Continental Breads Paul Hollywood's Bread


Continental Breads

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In Britain, we eat nearly nine million loaves of bread every day,

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most of them bought in bakeries, shops and markets.

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But I reckon some of the very best bread you can eat,

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is the bread you bake yourself.

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Great taste. Earthy, rich, full of history.

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That's how all bread should be made.

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I think every home is improved by it, so I want to show you

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that making bread in your own kitchen

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is much more satisfying than buying a loaf,

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because it's a feast for your family and for your senses.

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The smell of it...

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the feel of it...

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It's beautiful stuff.

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..the look of it...

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Not like the ones you buy in the shops. It's more special than that.

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-CRUNCHING

-..the sound of it...

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This is a beautiful loaf.

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..and the taste of it.

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Wow!

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It just tastes so good. You've got to try it.

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I want to show you that making bread is simple, really.

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'You mix, you knead, prove, shape,

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'prove again, then, finally, bake.'

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Some loaves I show you may seem complicated,

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but with time and focus, you can grasp them all,

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as I will guide you every step of the way.

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Once you've mastered them,

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I'm going to reveal how bread can be much more than just a loaf.

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It can be a meal in itself.

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It's one of the only things that will keep my mouth shut!

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So, there's no excuses - get baking!

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In this programme,

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I'm going to unwrap the secrets of some classic European breads.

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From Italy, I'll show you how to make this trio -

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an airy ciabatta -

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which might test your baking skills -

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crunchy biscotti - which won't -

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and the ultimate easy-peasy pizza.

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While all the way from Germany,

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I learn the tricks of the pretzel trade.

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There, you see? That's too fast!

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I'm actually going to start by showing you

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one of the most iconic breads in the world - the baguette.

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The baguette's name comes from a Latin word meaning "walking stick".

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So it's the long stick.

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But the ones we're going to make here

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are going to be able to fit in your home oven.

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This recipe will make two mini baguettes.

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And, like many breads, it starts with strong white flour, salt,

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yeast, and quite a lot of water -

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which means I'm not going to knead this by hand.

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Wet dough makes it quite tricky to deal with by hand,

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but the use of a mixer, or more importantly, the way the you mix it,

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will make a fantastic baguette.

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Now, olive oil.

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It'll give the bread a bit of life, a bit of longevity.

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Water - at least half straight into the bowl.

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Start on its lowest speed first.

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The flour will gradually absorb the water

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and, at full speed, the gluten builds up, so the dough becomes

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strong, but stretchy.

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It looks a lot smoother now.

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Drop it in the flour...

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..and you can see it stretching quite well.

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And smooth.

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That's a lovely little dough.

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That'll make two baguettes, that.

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I'm going pop that into the bowl...

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cover it up...

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and leave it alone for two hours.

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Et voila! As the French would say.

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And you have a light, stringy...

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glutinous...dough.

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There's the structure.

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The gluten's been built up... and it stretches quite a bit.

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One thing I love about the baguette is the shaping.

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This is very simple to do.

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Stretch to get the tension.

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Fold over. Flatten.

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Flatten it down, fold over the top,

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and again, and again, and again,

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so you end up with a line down the middle.

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Start in the middle...and then roll...out.

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It's magic.

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You get the shape. Go through it again.

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Little bit of flour. Flatten it down.

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Be very gentle when handling the dough,

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so as not to let too much air out of it.

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Fold over the top,

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use the heel of your palm and your fingers all the time.

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Start in the middle and then just taper.

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Put a little bit more pressure on the ends and taper it off.

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'I'm using a special rounded baguette tray

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'that will fit into your home oven.

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'These are available online and from kitchen shops.'

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You need to leave that to prove for at least another hour

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and it will double in size.

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But leave it alone now.

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'To prove, you can put it in a plastic bag

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'to keep the dough from forming a skin.'

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I've got a mixture here of semolina and flour.

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I think the semolina adds a bit of crunch to the top.

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Sharp blade, I'm going to slice three long slices at a slight angle.

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You can see it's beginning to open up now.

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They're perfect and ready to go in the oven.

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'The next stage is crucial.'

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Add a jug of water to a hot roasting tin at the bottom of the oven.

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This creates steam.

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The steam bath begins to coat the top of the bread

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in a beautiful film which will give you that glisten, that crisp

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that you want on top of a baguette.

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Bake for 30 minutes at 220 degrees,

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and a further ten minutes at 200.

