The Big Freeze Nigella's Christmas Kitchen


The Big Freeze

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# The snow is snowing... #

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They don't call it the bleak midwinter for nothing.

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As the nights close in and the weather turns, home can seem a long way away.

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But what saves me from eternal decline

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is the knowledge that just around the corner

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is the irrepressible sparkle of Christmas.

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Cynics may carp, but I wallow in it all.

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And the minute the city begins to transform itself

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with the festive sparkle, so does my Christmas kitchen.

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Cloves, cinnamon and of course cranberries

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add a spicy depth to my star-topped mince pies.

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I need the velvety warmth of my roast squash and Stilton soup.

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And my star from the east, a gloriously spicy lamb tagine

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with dates, with its red onion, coriander and pomegranate relish.

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# ..How much it may storm

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# You see I've got my love

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# To keep me warm... #

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Here's my moment, when at last I've got the time

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to enjoy being in the kitchen,

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cooking and sharing my table with friends.

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But the all-important thing is to hold on to all of that

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and not get overwhelmed by the burdens of feeding everyone.

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I know it's difficult. You have an ally, and your best friend at this time of year is the freezer.

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Time for a little drink, I think.

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The drink I need is my lychini.

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What it is, really, just a martini but infused

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with the fragrance of lychee, which I think are very Christmassy.

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Right, get everything I need.

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Very simple. I do it by ratios,

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which means you can do either a glass or a pitcher.

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So, one part chilled vodka...

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one part white rum,

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and two parts creme de lychee.

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I know it's a fancy ingredient,

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but this time of year demands a little bit of excess.

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And I'm going to do what every barman would hate,

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and that's add some ice.

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And now my final touch, a little garnish of lychee.

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I'm using canned, I'm afraid, simply because when I peel a fresh lychee

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I just massacre it and I've got nothing to look pretty in the drink.

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It's so hard to describe the taste of a lychee.

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In fact, I don't think it's got a taste so much as a scent.

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It's like spring blossom at Christmas.

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Chin-chin! Mmm.

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# ..What do I care how much it may storm?

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# Cos I've got my love to keep me wa-a-a-rm. #

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A bit of novelty is all well and good at this time of year,

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but Christmas is really about tradition,

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and this is where mince pies,

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my little star-topped mince pies come in.

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I used to think that, really, it wasn't worth your effort

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making your own mince pies, and it wasn't so long ago I thought that.

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And it's true. You can buy perfectly decent mince pies at the shops,

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but I feel so safe and secure knowing that at Christmas

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I've got just a load of these stashed in my deep-freeze.

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The thing is, not only are mince pies very easy to make,

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but it's just so gratifying.

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And this gorgeous feeling is all too easy to achieve.

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First you've got to make your pastry.

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I make a very straightforward, plain pastry.

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I don't think mince pies need any sweet dough at all. Nothing rich.

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Measure out 240g of plain flour into a dish, and into that flour,

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just cut up about 60g of chilled butter

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and little teaspoons of the same weight of vegetable fat,

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and sit that in the deep-freeze for about 20 minutes.

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And it's that brief immersion in the deep-freeze

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that makes the pastry so pliable and relaxingly easy to roll out,

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and later so tender and flaky to eat.

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And while the flour, butter and vegetable shortening are in the deep-freeze,

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squeeze an orange into a little jug, add a pinch of salt

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and put that into the fridge.

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So after these 20 minutes, put the flour with the frozen fats

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into a free-standing mixer

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and then start mixing until

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you've got what looks like a pale pile of rather porridge-like crumbs.

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And then, once that happens,

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you start pouring in the salted, chilled orange juice.

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I use the juice of an orange rather than just water for two reasons.

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One, because the scent of orange is just so Christmassy.

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Also, it's the acid in the orange

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that helps the pastry stay so tender.

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So when the dough's at this point of just looking like it's about to cohere into one whole,

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squidge it together and then form it into three fat little patties.

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Just wrap these in cling and put them in the fridge.

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If the pastry was simple enough,

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the mincemeat, real home-made mincemeat, is child's play.

