Roasting Raymond Blanc: How to Cook Well


Roasting

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If you master the basic cooking techniques,

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you can build your confidence, cooking skills and repertoire.

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It's so easy once you understand the basics.

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And there's no better teacher than legendary Michelin starred chef,

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-Raymond Blanc.

-I feel like Picasso. Not quite.

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He wants to share what he's learnt in his professional kitchen...

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What is the Maillard reaction?

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Gives flavour, colour and taste to the food.

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..to help you achieve incredible results at home.

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That's the kind of dish you'll remember all of your life.

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Raymond will reveal the secrets behind the simple

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techniques at the heart of every dish.

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If you go too high, you burn it.

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If you go to slow, nothing happens.

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It goes beige, like English cuisine 40 years ago.

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From baking to roasting, poaching to frying, barbecuing and slow-cooking.

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-Ooh la la, and I mean, Ooh la la.

-And all in his own unique way.

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Raymond Blanc taught himself to cook. Now he'll teach you.

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What I promise to give you is a deep understanding of what's happening

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in your saucepan, in your oven

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and these techniques will help you become a better cook.

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Roasting is an extremely popular technique,

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very at home in the British kitchen.

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It adds colour, flavour and depth to any meal.

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Roasting is cooking an ingredient in the dry heat of an oven,

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using fat or oil to keep the surface of the food moist

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whilst the inside cooks slowly.

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For me, roasting conjures up

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all sorts of wonderful smells in your kitchen.

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I think of Sunday lunch, I think of tradition, I think

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this wonderful smell of roasting invading your kitchen.

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What I'd like to share with you, is all the knowledge

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I acquired in 40 years and to try to take the guesswork out.

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When you see that roast, you have no idea. Is it cooked, is it not cooked?

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I will equip you with total knowledge and confidence

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and you know what's happening in that roast.

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Roasting gives great results to many foods, from vegetables to fruit

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and fish, as well as juicy joints of meat.

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And a great place to start with this technique, is a roast rib of beef,

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served with Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes.

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The traditional, Sunday roast.

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There's something really wonderful when you go into a kitchen

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to a nice piece of roast beef, it's something very special,

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especially when it's a French one cooking the roast beef

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because we all know too well, the incredible connotation.

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We call you rosbif, you call us frog.

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What I will do is prepare my beef.

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I will do French trimming. I love that.

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French trimming removes the flesh and fat from the bones,

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leaving them exposed.

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It gives the beef a smart look

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and can be done by the butcher or at home.

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Nothing goes to waste.

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The off-cuts are used as the foundation of the dish

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to add flavour.

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Brown them lightly.

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It gives flavour, colour and taste to the food

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and that is going to be a bed on which the meat is going to sit.

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Once the meat trimmings have taken on some colour, add onion, carrot,

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garlic and thyme and water will create a wonderful jus.

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That will take about 10 minutes to acquire heat.

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Next, score the surface of the beef.

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This allows the surrounding dry heat of the oven to penetrate

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deep into the flesh.

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The roasting bed becomes a trivet which elevates the rib of beef,

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stopping it from sticking to the base of the tin

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and allowing the hot air to circulate, so it can cook evenly.

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I've got my preheated oven at 170 degrees

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and I'm going to roast this beef for two hours.

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Unlike grilling or pan frying where direct heat quickly cooks

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the food through contact, oven roasting is a slower,

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indirect and more uniform way to cook.

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All the secrets of this beef will be revealed.

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I don't have any more!

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All the secrets of this beef will be revealed through this probe here.

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I know exactly what's going on.

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I'm in control, I'm in charge, I'm the boss. I think so.

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Baste the beef every 20 minutes.

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The juices prevent the meat becoming dry,

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adding colour as it roasts.

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While the rib of beef roasts with its French trimming,

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Adam has come to offer a very British touch.

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So, I know a lot about roasting, but not so much about Yorkshire puddings

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so I invited my friend, Adam.

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He knows everything about Yorkshire pudding.

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-OK, so, my mum's recipe.

-Mum's recipe. Good.

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Mum's recipe is equal amounts.

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I've got 200 flour, 200 milk and four medium eggs.

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-There's a lot of lumps here, Adam.

-That's OK.

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So we're going to leave this to rest for half an hour once it's mixed

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and we're going to cook it the same time as our roast potatoes.

