East London Len and Ainsley's Big Food Adventure


East London

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What you got going on here? Ham, egg and chips?

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Great British food.

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'As a chef, food is my life.'

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Lovely. Uh-hum. Ah-ha-ha-ha!

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Don't try that at home!

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'But as far as my mate Len goes, we're on a different planet.'

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My rules are this - never eat anything you can't spell

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and never eat anything you wouldn't want to step in.

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THEY LAUGH

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-This is the chicken's feet.

-Chicken's feet?

-That's right.

-No.

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'I've travelled the world,

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'but never had the courage to experience new cuisines

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'and always stuck with what I know.'

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-Look, what's your favourites here?

-Chips.

-Chips?

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'But after using a pancake once to wipe me face...'

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What is he like!

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'..me family said enough was enough

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'and that my taste buds needed to be brought into the 21st century.'

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Hot!

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There's a lot more to this culinary world of ours than pickled walnuts.

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'It's time for me to show Len a whole new culinary world...'

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-I'm going to do it.

-'..that will make his palate purr.'

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-You're not talking food adventure?

-Food adventure indeed!

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-Ho-ho!

-Ho-ho!

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What is that I see - is it a tandoori chicken?

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-I liked it.

-And that's all I need to know.

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For the last decade, I've been a judge on Strictly Come Dancing.

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London born-and-bred 71 years ago,

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my taste buds have been influenced by my nan's cooking.

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I've never eaten spaghetti, had a curry and even pizza -

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well, looks a bit exotic.

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I was also born and brought up in London but as a chef, my palate has

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experienced and travelled to every part of the globe.

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Over the last 20 years, there has been a food explosion across Britain

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and now, no matter what you desire, every cuisine is catered for.

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For me, I have ten favourites that are never far away

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from the table at home. And my perfect dinner?

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Well, prawn cocktail to start,

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full English breakfast - oh, and a jam roly-poly!

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Oh! It's food heaven!

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My mission during our time together is to educate his taste buds

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and see if I can replace anything on the ten-from-Len board

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and show him that there's more to life than a prawn cocktail from 1976.

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Today, we've rolled into one of my old stomping grounds -

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the East End of London. I've got me elastic-waistband trousers on

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and for once, I might try and throw a few surprises Ainsley's way.

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Cheers, mate! And on today's menu, I throw Len a Vietnamese surprise.

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Now where did they come from?

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It's the Phantom of the Deep!

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THEY LAUGH

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'We tuck into a few childhood memories.'

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This is delicious.

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'And I'm going to coax him and the local East Enders into trying a brand-new dish

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'inspired by today's foodie adventures.'

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-What do you think? Tell the truth!

-Absolutely lovely.

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And that's a man who knows a thing or two!

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As part of a great international city, the East End of London

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is celebrated for the wide range of social backgrounds it represents.

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Historically, it's always contained some of the poorest areas of London, playing host to a transient

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community - primarily new immigrants, but over the years this melting pot

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of people have created an urban jungle as rich in culture as it is diverse.

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Do you know what, Len? There's a bit of a buzz in the air.

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-There's a bit of energy about this place. London, your home town.

-Yeah.

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-How does it feel?

-It's wonderful and do you know, I lived the first eight years of my life

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not more than half a mile from here and we used to come up here all the time.

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And you probably knew everybody as a nipper. All that type of stuff going on.

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All the doors were open, you know.

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You could go in anyone's house down my road.

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It was like a village, in a way.

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Yeah, I understand that.

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-And gradually, you know, everyone moved out, as did my family.

-Yeah.

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And then, you know, other people moved in, so...

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-Do you miss it, then?

-Yeah, I do miss it, really.

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Yeah, it was great.

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There is something really comforting about going back

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somewhere, even if it's changed a bit. There must be something familiar here for you.

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Oh, well, it's all familiar, you know. Nothing's changed

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but everything's changed, you know what I mean?

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But it's great. I love it.

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As I said, there's a real buzz around here. There's energy,

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people coming and going, trains noise.

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-It makes you feel alive.

-Yeah, yeah.

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-What was it like shopping around here in those days?

-Well, I mean everyone knew everybody.

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We had greengrocers' shops, so we'd go take a few apples and pears and this and that into one shop

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-and he'd give us a few sausages and a pork chop.

-Beautiful.

-And that's how everything worked.

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And I suppose you could say, "I'll pay you next week",

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or "I'll pay you at the end of the month", something like that.

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-A lot of trust.

-Not in my grandfather's shop, there wasn't!

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There wasn't? Really? Was he a bit tight?

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-Yeah!

-Does it run in the family!

-No, of course not!

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There's so much food choice around here,

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we could eat anything, but I've decided to start with a cuisine

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I know has never passed Len's lips, Vietnamese.

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Our Oriental adventures start in the borough of Hackney,

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home to London's buzzing Vietnamese restaurant scene.

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Of the estimated 55,000 Vietnamese people currently

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based in Britain, around 30% of 'em live right here.

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Most sought refuge in 1979 in the aftermath of the Vietnamese war

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but a large proportion gravitated towards London,

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forming a bustling community.

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Now around a third of London's Vietnamese population

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work in the hotel and restaurant industry.

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And with over 20 Vietnamese restaurants

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right here on Kingsland Road,

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what better place to bring Len for his first bite of the day?

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This part of London has changed a lot since Len was a nipper,

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so he may find things a little unfamiliar.

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To ease him in, I think I might give him

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a bit of a clue to our first foodie location.

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Did you ever see that film Good Morning, Vietnam?

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-I did, Robin Williams.

-Wasn't it brilliant?

-Brilliant.

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Did you ever look at it and think to yourself,

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"God, I'd like to visit a place like that"?

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Well, I would like to visit those exotic places but they're

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always so far away and, to be honest, I've never fancied the food.

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My whole life has been based around trying to

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look at food in a different way, bringing all these wonderful

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flavours globally together, bringing all these flavours together

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and then, when they're blended and when you've got these recipes

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that have been matured over many, many generations, Len, it just

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kind of excites me and that's what I want to share with you.

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Are there chips involved?

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I suppose I could find a portion of chips. Come on.

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This award-winning restaurant has been serving traditional

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Vietnamese cuisine to the locals since 2002.

