit more gelatine.

0:25:340:25:36

For this, about five leaves,

0:25:360:25:39

which we need to soak in cold water.

0:25:390:25:41

While that softens, make the blancmange custard

0:25:430:25:46

by mixing a tablespoon of cornflour with two tablespoons of icing sugar.

0:25:460:25:50

Then pour in 250ml of milk, starting with a small amount.

0:25:520:25:56

Keep stirring until you get a paste,

0:25:580:26:00

then add the rest of the milk,

0:26:000:26:02

pop the whole lot into a pan

0:26:020:26:03

and then add a teaspoon of vanilla extract.

0:26:030:26:06

I like to use extract rather than essence

0:26:070:26:10

because essence, I find, is a chemical, this is natural.

0:26:100:26:13

Put it on the heat,

0:26:130:26:15

and just gently warm this through.

0:26:150:26:17

Now, you need a whisk for this.

0:26:170:26:19

Because you've got the cornflour in there, it's going to thicken,

0:26:190:26:23

so this is where you've got to stand by your stove

0:26:230:26:26

and keep your eye on it.

0:26:260:26:28

It's thought that,

0:26:290:26:31

way back in the Middle Ages when blancmange used to be a savoury dish,

0:26:310:26:35

one that was done with chicken or quail set with almond milk

0:26:350:26:38

and stuff like that, it was fed to the sick.

0:26:380:26:42

Let's face it, if you're going to put chicken and quail in this,

0:26:420:26:46

this is one dish to really get you out of bed

0:26:460:26:48

because you don't want a second portion.

0:26:480:26:51

Right, this is starting to thicken now,

0:26:520:26:54

you can really concentrate on this as it starts to thicken up.

0:26:540:26:58

You see you get this paste.

0:26:580:26:59

Now you can add the soft gelatine to the mixture, dissolving it in.

0:27:010:27:05

Now, at this point, we can then pour in the cream.

0:27:060:27:09

The cream can be cold - this is double cream - and keep whisking.

0:27:090:27:14

And then this is where you can flavour it

0:27:140:27:16

with whatever you want really - chicken, quail, ground almonds...

0:27:160:27:21

Quail blancmange isn't exactly the taste of home for me,

0:27:230:27:26

so I'm whisking in raspberry puree instead.

0:27:260:27:29

Look at that!

0:27:310:27:33

See, now it looks like blancmange.

0:27:330:27:35

And now it's ready to go into the moulds.

0:27:350:27:37

I've got a couple of fantastic rabbit-shaped ones. Proper 1970s.

0:27:370:27:42

And then you take your rabbit blancmanges

0:27:450:27:47

and stick them in the fridge.

0:27:470:27:49

They want about a couple of hours to set.

0:27:490:27:52

These are going to be delicious.

0:27:520:27:54

When those couple of hours are up,

0:27:570:27:58

you can turn them out.

0:27:580:28:00

Dip the moulds into some hot water to loosen them up,

0:28:000:28:03

then gently tease out the blancmange.

0:28:030:28:06

You could just leave them like this,

0:28:090:28:10

but where's the fun in that?

0:28:100:28:12

Granny never did that bit, but it makes it shiny.

0:28:200:28:23

And then, just to garnish it with...

0:28:230:28:27

you can grab some of this lovely raspberry sauce.

0:28:270:28:31

And then, grab loads and loads of raspberries.

0:28:360:28:38

And also another herb which is really good is this - lemon verbena.

0:28:440:28:49

Now, I grow loads of it in my garden.

0:28:490:28:51

I remember... this is again a childhood smell.

0:28:510:28:56

They used to make soap out of this stuff.

0:28:560:28:59

It tastes amazing,

0:28:590:29:01

whether you just put warm water in it and have it as tea.

0:29:010:29:04

I like to put it in desserts.

0:29:050:29:07

Look at that.

0:29:120:29:13

And there you have it - blancmange in the shape of a rabbit.

0:29:130:29:16

Those raspberries are just delicious.

0:29:200:29:23

It takes blancmange to a different level.

0:29:230:29:25

It is very kitsch, it is 1970s, but I'm a 1970s' kid.

0:29:270:29:30

And for me, nothing brings back childhood memories quite like

0:29:320:29:35

the sweet, wobbly desserts my granny used to make.

