Saints and Sinners Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers


Saints and Sinners

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I'm Nigel Slater.

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For me, being able to rustle up delicious, simple food

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is what life is all about.

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Often I fancy a bit of indulgence, but I do also try to be good.

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Well, sometimes anyway!

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I like to make everything I eat feel like a treat -

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even the healthy stuff.

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If I'm going to spend time cooking it,

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I want to feel excited about eating it, not guilty!

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I do like eating healthily, and I do care about what I eat,

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but I also like the naughty stuff.

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What annoys me is when the naughty stuff gets a very bad name.

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It's all about balance.

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So this week I'll be creating a five heavenly dishes -

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balancing the very, very good with the very, very naughty.

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Fabulous meals to make you feel great about yourself,

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as well as a couple of my all-time, off-the-scale treats.

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I'll also be meeting a family passionate about growing their own,

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and transforming their healthy pickings into something more daring.

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I've got a thing about blackcurrants, I used to pick them as a kid.

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How much do we need to pay you to pick them?

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Maybe you could step back in time!

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Every time I have something that I know is good for me,

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it gives me a licence to have something naughty, something sinful.

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I think we all need a little bit more sin.

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If I'm going to eat a cake, or a biscuit,

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it's going to be a fabulous one,

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and if it's a biscuit I'll probably call it a cookie,

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cos it sounds much more delicious.

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So I'm going to start the week with a real treat -

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some divine chocolate cookies with crunchy hazelnuts.

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These are the perfect way to beat those Monday blues!

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I'd much rather have one,

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delicious crumbly chocolatey cookie

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made with butter, made with chocolate,

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than I'd have three

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that are supposedly better for me because they're low fat.

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My cookies start off by gently melting 200 grams of chocolate

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over a pan of simmering water.

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75 grams of butter will add to its silkiness.

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We're talking about treats, we're talking about pleasure,

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and if it's going to bring real pleasure,

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it's got to hit those buttons.

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225 grams of sumptuous muscovado sugar

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adds a wonderful deep butterscotch flavour.

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And that only looks like a bit of butter

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and a lot of sugar, but it'll work.

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A couple of eggs will bring my butter and sugar together.

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And a few drops of vanilla extract will complement the chocolate perfectly.

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Finally, two tablespoons of self-raising flour -

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don't even think about the calories.

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Now if this is a treat with chocolate,

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then there is a huge temptation for me to involve nuts.

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Hazelnuts and chocolate for me, is just... It's the best of the lot.

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I skin my hazelnuts - you can buy them already done, but I think they keep better with their skins on.

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It's easy - just toast and flake off the skins by rolling in a tea towel.

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So about three-quarters of these nuts I'm going to grind to a powder.

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The last quarter, I just roughly chop to add a bit of crunch.

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Then the whole lot goes in with the flour and creamed butter and sugar.

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Then, it's time to add the melted chocolate.

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As soon as it's all liquid,

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then I turn off the heat.

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If it gets too hot, then we'll be in trouble.

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There's nothing worse than grainy, burnt chocolate!

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I want my cookies to be moist and gooey in the centre,

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so they'll just get around 10 minutes in a warm oven.

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There's something that sends tingles down my spine when I put

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a plate of warm biscuits,

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cookies, call them what you will, on the table and everybody tucks in.

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There is just something.

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Perhaps it's the reason I cook, I don't know.

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It's about sharing something that you've made

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with other people while it's still warm from the oven.

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You wouldn't think those biscuits were cooked when you take them out of the oven,

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but they're as cooked as I want them to be.

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There's no packet of biscuits in the world...

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..that would have the same effect on me as these are right now.

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To go with the warm chocolate,

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some ripe cherries,

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a few...very ripe berries.

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So they're lightly crisp

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on the outside.

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And then inside,

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they're moist and gooey.

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You could keep these in a tin for a couple of days.

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But I'm not going to!

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The trick is to go for the best chocolate you can with this recipe.

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It is a treat, after all.

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If I do over-indulge, I often then crave something healthy.

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It's like my body telling me off, but a few aromatic herbs

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in a cup of hot water soon redresses the balance.