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He's eaten a lot of Yorkshire puddings.

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-Whoa, whoa, whoa!

-No?

-OK, there we go.

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-Lovely and smooth. Perfect, lovely.

-I'll put that in the fridge.

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After two hours roasting in the oven,

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the beef is medium rare and ready to come out.

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Moment of truth here.

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Gorgeous. Look at that.

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So, what's fascinating is the temperature here's 40 degrees.

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That will go up to 60 within half an hour.

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Your beef will be perfectly medium.

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If you want it medium rare, you put a temperature of 35 degrees inside.

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It will go to 55.

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Most people rest the meat thinking it is just for resting.

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The temperature stays static. Oh, no, it doesn't.

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The temperature has momentum and energy and it goes up.

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In five minutes, it's already gone up to 48 degrees. That's how fast it is.

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I'm going to let my beautiful beef rest whilst Adam is

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creating his mum's Yorkshire pudding.

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The Yorkshire puddings go into the oven at 170 degrees for 30 minutes.

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The same time the parboiled potatoes need to get perfectly crisp,

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and for the resting beef to reach the optimum temperature

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and a medium-rare finish.

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The first cut. People throw it away, but it's one of my favourite ones.

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-Beautiful. Your mum will be proud of you, no doubt.

-I'm sure she is.

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The strained juices from the roasting tray

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create an instant delicious gravy.

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-You have a fantastic Sunday lunch. Let's eat my beef.

-My beef.

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That beef is absolutely delicious.

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The Yorkshire pudding is light and crispy and tastes lovely.

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I think a Yorkshireman should be very happy.

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-A Stropshire man, too.

-Shropshire man.

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-You say Stropshire?

-Shropshire.

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Roasting is a great technique for foods that have a firm

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structure like the beef joint.

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But it can also work well on a robust fish.

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Meaty fish with dense flesh, like turbot,

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is perfect for roasting as it can withstand the high heat.

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A more delicate fish would burn.

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In this next recipe, turbot roasts on a bed of herbs and spices

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taking in their flavours as it cooks.

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Served with braised fennel from Raymond's vegetable

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garden at Le Manoir and a buttery sauce, this is a wonderfully

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fresh dish packed with an assortment of aromas.

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The recipe I'm going to do is the most ancient recipe,

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still beautiful because classics, they defy time, defy fashions. OK?

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This dish is so beautiful, so simple. We've a bit of olive oil here.

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The olive oil prevents the turbot steaks sticking as they cook.

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Olive oil. Very gently you just...

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Lovely, perfect.

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A few minutes in a griddle pan will begin the browning process as the

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fish isn't roasted long enough in the oven for it to change colour.

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So, now, I'm going to prepare my roasting bed.

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I've got this beautiful fennel here. It's amazingly aromatic.

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Bit of sage - whatever you have, throw it in.

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A bit of thyme, a few zests of orange. That's lovely.

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The turbot will rest on a bed of fresh and dried herbs and spices.

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It'll be infused with their flavours as it roasts in the oven.

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And, as with the beef, the aromatic bed acts as a trivet,

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raising the fish and allowing it to cook evenly.

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BEEPING

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OK, tres bien. Voila.

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A coating of olive oil will add flavour and keep the fish moist

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as the oven's dry heat gently cooks it through.

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13 minutes at 180 temperature.

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While the turbot is roasting, fry already cooked fennel

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which will complement the herby tastes of the fish.

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What a lovely noise. I could stay here all day. So beautiful.

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Listen to that noise.

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Wonderful, wonderful, caramelised brown smell of fennel,

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orange, lemon, anise.

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And then what you do, always when you roast, baste a little bit.

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The juice of olive oil now has got the most incredible flavour. OK?

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So use it.

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My fennel now looks lovely. I smell them and they are groaning.

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Ooh la la, camera, s'il vous plait.

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You must see that. Look at that, sir.

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Slow caramelisation. Some salt.

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Very little.

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That takes a lot of practice.

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-Very few people are able to do that.

-Like Mr Miyagi!

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Dress the fish with a buttery sauce.

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First, soften shallots in a little butter and water.

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Add white wine, tomatoes, chives and chervil to make a light fresh,

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herby jus.

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All the herbs. Beautiful.

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So lovely, so simple.

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Leave the roast turbot to rest.