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It's the work of moments.

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That's if you call just tipping things into a pan and letting them simmer "work".

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We start off positively...

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with some ruby port. Mm!

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Look at that.

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Then some dark brown sugar. So treacly-smelling.

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And the minute you put the heat on,

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you can smell that waft of mulled wine,

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which is essentially what's going on here.

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Now, my mincemeat is a slightly modernised, lighter version, even,

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which is surprising, I know.

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So instead of some grated cooking apple,

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I'm adding fresh cranberries.

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You can use frozen. Don't bother to thaw them.

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Ah, look at those!

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Plumptious beauties.

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Spice. You need spice.

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Got to have spice in mincemeat.

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Some ground ginger, a spoon.

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The same of cinnamon.

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And half of ground cloves.

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And smelling this, you really sense the medieval origins of mincemeat.

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Give it a stir,

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so that all their gleaming redness

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is slicked in the dark, spiced syrup.

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I like it when it starts bubbling. Right, some dried fruit.

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You have to have dried fruit. That is essentially what mincemeat is.

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Some raisins...

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sultanas.

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I never used mixed peel because I don't like it.

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And strangely, I'm not using suet here, so for once

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I'm keeping company with the healthy-living brigade.

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Very disconcerting.

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This is actually quite light but what's so fantastic about it

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is that it's rich and boozy,

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but fresh and fruity at the same time.

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Some dried cranberries.

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These will glisten like garnets later.

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And finally...the zest and juice

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of a clementine, or satsuma. Whatever you've got.

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That orange snow on all the gleaming, gorgeous redness.

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I want the juice but I can't be bothered to get a proper squeezer.

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Just do it by hand.

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Get some pulp out this way too, which is good.

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So this needs to simmer for 20 minutes.

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And while that is happening, I can get on with rolling out my pastry.

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Right, so, this has cooled a little.

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So the piece de resistance, some brandy.

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Droplet of almond extract.

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Slightly more generous splosh of vanilla.

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And a squirt of honey.

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I like to beat this quite a bit with my wooden spoon.

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Not that I want mush, but more

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just to encourage it to turn into berry-beaded paste.

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Well, this beautiful cranberry-studded mincemeat is cool,

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and so I can fill these teeny little pastry cases.

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If I could sing, I would be bursting into a carol now.

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But I really can't, so it's just going on inside my head.

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# Sleigh bells ring Are you listening?

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# In the lane snow is glistening... #

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What I find makes my life easier, which is important at all times,

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but never more so than at Christmas,

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is that I can cook all of these in one go.

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Just in a hot oven for about 15 minutes.

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And then the ones that I want later,

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I will pop, cooled,

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in the deep-freeze, ready to be reheated at a later date.

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And the thing is that frozen, thawed, reheated,

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they are still perfect.

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Crisp pastry,

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gorgeous, spicy, gooey interior.

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# ..He'll say, "Are you married?"

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# We'll say, "No man

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# "But you can do the job when you're in town"

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# Later on we'll conspire

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# As we groove by the fire

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# To face unafraid

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# The plans that we've made

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# Walking in a winter wonderland

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# La-di da-di-da di-da-di-da... #

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I've come down into the icy depths

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to stash away my mince pies in the freezer,

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not that they'll last very long there, I have to say,

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unlike a lot of the stuff I keep frozen.

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For example, I've got some chicken necks and feet, bought in the hope

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that I would make some fantastic soup.

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They're known in the trade as walkie-talkies.

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And that is some ostrich.

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A hangover from my rare meats phase, short-lived, I have to say.

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But the thing about the deep-freeze at this time of year

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is that it's really a seasonal store cupboard for instant meals.

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A case in point is my sweet potato and butternut soup.

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I have to have a regular supply of this at this time of year,

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because it really is one of my firm freezer favourites.

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# Merry Christmas baby... #

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Peel and chop an onion and then chop and de-seed a butternut squash. Don't bother to peel it.

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Then don't bother to peel, either, a sweet potato, but slice it

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and put all three on a baking tray.

