Episode 3 Nigella: At My Table


Episode 3

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Transcript


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This is very delicious.

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A table is more than a piece of furniture,

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just as food is more than mere fuel.

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When I moved into my first home many years ago,

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before I did anything else, I bought a table.

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And not just eat at, but to live around.

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Chin-chin, amici.

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-Cheers!

-Thank you.

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At my table, when I'm winding down at the end of a long day...

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They're ready for me, and I'm ready for them.

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..celebrating friendship at weekend feasts,

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or making memories with family,

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the food I eat is vibrant and varied,

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but always relaxed.

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Old favourites...

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So far, so good.

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..and fresh discoveries.

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I need to be alone with my sandwich now.

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The comfort of the familiar,

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combined with the exuberance of the new.

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I can hear how good this is going to be.

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The essential welcoming taste of home.

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There's no elegant way to eat them, and that's in their favour.

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Whether I'm pottering about at the stove or sitting at the table,

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I want pleasure, I want flavour, and I want ease.

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Life can be complicated, cooking doesn't have to be.

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MUSIC: I Only Want To Be With You by Dusty Springfield

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# I don't know what it is that makes me love you so...

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# I only know I never want to...

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This may not look like a carrot cake,

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but it IS a carrot cake.

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It's MY carrot cake, and it's very different

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from the richly sweet and loftily layered American

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original. In fact, nubbly with crystallised ginger and walnuts,

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and gloriously adorned with them,

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it does look rather more like a cosy old-fashioned English tea-time

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treat, and I often eat it like that.

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But it even more often, I bring it out at the end of dinner,

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and it's one of my most successful puddings.

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I have yet to make it without someone asking for the recipe.

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My carrot cake is relaxingly simple to make.

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Just a bowl and a wooden spoon number.

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I start off by coarsely grating 200 grams of carrots,

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and chopping up 75 grams of crystallised ginger.

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Then I break up 100 grams of walnut halves into small pieces.

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Next I want 200 grams of plain flour, half a teaspoon of bicarb,

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a teaspoon of baking powder, and a quarter of a teaspoon of salt.

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And now for the warm spice.

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Two teaspoons of ground ginger, and just fork everything together.

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Moving on, I tip 175 grams of soft light brown sugar into a large

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mixing bowl, and crack over two eggs,

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then pour in 200ml of vegetable oil.

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These just need to be mixed together.

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Then I gradually add the dry ingredients,

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and stir until everything's combined.

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Into the bowl go my grated carrots,

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and I stir these in before adding the walnut pieces and then the

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golden chopped crystallised ginger.

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Once everything's combined,

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I dollop the mixture into a lined 20cm springform tin.

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I give it a good rap on the counter to help level the batter.

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I bake it in the oven at 170 degrees for about 45 minutes,

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then I leave it to cool before I start on the icing.

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Just as with a traditional carrot cake,

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I'm making a cream cheese icing.

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I start off with 100 grams of soft unsalted butter,

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and 100 grams of icing sugar.

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I'm going to beat these together.

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And now...

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Now a teaspoon of cornflour.

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This helps the icing stay nice and thick.

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And I want 100 grams of cream cheese, but this has to be cold,

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straight from the fridge. Give it a little mix, so it's combined.

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And this is no ordinary cream cheese

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icing, because I want everything shot through with ginger.

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And I don't know if I've ever shown you my ginger juicing trick,

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but it's a crucial part of my cooking life.

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So coarsely grate some ginger out onto a plate.

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I want about a tablespoonful.

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And now, not pretty, but effective.

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A piece of kitchen paper.

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Moving swiftly, I don't want to get the paper soggy straightaway,

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I draw up each corner so I've got, like, a little swag bag.

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Just press on.

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You can see that juice coming out.

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I should get about a teaspoon of juice from a tablespoonful

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of coarsely grated ginger, and it is so intense.

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I do this all the time on soups and stews and curries and cakes.

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Right, let's give it a little stir together.

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And all that's left for me to do is swirl this on top of the cake.