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Leave it two or three minutes

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and your fillet will be absolutely lovely.

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This will intensify the flavours and firm up the flesh

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which will be easier to cut.

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Serve the fish with the braised fennel and buttery sauce.

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Very simple jus here.

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Then move the skin away, the black skin, if you don't like it.

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Look at that. Beautiful.

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And that is... Look at how shiny it is.

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Look at that. Barely cooked. You can see it is not overcooked.

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Roasting gave the turbot, a wonderful fish, even more character.

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I mean that is divine.

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That's very good.

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Fish, meat and even salad can be enriched by oven roasting.

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In this next recipe, beetroot, a tough root vegetable, is transformed,

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becoming sweet and tender when roasted.

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The beetroot is mixed with chicory and walnuts, then paired with

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a roasted goat's cheese in golden breadcrumbs to create a warm salad.

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A classic combination of flavours and techniques.

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Cooking techniques, there's always a crossover between roasting,

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poaching, bit of steaming and that is typical of that dish.

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The roasted cheese is simple and straightforward.

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The beetroot, although they are roasted in the oven, actually,

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they are being steamed through their own juices, their own steam.

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They produce their own juice that should be used for the dressing.

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It's a bit of poaching, bit of roasting, c'est la vie.

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Sometimes lines get blurred.

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Here it is.

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First, I've got my beetroot from my garden, of course.

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I'm lucky, I'm very, very lucky. They're seriously organic.

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They have their own personality. They're delicious.

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See, I told you they have their own personality.

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All we're going to do is to keep to cook them in a papillote,

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an envelope made of paper or aluminium, generally,

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where you wrap the food hermetically and steam in within their own juices.

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That's very, very simple.

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Roasting breaks down the beetroot's tough cell walls,

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softening it as it cooks.

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Its earthy notes will sweeten as starch converts to sugar.

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Then press it, fold it, voila.

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You've got a sealed papillote here which I'm going to bake

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for two hours, 160.

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Tres bien. That's lovely.

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Of course, you can see they've lost their perfect shape,

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they are a little bit like me, un-shapen, a bit of a bulge here.

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Of course, the water has gone out of them.

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Then I've got this beautiful jus from my olive oil which I'll

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keep, of course. Tres bien.

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Look at that, they are beautiful.

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Look at this colour. The smell of it.

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The smell of it is so different than poached with lots of water.

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Here, by roasting it in its own papillote, you add flavour.

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The roasting juice becomes the base of the salad dressing.

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Add olive oil, shallots and red wine vinegar.

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A splash of water to thin.

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And season.

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Next, mix the chopped, roasted beetroot

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and raw chicory into the dressing.

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That's absolutely lovely.

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The delicate goat's cheese adds a creamy texture to the salad.

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What we're going to do is this wonderful

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cheese from the Loire Valley.

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First, dip the cheese in flour to help the beaten egg stick.

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A tiny amount.

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Voila.

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This in turn will allow breadcrumbs soaked in olive oil to stick to the

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cheese and create a crispy coating

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as the goat's cheese roasts in the oven.

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Voila. So, what you want here is fast roasting,

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so you'll need six minutes at the highest temperature of your oven,

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which is about 230, to colour, give a crust

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and have a lovely melting inside.

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Voila.

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Don't forget your timer. Six minutes, that should do.

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After just six minutes, the roast cheese is ready to come

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out of the oven.

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OK. Ooh, I love to see that.

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Look at that cheese.

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Just melting down here, leaking out just perfectly.

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Leave it to rest so the heat can go on to cook perfectly

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the inside of the cheese.

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The goat's cheese becomes the centrepiece of the salad,

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which is sprinkled with crushed walnuts and chopped chives.

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A simple dish that can be prepared in advance.

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Goat's cheese ready to go in the oven, beetroot done.

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It's a no-brainer. It's an easy one and very lovely and delicious.

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Really lovely. Which is why it mustn't be too hot.

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Leave it two or three minutes. It's perfect now.

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The goat's cheese salad shows that combining techniques is

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the secret to many successful dishes.

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But using different techniques to cook a single ingredient can

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have stunning results as well.

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Raymond goes to London to meet chef, James de Jong.

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He's reviving the age-old tradition of brining,

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a wet curing technique, in his quest for the perfect roast

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and it's won him rave reviews.

