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I'm not sure that we're really that good | 0:00:26 | 0:00:29 | |
at making a little bit go a long way. | 0:00:29 | 0:00:31 | |
If I want to do that, I tend to look further afield, | 0:00:31 | 0:00:34 | |
such as the recipes of Italy or France, or of Spain. | 0:00:34 | 0:00:38 | |
They have a history of producing food from very simple, | 0:00:38 | 0:00:43 | |
very basic ingredients with masses of flavour. | 0:00:43 | 0:00:46 | |
Something like a sausage or a salami, | 0:00:46 | 0:00:48 | |
something that's got bags of flavour in it. | 0:00:48 | 0:00:51 | |
It will make all your cheap ingredients flavoursome. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:55 | |
25 years ago, when I first came to England, | 0:00:57 | 0:01:00 | |
charcuterie was practically unknown apart from the odd salami | 0:01:00 | 0:01:04 | |
that you saw in Italian delis, | 0:01:04 | 0:01:06 | |
but now people have travelled a lot and been to Spain, Italy, France, | 0:01:06 | 0:01:11 | |
and they understand charcuterie a lot more. | 0:01:11 | 0:01:13 | |
Even the word they understand now. | 0:01:13 | 0:01:15 | |
This is rillettes, pigeon and pork. | 0:01:15 | 0:01:19 | |
Vincent Castellano has been a charcutier for 36 years. | 0:01:19 | 0:01:23 | |
He's passionate about all things pig. | 0:01:23 | 0:01:26 | |
Charcuterie is a very old word made of two words, really - | 0:01:26 | 0:01:32 | |
"char", it means flesh, and "cuterie", it means cooking, | 0:01:32 | 0:01:36 | |
and it doesn't always involve the heat process, | 0:01:36 | 0:01:39 | |
it's also curing and drying and maturing. | 0:01:39 | 0:01:41 | |
It's sausages, it's pates, it's brawn, it's pancetta, it's chorizo. | 0:01:41 | 0:01:46 | |
Basically the flavour of the pig is fantastic. | 0:01:46 | 0:01:49 | |
It's got fat, it's got lean meat, it goes well together, | 0:01:49 | 0:01:54 | |
and pork, basically, you use every single part of the pig. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:58 | |
To use a cliche, the only thing you don't use in a pig is the oink. | 0:01:58 | 0:02:02 | |
If I say it properly. | 0:02:02 | 0:02:04 | |
Charcuterie is a great basis to make your food go further. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:13 | |
Cooking chorizo here, | 0:02:13 | 0:02:15 | |
which is used to flavour dishes like bean casseroles and stews with lamb. | 0:02:15 | 0:02:21 | |
It's endless, and you don't need very much. | 0:02:21 | 0:02:24 | |
You just need it to season to give the background flavour, the spice, | 0:02:24 | 0:02:27 | |
because as you cook it, the oils are released and that, | 0:02:27 | 0:02:31 | |
with all the turmeric and paprika and the chilli, | 0:02:31 | 0:02:34 | |
the flavour is really concentrated. | 0:02:34 | 0:02:36 | |
And here this one is flavoured with black peppers, | 0:02:38 | 0:02:41 | |
and it's so intense, it just goes on and on. | 0:02:41 | 0:02:43 | |
It's just fantastic. | 0:02:43 | 0:02:46 | |
I'm the biggest fan, I think. This is why I'm making this. | 0:02:46 | 0:02:49 | |
I make it for myself, not for the customers. | 0:02:49 | 0:02:52 | |
Charcuterie has a wonderful ability | 0:02:55 | 0:02:57 | |
to bring the best out of so many other ingredients. | 0:02:57 | 0:03:01 | |
Tonight, I'm going to chuck a spicy sausage in with some veg | 0:03:01 | 0:03:04 | |
to make one of my favourites - a rustic stew. | 0:03:04 | 0:03:08 | |
I love this sort of cooking, it's very... it's very satisfying for the cook. | 0:03:12 | 0:03:16 | |
To bring something to the table that you know hasn't cost much money, | 0:03:16 | 0:03:20 | |
and yet is going to make lots of people very happy, | 0:03:20 | 0:03:23 | |
it gives enormous pleasure, it really does. | 0:03:23 | 0:03:26 | |
There's no real recipe here, just work out how many you're feeding | 0:03:30 | 0:03:33 | |
