Johnny Ball My Life on a Plate


Johnny Ball

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'For everyone, there's a taste of food or a smell of cooking

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'that zooms you right back to childhood.'

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It's just like my mum's cake!

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'I'm Brian Turner.'

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Reminds me of someone I used to know about school, does that.

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'And I'm going to stir up the food memories of much-loved celebrities.'

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-ALL:

-Ohh!

-Look at that!

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'Going back to their early days before they were famous...'

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Oh, my gosh!

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'..with recollections of Sunday roasts and school dinners...'

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-It's time for something to eat.

-Brilliant!

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'..and celebrating food their home regions are proud of.'

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BRIAN LAUGHS

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-Which way would you like to go?

-This way.

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'I'll recreate a nostalgic family favourite...'

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Mmm. You can't beat a crumble.

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'..and a tribute dish that puts my guest's life on a plate.'

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Magic.

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Magic!

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'Today, television presenter Johnny Ball is back in his home town,

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Bristol.'

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'He'll be revisiting old haunts...'

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That was our sweet shop.

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But during the war there were no sweets!

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'..and telling tall tales from bygone days...'

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WG Grace actually hit the ball over the spire.

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'..while I'll be cooking dishes'

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'that should unlock some long forgotten memories.'

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Oh, you're going to love that, lad.

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Johnny was born in 1938 to Daniel and Anne,

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who'd moved to Bristol from Lancashire.

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Bristol was one of England's most important ports,

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and is still proud of its maritime heritage.

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Perhaps its most famous son,

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apart from Johnny, of course,

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is Victorian engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel,

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who designed its docks, its railway station,

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and its most famous landmark,

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the Clifton Suspension Bridge.

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Brunel was Johnny's childhood hero,

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so we're starting our journey into his food memories

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against this amazing backdrop.

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-Johnny, hi.

-Hello.

-How you doing?

-I'm very well.

-What a very pretty view.

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-Isn't it gorgeous?

-Look at that.

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When I was about seven, at school,

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the only drawing I ever did when they said, "Do a drawing, anything you like",

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was two green blobs and the bridge across.

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It was so easy.

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But I love the bridge, and it's just wonderful.

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Had he ever kept any of those pictures?

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No, I don't think so, I don't think they're worth keeping.

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No, but they must be worth a fortune, now. Johnny Ball.

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The teacher would rather have hung me than the pictures.

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THEY LAUGH

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Sit down and have a chat, and tell me more of these stories.

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Certainly, certainly.

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What were you good at school?

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I was immediately good at maths

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because my dad always played maths games with me.

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He built a bagatelle table, you know, with the marble.

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But he built it, and it was much more ornate

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and elaborate than the other ones.

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And I could total the numbers as the ball fell in, you see.

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Then, at school, the teacher...

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We used to... "We want homework! We want homework!"

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-No!

-Can you imagine...?

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I can't, I can't, no!

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And he said "You don't get homework till you're nine",

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and we were seven.

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"We want homework."

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So he got these horrible Xeroxed copies,

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they always smelled oily,

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because of the copying system in those days,

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and there were 100 simple additions or subtractions or multiplications.

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He said, "If you do ten, I'm happy."

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And me and about four others would do all hundred.

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In the 1970s, maths and science made Johnny a household name,

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when he inspired a generation of children with his programmes,

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Think Of A Number, and Think Again.

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Nitro-glycerine is the stuff.

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And apparently, you don't even need a match!

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Just a little tap with a hammer.

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HE COUGHS AND SPLUTTERS

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Oh, mate. I'll be nobbled.

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But back when Johnny himself was a child,

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he was living in a country at war.

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How did Bristol cope during the war, was it badly affected?

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Well, I think there were four nights of Blitz, and the first one,

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every other house around us had an Anderson shelter with a concrete...

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Concrete coffin, almost.

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And it would fit two households, so we went in there with the Churches,

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who lived next door, you know.

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Over 3.5 million Anderson shelters

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were distributed across the country in the early war years.

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They were designed to be part-buried, and then covered with soil,

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for protection from falling bombs.

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We didn't like it. It was horrible.

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-BRIAN LAUGHS

-Just me and my mum.

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-My dad was on nights, you see.

-Right.

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So that was the first night.

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We didn't get hit.

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The second one, we went under the stairs.

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In your house?

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In the cupboard under the stairs, in our house, me and my mum.

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On the third night, and the fourth night,

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we were under the kitchen table. That'll do.

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Just under the kitchen table.

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-Those must be memories that will stay with you forever.

-Very much.

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Nothing was hit anywhere near us,

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but when we came shopping, a few weeks later,

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St Mary Radcliffe, the church, was totally left unmarked,

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but everything around it was blitzed.

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Everything was just...

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Department stores, completely gone.

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-Rationing must have played a very big part in everybody's lives in those days.

-It was a big thing.

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You had ration books, and you had to give your coupons in,

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and you had to know your butcher to get your pieces.

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-A bit like Dad's Army.

-Oh, really?

-It genuinely was.

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You had to be friends with your butcher.

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And I remember my dad used to, on a Sunday, right,

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because eggs were so rationed and so scarce,

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my dad used to give me a mark.

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Do you remember a mark?

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It's a slice of bread, rub it in his yolk.

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"There you are."

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And that was my egg.

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-Do you know, I've never heard that one before.

-It was amazing.

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Amazing, that is, in't it, eh?

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So what do you remember eating in those days,

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in your junior school days?

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I remember my mother used to make a lot of stews. And she...

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And there was a problem

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because she used to thicken the stews with barley. Right.

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-So it's a Scouse sort of type thing.

-Yeah, yeah.

-But with barley.

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Well, the barley made me cockle terrible.

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-Cockle?

-Choke.

-Yeah, yeah.

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And I couldn't take it and the sweat used to pour out of me,

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because of its consistency, the barley.

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And so I couldn't eat my Sunday lunch.

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-Did you have a war with your mum?

-With my dad.

-Your dad said,

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"You're eating that, lad. You know how much..."