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Song Que caff prides itself on creating authentic dishes,

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specialising in pho,

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a slow-cooked noodle broth infused with fragrant herbs and spices.

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I think it's about time Len experienced this century-old

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uniquely classic Vietnamese dish,

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-so I've brought him to meet the lovely family who run this place.

-Hi.

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-Nice to meet you, this is Len.

-Hello.

-Hi, Charlene.

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Hello, Charlene, Ainsley.

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Sisters Charlene and Joanne are here to greet us.

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-I'm going to have a bit of a chat.

-See you later.

-See you later.

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This is a true family business,

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because the person responsible for the seriously delicious aromas

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emanating from that kitchen is none other than Charlene's mum Anh.

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Oh, the smell in here, the smell is fantastic. Hey, how are you?

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-I'm fine, thanks.

-Yeah, goody-good.

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I can't believe all these ingredients. What are you making?

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-Mum's making the traditional pho.

-Yeah.

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-You can see here, this stock with all the beef bones.

-Yeah.

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The most important thing is the amount of bones you put in it,

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so the more bones, the more sweetness of the flavours comes out.

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Yeah. Gives it an intensity, I should imagine.

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Yeah, and, I mean, every different region's...

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They use different spices, different amounts of spices that makes

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-the depths of the pho different.

-The smell's absolutely lovely.

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It's amazing that we're only half a mile from the City of London,

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we've just come a little bit east,

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there's so many Vietnamese restaurants in this area.

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Why is that?

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Well, it started off with just a few restaurants and then more people

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came and invested and it just grew to be known as the Vietnamese road.

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The food that you prepare and serve here, is it traditional

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Vietnamese or do you just change it slightly for the English palate?

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-I think my parents stuck to the authentic.

-Yeah?

-Yeah.

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So if I went to Ho Chi Minh, I'd get the same food, more or less.

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More or less the same.

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Pho is a complex dish that has layers of depth and spices.

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So today we're going to use seven spices.

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-Yeah, you've got the star anise.

-Yeah, some cardamom, cinnamon bark.

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Cinnamon bark, yeah.

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Coriander seeds, roasted pepper, with the roasted ginger and onions.

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-So you put these on the grill, yeah?

-Yeah.

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To get a lovely sort of flavour.

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It kind of sweats the onions and the ginger

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and gives out the flavours of the ginger and shallots.

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Did you grow up with this type of food?

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Yes, I grew up with it since I was really young,

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like every week Dad would make a pho on Friday

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and we were probably eating it for three days, Friday to Sunday.

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Oh, wow! So it actually lasts. Once you boil it up, it just...

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Yeah, it lasts and the longer you leave it, I mean, there's just more

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depth in the pho, it just tastes even better the longer you leave it.

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-Beautiful.

-I've got some photos to show you.

-Oh, right.

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This is your mum and dad.

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-This is in this restaurant back when it opened in 2002.

-Fantastic.

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This is my mum between my grandparents

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and my aunties as well as my cousins at the front.

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-Right, and this is taken in Vietnam?

-Yup.

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And were you born in Vietnam or was you born here?

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-All three of us, my siblings and I, we were born here.

-Right.

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So what's she doing now, then?

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So after it comes off the grill, you just place it into this net here.

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Yeah. Do you know, once you warm things like ginger

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and everything else, it's so...

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so wonderful. Lovely, now what happens, then?

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So Mum's just going to add the spices, star anise, cardamom...

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I love the idea of those peppercorns being roasted,

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that must give it such an intense flavour, that.

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It's almost like an infuser. You get the old-style sort of tea.

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-Like teabags.

-When you just pop the tea inside. Yeah.

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And look at that. What's that called in Vietnamese?

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-In Vietnamese, it's called chai kow.

-Chai

-kow? Chai kow, yeah.

-Chai kow.

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Look at that. Can I just have a look at that?

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That is brilliant, look at all those beautiful herbs and spices in there.

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It's almost like you could shake them up.

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And you can, like, sort of smell it already.

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So that goes into the soup for 20 minutes

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and then it's ready to serve.

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Fantastic, I'm looking forward to seeing that.

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-I've never tried Vietnamese food at all.

-OK, you should.

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Yeah. Is it similar to Chinese food?

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China and Vietnam is quite close, so there are aspects that are similar.

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So we sell some Chinese dishes here but, Vietnamese food,

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I feel that it's quite lighter. Some dishes is quite lighter.

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Well, it will be coming out any second now, I'm going

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to try a bit of Vietnamese food. Oh, come on!

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-Ready to serve up now?

-Yes, we're ready to serve.

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Great, I'm looking forward to this.

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We've got the noodles, we've got all of these wonderful different types of

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meat, which means you get different textures going on in the bowl.

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-And different flavours too.

-And what have got here?

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-We've got some tripe and tendon.

-OK.

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-We've got flank and rare steak.

-Wow.

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-This is the tripe?

-Yeah.

-I don't think Len's ever had tripe before.

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He might find it like elastic bands.

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I think he's going to think it's a bunch of elastic band, he really is.

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-We've got this stock here going on.

-Oh, it smells absolutely lovely.

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-Right, this is for Len.

-All right, then.

-It's all ready.

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Wow, this looks good.

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-All of this goes with it?

-Yes, all of it.

-Thank you very much, Mum.

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-Thank you, Mum.

-This was really, really brilliant.

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The smell is fantastic, just wonder what Len's going to think.

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Oh!

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Now, this has been lovingly prepared for you, Len, look at that.

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-Beef pho.

-Beef pho, yeah.

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And you know you can have it with tofu, you can have it with

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chicken, you can have it with seafood, isn't that right, girls?

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-Yeah.

-And this is beef?

-And this is beef.

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So it's got different types of beef in there.

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You've got the shank in there, you've got the tendon in there,

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you've got some nice rare bits of beef in there

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-and you got a bit of tripe.

-Tripe?!

-THEY LAUGH

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-I'm swerving that.

-This is basil, this is like a kind of...

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-I know basil.

-Different type of basil, though, Len.

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This is the sweet basil.

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-Some bean sprouts.

-A few bean sprouts, a few chillies.

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-Go easy on them.

-No, I will do.

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You can't have soup with chopsticks. That's lud... Now you are talking...

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Unless they're straws.