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They're crispy. Got proper colour.

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'Leave these to cool on a wire, so that the steam can escape

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'and the crust doesn't go soggy.'

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Most of the baguettes in this country are the colour of a cloud.

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Too white. You need to have that crust on it.

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You need to have that deep colour

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and that's what gives you the flavour.

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An iconic French loaf goes well with an iconic French cheese -

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Camembert.

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It's been baked in the box for at least 20 minutes.

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Goes lovely and soft.

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Dip into the Camembert...

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I'm in France already.

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Viva la France, indeed.

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So why not go the whole hog and make it into a garlic baguette?

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The worst thing that British people do to a baguette

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is saw through it with a knife, put garlic butter in it,

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wrap it in a wrap and then stick it in the oven.

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That's not how you do garlic bread. This is the best way.

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I've got a dough here which is exactly the same one

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as I made for the baguette.

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'Caramelise some garlic, by roasting it with some sugar, salt and oil.'

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Just crush the garlic.

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Force it into the dough.

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All those juices will spread out through the whole dough.

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'Shape it - just like you did the standard baguettes.'

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Flatten it down and then roll it up.

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'This makes the best garlic bread you'll ever taste.

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'I promise you, you will never go back.

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'Topped off with some melted buffalo mozzarella...

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'Pretty special, I'd say!'

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'You can find this and other recipes at the BBC food website.

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But France is not the only country with iconic loaves -

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Germany has a rich tradition in baking,

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with over 300 varieties of bread.

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I've come to Hansel and Pretzel, to see the owner Petra

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and her head baker, Andy, who have - like the famous pretzel -

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moved here from Germany.

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-Hello.

-Nice to meet you.

-Nice to meet you.

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Can you tell me a little bit about the history of pretzel?

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It's typical, especially for the southern part of Germany -

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so, Swabia or Bavaria.

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It dates back to the Middle Ages

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and it's said that it resembles the arms of a praying person.

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So people used to pray like this,

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with their arms crossed in front of the body.

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And that's, actually, just like a pretzel.

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The dough is made, portioned up and ready to use.

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'I've never made a pretzel, so I've got my learner plates on.'

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'Though I say it myself, I'm a dab hand at plating loaves,

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so thought nothing could phase me...until now.'

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It's very long.

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Yeah.

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'A simple looking knot is not so simple, after all!'

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It's that movement, isn't it?

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OK. There's definitely a challenge going on here.

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See, I would actually take it back round that way.

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You're flipping it back round to there, aren't you?

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That's the bit where I got lost.

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You lifted it up, yeah... Twist it?

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Yeah. There, you see!

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That's too fast!

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That's better!

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OK, I'll have a look at that one.

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That whole twist thing I reckon comes with about 30 years' practise.

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I get the same affect, at the end!

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Oh, the invention of a new pretzel!

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I think my way works.

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PETRA LAUGHS

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There you go.

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I doubt that this has a future!

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What I didn't expect, is that the pretzels are frozen

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and then dipped in lye.

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A sodium solution often used in soap making.

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And that, basically, gives the nice dark brown colour.

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But, of course, you shouldn't try that at home.

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The dough is slashed, to produce the iconic bloom when baked.

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You can smell them, can't you?

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They're delicious.

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How would you butter something like that?

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You'd actually cut it like this

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and then you just butter this part...and that's about it.

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For me, they're magic.

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I'm going to try and make some of these at home, actually.

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-You're welcome.

-You're welcome.

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-Morning!

-Morning, mate, you all right?

-Bit chilly, innit?

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'The German pretzel is thought

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'to date from as early as the seventh century,

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'but it's a more modern Italian bread I want to show you next.'

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The ciabatta - in Italian, it actually means "slipper" -

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was invented recently by an Italian racing driver.

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And it was designed to rival the baguette,

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as a carrier for the perfect sandwich.

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And that's my kind of sandwich.

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I'll show you how to make the perfect ciabatta,

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which is a little more challenging than the baguette.

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The ciabatta is made using a sponge - or a biga, in Italian -

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not a cake sponge, but a starter dough,

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which provides the foundation for a stronger, airy structure

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and a more distinct flavour.

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A sponge is a very traditional way of doing it.

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And to make a sponge, you use half the flour that you use in a recipe.

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'Add half the yeast and oil to the flour.

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'You'll use the other half of these ingredients later.'