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-My dad used to put me over a chair.

-Did he?

-Yeah.

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Virtually every Sunday lunchtime.

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Before they took the food away cold. You know.

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And that was tiring,

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because everything else that was in my childhood was happy, it was...

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That was the only thing that I remember,

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and my God, do I remember it.

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You used to get a lot of offal.

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-Now, not many people like offal. How did you get on with it?

-That's right.

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That was fine. Liver, I've always liked liver.

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I think we had...

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..not so much lamb's liver as pig's liver, in those days.

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-I think it was cheaper and easier to get.

-Yeah.

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You also had cheese in milk.

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Yes, you'd have a metal plate, and you would cut the cheese,

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and just almost cover it in milk, and that was it,

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-and just grill it just like that.

-My dad used to do that.

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Oh, it's just gorgeous, you can't beat it.

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After the war, cheese was one of the items that were still rationed.

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Each person was allowed 3oz in old money.

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That's 75g, today.

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But what I've ordered for us looks like a couple of months' worth.

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Wow, look at that!

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-Whoops.

-A real Ploughman's.

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-Thank you.

-Well, it is, isn't it?

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Got a bit of fruit there, we've got some cheese,

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we've got gherkins, onions, eggs, bit of bread. They look fantastic.

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It's definitely not wartime rationing Ploughman's,

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this is certainly not.

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What about other foods that you eat, now, what kind of thing do you like?

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-Anything. Anything.

-Oh, really?

-Oh, yes.

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We love the fish, I love mackerel and the oily fishes.

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Well, that reminds me, of course, that your mum and dad,

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-coming from Lancashire, wouldn't eat cod.

-Oh, no.

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Cod is dirty fish.

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Swims on the bottom, eats all the rubbish. No, they wouldn't.

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-Full of worms.

-That's why I love it.

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JOHNNY CHUCKLES

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Oh, no, it had to be haddock.

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Because in Bristol... What was it?

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Gurnit. We used to get gurnit.

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-Gurnard.

-Is that...? Gurnard.

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Well, it's called gurnit in Bristol.

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-And I think that was a cheaper fish.

-It's got a lot of bone to it.

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-Yeah, it had. Always had.

-Got a tough head.

-Yeah.

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-But actually it's got a nice flavour to it.

-Mmm. Yeah.

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That is lovely, that really is lovely.

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A Ploughman's was always Cheddar cheese,

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and nothing else but Cheddar cheese.

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You know, they say that Cheddar is probably the most eaten cheese

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in the whole world, these days.

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And it should be, it's gorgeous. It's unadulterated.

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When you say it's gorgeous, is that because of the Cheddar Gorge?

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-Oh, behave, behave!

-Because if you did I missed it, I'm sorry.

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The southwest isn't just home to

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arguably the world's favourite cheese, Cheddar.

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There are over 2,500 dairy farms here.

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'I've come to Marshfield Farm

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'to find out what makes this part of the world so good

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'for milk production.'

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-Morning, Will.

-Hello, Brian.

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-How you doing, boss?

-Fine, thank you. How are you?

-Yeah.

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'Will Hawking has lived on the farm since he was a child.'

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So, Will, we're on the very edge of the Cotswolds.

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We're really in the heart of the West Country.

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What is it that makes dairy farming so prolific?

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It's probably got one of the best climates in the world

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for dairy farming.

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At the end of the day, the key thing that you need is a mild climate,

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and steady, fairly high rainfall to produce grass.

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What the cow does for us is to take that grass

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and to turn it into what we can make, and salvage, as milk.

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So these are easily recognisable cattle,

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and I assumed they're chosen because their qualities are good for

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-dairy production?

-Exactly.

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So, these are Friesians,

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but they also have some Holstein blood in them as well.

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They have phenomenal ability to convert grass to milk.

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-Milk machines?

-Exactly.

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Nowadays, the cows are milked twice a day,

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in purpose-built milking parlours where it's all about cleanliness.

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Moooo!

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But cows are cows,

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so you wouldn't go to work here wearing your best suit.

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So, this is the action part, now,

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we're actually going to see where the milk actually...

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How it's unloaded from the cattle, yeah?

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This is the business end, really.

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-Yeah. We're togged up as we are.

-Fully togged up.

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I'm sorry about this.

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-No, no!

-I know this has been a shock to your system.

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I'd much rather be this way than getting caught out.

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Messy in there, sometimes?

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It is messy, I'm afraid, that's part of the job.

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-Let's go and get this job done.

-OK.

-We can do it!

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'In all my years drinking milk and eating cheese,

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'this will be a first for me.'

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Would you like to have a go at milking a cow, Brian?

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Well, I'm going to see how it works, yes.

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TUBE HISSES

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-There's a good strong vacuum, there.

-Yeah.

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Let me just get my finger out. So...

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Pop...

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Each of the...

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Each of the lines onto the teats of the cow,

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and away she goes, and you can see the milk coming quite fast.

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She'll only take about two minutes to give us probably 20 litres.

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-And there's no pain, it's the fact that they need to be milked?

-No, they love it. They love to be milked.

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In fact, in a robotic system,

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cows will naturally come in four or five times a day to be milked,

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so they like the relief, I think...

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-Yeah.

-..of unloading the milk.

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Now, do you think you can locate them onto the cow's teats?

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-So, this one goes onto...

-That one goes over there, be careful.

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That's it. I'll get the inside one.

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-OK, this one goes...

-That one goes there.

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That's it. Perfect.

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I've got the other one.

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-Right.

-You'll see the milk.

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And your man, James, does this by himself, normally?

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James does it all by himself. You can see him starting at the back.

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-And he's doing 250 cattle?

-About 200 in milk at the moment, yeah.

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Every morning and every evening. Yeah.

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Quite amazing, isn't it, eh, really?

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'Every day, Will's herd produces up to 10,000 litres of milk.

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'But it's not all destined to be drunk.'

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Moo.

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In 1988, Will's family decided to make something with their milk.

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Ice cream.

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It would take a day for our milk to become ice cream.

