Making the Most of It Nigel Slater's Dish of the Day


Making the Most of It

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I'm Nigel Slater.

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I'm someone who cooks by instinct and impulse.

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I tend not to follow recipes,

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I just make things up

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depending on what I fancy at the time and whatever ingredients I have to hand.

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I'd no idea how that was going to turn out.

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Do you know, I'm really quite pleased with that.

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It's exactly the same when I shop.

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I usually just buy whatever catches my eye and work out what I'm going to cook as the week unfolds.

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I like to vary my shopping week by week and come up with great ideas,

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and with a bit of creative thinking you really can cook delicious food every day of the week.

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I'm going to show you how I make the most of my weekly shop,

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to give you ideas how to not waste a bit of yours.

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This week, I'll be making the most of the ingredients that arrive in abundance,

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like blackberries, figs and tomatoes, and finding clever ways to put them to delicious use.

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Sometimes my favourite meal is the one I make just before I go shopping.

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And one particular dish, a frittata, is a delicious way of clearing the fridge.

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It's so easy to waste things when you've only got a little bit left.

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But if you use them like this, then you get a chance to use them up.

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So, I've got four eggs, a little bit of salt and pepper.

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And then a light whisk with a fork.

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It's just a question of breaking up the egg yolks and the whites, you don't actually have to beat it.

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In fact, it's better if you don't.

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So I've got a pan on the heat, a little bit of butter just a thin slice.

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And melt that.

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And, you know, I've got spinach, but it can be any leaf,

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anything that will just cook lightly and then go in with the eggs is fine.

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And you don't really need to cook this, just soften it, just let the leaves wilt.

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You still want the colours to be bright and vivid.

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You know, it's barely a minute's cooking time.

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There we are, done.

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If you've got some herbs, thyme, rosemary or basil, they'll work nicely with the eggs.

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And put some more butter in the pan.

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And now for the main event.

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Put the spinach in with the eggs.

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You know, you could put a little bit of cooked bacon in here, or some ham maybe that's left and needs using.

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I've even put a cold sausage in there before now, chopped up.

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So, as soon as the butter starts to sizzle very lightly, pour in the eggs.

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Now, because this is thicker than an omelette, you don't want to cook it on too high a heat.

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Keep the heat moderate to fairly low.

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One must-have topping for a frittata is cheese.

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I've spent quite a lot on this, but it really needs to be used today.

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Pretty much any kind will work on a frittata.

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But this goat's cheese is going to feel like a luxury.

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If I'd got any other sort of cheese, I would probably have cut it into small cubes, maybe grate it.

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But these will actually work really well left as rounds.

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Every now and again, just take a peep underneath to see what's happening.

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You want it to be a little bit golden, not too brown,

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and it needs to come away from the pan quite easily.

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Looks like it's ready to go under the grill.

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A frittata is such a brilliant dish.

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The eggs will bind just about anything together,

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and you'll have something filling and full of flavour in a matter of minutes.

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So when it's all puffed and golden, still almost a little bit liquid, slide it onto a plate.

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I think that's a very good way of using up a bit of spinach and a little bit of cheese.

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This flash-in-the-pan solution is a great start to the weekend.

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Sometimes, for whatever reason, there's a glut in the shops

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or some special offers that are too good to miss.

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When that happens, I tend to buy now and think later.

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When they're in season, I often go and pick a big bag of blackberries,

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but these ones, on the turn, and on offer, have given me a fantastic idea.

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I'm done.

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Lovely.

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When you're needing inspiration for what to do with an abundance of seasonal foods,

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having a great relationship with your shopkeeper can be really useful.

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I love your little tips on the blackboard, the recipes.

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Well, we often get a lot of people coming in and not really knowing what to do,

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they kind of get stuck in their old ways and so we kind of try and help out a little bit, really.

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So...and fruit's brilliant at this time of year.

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That's a really, really nice idea.

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-Lovely. Thank you very much.

-There we go. Thank you.

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-See you later.

-Bye.

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This week, along with some of the regulars,

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I've got a plentiful supply of some delicious ripe ingredients.

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And I'm going to find some unusual ways to make the most of them.

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I don't usually think about my Sunday roast the night before,

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but those blackberries need to be used soon.

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And since I have the perfect plan,

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it's worth putting a bit of time in now for what will be an amazing Sunday lunch.

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The idea behind this is that I've got sharp but sweet blackberries

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and I'm going to cook them with a lovely piece of juicy fatty pork.