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That feeling when I've had a little bit too much cake,

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a little bit too many good things.

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There's something very purifying

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about a glass of warm water...

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and some green aromatic herbs.

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The garden sometimes has a healthy answer,

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I reckon that's why I love growing my own so much.

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Anywhere you look in the garden, you'll find something to inspire a saintly supper.

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If you find something that's just a picture of health, it looks so good.

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Just want to celebrate it for what it is -

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lovely healthy ingredient.

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And that's how I feel about these tomatoes.

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I mean, just sniffing them makes me feel good.

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For Tuesday's supper, these juicy tomatoes are going to take centre stage in a beautiful basil dressing.

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This one is pure goodness.

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What I'm going to do with these is roast them with...

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some of their...

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best friends, things that work so beautifully with them - garlic.

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Put in as much fresh garlic as you dare.

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Not going to chop this finely - I'm just going to cut it into...

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two or maybe three and tuck it into the tomato,

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and what happens is it that it just gently scents it.

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Thyme is another of the tomato's closest friends.

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They really bring out the best in each other.

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You know, you look at herbs in a pot, or in a shop

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and they're just another green thing.

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It's when you crush them between your fingers as you pick them,

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just makes you feel...

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so good, you can almost feel them doing you good.

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A few coarsely ground black peppercorns will add nuggets of warmth.

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Lastly, a good glug of olive oil.

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I want these to take on a chargrilled flavour, so they'll go into a really hot oven.

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It'd be really good to have something that

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really flatters the tomatoes rather than smothers them or hides them, a mixture of really green herbs.

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Flat leaf parsley, basil and the rest of my thyme is the ultimate fresh combination.

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And I want to brighten the flavour of this whole thing.

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A few capers will also add a bracing sharpness.

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Then it's just a case of whizzing everything together,

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with a good glug of fruity olive oil

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and a squeeze of lemon.

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I'm after a sauce or a dressing that I can pour easily.

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It's as simple as that.

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It's like the kitchen has suddenly been transported to Provence

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with that smell of tomatoes and thyme and garlic.

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And as the sauce hits the warm tomatoes, there's an amazing smell coming up.

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All lush and green and healthy.

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It seems only fitting

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to finish this meal where it started, or where most of it started.

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It's like the very essence of the garden and all that's good in it.

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It's just so green and fresh.

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Power of herbs, it's extraordinary.

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It's very straightforward, and for a healthy dish, remarkably satisfying.

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As much as I love my town garden,

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I sometimes dream of really living the good life.

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I spend an awful lot of time just sitting down with a cup of tea

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and just imagining what it would be like to live somewhere

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where the pace is slower, and where I've got much more space.

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In particular, space to grow things.

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Cat and Tom escaped the city life three years ago

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with their children Fergus and Amelie.

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Not surprisingly, they're loving every bit of their inherited veg patch

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in this stunning part of Devon.

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There's something lovely about watching fruit grow and ripen and go through the whole process.

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It's amazing that they turn from little flowers into apples.

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-I just think it's incredible.

-It's a wonderful obsession, but it does get you -

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there is that thing where I wake up first thing in the morning, go round the garden,

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and it's almost like I can't wait to see what's happened to things.

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The real star of the Raymond's family garden is this bountiful fruit cage.

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-Now, great raspberries.

-We've been picking these for...

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-Three weeks.

-And you've got masses more to come!

-They are really nice at the moment.

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They are looking good, I wouldn't mind a bit later, maybe picking some of those.

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Go and have a little look, and look at your blackcurrants.

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They're quite sharp. I think that one's a bit...

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With a spoonful of sugar.

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It's like a sort of fruit espresso, it's kind of...this jolt.

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I've got a thing about blackcurrants because I used to pick them when I was a kid,

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for pocket money,

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and when I prune them now, when I smell... The blackcurrant

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was a distinctive smell, and it's just like being 13 again.

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How much do we need to pay you to pick them? Maybe you could step back in time!

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I seem to remember it was a couple of quid a day!

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-That's what I was thinking.

-That sounds about right.

-That's fine, we can do that!