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Whether it's exotic mango, or good old vanilla, the process is the same.

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Heat the milk to kill the nasties.

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Chill down again, and add natural flavours and colours.

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The smell is fantastic.

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'Will's told me there's one part of the process that's a bit tricky,

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'and I've drawn the short straw.'

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It's not easy, most people, it takes a good week,

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-so I'm expecting a muddle.

-So, the next one, I'm going to take over.

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The next one. OK. So, I'll finish this.

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-Yeah, you say go and I'll take over.

-Then you have a go,

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-and we see how we go.

-It looks simple but I'm sure it's not going to be.

-We've a bucket underneath,

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so it's not the end of the world if you make a muddle.

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You'll be a natural, if you get it.

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Off you go. Not bad.

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Very good.

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Follow around the tub.

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That's good. Follow round the tub.

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You get a bit frightened then, when you get near the end.

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You're doing fine. Keep going.

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Keep going, and to the end, keep going and... hop!

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Not bad!

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-He's a natural.

-Yeah, I don't know about that.

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This is a skill that has to be practised to be learned, it is...

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You could do this on the Generation Game, I suspect.

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Filling it isn't too bad, it's when you get near the end...

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-You've got to dip it right in and pull it away.

-Yeah.

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-Don't forget, we're going at about a third speed, here.

-Oh, shut up!

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You don't have to tell people that!

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Oh, no! Now, now, you see? You've got me going now.

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-I've ruined it for you.

-OK, right, off you go.

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Concentrate, Turner, concentrate.

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-You could have a great future here if you want one, Brian.

-Hey!

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Oh, that was a clean one.

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That's not bad at all.

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'I don't think I'll be giving up the day job any time soon.'

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-Cheers.

-Cheers.

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Back in the city, Johnny and I are on the way to his old manor.

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Johnny's family lived in Kingswood,

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a suburb on the side of Bristol,

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just seven miles from Brunel's famous bridge.

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Over there, there was an arbour,

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and it was absolutely covered in roses and it was just beautiful,

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and it was really like a dark cave, even when it was sunny.

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It was gorgeous. And the playground's down there.

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And that's still there.

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And the church's over there.

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The church is over there,

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and I was in the Cubs. 111th, Kingswood, Bristol.

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And the school down there.

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So, it's just amazing. It's amazing that so much of it is the same.

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Was the headmaster at the primary school

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-an officious kind of person, or...

-The headmaster was wonderful.

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And the headmaster taught me maths,

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and was one of my inspirations, no question about that.

0:15:310:15:34

He got me going in the right direction. Mr Benson.

0:15:340:15:37

Well, the right direction, sir, for Mr Benson's, won't be there.

0:15:370:15:40

-You go and have a look at the school.

-Oh, yeah.

0:15:400:15:42

It'll bring back loads of happy memories,

0:15:420:15:44

and I'm going to cook a little dish

0:15:440:15:45

which will also bring back some memories, I hope.

0:15:450:15:48

-Wonderful!

-You go enjoy yourself.

-See you later.

-Cheers, Johnny.

0:15:480:15:51

Wow!

0:15:580:16:00

My old school, and it hasn't changed in the 70 years

0:16:000:16:03

since I was here, more or less.

0:16:030:16:04

And I remember the first day,

0:16:040:16:06

because I remember there was a classroom over there,

0:16:060:16:08

and at playtime they all went out

0:16:080:16:10

and I was kept in, by this horrible teacher,

0:16:100:16:14

because I wouldn't drink my milk. Little bottle of milk.

0:16:140:16:17

And it smelt sour and awful, I wouldn't drink it.

0:16:170:16:20

So, on my first day I was kept in at playtime!

0:16:200:16:23

But I loved the school. I loved being at school.

0:16:240:16:27

I walked about a mile, up the road here, every morning.

0:16:270:16:30

First day, my mother said, "Tag along with the others",

0:16:300:16:32

and off I went, and walked for a mile.

0:16:320:16:34

I was never taken to school, never brought home,

0:16:340:16:37

always walked up and down the road here.

0:16:370:16:39

And afterwards if we had a penny,

0:16:390:16:41

and I usually had a penny,

0:16:410:16:43

we'd go in the shop and, look, it hasn't changed.

0:16:430:16:46

It's still there.

0:16:460:16:47

And that was our sweet shop.

0:16:470:16:49

But during the war there were no sweets!

0:16:490:16:51

So...

0:16:510:16:52

What could we have?

0:16:520:16:53

We used to buy liquorice, which was very nice,

0:16:530:16:55

but it was actually a laxative,

0:16:550:16:57

and that what it was supposed to be.

0:16:570:16:59

Or we'd buy hundreds and thousands for cake decoration.

0:16:590:17:02

And suck them with our finger, because there were no sweets!

0:17:030:17:06

So we had a tough time.

0:17:060:17:07

But we survived!

0:17:070:17:08

'I'm planning a dish for Johnny packed full of childhood memories.'

0:17:100:17:15

'I know he likes liver, but I'm going to add some extras,

0:17:160:17:19

'to make a cheap ingredient into a feast.'

0:17:190:17:22

Lamb's kidneys, still in their fat, and some black pudding,

0:17:220:17:26

and I've got some local Somerset cider to make the sauce.

0:17:260:17:30

Firstly, what we need to do, however, we get some onions cooking away.

0:17:300:17:34

So, we'll just shred these onions.

0:17:350:17:38

Nice and finely.

0:17:390:17:41

Bags of flavour. Sweetness...

0:17:410:17:43

..flavour, and texture.

0:17:440:17:46

Leave them to cook, slowly.

0:17:550:17:57

Put some salt and pepper in.

0:17:590:18:01

And I'm going to put in there a little knob of butter.

0:18:030:18:05

Really tasty.

0:18:080:18:09

And just let them slowly cook away.

0:18:110:18:14

Wow!

0:18:190:18:20

The senior playground.