and think, well, half a carrot per person will be enough | 0:03:33 | 0:03:39 | |
and half an onion. | 0:03:39 | 0:03:41 | |
And to that, I'm going to put in some celery. | 0:03:41 | 0:03:44 | |
The base of my dish is building up, | 0:03:44 | 0:03:46 | |
but I'd quite like something else in there. | 0:03:46 | 0:03:49 | |
Maybe a little bit of oregano. | 0:03:49 | 0:03:52 | |
I've made this so many times, | 0:03:58 | 0:04:00 | |
just opening a can of tomatoes, and it's been great. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:03 | |
I'd happily do that again, | 0:04:03 | 0:04:05 | |
but I've got tomatoes around that need using up. | 0:04:05 | 0:04:08 | |
They are a bit too squashy for a salad, | 0:04:08 | 0:04:10 | |
and I think they'll do well in here. | 0:04:10 | 0:04:14 | |
The strength of the sausage means the flavour goes a long way, | 0:04:14 | 0:04:18 | |
so you don't have to add much more. | 0:04:18 | 0:04:21 | |
Just a few fennel seeds, chilli flakes for warmth | 0:04:21 | 0:04:24 | |
and some orange peel that packs a real punch. | 0:04:24 | 0:04:27 | |
It's funny that you could put so much orange juice in there, | 0:04:27 | 0:04:30 | |
freshly squeezed, | 0:04:30 | 0:04:32 | |
and you'd get nothing like the flavour that you get | 0:04:32 | 0:04:35 | |
from even the tiniest strip of the orange zest. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:38 | |
That's where all the essential oils are. | 0:04:38 | 0:04:40 | |
The heart and soul of the orange is actually in the outside. | 0:04:40 | 0:04:43 | |
So I've got a flavoursome base. I've got the bulk of it, these beans, | 0:04:44 | 0:04:49 | |
and now I want to add the real flavour. | 0:04:49 | 0:04:51 | |
This is probably the most expensive bit of the whole dish. | 0:04:51 | 0:04:56 | |
I'm going to hack it into fairly small pieces. | 0:04:56 | 0:05:00 | |
I could put it in whole, and then slice it at the table. | 0:05:00 | 0:05:04 | |
But I want lots of flavour in this dish, | 0:05:06 | 0:05:08 | |
and I think I will get more flavour by slicing it into small pieces. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:13 | |
You can see the freckles of fat throughout it | 0:05:17 | 0:05:20 | |
and that's where lots of the flavour and the richness will come. | 0:05:20 | 0:05:24 | |
Cover and simmer for as long as you can. | 0:05:26 | 0:05:29 | |
The longer it cooks, the better the flavour. | 0:05:29 | 0:05:33 | |
Just before serving, season and add some fresh herbs. | 0:05:33 | 0:05:37 | |
I'm sticking with oregano. | 0:05:37 | 0:05:39 | |
It's a meaty old dish, and you want something fresh in there, | 0:05:39 | 0:05:44 | |
something brightly flavoured. | 0:05:44 | 0:05:46 | |
What I really like is the idea of bringing that to the table. | 0:05:46 | 0:05:50 | |
There's something very generous about sticking a ladle | 0:05:50 | 0:05:54 | |
into a big cauldron of food, and spooning it out for everybody. | 0:05:54 | 0:05:59 | |
It just feels good. | 0:05:59 | 0:06:01 | |
Make sure everyone gets a few chunks of the delicious sausage | 0:06:01 | 0:06:05 | |
and finish off with some orange zest. | 0:06:08 | 0:06:11 | |
Extraordinarily meaty, | 0:06:14 | 0:06:16 | |
considering it's only got one skinny sausage in there. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:20 | |
Six people will happily feast on that. | 0:06:20 | 0:06:22 | |
And it's cost probably under two quid a head. | 0:06:22 | 0:06:26 | |
It really is cheap, cheap food. | 0:06:26 | 0:06:29 | |
You don't need a lot of sausage | 0:06:29 | 0:06:31 | |
to give this stew real flavour and depth. | 0:06:31 | 0:06:34 | |
A little definitely goes a long way. | 0:06:34 | 0:06:37 | |
One of the problems with a small garden | 0:06:45 | 0:06:47 | |
is I have to cram in as much as I possibly can. | 0:06:47 | 0:06:50 | |
I get little bits of things that I have to make the most of. | 0:06:50 | 0:06:54 | |
