Season's Eatings Nigella Express


Season's Eatings

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I am just full of the Christmas spirit

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and I bring tidings of comfort and joy, and I really do,

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because it's Christmas express style.

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Now, I don't mean the big day itself,

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which is always going to be a long haul.

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But the thing is, this time of year is full of so many days

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ready to be filled with festive treats and I have it all wrapped up.

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For inner glow, it's got to be holiday hotcake

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with lashings of eggnog cream for the grown-ups.

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Doing double duty as edible gifts and get-ahead goodies,

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spiced peaches and chocolate pistachio fudge.

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To get the party started, moreish, salt, sweet, spicy popcorn

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and frothy snowballs, my all-time favourite Christmas cocktail.

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Then, for a fabulous festive spread, gleaming ginger-glazed ham

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with roasted butternut squash,

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sprinkled with pecan nuts and morsels of blue cheese.

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This is fast, festive food to make your holiday season a snap.

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MUSIC: "Let It Snow" by Dean Martin

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# Oh, the weather outside is frightful

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# But the fire is so delightful

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# Since we've not place to go

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# Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow... #

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I'm crazy about this time of year. I really love it.

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I mean, why wouldn't I?

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Cos the thing about the seasonal express treatment,

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means it's full-on festivities and no fuss.

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And my holiday hotcake is a case in point.

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It's incredibly easy and it's so perfect.

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Warm, comforting, smelling of Christmas. Just right for anyone,

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even this lot, coming in from the cold.

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HE BUMPS INTO THE BARRIER

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-Careful!

-Sorry!

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When I want to wallow in the full-on spirit of Christmas,

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I make my holiday hotcake.

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It's somewhere between a pudding and a cake

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and sticky toffee at the same time.

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Full of spices that make it so warming

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and it's incredibly easy to make.

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I've got 150g of flour, and on top of that,

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I want 100g of light muscovado sugar.

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So dense and treacly, this, I love it.

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And now, some spice. I've got a teaspoon of ground ginger

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and then another teaspoon of ordinary ground mixed spice.

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That has a bit of everything in it -

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cloves, cinnamon, caraway, coriander seed.

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Now, a teaspoon of baking powder and that's the dry ingredients.

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About 125ml of milk, full-fat milk.

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And 60ml of ordinary, flavourless vegetable oil.

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I do this cos it's easier than mixing in butter.

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Finally, one egg, and mix it together. That's what I love about this,

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it's infinitely express and very basic,

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you just need a wooden spoon and a bowl.

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And then pour into a lightly buttered pie dish.

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It looks like there's not enough, but it spreads and rises as it bakes.

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Now, what I'm about to do may seem completely bonkers,

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but I promise you, it works. And it doesn't only work,

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it makes this fabulous sticky toffee sauce

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that sits on top before it goes in the oven,

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and then when it bakes, it splits and the sauce goes underneath.

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Thick, oozy, gorgeous.

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Now the spices again, exactly the same as before.

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A teaspoon of the ground ginger

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and the deeper, darker, mixed spice, a teaspoon again.

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And some butter, just cut off 6 teaspoon-sized nuggets

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and dot them on top of the sugar.

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And finally, the piece de resistance,

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if a bit on the alarming side,

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I pour 500ml of boiling water on top of the cake.

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It looks like a catastrophe, doesn't it?

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It's not that beautiful when baked,

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but it doesn't look like that, and it is delish.

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This goes into the oven for 30 minutes, it's pre-heated to 220,

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and once it's out I'll just let it stand for 10 minutes,

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just so it's not so piping hot and the layers have time to separate.

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And while the holiday hotcake cooks,

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I'm just going to get some cream from the fridge.

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Mmmm, need some whipped cream on top.

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Obviously, this isn't exactly hard work.

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So I'm just going to start whipping.

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It's rather lovely with ice cream as well,

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but this is my absolute favourite. You wait!

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Everything about this is easy,

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and I suppose what I like a lot about the holiday hotcake is

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you could never have baked before and you can just do it,

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and it would work. It looks odd, but it works.