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# ..Merry Christmas baby... #

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Sprinkle with some cinnamon and nutmeg,

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and drizzle over with some olive oil, regular stuff.

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Then put in a hot oven for about an hour.

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# ..Gave me a diamond ring for Christmas

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# And I'm living in paradise... #

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Mm! Perfect.

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This would be a fantastic no-fuss vegetable dish just as it is.

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For now, I'm after soup,

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so I'm going to blend it.

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The un-peeled sweet potato and butternut

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and the bits of almost-charred but certainly softened onion

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go into the blender.

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It's better to do it in two or three batches, really.

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And now into the blender, about 500ml of vegetable stock.

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And when I say stock,

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it's just hot water and vegetable bouillon granules.

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A teeny bit more.

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Right. It's quite helpful if you've got a blender

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with one of these steam outlets at the top.

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Otherwise wait until the soup is a bit cooler when you blend.

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And the moment of truth.

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There we are.

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It could hardly be simpler.

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I do like a little flourish at the end though.

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So, against the sweet graininess of the soup,

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I'm going to add a drizzle of buttermilk,

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although you could use natural yoghurt, and blue cheese.

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Salt and sour, against this honeyed richness.

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I know it looks a bit too thick right now

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but I've got some more broth which I can use to thin it down

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and get it to just the right consistency.

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Thick and velvety,

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but not gloopy.

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If you're having this to help you after a Christmas party hangover,

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I suggest a few drops of really devilishly hot chilli oil.

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But for now, I'm content to make my blue cheese drizzle.

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Now, an advanced taste of the Christmas Stilton.

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Just crumble it in.

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And although I like buttermilk, it can be hard to get,

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so any runny plain yoghurt is fine.

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So the salt here with the cheese and the sour tang of the buttermilk

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combine absolutely brilliantly.

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That's it. And we blitz again.

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Right. We need to pour.

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A perfect counterpoint to this in colour as well as taste.

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Now, if you're making the soup in advance,

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you may find you want to add some liquid as you reheat.

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For now it's perfect, and I think I can afford a ladle or two.

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And yes, I know my blue cheese swirl is a bit '80s...

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..but, you know, what's wrong in that?

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Mm!

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Nirvana for Noel.

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# ..Merry Christmas pretty baby

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# You sure been good to me

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# Well I haven't had a drink this morning

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# But I'm all lit up like a Christmas tree... #

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For me, Christmas is about the cosiness, the comfort of traditions.

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And my way of heralding in the season is by making sure

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I'm at a table loaded with food and surrounded by friends.

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One of the suppers I like to do most for friends at this time of year

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is something which is luscious and full of Eastern promise.

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A tagine studded with dates and cooked in pomegranate juice.

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And with this scented and spiced stew

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I like to festoon and adorn it with my pomegranate and red onion relish.

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A fantastic tangle of puce onion and scarlet beads,

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and flecked with green coriander.

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But much as I love tradition, I adore making new discoveries,

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and my latest and, I have to say, most enthusiastic discovery

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is from an American 1950s diner classic.

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The girdle-buster pie, which I've adapted and made my own

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by layering up crushed digestive biscuits with butter

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and chocolate chips and then a cool, smooth layer of coffee ice-cream.

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And on the top, the gooiest, chewiest bourbon-laced butterscotch.

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And it's incredibly easy to make, not least because the freezer does all the work.

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First you process some digestive biscuits

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along with some soft, unsalted butter and some chocolate chunks.

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You should end up with a damp, sandy rubble which you just tip out

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and press into and up the sides of a flan dish.

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Put this into the freezer for about an hour to firm up.

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Slightly soften some good, shop-bought coffee ice-cream,

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just enough to be scooped

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and spread into the prepared case,

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and then cover with cling and stick this back into the freezer.

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And now for the girdle-buster pie's crowning glory.

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You do need to cook the butterscotch sauce but it's not hard.

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Pour some golden syrup into a saucepan

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and melt it on a low heat with some butter and muscovado sugar.

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Now turn up the heat a bit and bring it to the boil, and let it bubble away for five minutes.

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Now turn off the heat and add the bourbon.

