Nigel Slater's Simple Christmas Nigel Slater's Simple Cooking


Nigel Slater's Simple Christmas

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I'm Nigel Slater. I adore cooking at Christmas.

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For a couple of very special weeks,

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food becomes something magical - nostalgic even.

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For me, food is quite simply the essential ingredient

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in having a great time.

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Family and friends, good food and drink is all you need.

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Christmas doesn't need to be complicated.

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And special definitely doesn't have to mean stressful.

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You just need to keep it simple!

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That's a really lovely way to start a meal.

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So tonight I want to share the run-up to my Christmas.

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Before the big day, there's all my favourites.

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Like a luxurious hot pot and irresistible chocolate flapjacks.

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Delightful!

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And then Christmas Day itself,

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complete with sparkling sea bass starter,

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and a delicious roast duck.

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It's the most amazing smell.

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And a majestic festive trifle.

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And because no Christmas is complete without a party,

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I'll be off to Scotland to find out

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how Christmas is celebrated, Highland-style.

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That is delicious.

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This is one Christmas menu you won't want to be without.

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For me, festive food is the most special food of all.

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Christmas gives us all the perfect excuse to take our time,

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push the boat out, make a fuss of family and friends,

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and eat a bit more too!

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Lots of food. Too much food.

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Every meat you can eat, spread across the table.

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It's like Sunday roast on an epic scale, isn't it. It's fantastic.

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I'm from Yorkshire, so Yorkshire puddings and the works.

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We have goose in our house.

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We have roast goose that my mum probably puts on about 6am.

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You just smell it throughout the morning. It's lovely.

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We often toy with the idea of a goose or a duck, or some beef,

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but I can't get it past the wife, to be honest.

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She's a great fan of turkey.

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But Christmas isn't just one meal.

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It's lots of mini-feasts, leading up to the big day.

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My first festive supper was always a Slater Christmas favourite.

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This time of year always reminds me of my dad's one attempt at cooking.

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Every year, he'd go through the fridges,

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he'd go through the cupboards,

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and find all sorts of little goodies,

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and he'd make them into one huge stew.

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It was his annual contribution to the family table.

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And you know what? It was delicious.

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Sometimes it was better than others,

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but it was just a lovely thing for him to do.

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Every Christmas I love to carry on Dad's tradition,

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with my own version of his casserole.

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Sometimes I chuck in a bit of turkey or ham,

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but today I'm sticking to veg.

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A couple of onions will give me a base,

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cooked quite slowly with some butter until soft.

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And then some good wintry herbs.

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Rosemary's one of those herbs

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that sees you good right the way through the winter.

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Its stems and leaves are tough enough

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to stand the most fearsome frosts.

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And with this, one of my favourite spices of all - juniper.

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The wonderful thing about them is that they smell of gin and tonic.

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A bit of salt makes the berries easier to crush.

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So put the juniper and rosemary in with the onions.

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A couple of bay leaves as well.

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And instantly it smells like a frosty morning.

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There's something about juniper and rosemary

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that just have that frosty wintriness to them.

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The heart and soul of my casserole

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is going to be some good old winter veg.

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Even in mid winter I don't peel carrots.

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It's very rare that their outer skin is tough.

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They can just go in in big generous lumps.

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Follow that with any other sweet root veg.

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In my case parsnip and that unsung hero, swede.

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Keep all the vegetables roughly the same size,

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so they're ready at the same time.

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So I'm going to put that over a low heat, with a lid on,

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so the veggies get a chance to soak up all the butter,

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the spice and the herbs.

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If you've got a drop of Christmas booze hanging around,

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a splash will give this a sweet and mellow festive warmth.

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I'm using marsala, but madeira or dry sherry would be brilliant too.

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A spoonful of flour will help give me a lovely velvety sauce.

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Some people get so sniffy

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about putting a bit of flour in a casserole.

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I mean, seriously!

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As long as you cook it through,

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so you don't have a raw taste of flour,

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it's going to be absolutely fine.

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Now I want something else in there. Something a little bit meaty.

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I'm going to put some chestnuts in.

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Chestnuts make this a really Christmas-y casserole.

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Then everything's bought together with some hot stock.

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Turkey stock would be tasty here,

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but a good veg stock like this will work nicely too.

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Lastly, a twist of pepper.

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Give it up to half an hour

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to let the vegetables get to know each other.

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# Have yourself a merry little Christmas

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# Let your heart be light

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# From now on, our troubles will be out of sight... #

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Let's see how this is getting on.

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It's always worth tasting something halfway through,

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so that any additions you make to it have got time to work their magic.

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Don't leave your tasting till the end.

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That's nice enough, but it needs some beefiness to it.

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It needs some depth.

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I'm going to pop some mushrooms in.

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When my dad used to make this, he'd go through the cupboards,

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and he'd always end up doing that same old seasoning.

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It would be Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco.

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But these mushrooms will give me plenty of flavour.

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So all I'm adding is a handful of dried porcini for a bit of depth.

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Then a spoonful of mustard to balance the sweet vegetables.

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I'm using a grainy mustard. You can use smooth.

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Stir that in.

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After around half an hour,

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the veg should be soft and lovely and tender.

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A final addition is a spoonful of sweet redcurrant jelly.

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It'll make the sauce beautifully glossy.

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This is the bit of cooking I love above all others.

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It's the moment when you decide on the seasoning.

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You taste and you decide whether it needs a bit more salt,

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a bit of lemon juice, a bit of mustard.

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It's when you put your signature on a stew.

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It's got nothing to do with following recipes and cook books,

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it's all about your flavours.

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What you love.

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It's making sure everybody gets

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plenty of the sweet roots sauce

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and the mushrooms too.

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And just to make it a bit more festive,

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I'm finishing it all off with a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds.

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This is spoon and fork food, rather than knife and fork.

