Episode 2 Paul Hollywood's Pies & Puds

I've got a mix of the old and new for you today.

I'm playing with the classics, Scottish salmon and afternoon tea,

and I'll be trying my hand at the new craze

of putting cakes on a stick.

Hello, and welcome to Pies And Puds.

Sweet or savoury, there'll be something for everyone,

as I show YOU how to make simple recipes that are perfect to share.

Here's what's on the menu today.

'I take a trip back in time,

'revisiting London's Dorchester Hotel,

'where I used to be the head baker.'

If you want to work in places like this, passion.

Passion, that's all you need.

'I create my own version of afternoon tea, finger-shaped scones

'and a strawberry compote

'with the help of food historian, Dr Annie Gray.'

-No cream?

-Cream?!

You put cream ON it, not in it.

'From London to Scotland, I get to grips

'with a true Scottish delicacy - salmon.

'It's my Hollywood's Temptation -

'a creamy filo pastry filled with hot-smoked salmon.'

You can imagine when you cut into this what it's going to be like.

That's gorgeous.

'And the latest cake sensation fills my kitchen -

'bite-sized bakes on a stick.

'Cake pop queen Clare O'Connell is here to show ME how it's done.'

-They look good. A lot of people can't roll, so you'd get the job.

-I'm very good at that.

'I'll be baking a mouthwatering toffee and apple cake

'covered with delicious decorations.'

So as it cooks, the apples burst

and the flavour just goes all the way through the cake.

Look at that, beautiful.

'You too can try all my recipes in today's show.

'Details are on the BBC website.'

Many years ago I was the head baker at the Dorchester in London,

where I had to bake all the pastries and breads for the breakfast

and their amazing afternoon teas.

But in all my years there I never sat on the other side

of the serving hatch...until now.

I've worked at some beautiful hotels during my career

and none more so than the Dorchester.

I haven't been back here for over 20 years,

where my role included baking all the bread, doing all the pastry,

but also, more importantly, afternoon tea.

I just can't wait to go in there again. 20 years!

The Dorchester is a five-star hotel on London's Park Lane.

It's one of the world's most prestigious and exclusive hotels.

But when I worked here 20 years ago, I wasn't working upstairs,

but downstairs.

This is the heart of the hotel - the kitchen.

'Once I'm inside, the memories come flooding back.'

The feeling of it hasn't changed. It's still here.

This was a home from home for me for quite a while.

I was homesick at the beginning -

I remember when I first worked here -

I came down from the north

and it was the first time I'd been in London.

I got used to it in the end. But, yeah, I had a good time here.

I miss it.

If you look in the kitchens they've got different hats on -

flat hats mean you are a chef de partie.

If you got a domed hat it means you're sous chef.

It means you're one of the executives, really powerful.

So the bigger the hat, the more powerful you are.

'I'm on a search to find the current executive chef, Henry Brosi,

'because he is the one who's going to give me the OK

'to have a sneaky look around the kitchen.'

-Hello, Chef.

-Oh!

-You've come back to the Dorchester's kitchens.

-Nice to meet you.

-Nice to meet you too.

-Fantastic. It's just so weird being back.

-It has a little bit changed.

-Yeah!

That area is still the same as when you were here, 1991?

-I was there just when it reopened.

-That was '91.

'A new addition since my time here is the Chef's Table, somewhere diners

'can book if they really want a close-up view of the chefs at work.

'At a price, of course.'

Wow! Wow! I like that.

I like that a lot. That's theatre right there.

'Very impressive, but it's more familiar territory I'm keen to see.'

This, in the morning, when I used to come in...

three, two in the morning, I used to come into work,

and this was the main corridor to the pastry area.

This was the chocolate room. Is this still the chocolate room? It is!

It's still the chocolate room!

This in here is like a chilled room and I used to go playing in here sometimes in the afternoon.

We used to do little curls, and little chocolate things to go on top of the afternoon tea.

It's really cold in there.

Wow, it's still here. That's... It's weird!