0:18:210:18:23

We were only up to 11, I took my 11+ here,

0:18:230:18:26

but this playground didn't have cars or fences,

0:18:260:18:29

it was a big open space,

0:18:290:18:31

and we all used to play in here and we all had hobnail boots,

0:18:310:18:36

and the great thing about hobnail boots is you could slide in them.

0:18:360:18:38

But what we'd do is get a chain of kids, and they'd run round,

0:18:380:18:42

and the one on the end was like a water skier, hanging on.

0:18:420:18:45

And whoosh!

0:18:450:18:46

We'd swing them round in their hobnail boots,

0:18:460:18:48

and try and smash them into the wall.

0:18:480:18:51

But if you were sensible, you let go just at the right time,

0:18:510:18:54

and either stopped yourself against the wall,

0:18:540:18:57

or slammed into some other kids.

0:18:570:18:59

We were very robust kids.

0:18:590:19:00

There was no health and safety,

0:19:000:19:02

but I don't remember any of us coming a-cropper in those days.

0:19:020:19:05

'The onions for my dish are softening gently,

0:19:070:19:09

'so I can get on with preparing the rest of the ingredients.

0:19:090:19:13

'Starting with kidneys, for the sauce.'

0:19:130:19:15

These are lovely when they're in their fat,

0:19:160:19:17

you can't get them in the fat all the time.

0:19:170:19:20

Just take the fat off,

0:19:200:19:22

and there's a skin on the outside of the kidney,

0:19:220:19:25

which peels off, as well.

0:19:250:19:27

Delicious.

0:19:270:19:28

And they're not expensive, either, these.

0:19:280:19:30

Good for you, very tasty.

0:19:300:19:33

Going to cut them into a little bit of a dice.

0:19:350:19:38

Two will probably be enough.

0:19:380:19:39

Wonderfully sweet shallots will be the base for the sauce.

0:19:420:19:45

Don't worry if they're not too fine, it's just to get that real...

0:19:470:19:50

..flavour out of them.

0:19:510:19:52

And I just want to sweat them off, put a bit of butter in there...

0:19:560:19:59

Just to get that...

0:20:020:20:04

..flavour on the go.

0:20:060:20:07

So, bags of onions, there.

0:20:120:20:14

And we all know that liver and onion works fantastic.

0:20:140:20:16

Tried and tested throughout the years.

0:20:160:20:18

Perfect marriage.

0:20:180:20:20

So, those onions are on the go, and the shallots just softening up.

0:20:200:20:24

And all I do now is just flip them into a pan.

0:20:240:20:27

Make sure you get them all out.

0:20:280:20:30

Because we don't want to burn.

0:20:310:20:33

And then put the pan back on.

0:20:370:20:39

Bit more oil in there.

0:20:390:20:40

A tad of butter.

0:20:420:20:43

And when it's hot enough, and you need to be patient, now.

0:20:460:20:49

You need to just let the heat get in there.

0:20:490:20:51

So you can hear that the butter's getting hotter,

0:20:510:20:55

and when it starts to change colour,

0:20:550:20:57

in go the kidneys.

0:20:570:20:58

Starting to get hot enough.

0:21:000:21:01

Quickly...

0:21:040:21:05

..into the pan.

0:21:060:21:07

And the trick here is not to mess about with it too much,

0:21:130:21:16

just let it sit there for a moment, then we turn it over.

0:21:160:21:20

Seal it on all sides, get it warm in the middle.

0:21:200:21:22

See, it's just been coloured

0:21:260:21:27

on all sides,

0:21:270:21:28

so let's take that off

0:21:280:21:31

and put that in here...

0:21:310:21:32

..to keep. We don't want it to overcook, that's the secret.

0:21:340:21:37

What I don't want to do is throw away any of this flavour from the pan.

0:21:370:21:41

So, we've got some wonderful local Somerset cider.

0:21:410:21:44

And the cider goes in.

0:21:450:21:46

And it'll start to reduce.

0:21:550:21:56

Washing the flavour of the pan, all collecting together,

0:21:560:21:59

and we put a bit of chicken stock in there...

0:21:590:22:01

..and we'll just leave that.

0:22:030:22:05

Wow!

0:22:110:22:12

Oh, just to think that when I was here,

0:22:130:22:15

I was always top, or next to top, and always top in maths.

0:22:150:22:20

In the Second World War,

0:22:210:22:23

they had gas masks hanging from the hooks,

0:22:230:22:26

and they were Mickey Mouse gas masks.

0:22:260:22:29

They smelt horrible, horrible.

0:22:290:22:31

You thought you were going to suffocate in them,

0:22:310:22:33

but they had little ears like Mickey Mouse,

0:22:330:22:36

just to make kids feel happier in them.

0:22:360:22:38

We hated them!

0:22:380:22:40

Mickey Mouse gas masks.

0:22:400:22:41

Eurgh! They gave me nightmares!

0:22:410:22:43

So far, I've softened a whole heap of onions,

0:22:470:22:50

and cooked some lamb's kidneys with shallots,

0:22:500:22:52

which I'll add to a cider sauce.

0:22:520:22:54

Everything else will happen now Johnny's back from his school tour.

0:22:550:22:59

-Ey up, lad.

-That was wonderful.

-Was it all right?

0:23:010:23:03

-Seeing the old school, yeah.

-Happy memories?

-Oh! Tears in my eyes!

0:23:030:23:07

-No, it was gorgeous.

-Look, I just need to do this fairly quickly,

0:23:070:23:10

because I've put together a dish that I think'll take you back to your childhood,

0:23:100:23:13

because you had lots of offal.

0:23:130:23:14

So, we've got some lambs liver, I've got some kidneys,

0:23:140:23:18

and I've got some black pudding.

0:23:180:23:19

First, I need to put that lamb's liver on.

0:23:190:23:21

Now, it's such a good price, and it's so good for you.

0:23:210:23:25

Just get rid of the excess oil.

0:23:280:23:29

Not too hot. But yet hot.

0:23:320:23:35

OK, so...

0:23:370:23:39

I'll just turn that...

0:23:390:23:40

..over. That looks grand.

0:23:410:23:43

Lovely. And then a piece of black pudding.