It's funny, you move a few leaves, | 0:06:54 | 0:06:57 | |
it's like finding a treasure chest, just hiding there. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:01 | |
And I've got a few currants, too. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:04 | |
They hang down like... It's like costume jewellery. | 0:07:07 | 0:07:12 | |
I'd grow these even if I wasn't going to eat them, | 0:07:12 | 0:07:14 | |
because they look so beautiful. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:16 | |
I've got some whitecurrants too, these are very beautiful. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:19 | |
I think these are the most elegant currants of all. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:23 | |
They really are like jewels. | 0:07:23 | 0:07:24 | |
The flavour is virtually the same as a redcurrant, | 0:07:24 | 0:07:27 | |
but they catch the light and so they look really beautiful in a tart, | 0:07:27 | 0:07:34 | |
especially when you eat it by candlelight. | 0:07:34 | 0:07:36 | |
And I got my first red raspberries this year. | 0:07:38 | 0:07:42 | |
Literally a couple. What do I do with those? | 0:07:42 | 0:07:44 | |
One of the first trees I ever planted was a mulberry | 0:07:50 | 0:07:53 | |
and it's never fruited. | 0:07:53 | 0:07:55 | |
They take about eight years to actually show their fruit. | 0:07:55 | 0:07:58 | |
Oh, there is one. Oh, there's lots. | 0:07:58 | 0:08:01 | |
I've waited ten years for this. | 0:08:02 | 0:08:04 | |
It's their first year. | 0:08:04 | 0:08:07 | |
They're all hiding. | 0:08:08 | 0:08:10 | |
Oh, this is really special. | 0:08:10 | 0:08:12 | |
My first mulberries. | 0:08:12 | 0:08:15 | |
They really are. Isn't that amazing? | 0:08:15 | 0:08:17 | |
I want to find a way to turn these into a simple summer pudding. | 0:08:21 | 0:08:25 | |
And I think they'll be perfect | 0:08:25 | 0:08:27 | |
with some last bits of fruit in the fridge, | 0:08:27 | 0:08:29 | |
a bit of leftover cake and the last trickles of a lemon liqueur. | 0:08:29 | 0:08:33 | |
This really is about making a little go a long way. | 0:08:33 | 0:08:37 | |
Soften any berries just with a little sugar | 0:08:38 | 0:08:41 | |
and a splash of water until they burst. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:44 | |
Then it's just a case of dribbling the sponge with liqueur, | 0:08:44 | 0:08:48 | |
waiting for the fruit to cool, then folding in the whipped cream. | 0:08:48 | 0:08:52 | |
All that from a few berries. | 0:08:55 | 0:08:57 | |
In terms of making a few good things from the garden go a long way... | 0:09:00 | 0:09:03 | |
..this doesn't look bad. | 0:09:05 | 0:09:06 | |
This tastes like a little bit of my garden. | 0:09:19 | 0:09:21 | |
On a very warm summer's day. | 0:09:23 | 0:09:25 | |
It smells like it too. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:33 | |
This is a great impromptu dessert. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:36 | |
The leftover cake, soaked in liqueur and a splodge of cream or yoghurt | 0:09:36 | 0:09:41 | |
means that you only need a few berries | 0:09:41 | 0:09:43 | |
to make this summery dish sing. | 0:09:43 | 0:09:45 | |
There are several reasons for making something go further. | 0:09:51 | 0:09:54 | |
Sometimes it's because the main ingredient is very expensive. | 0:09:54 | 0:09:58 | |
Other times it's because you simply don't have much of it. | 0:09:58 | 0:10:01 | |
I've got a couple of cooked salmon fillets. | 0:10:01 | 0:10:03 | |
That's not exactly enough to feed the family. | 0:10:03 | 0:10:06 | |
I could make so many things with them, | 0:10:06 | 0:10:08 | |
but I want them to be a filling in a lovely crumbly tart. | 0:10:08 | 0:10:12 | |
I'm going to make these go further | 0:10:12 | 0:10:14 | |
by putting them into the heart of a tart. | 0:10:14 | 0:10:17 | |
The choice of pastry is up to you. | 0:10:17 | 0:10:20 | |