0:29:350:29:38

Well, nothing apart from a good old Sunday roast.

0:29:400:29:43

Down in Suffolk, sisters Lucy and Emily McVeigh

0:29:450:29:47

are fighting to keep that Great British tradition going

0:29:470:29:50

by saving our oldest cattle breed from extinction.

0:29:500:29:54

I'm primarily in charge of the production of our longhorn cattle,

0:29:540:29:58

and that includes feeding, looking after the calves, pregnancy testing.

0:29:580:30:02

My role on the farm is really on the beef production side and sales.

0:30:050:30:09

So I spend time in the butchery and also in our farm shop selling our meat directly to our customers.

0:30:090:30:14

The farm is very much a real family affair.

0:30:150:30:19

Dad David, Mum Sharon, and younger brother Tom also share the work.

0:30:190:30:23

'So we have been farming as a family since 1640 which makes us the 12th generation.'

0:30:250:30:30

Lucy and Tom and Emily seem to be following me into it which I am very pleased about.

0:30:300:30:35

It is just absolutely wonderful to see them taking an interest for themselves

0:30:350:30:39

and take on that responsibility.

0:30:390:30:41

What they are responsible for is helping to save these -

0:30:410:30:44

English longhorn cattle.

0:30:440:30:47

This traditional pure breed was once a familiar sight in the British countryside.

0:30:470:30:52

But by the 19th century, other more specialised breeds became popular

0:30:520:30:57

and the Longhorn's sad decline began.

0:30:570:30:59

At one stage they were almost as rare as giant pandas.

0:30:590:31:03

We are lucky enough now to be one of the few farmers in the east to be

0:31:030:31:07

able to rear and look after longhorn cattle. And we started with just six so we are now up to mid-50s

0:31:070:31:13

and it's something I would really like to expand on and try and grow the herd.

0:31:130:31:18

The breed are very even-tempered

0:31:180:31:20

and once pulled peasant farmers' carts and ploughs.

0:31:200:31:24

As valuable hard-working animals, they were kept to make cheese

0:31:240:31:27

and butter from their milk, but nowadays the meat is more appreciated.

0:31:270:31:32

Longhorn cattle are a wonderful breed of cattle in their own right.

0:31:320:31:37

I chose them primarily because of the reputation of the meat

0:31:370:31:41

and the meat is absolutely superb.

0:31:410:31:44

I hadn't realised at the time of buying them we are going to get lovely docile cattle.

0:31:440:31:49

They are very, very easy to calve.

0:31:490:31:51

Very seldom do we ever have to help them.

0:31:510:31:54

English longhorns may be an easy-going breed,

0:31:540:31:57

but down on the paddock a little one isn't thriving.

0:31:570:32:02

So we've got a little calf called Peter who was born a few days ago. He's struggling to suckle.

0:32:020:32:07

The mum's teats are quite large. So at the moment we are bottle-feeding him

0:32:070:32:11

every four hours which can be difficult but it's definitely

0:32:110:32:14

worthwhile doing when you've got a lovely bold bullock at the end of it.

0:32:140:32:18

He is up and he's just had a good feed. Mum will come over and see him now, check he's OK.

0:32:200:32:28

Little Peter will soon be joining the older cows who get to graze

0:32:280:32:32

on lush glass for much longer than most other cattle.

0:32:320:32:35

We rear our animals to 30 months of age, unlike commercial cattle which are mostly

0:32:360:32:41

raised to about 18 months of age. This means that the animal is matured for longer

0:32:410:32:45

and this really comes out in the flavour of the beef.

0:32:450:32:48

The cattle are dispatched by a local abattoir.

0:32:480:32:52

But immediately come back to the farm's own on-site butchery

0:32:520:32:56

because Emily believes their longhorn beef deserves special care.

0:32:560:33:01

Our cattle here are grass fed which means that when you see the fat coverage on the meat

0:33:010:33:06

it's a lovely yellow colour, and also it's fantastic marbling throughout the meat, which you can

0:33:060:33:11

see here, which enhances the flavour when the meat is being cooked.

0:33:110:33:15

The McVeighs have organised a farm to plate Sunday lunch

0:33:170:33:21

to showcase the longhorn beef for customers, family and friends.