0:23:480:23:50

Which is very northern, but it's not quite Bury Market.

0:23:520:23:55

-I like it when the fat is very fine, like that.

-Yeah, me too, yeah.

0:23:550:23:59

I eat black pudding sandwiches raw, you know.

0:23:590:24:02

-Just black pudding and a little bit of salt.

-My relations do that.

0:24:020:24:05

-Now, look. In here, I've got some shallots.

-Yeah.

0:24:050:24:07

Some butter and some kidney, and I'll put that...

0:24:070:24:09

..into the sauce. Excuse me, sir.

0:24:100:24:13

Give it a whirl round.

0:24:140:24:15

Oh, yeah.

0:24:160:24:17

Ah, that's coming together nicely, is that, now.

0:24:170:24:20

Oh, you're going to love that, lad.

0:24:200:24:22

Let's have a quick look over here.

0:24:220:24:24

-Oh, look at that black pudding.

-Oh, it's beautiful.

0:24:250:24:28

So, I'm going to take the liver off, don't want that to overcook.

0:24:280:24:31

Want to keep it under-done. And all I need to do now...

0:24:310:24:34

..is dress up.

0:24:360:24:37

Not dress up, dress the plate up, that is, of course.

0:24:370:24:40

-You know what I mean, don't you, eh?

-I do, I do.

0:24:400:24:42

-Oh, look at this.

-Look at those.

0:24:420:24:44

So, we'll put a few onions...

0:24:440:24:47

..in the middle of the plate.

0:24:490:24:50

That's good.

0:24:500:24:51

Take the liver across.

0:24:530:24:55

Oh, look at that! Still pink.

0:24:570:24:58

-The thing in my book is not to hide everything.

-Yeah.

0:24:580:25:01

So, we put that...

0:25:030:25:04

..down the bottom, there. OK.

0:25:060:25:09

Mustn't forget a nice lump of black pudding in there.

0:25:090:25:12

Oh, look, and it's still tender.

0:25:120:25:14

Bit of parsley in there.

0:25:140:25:16

Bit of colour.

0:25:170:25:18

Make sure we get some of that...

0:25:230:25:24

..kidney on the top. And then, all I'm going to do...

0:25:260:25:31

-..is dribble that around there.

-Dribble, it's one of those words...

0:25:310:25:34

-What do you think to that, guv'nor?

-That looks tremendous.

0:25:370:25:40

The nostalgia dish I've cooked for Johnny is grilled lamb's liver

0:25:430:25:47

with black pudding and onions,

0:25:470:25:48

with a kidney and cider sauce.

0:25:480:25:50

I do hope he likes it.

0:25:500:25:52

Oh, the...

0:25:590:26:01

The kidney's wonderful.

0:26:010:26:02

-Still pink.

-Still pink, lovely.

0:26:060:26:08

-Oh, that's gorgeous.

-JOHNNY CHUCKLES

0:26:080:26:10

-But does it remind you of the days when your mum used to give you the stuff that they could afford?

-It did.

0:26:100:26:15

It was the cheaper ends that were available, and you went for.

0:26:150:26:20

We had it a lot, and oh, I loved it.

0:26:200:26:22

I loved it.

0:26:220:26:23

Mmm.

0:26:240:26:26

I love offal too, and it's been a pleasure to make my version

0:26:260:26:29

of liver and onions for such an appreciative guest as Johnny.

0:26:290:26:33

-Reet good, in't it?

-It's all right so far, in't it, lad?

-Reet good.

0:26:340:26:36

BRIAN CHUCKLES

0:26:360:26:38

'Fresh offal has a short shelf life,

0:26:390:26:42

'and I prefer to buy it from a local butcher,

0:26:420:26:44

'who can get me the cuts I'm after.'

0:26:440:26:46

'Nowadays, we are all interested in where our food comes from,

0:26:470:26:51

'whether it's meat, fish or vegetables.'

0:26:510:26:53

In Bristol city centre, there's a food business

0:26:580:27:01

that's all about growing the freshest food, and benefiting the community.

0:27:010:27:05

In the shadow of Isambard Kingdom Brunel's Temple Meads station

0:27:070:27:12

is the headquarters of the Severn project.

0:27:120:27:14

It's an urban farm that supplies some

0:27:170:27:19

of the best shops and restaurants in Bristol,

0:27:190:27:21

AND provides much-needed work opportunities in the inner city.

0:27:210:27:25

And what's the crop that's working such miracles?

0:27:280:27:30

Would you believe it... simple bags of salad.

0:27:310:27:34

The founder of the project is addiction counsellor Steve Glover.

0:27:360:27:40

We started in 2010 with £2,500 and a book by Monty Don.

0:27:410:27:47

We learned how to grow food,

0:27:470:27:49

then we learned how to sell food.

0:27:490:27:51

This year, 2015, we will probably turn over £500,000.

0:27:510:27:55

As the project's expanded,

0:27:570:27:58

they've opened a second site on the outskirts of Bristol

0:27:580:28:01

to keep up with demand.

0:28:010:28:03

This site is special because it has being used to grow vegetables

0:28:040:28:08

since, they say, the end of the First World War.

0:28:080:28:12

The people who run the allotments,

0:28:120:28:14

who know the area a lot better than I do,

0:28:140:28:16

have told us a story that the most fertile land here

0:28:160:28:21

is where it was bombed by the German bombers in the Second World War,

0:28:210:28:27

which broke up the limestone pavement underneath the clay,

0:28:270:28:31

allowing the soil to drain better, and become more fertile.

0:28:310:28:34

It's a great story, and even if it IS just a suburban myth,

0:28:370:28:41

there's no denying just how productive this plot's become.

0:28:410:28:45

On average, we produce and sell 700 kilos a week. Quite amazing, really.

0:28:480:28:53

It's a real feat.

0:28:530:28:54

This is a list of our restaurants.

0:28:560:28:58

Don Giovanni's is an Italian.

0:28:580:29:01

Earthbound is a small whole food shop.