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OK. I think I can remember how to do this!

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But don't think I'm going to waste my efforts on some healthy fruit dish.

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No - I'm in the mood to whip up something a little wicked!

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Just rinse these fruits, to be honest.

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What do you do with all your blackcurrants?

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Make them into coulis, jam... Don't eat most of it.

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Difficult stuff to know what to do with.

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All the sour fruits are, because the ones that you can just pick

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and eat and the kids can just pick and eat, vanish. They do need a little bit of effort.

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-They do.

-Quite a bit of sugar, to be honest -

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these have had weeks of sun, but they're still really sharp.

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And I just leave those

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till the fruits burst, I mean you know that, until the...

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the skins pop,

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and then you just get this amazing dark juice and fruit.

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While that simmers away, I've got some lovely local double cream.

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This will really help take the edge off those sharp berries.

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Such a cool colour that double cream, it's much more yellow than the...

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-It's beautiful.

-It's a lovely colour.

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I'm going to put some yoghurt in, and I'm going to put it in because

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I just like that sort of hint of sharpness -

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not much, but just a little bit.

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And then it's so beautiful, it's worth every second of...

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pruning and getting prickled and getting scratched.

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I try not to stir mine too much, my fools.

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Looks delicious.

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-Mm.

-Complete difference, this, from very, very thick warming cream,

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and then very sharp coming through.

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And I quite like the yoghurt, it adds a certain sourness in a funny kind of way, I don't know.

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-It freshens it somehow.

-It freshens it.

-It's nice.

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Did you like yours?

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-I did!

-SHE LAUGHS

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I couldn't breathe it in quickly enough, that's my only complaint, but other than that, it was good!

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If all this has inspired you to grow your own,

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or you'd like some exciting recipe ideas for your fruit and veg,

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check out:

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Sometimes I want something to eat that just makes me feel good.

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Really quite healthy.

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Something fresh, and crisp,

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but also something that has a touch of luxury about it.

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So I usually go for a pure, saintly salad, served alongside a sinful, sensational dressing...

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..that starts off with two or three balls of gorgeous, creamy mozzarella.

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Now I could...

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put an olive oil dressing on this.

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It would be very classical...

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..but I want something that's going to emphasise the coolness of it.

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By using yoghurt, I'm introducing some acidity, so a bit of bite.

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Now to that, I want something bright and fresh and invigorating.

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Lovely sprigs of bright-tasting mint,

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and some basil, too.

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And one sprig of parsley.

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I don't really believe in the notion of food

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that's bad for you and food that's good for you.

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It's about creating a mixture of food that is all about pleasure.

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With food that makes you feel good in other ways, cos it's just so healthy and fresh.

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All my creamy dressing needs now is a bit of a kick...

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so a little chilli.

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If you want this to really tingle the taste buds, keep the seeds in.

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Then some orange zest.

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It sounds strange with chilli, but it works beautifully.

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Gently mix those together and leave them for a while,

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and then the mozzarella will slowly take up the flavours.

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There's quite a lot going on in this dressing, so I'm going to keep

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my salad very simple by using just a couple of root vegetables.

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My heart sinks when people talk about grated carrot salad, it's like something left over from the '60s.

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And yet it can be so good,

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just a little bit of lemon juice, maybe some mint, something to really give some life to it.

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A squeeze of lemon stops my grated carrots going brown.

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Beetroot is going in, too.

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Just think, all that wonderful red goodness.

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Beetroots don't only come...

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in red, you can quite often find the golden ones. Look at the colour.

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It makes you feel good just to see it, it's like the sun shining in the kitchen.

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A good trickle of healthy olive oil will bring the grated veg together.

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I've got the earthy sweetness of those root vegetables.

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Then this soft, melting...

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..very creamy cheese, the sort of food that makes me feel...

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..good just by looking at it.

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It's lemony and it's minty,

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and you've got the crunch of the carrots

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and this extraordinary exchange of textures.

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There's something very exciting about it in the mouth from all the herbs and crunchy roots.

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And then suddenly you get this hit of chilli - it's very dazzling,

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it's a completely dazzling mouthful is what it is.