In the morning when I used to come in,

the first job was to lay out all the pastries.

So we'd produce all the croissants, pain au chocolate...

And these... I think they are the same ovens as well.

I burned myself on that guy, more than once!

No, I think the scars have worn away now.

Hello.

I remember when I took this job on I was so excited, extremely nervous.

It was a big responsibility. This was the Dorchester Hotel.

You were becoming part of a team and part of a hotel

that had been around for a long time and had stood for excellence.

Gave you a buzz. Gave you a little edgy bit.

You've got to have that passion. If you want to work in places like this, passion.

Passion, that's all you need.

'I'm immensely proud of the part I played in creating

'the legendary afternoon tea here at the Dorchester.

'But there's one regret I still have.'

I never had a chance to actually eat one, but it's now my turn to

go upstairs and experience this beautiful afternoon treat.

'I've always been fascinated how my work down in the kitchens

'fitted into the history of afternoon tea.

'So I've invited my friend and food historian Dr Annie Gray along.

'She tells me that I've been part of a long tradition of eating food with tea.'

Tea comes into the country in about 1640

and you have snacks with it straightaway.

There are pictures from the early 18th century of people with

bread and butter. So tea with something to eat with it is quite a long-standing phenomenon.

Its heyday's really the late 19th century,

early Edwardian period, and that's when you think of people in terribly

elegant dresses, and that's when you get this explosion of

small cakes and biscuits and elegance, really.

'Today, it's tea for two, as we're

'served with the Dorchester's current selection of afternoon tea.'

Lovely, thank you.

'On the menu is a tray of delicate finger sandwiches,

'the cakes I saw being made downstairs

'and one of my favourites - scones with cream and jam.'

-Plain and raisin.

-Lovely.

Wow!

'The style of cakes served with afternoon tea has changed

'a bit over the years.

'Annie has arranged for us to see some examples.

'First, classics from the 1970s.'

What's changed recently

is we've moved away from sort of classic British

into almost classic French style of patisserie

because we class that as more delicate, more finesse.

But that's our background.

That's our heritage, the big, bulky, full of flavour cakes.

Strawberry sandwiches.

'Next, we're served cakes from the Edwardian era.'

-Raspberry tart.

-Wow!

Shortbread.

'These are slices of baking history on a plate.'

-It's a Victoria sandwich.

-Yeah.

-With cream and strawberries.

Cream and real strawberries, rather than jam. But they're cut into very delicate pieces

and they're presented like that. The advantage, of course, is that what doesn't get eaten can be stored

and brought out for afternoon tea the next day and nobody will realise that you've already served them.

-Looks very...Empire, doesn't it?

-Pudding moulds were the same at this era.

They tend to be quite Gothic-looking

and cake design echoes the prevailing fashion.

You have your deconstructed Victoria sandwich, you have a gateaux,

technically, which could be cut into to serve,

whatever size you want, and then you have your biscuit

with your little bit of finesse, the cream and everything on the top.

I mean, they knew how to really serve tea in the Edwardian times.

And it's tea orientated cos of course, you can dunk a shortbread!

You can't dunk a raspberry tart.

'Well, I've loved being back at the Dorchester

'and I've enjoyed those Edwardian cakes with their dunkability.

'It's inspired my next recipe, which is my tribute to afternoon tea.'

Well, I'm sorry my kitchen is not quite the Dorchester Hotel,

but I'm hoping to recreate their afternoon tea and Dr Annie Gray is here to help me.

-Hello, Annie.

-Hello again.

What I'm going to do is actually deconstruct the afternoon tea.

'And I've taken one of my favourite afternoon treats,

'scones with cream and jam.

'But I'm presenting them in a totally different way,

'a nod to the Edwardian Victoria sandwich,

'which was served to us in the Dorchester in slices.'

So what we're going to do, I'm going to show you how to make a scone, a proper scone.

First of all, I've got some strong white flour.

Strong white flour, you may think is unusual. It's not.

Now, everybody else has got it wrong. I've got it right.