0:29:010:29:04

The Pony and Trap is a Michelin star.

0:29:040:29:07

River Cottage.

0:29:090:29:11

Nice to be actually supplying people like that with salad.

0:29:110:29:13

It's a bit of a feather in our cap. I'm really proud of this board.

0:29:130:29:16

Five years ago, as a student, a mature student,

0:29:170:29:20

I couldn't afford to eat in a lot of the restaurants we supply food to.

0:29:200:29:23

Everything the project grows is organic.

0:29:260:29:29

The salad mix contains six different types of leaves,

0:29:290:29:32

and the crop's ready to pick in just three weeks.

0:29:320:29:35

We are now harvesting for mixed leaf salad.

0:29:390:29:43

That's the bulk of what we do.

0:29:430:29:45

They do say that the average lettuce travels 1,800 miles

0:29:450:29:49

before it actually gets into the customer's fridge.

0:29:490:29:52

And in that time, of course,

0:29:520:29:54

it's degenerating and losing its mineral content...

0:29:540:29:57

..whereas ours is quite often delivered

0:29:590:30:02

the same day as it's picked.

0:30:020:30:04

Most of the places that the project delivers to

0:30:100:30:13

are within five miles of Temple Meads station.

0:30:130:30:16

At the heart of the city is the beautiful St Nicholas market.

0:30:170:30:20

This Victorian covered arcade

0:30:220:30:24

has become a foodie destination over the last few years.

0:30:240:30:27

Joe Wheatcroft opened this deli and restaurant in 2009,

0:30:290:30:33

aiming to sell the best ingredients from this region.

0:30:330:30:36

The locality is really, really key.

0:30:390:30:41

Living here in the south-west,

0:30:410:30:43

I think we are extremely blessed. It's... abundant.

0:30:430:30:47

The land around us has been producing food for years,

0:30:470:30:51

and it's really, really good quality.

0:30:510:30:53

Using local food not only gives you a low food mile,

0:30:540:30:58

but it also brings you the freshest product you can possibly get.

0:30:580:31:01

So when we're talking about the Severn project leaves,

0:31:010:31:05

for example, they are picked on that day or the day before,

0:31:050:31:07

and brought to us and then they're on people's plates that same day.

0:31:070:31:11

Steve's idea of growing food on a patch of wasteland isn't a new one.

0:31:150:31:19

In the Second World War,

0:31:220:31:23

every inch of the available land was pressed into service

0:31:230:31:26

for growing fruit and vegetables.

0:31:260:31:28

It became everyone's patriotic duty

0:31:300:31:33

to dig for victory.

0:31:330:31:34

And in neat suburban gardens,

0:31:340:31:37

homeowners replaced their lawns with

0:31:370:31:38

runner beans.

0:31:380:31:40

In the 1930s, there had been a housing boom across the country,

0:31:420:31:46

including in Bristol.

0:31:460:31:47

Many of these new houses were smart semis, with big back gardens.

0:31:500:31:54

That meant lots of room for a spacious vegetable plot.

0:31:540:31:57

Just like Johnny's childhood home.

0:31:580:32:00

So this is our street, and the grass verges went right out,

0:32:020:32:06

and the road was narrower, so there was lots of grass verge.

0:32:060:32:09

-It was beautiful.

-It wouldn't be as busy road in the...

0:32:090:32:11

We never saw cars.

0:32:110:32:12

The chap in one of these houses

0:32:120:32:14

was the only person in the whole road with a car,

0:32:140:32:17

and we would go and meet him on his way home...

0:32:170:32:20

-To get in the car!

-And he would give us lifts.

0:32:200:32:22

So we'd walk two miles to get a lift back,

0:32:220:32:24

which was lovely, because it was such a novelty, a car.

0:32:240:32:27

Johnny's parents moved here when he was just a toddler.

0:32:280:32:31

Mum and Dad were so happy in this house. It was beautiful.

0:32:320:32:36

And on VE night, across there,

0:32:360:32:39

we built a bonfire, and it was enormous,

0:32:390:32:42

and all the troops, everybody celebrating.

0:32:420:32:45

All the troops, American, English,

0:32:450:32:47

all did a crawl from bonfire to bonfire,

0:32:470:32:51

and they always had some hooch with them,

0:32:510:32:53

and we had a searchlight on a lawn over there,

0:32:530:32:56

which was probably there,

0:32:560:32:58

a piano, an upright piano on this one or that one,

0:32:580:33:01

record players...

0:33:010:33:03

The people working in the aircraft industry made lights,

0:33:030:33:06

VE Night, flashing.

0:33:060:33:07

And it was just phenomenal.

0:33:070:33:09

And I was, at seven years old,

0:33:090:33:11

I was still kicking the embers of the bonfire

0:33:110:33:14

at four o'clock in the morning. It was a wonderful night.

0:33:140:33:16

Yes. Always been a stayer.

0:33:160:33:18

Brian Walsh lived over there, Graham Greene lived at the end.

0:33:220:33:25

-Graham Greene?

-Not the author.

-So, did you have a whole gang of mates?

0:33:250:33:28

Oh, it was wonderful. We played out here literally till it went dark,

0:33:280:33:31

about nine o'clock at the latest.

0:33:310:33:33

-Many happy memories about your mates around here?

-Absolutely.

0:33:330:33:37

But now, I'm going to cook for you

0:33:370:33:39

outside somewhere that you know very well...

0:33:390:33:41

I've still got the taste of the kidney in my mouth,

0:33:410:33:43

and it's wonderful. You've got to go some to top that.

0:33:430:33:46

Well, we're going to do that, then.

0:33:460:33:47

For the final stage of our trip around Johnny Ball's Bristol,

0:33:520:33:55

we've come to Frenchay Common,

0:33:550:33:57

where his family would often spend a relaxing afternoon.

0:33:570:34:00

Good cricketers played here.

0:34:020:34:03

And I'm not sure whether they played cricket there,

0:34:030:34:06

which would be small, a tight ground,

0:34:060:34:08

or whether they played here, which is a bigger ground.