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Made me feel good anyway.

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I love the good and bad in this dish.

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The veg couldn't get more saintly, and then that sublime

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mozzarella dressing makes me feel like I'm not completely missing out!

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One ingredient that splits people down the middle is honey.

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Is it good for you, or is it just basically sugar?

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No matter what you think, there's definitely something magical

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about how the flavour of honey can change,

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depending on a simple bee, and its choice of flower.

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On one estate by a deep sea creek in Cornwall,

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the bees have very rich pickings.

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Tregothnan has been in the same family since 1335,

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and they've had a passion for collecting trees and shrubs from all over the world.

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For bees that's really interesting, cos they get to eat things that they wouldn't normally get to see,

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and it's created a really... Well, I suppose, a paradise for bees.

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Jonathon Jones has been garden director at this estate for 14 years.

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It's his and his team's job to make sure the bees that live here

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keep busy, so they produce lots of different flavours of honey.

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There's huge diversity of honeys in this country that we don't even think about, even just in colour,

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that tells you a bit about the flora the bees have been feeding on.

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This very pale honey would actually be an early season,

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flora probably with a little bit of rapeseed in it, possibly.

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The spring flowering ones often aren't as strong-flavoured, so you can just eat it by the spoonful. Mmm!

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At the other end of the scale you've got things like this one,

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which might have a bit of heather in, and even possibly a little bit of ivy

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at the end of the season and that's great flavour, strong,

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more for the connoisseur.

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People in this country don't tend to cook or think of it much as an ingredient,

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and I don't why I could eat all of this myself, but... In fact I nearly have!

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People say, "I don't like honey", but they need to try some of the mild honeys,

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and then you gradually get sort of sucked into it. Try it on cereal, that's a good start.

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And then you end up thinking, "Actually, that's really nice", and you try it on something else...

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A good cook can do amazing things with honey.

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If there's one ingredient I think works particularly well with honey, it's duck.

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This is no saint, but then neither am I!

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Perhaps the most controversial ingredient of all is fat.

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I love it.

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Fat on a pork chop, fat on a piece of lamb.

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But the best one for me is duck fat, it's such a flavoursome fat.

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Place a couple of duck legs onto a fairly high heat, to give them a bit of colour.

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I'm going to roast these in a really simple sauce,

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with refreshing orange and lemon zest and a little ginger.

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What I'm getting here are...

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really bright, vivid, hot, sharp flavours

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that just balance the richness of the duck.

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I have a sort of personal philosophy about fat -

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I don't worry about the fat I can see,

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that wonderful white rim of fat on a piece of Parma ham,

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or the crackling on roast pork, I don't mind that.

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It's the hidden fat that I'm... Beware of.

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The stuff that you have to read the side of a packet to work out how much you're eating.

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To that I'm going to add some honey.

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Hopefully what we'll get is something quite crisp

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and slightly hot and citrus before we get in to the juicy meat below.

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A sprinkling of salt will help the skin to crisp.

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They'll sit in a really hot oven for about half an hour.

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There's no way I'm going to waste my duck fat -

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this will come out next time I'm roasting potatoes.

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About half way through cooking, when the honey's thickened,

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add a good squeeze of juice, just to freshen the rich duck meat.

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And I want something that is going to soak up all that flavour.

0:22:580:23:01

I'm going to put some figs in.

0:23:010:23:02

Figs are like little sponges, so you end up with...

0:23:020:23:06

something very soft and silky.

0:23:060:23:09

Pop back into the oven for 10 minutes, to let all the flavours come together.

0:23:090:23:13

It has a festive smell.

0:23:210:23:24

It's all the citrus and the sweet things.

0:23:240:23:26

It's truly, truly wonderful.

0:23:390:23:40

It's citrusy

0:23:410:23:43

and there's a tiny little peck of heat from the ginger.

0:23:430:23:47

But it's sumptuous as well, from the honey AND from the duck fat.

0:23:470:23:51

Everything comes together. Gorgeous, they're really gorgeous.

0:23:510:23:56

There's something quite medieval about this juicy, firm meat

0:24:000:24:05

and its sticky honey glaze.