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Then stir in some double cream,

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and it's the cream that turns the caramel in the pan

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into a butterscotch sauce.

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Let this cool but not set.

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Then pour it gloopily and glossily

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over the ice-cream layer in the flan dish.

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This is a real seasonal splurge,

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but as Mae West said, "Too much of a good thing can be wonderful."

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# Some folks think you're happy

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# When you wear your smile

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# What about your tribulations?

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# And all...all of your trials?

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# Smile

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# Smile at lots of things

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# The good the bad the hurt... #

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This tagine is the traditional way

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I kick off my seasonal spirit-lifting suppers.

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Right, onions.

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Just need to be roughly chopped.

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There's something so reassuring, I always find,

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about the way so many recipes start with, "Chop some onions."

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And in this tagine, these onions are cooked so softly and so slowly

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that they really infuse everything with glorious sweetness.

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And sweetness, I think, is both festive and comforting.

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And what better combination?

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So, heat on.

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Some oil. Just flavourless vegetable oil

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or ordinary not extra virgin olive oil will do.

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After Christmas I use goose fat.

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And now the onions...can cook.

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Ah, I love the sound of the sizzle.

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It's like when you have a fire and it crackles.

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Such a cosy-making sound.

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I should confess that I often call a stew a tagine

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just because I think it makes it sound

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so much more exotically alluring,

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but this actually can properly be called a tagine

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because its inspiration is entirely Moroccan.

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So these onions are soft,

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and now they can be spiced up

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because I'm after the scent of the souk.

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With cinnamon.

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Some turmeric to lend its fabulous goldness.

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And I love the peppery warmth you get from ground ginger.

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Some ground cumin.

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For me, that is the scent of the Middle East.

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And finally, because this is a "more is more" time of year,

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some allspice.

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I'm telling you, you can dispense with the scented candles

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if you make this tagine.

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That's it, and I'm ready for my lamb.

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I'm going for diced leg here. And I have to say that

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even if you're not using a traditional tagine,

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there's no need to, it's good to use a wide and shallow casserole

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simply because you can brown the meat more

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and you need less liquid. Do you know what?

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I'm going to put it all in at once.

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I probably shouldn't...

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but, hey, let's live a little.

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You don't need to be too fastidious

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about browning the meat.

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I just want to stir slowly...

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but thoroughly...

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to give it a light searing.

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Now, you can't have Christmas without dates,

0:22:110:22:14

and there is something about having rich fruit

0:22:140:22:17

in meat dishes that does feel even more Christmassy to me.

0:22:170:22:21

These are so gorgeously sticky.

0:22:230:22:25

To punctuate that grainy sweetness

0:22:270:22:30

of the dates, but to keep it in its exotic milieu,

0:22:300:22:36

some pomegranate juice with that sour, sharp tang.

0:22:360:22:41

Beautiful colour as well.

0:22:410:22:43

Don't need too much. Top up with water.

0:22:430:22:47

Now all I need is some salt

0:22:500:22:51

And to give this a good stir.

0:22:540:22:56

If you're using a regular casserole, you can just put the lid on

0:22:560:23:00

and pop this in a really low oven for about two hours.

0:23:000:23:03

But if you are using a tagine, with its conical, funnel-like lid,

0:23:030:23:07

it almost turns this into an oven

0:23:070:23:09

of its own and I can leave it there with its hat on,

0:23:090:23:12

simmering gently for about two hours.

0:23:120:23:14

And when my guests arrive, I have to say,

0:23:140:23:16

they'll be met with the most fabulously-welcoming smell.

0:23:160:23:19

# The snow is snowing

0:23:190:23:22

# And the wind is blowing

0:23:220:23:25

# ..But I can weather the storm... #

0:23:250:23:31

OK? Drink time. Thanks for doing that.

0:23:310:23:33

You can't have too much of this, actually. You really can't.

0:23:330:23:38

Can I hand you these, a lychee in your lychini?

0:23:380:23:41

Now, it has got a kick to it.

0:23:410:23:43

-I'm sure it has.

-I won't give you too much.

