Soft and Crisp Nigel Slater's Simple Cooking


Soft and Crisp

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'I'm Nigel Slater.

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'I don't think cooking needs to be about expensive ingredients and hours of work.

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'Sometimes the simplest combinations are the best.

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'That's what this series is all about.

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'Think sweet and sour, soft and crisp, surf and turf.'

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It's just a way to turn very humble ingredients into something that's actually really exciting to eat.

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'I'll be cooking favourite dishes and experimenting with some new ones.'

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And it's the textures that make that so special for me.

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'Some ingredients are just made to be together.

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'Understand why and you'll transform your cooking.'

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It's salty, it's refreshing all at once. It's everything I want a mouthful of food to be.

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'Today I'm looking at soft and crisp.'

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It's about textures that work together.

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Get them right and you can turn a simple supper into a great one.

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'Contrasting textures in a mouthful can really bring a recipe to life.

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'Soft and crisp are both lovely on their own,

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'but put them together and the results are heavenly.

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-'And I'm not the only one who thinks so.'

-That's amazing.

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The real origin of my love of things crisp and soft together was pizza.

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That crisp, slightly burnt crust

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and then the soft, melting cheese on top.

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You can't beat a good pizza. But I don't always want to be making one.

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'So I want to start by experimenting with traditional pizza textures

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'to see what happens if I assemble them in a different way.

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'I'm going to try a really simple mixture of soft tomatoes

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'and mozzarella topped with a crisp parmesan crust.

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'Firstly I'm going to make the crust.

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'Use perfectly ripe tomatoes.

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'Discard the watery seeds and chop into small pieces.'

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When I think of flavours that work together,

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the first one that comes off the top of my head is tomato and basil.

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I can't think of two flavours

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that work together quite as well as these two.

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In a sauce, in a salad, in a soup, it's endless.

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'For the crust to have crunch, add breadcrumbs.

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It helps if the bread's a bit stale.

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'Don't blitz them too finely.'

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The crunchiness for this dish partly relies on different sizes of crumbs.

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So, some fine and some a little bit coarser.

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'The final ingredient for the crust

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'is a good handful of freshly-grated parmesan.'

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Tomatoes, basil, parmesan,

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they're three ingredients happy to hold hands.

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They love being in each other's company. Be generous.

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Little bit of black pepper.

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And then just a trickle of oil.

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This time it really does have to be olive.

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And then that sits under a hot grill until it starts to crisp.

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This is buffalo mozzarella,

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and it really is the only mozzarella worth using for this. It's creamy.

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And you can slice it if you like,

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it'll go a little bit further if you do.

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But I like to tear it apart.

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And you get smooth skin on the outside,

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and then this rough but soft inside.

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That's the bit I really love. I'm going to make a little dressing for that.

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'Nothing complicated, just basil whizzed up with some flat-leaf parsley and olive oil.'

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This isn't a fancy sauce.

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It's green herbs and olive oil.

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We've got quite a lot of other flavours going on in the crust.

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'I love the combination of the milky white cheese

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'and the vibrant green dressing.

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'Everyone's got a favourite pizza topping.

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'Today I fancy a few slices of salami,

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'but Parma ham would work as well.'

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There's no great surprises here,

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we know these flavours, we know they work.

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They've been used together for ever.

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So all this is very, very soft.

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I want my crisp crust to go with it.

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'Keep an eye on the crisp topping.

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'It's done when the breadcrumbs and parmesan are golden brown.'

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It smells amazing, so I'm really hoping

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my upside-down pizza will come together

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in a marriage of soft and crisp.

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It's everything I want food to be.

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It's familiar - I know and love these ingredients,

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and they marry perfectly together.

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But it's something new, it's something different,

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just a tiny little change to something I know and love.

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When you take ingredients like these,

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that are meant to be together, it's fun to experiment.

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And by drawing inspiration from a pizza,

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I've made a simple mozzarella and tomato salad

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into a sublime supper.