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By leaving it for a long period of time to ferment -

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grow and then ferment - it gives the bread an inherent flavour.

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It's a very traditional way of doing it, especially a ciabatta,

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because there's so much liquid in there.

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'Add some cold water.

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'Cold water means it takes longer to prove,

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'and the longer the prove,

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'the longer the yeast has to develop flavour.'

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Add a little bit of oil to your table,

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and then just briefly knead it,

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just to bring it together a little bit more.

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Once I've done this, which takes just a couple of minutes,

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this can be placed back in the bowl and left to rise.

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The best place to leave it

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is probably in the kitchen, just covered up.

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But the minimum amount of time you need to prove it is about -

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depends how hot your kitchen is - but between three and six hours.

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I'm happy to put the dough in like that.

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Leave it alone and let nature do some work, for a change.

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'You know your sponge starter is ready

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'when you can see crease marks in the dough.

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'These are formed by the yeast rising as much as it can,

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'until it exhausts the nutrients and collapses down on itself,

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'which is called "the drop".'

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So this gelatinous mess is now quite stringy.

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Looks like a pair of Y-fronts, to be honest.

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That goes into a mixer.

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'Measure the remaining flour, yeast and olive oil into the mixer

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with the sponge starter.

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'Then dissolve the salt in water,

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'which means it disperses through the dough immediately.'

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I'm going to put half of my water in...

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and begin to develop the dough.

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'Like the French baguette, this Italian ciabatta is a very wet dough

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'which needs mixing for a long time to absorb the liquid.'

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Now, this dough is beginning to develop.

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Now, if you look at the mix, it looks quite mottled.

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It looks like... cellulite, for want of a better word.

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What you're doing is building up the gluten in this.

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Now if I stretch that...

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It's beginning to stretch, but it's breaking too readily.

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Now that needs to be mixed for a bit longer,

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but the dough has formed and once the dough has formed,

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you begin to drip feed the rest of the water.

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Add the water very gradually, so as not to flood the dough.

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By adding the water, it loosens the gluten strand,

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but doesn't break it.

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So you're still trying to build up that resistance, without...

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Basically, without trying to break down

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the structure of the dough itself.

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What you're listening for,

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when you've got all the water in there,

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-is not a smooth sound like that.

-SOFT MOTOR-HUM

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You can't hear anything.

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-It's that...

-HE CLAPS HIS HANDS

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It's that slapping of the dough on the side.

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What it's doing is, it's trying to pull together into one ball.

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If it's not pulling together into one ball

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it means its gluten strands aren't strong enough to pull it together

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into one big ball.

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Have a quick look at that.

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That's what I'm checking for.

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You can stretch it now. You couldn't before.

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Nice, soft, elastic dough.

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'Oil a square container.

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'Using a square means this delicate dough needs less handling

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'to shape it,

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'keeping more of the air inside.'

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The easiest way to bring it out, is to put some oil on your hands

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and it will come out in one piece.

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A little bit of a test. Shake, shake, shake, shake, shake.

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Massive pair of Y-fronts now!

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They're going to be my Y-fronts in about 20 years.

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That'll go straight in.

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Leave it alone.

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After all that mixing,

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you can see how much the dough has risen.

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It's nearly up to the top - about three-quarters of the way up.

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It's like a pillow.

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'Sprinkle your work top with a mixture of semolina and flour.'

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The reason why we heavily flour with semolina,

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is to absorb the extra bit of liquid.

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It's quite a liquid jelly dough.

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'Because of this, it can spread, rather than rise.

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'So the semolina provides resistance to help the dough head up

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'and not out.'

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Try and be gentle with it.

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Try and get as much air in it as you possibly can.

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Got a bit of a wobble to it, which is good.

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'Cut the dough in half-length ways to form two rectangles,

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'trying to handle it as little as possible.

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'To avoid wet dough spreading outwards,

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'roll each half up on its side.'

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It's like going against the grain with wood.

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It gives it more resistance, therefore, gives it more height.

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'You have to be quick to keep the shape.

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'Place them on a floured baking tray

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'and leave to rest for at least half an hour...

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'..before baking at two 220 degrees.

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'Your loaves are baked when they are golden brown and hollow-sounding.

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'Gorgeous fresh ciabatta -

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perfect when dipped in some virgin olive oil.'

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'It will keep for three to five days,

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'but there's always ways of using it up, if it goes a little stale -

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like a colourful panzanella salad,

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'a dish that is thought to date from the sixteenth century.'