You don't have to believe me,

you just have to try it yourselves and let me know.

So you're kind of working on converting me towards scones, given

that I don't normally like them very much and don't really see the point.

-Of a scone?

-Yeah.

HE SIGHS

It's the taste of the baking powder. I'm used to making historic cakes which are risen by eggs alone,

-where you don't add raising agents.

-OK.

So for me, in a scone, cos I'm not used to baking powder in anything,

all I taste, normally, is the baking powder

and you can't toast them because they're short and...

I'm just not entirely convinced that I see the point of a scone.

I'll go through the ingredients, right?

I'm using strong white flour, into which I'm going to add my baking powder.

-ALL my baking powder!

-Oh, so much!

And then, I'm going to add my caster sugar, butter,

and then you get stuck in there and just rub the butter into the flour.

-The next thing I'm going to add is my two eggs, straight in.

-No cream?

-Cream?!

-Yeah, yeah.

All these historic recipes, cream scones, it's the thing you do.

You put cream ON it, not in it!

'But what does go in is a full-fat milk to create a soft dough.

'Bring together then gently fold.'

Normally, when you're making a scone, you actually cut them out.

But what I'm going to do is roll it into a rough rectangle.

This is a docker. This makes holes in the pastry.

So what you do is gently run the docker all over the top

of the pastry and this again tries to restrict the growth of the scone.

So as it grows, it grows more even.

'Then, brush with eggwash and score with a sharp knife.'

-It's starting to look like shortbread now.

-Yeah, that's the idea.

It's actually to use fingers of scones,

rather than sort of traditional round scones.

'Put the scone into a preheated oven at 220 degrees for 15 minutes.

'Next. I'm making a compote, rather than a jam, to go with my scones.'

What I've got in the pan at the moment is sugar

and strawberries, and what I've done to that is bring it up to the simmer, just to melt the sugar.

Then, I've turned the heat up and at the moment, it's beginning to boil.

So I'm going to add

the butter to that now and leave the butter to melt in there.

Why are you adding butter?

Again, it helps, it aids with the flavour and emulsifies it as well.

'Annie may not like my baking powder but I'm sure she will like my next ingredient.'

I knew you were coming and I thought,

"What am I going to give Dr Annie Gray

"for afternoon tea to make it special?"

I thought, "There's only one thing, and it's champagne."

So I've got my butter in there. I'm going to add about a good glug.

Give it a little bit of a stir.

That needs to cool before it goes into

a sterilised pot like this, which is what I've got here.

Take a quick look in there. It's more like a liquid.

It's a compote rather than a jam.

'My scones are ready to be cut into fingers

'and my compote spooned into cups, not forgetting the clotted cream.'

You've got something that's quintessentially...

a very...

British afternoon tea.

A little bit of icing sugar around the outside.

So what you've got, you pick up your scone, dip it in the compote,

dip it in the clotted cream and eat it.

'My cream tea - inspired by Edwardians, made by me,

'and I'll be serving it up to my guests later on.'

My kitchen right now smells divine and that's because of this.

Hot-smoked salmon, which I'm using in my next recipe.

And where is the place to find the best smoked salmon around?

Scotland, of course.

Now, I've always assumed that wild salmon is better than farmed salmon,

but these days, that's not necessarily true.

One thing's for sure though, as wild salmon numbers dwindle,

we need to find a more sustainable source of this fish.

Here on the banks of the River Tay in Dunkeld in Perthshire

is Springwells, an artisan smokehouse

with a reputation for smoking wild salmon caught by local fishermen.

Here we are. Here's your salmon, that's been sliced into packs.

There we are.

Absolutely beautiful.

The number of Tay salmon fishermen who bring their fish for smoking is getting less each year.

Of course, these days, far more fish are put back, quite rightly, to preserve stocks.

As catch and release policies came in, as the netting stations

have been brought out to reduce the pressure on wild salmon stocks,

we have gradually built up the amount of farmed salmon we produce.