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James learnt on the job working in respected restaurant

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kitchens around the country.

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At just 25, he was fast-tracked to head chef of this North London

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gastro pub's kitchen, famous for its roasts.

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I've actually heard that you are the very best roaster in town.

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Not the best roast beef, the best roaster.

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We kind of do things traditionally here.

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We don't use any kind of new, modern techniques.

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We like to keep things quite simple.

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You do a lot of roasts, so how do you do it? What kind of brine do you do?

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We do a salt, brown sugar, juniper, star anise.

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Brine is salted water infused with flavours.

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-OK, can we taste it?

-Yeah.

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It is typically used with poultry and pork before roasting.

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The meat is immersed in the liquid,

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so the salt can break down the muscle filaments.

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This allows the water to be taken in,

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making the meat incredibly juicy.

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Sugar is often added to counterbalance the salt.

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Yes, it is not too aggressive. Some can be so salty and aggressive.

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-It is lovely.

-It is almost caramel.

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Beautiful taste of the juniper berries.

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-Good flavours complement the pork.

-OK. How long do you brine it?

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We brine it for 24 hours, a joint like this.

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We want to get that flavour of the brine into the pork.

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But we don't want it to be overpowering.

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After soaking the pork loin in the brine for a day,

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James rubs olive oil into it before it roasts in the oven.

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The oil distributes the salt from the brine evenly,

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which will help the skin to crisp up.

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-You know, you touch your pig like it was your lover.

-It almost is.

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-You have to feel it.

-Very romantic. Absolutely, I fully understand.

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While it roasts,

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the salt in the brine gives the pork a tender texture.

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The sugar adds another quality,

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producing a beautifully crunchy skin.

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So, this is one that's been brined overnight in the salt

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and brown sugar solution and these two here haven't.

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You can see the difference between the colour on this and also,

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you know, a lot crispier crackling.

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That's full of sugar in the brine which has caramelised it

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on the outside.

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You know, it does kind of pay off doing that little extra step.

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The brining takes the Sunday roast to another level.

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All that remains is for Raymond to sample James' award winning cooking.

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-There we go.

-That looks lovely.

-Fantastic.

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Beautifully moist, beautiful and moist. James, you're a genius.

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Thank you very much.

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Shall we drink?

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-To good food, the roast beef, to James, to life.

-Cheers, to life.

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The Sunday roast mastered,

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now the challenge of roasting a whole game bird.

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Its lean meat responds brilliantly to roasting

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as it cooks quickly and evenly,

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adding richness to its unique flavour.

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This next recipe of roast pheasant served with bread sauce,

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and a fragrant berry jus,

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brings out the very best of British game.

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I'm going to roast a beautiful bird.

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It's a lady bird, it's a young pheasant - a young, female pheasant.

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How do I know?

0:20:130:20:14

Look at the legs, beautiful legs.

0:20:140:20:17

No, it's a small pheasant.

0:20:170:20:18

That's perfect for roasting.

0:20:180:20:20

The problem that we often have is the breast is quite tender

0:20:200:20:24

but the legs, my God, they can be so tough.

0:20:240:20:26

They can be and do you know why?

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Because the pheasant, most of the time runs.

0:20:280:20:30

Look at those legs, beautiful legs, well formed,

0:20:300:20:34

but full of tough ligament, ossified,

0:20:340:20:37

OK, which are running right through the legs, about eight or ten.

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By removing these tough splinters you make the legs much more tender

0:20:400:20:44

and it will cook at the same time as the breast.

0:20:440:20:46

That's very important when you cook any game bird. So, here we are!

0:20:460:20:50

Cut here, I liberate here.

0:20:510:20:54

Voila!

0:20:540:20:55

I can see the stick out here.

0:20:550:20:57

A little bit of salt to have more grip.

0:20:570:21:00

Voila! Look at that - those are bones.

0:21:010:21:05

Look at that - that is bone.

0:21:050:21:07

Voila!

0:21:090:21:11

Tres bien!

0:21:110:21:12

So now she's ready to be roasted.

0:21:120:21:14

Now...ready.

0:21:140:21:16

Before roasting in the oven

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the pheasant is pan-fried in rapeseed oil

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for around four minutes on each leg side.

0:21:210:21:24

This begins the cooking process and gives a great, nutty flavour.