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The thing about this cake, as I said,

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it's not a traditional carrot cake.

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It almost looks like a blonde fruitcake here,

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all rather lovely and lumpy and bumpy.

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And there's only one layer of icing, which I think is perfect.

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But a generous layer.

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I've got a few more chopped walnuts,

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and a little more crystallised ginger chopped up, up my sleeve.

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And these

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get scattered on top.

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Utterly gorgeous.

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Instant "eat me" appeal, if you ask me.

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And even if you don't.

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Pale gold sparkle.

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And it's an absolute winner every time.

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I absolutely loathe clothes shopping,

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but I can spend hours in places like this,

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looking for things to make my table beautiful.

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It's something of a weakness of mine.

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But, anyway, my table's going to look lovely enough,

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because I've got friends coming for supper,

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and I'm giving them my verdiglorious herbed leg of lamb.

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And alongside, there's garlicky roast potatoes

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with feta and oregano.

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Oh, and pudding.

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Pudding is my new go-to, a very special chocolate mousse.

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A roast leg of lamb is such a luxury and a treat,

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it deserves to be celebrated.

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My way of doing that is by anointing the meat with a fresh green paste,

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the chief component of which is oregano.

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It's very hard to describe exactly what oregano tastes like,

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it's certainly got a bitterness, but also such sweet warmth.

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I want a whole bunch

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of oregano here.

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A small bunch, but a whole bunch.

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And now, a time-honoured partnership, lamb and rosemary.

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I need less of the rosemary, because it is very pungent and resiny.

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And you could eat lamb without garlic,

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but it would seem to me to be an unnecessary deprivation.

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I've got four fat cloves here.

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And meat without salt is an abomination not to be contemplated.

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Let's go for two.

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I need oil, regular olive oil,

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to help turn this into a paste and moisturise the meat.

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And finally, from the department of zing and uplift,

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an orange and a lemon.

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Zest of both.

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This is where most of the flavour lies.

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And the lemon.

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And I want some juice, not too much,

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but about two tablespoonfuls of each.

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And I'm ready to blitz.

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And now for the lamb.

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Here we are. I want to make a few incisions,

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so that the paste infuses the meat.

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So this is my Psycho moment!

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Eeh-eeh-eeh-eeh!

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SHE LAUGHS

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It's a very runny paste.

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So I'm just going to spoon the green paste over the pink meat.

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Give it a little bit of a massage, to help the paste go into the meat.

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When it roasts, the greenness recedes,

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and what starts off really as a marinade,

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ends up as a fresh-tasting crust.

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It's a soft crust and browned in parts.

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But for now, I'm just going to leave the lamb here to steep a little

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before I put it in the oven.

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I pour some just-boiled water into the tin,

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to come about half a centimetre up,

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which keeps the meat lusciously tender and gives me gravy later.

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This goes into an oven at 180 degrees

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for around an hour and 40 minutes.

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Wherever I go, I pick up ideas for what I want to eat.

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I love Australia, but the lure for me isn't the sun.

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I mean, I shy away from that.

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But the food. And over the years,

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I have eaten my way very happily through Sydney,

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and I've recently discovered the joys of Western Australia.

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But when I was last in Melbourne, I ate the best chips of my life.

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They're fried in garlic steeped oil,

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and then once they're out of the pan,

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they're tossed with crumbled feta and dried oregano.

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And I am normally quite a prissy chip purist,

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but I was won over to the point of obsession,

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actually beyond the point of obsession, by these.

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I haven't tried to emulate them, but instead, inspired by them,

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I've created my own homespun version.

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I chunk up a tray full of potatoes, I don't bother peeling them,

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and pour over a good few glugs of olive oil.

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Then in goes a heady amount of grated garlic,

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and lots of dried oregano.

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Then I smoosh them about to mix.

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I love doing this by hand.

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I roast these in a 220 degree oven,

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until they're crisp and golden.

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No deep-frying involved, deep happiness achieved.

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Once the lamb with its soft herb crust is out of the oven,

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I leave it loosely tended with foil,

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and let it rest for up to 30 minutes.