0:33:210:33:26

In the kitchen, chef Peter knows that keeping it simple will

0:33:260:33:29

highlight the fantastic taste of the beef.

0:33:290:33:32

We are going to be roasting it in the oven.

0:33:320:33:34

We're going to serve it as a traditional Sunday lunch with

0:33:340:33:37

Yorkshire pudding, home-grown vegetables from the garden. Fantastic.

0:33:370:33:41

Well, the setting is idyllic for a Sunday roast. But how's the taste?

0:33:510:33:55

-The beef is delicious. Beautiful.

-Absolutely delicious.

0:33:570:34:01

Wonderful experience.

0:34:010:34:03

It's been a really great success today.

0:34:030:34:05

We've had a fantastic lunch and it's great to see people

0:34:050:34:08

tucking into their delicious roast beef and enjoying the food.

0:34:080:34:12

It really makes the whole process worthwhile.

0:34:120:34:14

A traditional breed and an old-fashioned roast.

0:34:140:34:18

Now that really is a taste of home.

0:34:180:34:20

'A good Sunday roast really reminds me of growing up but these days I'm just

0:34:230:34:28

'as happy to sit down to a big plate of steak and chips when I get home.

0:34:280:34:32

'Today I'm cooking just that for arguably the greatest

0:34:320:34:36

'all-round racing driver ever. Sir Stirling Moss OBE.

0:34:360:34:41

'In his heyday he won 16 F1 Grand Prix.

0:34:410:34:45

'A near fatal accident at Goodwood in 1962 ended his career

0:34:450:34:50

'but it hasn't dented his sense of humour.'

0:34:500:34:53

This is the steering wheel. Not meant to be that shape.

0:34:530:34:57

-This is...

-When is this from then?

0:34:570:35:00

It's from Goodwood, my crash, the last crash I had.

0:35:000:35:03

-What hit that bit down here?

-My head.

-I bet you that hurt.

0:35:030:35:07

I wasn't there at the time!

0:35:070:35:09

Will we have steak and chips?

0:35:110:35:13

'Ordinary steak and chips won't do for one of my all-time heroes

0:35:130:35:16

'so I'm making a delicious cote de boeuf bearnaise.

0:35:160:35:20

'Here's hoping Sir Stirling is impressed.'

0:35:200:35:23

Now somebody told me one of your favourite things was steak and chips when you were out and about.

0:35:230:35:27

-Yes.

-Because you travelled all over the place, didn't you, when you were racing?

-Yes.

0:35:270:35:32

-America, all over the place.

-Yeah. Literally.

0:35:320:35:35

Steak and chips, wonderful.

0:35:350:35:37

-I've got here for you your favourite, I believe.

-Oh, beautiful.

0:35:370:35:41

-Look at that.

-A rib or cote de boeuf.

-Yes. Beautiful.

0:35:410:35:44

You're not going to cover it in garlic, are you?

0:35:440:35:46

No, I'm not, cos you don't like garlic, do you?

0:35:460:35:48

Garlic is where you cover up a mess,

0:35:480:35:51

-as far as I'm concerned. I don't like garlic.

-All right.

0:35:510:35:54

There's no garlic, all right? So what we're going to do,

0:35:540:35:56

we're going to take our steak and put it on our tray.

0:35:560:35:58

-Now how do you like your steak cooked?

-Medium, please.

-Medium.

-Yes.

-OK.

-English medium.

-English medium,

0:35:580:36:03

-what does that mean?

-English medium to me is normal medium.

0:36:030:36:07

-French medium is less cooked than I'd like.

-Right.

0:36:070:36:10

-American is probably more cooked than I'd like.

-So English medium?

-Yes.

0:36:100:36:15

I've got a big pressure here, you see.

0:36:150:36:16

I thought I was going to be... This is my domain here. You're stressing me out now!

0:36:160:36:20

'To avoid an American medium, I'm putting

0:36:200:36:23

'it into the oven at 160 degrees centigrade for half an hour.

0:36:230:36:27

'While that's cooking I can make the bearnaise sauce to go with it.

0:36:270:36:31

'Don't worry, Stirling, there's no garlic.'

0:36:310:36:34

I can't believe I've got you opposite me learning how to cook.

0:36:340:36:38

-I'll do you deal. If this steak turns out all right, can you teach me how to drive?

