Making Things Go Further Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers


Making Things Go Further

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I'm not sure that we're really that good

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at making a little bit go a long way.

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If I want to do that, I tend to look further afield,

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such as the recipes of Italy or France, or of Spain.

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They have a history of producing food from very simple,

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very basic ingredients with masses of flavour.

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Something like a sausage or a salami,

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something that's got bags of flavour in it.

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It will make all your cheap ingredients flavoursome.

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25 years ago, when I first came to England,

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charcuterie was practically unknown apart from the odd salami

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that you saw in Italian delis,

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but now people have travelled a lot and been to Spain, Italy, France,

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and they understand charcuterie a lot more.

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Even the word they understand now.

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This is rillettes, pigeon and pork.

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Vincent Castellano has been a charcutier for 36 years.

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He's passionate about all things pig.

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Charcuterie is a very old word made of two words, really -

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"char", it means flesh, and "cuterie", it means cooking,

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and it doesn't always involve the heat process,

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it's also curing and drying and maturing.

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It's sausages, it's pates, it's brawn, it's pancetta, it's chorizo.

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Basically the flavour of the pig is fantastic.

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It's got fat, it's got lean meat, it goes well together,

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and pork, basically, you use every single part of the pig.

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To use a cliche, the only thing you don't use in a pig is the oink.

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If I say it properly.

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Charcuterie is a great basis to make your food go further.

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Cooking chorizo here,

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which is used to flavour dishes like bean casseroles and stews with lamb.

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It's endless, and you don't need very much.

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You just need it to season to give the background flavour, the spice,

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because as you cook it, the oils are released and that,

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with all the turmeric and paprika and the chilli,

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the flavour is really concentrated.

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And here this one is flavoured with black peppers,

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and it's so intense, it just goes on and on.

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It's just fantastic.

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I'm the biggest fan, I think. This is why I'm making this.

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I make it for myself, not for the customers.

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Charcuterie has a wonderful ability

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to bring the best out of so many other ingredients.

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Tonight, I'm going to chuck a spicy sausage in with some veg

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to make one of my favourites - a rustic stew.

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I love this sort of cooking, it's very... it's very satisfying for the cook.

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To bring something to the table that you know hasn't cost much money,

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and yet is going to make lots of people very happy,

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it gives enormous pleasure, it really does.

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There's no real recipe here, just work out how many you're feeding

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and think, well, half a carrot per person will be enough

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and half an onion.

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And to that, I'm going to put in some celery.

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The base of my dish is building up,

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but I'd quite like something else in there.

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Maybe a little bit of oregano.

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I've made this so many times,

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just opening a can of tomatoes, and it's been great.

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I'd happily do that again,

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but I've got tomatoes around that need using up.

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They are a bit too squashy for a salad,

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and I think they'll do well in here.

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The strength of the sausage means the flavour goes a long way,

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so you don't have to add much more.

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Just a few fennel seeds, chilli flakes for warmth

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and some orange peel that packs a real punch.

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It's funny that you could put so much orange juice in there,

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freshly squeezed,

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and you'd get nothing like the flavour that you get

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from even the tiniest strip of the orange zest.

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That's where all the essential oils are.

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The heart and soul of the orange is actually in the outside.

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So I've got a flavoursome base. I've got the bulk of it, these beans,

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and now I want to add the real flavour.

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This is probably the most expensive bit of the whole dish.

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I'm going to hack it into fairly small pieces.

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I could put it in whole, and then slice it at the table.

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But I want lots of flavour in this dish,

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and I think I will get more flavour by slicing it into small pieces.

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You can see the freckles of fat throughout it

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and that's where lots of the flavour and the richness will come.

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Cover and simmer for as long as you can.

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The longer it cooks, the better the flavour.

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Just before serving, season and add some fresh herbs.

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I'm sticking with oregano.

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It's a meaty old dish, and you want something fresh in there,

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something brightly flavoured.

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What I really like is the idea of bringing that to the table.

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There's something very generous about sticking a ladle

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into a big cauldron of food, and spooning it out for everybody.

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It just feels good.

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Make sure everyone gets a few chunks of the delicious sausage

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and finish off with some orange zest.

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Extraordinarily meaty,

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considering it's only got one skinny sausage in there.

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Six people will happily feast on that.

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And it's cost probably under two quid a head.

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It really is cheap, cheap food.

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You don't need a lot of sausage

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to give this stew real flavour and depth.

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A little definitely goes a long way.