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Plenty of sauce, a mushroom.

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There's a good sweetness to that.

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It's from the root vegetables and the redcurrant jelly.

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Then there's a depth, an almost woodsy quality to it,

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which is from the mushrooms.

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It's cheap and it's exactly what I want to come back into the house for

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on a freezing cold day.

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Every Christmas I make this differently,

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depending on what's around.

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It's the sauce that really makes or breaks it though.

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So keep tasting and adjusting the flavours to suit you.

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I think my dad would be particularly proud of this one!

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There are some things that Christmas just wouldn't be Christmas without.

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Whether it's the little family traditions

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or the food we put on the table,

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the memories are what make this time of year so special.

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For me, the traditions begin at the start of the holidays,

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where there's one thing I definitely have to have around.

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This time of year,

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there's nearly always a big bowl of nuts in the house.

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There's walnuts, pecan nuts, almonds and hazelnuts.

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I have a real soft spot for Christmas nuts.

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One of the first things I bake is a big tray of chocolate nut flapjacks.

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A perfect treat for any carol singers

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or unexpected guests who pop by.

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I'm starting by chopping up some walnuts.

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But any of your Christmas nuts would be great.

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The recipes I really like at this time of year

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are the ones that are a little bit healthy, and a little bit naughty.

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Sort of saint and sinner all in one.

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Not just nuts but dried fruits as well.

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Things like wonderful dried figs.

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I remember my father used to buy lots of nuts.

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He'd line them up on the arm of the chair.

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When they were all shelled, he'd then start to eat them.

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It was sort of like a Christmas and New Year ritual.

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You really can throw in any dried fruits and nuts here.

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Along with my walnuts and figs, I'm trying some sour cherries,

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cranberries, and a handful of pumpkin seeds.

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Give it a quick blitz. I don't want it to be too fine.

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I want my biscuits to have quite a bit of texture to them.

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A spoonful of ground almonds will help bring the mixture together.

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A few whole pumpkins seeds.

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I want this to have a really crunchy texture.

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That's enough healthy stuff. Time for a treat.

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Some butter.

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About 100g of sugar in there as well.

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I want something really sticky.

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I'm going to use a bit of golden syrup. You could use maple syrup.

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Stir, very gently

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the melted butter,

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the golden syrup

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and the caster sugar.

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A mix of fine porridge oats and coarser rolled oats

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will give my flapjacks a soft, chewy texture.

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You could use either, or both.

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Turn the heat off and then I mix in all the dried fruits and nuts.

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Make sure the mixture is well padded in the baking tray

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so it doesn't go crumbly.

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That goes in the oven at 160 for about 25 minutes.

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# Just hear those sleigh bells jing-a-ling

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# Ring-ting-ting-a-ling too

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# Come on, it's lovely weather for a sleigh ride together with you

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# Outside the snow is falling and friends are calling you-hoo

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# Come on it's lovely weather for a sleigh ride together with you

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# Ting-a-ling-a-ling a ling-long-ling!

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# Ting-a-ling-a-ling a ling-long-ling!

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# Ting-a-ling-a-ling a ling-long-ling!

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# Ting-a-ling-a-ling a ting-long-ling!... #

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These flapjacks would be great as they are,

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but my Christmas version always includes some silky chocolate.

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Heat a bar or two of your favourite

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over some simmering water until it's runny.

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Dunk!

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This is partly flapjack, partly Muesli bar,

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and partly chocolate biscuit.

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It's rather having a healthy main course,

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followed by a slightly naughty pudding.

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You could send me off to school with these in my tuck box

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and I'd love you for ever.

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I know Christmas has officially started

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when these make an appearance.

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Just make sure you get first dibs because they'll go really quick.

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That's crisp and chewy.

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And it feels partly very good for me and partly a little bit naughty.

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It suits me fine.

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I couldn't think of a better way to celebrate

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the start of the holidays than with these gorgeous flapjacks.

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A perfect treat for Christmas visitors.

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I might even save one for Santa.

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I always associate Christmas with the cold.

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And, frankly, the frostier the weather,

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the more magical the experience is.

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So, I've come to the chilly north east coast of Scotland

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and to a farm where the McKenzies do Christmas traditionally.

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Robert and his friend, Andy, usually organise the parties

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and have invited me to come and see how they do it, Highland style.

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Christmas and New Year in the Highlands is a big event.

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There's lot of parties in all the various farm houses

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and castles and whatever round about.

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And, er, it's a great time for everyone to get together

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and lots of eating, drinking, dancing

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- all the cliches you think of the Highlands.

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They actually come together Christmas and New Year time. It's good fun.

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Of course there's only one place to throw a real Highland gathering -

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a castle.

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Luckily, Robert's friends happen to own one!

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It's very nice to cook in a castle kitchen. How come?

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There is a bit of a story behind this castle here.

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About 100 years ago, my great grandfather farmed off this farm.

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This castle here was a ruin. And the current owner who restored it

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was a good friend of my dad's at school.

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It was a total ruin!

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It was a total ruin. A few bits of stone here and a few there.

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Right open to the skies, it was inhabited by sheep.

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It's a very special place,

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because it's coming back to my old family roots

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and it's been totally transformed.

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Quite often at Christmas and New Year,

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we're always down here for parties. And lots of food, dancing.

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Do you like a party up here?

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We can't just pop out to the cinema or, er...

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Most of us have probably been banned from the pub at some point.

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So, you've got to go to wherever they'll take you.

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Every year, the boys cook venison for their guests,

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but, this Christmas, they're adding a new twist.

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It's the first year Robert has produced oil

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from the family's rapeseed harvest,

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so they're using that to cook something special.

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They want to try it out on me first.

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Robert's starting by blistering some whole chillies.

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That oil is very special.

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Now, I wouldn't ever cook with my best olive oil.

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Why would I cook with my best rapeseed oil?