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Soft, melting cheese goes particularly well

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with something crisp.

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Think of a slice of cheese on toast just catching at the edges,

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or a piece of goat's cheese on a cracker.

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But there are other, similar combinations that work really well,

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and after coming up with something new,

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I think it's time to look at a classic.

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One soft and crisp recipe

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that never fails to please is a pie.

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It's that moment of crunchy crust and a soft filling.

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It doesn't matter to me whether it's sweet or savoury,

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as long as it's a pie.

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What IS essential is getting that light and flaky pastry

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with something soft inside.

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And butternut squash works beautifully in a pie.

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Scoop out the seeds and the fibres -

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they're of no use, but they're very good on the compost.

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'Cut the flesh into equal-sized chunks so it cooks evenly.'

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'Butternut squash takes ages to roast in the oven,

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'so I'm giving this a head start, by steaming it first.'

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I haven't got a proper steamer.

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So I make one

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with a kitchen colander balanced over a pot of hot water.

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You pop that on to steam...

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..for about 20 minutes or so.

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'Next, it's going to get a roasting.

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'Olive oil or groundnut would work. I'm using rapeseed.'

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And for a little bit of richness, I'm going to add some butter.

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There's masses of natural sugar in any of the squash family,

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and I want to caramelise that sweetness in the oven.

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A little bit of cinnamon - it works beautifully with the pumpkin family.

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'It isn't just a spice for sweet recipes,

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'it adds a depth to savoury dishes, like this one.'

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The important thing for any pie

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is to have a crisp pastry and to have soft filling.

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And so I'm going to mash my squash.

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Then that goes in the oven for about half an hour.

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'Next, the crust.

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'I'm going to use puff pastry for my pie -

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'light as a feather and crisp.

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'It's nice to make it from scratch, but I often use readymade.'

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Give it an extra roll.

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Although this is really thin and ready-rolled,

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I want it to be even thinner and crisper.

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I want these edges to stick together firmly.

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So I'm going to brush them with a little big of egg wash.

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Pop the other piece of pastry on top of that,

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and then just press the edges round very firmly to seal them.

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Two or three slits in the top will let the steam out.

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Although I do like a really crisp crust and a soft filling,

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I also like that bit just underneath the top bit of the crust,

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where the filling or the sauce meets the pastry.

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It's partly crisp and partly soft, and it's sublime.

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Then into a really hot oven.

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That'll take 20 minutes or so.

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'You can't rush a pie.

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'There's no shortcut when waiting for the filling to cook through,

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'and the pastry to turn gold.

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'Patience is all.'

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I've got a crisp crust there.

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It is that thing,

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of something...very soft and fluffy

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encased in something crisp and crunchy -

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textures that just work.

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Don't be scared of pastry.

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Take that little shortcut with good quality ready made

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and you'll still get a brilliant result.

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When you get that combination of luscious and crunchy right,

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a pie is a thing of beauty.

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And the simpler, the better.

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I've always found the combination of sunshine and sea air

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makes me hungry.

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I've come Brighton to meet a couple

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who run a sea front takeaway with a difference.

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When I met Jack, he was a part-time fisherman.

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And then I started going fishing with him,

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I really took to the sea, I liked the sea anyway,

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but it's lovely to work down here.

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Jack and Linda Mills have been together for 45 years.

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For the last 15, they've run

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a popular takeaway shop right on Brighton beach.

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We know all the fishermen,

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so the fishermen bring the fish into the harbour,

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which is always freshly caught, and it comes from the harbour to us.

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And then we fillet it, brine it and then smoke it.

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And, of course, the next day people love it, it's lovely and fresh.

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Jack's granddad was a fishsmoker so when Jack retired,

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opening a smoke house seemed like a good idea.

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Although things got off to a slow start.

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The first time we opened, we took about £7 and we thought,

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"We've done it wrong. We've done it all wrong."