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Are they hollow? Suck away.

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AINSLEY CHUCKLES

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What are you like?

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I think all of Len's joking around is what's known as delaying tactics.

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Go for it, try that lovely little...broth.

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-No, just straight into your gob, I think.

-Some noodles in here too.

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Where? Oh, yeah, I don't want any of that tripe.

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Now, where did they come from? It's the phantom of the deep.

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Where did they come out of?

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-Lovely.

-Just going to try the broth.

-The broth is the best part ,I think.

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-Now, the broth is nice.

-Isn't it lovely?

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It's got like a slightly peppery taste to it.

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The peppercorns, they roast them off, so you get that lovely flavour

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-coming through.

-Now, this beef looks nice, actually, lean.

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-It's nice.

-Take it or leave it or you quite like that flavour?

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I like it.

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'So far, so good.'

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-What about a little bit of tripe, then?

-No.

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-Honestly, Len, I wouldn't lie to you.

-I swear to you...

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I wouldn't let you eat something if you'd think it was awful.

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-Give me a small bit.

-Oh, God...

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No, that's huge!

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All right, all right, don't frighten me, it's a bit of tripe.

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Have another fish in there.

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What about this small piece of tripe, then?

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Ah!

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That's it, go on, then. Little bit of soup.

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Yeah, OK, give us a chance, I'm looking at it first.

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'Never in my life did I think I'd give tripe a go.'

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I'm going to go for it.

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'But you get nothing in life if you don't give it a try.'

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Gristly, isn't it?

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It's chewy, yeah, but it's like...nothing else,

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just a bit of tripe.

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-Not up your street?

-Not at all.

-Well done.

-I did try it, didn't I?

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Well done for trying it.

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Len, I'm always proud of the fact that you try it. I really am.

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What a treat.

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Your mum was a revelation in the kitchen,

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just the way she cooked and the love comes out in the food.

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-A bit of tendon, do you fancy a bit of tendon?

-I will not eat the tendon.

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I've done the tripe, all right?

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-Thank you, girls. What do you say?

-Yo.

-Yo.

-Yo.

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-Yo, baby.

-Yo, baby.

-Yo.

-Yo, yo.

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Well, I gave it a go and I think I was quite adventurous.

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But, Ainsley, I think pho is more up your street.

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Vietnamese food isn't just about pho,

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there are many other delicacies that are just as important

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when it comes to understanding this wonderful cuisine.

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You could try a crispy, savoury Vietnamese pancake.

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This can be filled with an abundance of gorgeous ingredients,

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including prawns and chicken served with a side of fresh herbs.

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So, so tasty.

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Or what about this classic?

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Marinated skewers of grilled pork and sliced spring onions

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and rice vermicelli served with an Asian chopped salad,

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nuts and crispy fried onions for, oh, extra deliciousness.

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Or, if red meat is your thing, how about grilled beef wrapped in leaves

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served with a wonderful fresh herbs sprinkled with nuts for crunchiness?

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Simply mouthwatering.

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And, finally, for a more exotic bite,

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you could try spicy soft-shell crab

0:16:250:16:28

fried whole then mixed with chilli, spring onions and garlic.

0:16:280:16:32

Oh! Sheer loveliness.

0:16:320:16:34

So the first taste of the day took Len completely

0:16:420:16:45

out of his comfort zone but, after all, that is what I'm here for.

0:16:450:16:49

So our next port of call on today's food tour is rather more

0:16:490:16:52

familiar to him.

0:16:520:16:53

Just a hop, skip and jump away is the famous Spitalfields Market,

0:16:590:17:03

a place Len knows well.

0:17:030:17:04

You're not wrong, Ains, my old manor.

0:17:050:17:08

It's hard to imagine now

0:17:100:17:11

but Spitalfields used to be a rural area until the Great Fire of London

0:17:110:17:15

swept through the city in 1666 and changed everything.

0:17:150:17:20

By this time, market traders had started

0:17:210:17:24

operating beyond the city gates on this very site.

0:17:240:17:28

And in 1682, King Charles II granted a silk thrower called John Balch

0:17:280:17:33

a royal charter giving him the right to hold a market right here.

0:17:330:17:39

In the late 1800s, a new building was erected

0:17:400:17:42

and the market began to take shape as the place we recognise today.

0:17:420:17:46

Len, do you get happy memories when you come back to here?

0:17:500:17:54

Ainsley, when I was 15 and I first left school, I had four months with

0:17:540:17:58

nothing to do and I came and worked as a porter here in Spitalfields.

0:17:580:18:02

-How much did you get paid there?

-Oh, about two quid a week.

0:18:020:18:04

-Was it really?

-Humping hundred-weight sacks of potatoes.

0:18:040:18:07

-And all week, it's unbelievable.

-Unbelievable, isn't it, now?

0:18:070:18:10

Couldn't buy a cup of coffee.

0:18:100:18:11

And was it a great atmosphere down here?

0:18:110:18:13

Wonderful, wonderful, you know, so much fun.

0:18:130:18:16

-I think you're taught about a few values of life, though.

-That's right.

0:18:160:18:19

And, of course, before that, I was always coming here with either

0:18:190:18:22

-me grandad or me uncles, yeah.

-What about the history of this place?

0:18:220:18:26

Spitalfields, have you got any memory of that?

0:18:260:18:29

Yeah, it was originally an area where there was a ho-SPITAL and

0:18:290:18:33

gradually that got changed to Spital, it was Hospital Field.

0:18:330:18:38

-And then it became Spitalfields.

-Wow.

0:18:380:18:41

And my ancestors were silk weavers and they set up

0:18:410:18:47

here in Spitalfields, this is where they worked.

0:18:470:18:50

So we go back...blood in me goes back

0:18:500:18:53

-300 years to this area.

-Wow.

-Eh?

0:18:530:18:57

-Come on, let's check out the food in here.

-Come on.

0:18:570:19:00

This market has changed so much since I was a nipper

0:19:030:19:06

and worked here.

0:19:060:19:07

The fruit and veg stalls have been replaced with fashion

0:19:070:19:11

-and the thing that gets Ainsley jumping is the street food.

-Len.

0:19:110:19:14

-What?

-You've got to smell this, look at that.