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This is a special occasion.

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We're hoping tonight to cook for some of our friends and family

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and, with the rapeseed oil, it has a higher flashpoint.

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You can cook to higher temperatures.

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So, you can get it hot, before it starts to smoke and burn.

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Exactly that! The very light flavour of the rapeseed oil,

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and the butteriness, the grassiness, it compliments the venison perfectly.

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Andy's carving his meat straight from the bone,

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but you can get your butcher to do this all for you.

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And, dare I ask, if I didn't want to use venison for this,

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what else could I do it with?

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Beef. It's a very similar meat - red meat. Anything.

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That is a good hunk of meat.

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Very lean.

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Less fat than skinless chicken.

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What's the point of skinless chicken?

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We're just sort of blistering up the skins of chillies.

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And, er, the oil will be taking on some of the heat from the skin.

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A couple of softened red onions will add sweetness.

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So, do you cook a lot?

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Yeah.

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It seems to be Rob and I though, the ones who cook.

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Although all of our friends are pretty handy.

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And everyone up here can cook

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because everyone's got so much produce.

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But it does seem to be Rob and I that usually take on the task

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and feed the thousands.

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I think we're ready for some venison in the pan.

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So, it depends how you like your steaks.

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I like mine rare, so about two minutes on each side.

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But the key thing about this is always undercook your steaks.

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You can always put them back in but you can't take them out.

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Do you let venison rest, the way you would beef?

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Ideally I'd let it rest for the same amount of time you'd cook it for.

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So, if you cook it for about two minutes either side,

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rest it for two minutes.

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Well, it's a nice rule of thumb. I can remember that.

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To me, straight away, that is a beautiful pan of food.

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Yeah.

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It looks fabulous even before you put it on the plate.

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You've got the golden oil. You've got a crust on the meat.

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And the chillies and the onions. That's fabulous.

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Andy's throwing in a few dried figs for a bit of bite.

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The seeds in the figs kind of pop when you start eating them.

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-That crunchy popping.

-Yeah, yeah.

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It goes really well with the texture of the meat.

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How could you resist that? Just putting it on the table as it is?

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It looks beautiful.

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The boys' final addition is a good glug

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of a very traditional venison accompaniment - port.

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And a slosh of balsamic vinegar.

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That's local.

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It is, yeah.

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Then there's the all-important couple of minutes' rest,

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before Andy can dish up.

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Just look at all that...

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All those gooey, sticky bits of lovely flavour.

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-I'm going to try and scrape off...

-Please do.

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That looks splendid.

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I love the sweetness of the figs and the onions.

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And the chilli. There is a bit of heat there.

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There really is.

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-I'm loving this. This is sumptuous. Thank you so much.

-Our pleasure.

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If the boys cook like this for their party,

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I think their guests are in for a real treat.

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Taking a break from the kitchen over Christmas is a must.

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An afternoon in the fresh air always works up a great appetite.

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You never know, you might pick up a couple of tips

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to take back to the kitchen as well.

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Lovely smell of the roasted chestnuts.

0:22:030:22:05

All you've got to do it make sure

0:22:050:22:07

that you just cut each of the chestnuts.

0:22:070:22:10

They tend to pop otherwise.

0:22:100:22:11

A nice, warm place to be as well, on a cold day,

0:22:110:22:13

stood in front of the chestnuts.

0:22:130:22:15

Chestnuts and mince pies

0:22:210:22:22

might be traditional Christmas fare for most,

0:22:220:22:25

but, for me, the holidays as a lad bring back memories

0:22:250:22:28

of something a bit different.

0:22:280:22:30

When I was a boy, you could always tell what time of year it was

0:22:340:22:37

by the sort of cheese we had in the house.

0:22:370:22:40

At this time of year, there was always a bit of blue.

0:22:400:22:43

Even now, I have to have Stilton at Christmas.

0:22:450:22:48

Every year, it makes its first appearance a couple of days

0:22:480:22:51

before the big day -

0:22:510:22:52

when I use it to make this luxurious winter slaw.

0:22:520:22:56

Red cabbage and blue cheese are a perfect pairing,

0:23:000:23:02

so that's going to be my base.

0:23:020:23:04

Fennel is one of those crisp, wintry tastes.

0:23:060:23:10

It reminds me of when I was a kid and used to go to the sweet shop.

0:23:100:23:13

It's that same aniseed flavour.

0:23:130:23:16

Whenever I think of celery, I think of apples.

0:23:160:23:21

It's the old ploughman's lunch thing.

0:23:210:23:23

You can't beat a British apple with celery and cheese,

0:23:230:23:26

the sharper the better in my kitchen.

0:23:260:23:29

A good squeeze of lemon will stop them going brown.

0:23:290:23:32

I want a slightly different texture to my salad -

0:23:340:23:36

one that's as seasonal as Santa - lovely, crisp walnuts.

0:23:360:23:41

This is the best time of year for walnuts.

0:23:430:23:46

When they're still very pale inside.

0:23:460:23:48

The paler the walnut, the sweeter it is.

0:23:480:23:52

You can buy them ready shelled but it's not half as much fun.

0:23:520:23:58

You need about eight to ten good sized nuts here.

0:23:580:24:02

You could you pecans or cashews,

0:24:020:24:04

anything that will add a bit of crunch.

0:24:040:24:07

All nuts taste really good straight from the shell.

0:24:080:24:11

But that flavour intensifies almost tenfold when you toast them.

0:24:110:24:16

Even for a salad, I'd want to do that.

0:24:160:24:19

This will need a dressing.

0:24:260:24:28

I'm after something clean and bright,

0:24:280:24:30

so I'm making a base with red wine vinegar -

0:24:300:24:33

the salt just softens its sharpness.

0:24:330:24:35

A teaspoon or so of smooth, mild mustard

0:24:380:24:40

and then some oil... groundnut feels like it fits.