0:24:050:24:07

And don't be shy to pick it up with your fingers either!

0:24:070:24:10

Sometimes, when I can't decide if I want to be healthy or indulgent,

0:24:200:24:25

I dream up a way of getting both onto the same plate.

0:24:250:24:29

It all depends how good or bad I've been during the week.

0:24:290:24:32

Tonight is one of those suppers.

0:24:320:24:35

A big plateful of saintly lush, crisp greens,

0:24:350:24:39

served with a silky cream sauce.

0:24:390:24:41

Sometimes I open the fridge and it's like looking into a greenhouse, it's just full of stuff.

0:24:420:24:48

All of which I've bought because it's so lush and verdant.

0:24:480:24:52

Peas are always favourite.

0:24:520:24:55

The pods are really waxy, it's brilliant green.

0:24:550:24:58

There truly isn't anything wrong with frozen peas,

0:24:580:25:01

I just like fresh ones.

0:25:010:25:03

The fact that I can pop them!

0:25:030:25:06

Cooking isn't just about the end product, it's about getting there,

0:25:060:25:10

and it's about the little pleasures

0:25:100:25:13

of cooking, and podding peas is one of them.

0:25:130:25:15

I've also got some crunchy French beans,

0:25:180:25:21

which will get a quick dunk with my peas in plenty of boiling water.

0:25:210:25:25

When I was a kid, I never liked broad beans.

0:25:280:25:30

I used to push them to the side of my plate,

0:25:300:25:33

and then I found that what I really didn't like about them was the papery skin on the outside.

0:25:330:25:38

The vivid green bean inside I loved.

0:25:390:25:42

I love all the flavours of these veg, they just ooze goodness.

0:25:430:25:48

If you're going to skin your beans, now's the time to do it.

0:25:520:25:56

Just split the skin and press, out they come.

0:25:570:26:00

Baby spinach finishes this off beautifully. This is good.

0:26:000:26:04

But it's also incredibly healthy,

0:26:040:26:07

it's almost puritanical, it's so healthy.

0:26:070:26:11

I want to dress it with something that's really quite creamy,

0:26:110:26:15

quite luxurious.

0:26:150:26:17

And I know just the dressing -

0:26:170:26:20

with mild mustard, sharp lemon juice,

0:26:200:26:23

a pinch of salt,

0:26:230:26:24

a trickle of olive oil and parsley.

0:26:240:26:28

Just a few of those leaves, absolutely no stems,

0:26:290:26:32

chopped quite roughly.

0:26:320:26:35

Then, a rebellious and indulgent helping of naughty cream.

0:26:380:26:41

But I just want a contrasting texture to the crisp veggies.

0:26:410:26:46

Mustard and cream works a treat.

0:26:470:26:49

Parsley and cream like each other in parsley sauce.

0:26:500:26:54

This to me is the best of both worlds.

0:26:580:27:01

It's my incredibly healthy portion of five a day,

0:27:010:27:05

but it's also got a touch of luxury.

0:27:050:27:09

It's a very saintly meal...

0:27:230:27:26

of crisp greens, very freshly cooked, very vivid,

0:27:260:27:30

and then, that naughty double cream.

0:27:300:27:33

Slightly sinful...

0:27:330:27:35

..but, oh, so gorgeous.

0:27:360:27:38

I'd be tempted to serve this with a tasty bit of ham.

0:27:410:27:45

It's sublime, sexy and virtuous all at the same time.

0:27:450:27:50

The perfect combination!

0:27:500:27:52

I don't really cook to be healthy. I cook for pleasure.

0:28:000:28:04

All of these dishes tick both boxes for me -

0:28:040:28:06

saint and sinner in varying degrees,

0:28:060:28:10

and each one proof that a little bit of what you fancy

0:28:100:28:13

certainly does you a lot of good!

0:28:130:28:16

Next time,

0:28:180:28:19

I'll be helping to bring a bit of daring into your cooking...

0:28:190:28:23

with a week of supper ideas that all have a definite sense of adventure.

0:28:230:28:28

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:28:490:28:52

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0:28:520:28:55

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