0:19:140:19:18

Turkish. Turkish Wrap House.

0:19:180:19:20

And the beautiful meat and, again, you know,

0:19:200:19:22

-all the spices.

-I can smell it.

0:19:220:19:23

-Yeah.

-Just put a tiny little piece on there, Miss.

-Oh!

0:19:230:19:28

Oh!

0:19:290:19:30

-Look at this, Len, eh?

-Eh?

0:19:300:19:32

-Oh, lovely.

-It's lovely.

0:19:350:19:38

-That's lovely, thank you so much.

-You're welcome.

-Hot and spicy.

0:19:380:19:42

Vietnamese-style stuff going on here.

0:19:420:19:44

You didn't have that in your old day, though, did you?

0:19:440:19:46

Of course not, no.

0:19:460:19:48

-Basically we had fish and chips and pie and mash.

-That was it.

0:19:480:19:51

-That was it, I think.

-Look at this.

0:19:510:19:53

What type of people come here now, is it very varied?

0:19:530:19:55

Yeah, yeah, diverse, different people,

0:19:550:19:57

different cultures and stuff.

0:19:570:19:59

Delicious, yeah.

0:19:590:20:00

-I'll not put all put that in a bit of tissue paper.

-No, no, no.

0:20:000:20:03

-Cheers, mate.

-Cheers, mate.

0:20:030:20:04

There's one type of food served here

0:20:080:20:10

that's a real taste of Len's childhood.

0:20:100:20:13

That's Jewish cuisine.

0:20:130:20:15

Now you're talking, Ainsley!

0:20:150:20:17

I was brought up in a Jewish neighbourhood,

0:20:170:20:20

so, salt beef and bagels were as familiar as egg and chips.

0:20:200:20:25

Around 150,000 Jewish immigrants settled in Britain from the

0:20:250:20:30

late 19th century,

0:20:300:20:31

with the majority flocking to London's East End,

0:20:310:20:34

setting up shops, theatres and over 40 synagogues.

0:20:340:20:38

And from the 1880s to the 1970s,

0:20:380:20:41

Spitalfields was one of the largest Jewish areas in Europe.

0:20:410:20:45

The vibrant community that grew and flourished here

0:20:480:20:50

left their mark, not only on the culture and architecture,

0:20:500:20:54

but also on the food.

0:20:540:20:55

Nana Fanny's has been serving up salt beef bagels since 1944.

0:20:570:21:02

Oh, yes, folks, the year I was welcomed into the world.

0:21:020:21:06

Nana Fanny would slow cook rich, briny brisket and make

0:21:060:21:10

sandwiches for the stall holders in the nearby Brick Lane Market.

0:21:100:21:14

Oh, Len, what a smell. What a smell. Hello, mate.

0:21:140:21:17

Hi, how are you doing?

0:21:170:21:20

Today, Fanny's grandson, Ivan, runs the business.

0:21:200:21:23

The recipe for his grandmother's salt beef

0:21:230:21:25

is a closely guarded family secret

0:21:250:21:27

and I tell you, I can't wait to get stuck in!

0:21:270:21:31

Len, I bet you this brings back some memories.

0:21:310:21:33

-Let me tell you. Salt beef...

-Yeah.

0:21:330:21:36

Have you been here long, Ivan?

0:21:360:21:38

Well, my grandmother taught me and that's going back to '44.

0:21:380:21:42

Year I was born.

0:21:420:21:44

The year you were born. Young man.

0:21:440:21:47

I need to make him a bagel. Can I come round there, Ivan?

0:21:470:21:49

I'm going to go round and have a bit of a...

0:21:490:21:51

Hello, sorry to crush your space here, mate!

0:21:510:21:53

-Oh, this is brilliant. Do you mind, Ivan?

-No, not at all.

0:21:530:21:56

Yes, sir, what can I do for you?

0:21:560:21:58

-Let me find out. Is it brisket?

-It's brisket.

0:21:580:22:01

How long is it salted for?

0:22:010:22:03

We keep that in the brine for about three weeks.

0:22:030:22:06

It is about four hours cooking.

0:22:060:22:08

Oh, look at this. It's just lovely, absolutely.

0:22:080:22:11

I don't even know if he wants the bagel.

0:22:110:22:13

I think he's going to be straight into that.

0:22:130:22:16

-I will have a little bit of salt beef.

-Yeah.

0:22:160:22:18

What do you think of that, Len?

0:22:180:22:19

This is delicious.

0:22:220:22:24

Do you know what it is? As we walk up and down here,

0:22:240:22:27

there's so many outlets now.

0:22:270:22:28

Yes, it's the new thing in the markets.

0:22:280:22:30

A wonderful draw for everybody.

0:22:300:22:32

Len, would you like gherkin and mustard?

0:22:320:22:35

Gherkin and mustard, 100%.

0:22:350:22:38

What a piece of meat this is! Look at this.

0:22:400:22:44

-Absolutely lovely.

-That's nice.

-Oh, lovely, lovely.

0:22:440:22:46

-You just want to eat it.

-Len, enjoy.

0:22:460:22:50

Ivan, Len used to get £2 a week. How much would you pay me an hour?

0:22:500:22:55

-I'd pay you the same. £2 a week!

-Here you are!

0:22:550:22:58

-Ivan, thanks a lot, Ivan.

-Thanks, guys!

0:22:590:23:04

Cheers, mate!

0:23:040:23:06

That was lovely. Proper food!

0:23:060:23:08

Len, I've got to say, I was watching you. There's a little

0:23:130:23:16

bit of mustard on the corner of your mouth and you were biting

0:23:160:23:19

into that salt beef and you were licking your lips at the same time.

0:23:190:23:23

And the pickle. A bit of slap and tickle in there. Oh!

0:23:230:23:28

That was very special, wasn't it?

0:23:280:23:29

It's my type of food.

0:23:290:23:31

Let me ask you. Did you like the salt beef?

0:23:310:23:34

I'll tell you what, Len, between me and you...

0:23:360:23:39

Loved it!

0:23:410:23:43

Just up the road is a fourth generation local producer,

0:23:430:23:46

using modern methods for the most traditional Jewish delicacies

0:23:460:23:50

and one that used to be a real Christmas treat - smoked salmon.

0:23:500:23:54

Smoked salmon was a Jewish staple and very much still is today.