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We're about right now.

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So, for the children, a snowy mound of softly whipped cream.

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But for me, my own treat, my eggnog cream.

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This is how simple it is - a bit of advocaat, carry on whisking

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and put in a few sploshes.

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Right, it's done. I'm just going to pile it into this goblet for me,

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just by itself, sheer Christmas.

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Does anyone have any scissors?

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Yep, over here.

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MUSIC: "It's Beginning To Look A Lot Like Christmas" by Perry Como

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Should be ready now.

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Ah, that is so Christmassy, the smell is gorgeous.

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Children, come on!

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This will warm you up.

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-Doesn't that look like snow there?

-Yeah!

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Did you enjoy the skating?

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I can't ice-skate, cos I don't glide, I run!

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Can I give anyone some more?

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We've managed to demolish this entire cake!

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This time of year really is the season of indulgence and sweet treats.

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So when I say that I am making a chocolate and pistachio fudge,

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I feel I'm making some sort of festive declaration.

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So that's 350g of really good, dark chocolate going in.

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It's so nice to have something home made and delicious

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to give people when they drop in, and there's a lot of dropping in at this time of year!

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And I love as well to package some of this up

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and give it to my friends.

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On top of that chocolate, I need a can, around 400g, of condensed milk.

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Look at it oozing out.

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And it's the condensed milk, I think,

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that helps you get that proper fudge texture.

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A confectioner may not want to call it fudge, but this is how I do it.

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Straight into a pan, no double boiler,

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and no need for sugar thermometers.

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So, on top of the chocolate and the condensed milk,

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I need 2 tablespoons of butter.

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And this goes on to melt.

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And I promised chocolate pistachio fudge, so here are my pistachios.

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Quite a lot of pistachios, 150g.

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And the reason I'm putting the pistachios into a freezer bag,

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is because I want to bash them and splinter them,

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so I have smaller pieces to disperse throughout the fudge.

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And this is easier than chopping.

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That's it, beautiful.

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I love the greenness of pistachios with some of that rose pink

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still on the skin around them, nothing like it.

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Stir to make sure everything is shinily combined.

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Now, in go the nuts...

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Get my foil tray.

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It's easier to get the fudge out of this later and no washing up.

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I mean, how ridiculously easy was this?

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And that's the end of it.

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In it goes in the tray.

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Spread the fudge mixture all over.

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So, when this has cooled, put on a lid, slip it in the fridge

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and it will set.

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No more work for me,

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and I've got ahead and feel happy.

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This room really comes into its own at this time of year,

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cos I love to have everything well-stocked

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so I know I've got everything on standby.

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This is one of my all time favourite Christmas quickies, spiced peaches.

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So I need four cans of peaches.

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Just as easy to make if you were using a small bit.

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I need some cloves.

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I've got a big stash, cos I get through a lot at this time of year.

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And some crumbled red chilli and cinnamon sticks,

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and now I will just shimmy off to the stove.

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I can't get through the holidays without ham, wouldn't want to,

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and I can't have ham without my spiced peaches.

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This is ultra express, no boiling away for two hours,

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just a question of opening four cans of peaches.

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I don't like canned fruit pretending to be fresh,

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but I want that preserved taste here. What you can't do, however,

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is use peaches that have been canned in fruit juice, you need the syrup.

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And obviously, I'm not just having canned peaches to have with the ham.

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Just a bit of flavour, a lot of flavour really,

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but done very easily. Some hot, fresh ginger, about an 8cm piece.

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Just peel it first, you can do this really easily

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by scraping the skin off with a teaspoon.

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So, just slice the peeled ginger into thin coins.

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I don't want to mince it in, because I want the syrup to stay clear

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so I can see the golden gorgeousness later.

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And in they go, and some cinnamon, lovely festive smell, the cinnamon.

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I'm just using 4 short sticks.

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And some cloves for that pungent muskiness, about 6 cloves.

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Black peppercorns - after all, this is savoury.

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About a teaspoon or so.

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Teaspoon of crushed, dried, red chillies,

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look, how beautiful, like fire.