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Panzanella salad - a beautiful, colourful Tuscan salad

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which will use up any crusty bread.

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'Roast and skin some peppers and cut them into strips.'

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It's a way of using up any leftover bread -

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the crustier the better, because they soak up more of the juices.

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'Blanch and skin the tomatoes and push the pulp through a sieve.

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'Add the chopped flesh to the peppers,

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'and then some capers and some green pitted olives.'

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So the whole thing together

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is colourful, bright and full of flavour.

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'To make the vinaigrette,

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mix red wine vinegar with the sieved tomato juice

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'and then a glug of olive oil.'

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There's a lot of liquid, because the bread will soak everything up.

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So the whole thing - especially with stale bread - is a sponge.

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'Season.'

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A bit of pepper in there.

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'Add some garlic...and stir.'

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All we do is rip off chunks of the bread

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and drop it straight into the dressing.

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Soak for an hour and that will get blended in

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with all the peppers and olives and capers.

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A little bit of basil. Job done.

0:18:320:18:34

'Perfect panzanella!'

0:18:340:18:36

'The bread adds texture and flavour to this colourful salad,

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proving that even old bread can create a fabulous meal!'

0:18:390:18:43

From using up the stale bread to bread that's deliberately crunchy,

0:18:460:18:51

this biscotti might look like a biscuit,

0:18:510:18:53

but it's actually a sliced-up loaf and it's easy to make.

0:18:530:18:56

These sweet and tasty treats date back to the 13th century.

0:18:560:19:00

A biscotti, which basically means twice-baked.

0:19:000:19:03

That's why they're so hard and crunchy.

0:19:030:19:05

I'm going to show you how to make three flavours

0:19:050:19:08

with a beautiful hot mocha dipping sauce.

0:19:080:19:11

'My three biscotti are chocolate, almond and orange,

0:19:110:19:15

'pistachio and cranberry,

0:19:150:19:16

'and hazelnut and date.'

0:19:160:19:17

Biscotti - a classic, classic Italian bake.

0:19:190:19:22

You need to bake this thing twice, to get that crunch.

0:19:220:19:26

This gives you a very crispy mixture, indeed.

0:19:260:19:30

Add six eggs to the plain flour and sugar.

0:19:300:19:32

Into this, I'm going to add a teaspoon of baking powder.

0:19:320:19:35

This will be your rising agent.

0:19:350:19:38

I'm just going to start getting my hands in there now.

0:19:380:19:41

A baker can't resist getting his hands into mixes,

0:19:410:19:43

because then you really remember what it should feel like.

0:19:430:19:46

I'm feeling for something that is going to bind together.

0:19:460:19:49

Not too liquid.

0:19:490:19:50

If it's very liquid, you have to mix it for a long time,

0:19:500:19:53

to try and build up some stability in the mix.

0:19:530:19:55

Don't worry about your hands getting dirty. It's part of the trade.

0:19:550:20:00

And the volume of sugar in this will make it quite sticky.

0:20:000:20:03

Although this is a fatless mix, there is a lot of sugar in there,

0:20:030:20:06

so don't kid yourself into thinking you'll get slim by eating it.

0:20:060:20:09

I'm splitting my dough into three, for three flavours.

0:20:090:20:12

'For the pistachio biscotti, add the zest of a lemon...'

0:20:140:20:17

and little bit of bite from the lemon really adds to this flavour

0:20:170:20:20

and I think it adds a little bit of authenticity of Italy.

0:20:200:20:24

'..and some roughly-chopped pistachios and dried cranberries,

0:20:240:20:27

'then mix together.

0:20:270:20:28

'For the hazelnut and date biscotti,

0:20:310:20:33

'again, start with lemon zest, then add chopped hazelnuts

0:20:330:20:36

'and dates to the dough mix.'

0:20:360:20:38

The final one...is a bit special.

0:20:400:20:43

'For the chocolate nut and orange biscotti, add the chopped almonds,

0:20:430:20:46

'some extra flour to the dough and some melted chocolate.'

0:20:460:20:50

The general law is, once you've got a good base mix -

0:20:500:20:52

bread, cake or anything -

0:20:520:20:54

if you add a liquid to it, you must counter it with something dry.

0:20:540:20:58

So I've added flour to counteract the liquid of the chocolate

0:20:580:21:01

going in there, as well.