0:24:400:24:44

Then, because of what's happening in the salad,

0:24:460:24:49

with the nuts and the apples, I've got some walnut oil.

0:24:490:24:53

You don't need much walnut oil. It's got really good flavour.

0:24:530:24:57

Then it's just a case of adding the final bits -

0:25:090:25:12

the apples, toasted walnuts

0:25:120:25:15

and, of course, my very festive bit of blue.

0:25:150:25:19

What I don't want to do is to make a creamy cheese dressing.

0:25:210:25:26

I want to have discernible pieces

0:25:260:25:28

with this beautiful Stilton in my salad.

0:25:280:25:31

I'm just going to crumble the pieces.

0:25:340:25:36

Tufts from the fennel, I'm not going to waste those.

0:25:590:26:03

Crisp textures, quite strong flavours.

0:26:080:26:12

Great colours for a cold day.

0:26:120:26:17

Delightful!

0:26:250:26:27

This is my favourite alternative to the traditional Christmas coleslaw.

0:26:340:26:37

It's brighter and fresher and the strong flavours and crisp textures

0:26:370:26:42

never fail to get the taste buds going, ready for the feast to come.

0:26:420:26:46

At Christmas, it's not just about the food.

0:27:060:27:09

It's about who you share it with.

0:27:090:27:11

It doesn't need to be a fancy meal - just a sociable, happy one.

0:27:110:27:16

That's what people remember,

0:27:160:27:18

not whether you burnt the sprouts or not!

0:27:180:27:21

My family tend to visit all the other relatives in the family.

0:27:210:27:25

We jump in the car, drive to one house, get fed.

0:27:250:27:27

Go to another, get fed.

0:27:270:27:28

It's about eating as many dinners as we could really

0:27:280:27:31

over the course of the day.

0:27:310:27:33

We live in a lovely little village and I've got three kids now.

0:27:370:27:40

So we carry a lot of those traditions on.

0:27:400:27:42

There's a really nice carol service in the Market Square, Christmas Eve,

0:27:420:27:47

where they serve a lot of mulled wine and mince pies.

0:27:470:27:52

Can you see the Christmas tree?

0:27:520:27:54

For me, Christmas Day is all about making that extra bit of effort.

0:27:560:28:00

Which is why this year I'm going all out -

0:28:000:28:03

with a stunning little sea bass starter,

0:28:030:28:06

an even tastier alternative to turkey,

0:28:060:28:10

a brand new festive fizz.

0:28:100:28:13

And the real icing on the cake -

0:28:130:28:15

my gorgeous trifle

0:28:150:28:17

that no Christmas is complete without.

0:28:170:28:21

But first, there's the Christmas Eve tea.

0:28:350:28:38

It's usually a humble treat to make sure there's plenty of room

0:28:380:28:41

for the next day's feast.

0:28:410:28:43

This is my favourite - it's quick, easy,

0:28:430:28:46

and has a bit of luxury to it too.

0:28:460:28:48

There's a lovely way with mackerel - smoked mackerel -

0:28:510:28:55

that just involves peeling off the skin,

0:28:550:29:00

crumbling the fish into a dish,

0:29:000:29:03

you can do it with smoked trout as well.

0:29:030:29:05

Probably do it with sardines.

0:29:050:29:07

And mash in a bit of cream.

0:29:070:29:10

Grate a little bit of cheese into it. I'm using Parmesan.

0:29:120:29:16

A twist of black pepper.

0:29:190:29:20

Just a few chives.

0:29:220:29:25

Fold the fish and the cream,

0:29:260:29:31

cheese and chives together.

0:29:310:29:34

I could put a little bit of ground chilli in there.

0:29:490:29:52

Something with a little bit of heat.

0:29:520:29:54

But I've got something much better.

0:29:540:29:57

The traditional accompaniment for smoked fish.

0:30:020:30:06

Fresh horseradish.

0:30:060:30:08

Not much. It's got quite a pep to it.

0:30:080:30:10

You can pick up horseradish

0:30:100:30:12

at any farmers' market or good greengrocers.

0:30:120:30:16

Most people associate it with roast beef,

0:30:160:30:18

but I love it even more with smoked fish.

0:30:180:30:21

A little bit more cream. A tiny bit more cheese.

0:30:250:30:28

And then back under the grill.

0:30:320:30:34

A very smart cheese on toast.

0:30:500:30:52

After all the usual last-minute shopping and present wrapping,

0:31:090:31:13

this is my perfect Christmas Eve supper.

0:31:130:31:16

Makes a great hangover brunch too!

0:31:160:31:18

I'm spending the day with Robert and Andy in the Scottish Highlands

0:31:380:31:42

where I've been invited to a Christmas gathering

0:31:420:31:45

here at their friend's castle.

0:31:450:31:47

But first, I've offered to give the boys a break

0:31:470:31:50

from the preparations, and make a special lunch.

0:31:500:31:53

I'm not sure it's going to be as delicious as what you cooked for me,

0:31:530:31:57

but I'm going to have a go.

0:31:570:31:58

What I want to do is make like a big soup, a family soup.

0:31:580:32:01

I'm keeping this simple - smoked haddock, milk and a few peppercorns.

0:32:010:32:07

I'm going to pop that on the heat for a bit.

0:32:070:32:10

-If you see it boil over, tell me.

-OK!

0:32:100:32:12

These handsome local leeks will form a great base for my soup.

0:32:150:32:19

-I love leeks.

-You know, I love leeks!

0:32:190:32:22

-When I was a kid, I used to have them in cheese sauce.

-Yeah.

0:32:220:32:26

Just a great supper.

0:32:280:32:29

'The leeks just need softening in a little oil

0:32:290:32:32

'with some spring onion and a couple of rashers of bacon.'