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Everything else is ready,

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I'm just going to finish off my Greco-Australian potatoes.

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They're meltingly soft on the inside,

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and crisp and golden on the outside now.

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You can never have too many potatoes.

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So just like the chips I had in Melbourne,

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these potatoes are going to be sprinkled with feta.

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There is just something about the cool, smooth, saltiness of the feta,

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against the hot crispness of the potatoes.

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Now I'm going to toss these, because I want some of the bits of feta,

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the smaller bits particularly,

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to start melting slightly in the warmth.

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But I still want a sharp, cool crumble on top.

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And I know I've already got the dried oregano in these,

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but I cannot resist a final fragrant flourish of fresh oregano.

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And that's me done.

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Right, there we are...

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Right, who can I...?

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Oh, a bit of this...

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-I'm very, very pleased to hear it.

-Thank you for inviting us over.

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-Any time.

-Lovely.

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That looks delicious.

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For pudding, I'm making chocolate mousse,

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but not chocolate mousse as you know it,

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but an Iberian-inspired chocolate olive oil mousse.

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I want four eggs, separated. So far, so traditional.

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And I want the eggs at room temperature.

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Well, I nearly always do.

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And the last one.

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Before I whisk the whites,

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I'm just going to add a pinch of sea salt flakes.

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And here goes.

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I want firm peaks here.

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Let's see. Yes, perfect.

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And before I whisk the yolks, I want some sugar.

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Just 50 grams.

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It's caster sugar.

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I want some salt in here too. I suppose were I to measure,

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I'd say a quarter of a teaspoon of sea salt flakes.

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It doesn't make it taste salty, it just brings balance.

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Somehow you taste the chocolate all the more.

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I want to whisk the yolks

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until they're thickened and about doubled in volume.

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That's the whites done, the yolks done, and now for the chocolate.

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I've got 150 grams there, melted and slightly cooled.

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And on top of the chocolate I'm going to pour

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the olive oil. Extra virgin, 100ml.

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I like a smooth and spicy olive oil, nothing too raspingly peppery.

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Mix these together.

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And the thing is, the olive oil

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doesn't just bring its resonant flavour,

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it also creates such a voluptuously smooth and soft texture.

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And now I'm going to pour this glossy mixture into the yolks.

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A steady stream, that's the idea.

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This is really good, bitter chocolate, 70%.

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Don't be tempted to go higher though,

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because you'll end up with a powdery texture.

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Right, I'm going to fold in the egg whites.

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A third at a time.

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You can be really brutal with the first go.

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Stir it in.

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The first dollop really is just

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to make the rest of the egg whites easier to fold in.

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Right. So, if I want this in thirds, it's half what's in the bowl now.

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And now, gently fold.

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The texture of this mousse is not super aerated,

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as you would have in a traditional chocolate mousse,

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but I still don't want to beat out those bubbles.

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And the last bit.

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I know this seems very last minute, but unlike a traditional mousse,

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which needs to sit in the fridge for a good long time to set,

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the whole point of this chocolate olive oil mousse is that the texture

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isn't set. It's soft and smooth.

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So my chocolate mousse is made, but now for the difficult part.

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I have to fill these glasses.

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Just ignore me, because I'm going to have to concentrate.

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They're pretty small, these glasses.

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But believe me, you know you can.

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You don't need anything bigger, this is fabulously rich.

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Right, the last one.

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I like a little pause before pudding, which is good,

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as these need 20 minutes in the fridge before eating.

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Right.

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I'm going to pass this to you.

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I love chocolate...

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Delicious...

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It's perfect...

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I'm going to finish this in a minute.

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This is just the right amount.

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It's very light...

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While I love having friends over, I never need an excuse to eat.

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There are two rules in life.

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One, everything is better between two slices of bread.

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And two, everything is better when it's deep-fried.

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Now, normally, when I want to eat deep-fried food,

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I like to go out and let someone else get hot and bothered

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on my behalf, but my coconut shrimp are so easy and so unruffling to

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make, I am more than happy to cook them every time I need to eat them.