0:21:010:21:02

'Chop up some almonds.'

0:21:020:21:04

The addition of the almonds to this really adds to the texture,

0:21:040:21:08

but also to the flavour.

0:21:080:21:11

That blended with the chocolate - gorgeous!

0:21:110:21:13

'Add a dash of vanilla essence, the zest of an orange

0:21:160:21:19

'and some chopped-up chocolate.'

0:21:190:21:21

And that really adds to a biscotti.

0:21:210:21:23

You'll get an overall flavour, but then you're going to hit this chunk.

0:21:230:21:28

'Shape the three biscotti mixtures, ready for their first bake.'

0:21:280:21:32

Place that straight onto a baking tray.

0:21:320:21:37

'Bake for the first time at 160 degrees for about 35 minutes.

0:21:380:21:43

'And whilst they're in the oven, you can make your dipping sauce.'

0:21:430:21:46

I'm making, basically a chocolate sauce, to go with the biscotti.

0:21:470:21:51

I'm adding...some cream...

0:21:510:21:55

some coffee...

0:21:550:21:58

a good squirt of...honey.

0:21:580:22:01

Once that's warmed, I'll begin to add my chocolate.

0:22:020:22:05

But be careful, because you want to melt the chocolate,

0:22:050:22:08

you don't want to burn it.

0:22:080:22:09

Then your marshmallow finally goes in and it's ready.

0:22:100:22:13

'Once baked for the first time, cut into slices and bake again -

0:22:200:22:24

'turning half way through.'

0:22:240:22:25

'Get creative with your flavours.

0:22:300:22:32

'These are my three versions of biscotti,

0:22:320:22:34

'ideally served with a hot mocha dipping sauce.'

0:22:340:22:38

I think it's more than moreish. I think it's a must.

0:22:380:22:41

I've shown you breads that become lunches and deserts

0:22:460:22:49

but now a classic, that's right at the heart of dinner.

0:22:490:22:52

Pizza is one of the most popular fast foods in this country.

0:22:540:22:58

I certainly love it and it tastes fantastic fresh from your own oven.

0:22:580:23:02

It's also dead easy.

0:23:020:23:03

To make the pizza, you need flour, salt, yeast - basic ingredients.

0:23:050:23:09

'Measure out strong white bread flour, yeast and salt,

0:23:090:23:13

'then add olive oil and water.'

0:23:130:23:15

It's one of the most basic of mixes to make.

0:23:150:23:19

You want to make sure that you have quite a wet dough.

0:23:190:23:23

That's perfect... Perfect.

0:23:230:23:25

I make these with my son. The making side of it is part of the fun.

0:23:250:23:29

If you make your own dough, that encourages kids

0:23:290:23:33

to understand what goes in the food, as well as what goes on the food.

0:23:330:23:38

You can just give them a lump of dough

0:23:380:23:40

and let them play with it, like plasticine

0:23:400:23:41

and they're kneading the bread - building up the gluten,

0:23:410:23:44

just by playing with it -

0:23:440:23:45

stretching it and putting it back together again.

0:23:450:23:49

The dough is becoming elastic, it's beginning to stretch.

0:23:490:23:53

Now that...is smooth,

0:23:530:23:56

it's soft,

0:23:560:23:58

it's squidgy...and it stretches.

0:23:580:24:01

Now that needs to rest in a bowl for at least an hour or two.

0:24:010:24:05

It'll at least treble, even quadruple, in size.

0:24:050:24:08

Pop it in a bowl and cover it up.

0:24:080:24:10

Here we have our beautifully risen, light, cloud of a dough.

0:24:120:24:18

There she goes - sinking back down to its original size.

0:24:210:24:25

Beautiful smell.

0:24:250:24:27

Divide it up into as many balls as you want, really.

0:24:280:24:31

Shape them into balls.

0:24:310:24:33

Now these have been resting for a couple of hours.

0:24:330:24:35

You could shape them again and forget about them

0:24:350:24:37

for another three hours, if you want to.

0:24:370:24:39

If you've got a party - that's the way forward.

0:24:390:24:41

They just slow prove and that's what gives it the flavour.

0:24:410:24:45

'Flatten the dough balls into a size and shape you want

0:24:450:24:48

for your pizza bases -

0:24:480:24:50

'first with your fingers, then with a rolling pin.'

0:24:500:24:53

Keep on moving it, so it doesn't stick to the top.