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A little bit of salt, just a teaspoon.

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And finally, two tablespoons of rice vinegar.

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And this cuts through all the sweetness and the hit of the spice.

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So, on with the heat. I'm just really letting these warm through

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and then come to the boil and bubble for about a minute.

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And now, I'm going to start writing the label,

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because along with the fudge, these peaches make a wonderful present.

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I like giving food as a present.

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So that's ready and so are these.

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So now it's just a question of putting them in the jars.

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Now the juices go in, and the thing is,

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the peaches and syrup will continue to take on flavour

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as they get cool in these jars.

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And look how beautiful this is.

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I mean, who wouldn't want to be given this as a present?

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I'll put the label on when they've cooled,

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but since I'm in packing mode, I'm going to get my fudge now.

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Should be set. I'm going to cut this into 64 small pieces,

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in other words, eight down and eight across, then half again, and again.

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And then the same this way round.

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There we are. I'm just going to slip it out of the foil case.

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And that's what I call a piece of fudge!

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Should be easy to cut now... and it is.

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And these can go straight into a bag, lovely.

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That's enough, it's very rich. Tied with my gold ribbon...

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I'm hopeless at gift wrapping,

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I mean, I can make a book look like a bottle of wine,

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but this is quite easy. Put them in a bag, and you tie it with a ribbon.

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Tie a label round that beautiful jar of peaches.

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So that's my edible presents,

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effortlessly organised. I can stash them in the fridge for a while.

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This is where all the express strategies come together.

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Got a seasonal supper, five people coming round

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and it just couldn't be any easier.

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The centrepiece is a ginger glazed ham. The fabulous thing about it,

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apart from its taste, is that it requires only minutes of my time.

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And I've got my festive squash, so now all I need to do is make sure

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that the table looks as lovely as the food tastes.

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I'll artfully place some snowflakes for a bit of seasonal shimmer.

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The wonderful thing about this spread is,

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it's a meal you can just pull out of your hat any time during Christmas.

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So, right. I will get started with the squash.

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So, here's the plan.

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Something tasty to pick at with drinks,

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and drinks themselves are pretty special.

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And not just a side dish, but co-star with the glazed ham,

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my butternut squash.

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And the thing about the squash is that it really is a party piece,

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which is important at this time of year.

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Not least because this means you can make this

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and turn any meal of leftovers into a feast.

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Another thing in its favour is that it makes vegetarians feel loved.

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Everyone's a winner!

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You need 2kg of butternut, that's probably about two squashes,

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and chop each squash into about 2.5cm pieces.

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You will note that I am not peeling the squash,

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and that alone makes this very easy.

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But not only does the skin soften in the heat of the oven,

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but it seems to help the squash almost caramelise as it bakes.

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To this tray of gorgeous goldenness,

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I'm going to add three tablespoons of olive oil,

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just regular olive oil, not extra virgin.

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And half a teaspoon of dried thyme.

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I must say, I think thyme is one of those herbs

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that is as wonderful when it's dried as it is fresh.

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Slightly different, but still wonderful.

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The oven's preheated to 220 and this should take about half an hour,

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so I'll pop it in on my way to the drinks cabinet.

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When I was a child, I often stayed with a friend of mine

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at this time of year, and she had a fabulously flamboyant great aunt

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who always used to drink a snowball,

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and I thought this was the most glamorous thing I had ever seen,

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and I longed to be like her.

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Of course, I grew up a bit and I realised that a snowball was a drink

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greatly to be disparaged.

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But now I've got over that and the only thing I think is,

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"pour me one"! And that's what I'm going to do, cos I'm about to embark

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on my party popcorn. Not that it's very hard work,

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but I've got people arriving shortly and I think it's better always

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to have a drink before they arrive,

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so you're a bit more mellow - I don't like to drink much when they're there.

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So it's my way of just easing in to the party spirit.

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So it's about one part advocaat to three parts lemonade...

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and I put a big splash of ice in now.

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My lips are puckering in readiness for this. In with the lemonade.