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From then, it has blossomed, it's grown and grown and grown.

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We meet lots of nice people, it's really, really good.

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Linda's going to share the secrets of one of her bestsellers -

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an incredibly simple mackerel pate.

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It's a "no cook no fuss" recipe.

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She starts off with breadcrumbs.

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So do you get through a lot of this in the summer then?

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I use a batch every day.

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I'll cut some of our home-grown shallots.

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So they're from your garden? Well done.

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They are very successful this year.

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I'll do the mackerel.

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In theory, there shouldn't be any bones left.

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-But you give it a quick check for bones?

-Yes.

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Cos you can be really, really careful about getting the bones out

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and yet, somebody will always find one.

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That's the way, isn't it?

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Fish has bones.

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-Some people are better at finding bones than others.

-Possibly, yes.

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I'll just add the mackerel.

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Whizz that up.

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Then she adds some dry sherry.

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-I don't put a lot in.

-No.

-We're not trying to get people drunk.

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Would you like to put a bit of toast on for us?

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-Certainly, yes.

-We'll have it with nice, hot toast.

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Finally Linda pours in some single cream.

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Well, I quite like it that consistency, which is quite enough.

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So it's just about to fall off the spoon,

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that sort of, on the edge.

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-Black pepper.

-Black pepper.

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And that is ready.

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What's lovely is the way everything here is so simple.

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Well, I always believe in not complicating food.

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Simple food is so much better.

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Especially, when the raw ingredient is just so spot on and so perfect...

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-Why spoil it?

-Exactly.

-Are we done?

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-Yes.

-Have we got a plate? Got a nice plate?

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Let me give you a taste of that, you can see what you think.

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I like my toast when it's very brown round the edges like that.

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-Adds flavour.

-Certainly does.

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-It's simple.

-And it's easy for anybody to make.

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It's half a dozen ingredients and some gorgeous fish.

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It's that marriage of something very soft and something crisp.

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-Yes.

-And it just works.

-It just works.

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A day at the seaside has brought back memories of the things I used

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to eat on holiday when I was young.

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They always tasted extra special.

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I've come up with my take on a childhood favourite -

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poached pears with a cream and biscuit filling.

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When I was a kid, we used to go on holiday

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to the same place every year. And I looked forward to it

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because the place we stayed at had this dessert that was

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pears with ice cream and chocolate sauce.

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And it was one of my favourite things

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and this is just a grown-up version of that.

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Made with fresh pears.

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Not canned, which they were in those days.

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Poach the pears in sugar syrup.

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A little lemon juice will stop them going brown.

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I'm adding a vanilla pod,

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but a few drops of vanilla extract would work too.

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When the pears have been simmering in their syrup,

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for about 15-20 minutes, just test them with the point of a knife

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to make sure they're really, really soft and tender.

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They should be on the verge of collapse.

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Let the pears cool in the syrup

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and then put them in the fridge to chill while preparing the filling.

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I like to whip cream by hand,

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so I can stop the second it reaches the perfect texture.

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Take no notice of anybody who says whip it to firm peaks.

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That's too far.

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You want it to be soft and voluptuous.

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It should just hold its shape on the whisk.

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I don't want to whip it any more than that.

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And then keep that really cold.

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And I've got the lovely soft fruit, I've got the softly whipped cream,

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but I want something crunchy as a change of texture.

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For that I use some expensive biscuits.

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They can be anything, sometimes brandy snaps,

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sometimes ginger biscuits with chocolate on them.

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Sometimes just little Florentines.

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Which ever ones you use the only really important thing about them

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is that they're crisp and crunchy.

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You only need a few of these lovely biscuits.

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A little goes a long way.

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And I'm filling these very generously because, you know,

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it's a pudding, it's special.

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I'm just going to go for it.

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The final indulgence. A trickle of melted dark chocolate.