-I'll have a go.

0:36:380:36:42

Bearnaise is always done with butter, lots of it.

0:36:420:36:45

Which would kind of ruin a current racing driver's diet, wouldn't it?

0:36:450:36:49

-Yes, it would, wouldn't it?

-Nowadays you have food coaches, anything else?

0:36:490:36:52

-Nobody taught you that?

-No. I couldn't afford all that.

0:36:520:36:55

That's why at the end of a race I'd always

0:36:550:36:58

go round waving at the crowd so that the organiser would think,

0:36:580:37:01

"Well, he's really popular, we must have him back next year."

0:37:010:37:04

-So that's the key, you just go round waving at everybody?

-Exactly.

0:37:040:37:08

Now what you do with the butter is what we call "clarify" it.

0:37:080:37:10

-We bring it to the boil and we just leave that to simmer for about two minutes. All right.

-Right.

0:37:100:37:15

'I'm using 300g of butter.

0:37:150:37:18

'Clarifying it means the heated milk solids will separate out

0:37:180:37:22

'leaving behind a clear golden liquid that I'll use later.

0:37:220:37:26

'Then I put some chopped shallots into a pan with white peppercorns and some tarragon vinegar,

0:37:260:37:31

'although white wine vinegar will work just as well.'

0:37:310:37:35

And we're going to throw in some tarragon now. Smell that.

0:37:370:37:40

-Yeah.

-It goes really well with chicken, but it goes REALLY well with steak.

0:37:420:37:46

'Once tarragon leaves are added to the vinegar mixture the whole lot

0:37:460:37:50

'is boiled for a couple of minutes.'

0:37:500:37:52

So what was the defining moment for you, then,

0:37:520:37:54

when you were growing up and said, "I'm going to be a racing driver?"

0:37:540:37:58

I started just sprints and stuff when I was 17.

0:37:580:38:02

Then John Heath, a chap called John Heath, ran a team

0:38:020:38:06

and he said, "I'm going to race in Europe, would you like to join me?"

0:38:060:38:10

But every week we'd go somewhere new. Incredible life.

0:38:100:38:14

'It was definitely the kind of job I dreamed of when I was a nipper.

0:38:140:38:19

'But back to real life and bearnaise sauce.

0:38:190:38:22

'My next job is to whisk up two egg yolks in a bowl,

0:38:220:38:25

'then skim the foam off the top of the clarified butter

0:38:250:38:29

'and slowly add on to the egg yolks.

0:38:290:38:32

'But be careful not to tip the milk solids from the bottom of the pan.'

0:38:320:38:36

-Do you always do that by hand? You wouldn't use an electric one?

-No.

0:38:360:38:41

-You can see it better.

-It's much more entertaining like that.

0:38:410:38:45

It is much more entertaining. Thanks.

0:38:450:38:46

'When the egg yolks and clarified butter have thickened just

0:38:480:38:51

'stir in the vinegar reduction and add some extra chopped tarragon.'

0:38:510:38:55

Now the 1950s, particularly 1955, was a famous year for you.

0:38:570:39:02

-And particularly one race, the Mille Miglia.

-Yeah, the Mille Miglia.

-This is a thousand mile road race

0:39:020:39:06

-through Italy.

-Yeah.

-What on earth do you eat in 1,000 miles?

0:39:060:39:10

-I ate a banana.

-The entire way?

-Just one banana.

0:39:100:39:14

Yeah. I wanted an orange as well

0:39:140:39:16

but by the time we peeled the orange, it was black.

0:39:160:39:19

-This was Jenkinson?

-Yes.

-Who was your co-driver?

0:39:190:39:22

Who was three times world champion in the sidecar.

0:39:220:39:24

I take it that was the brake dust and everything else off the road?

0:39:240:39:27

Yes, the inboard brakes.

0:39:270:39:29

I wasn't going to eat that so I threw that out and all

0:39:290:39:32

he had left then was a banana.

0:39:320:39:34

'Thankfully, there's more than a banana on the menu today.

0:39:340:39:38

'And as far as I'm concerned nothing goes better with steak than

0:39:380:39:41

'crispy chips.'

0:39:410:39:43

I presume you like medium size chips, not skinny ones.

0:39:430:39:48

Yeah, no, whichever way.