0:23:560:24:02

The salmon goes into the kiln on one side and 24 hours later,

0:24:020:24:05

it comes out on the other side.

0:24:050:24:07

H. Foreman and Son was established in 1905 by Harry Forman,

0:24:070:24:11

an immigrant from Odessa in the Crimea, who started smoking salmon.

0:24:110:24:16

It's now in the hands of great-grandson Lance.

0:24:160:24:18

The business has always been based in the east end of London.

0:24:180:24:21

A lot of people think that smoked salmon is this ancient

0:24:210:24:23

Scottish tradition, but it was the fish that came from Scotland.

0:24:230:24:27

They came down to London and it was in the east end of London

0:24:270:24:31

where the salmon was smoked.

0:24:310:24:34

This is what we use to smoke the fish.

0:24:340:24:37

It's a log of oak.

0:24:370:24:38

It is absolutely pure. You know exactly what it is.

0:24:380:24:43

Smoked salmon was introduced into fine dining and to chefs

0:24:430:24:46

and restaurants and delicatessen and it took off as this

0:24:460:24:49

great gourmet food.

0:24:490:24:50

That would've been around the 1920s,

0:24:500:24:52

early part of the 20th century.

0:24:520:24:56

In the spring of the 2015, H. Foreman became London's

0:24:560:25:01

first food and drink company to be awarded PGI protection

0:25:010:25:06

for its London-cured smoked Scottish salmon.

0:25:060:25:08

Oh, smoked salmon, brown bread, oh, lovely jubbly!

0:25:080:25:14

Now, I know Ainsley is supposed to be in charge of this culinary

0:25:190:25:22

adventure, but this is my neck of the woods and I know these streets.

0:25:220:25:27

And one of my favourite childhood eateries is just around the corner.

0:25:270:25:31

-Look at that.

-What?

0:25:310:25:33

I used to go in here as a kid with my grandad

0:25:330:25:36

60... more than 65 years ago!

0:25:360:25:38

-It's a pie and mash, Len.

-Come on, we'll have to go in!

0:25:380:25:41

Fantastic.

0:25:410:25:42

-Hello, mate, how are you doing!

-Hello, mate. Nice to see you.

0:25:430:25:46

-Nice to see you too!

-Nice to see you!

0:25:460:25:48

He's just dragged me in here. Is this the original pie and mash shop?

0:25:480:25:51

-The original.

-You must be in your element.

-Yeah.

0:25:510:25:53

What do you fancy?

0:25:530:25:55

-Pie and mash. Some eels?

-All right, then.

-Pie and mash and some eels.

0:25:550:25:58

This is yours, mate!

0:25:580:25:59

OK. If you'd like to grab a seat, I'll bring it over to you.

0:25:590:26:02

Bob, looking forward to this, Bob.

0:26:020:26:06

Pie and mash and eel shops have been an east London staple

0:26:060:26:10

since the 19th century and Bob's nan started this one in 1915.

0:26:100:26:14

Now, the secret to a traditional mince beef pie is a crispy top

0:26:170:26:21

with a pudding-y bottom, made by using two types of pastry,

0:26:210:26:25

short for the top and suet for the bottom.

0:26:250:26:28

And, of course, you've got to have mashed potato,

0:26:280:26:31

usually spread around one side of the plate

0:26:310:26:34

and topped with a vibrant green parsley sauce, called liquor.

0:26:340:26:39

The mash was originally sold as an accompaniment for the eels,

0:26:390:26:43

but people started to have it as a side with the pies,

0:26:430:26:47

and so pie and mash was born.

0:26:470:26:49

-Here it comes!

-Hey, hey!

0:26:490:26:52

I can't believe this is my first East End pie and mash.

0:26:520:26:54

-Is this the original liquor, Len?

-That's the liquor.

0:26:540:26:57

Wow! Look at this.

0:26:570:26:59

This is unbelievable. So, we take a little bit of the liquor...

0:26:590:27:02

Some people have it all over the top and everything.

0:27:020:27:04

Some have it swimming.

0:27:040:27:06

Oh, lovely. So how many years have you been here now?

0:27:060:27:08

-100 years.

-100 years!

0:27:080:27:10

My gran, she had five children and each of them opened pie shops

0:27:100:27:15

and carried on.

0:27:150:27:17

Do you remember this one, Len?

0:27:170:27:19

I do. My grandad used to have a greengrocers a bit further up

0:27:190:27:22

and when I was a little kid, I used to go with him to the market

0:27:220:27:26

and then on his way back, we used to come by, about eight o'clock-ish,

0:27:260:27:30

we'd either come in here, or the cafe up the road, a cafe.

0:27:300:27:34

-The other one must have been there 100 years or more.

-Yep, more.

0:27:340:27:38

So, has the menu changed much over the years?

0:27:380:27:40

-Not at all.

-Exactly the same?

0:27:400:27:42

They're made exactly the way my nan made them,

0:27:420:27:46

exactly the same recipe.

0:27:460:27:48

I bet you've got it written down in her handwriting, haven't you?

0:27:480:27:51

I have a book at home with my mum's cakes and stuff,

0:27:510:27:53

all written in her handwriting.

0:27:530:27:55

-She's been gone 20 odd years, but you never forget, though, do you?

-No.

0:27:550:27:58

How lovely. And what about these eels, then?

0:27:580:28:00

-I've just been eating eel.

-Yeah?

-Lovely!

0:28:000:28:03

The eels, everyone thinks they're British, but, in fact, it was

0:28:030:28:07

the Dutch that were responsible for that, wasn't it?

0:28:070:28:09

Something to do with the Great Fire of London.

0:28:090:28:11

Yeah, 1666, yeah. And, of course, London was obliterated

0:28:110:28:15

and there was not a lot of food about and the Dutch started bringing

0:28:150:28:19

them over and eventually, there was a royal charter

0:28:190:28:23

that the only eels came from the Dutch.

0:28:230:28:25

The first pie was an eel pie. Wasn't me! No.

0:28:250:28:29

-It was an eel and mash.

-Eel pie.

-Isn't that fascinating?

0:28:290:28:32

I didn't know that!

0:28:320:28:34

And that's why you've got the parsley sauce that goes with fish.