'Rob now champions farmed salmon.'

So here is a delivery of high quality farmed fish.

This is a naturally and ethically-reared fish.

There has been no pigment or dye applied to the fish,

so we know it is really good quality.

These days the company has a reputation

for smoking the best farmed salmon in town.

The hot-smoked salmon was part of the starter

used at the Queen's Diamond Jubilee lunch at Scone Palace.

The caterers prepared hot-smoked salmon

with our cold-smoked salmon with a beetroot compote.

If farmed salmon is good enough for Her Majesty,

it's good enough for me.

'It's the job of master smoker Ronnie to transform the salmon

'into gorgeous hot-smoked salmon,

'the kind I'm looking for in my pie.'

'First, the salmon is soaked for four hours in brine -

'that's salted water to you and me.'

'Placed on wire racks

'and goes into an oven, and smoked over whisky oak barrel chips for 20 hours,

'before being roasted at nearly 100 degrees.'

'Ronnie's fish is then flaky, moist and rich in favour,

'but does Ronnie think farmed will be better in my pie than wild salmon?'

People tend to prefer the farmed, which is moister,

and it is just an all-round nicer product.

'The hot-smoked salmon looks amazing and I can't wait to taste it.

'And Rob is bringing me some for my next dish.'

And this is it. This is the salmon that has come all the way down from Scotland.

-And Rob, thank you very much.

-Nice to see you. Good to be here.

Lovely to meet you.

This looks a great piece of salmon. Smells lovely.

I've got to try this. Let me just draw a knife in there.

-And this is farmed, isn't it?

-It is a farmed fish, yes.

That is very special.

-That really has got some depth of flavour, hasn't it?

-It has.

I've got a dish I'm going to use this in.

Essentially, I'm going to call it a Hollywood Temptation.

'This is a warming filo pastry pie,

'filled with layers of creamy hot-smoked salmon,

'sweet onions and potato.'

To start with, over here, I've basically blanched

the slices of potatoes in milk for about five minutes,

just to soften them.

They've still got a little bit of bite to them,

but I'm going to finish them off

with the salmon in a minute, inside an en croute.

I'm actually going to use filo pastry.

'You can make filo at home,

'but, to be honest, it's incredibly tricky.

'A good-quality shop-bought one will do the job.'

I'm just going to brush some melted butter all over the top.

Now, this is going to be

the first layer going inside... the tin.

Now, I'll show you - quite fiddly.

Lift up a sheet of the pastry, drop it into the middle,

and then take it into the sides as much as you can

and let it drop down the outside.

Don't worry, it's not going to cover all of it,

which is why we've got many sheets.

'Then gradually build up the layers of filo pastry

'into the buttered tin.'

'Now I'm layering my sliced potatoes,

'which I cooked in milk and drained.'

The thing I'm going to do next, actually, is add onions.

Now, over here, I've got some onions which have cooked out,

just for about five, ten minutes,

release that little bit of sugar and caramel in there.

Now that goes on top of the potatoes

and that creates a little bit of a bed for the next layer.

Now the next layer is your salmon.

Now, what I'm going to do here, I'm not going to be all cheffy about it.

I'm literally just going to rip stuff off and lay it on.

Look at the colour of it!

That's gorgeous. The smell is...

It's difficult to describe,

the salmon with that heady mixture of the butter as well.

And the onions. And then these gratin potatoes going on the top.

'Then keep layering with onions and salmon.'

The idea is you want to get those big chunks, you know,

don't break it up too much.

I like to keep quite bulky pieces of fish in there.

I would agree with that, because I think that chunkiness...

You keep hat flavour really, really well like that.

Yeah, I think if you shred it down too much,

you're going to lose what this pie is all about.

What's your favourite way of eating salmon?

Well, I would tend to eat hot-smoked salmon a lot,

I think it's a great and flexible dish to eat,

I think you can have it on a barbecue,

or you can just eat it as it is, it's just great to eat on its own.

Lovely with a bit of mayonnaise.