0:21:240:21:27

Look at that, it's got...

0:21:270:21:30

Ah, heavenly.

0:21:300:21:32

I think we should eat more game in this country.

0:21:320:21:35

It's fantastic. It cannot be more free range than that, it's wild.

0:21:350:21:38

It's delicious. Wonderful flavour - easy to cook.

0:21:380:21:41

Low fat, as well.

0:21:410:21:43

Once the pheasant skin has turned a golden brown,

0:21:430:21:46

keep it in the frying pan with all its juices

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and place in a preheated oven at 170 degrees.

0:21:490:21:53

After 20 minutes roasting in the oven, take the pheasant out.

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My pheasant is ready.

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There it is.

0:22:030:22:05

It's beautifully gold outside,

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crispy, as well.

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Rest it, about ten minutes

0:22:090:22:12

before carving it.

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Put it in a warm place.

0:22:140:22:16

While the bird rests, and the meat tenderises further,

0:22:160:22:20

the roasting juices left in the pan can be turned into a fruity sauce.

0:22:200:22:24

Add port, juniper berries, red wine,

0:22:240:22:27

redcurrant jelly and blackberries.

0:22:270:22:29

That's really rich.

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There's a little jus in here that we are going to add to the sauce.

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So just carve here,

0:22:370:22:40

the breast we will carve here like that.

0:22:400:22:42

The roast pheasant meat is perfectly pink and tender

0:22:420:22:45

and sits on a bed of bread sauce.

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Put the leg here.

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And then we've got this wonderful little jus here,

0:22:500:22:53

but you really don't need very much.

0:22:530:22:55

It's tasty, it's simple to cook.

0:22:550:22:57

It's relatively inexpensive, as well.

0:22:570:22:59

And so gorgeous, it roasts so beautifully.

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Amazing flavours.

0:23:030:23:05

But don't just think of roasting for savoury dishes.

0:23:090:23:13

This classic technique, using one ingredient

0:23:130:23:15

and its rich basting juices,

0:23:150:23:17

creates stunning desserts too.

0:23:170:23:20

In his next recipe, Raymond roasts a pineapple,

0:23:200:23:24

caramelising the whole fruit,

0:23:240:23:26

serving it with a pineapple crisp and a cool pineapple sorbet.

0:23:260:23:29

A spectacular dessert, fit for a queen.

0:23:290:23:33

Of course we all know pineapple is delicious just on its own,

0:23:340:23:37

but this one I'm going to roast it whole.

0:23:370:23:40

The dry heat will completely brown and caramelise the pineapple.

0:23:400:23:44

The juices will come out.

0:23:440:23:45

I'll put a beautiful vanilla syrup, as well, onto it,

0:23:450:23:48

so the caramelisation will go on for two hours!

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It will show the wonderful technique of roasting.

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Actually, it's a dish which I created for the Queen Mum,

0:23:540:23:56

many, many years ago.

0:23:560:23:58

First carefully peel the pineapple's prickly skin.

0:23:580:24:02

So don't go too much into the flesh.

0:24:020:24:05

Parfait! OK, tres bien. I would like to do something fun, OK?

0:24:050:24:08

Just something to add something to my dessert.

0:24:080:24:10

Something surprising.

0:24:100:24:12

I work my mandolin to do some pineapple sunflowers. That's it.

0:24:120:24:16

The pineapple slices are soaked in a sweet water and sugar syrup.

0:24:160:24:19

This balances the acidity of the pineapple

0:24:190:24:22

and gives the slices a crisp texture when they're dried in the oven,

0:24:220:24:26

for an hour at 100 degrees.

0:24:260:24:28

I've got this wonderful pineapple here

0:24:280:24:30

but it is full of eyes, too many eyes for me, looking at me.

0:24:300:24:34

Too much, too many. So I want to remove those eyes.

0:24:340:24:37

So you do little cuts.

0:24:370:24:39

Oh, Raymond, you're a genius. Unbelievable!

0:24:420:24:44

Look at that. HE CHUCKLES

0:24:440:24:47

Voila!

0:24:470:24:48

And just around the top here...

0:24:480:24:50

So it's lovely and rounded

0:24:500:24:52

and attractive.

0:24:520:24:54

Voila! We've got our pineapple now.

0:24:540:24:56

That's all my trimmings for my caramel, so nothing is lost.