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Now, I can do this with a fork.

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but sometimes you just want to get your hands in there.

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And sometimes I like making a mess. The truth is you'll make a better job of it with your hands.

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You're going to crush all the berries,

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not to a jam, you actually want to feel there are a few whole berries in there.

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But you want to get all of that juice, because it's the juice that is going to marinade with the pork.

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I just want to make sure the juices from the fruit

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can find their way into my handsome piece of pork shoulder.

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Pork is one those quite rich meats with quite a bit of fat, so the idea of having fruit with it,

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something a little bit sweet, a little bit sharp, will help to cut through the fattiness.

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I'm going to leave this glorious looking thing in the fridge overnight,

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let the blackberries work their magic and then see what's happened in the morning.

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Just going to take out the piece of meat, put it into the roasting tin.

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And then all the blackberries and their juice need to go in with the pork.

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And then that simply goes in the oven, quite a low oven, about 160 for a good hour or more.

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This is lazy Sunday cooking at its best.

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In the roasting tin with the pork, I've got the most incredible juices,

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a mixture of the roasting juices from the pork and the blackberries,

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so savoury and a little bit sweet.

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And I want to harness all that flavour, I don't want to waste a drop of it.

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So, just before the pork has had its time basking in the heat,

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get some onions on to soften in a little olive oil.

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They're going to bulk out a fruity, flavoursome gravy.

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So while those soften, I'm going to get the joint out of the oven.

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This deep, almost black colour is nothing to be alarmed about.

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It's not burnt, it's just an intense blackberry crust.

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While the pork rests, I'm going to get to work on my sauce.

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I'm going to add a little bit of stock to it.

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All these sticky gooey bits on the tin are full of flavour, so just scrape away.

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A sprinkle of flour will help make my gravy lusciously thick.

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Then just ladle all of these fruit and pork juices in with the onions.

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Need some salt and pepper.

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It's sweet, it's sharp, it's savoury, it's everything I want it to be.

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It's just fabulous.

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That wonderful black-and-purple crust on the meat, it's all juicy inside,

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then that fruity crackling outside.

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A showstopper like this is well worth waiting for.

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Pork is a meat that just cries out for some fruity flavours.

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Beautiful purpley crust on the outside.

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If you can afford to take your time with cooking you'll really enjoy this recipe.

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This succulent joint showcases sweet and savoury flavours at their finest.

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And I could have made a jar of jam, with those blackberries, and I'm so glad I didn't.

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That is the best use for a glut of fruit I've ever seen.

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I wanted to make the most of the leftovers from yesterday's roast,

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but I wanted something very different.

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So I've balanced the sweetness of the blackberries with some sharp sour olives and lots of lemon juice.

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It's very, very different.

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It's a completely different flavour, and it was made in minutes.

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However you cook your pork roast, make sure you buy a joint big enough to feed you on Monday as well.

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It's easy to transform the leftovers into an entirely different dish.

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If you've got any of its juicy crackling left, by simply frying it,

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you can capture a dressing full of amazing flavour all over again.

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And adding a squeeze of lemon will give a fresh spark of sharpness.

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Slide in a few sliced green olives.

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And then simply dress some rocket leaves with the contents of the pan

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and carve up whatever slices of pork you can find to serve.

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It really is that simple to make the most of the lingering flavours second time around.

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Every fruit has its season, and figs really excite me when they arrive in abundance.

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They just work brilliantly in both sweet and savoury recipes.

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They don't always play ball though, and this week, mine haven't ripened as I'd hoped.

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But that's not an excuse to let them go to waste.

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What I love about flapjacks is that you've almost always got the ingredients in the cupboard.

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There's nearly always sugar, butter, oats and a little bit of dried fruit.

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I'm using golden caster sugar, I could have used Demerara, and I want 100g of it.

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It's the minute it starts to rain or the wind gets up.

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It's just that feeling that I want to be baking,

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and I want to make all those wonderful baking smells in the kitchen,

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when you get butter and flour and sugar and things.

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Use 150g of butter.

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I'm using maple syrup rather than golden syrup, because I love the flavour it gives.

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But also because it happens to be what I've got in the cupboard.

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And I want about 175ml of this.

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And all of that needs to be bubbled up into a big pan.

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And I'm using a coarse rolled oat...

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..which means that these are going to be very crumbly biscuits.

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They're not going to be like the sort of thing that you buy.