And for a meal with small buttered new potatoes,

bit of peppery salad, bit of creme fraiche, with a touch of horseradish.

-Goes beautifully.

-You've forgotten one thing.

-What's this?

-Hollywood sensation.

-Well, this could be the new thing!

-It WILL be the new thing!

-It WILL be the new thing!

OK. So you've got a good layer,

two double layers all the way up.

'Then into the milk the potatoes were cooked in,

'add cream and season.

'Then pour into the pie, finishing with a final layer of potatoes.'

Now, this is going to be ready to flip over,

so you literally just grab the filo pastry

and fold it all over the top, trying to keep it all...

It's like a parcel, it's like wrapping a parcel.

Bit of pressure in there.

Finally, I've got a little bit of butter here,

drizzle that over the top.

This, again, will bind and coat all the filo pastry on the top

and stick it all together.

And there you have it.

It's ready to go in the oven at 200 degrees,

30-35 minutes,

to be beautiful and golden-brown.

I've got one here that's just... been done. Now, look at that.

There it is. It's beautiful, it's golden-brown.

The Hollywood Temptation.

'This gorgeously rich pie crammed full of hot-smoked salmon can be

'served hot or cold, and we'll be tasting it at the end of the show.'

Rob, sorry, mate, you're going to have to wait

-a bit longer before you get a chance to tuck in.

-I'm looking forward to it, it looks great.

You might think you know me for the classics - the timeless breads

and the traditional British cakes.

But today I'm embracing the latest phenomenon, that is cake pops.

'These are cakes on sticks and these miniature masterpieces

'could be something for the kids, perhaps,

'or maybe for the big kid inside you.

'And they are surprisingly easy to make.

'Well, so the maker of these cake pops, Clare O'Connell, tells me.'

These look mad. They look very good. I've never seen...

I've seen cake pops before, but not in such detail as this.

-They are amazing!

-Yeah, we can make basically anything into a cake pop.

The whole idea of cake pops now is fun. The kids are getting into it.

-Adults are seriously into this as well.

-Yeah.

How do you go about making the cake pop itself, the actual...?

The cake is made from a normal chocolate cake you let cool,

and then you crumble it up and add icing,

and then you shape them and then we let them harden in the fridge.

'Clare is going to show me

'how to make one of her Russian doll designs.'

'First, the cake mixture has to be shaped into balls.'

-You want to split it one third into two thirds.

-OK.

And then you just want to roll a nice ball.

This is basically a chocolate cake

and it's also got buttercream in there, icing...

-Yeah, we use cream cheese icing, actually.

-Cream cheese icing? OK.

-That makes it smooth as well, doesn't it?

-Yeah. They look good.

A lot of people can't roll balls, so you'd get the job.

I'm very good at that. So, what's the next stage from this?

'To coat the cake, Clare uses coloured melted candy.'

So, basically, you want to take the purple,

you dip the stick in the candy melts first and get the body.

-And just glue it to the base.

-Yeah, exactly.

Go all the way through, leave about that much space,

and then dip again and then put it into the head like that.

Keep shaking. I kind of twist it a little bit as well.

And then tap it and shake it when it's upright as well,

so you don't have a little peak.

And then we put it in some polystyrene to harden.

They are very neat, though, aren't they? They are very precise.

-Know what I mean?

-Let's see how precise.

Oh, here we go.

-Have you made cake pops before?

-No.

It's better to hold it closer to the...

Further down the stick, so you have more control.

Otherwise it might just fling off.

THEY LAUGH

-Right, yes, OK. Got you.

-Shake it when it's upright.

-Oh, OK.

SHE LAUGHS

It's like The Generation Game. It's ridiculous. I've made a nose, see?

-Yeah, that wouldn't make the cut, I don't think.

-Wouldn't it?

-No.

-Sorry.

Never mind.

'Once it's dry, the face is created,

'again using melted candy.'

-Like that.

-OK.

Yeah?

Let's see.

Yeah. It's a little bit high up, but it's OK.