0:24:560:25:00

The pineapple will be basted

0:25:000:25:01

with this sweet caramel sauce as it roasts.

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For the caramel, mix sugar and unsalted butter

0:25:040:25:07

and flavour with the pineapple trimmings.

0:25:070:25:09

A bit of skin, no problem.

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Add 200 mls of water.

0:25:110:25:14

So bring back to simmering point

0:25:140:25:16

so there's a beautiful exchange and cook it for about 15-20 minutes.

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No longer, it will kill the flavour.

0:25:200:25:23

And finally, with the sauce simmering, a Caribbean touch.

0:25:230:25:27

So rum, that's a special basting juice called rum,

0:25:270:25:32

which will add that extra flavour.

0:25:320:25:34

30 gram, roughly, you can always add more later.

0:25:340:25:38

While the sauce reduces, make a citrus sugar

0:25:380:25:41

which will add sweetness and a zingy flavour to the roasting pineapple.

0:25:410:25:44

Grate the zest of a lemon,

0:25:440:25:46

orange and two limes onto a bed of caster sugar.

0:25:460:25:49

Voila! Tres bien, that's plenty.

0:25:490:25:51

Then all what you have to do is to mix the sugar together.

0:25:510:25:55

OK, so now we have our pineapple.

0:25:560:25:58

I'm going to brush it with clear vanilla.

0:25:580:26:03

It smells good - amazing.

0:26:030:26:06

That is so lovely.

0:26:060:26:07

The puree of vanilla syrup will add another fragrant

0:26:070:26:10

layer of flavour as the fruit roasts.

0:26:100:26:13

Roll the pineapple in the citrus sugar

0:26:130:26:15

and finish by coating with the strained caramel sauce.

0:26:150:26:19

Make sure you use the right saucepan.

0:26:190:26:22

If it's too small, you cannot baste

0:26:220:26:24

and if it's too wide the caramel keeps evaporating.

0:26:240:26:27

I'm going to roast the pineapple,

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170 degrees for two hours.

0:26:290:26:31

Baste the pineapple with the caramel sauce

0:26:320:26:35

every 15 minutes to keep it moist.

0:26:350:26:37

And the more you baste it, the more caramelisation will happen,

0:26:450:26:49

deeper flavour, better exchange of flavours,

0:26:490:26:51

you win all the way.

0:26:510:26:52

After two hours roasting in the oven,

0:26:530:26:55

the sugars in the pineapple have caramelised

0:26:550:26:58

to give it a rich, golden brown coating.

0:26:580:27:00

The dense fruit fibres have softened

0:27:000:27:03

producing a melt-in-the-mouth texture.

0:27:030:27:05

Hey, Benoit!

0:27:070:27:10

Ah, c'est joli.

0:27:120:27:13

Can you speak English?

0:27:130:27:15

Yes, I can make an effort for you

0:27:150:27:16

with my very strong French accent for you.

0:27:160:27:18

You have a very strong French accent.

0:27:180:27:20

It's unbelievable, I can hardly understand you.

0:27:200:27:23

-Well, there you go. You take it, or leave it, it's there.

-RAYMOND LAUGHS

0:27:230:27:26

It's beautiful, you see inside, it's just like, wow!

0:27:260:27:30

Benoit has made a refreshing pineapple sorbet

0:27:300:27:32

to complement the sweet, sticky roast pineapple.

0:27:320:27:36

There's the expert, best patissier in England,

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well one of the best patissiers in England.

0:27:380:27:40

We've worked together 17 years.

0:27:400:27:42

-How did we do that.

-I don't know.

0:27:420:27:44

To me, really what you have here is the best of roasting.

0:27:460:27:49

You've got a beautiful caramelised flavour,

0:27:490:27:51

the pineapple is king on that plate. You can smell it from here.

0:27:510:27:54

It's pineapple three ways, in fact, yeah?

0:27:540:27:56

You've got the crisp, you've got the roasting pineapple

0:27:560:27:59

and you've got the sorbet, all pineapple kind of flavour.

0:27:590:28:01

Mmm.

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-Thank you very much.

-Merci.

0:28:040:28:06

Excellent dish. So let's arrange a dish together.

0:28:060:28:08

That's OK. No problem.

0:28:080:28:10

Aww! Merci.

0:28:120:28:14

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