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These are very definitely homemade.

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And then for some dried fruit, 100g of sultanas and I've got some dried apricots.

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Combine all the ingredients into the bubbling buttery mixture.

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A few ground almonds will bring everything together into the sticky consistency I'm after.

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This is like I want my kitchen to smell every baking day, of hot syrup and butter and sugar.

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The mixture then just needs to be spooned into a lined baking tin.

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Sometimes, when these come out of the oven, I trickle melted chocolate over the top,

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just depends on how I'm feeling.

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Now, into that I'm going to put my figs.

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Most fruits that refuse to ripen as you want them to, all they need is a little bit of sugar and heat

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in order to be absolutely delicious.

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And then I'm just going to trickle a little bit more syrup on top.

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Going to bake these at 160, probably for about 20, 25 minutes.

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When figs are in season, they're cheap to buy.

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Whether ripened or not, I just knew this would put them to good use.

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Oh, look, look, look, look, it's all crumbly.

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That is gorgeous.

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It's buttery, and it's crumbly and it's sweet, and then you've got that little slice of fresh fig.

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That's a treat in anybody's books.

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I've made the best of those figs,

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and I've got a delicious batch of colourful delights to see me through the rest of the week.

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Chloe the greengrocer is a real champion of seizing the day

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with fresh ingredients that fill her shop as they spring into season.

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Oh, I love the way you keep your herbs.

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Oh, God, you can smell them.

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The minute you open the lid, it just wafts up.

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That is a perfect way to keep them.

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She's so generous sharing her recipe ideas with her customers,

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so I'm returning the favour by popping around to cook her a meal,

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using a vegetable that can often be a little neglected.

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So you've got a nice little pile of good things here.

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An abundance of veg.

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I suppose this is what you get in the home of somebody who runs a greengrocer's shop.

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That is very true, yes, we do end up bringing home quite a bit,

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it's just kind of part of the job isn't it, really.

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-Can I steal a couple of your courgettes?

-You sure can.

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So I can rummage through your cupboards, can't I?

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-May I use these?

-Yeah.

-These little pine nuts.

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The moment I saw those courgettes,

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I just had an idea of something that I think might be a new way of using these.

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-There are certain times of the year when it seems neverending courgettes.

-Mm-hm.

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I've never actually done this, but I've always wondered whether you could sort of use them as pasta.

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I'm not going to peel the courgette.

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I'm just going to take strips with a vegetable peeler all the way down the length.

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That's a new way of doing it.

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These courgettes will soak up a delicious pesto, starting with garlic as the backbone.

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Just a single clove of that, if I may.

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Do you find that since you've had the greengrocer's that your eating at home as changed?

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Definitely. I think veg has become the main part of our meal instead of a side.

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I love traditional greengrocer's, fishmonger's, cheesemonger's. I love them,

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and to actually see a shop...that's just filled me with inspiration.

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I mean, it is a very lovely shop.

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Your customers must presumably, as well as getting a bit of advice from you...

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I mean, I see all your recipes and things up...do they share tips with you and things?

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Yeah, definitely.

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People are always willing to share with you what they're doing with their vegetables,

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and there's a bit of proudness that goes with a lot of people and their cooking.

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-And there is a sense of community in that shop.

-Oh, definitely.

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Well, it's been a greengrocer's for 65 years

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and a lot of our customers have been there for more than 65 years.

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Then come the classic ingredients.

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Have you got any herbs in here?

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Yeah, I think we've got some nice fresh basil in there.

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I was hoping you'd say you'd got some basil.

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I'm just going to rough that up a bit.

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-Smell that basil!

-Smells really good, doesn't it?

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A splash of olive oil.

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The pine nuts.

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It's looking quite good.

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-Hmm, it looks great.

-Smells good.

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And a sprinkle of whatever cheese is in the fridge.

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Oh, pecorino!

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That's quite good looking.

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And the lemon will add freshness.

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Now for the courgettes.

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I'm going to pop all of these ribbons of courgette into there.

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On a fairly low heat because I don't actually want them to brown.

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I just want them to be very fresh.

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OK.

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That's pretty much done.

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A little taste.

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Oh, glory!

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That's better than I thought it'd be.

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Mmm.

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Oh, that's good.

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-So, there we are.

-That looks great.

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Oh, it smells good!

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Lovely.

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It's great that the pine nuts are still whole, it adds a bit more kind of texture and crunch, doesn't it?