0:32:320:32:37

-I'm putting a bit of swede in. Only because...

-Turnip.

0:32:370:32:44

You call that a turnip? Yeah, you see, I call it a swede.

0:32:440:32:47

Whatever it is, it's going in the soup.

0:32:470:32:50

'A few little pieces of cauliflower will add a bit of crunch.'

0:32:590:33:02

I used to have a habit of making a big Friday soup

0:33:040:33:07

where I'd stick everything that was left in the way of veg in the soup

0:33:070:33:11

and we'd have it all weekend.

0:33:110:33:12

I think that's what soups are for.

0:33:120:33:15

That's what I was taught. My mum would always say,

0:33:150:33:18

"If the veg at the back of the fridge is sliding its way out,

0:33:180:33:23

"toss it into some soup."

0:33:230:33:24

Using the milk the haddock has been poached in

0:33:260:33:29

is an easy way to give the soup a lovely smoky flavour.

0:33:290:33:33

These are beautiful.

0:33:340:33:36

The final ingredient is some amazing locally caught wild mussels.

0:33:360:33:40

They just need heating in a pan with some oil

0:33:400:33:43

for a couple of minutes, to open them.

0:33:430:33:46

I'm just going to pop the fish into the soup.

0:33:470:33:51

Can we use any fish? Does it have to be haddock or can we use...?

0:33:520:33:57

-No, you can use...

-Anything.

-The lovely thing about using this

0:33:570:34:01

is that you get all the smoky flavours.

0:34:010:34:03

But, yes, you can use anything.

0:34:030:34:05

I can't believe how juicy these mussels are. Look at that.

0:34:100:34:13

Great. Love it.

0:34:150:34:18

A good simmer is a sign we're ready to go.

0:34:180:34:21

-It really is a main dish, isn't it?

-It IS a main dish.

0:34:290:34:33

But, as I say,

0:34:330:34:34

it's one of those dishes that could be for a special occasion,

0:34:340:34:39

but, also, if you want to put more potatoes in it and things,

0:34:390:34:43

it can actually be a very cheap supper.

0:34:430:34:46

-Thank you very much.

-Thank you. This looks delicious.

0:34:500:34:54

Nice mussels.

0:34:570:34:59

-The sea and the countryside coming together.

-It is, isn't it?

0:35:020:35:07

So good. What about sticking a bit of sherry in it?

0:35:070:35:12

Mm. A bit of white wine. A bit of dry sherry.

0:35:120:35:15

A little bit of cider maybe.

0:35:150:35:18

This is a great soup. I love it.

0:35:190:35:22

I'll cook for you again. You say nice things.

0:35:220:35:26

You can definitely cook for us again.

0:35:260:35:28

What are you doing next weekend?

0:35:280:35:30

You can really play around with this soup -

0:35:300:35:33

skip the mussels and try different winter veg if you like.

0:35:330:35:36

For ideas on how to put your spin on all my Christmas recipes,

0:35:380:35:41

have a look at the website...

0:35:410:35:43

For most of us,

0:36:010:36:04

it's the night before Christmas that's particularly magical.

0:36:040:36:08

Probably because it involves the simplest, most special meal of all.

0:36:080:36:12

We did have a tradition where we used to put mince pies

0:36:150:36:18

and a glass of wine out for Santa -

0:36:180:36:20

always used to get eaten and drunk.

0:36:200:36:23

Dad was often late out of bed on Christmas morning,

0:36:230:36:26

but that was a definite tradition.

0:36:260:36:29

Once Santa has had his fill, it's our turn.

0:36:340:36:39

The Christmas Day feast has finally arrived and, for me,

0:36:390:36:41

there's only way to kick it off.

0:36:410:36:43

When I was little, I always knew it was Christmas

0:36:430:36:46

because we had tropical fruits in the house.

0:36:460:36:49

It was the only time we ever saw a pineapple.

0:36:490:36:54

And there were other fruits too.

0:36:550:36:57

Things like passion fruit. And it's the seeds that I absolutely love.

0:36:570:37:02

That crispness that you get.

0:37:020:37:05

Along with that little snap of acidity.

0:37:060:37:09

It replaces lemon juice in things like a dressing for fish.

0:37:090:37:13

In fact, this is one of my favourite ways to do fish.

0:37:130:37:16

It makes a sensational little Christmas starter

0:37:160:37:19

and there's no cooking involved either.

0:37:190:37:21

I think you'll like this one.

0:37:210:37:23

This dressing is the star here.

0:37:250:37:27

It needs to be quite sharp,

0:37:270:37:29

so along with the juice and seeds of a few passion fruit,

0:37:290:37:32

I'm adding a couple of fresh citrus fruits.

0:37:320:37:35

And if you make that dressing acidic enough...with some lime juice...

0:37:350:37:41

..maybe a little bit of orange,

0:37:420:37:44

you can actually use it to cook the raw fish. You don't heat it...

0:37:440:37:49

you just put the fish in this very sharp, acidic dressing

0:37:490:37:53

and you leave it for a good hour,

0:37:530:37:56

maybe even overnight,

0:37:560:37:58

and you end up with the freshest-tasting fish.

0:37:580:38:02

It makes a lovely first course.

0:38:020:38:04

This dressing will need sweetness.

0:38:060:38:08

Normally I'd use sugar, but for a treat I'm adding vanilla.

0:38:080:38:11

What I do...is slit it...

0:38:110:38:15

..right the way down the length...

0:38:180:38:21

open it up and, inside, these sticky little black seeds.

0:38:210:38:27

I'm treating myself to some seabass, but you can use other fish too.

0:38:330:38:38

I could use prawns, I could use trout, a bit of tuna.

0:38:380:38:41

I love the cooking at this time of year.

0:38:470:38:50

I love the richness of it, the sweetness, I love all the booze,

0:38:500:38:55

but there comes a point when I want something that's clean and fresh

0:38:550:38:59

and simple, and that's exactly this dish.