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And that is very often.

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And to go with my hot, crisp and juicy shrimp, I make a cool,

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smooth and golden dipping sauce.

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It's incredibly simple.

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To a bowl of coconut milk yoghurt,

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I add sea salt flakes and ground turmeric.

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Stir everything together, and that's it.

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The work of a mere moment.

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So, my golden yoghurt can mellow in flavour and deepen in tone,

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while I get on with my dredging operation.

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It's a bit of a production line, but it's not complicated.

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Rice flour for the initial dredge,

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which is grittier than regular plain flour,

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and seems to add an extra rustling crispness.

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Into my second dish, an egg.

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I'm going to mix the egg with a little sea salt.

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And into my third dish, some desiccated coconut.

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Or, as we call it at home, "desecrated coconut".

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And those dry strands make the prawns look like they're wearing

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a hairy jacket once they've been fried.

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On top of this, some panko.

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Now, panko are Japanese breadcrumbs,

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and actually "breadcrumbs" is a bit of a misnomer,

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because they're flakes rather than crumbs.

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And again, very dry, which makes everything incredibly crunchy.

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The mild sweetness of the coconut needs a bit of a kick,

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and for that I have cayenne pepper.

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Right, let's mix this with my hands.

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Before I start dredging and dipping,

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I'm going to tell you about this new method I'm trying.

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Because normally, when I do this sort of thing,

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I get what I call "goujon fingers".

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Which means I have these balls of rather claggy breadcrumbs at the end

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of each finger. So I'm going to try and do something that I was taught,

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which is you keep one hand for wet ingredients and one hand for dry.

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I'm nominating my left hand for wet and my right for dry.

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So the prawns are wet, so they go in my left hand.

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These are raw prawns, and they're fresh.

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I don't use frozen,

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because the liquid they give out would make the oil spit too much.

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The rice flour is dry, so I'm going to use my right hand.

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First sprinkle a bit on top of the prawns to cover them,

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and then turn them.

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OK, so dry hand, I'm going to drop them into the eggs wet.

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The rice flour really helps the egg adhere.

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Egg is wet, so I'm going to use my left hand now to turn.

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And then I lift up each prawn and waggle it over the egg to get rid of

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any excess, and in it goes to the coconut and panko.

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There you are.

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And again, I'm going to cover the prawns a bit with this mixture,

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right hand, because it's dry, of course,

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before I turn them. And I really think it's important at this stage

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to give them a proper thick coating.

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And then I like to sort of press and scrunch a bit.

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Just turn everything.

0:26:120:26:13

So far, so good. These plump little babies can sit here for safekeeping

0:26:170:26:22

just for the mo.

0:26:220:26:23

And that was so much fun I'm going in again.

0:26:260:26:29

I have got quite a few more prawns to use up,

0:26:460:26:51

but I'm very eager now to get onto the eating part of the process.

0:26:510:26:55

So I'll turn the heat on under the oil,

0:26:550:26:57

and while it heats up, I'm going to have a bit of a clean-up.

0:26:580:27:01

The oil's good and hot now,

0:27:080:27:10

so these plump little commas are ready to be dropped in.

0:27:100:27:13

When I say dropped in, go gently. Here we are.

0:27:130:27:17

Best sound.

0:27:200:27:21

It's important the oil is properly hot,

0:27:240:27:26

because this means by the time the outside is good and golden,

0:27:260:27:31

the insides will be cooked but still succulent and tender.

0:27:310:27:34

And while that's carrying on, I'm going to get my sauce ready.

0:27:420:27:45

Look at this now.

0:27:460:27:48

Golden ointment.

0:27:480:27:49

Basket, my spider. Let's see how this is all... Ah!

0:27:550:27:59

They're done. They're ready for me, and I'm ready for them.

0:28:020:28:06

Hot crisp prawns, cool smooth dip.

0:28:090:28:13

And inside all that crispness, the prawns are so lusciously tender.

0:28:240:28:28

I'm going in again.

0:28:280:28:30

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