0:34:080:34:10

But the story my dad always told me that WG Grace,

0:34:100:34:15

the greatest, perhaps, of the old cricketers,

0:34:150:34:17

actually hit the ball

0:34:170:34:20

over the spire.

0:34:200:34:21

They'll tell kids anything, won't they?

0:34:240:34:26

But it's just a lovely, lovely spot.

0:34:260:34:28

I've designed a tribute dish for Johnny

0:34:310:34:34

inspired by his childhood food.

0:34:340:34:36

It's going to be based around a fish that holds special memories.

0:34:360:34:39

Just for Johnny, we're going to cook some gurnard,

0:34:420:34:44

because his parents didn't like cod, they only liked haddock.

0:34:440:34:48

Couldn't get much of it, so they ate gurnard.

0:34:480:34:51

'I'm going to serve the gurnard with some green veg

0:34:510:34:54

'that would have been easy to grow in a wartime garden.

0:34:540:34:57

'Peas, onions and lettuce.'

0:34:570:35:00

And a few fresh peas in there.

0:35:030:35:05

That should be enough.

0:35:070:35:08

And I'm going to use some chicken stock to cook them in,

0:35:080:35:11

not water, as Johnny's mum would probably have done.

0:35:110:35:14

And once again, to make them slightly different,

0:35:140:35:17

I'm going to use some lettuce to go in there.

0:35:170:35:20

Just shred it up...

0:35:200:35:21

Delicious.

0:35:240:35:26

And I've got a couple of spring onions.

0:35:270:35:30

We'll do the same with those, just shred them up.

0:35:300:35:33

So, put the spring onions in first.

0:35:360:35:39

And then I've got these lovely mangetout peas,

0:35:430:35:47

"eat all" peas.

0:35:470:35:49

And all we are going to do is just going to shred these.

0:35:490:35:51

Lovely, look at that. Lovely colour.

0:35:560:35:59

And a bit of lettuce and all.

0:35:590:36:00

That goes in there.

0:36:010:36:03

Salt and pepper.

0:36:030:36:04

Won't take too long.

0:36:060:36:07

About five to ten minutes.

0:36:070:36:08

'On the edge of the common is a place that Johnny should know well.'

0:36:110:36:15

Last time I was here, I was about ten, I think,

0:36:170:36:20

and my dad loved this pub.

0:36:200:36:22

And so did I, because there was always kids to play with

0:36:220:36:25

and it was great fun,

0:36:250:36:26

and we only came when it was a beautiful sunny day.

0:36:260:36:29

HE CHUCKLES

0:36:290:36:30

Hello, there.

0:36:350:36:36

Can I have a pint? Oh, I like that one.

0:36:360:36:39

-Yeah, this end one is fine.

-Yeah.

0:36:390:36:40

We would walk miles.

0:36:420:36:43

This pub is 3.5 miles from where my house was,

0:36:430:36:47

and we would walk here,

0:36:470:36:48

and this was one of the nicest ones.

0:36:480:36:51

We'd play out on the grass, out there,

0:36:510:36:54

and we'd run around and run around until we were dizzy, and daft.

0:36:540:36:58

And I remember falling down, absolutely exhausted, out there,

0:36:590:37:04

and I didn't know, I had my eyes closed,

0:37:040:37:07

and suddenly opened my eyes,

0:37:070:37:08

and my dad is pouring my bottle of lemonade onto my face.

0:37:080:37:12

HE LAUGHS

0:37:120:37:13

And everybody around is laughing. It was the human spirit.

0:37:130:37:17

People got together, and had fun, and relaxed.

0:37:170:37:20

And in wartime, that was very important.

0:37:200:37:23

So, here's to pubs.

0:37:230:37:24

'The veg for my tribute dish is bubbling away.

0:37:280:37:31

'I've got two types of peas, fresh and mangetout,

0:37:310:37:35

'as well as shredded little gem and spring onions on the go.'

0:37:350:37:38

I've got those all cooking away nicely.

0:37:390:37:42

-Hello, mate. How you doing?

-How's it going?

-It's going very well.

0:37:430:37:46

-How's your trip been?

-"It hasn't changed a bit", I said.

0:37:460:37:49

They said, "Yes, it has." It's double the size of when I was here as a kid.

0:37:490:37:52

But when I was little, it was a big pub anyway, because I was little.

0:37:520:37:56

Did you ever go inside it while you were a kid? Were you allowed to?

0:37:560:37:58

I don't remember a children's room here,

0:37:580:38:00

but most of them in this part of the world had children's rooms.

0:38:000:38:03

But if it was fine, you used to play out on the lawn here.

0:38:030:38:06

-And it was just fabulous.

-Come on, bags of space here. It's wonderful.

0:38:060:38:09

-Yeah.

-Right, now let me tell you what I've done.

-Right.

-Look. This...

0:38:090:38:11

-Remember your fish, gurnard?

-Yes.

0:38:110:38:13

This is gurnard, from Cornwall, just for you.

0:38:130:38:16

A nice little small fish, and I've filleted this one here,

0:38:160:38:19

but what we've done, very carefully,

0:38:190:38:22

-we've taken all the bones out.

-Right.

0:38:220:38:24

I'm going to put a bit of oil in there.

0:38:260:38:27

And a wee bit of butter.

0:38:290:38:30

So would this have been a cheap fish in the war?

0:38:300:38:33

Or an available fish in the war?

0:38:330:38:34

It would have been available fish, and you're quite right,

0:38:340:38:37

it wouldn't... It'll be an inexpensive fish.

0:38:370:38:39

Nothing was cheap in those days, I don't think. And today is the same.

0:38:390:38:42

It is not the most expensive of fishes.

0:38:420:38:44

Look, as soon as that starts to change colour,

0:38:440:38:47

it goes in, skin side down,

0:38:470:38:50

and the trick is just to hold it for a little while.

0:38:500:38:52

-It's cold, you won't burn yourself.

-..until the fat scalds your fingers?

0:38:520:38:56

-No, not at all! Till it just sets.

-Wow.