0:28:340:28:38

I didn't know that.

0:28:380:28:39

Now, in your heyday, how many pies would you get through in a week?

0:28:400:28:44

-Thousands!

-Really?

-Yeah.

0:28:440:28:48

-Thousands!

-In our heyday, yeah.

0:28:480:28:51

-'50s and '40s and so on.

-Yeah.

-During the war.

0:28:510:28:54

-During the war, all the pie shops got a meat allocation.

-Right.

0:28:540:28:59

So they could make pies to keep people fed.

0:28:590:29:03

And, of course, around here is the street where gangsters

0:29:030:29:05

Ronnie and Reggie Kray grew up.

0:29:050:29:08

-They used to come in here as kids.

-What? The Krays?

-Yep!

0:29:080:29:11

-Dad used to give them a clip round the earhole.

-Really?

0:29:110:29:14

Yeah. What they used to do when they were schoolkids,

0:29:140:29:17

-what all schoolkids do...

-Undo the vinegar

0:29:170:29:21

and just do that and wallop.

0:29:210:29:23

That was it. They'd get a clip round the ear,

0:29:230:29:25

they'd go home, tell their mum

0:29:250:29:27

and she'd give them a clip for doing it.

0:29:270:29:30

-Yeah.

-I mean, when the funerals passed by,

0:29:300:29:33

we had a phone call asking us if it would be convenient for them to stop

0:29:330:29:37

outside the shop for three minutes.

0:29:370:29:39

Wow, isn't that lovely? You've got all that history behind you.

0:29:390:29:43

You see, you boys, when you start talking about that,

0:29:430:29:47

there's something about having roots, isn't there?

0:29:470:29:49

My parents as immigrants came over, albeit in the '50s,

0:29:490:29:52

-but you guys, it's embedded. This is embedded in your soul.

-History.

0:29:520:29:56

Yeah, the history, so when you start talking about food,

0:29:560:29:59

I can so appreciate why he likes the traditional food,

0:29:590:30:01

because it's part of the history, it's in your body, ingrained.

0:30:010:30:05

I'll tell you what. It's been terrific to come back, reminisce.

0:30:050:30:10

Bring back me old taste buds. Cheers, mate.

0:30:100:30:13

Thanks very much, Len. Thanks very much.

0:30:130:30:16

You're not going to send the Krays after me, are you?

0:30:160:30:18

That would be a job, wouldn't it?

0:30:180:30:22

-An absolute pleasure.

-All the best.

-See you, mate. Ta-da. Thank you.

0:30:220:30:26

-How was that?

-Fantastic, Len.

-Bit of fun?

-That was brilliant. Loved that.

0:30:260:30:30

This area is not just known for its diverse and delicious grub,

0:30:350:30:39

it's also got quite a reputation for a certain drink. Gin.

0:30:390:30:44

Since being introduced to London 400 years ago,

0:30:440:30:47

gin has enjoyed a thriving and somewhat notorious trade.

0:30:470:30:52

During London's gin craze of 1700s, the city was full of distilleries

0:30:520:30:57

and breweries and many were concentrated here.

0:30:570:31:00

So it's surprising that for the past 100 years,

0:31:000:31:03

east London has had no spirit production.

0:31:030:31:06

But now, the East London Liquor Company

0:31:080:31:11

has come along to revive the local drinks industry.

0:31:110:31:14

We're the first distillery in east London,

0:31:140:31:16

to make whisky and gin in over 100 years.

0:31:160:31:20

The whole gin craze appears to be growing.

0:31:200:31:23

There are 100s of gin producers out there that put all sorts of weird

0:31:230:31:26

and wonderful things in their gin.

0:31:260:31:28

It's the quality of our raw ingredients that sets us apart.

0:31:280:31:31

Pretty much every gin in the world will have juniper, coriander,

0:31:310:31:34

angelica and a citrus fruit of some sort.

0:31:340:31:37

And beyond that, where you start to put in more signature flavours.

0:31:370:31:42

Signature flavours for the boys include pink grapefruit,

0:31:420:31:44

cardamom and cubeb, a member of the peppercorn family.

0:31:440:31:49

These are the juniper berries that we use to make our gin with.

0:31:490:31:52

It's very oily and has a very distinctive juniper aroma.

0:31:520:31:55

Juniper berries are the only thing, by law, that you have to add

0:31:550:31:58

in order for it to be called gin.

0:31:580:32:00

After that, you can let your imagination go wild.

0:32:000:32:04

The process is started when you add the ingredients

0:32:070:32:10

to the grain, spirit and water

0:32:100:32:12

Then we turn the mixer on.

0:32:150:32:18

As it heats up, the alcohol becomes a vapour and it takes with it

0:32:180:32:21

the flavour compounds from the chemicals.

0:32:210:32:24

Then we turn the steam on. This takes hot steam from these pipes

0:32:260:32:29

and starts to heat the mixture in this steam jacket down here.

0:32:290:32:33

After an hour and a half, the gin is ready for the bottle,

0:32:350:32:38

and, more importantly, for the drinking.

0:32:380:32:41

The kind of dream was to make something by locals for locals.

0:32:410:32:44

There's a kind of honesty to that.

0:32:440:32:46

You can come and watch us distil and we're really keen on debunking

0:32:460:32:49

the, sort of, myths that distilling is a dark art and there's secrets.

0:32:490:32:52

There are no secrets. There's a nice metaphor of that, of actually

0:32:520:32:56

sitting at bar, looking through the glass window and seeing us do it.

0:32:560:33:00

Just up the road is another artisan brewer,

0:33:080:33:10

who's breaking new ground with beer.

0:33:100:33:12

I think why the craft brewing industry has really taken hold

0:33:120:33:17

in the UK is because you've got a new demographic of drinker

0:33:170:33:20

and a new demographic of server that is passionately obsessed as we are

0:33:200:33:24

as brewers, about drinking and tasting and educating people.

0:33:240:33:29

Logan Plant set up the Beavertown Brewery in the basement

0:33:290:33:33

of the Duke's Brew & Que three years ago

0:33:330:33:35

with the aim of bringing a new wave of beer taste to the locals.