0:38:590:39:02

Make sure your fish is thinly sliced and evenly spread in a single layer

0:39:020:39:06

before spooning over the dressing, just to make sure

0:39:060:39:09

that the juice has a chance to cook each bit right through.

0:39:090:39:13

For a little kick and a festive flash of colour,

0:39:140:39:18

a sprinkling of de-seeded chillies is going in too.

0:39:180:39:21

Then simply cover and keep cool.

0:39:210:39:24

It'll need at least an hour, but overnight would be even better.

0:39:240:39:28

There's no oven needed here. The fridge is where the magic happens

0:39:290:39:33

as the acidic juices cold cook the fish.

0:39:330:39:36

Now, I'd put that on the table probably just as it is.

0:39:380:39:41

But I think it deserves a little bit of green herb.

0:39:410:39:46

I'm going to use a bit of chive.

0:39:460:39:49

I put them on now rather than at the beginning

0:39:540:39:58

because it can make the dressing a bit too onion-y.

0:39:580:40:00

As it's for me, I'm going to put a little bit of coriander on.

0:40:020:40:07

I know not everybody loves it, but I do.

0:40:070:40:11

It's a very long way from my dad's Christmas fruit bowl,

0:40:110:40:14

but it's got the same spirit of adventure and the same excitement.

0:40:140:40:19

The fish is quite soft. It's got the crunch of those little seeds.

0:40:340:40:39

And you've got this lovely balance of refreshing,

0:40:400:40:43

slightly sharp juice

0:40:430:40:46

and a little nip of chives.

0:40:460:40:49

That's a really lovely way to start a meal.

0:40:500:40:53

This way of cooking might feel a bit unusual,

0:40:560:40:59

but you really have to give it a go.

0:40:590:41:01

Even better, it's the perfect starter to make ahead.

0:41:010:41:04

The result is a surprising and refreshing dish

0:41:040:41:07

that will impress any Christmas Day guest.

0:41:070:41:09

In the Highlands, the sun is setting on my day with Rob and Andy.

0:41:240:41:28

There's one last thing they've asked me to do ahead of their party -

0:41:280:41:32

create a new festive tipple for the toast.

0:41:320:41:35

I'm no expert cocktail maker, but here goes.

0:41:350:41:38

So what do you drink at Christmas and New Year?

0:41:380:41:41

Always a bit of champagne and a couple of drams in the evening.

0:41:410:41:45

I haven't done this before, but I'm just thinking of a drink

0:41:450:41:50

that's going to be a little bit refreshing

0:41:500:41:52

cos, at Christmas, I always think the food is so rich...

0:41:520:41:56

Actually, for me, it's really good to have something quite fruity

0:41:590:42:03

and a little bit fizzy.

0:42:030:42:06

I was wondering about putting a little bit of apple brandy in here.

0:42:080:42:13

A little bit of apple juice...

0:42:140:42:16

Oh, it smells amazing!

0:42:160:42:19

Yeah.

0:42:190:42:21

You know what I'm thinking?

0:42:210:42:23

Because I want this really chilled and I'm thinking of the fruit,

0:42:230:42:28

you've got some fruit in your freezer, haven't you?

0:42:280:42:31

Yeah, we've got blackcurrants, damsons,

0:42:310:42:34

-raspberries.

-Raspberries. Would you?

0:42:340:42:38

-Yeah, I'll get some.

-We won't drink it all while you're gone!

0:42:380:42:42

So as well as the apple brandy,

0:42:440:42:46

I'm adding a dash of fresh apple juice and a shaving of apple peel.

0:42:460:42:49

You know like you put a lemon twist...in some drinks? Well,

0:42:510:42:56

-as it's apple based...

-Looks good.

0:42:560:43:00

Ha-hah! Are these your mum's raspberries?

0:43:000:43:03

No, they're actually a friend of mine from Perthshire - Doug's.

0:43:040:43:08

Better than an ice cube, isn't it?

0:43:100:43:13

-Yeah.

-Looks great.

-Four or five in each.

0:43:130:43:15

And then some fizz. I'm not using really posh fizz,

0:43:170:43:20

I don't think there's any point, really.

0:43:200:43:22

You can tell a lot about a man by the way he opens a champagne cork.

0:43:220:43:26

Really?! Do tell.

0:43:260:43:29

Well, does he go off with a bang or is it a quiet fizz?

0:43:290:43:33

POP!

0:43:330:43:34

Hey! Oh!

0:43:340:43:36

-Well, it looks festive.

-Yeah. Thank you very much.

-Nice glasses.

0:43:450:43:49

-Well, cheers.

-Cheers. Merry Christmas.

-Yeah.

-Merry Christmas.

0:43:490:43:53

-Really nice.

-It's lovely.

0:43:570:44:01

Quite amazing to be drinking a champagne drink

0:44:010:44:05

but you get that warming sensation as well from the calvados.

0:44:050:44:09

And then at the bottom, we get raspberries.

0:44:090:44:12

Which have soaked up all the alcohol.

0:44:120:44:14

Which have soaked up the alcohol! You've done this before!

0:44:140:44:17

It's kind of like a sexy cider... Do you know what I mean?

0:44:170:44:23

Sexy cider will do for me!

0:44:230:44:25

That is delicious! Seriously delicious.

0:44:250:44:28

It is, isn't it? I'm still drinking it.

0:44:280:44:31

I'm quite pleased with this one!

0:44:330:44:35

I just hope it goes down as well with Robert and Andy's guests later.

0:44:350:44:39

The Christmas main course has to be the most special of all.

0:44:480:44:52

Ever since I was little,

0:44:520:44:53

I've had a hunch that the simpler the dish, the tastier the results.

0:44:530:44:57

To this day whenever I see a duck,

0:45:050:45:07

I think it must be a special occasion.