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And then, this is my own touch,

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it's not really authentic, but a spritz of lime,

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just to make this even more refreshing.

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I'm just going to give everything a bit of a mix to combine, lovely.

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When you think about it, global warming notwithstanding,

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a snowball is an entirely seasonal drink.

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I've got everything ready, so I can give out drinks when people arrive.

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I'm going to do my popcorn.

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Happy holidays!

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So I'm imbued with the festive spirit

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and excitedly primed for my party popcorn.

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I need some oil, just two tablespoons,

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any oil will do, but the olive oil was nearby after the squash.

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And into the oil, 200g of popcorn maize.

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Ooh, I love this! So, heat on,

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and then immediately clamp the lid on

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and before that starts popping, I shall start melting my butter

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for the spiced coating.

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four tablespoons of butter,

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two teaspoons of ground cinnamon for that lovely welcoming warmth,

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two teaspoons of ground cumin, that gives real depth,

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a bit of a grown-up taste.

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And two teaspoons as well of paprika,

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this is mild, sweet paprika, gorgeously red.

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Four teaspoons of salt, and this is the only time, really,

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I use free-flowing and not coarse salt, and four teaspoons of sugar.

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I love salt and sugar together. So, heat under this.

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So, this should melt and the popcorn should start popping any minute now.

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CORN POPPING

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It's started. Mmmm.

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It's very tempting to take the lid off and peek

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to see how it's doing, but you do risk getting shot.

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Give it a bit of a shake.

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Just want to make sure all the bits of popcorn maize pop.

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Just going to be brave and dare a peek.

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See, look, it's not containable.

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Once the popping starts to recede slightly and slow down,

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then I'll take it off the heat.

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I think we're there.

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I present to you, the popcorn, still moving!

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And now I'm going to turn it into the party popcorn

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by pouring over these orangey, spicy, buttery juices.

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Just going to stir to make sure everything is shinily combined.

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I think I'm ready to pot up now

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and I've got quite a few of these dishes

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because everyone likes to plunge in to the party popcorn.

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I love the look of these, so really I think of it

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as part food, part decoration.

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Anyway, the best decoration is edible

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and I can dot these around the room, a few baubles nearby...

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Well, this should get everyone in the mood,

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this and the snowball, I mean, it's a pretty unbeatable combination.

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Look at this. I mean, luscious.

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There is no more festive sight than a glazed ham.

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I love everything about it. I could not have Christmas without a ham.

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And the thing about ham is it's actually really easy to make.

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This 5.5kg joint of gammon took 4.5 hours to cook.

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But the point about it is, why it's express for me

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is that it took me hardly any time to do anything to it.

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All I did was put the joint of ham in a large pan.

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Doesn't matter how large, as long as the ham fits.

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So, the only other ingredient you add to this pan is dry ginger ale.

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You do need a lot of ginger ale, you need seven litres of it,

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but this is such an express way to add flavour.

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Bring the pan to the boil, lower the heat slightly.

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You want the pan to keep bubbling, but bubble steadily for 4.5 hours.

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Not exactly speedy, I concur, but the thing is,

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I need do nothing to the ham in this time, and believe me,

0:23:460:23:50

at this time of year, I've got so much wrapping and organising,

0:23:500:23:53

I could use the time.

0:23:530:23:55

But towards the end of the ham's cooking time,

0:23:550:23:58

I preheat the oven to 220, and I get on with my glaze.

0:23:580:24:05

The glaze is as simple as it is delicious.

0:24:050:24:08

Put 200g of chunky ginger preserve into a bowl,

0:24:080:24:13

and then stir in two tablespoons of hot English mustard.

0:24:130:24:17

To the bowl, add 100g of dark muscovado sugar

0:24:170:24:21

and half a teaspoon of cloves and mix everything together.

0:24:210:24:24

Now, if you can't get the ginger preserve,

0:24:240:24:27

do not get in a state about it. Simply use ordinary orange marmalade

0:24:270:24:31

and add a teaspoon of dry ground ginger.