0:39:480:39:50

-A chip is a chip.

-A chip is a chip.

0:39:500:39:52

I'm more stressing about the beef in there. You've got me worried about this beef.

0:39:520:39:55

'For me, the secret of good chips is to cook them

0:39:580:40:00

'in a mixture of beef dripping and vegetable oil.

0:40:000:40:03

'To make them extra crispy, I blanch them first.'

0:40:040:40:07

-Blanching means to cook without colour.

-Ah.

0:40:090:40:12

Basically the oil is quite low. It's about 140 degrees centigrade.

0:40:120:40:17

'The chips will need to be blanched for about four to five minutes.

0:40:180:40:22

'Then I take them out and turn the heat up to 190 degrees Celsius.

0:40:220:40:27

'While the fat is warming up I can check the steak.'

0:40:270:40:30

That's about medium. It's not far off.

0:40:300:40:33

We'll just leave that in the oven for about another five minutes.

0:40:330:40:36

So that's going to go in there.

0:40:360:40:38

And then all we've got to do now is just finish off our chips.

0:40:380:40:42

'These just take three to four minutes to crisp up nicely in hot oil.

0:40:420:40:45

'Then it's time to seal the steak in a generous amount of butter.'

0:40:460:40:51

Now at this moment in time we can start to season this with some salt...

0:40:540:40:58

-Right.

-..black pepper.

-You're not cooking it actually for very long, are you?

0:40:580:41:03

No, literally in, nice bit of colour on it, and out.

0:41:030:41:07

-And that's sufficiently cooked now, is it?

-Well, hopefully it is.

0:41:070:41:12

I do feel under pressure, mind,

0:41:120:41:15

whether it's an English medium or an American medium, whatever you

0:41:150:41:19

decide to call it. A bit of watercress to go with it.

0:41:190:41:22

That's just decoration, though, isn't it?

0:41:220:41:24

-The watercress?

-Just decoration.

0:41:240:41:26

-You can eat it if you want.

-Yeah.

-Do you want it on there or not?

-No, no, no. I don't mind.

0:41:260:41:30

I would push it to the side. Make more room for the meat.

0:41:300:41:34

-And then we'll slice this, shall we, see what it's like.

-Fingers crossed.

0:41:370:41:41

Fingers crossed.

0:41:410:41:42

-Beautiful.

-Yes. You see.

-Beautiful, yes. Am I going to get to eat a bit of that?

0:41:450:41:49

-Yeah, it's coming. It's coming, it's coming, it's coming.

-I'm not hurrying...

0:41:490:41:53

-It's coming, it's coming.

-..just making sure you've got enough.

0:41:530:41:56

'All that's left to do now is serve up the bearnaise sauce

0:41:560:41:59

'and pile up the chips on the side.'

0:41:590:42:01

-There you go. It's not really a plate, it's a board of food.

-Yes. Fit for a king.

0:42:030:42:07

Fit for a king, I reckon fit for a legend.

0:42:070:42:09

Legend is often overused in this world

0:42:090:42:12

-but they don't get any bigger than you, do they, really?

-Well, thank you very much.

0:42:120:42:15

-They don't get any bigger than this steak and chips.

-No.

0:42:150:42:18

-Thank you.

-I'll cut you a piece of steak so you can have a taste of this.

0:42:180:42:22

It looks lovely.

0:42:220:42:24

Mm.

0:42:280:42:29

-Super.

-Nice, though, isn't it?

-Mm. Beautiful bearnaise.

0:42:320:42:35

'Sir Stirling's right.

0:42:370:42:38

'Who needs garlic and watercress when you have got delicious steak

0:42:380:42:42

'and chips in front of you?

0:42:420:42:43

'It just goes to show that nothing beats simply prepared dishes

0:42:430:42:47

'that are jam-packed with hearty old-fashioned flavours.

0:42:470:42:51

'How's that for a taste of home?

0:42:510:42:53

'You can find all the recipes for the series at...'

0:42:560:43:01

-Happy with that?

-Mm.

-It's not bad, is it?

-No.

0:43:030:43:05

If ever you're in town and you want to cook some, let me know. You can borrow my kitchen.

0:43:050:43:09

-Oh, right! I'll come round to your house and cook for you!

-Yeah.

-All right. OK.

0:43:090:43:12

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