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I'm going to pop that in the fridge,

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just so that last bit of chocolate goes crisp on top of the cream.

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I can't think of a better way to round off an evening meal.

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But the perk of being the cook means I don't have to wait that long.

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I mean, of course the flavours work, they're classics.

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It's the textures that make that so special for me.

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It's the crisp biscuits, the soft cream, it's the juicy pears

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and then that last little bit of very crisp chocolate on top.

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It's truly, truly gorgeous.

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This sweet treat is a delight to make.

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And even more enjoyable to eat.

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A childhood memory made real.

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I'm back in Brighton with Linda and Jack who run a seafront smokehouse.

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I want to cook them a quick snack

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that's a wonderful combination of soft and crisp.

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Light sweetcorn fritters topped with cream cheese.

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-Lovely.

-Oh, we love sweetcorn.

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-Self contained foods.

-I know!

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-They're just ripe, too, they're lovely.

-I can never grow them.

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We grow them, but they're not highly successful.

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They're tricky, aren't they? And they take up a bit of space.

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I thought it would be quite fun to make some little cakes with them.

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And I know you can buy them in a bag,

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-but there's something about fresh sweetcorn.

-It's much nicer.

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Oops, didn't mean to shower you with them.

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This is an incredibly simple recipe,

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you almost can't call it a recipe, but it's delicious nevertheless.

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I'll put an egg in there.

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I'm making a simple batter by adding an egg

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and some self-raising flour straight into the corn.

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I suppose about a tablespoon, heaped.

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To make the batter even lighter, add an extra egg white.

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It's funny that thing that I've always known that eating outside,

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for me, it's the best seasoning of the lot, is fresh air.

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But actually cooking outside is something

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that I discovered not so long ago

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and now it's like any excuse.

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I'll get the little camp stove going.

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Whisk up the egg white in a second bowl

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and then fold it into the sweetcorn batter.

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All lovely and light.

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What I'm hoping to do is just almost suspend the crunchy sweetcorn

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kernels in a very soft, little pancake.

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So that you get a little bit of soft pancake

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and then the crisp kernels.

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-That's what I'm hoping to do. We'll see.

-It looks crispy.

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I'm going to keep the heat in...

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with a bit of boy scout stuff.

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-That's a brilliant idea.

-It'll work.

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-It's lovely to eat outside cos you can have fun.

-It's part of it.

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There's something very British about this.

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The other thing that works for me

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with sweetcorn every time is black pepper.

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A lovely thing to use the stone, it's what you call logical thinking.

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You know, you think you've packed everything!

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Peppery cream cheese is the perfect topping.

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Very nice too. Made me hungry.

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We're just about done.

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Cooking outdoors is always a bit of an adventure.

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No matter how organised you think you are.

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-All these little chaps here.

-They look lovely. Amazing.

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-Would you like some cream cheese?

-Yes, please.

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I'll put some on the top there.

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-I'll just pass that over to you.

-Thank you.

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I can't wait to taste this.

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Very nice. Amazing.

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It's crunchy.

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The sweetcorn actually cooks for such a short time in the pan,

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so it still stays really crisp and crunchy.

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That's amazing, that's really nice.

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Simple recipes are definitely the best way to experiment with textures.

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Check out the website for lots more information on all of these ideas.

0:23:110:23:15

Soft fish works with a brittle coating.

0:23:170:23:21

I want to use those classic textures in a crabcake.

0:23:210:23:25

And alongside, a chip shop favourite, mushy peas.

0:23:250:23:30

Just a few ingredients, easy to make and so delicious.

0:23:300:23:35

To start, I'll need equal amounts of brown and white crab meat.

0:23:350:23:39

You can buy it from a fishmonger or supermarket.

0:23:390:23:41

I like to give them a bit of zip, and for that I use citrus notes,

0:23:420:23:46

like lemongrass and lime.