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One of the problems with a small garden

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is I have to cram in as much as I possibly can.

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I get little bits of things that I have to make the most of.

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It's funny, you move a few leaves,

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it's like finding a treasure chest, just hiding there.

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And I've got a few currants, too.

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They hang down like... It's like costume jewellery.

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I'd grow these even if I wasn't going to eat them,

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because they look so beautiful.

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I've got some whitecurrants too, these are very beautiful.

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I think these are the most elegant currants of all.

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They really are like jewels.

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The flavour is virtually the same as a redcurrant,

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but they catch the light and so they look really beautiful in a tart,

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especially when you eat it by candlelight.

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And I got my first red raspberries this year.

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Literally a couple. What do I do with those?

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One of the first trees I ever planted was a mulberry

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and it's never fruited.

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They take about eight years to actually show their fruit.

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Oh, there is one. Oh, there's lots.

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I've waited ten years for this.

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It's their first year.

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They're all hiding.

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Oh, this is really special.

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My first mulberries.

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They really are. Isn't that amazing?

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I want to find a way to turn these into a simple summer pudding.

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And I think they'll be perfect

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with some last bits of fruit in the fridge,

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a bit of leftover cake and the last trickles of a lemon liqueur.

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This really is about making a little go a long way.

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Soften any berries just with a little sugar

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and a splash of water until they burst.

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Then it's just a case of dribbling the sponge with liqueur,

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waiting for the fruit to cool, then folding in the whipped cream.

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All that from a few berries.

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In terms of making a few good things from the garden go a long way...

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..this doesn't look bad.

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This tastes like a little bit of my garden.

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On a very warm summer's day.

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It smells like it too.

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This is a great impromptu dessert.

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The leftover cake, soaked in liqueur and a splodge of cream or yoghurt

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means that you only need a few berries

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to make this summery dish sing.

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There are several reasons for making something go further.

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Sometimes it's because the main ingredient is very expensive.

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Other times it's because you simply don't have much of it.

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I've got a couple of cooked salmon fillets.

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That's not exactly enough to feed the family.

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I could make so many things with them,

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but I want them to be a filling in a lovely crumbly tart.

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I'm going to make these go further

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by putting them into the heart of a tart.

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The choice of pastry is up to you.

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If it was puff pastry, then I'd probably use frozen.

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If it's short crust or sweet pastry, I like to make my own.

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It's not difficult and sometimes, I make it by hand.

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I love that feel of the flour and the butter in my fingers.

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But to be honest there are some times

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when I just make it in the machine.

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Making pastry can be quite fiddly

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and it's not the sort of thing I want to do when I come home.

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But there are times when I just want to make pastry,

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maybe when somebody's coming. But it's not such an arduous task,

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it doesn't take that long, even when you make it from scratch.

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If you push the pastry right down into the corners,

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then it won't tear when you put the filling in.

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This is the sort of job that really should be almost a bit of a pain,

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but it's not.

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It's the pleasure of making pastry and feeling dough in your hands.

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It's really... There's something very relaxing about it,

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Something...kind of makes me feel quite calm.

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To keep your pastry crisp and crumbly,

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your case needs to bake a little before the filling goes in.

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The best way to do that is to cover the base with foil,

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weighed down with ceramic beans.

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When I think of salmon, I think of summery ingredients.

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Soft green spring onions, little bit of water cress,

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flavours that work perfectly with salmon.

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We've got very mild, gentle flavours going on here,

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and I don't want any sort of browning

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or caramelising of the onions. Just enough to soften them.

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And that way, when we come to cut it with a knife

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it'll just cut straight through instead of tearing the tart.

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The filling is so simple - just four eggs and two big cartons of cream.

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To be honest, I could have got away with one big piece of salmon

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but I want it to be quite full and generous.

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And I keep the pieces large so that they stay moist when they cook.

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I don't want them to be in little bits.

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There are lots of people who could take that to the oven

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without spilling it, but I don't quite trust myself.

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So I'll almost fill it with the custard.

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I'll pour in the rest of the jug-full in the oven.

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I used to think this sort of thing was complicated

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till I actually had a go.

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If you're in a hurry, ready-made pastry will do fine,

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but it's worth making your own if you have time.

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That pastry's really, really crumbly.

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A nice, fine end for a piece of salmon.

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Making a tart is a great way to turn a small portion

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into a luxurious supper.

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Two fillets of salmon really can feed six people.

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Subtitles by Red Bee Media

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