0:45:070:45:10

When I was a kid we used to have them,

0:45:100:45:12

albeit boil in the bag with orange sauce.

0:45:120:45:14

And it was delicious.

0:45:140:45:15

But now whenever anybody special is coming

0:45:150:45:18

or it's a special occasion, then I'll roast a duck.

0:45:180:45:23

And what could be more special than the Christmas day lunch?

0:45:260:45:29

Turkey is great, but to me, duck feels even more festive

0:45:290:45:33

and I reckon easier to cook too!

0:45:330:45:35

I roast my duck on top of a really savoury base,

0:45:390:45:41

which I start off on the hob

0:45:410:45:43

with a few bits of bacon, fried over a low heat.

0:45:430:45:46

Then some potatoes, which will cook in the wonderful fat

0:45:460:45:49

from the duck as it roasts.

0:45:490:45:51

I love the skin. I love the meat.

0:45:540:45:57

But I sometimes think the best of all is the duck fat.

0:45:590:46:02

It's a very savoury fat. It's got masses of flavour.

0:46:020:46:06

And it's good with the duck,

0:46:060:46:09

but it's even better if you can use it for cooking things in.

0:46:090:46:12

Best of all is when that duck fat

0:46:120:46:17

is cooked with potatoes.

0:46:170:46:21

Roughly slicing the potatoes will help them to cook quicker.

0:46:210:46:25

I'm just going to add an onion.

0:46:250:46:27

What I'm doing is making a savoury base

0:46:300:46:34

that will soak up the duck fat as it roasts.

0:46:340:46:40

A little bit of seasoning.

0:46:430:46:45

You could use sage here. Use a bit of rosemary.

0:46:490:46:53

I'm going to use thyme.

0:46:530:46:56

Thyme takes longer to cook down and release its flavours,

0:46:580:47:02

making it a perfect herb for any Christmas roast.

0:47:020:47:06

Smells great already and I haven't even got the duck in.

0:47:090:47:13

When the potatoes, onions and bacon are warmed through,

0:47:130:47:16

simply pop the duck on top.

0:47:160:47:18

He needs a little bit of seasoning in the form of salt and pepper.

0:47:200:47:24

I'm just going to prick him all over with a fork.

0:47:240:47:28

Just to make sure some of his fat runs out into the spuds.

0:47:280:47:32

I think he just needs a bay leaf.

0:47:330:47:35

Tuck him in there.

0:47:450:47:46

And then into a hot oven at 200 degrees.

0:47:500:47:54

My Christmas duck has to have perfectly crisp skin,

0:48:150:48:18

so after a good couple of hours, I separate it from the potato base,

0:48:180:48:24

and then give it an extra few minutes

0:48:240:48:27

at an even higher temperature.

0:48:270:48:29

You can keep these potatoes warm underneath.

0:48:310:48:34

After about ten minutes, the duck needs to rest a while

0:48:340:48:37

leaving me plenty of time to make a quick sauce.

0:48:370:48:41

There's masses of flavour in that pan

0:48:430:48:45

so I'm going to pour in a little bit of appropriate booze.

0:48:450:48:49

Could be dry sherry. Could be Madeira, Marsala.

0:48:510:48:55

I think this is what heaven must smell like.

0:49:000:49:02

When you pour fortified wine into a roasting pan

0:49:020:49:05

full of all the roasting goodies.

0:49:050:49:08

It is the most amazing smell.

0:49:080:49:10

It's a smell that just says good times.

0:49:100:49:15

It's about special occasions. It's about friends and family.

0:49:150:49:19

It's about all the good things, all the reasons that I cook,

0:49:190:49:22

are all in this pan.

0:49:220:49:24

Scrapping up all those little toasted,

0:49:240:49:28

stuck on goodies and dissolving them into the juices.

0:49:280:49:32

I'll take that to the table as it is,

0:49:390:49:42

just spruce him up a bit.

0:49:420:49:46

Great flavours and it smells wonderful.

0:49:460:49:49

It smells like a good time.

0:49:490:49:52

A very, very good time.

0:49:520:49:54

This roast duck is as special to me now

0:50:040:50:06

as that boil-in-the-bag duck was when I was a kid.

0:50:060:50:09

If you want to impress this Christmas Day without much effort,

0:50:090:50:13

this handsome bird is the one to cook.

0:50:130:50:16

Christmas day dessert has to be magical,

0:50:340:50:38

and definitely a family favourite.

0:50:380:50:42

It's the perfect time to have a bit of fun...

0:50:420:50:44

..whether it's lighting the Christmas pudding...

0:50:460:50:50

or creating a majestic cheese board...

0:50:500:50:53

for me, the meal has to end on a food high.

0:50:530:50:57

My final dish for Christmas Day is the most special of all.

0:51:030:51:09

This is my luxurious twist on the classic Christmas Day trifle.

0:51:100:51:15

The secret is a homemade sponge base.

0:51:150:51:19

The lovely thing is, that if you make your own cake for a trifle...

0:51:190:51:23

..you can flavour it with whatever you like.

0:51:250:51:27

The sponge doesn't have to be fancy. I use a basic recipe

0:51:290:51:33

that I then add something festive to, at the end.

0:51:330:51:36

So firstly, butter and caster sugar are beaten until light and fluffy.

0:51:370:51:42

Then some eggs,

0:51:450:51:46

followed by a mixture of plain flour and ground almonds,

0:51:460:51:50

all mixed together until soft and luscious.

0:51:500:51:53

Then I can start adding those extra festive flavours.

0:51:550:51:58

I've only got to stick my thumbnail into a Clementine,

0:51:580:52:02

and suddenly it's this time of year again.

0:52:020:52:05

It doesn't matter when I do it,

0:52:050:52:07

it just reminds me... of cold, frosty days.