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In pesto sauces I think they can be too smooth,

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and it just ends up like a basil paste,

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whereas if you leave the nuts in, you get that little bit of crunchiness.

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Well, I'm pleased with the lemon, it just freshens the whole thing up and with the pepperiness of the basil...

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Definitely, it's a great combination.

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I'm quite pleased with that.

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Any gardener or veg-shop owner will tell you when the courgettes are in season

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you can never find enough ways to cook them, and I think this is one of my favourites.

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There's a certain time of year, late summer,

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when the tomatoes ripen in the garden and their flavour is extraordinary.

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They are also in abundance in the shops and great value.

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whichever way I get them, I always end up with far too many,

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but I'm certainly not going to leave them hanging around.

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Peel a cucumber...

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..make big slices and scoop out the watery seeds.

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Then chop into bite-size chunks.

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Follow suit with a peeled avocado.

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Then my glut of tomatoes.

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Finely chop a red onion...

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..and combine everything in a bowl.

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Tear in some coriander leaves.

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Trickle in some sherry vinegar and olive oil.

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And adding a few flakes of smoked trout will liven things up.

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I really wanted to celebrate the freshness of the tomato, rather than using my glut for a sauce or a soup.

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This really is my favourite way to use up an abundance of them.

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It's so good.

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I like to keep stocked up with a few trusty tins,

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but when there's an offer on at the shops, I can get carried away and buy too many.

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I really don't like to leave them gathering dust in the cupboard,

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and, come the end of the week, those tins can be just the thing you reach for.

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I've got a duck breast. I bought it earlier in the week and haven't got round to using it.

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Now, it's really not worth putting the oven on for that,

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and I could grill it, but, you know, I think I'm just going to make a little one-pan supper.

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That skin will be really delicious when it's crisp.

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I'm just going to slash it a little bit, just so that it really crisps up in the pan.

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There's so much rich fat in that duck that I don't need to add anything else to the pan.

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No olive oil, no butter, because it's all there.

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Going to get that pan really quite hot.

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All the duck needs is a little bit of salt.

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Duck works beautifully with fruit, but I've already had my pork and blackberries,

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so instead, I'm going to balance its richness with something that may at first sound bland.

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I've got some cannellini beans.

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Take a little look at that skin.

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You want it to be really golden and already quite crisp before you turn it.

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Look at that.

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I could rinse these beans, but I'm just going to tip off some of this liquid,

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because I want some of that moisture in there.

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Add them to the pan and just give them a few minutes to sizzle with the duck.

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Whenever I see cannellini beans, I automatically think what herb I'm going to use with them,

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and very often it's rosemary.

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Already this has got a little bit of an Italian theme going to it,

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with the rosemary and the cannellini beans, and I do want a little bit more flavour in there.

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I'm going to experiment with some marsala.

0:26:160:26:18

This kind of fortified wine works wonders in cooking like this.

0:26:190:26:23

And smells of Christmas... straight away.

0:26:240:26:27

Not much.

0:26:300:26:31

Season the beans. They don't need much salt, but they will appreciate plenty of pepper.

0:26:330:26:39

What I'm hoping might happen is that if I crush the beans a little bit, you'll get a mixture of textures,

0:26:390:26:47

you'll get whole beans, some broken or crushed beans and then maybe even a sort of bean puree.

0:26:470:26:52

It makes it a much more interesting thing to eat.

0:26:520:26:54

Set the duck aside to rest.

0:26:590:27:02

And when it's had a few minutes, simply slice it up and serve with the beans.

0:27:100:27:15

This is just what I needed after a long week.

0:27:180:27:20

It's the creamy, almost blandness of the beans and then you've got the back note of rosemary and marsala...

0:27:250:27:31

..and it just works so beautifully with the richness of the duck.

0:27:320:27:35

It's a balanced dish and it was made, what, 10 minutes.

0:27:350:27:40

A comforting can of beans has turned into a real treat,

0:27:410:27:44

and the flavour of the crisp duck breast has transformed this dish.

0:27:440:27:49

This week, I've gorged guilt-free on some deliciously ripe foods...

0:27:560:28:01

..and a humble tin of beans came to my rescue.

0:28:020:28:06

Next time, I'll be making a few store-cupboard ingredients the star of the show,

0:28:080:28:12

by cooking a few recipes that prove everyday staples can be much more exciting than we think.

0:28:120:28:19

Very nice way to use up a pint of milk.

0:28:210:28:24

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