-Yeah, thank you.

0:23:430:23:46

LAUGHTER

0:23:460:23:48

It is, but I can't really...

0:23:490:23:51

I put some of the juice in the drink.

0:23:510:23:53

Take the two bottles out.

0:23:530:23:55

I'm going to leave you just for a moment,

0:24:000:24:03

-only because I'm going to feed you before you drink more.

-Ah.

0:24:030:24:06

# ..I've got my love to keep me warm... #

0:24:080:24:13

I'm making my red onion and pomegranate relish.

0:24:130:24:16

I've got a red onion here which I'm going to cut in half,

0:24:160:24:21

and then slice into fine half-moons. Steady.

0:24:210:24:25

And these go into the pomegranate juice.

0:24:260:24:30

And on top of the pomegranate juice and on the onions,

0:24:320:24:35

I'm going to add some lime juice.

0:24:350:24:38

The lime juice, along with the pomegranate juice,

0:24:380:24:41

offers acidity, which not only takes the harshness out of the onion,

0:24:410:24:47

but it also helps make it a fantastic, almost lit-up, pink.

0:24:470:24:53

Those are almost ready. The tagine is ready.

0:24:540:24:58

Time for the final jubilant assembly. You wait.

0:24:580:25:02

Lift the macerated onion out of the steeping liquid.

0:25:020:25:06

Beautifully pink. And we're going with my hot-pink tablecloth,

0:25:060:25:09

which I'm very pleased about.

0:25:090:25:11

Now some pomegranate seeds,

0:25:120:25:18

and then some salt.

0:25:180:25:20

And then some more pomegranates,

0:25:200:25:22

because I cannot resist those beautiful jewels.

0:25:220:25:27

And a little seasonal snipping, with my red scissors, of coriander.

0:25:270:25:32

It's all come together.

0:25:360:25:38

Pomegranate and red onion relish for the tagine.

0:25:380:25:42

-Delicious.

-Lovely colours.

0:25:420:25:44

I know. Not subtle, is it? I put the B in subtle.

0:25:440:25:47

# ..Just watch those icicles form

0:25:520:25:57

# What do I care if icicles form...? #

0:25:580:26:02

I'm going to give you some of this soup and you can help yourselves.

0:26:020:26:06

# ..I've got my love to keep me warm

0:26:060:26:08

# Off with my overcoat

0:26:130:26:17

# Off with my gloves

0:26:170:26:20

# Who needs an overcoat?

0:26:200:26:23

# I'm burning with love

0:26:230:26:26

# My heart's on fire

0:26:260:26:29

# And the flame grows higher... #

0:26:290:26:33

I'll be back in a moment.

0:26:330:26:36

Well, if I'm kicking off Christmas, I start as I mean to go on.

0:26:360:26:40

This is no time for restraint. Hence, of course...

0:26:400:26:43

..the girdle-buster,

0:26:440:26:47

in all its gluttony-gratifying glory. Look at that.

0:26:470:26:51

I just so love the mixture between

0:26:510:26:53

crumbly, knubbly, chocolaty biscuit and the smooth ice-cream, so cold.

0:26:530:26:58

And then, of course, that bourbon-laced butterscotch.

0:26:580:27:02

Don't say I never look after you.

0:27:020:27:05

It's cruel but it's necessary.

0:27:070:27:09

-Ah!

-You wait.

0:27:090:27:11

It is what it says.

0:27:110:27:13

# ..So I will weather the storm

0:27:150:27:21

# What do I care how much it storms?

0:27:210:27:26

# I've got my love to keep me warm

0:27:300:27:35

# I've got my love to keep me warm... #

0:27:370:27:41

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:27:410:27:44

E-mail [email protected]

0:27:440:27:47

# Santa baby forgot to mention one little thing

0:27:500:27:56

# A ring

0:27:560:27:58

# I don't mean on the phone Santa baby

0:27:580:28:03

# So hurry down the chimney tonight

0:28:030:28:07

# Hurry down the chimney tonight

0:28:080:28:11

# Hurry...tonight. #

0:28:150:28:19

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