0:33:350:33:39

It was something I really wanted to try and recreate,

0:33:390:33:42

that vibe of big, stimulating beers, trying many different types

0:33:420:33:46

of recipe using different yeasts, hops and many different styles

0:33:460:33:49

and pairing them to foods.

0:33:490:33:52

We specifically started with the Rye IPA that went great

0:33:520:33:54

with the pork.

0:33:540:33:56

You get the spicy earthy tones of the rye and the smoked porter,

0:33:560:33:59

called Smog Rocket, which goes great with the beef ribs.

0:33:590:34:03

You get a molasses char burnt smokiness.

0:34:030:34:05

For Logan and his mate Nick Dwyer, the designer names of the beers

0:34:050:34:09

may be out of this world, but there's a method to the madness.

0:34:090:34:12

Most of it comes from talking to Logan about what he wants,

0:34:120:34:15

what he's been reading about, what I've been reading about.

0:34:150:34:18

We read a lot of graphic novels and comic books and things like that

0:34:180:34:21

and he does a lot of reading around spiritual things.

0:34:210:34:23

He's obsessed with the Knights Templar and illuminati-type

0:34:230:34:27

things, which is where the big triangle B comes from.

0:34:270:34:30

Cans provide the perfect visual platform for artwork

0:34:300:34:34

and Nick's kind of nailed that.

0:34:340:34:36

Gamma Ray is called Gamma Ray because the first time we brewed it,

0:34:360:34:39

it was in the light and it was bright orange, as a lot of beer is.

0:34:390:34:43

We were taken aback about how it was.

0:34:430:34:45

The new wave of brewers is definitely about pushing

0:34:450:34:48

ourselves and the industry forward through the sharing of knowledge

0:34:480:34:51

and upping what we do within the beer.

0:34:510:34:54

We've been on the go all day, so it's time to take a quick break

0:34:580:35:02

before Len's next treat.

0:35:020:35:04

-This is the life, isn't it, Len?

-Yeah.

0:35:040:35:06

-Really is the life.

-All the best.

-Cheers, mate. Thank you.

0:35:060:35:09

-No, thank you.

-I don't know about that.

0:35:090:35:12

I have to leave you, because I've got my influences now,

0:35:130:35:16

from all the various places around the East End of London.

0:35:160:35:20

I'm going to go and do a bit of cooking.

0:35:200:35:23

And I'll be coming over to do a bit of eating!

0:35:230:35:26

-Look at you. Just relax.

-See you in a minute.

0:35:260:35:28

I'll see you in a minute, Len.

0:35:280:35:29

The dish I'm going to cook for him is a nod to those vibrant Vietnamese

0:35:310:35:35

flavours and ingredients he's seen earlier today.

0:35:350:35:39

I'm cooking Vietnamese minced pork in lettuce leaf cups.

0:35:390:35:43

That's great. When you want to feel refreshed, there's nothing better

0:35:460:35:50

than a bit of Vietnamese flowering tea.

0:35:500:35:52

It inspires me. It gets me going, really, because I'm going to be doing

0:35:520:35:55

Vietnamese pork mince, inside crispy lettuce cups for Len.

0:35:550:35:58

A classic dish, actually, but I think the combination of that beautiful

0:35:580:36:01

warm mint, inside the chilled, crunchy lettuce cups,

0:36:010:36:04

will just be perfect for Len, just for him to get a real taste

0:36:040:36:08

of Vietnam.

0:36:080:36:10

OK, starting off, get a bit of oil into our pan.

0:36:100:36:15

I've got my shallots and garlic, so I'm just going to chop those up.

0:36:150:36:20

You can crush this up if you want.

0:36:200:36:22

There's something about chopping your garlic.

0:36:220:36:25

If you've got those knife skills and fancy having a go, chop it up.

0:36:250:36:29

Straight into our hot pan.

0:36:290:36:32

Now, I have to say, I love using fresh chillies.

0:36:350:36:38

If there's an opportunity, another great tip, of course, is

0:36:380:36:41

keeping it in your freezer.

0:36:410:36:42

You just chop them up and then throw them in to your cooking.

0:36:420:36:46

If you haven't got that, use some chilli flakes.

0:36:460:36:49

OK, I am using a nice lean pork mince.

0:36:530:36:57

The lean ones are about 10% fat.

0:36:570:36:59

Some of them are much higher in fat.

0:36:590:37:01

If you're going to use that, then you're going to have to pour

0:37:010:37:04

that fat off, OK?

0:37:040:37:05

Let's get some of those spices in now.

0:37:050:37:07

Of course, I am talking about five spice.

0:37:070:37:10

Wonderfully, sweet aromatic flavours and smells coming through there.

0:37:100:37:13

That's your fennel, cinnamon, your star anise.

0:37:130:37:16

Those combinations of flavours together just works so well

0:37:160:37:19

when they're cooked down in the pan.

0:37:190:37:21

Really lovely.

0:37:210:37:22

Beginning to get wonderfully aromatic.

0:37:250:37:28

All those five spice flavours are just coming out of the pan.

0:37:280:37:31

Now, we can just add our wet ingredients.

0:37:310:37:34

First of all, we have got the nam pla, which is our fish sauce.

0:37:340:37:39

Now, don't forget, this is quite a pungent flavour.

0:37:390:37:42

A pungent aroma is going to come from your pan.

0:37:420:37:44

Don't get put off by that, guys, OK?

0:37:440:37:46

Soy sauce...

0:37:460:37:48

And, finally, your honey.

0:37:500:37:52

Good drizzle of honey. This will just bring it all together.

0:37:520:37:56

Sweeten all of that up quite beautifully.

0:37:560:37:59

That's fabulous. And my water chestnuts.

0:37:590:38:02

I'm just going to chop the remainder of those up.

0:38:020:38:05

You want to chop them up quite small. Don't forget, these guys,

0:38:050:38:08

these are going into your lettuce cups, so you don't want them too big.

0:38:080:38:12

And a small can of this will be absolutely perfect.

0:38:120:38:17

Here it is. In we go in with those.

0:38:170:38:20

It's almost like little diced pieces of potato going in there,

0:38:230:38:27

but it's not. I'll tell you what it does add to it,

0:38:270:38:29

it adds the most fantastic crunch and that's what I want.

0:38:290:38:32

You bite into it, you get the outside crunch of the lettuce.