SHE GIGGLES

'I've created cream teas good enough for the Dorchester,

'I've even baked for royalty, but apparently I can't even make a cake pop!'

Then we're going to start doing the leopard print,

so we'll just sit them down a second. I'm going to take your black powder

and then I've got these little pipettes, because it makes it easier

getting the leaf varnish that we use to mix with the black.

And then start with the leopard spots.

Which is like a pattern, kind of three rough spots...

Just keep repeating the pattern over and over. Three, normally, I do.

Why is that?

-Because it looks like leopard print.

-Ah!

Um... No!

-It's this way.

-Yeah?!

Yours just look like lines.

They are supposed to go into like a little circle, like that.

So what I'm going to do, I'll leave you with this

and I'll get back to something I'm all right at. I'll bake a cake, OK?

-Yeah.

-So what I'm going to do is, I'm going to produce

a toffee and apple cake

that you'll be able to stick all these cake pops into.

-Oh, perfect!

-I think it'll look quite decorative.

'My toffee and apple cake is delicious enough on its own but,

'topped off with Clare's decorations,

'it'll make a perfect party treat.'

All the dry ingredients are fairly straightforward.

I'm putting the self-raising white flour,

self-raising wholemeal flour, in the bowl.

I'm also going to add baking powder and cinnamon,

to give it a little bit of a kick.

Cinnamon with toffee and apple is a marriage made in heaven.

So the next stage is, I'm going to crack two eggs into the other bowl.

What are you up to, Clare?

I'm going to make some little apple pops to go on the apple cake.

All right, fantastic. I've got my eggs in there.

I'm going to add my oil to this... and my milk too.

'Whisk the eggs and oil together until broken down.

'Into the flour add brown sugar and mix together.

'Then pour in the whisked eggs and oil.'

Now, I'm going to use a spatula. Get around...

and just begin to incorporate all these ingredients together.

Beautiful mixture.

There it is, that's what you're looking for -

a sort of soft dropping consistency.

'So that's the basic cake mix done.

'Next I'm adding peeled and chopped apples

'and toffee broken into smallish chunks.'

Fold all the ingredients together.

It's a moist cake, this. It's delicious,

because as it cooks, the apples burst as well

and the flavour just goes all the way through the cake. Look at that.

-I like those apples.

-Cute, aren't they?

-You could have done with a leaf on the other side as well.

-Ah!

So what I'm going to do,

this mix goes straight into a bowl which has been buttered.

So you get your mixture...

tip it all the way down to the edge...

and throw it straight into your bowl.

This whole thing goes into the oven at 180 degrees C

for 50 to 60 minutes.

Now, over here...

..I have the one that's been out and it's cooled,

because if I bring it out when it's hot it'll just collapse.

'Now, take a palette knife and just work around the cake

'until it comes loose.'

How many apple ones have you done?

I've done four, but I've got more.

Turn it upside down...

There you go. Straight out.

Now, that should hold some of your beautiful cake pops.

-Here are the green ones I made earlier.

-Oh, right, OK.

And then I've got the little red guys over here.

'If you don't have freshly-made cake pops to hand,

'just serve the cake as it is with custard or cream.'

I think with the expertise of Clare and her beautiful painting,

what we've created is a toffee and apple cake that's been flooded

with beautiful cake pops.

'It's been great to have new friends who've helped me create some

'wonderful dishes today.

'My Scottish hot-smoked salmon pie, thanks to Rob.

'My twist on an afternoon tea with added inspiration from Dr Annie,

'and of course my toffee apple cake festooned with Clare's cake pops.'

Please, tuck in and see what you think.

It smells good.

You've definitely got the textures there.

-The creaminess that you get with the hot-smoked salmon, it's great.

-Yeah.

I'll take some of this...

Yeah, I really like this.

The little pockets of toffee are amazing.

I hope you can join me next time on Pies And Puds. See you then.

-More, more, more, more!

-LAUGHTER

Have that one.

I've had enough cake pops.