0:52:070:52:11

When I was a kid,

0:52:110:52:12

these used to come wrapped in different coloured tinfoil,

0:52:120:52:16

and bits of white tissue.

0:52:160:52:18

Now they just come in a net bag,

0:52:180:52:21

but they're still a wonderful flavouring for cakes and for pastry.

0:52:210:52:25

The juice can go in, as well. Go easy, though -

0:52:250:52:28

too much will make the cake mix wet.

0:52:280:52:30

I want this trifle to have the essence of Christmas about it,

0:52:300:52:34

and Clementine zest is not enough.

0:52:340:52:36

I'm actually going to put a bit of mincemeat in it.

0:52:370:52:40

It's one of those bits in the fridge that's leftover from the mince pies,

0:52:400:52:44

and it's such a delicious ingredient.

0:52:440:52:46

It always saddens me that it's used for such a short time each year.

0:52:460:52:50

Those wonderful dried fruits and sugar and citrus that's in there.

0:52:520:52:56

It fills the kitchen with the most amazing smell when it's baking.

0:52:560:53:02

Then that goes in the oven at 180 for about 35 minutes.

0:53:020:53:07

While the cake's baking,

0:53:150:53:16

I use the time to make the rest of my Christmas trifle

0:53:160:53:21

even more special.

0:53:210:53:22

I like my trifles to have layers...

0:53:220:53:25

..but I'm not keen on a layer of jelly.

0:53:270:53:30

I did when I was about nine,

0:53:300:53:33

but NOW I want a layer of something a bit more interesting.

0:53:330:53:37

What I do is to make a homemade curd.

0:53:370:53:41

I could buy it - there's some really good orange and lemon curds about,

0:53:420:53:47

but I like making my own.

0:53:470:53:49

I think the little kitchen tasks that I love the best

0:53:510:53:54

are the ones that make the kitchen smell heavenly.

0:53:540:53:57

Marmalade making, baking a cake,

0:53:590:54:04

even making a piece of toast... I love the smell.

0:54:040:54:07

It's homely and it's warm and it's friendly,

0:54:070:54:10

and it brings everybody into the kitchen saying,

0:54:100:54:13

"Oh, what are you making?"

0:54:130:54:15

To turn my zest and juice into a delicious curd,

0:54:180:54:21

I heat it gently over a pan of simmering water,

0:54:210:54:24

along with some sugar and butter.

0:54:240:54:26

Once that's melted, some whisked eggs go in slowly.

0:54:300:54:34

I'm just going to keep an eye on this.

0:54:370:54:40

It doesn't need constant stirring, but you don't want it to curdle.

0:54:400:54:45

While the curd thickens, I can get on with assembling my trifle.

0:54:490:54:54

The cooled mincemeat cake gets broken up for the base,

0:54:540:54:58

then I usually add a dash of alcohol.

0:54:580:54:59

-I know in our family, there was always...

-CORK POPS

0:54:590:55:03

..almost a challenge to see how much booze you could get into a trifle.

0:55:030:55:07

I just don't think it does any favours at all

0:55:070:55:10

to stick in gallons of sherry or brandy.

0:55:100:55:13

You just want a light flavour of alcohol.

0:55:130:55:17

I have to have custard. But this bit I'm happy to cheat -

0:55:190:55:23

with a good ready-made one.

0:55:230:55:25

I've taken this to the point where it's on the verge of thickening.

0:55:320:55:38

Take this over to somewhere fairly cool

0:55:390:55:42

and then as it starts to cool, it'll thicken,

0:55:420:55:46

and it just needs the occasional stir.

0:55:460:55:49

Make sure the curd is fridge-cold

0:55:490:55:52

before pouring over the cake and custard.

0:55:520:55:55

That gets a final chill, just while I whip up some fresh cream.

0:55:550:55:59

For me, the real glory of a trifle is when you dig your spoon in

0:56:080:56:11

and you get a little bit of all of the layers mixed together...

0:56:110:56:15

..and they all swirl into one.

0:56:170:56:19

Decorate your trifle however you fancy. For me,

0:56:190:56:22

it has to be colourful and fresh, so Clementine zest,

0:56:220:56:25

pistachios and something that will surprise and intrigue.

0:56:250:56:31

It's just...rather fun to have something on there...

0:56:310:56:36

maybe a little bit different, that not everybody knows...

0:56:360:56:40

some caped gooseberries.

0:56:400:56:43

The kitchen is full of the most magical smells of baking,

0:56:520:56:56

of mincemeat, of lemon curd and of Clementines.

0:56:560:57:01

No trifle, no celebration.

0:57:030:57:05

Trust me, this is the most magnificent trifle

0:57:130:57:16

you will ever make!

0:57:160:57:18

It never fails to add sparkle and glamour to my Christmas Day.

0:57:180:57:21

Even if you do cheat a bit,

0:57:210:57:23

the results will still look and taste spectacular.

0:57:230:57:25

Christmas just wouldn't be the same without something delicious to eat.

0:57:430:57:47

Cooking up a handsome Christmas feast,

0:57:470:57:50

adding a festive twist to a family favourite,

0:57:500:57:53

or just treating yourself to something naughty -

0:57:530:57:55

I, for one, love every dish.

0:57:550:57:56

And whether it's baking gingerbread men for the tree,

0:58:000:58:03

finding out what Santa's delivered,

0:58:030:58:06

or going that extra mile over dinner for family and friends,

0:58:060:58:11

I really do believe that it's the simple things

0:58:110:58:14

that make for a truly magical Christmas.

0:58:140:58:18

-CORK POPS

-Woo!

0:58:180:58:20

-Cheers!

-ALL: Cheers!

-Merry Christmas!

0:58:200:58:23

-Sumptuous!

-Thank you so much.

0:58:330:58:37

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0:58:520:58:55

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0:58:550:58:59

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