0:24:310:24:35

And when the ham has had its 4.5 hours,

0:24:350:24:38

gently and carefully lift it out of the hot pan

0:24:380:24:42

and put it on a foil-lined baking tray or a foil tray.

0:24:420:24:46

Carefully cut away the skin, leaving a thin layer of fat

0:24:460:24:50

and then just slap on the glaze. You don't need to score anything,

0:24:500:24:54

you don't need to stud with cloves. The glaze goes on,

0:24:540:24:57

and put the tray with the ham in the preheated oven for 20 minutes.

0:24:570:25:01

And when that ham comes out, it will be burnished and bronze

0:25:010:25:08

and the small cubes of ginger from the preserve will be glistening.

0:25:080:25:11

This is beautiful and you can eat it hot or cold.

0:25:110:25:15

I think I've got more than enough ham carved now for the six of us.

0:25:170:25:20

Everything is done, more or less, and I am calm, collected

0:25:200:25:24

and just infused with the holiday spirit.

0:25:240:25:26

-Care for a snowball?

-Yes, please!

-It's only right and proper.

0:25:360:25:39

Very good. It's divine!

0:25:390:25:40

It's like ice cream soda for grown-ups.

0:25:400:25:43

-Anybody like to have some popcorn?

-I'd love some popcorn.

0:25:430:25:46

It's very spicy and delicious.

0:25:460:25:47

-Cheers to you, and sit down, because I want to ply you with food.

-Oh, excellent!

0:25:470:25:51

That is so beautiful, look at it.

0:25:580:26:01

I'm going to transfer this to my seasonal green platter.

0:26:010:26:07

And the really useful thing about this squash

0:26:070:26:11

is that you don't need to eat it piping hot. You just dish it up,

0:26:110:26:14

and if people are late, it'll still be wonderful.

0:26:140:26:18

And as the glazed ham is already cold, as are the spiced peaches,

0:26:180:26:23

you can be very relaxed about when people turn up,

0:26:230:26:26

which is useful at this time of year.

0:26:260:26:28

And now, in a way, I'm going to besmirch

0:26:310:26:34

the beautiful goldenness of the squash

0:26:340:26:36

by crumbling over some blue cheese.

0:26:360:26:39

But although it'll only look a bit less beautiful,

0:26:390:26:42

it will taste divine. I just use a packet,

0:26:420:26:45

about 125g or so of blue cheese.

0:26:450:26:48

You could use any you want. This is St Agur,

0:26:480:26:51

which I love because it's soft and melts into the squash beautifully.

0:26:510:26:55

Though I suppose you could use any sharp goat's cheese.

0:26:550:26:58

And on top of the soft saltiness of the cheese,

0:26:580:27:02

just tumble in 100g of dark, smoky pecans.

0:27:020:27:07

Perfection. Anyway, I'd better take this back out to the hungry hordes.

0:27:100:27:16

Here we are, let the festivities commence.

0:27:160:27:20

Your favourite cheese!

0:27:200:27:21

-I know, I put blue cheese on everything!

-Do you really?

0:27:210:27:24

-Well, it kind of adds instant flavour.

-Those peaches are intense.

0:27:240:27:28

Oh, good! These did start off as peaches a long time ago.

0:27:280:27:33

But then, I had to rescue them from their cans.

0:27:330:27:35

THEY LAUGH

0:27:350:27:37

I'm going to take the fudge out for everyone before they go, too.

0:27:410:27:44

I'll leave mine in the fridge

0:27:440:27:46

and just eke it out over the next week or so...as if!

0:27:460:27:50

-OK, I come rustling in with goodies!

-Hurray!

0:27:530:27:56

-Peaches for you, my baby.

-Oh, thank you!

0:27:560:27:58

And chocolate pistachio fudge for everyone. Happy Christmas!

0:27:580:28:02

-Oh, look, how beautiful!

-There you are.

0:28:020:28:04

-Thank you.

-Happy Christmas!

0:28:040:28:06

-So kind.

-Thank you!

0:28:060:28:08

Gone by the time we get home, I'm assuming!

0:28:080:28:10

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0:28:240:28:27

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