0:38:560:38:58

-Cos if you don't, otherwise the heat makes it curl up.

-Right.

0:38:580:39:02

So, we'll just put that...

0:39:020:39:03

Wow.

0:39:060:39:07

Like all fish, you want to make sure you don't overcook it.

0:39:080:39:11

-A bit of salt...

-Oh, my dad had salt on his food like snow.

-Yeah, I know.

0:39:110:39:16

Some people do, it's not a great idea, but you do need salt.

0:39:160:39:20

To give it some flavour, but that's really going to be...

0:39:200:39:22

-And it won't take long to cook.

-We never had much butter in the war.

0:39:220:39:25

-You do realise that?

-I know.

0:39:250:39:27

Well, this is actually is still left on your ration book.

0:39:270:39:30

-LAUGHING:

-Thank you, thank you!

-I'll turn it over.

0:39:300:39:32

-Doesn't that look nice?

-Oh, gorgeous.

0:39:340:39:35

See how I think that looks.

0:39:350:39:37

That looks very pretty, does that.

0:39:370:39:39

Over here, I've melted some butter, just a little bit of butter,

0:39:390:39:43

could've been margarine, and some flour, and you take a little bit...

0:39:430:39:47

And you just put that in there, like that,

0:39:490:39:53

and give it a stir.

0:39:530:39:54

And that will just help to thicken it up,

0:39:550:39:57

-so instead of having a gravy, it'll just hold it all together.

-Yeah.

0:39:570:40:01

This is peas in the French style,

0:40:010:40:04

-but for today we're in Frenchay Common, so...

-Ha-ha!

0:40:040:40:08

-We're almost there.

-Yes.

-Lovely.

0:40:080:40:10

OK.

0:40:100:40:12

With this,

0:40:120:40:13

I'm just going to take that oil and butter.

0:40:130:40:17

-Mmm, look at that.

-Just put it over the top there, just to cook it.

0:40:170:40:20

You've got to keep this under-done, you don't want to overdo fish,

0:40:200:40:23

you don't want it raw, but you've just got to make sure.

0:40:230:40:26

And that, I think...

0:40:260:40:28

And will you eat the skin as well?

0:40:280:40:30

I personally don't like the skin on this fish. Some people do,

0:40:300:40:33

-but the nice thing is it protects it.

-Yeah.

0:40:330:40:36

I'll tell you what, I'm just going to take this off here,

0:40:360:40:38

-it's starting to get a bit thick.

-OK.

0:40:380:40:40

So take that off, that's ready to go. This is just about ready.

0:40:400:40:43

-Right. Have you got a plate?

-So let me take that...

0:40:430:40:45

-Yeah, if you put that here for me, please.

-Is that coming here?

-Yeah.

0:40:450:40:48

I'm just going to take these off for a second.

0:40:480:40:50

And what I'm going to do is put a little bit of butter

0:40:500:40:54

-in this pan here.

-Yes.

0:40:540:40:55

We definitely never had that much butter in a year.

0:40:550:40:58

So look, we've got peas, two different kinds of peas,

0:40:580:41:02

-fresh garden peas, mangetout peas.

-Yeah.

0:41:020:41:05

We've got spring onion, we've got lettuce in there.

0:41:050:41:08

Yeah, the lettuce is...!

0:41:080:41:09

We've got a lovely colour, that's what I like about this dish.

0:41:090:41:12

It's got just lovely colour to it.

0:41:120:41:14

Uh-huh.

0:41:140:41:15

I'm going to take that one, there.

0:41:150:41:18

And in this butter here,

0:41:210:41:23

I'm going to squeeze lemon juice in,

0:41:230:41:25

that'll just stop it cooking,

0:41:250:41:28

stop it colouring any more, which is what I want.

0:41:280:41:31

And then I'm just going to lay that quickly over the top,

0:41:320:41:37

give you that lovely bit of colour, there,

0:41:370:41:40

and then the last little bit.

0:41:400:41:42

These are pea shoots.

0:41:420:41:44

They're quite tasty.

0:41:440:41:45

-We used to throw them away, once upon a time.

-Really?

0:41:450:41:48

But I'm just going to take a couple of pea shoots...

0:41:480:41:50

And there you are, dear boy.

0:41:520:41:53

'My tribute dish for Johnny is beautiful fillets of gurnard,

0:41:560:42:00

'a fish he enjoyed as a child.

0:42:000:42:03

'I'm serving them with a sauce of spring vegetables.

0:42:030:42:06

'Fresh peas, mangetout, spring onions,

0:42:060:42:09

'and little gem lettuce, all braised in chicken stock,

0:42:090:42:13

'as a reminder of those wartime mums and dads digging for victory.'

0:42:130:42:17

Wonder if I can remember the taste?

0:42:200:42:22

That's lovely.

0:42:270:42:28

-It's all right that, in't it?

-I can't recollect, but that is lovely.

0:42:280:42:31

And you've got shredded lettuce in here as well.

0:42:330:42:36

Lettuce and spring onions.

0:42:360:42:38

Mangetout, peas.

0:42:380:42:40

-Chicken stock and butter.

-Mmm! MMM!

0:42:400:42:42

That is gorgeous!

0:42:420:42:43

Really is.

0:42:430:42:44

Oh, if we had butter during the war, we'd have been wonderful.

0:42:440:42:48

HE CHUCKLES

0:42:480:42:49

Oh, look at that.

0:42:500:42:52

-So that's gone down well?

-Oh, it's lovely.

0:42:530:42:55

I don't recall that it was like that at all, when I was a child.

0:42:550:42:58

No, probably you wouldn't, you were young,

0:42:580:43:00

but what about the rest of the day?

0:43:000:43:02

I've loved it, you know.

0:43:020:43:04

And Bristol always gives me happy memories, I love the place.

0:43:040:43:06

I really do.

0:43:060:43:07

-Well, it's been a pleasure to meet you.

-Oh, it's been fantastic.

0:43:070:43:10

-Enjoy the rest of that fish.

-I will, I will!

0:43:100:43:12

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