0:24:530:24:57

It's still quite thick.

0:24:570:24:59

And it's all the same thickness throughout all of the base itself.

0:24:590:25:03

What you actually want is for it to be quite thin in the middle

0:25:030:25:07

and a bit thicker round the outside.

0:25:070:25:10

So you grab your pizza, throw it up.

0:25:100:25:13

If you twist your fingers up, catch it.

0:25:130:25:16

Never catch it on your fingers. They'll go straight through.

0:25:160:25:19

Catch it on your knuckle. There you go.

0:25:190:25:25

Thin in the middle... thick on the outside.

0:25:260:25:30

There are your pizza bases. Quite straightforward.

0:25:300:25:33

'And before baking, dust with a semolina and flour mix.'

0:25:330:25:37

Semolina's gritty, so when you place that base on there, it skids easy.

0:25:370:25:42

It lifts it slightly off the base.

0:25:420:25:44

'This is the perfect opportunity

0:25:440:25:46

'to be experimental with your ingredients.'

0:25:460:25:48

Gorgonzola - just rip off pieces.

0:25:500:25:52

Treat this almost like your tomato puree base.

0:25:520:25:56

I'm using caramelised onions and grated pecorino cheese.

0:25:560:25:59

Grate them quite big.

0:26:010:26:03

'And I'm adding quartered figs...

0:26:030:26:07

'..and then topping with Parma ham.

0:26:070:26:09

It acts like a cage, just to protect all the ingredients inside.

0:26:090:26:13

Now you get your pizza peel.

0:26:130:26:14

You drive it underneath the pizza base. Now that's moving.

0:26:160:26:20

'Bake on a bake-stone at 250 degrees for about ten minutes

0:26:200:26:24

'until bubbling and golden.'

0:26:240:26:27

Look at this!

0:26:270:26:28

'Perfect pizza, without any need for that oh-so-familiar tomato base.'

0:26:290:26:34

'I've been invited to an office party

0:26:380:26:40

'where I'm road-testing my pizza recipe

0:26:400:26:43

'with people who have never made it before...'

0:26:430:26:46

Good job I painted my nails, eh, guys?

0:26:460:26:49

'..to prove that it's not only fun, but also easy.'

0:26:490:26:53

Is there a technique to this?

0:26:530:26:54

Try and get it as thin as possible.

0:26:540:26:56

It doesn't really matter, just put a little pressure on it. That's it.

0:26:560:26:59

Oh, no, it's horrible now you're standing there.

0:26:590:27:02

Just open it up slightly with your fingers.

0:27:020:27:04

This is just to make it thinner?

0:27:040:27:06

It's making the inside thinner...

0:27:060:27:08

The centrifugal force throws it all outside.

0:27:080:27:11

That's it. Not bad.

0:27:140:27:15

That's pretty good.

0:27:190:27:21

'The higher you get it, the thinner your base will be,

0:27:210:27:24

'but you've got to be courageous.'

0:27:240:27:26

'And once it's thin enough, you can get creative with your topping.

0:27:290:27:33

It's all about getting your oven piping-hot,

0:27:330:27:35

'and your dough as thin as possible.'

0:27:350:27:38

Very cheesy! I'm sure it'll be delicious!

0:27:380:27:41

'Just follow these simple steps for perfect results

0:27:410:27:44

'when you make them for yourself at home.'

0:27:440:27:47

This time, I've shown you how to make

0:27:510:27:53

some of the most famous breads in Europe.

0:27:530:27:56

'If you follow my simple steps,

0:27:580:28:00

'you can make bread for any occasion, from France, Germany...'

0:28:000:28:04

There's definitely a challenge going on here!

0:28:040:28:07

'..and all over Italy.'

0:28:080:28:10

Sourdough - many bakers fear it -

0:28:110:28:14

but, next time, I'll show you how to master the daddy of the bread world.

0:28:140:28:18

Think of that as your new pet.

0:28:180:28:21

'Once you know how to make the starter dough

0:28:210:28:23

'you can begin showing off, with a white chocolate and raspberry loaf'

0:28:230:28:27

Fantastic!

0:28:270:28:28

'An olive-filled fougasse...'

0:28:280:28:31

It's an olive fest!

0:28:310:28:32

'..and my rich berry summer pudding.'

0:28:320:28:34

If there is one recipe you need to make before you die, it's that one.

0:28:340:28:40

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