0:38:320:38:36

You've got the beautiful succulent Vietnamese style pork mince

0:38:360:38:40

in there too and then you've got the additional bite

0:38:400:38:43

of the water chestnuts.

0:38:430:38:45

And that smells heavenly. The real taste of Vietnam.

0:38:470:38:52

I'm just going to let that cook down

0:38:530:38:55

until the pork mince is cooked through.

0:38:550:38:58

Should be another three or four minutes, no more than that.

0:38:580:39:01

Just enough time to refresh myself, as it is hot in this kitchen! Oh!

0:39:010:39:06

Now, when your mince is cooked down, you can see that.

0:39:080:39:11

Dried out a little bit now and you want to take on that lovely,

0:39:110:39:15

rich, brown colour. That's what you're looking for.

0:39:150:39:18

You can see the flecks of chilli and the water chestnuts in there.

0:39:180:39:21

When that's cooled slightly, we're going to incorporate our bean shoots

0:39:210:39:25

into it and that's it, guys.

0:39:250:39:28

It really is so, so simple. Keep it nice and crunchy and we can just

0:39:280:39:32

start to pile those into our little lettuce cups.

0:39:320:39:37

Bean sprouts don't need to be cooked and you can have them in a salad.

0:39:390:39:42

You can certainly serve them like this, which, I think, is

0:39:420:39:45

absolutely perfect.

0:39:450:39:46

OK, let's garnish them up now.

0:39:460:39:48

Got a little bit of fresh coriander going in there too.

0:39:480:39:52

OK, so, lots of bits all over.

0:39:520:39:55

That's it. All those lovely flavours.

0:39:550:39:57

All right, we've got a few chilli rings just popping around

0:39:570:40:02

there like that. That's lovely.

0:40:020:40:04

And last, but not least, I've got some of these little carrots

0:40:040:40:09

made into flowers, which I think are just really ever so pretty,

0:40:090:40:13

just captures the colour, if you like, of the country.

0:40:130:40:19

And there you have it.

0:40:190:40:20

Now I think these are absolutely delicious.

0:40:220:40:25

But let's see if my Vietnamese cups can raise a smile from Len.

0:40:250:40:29

-Look at that, Len.

-Let me have a look at that.

0:40:290:40:33

-Just take that?

-Yeah, grab that, take the chilli out,

0:40:330:40:35

cos I know you're not a chilli fan.

0:40:350:40:37

There's a little bit of chilli chopped up in it.

0:40:370:40:39

Also, I've chopped up some water chestnut in there.

0:40:390:40:43

That's very, very tasty. It's better than it looks.

0:40:480:40:52

-A bit like you.

-Oh, thanks a lot, Len!

-Moreish!

0:40:520:40:55

That's what I like.

0:40:550:40:58

I'm looking forward to feeding the people of the east end of London.

0:40:580:41:02

Come on, you lot, line-up, line-up, Len is about to feed you!

0:41:020:41:07

-Want to have a go, sir?

-Come and have a go. Come on.

0:41:070:41:10

-What do you think? Tell the truth.

-Absolutely lovely.

0:41:100:41:13

Not over-spicy, is it? A little bit of spice in there.

0:41:130:41:16

Coriander is good. Little bit of spice, but it's very fine flavours.

0:41:160:41:20

And that's a man who knows a thing or two.

0:41:200:41:23

Now look, "Mmm," he's gone. Straight away, before he did anything.

0:41:230:41:28

Mmm. Mmm.

0:41:280:41:29

Get hungry watching all of this going on!

0:41:310:41:33

-It's wonderful.

-Really? Where are you from?

-From Germany.

0:41:330:41:37

-Oh!

-HE SPEAKS GERMAN

0:41:370:41:39

Yes.

0:41:390:41:40

I loved it. Really good! I just went to Vietnam, as well,

0:41:400:41:45

-and it's just as good.

-The lady loves it.

0:41:450:41:47

I love it as well, Len.

0:41:470:41:49

How does it feel coming back to your old ground?

0:41:510:41:53

It's great. I should come here more often.

0:41:530:41:56

Yeah? Well, it's nice just to get passionate again about something.

0:41:560:41:59

It is and I've got to say, what a diverse amount of food.

0:41:590:42:03

It is amazing.

0:42:030:42:04

Did you like the Vietnamese thing or...?

0:42:040:42:06

-Yeah.

-I didn't understand you loved the broth, you loved the...

0:42:060:42:09

-The hospitality was lovely.

-Always.

0:42:090:42:12

Always lovely. So welcoming.

0:42:120:42:14

And we walked into that market and the smell of salt beef

0:42:140:42:18

filled your nostrils and the expression on your face,

0:42:180:42:21

totally changed. You were like a little kid again! Like this!

0:42:210:42:24

Wow, that is a true taste of me youth, old salt beef.

0:42:240:42:28

Just like nowadays after they have been in the pubs and that,

0:42:280:42:31

they go and have a kebab or whatever.

0:42:310:42:33

We used to go down Brick Lane and have a salt beef sandwich

0:42:330:42:37

-and salt beef in a...

-Bagel.

-Bagel.

0:42:370:42:39

You could have rye bread or bagel and the mustard sauce going on top

0:42:390:42:43

and a pickle and everything. It all just, kind of...

0:42:430:42:46

-what did you call it? The pickle?

-Slap and tickle!

0:42:460:42:48

-The slap and tickle.

-Bit of slap and tickle.

0:42:480:42:50

Put a bit of slap and tickle in there, mate. Lovely.

0:42:500:42:53

So, after our day of authentic Vietnamese cooking...

0:42:530:42:56

-No!

-Don't frighten me. It's a bit of tripe!

0:42:560:43:00

I got a taste of me childhood!

0:43:010:43:03

-You're not going to send the Krays after us!

-No!

0:43:040:43:07

Will any of today's dishes make it into Len's top ten?

0:43:070:43:10

Not quite, Ainsley!

0:43:110:43:13

I have certainly nibbled on some fascinating food, but for today,

0:43:130:43:17

at least, my top ten stays the same.

0:43:170:43:20

What a fabulous day we've had in the East End of London.

0:43:200:43:24

Ainsley is going to have to go a long way to beat that!

0:43:240:43:28

Well, I'll take that on.

0:43:280:43:30

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