If it was puff pastry, then I'd probably use frozen. | 0:10:20 | 0:10:23 | |
If it's short crust or sweet pastry, I like to make my own. | 0:10:23 | 0:10:27 | |
It's not difficult and sometimes, I make it by hand. | 0:10:28 | 0:10:31 | |
I love that feel of the flour and the butter in my fingers. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:34 | |
But to be honest there are some times | 0:10:34 | 0:10:37 | |
when I just make it in the machine. | 0:10:37 | 0:10:39 | |
Making pastry can be quite fiddly | 0:10:46 | 0:10:49 | |
and it's not the sort of thing I want to do when I come home. | 0:10:49 | 0:10:52 | |
But there are times when I just want to make pastry, | 0:10:52 | 0:10:55 | |
maybe when somebody's coming. But it's not such an arduous task, | 0:10:55 | 0:10:58 | |
it doesn't take that long, even when you make it from scratch. | 0:10:58 | 0:11:02 | |
If you push the pastry right down into the corners, | 0:11:06 | 0:11:10 | |
then it won't tear when you put the filling in. | 0:11:10 | 0:11:14 | |
This is the sort of job that really should be almost a bit of a pain, | 0:11:14 | 0:11:19 | |
but it's not. | 0:11:19 | 0:11:21 | |
It's the pleasure of making pastry and feeling dough in your hands. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:25 | |
It's really... There's something very relaxing about it, | 0:11:26 | 0:11:30 | |
Something...kind of makes me feel quite calm. | 0:11:30 | 0:11:34 | |
To keep your pastry crisp and crumbly, | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
your case needs to bake a little before the filling goes in. | 0:11:37 | 0:11:40 | |
The best way to do that is to cover the base with foil, | 0:11:40 | 0:11:43 | |
weighed down with ceramic beans. | 0:11:43 | 0:11:46 | |
When I think of salmon, I think of summery ingredients. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:51 | |
Soft green spring onions, little bit of water cress, | 0:11:51 | 0:11:54 | |
flavours that work perfectly with salmon. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
We've got very mild, gentle flavours going on here, | 0:11:57 | 0:12:00 | |
and I don't want any sort of browning | 0:12:00 | 0:12:04 | |
or caramelising of the onions. Just enough to soften them. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:07 | |
And that way, when we come to cut it with a knife | 0:12:07 | 0:12:10 | |
it'll just cut straight through instead of tearing the tart. | 0:12:10 | 0:12:14 | |
The filling is so simple - just four eggs and two big cartons of cream. | 0:12:18 | 0:12:23 | |
To be honest, I could have got away with one big piece of salmon | 0:12:28 | 0:12:31 | |
but I want it to be quite full and generous. | 0:12:31 | 0:12:34 | |
And I keep the pieces large so that they stay moist when they cook. | 0:12:34 | 0:12:38 | |
I don't want them to be in little bits. | 0:12:38 | 0:12:41 | |
There are lots of people who could take that to the oven | 0:12:43 | 0:12:46 | |
without spilling it, but I don't quite trust myself. | 0:12:46 | 0:12:49 | |
So I'll almost fill it with the custard. | 0:12:49 | 0:12:51 | |
I'll pour in the rest of the jug-full in the oven. | 0:12:51 | 0:12:56 | |
I used to think this sort of thing was complicated | 0:13:00 | 0:13:03 | |
till I actually had a go. | 0:13:03 | 0:13:05 | |
If you're in a hurry, ready-made pastry will do fine, | 0:13:05 | 0:13:09 | |
but it's worth making your own if you have time. | 0:13:09 | 0:13:11 | |
That pastry's really, really crumbly. | 0:13:20 | 0:13:23 | |
A nice, fine end for a piece of salmon. | 0:13:23 | 0:13:26 | |
Making a tart is a great way to turn a small portion | 0:13:28 | 0:13:31 | |
into a luxurious supper. | 0:13:31 | 0:13:34 | |
Two fillets of salmon really can feed six people. | 0:13:35 | 0:13:38 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media | 0:13:44 | 0:13:46 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:13:46 | 0:13:50 |