0:23:460:23:49

The lemongrass needs chopping as finely as possible,

0:23:510:23:54

and I'm going to use the juice and the zest of the lime.

0:23:540:23:58

Crab is a really rich ingredient.

0:23:580:24:02

You need flavours in there that will lighten it up, give it some life.

0:24:020:24:07

So anything hot or citrus-y works beautifully.

0:24:070:24:10

And then the juice.

0:24:110:24:13

Lime and ginger, and lemongrass.

0:24:180:24:22

There just has to be chilli in there as well.

0:24:220:24:24

Put as much or as little as you like.

0:24:240:24:26

For this recipe, I want the flavour of chilli, but not the heat.

0:24:260:24:32

So discard the seeds and chop finely.

0:24:320:24:35

To complement the flavours of lemongrass and lime,

0:24:350:24:39

ginger and chilli, add finely sliced spring onions

0:24:390:24:43

and a handful of shredded coriander.

0:24:430:24:46

A beaten egg and breadcrumbs will bind the mixture.

0:24:460:24:50

But also they'll give lovely crunchy bits as they fry in the pan.

0:24:520:24:57

Just softly push them together.

0:25:030:25:07

Now, those little chaps need to go in the fridge

0:25:110:25:14

for a good half an hour,

0:25:140:25:16

so all the ingredients get to know one another

0:25:160:25:18

and they firm up a little bit.

0:25:180:25:20

I want something quite substantial with my little crabcakes,

0:25:270:25:31

so a nice pile of pea puree.

0:25:310:25:34

Use fresh or frozen.

0:25:340:25:38

I'm going to put a bit of mint in with those.

0:25:380:25:41

Add a little olive oil or melted butter, and it's done.

0:25:470:25:50

It couldn't be simpler.

0:25:500:25:51

So once you see the oil start to shimmer,

0:26:010:26:03

you know it's hot enough to put the cakes in.

0:26:030:26:06

There's always a huge temptation to fiddle with things

0:26:110:26:14

that are frying, to poke them and move them around,

0:26:140:26:17

but if you do that too much then you won't get a crust

0:26:170:26:20

forming on the bottom, because it won't get a chance,

0:26:200:26:23

so I just leave them be.

0:26:230:26:25

It's best if you can turn them in one swift, very sure move.

0:26:300:26:34

They might break up, it's not the end of the world.

0:26:340:26:38

There's lots of flavourings from afar in those,

0:26:460:26:50

lemongrass and chillies, and I want something that...

0:26:500:26:54

will bring them back down to earth, and mushy peas is the way to go.

0:26:540:26:58

It's so fine, that crisp crust.

0:27:180:27:22

It's absolutely featherlight,

0:27:220:27:24

and then inside, this wonderful soft crab with citrus notes.

0:27:240:27:29

It's a long way from fish and chips, but it really is quite heavenly.

0:27:290:27:33

This recipe is very adaptable.

0:27:340:27:36

Try different types of fish.

0:27:360:27:38

If you don't like the coriander, try a handful of chopped parsley.

0:27:380:27:43

The main thing to remember is don't move the fishcakes around the pan.

0:27:430:27:48

You want to make sure you end up with soft fish

0:27:480:27:50

with that gorgeous chip shop crunch.

0:27:500:27:53

Soft and crisp,

0:28:040:28:06

textures that are great on their own but just so wonderful together.

0:28:060:28:11

So when you cook, if you think about mixing textures as well as flavours,

0:28:110:28:15

you'll transform the dishes that you make.

0:28:150:28:17

Next time, I'll be looking at sugar and spice.

0:28:190:28:21

They're taste sensations that are perfectly matched,

0:28:210:28:26

and not just in delectable desserts.

0:28:260:28:28

They also help make some savoury dishes into delicious treats.

0:28:280:28:32

Sugar and spice, and absolutely gorgeous.

0:28:320:28:36

It's like heaven on a spoon.

0:28:360:28:39

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