Chocolate Raymond Blanc's Kitchen Secrets


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For the last 35 years, Raymond Blanc has inspired the world with his cooking.

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It's about celebrating that gorgeous, glorious food and sharing a special moment with your loved ones.

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Now he's opening his kitchen and sharing his secrets.

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I've made all the mistakes which could be made, so you don't have to make them yourself.

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Showing, with a little effort...

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Food is so, so beautiful.

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..anyone can bring some joy to the dinner table.

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Even the most complicated dish is not impossible to make.

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On Kitchen Secrets, Raymond demystifies the art

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of creating show-stopping desserts with chocolate.

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-Really lovely, yummy.

-From a simple chocolate mousse...

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That air, so light!

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..to a chocolate tart finished to perfection.

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It's so simple.

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No sweat, no?

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Chocolate fondant, a great dinner party dessert that never fails to impress.

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And for the grand finale, cafe creme, a cup sculpted entirely from chocolate.

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You have to love someone so very much to make this dessert

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and it's certainly a proof of love. Bon appetit.

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Give me another egg, Monty.

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Give me another egg.

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In the back kitchen of his Oxfordshire restaurant, Raymond's preparing his first recipe.

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To begin, Raymond's take on a classic - dark chocolate mousse,

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which he says anyone can create in just ten minutes.

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So I'm going to cook the simplest chocolate mousse in the world

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and probably one of the best as well. It's Maman Blanc, my mother's, recipe.

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All what you have, three ingredients. 170 grams maximum of chocolate,

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about 20 grams sugar and seven egg whites.

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You can buy a good chocolate.

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It is the quality of the chocolate which is very, very important,

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because the gastronomy starts from here.

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If you have a great chocolate, you'll have a great chocolate mousse - unless you decide to murder it.

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I will use a bain-marie here.

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No boil, just gentle simmer, just on the simmering point.

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Leave it to melt down of its own accord. It's not a prima donna.

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Occasionally, you can stir it, should you wish.

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I've got my beautiful eggs here.

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They are organic. I'm only going to use the egg white.

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You want to make sure that you don't have any trace of

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egg yolk, because egg yolk is fat and the white hates fat.

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You will actually lose about one fifth of your lift if you have any fat in here.

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Don't mind, don't worry about that, just scoop it out a bit - no problem.

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OK, voila.

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And I'm going to add a little bit of my lemon juice to my egg white.

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It will bring the egg white together.

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I can beat it as long as I want to, it will not separate.

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Now it's time to get going with a little light whipping.

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Years ago, I was a masochist but now...

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I've learned a few lessons.

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I learned to economise myself.

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So, what I want here, billions of bubbles of air as big as possible so my mousse is as light as possible.

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When the eggs start to foam, add 40 grams of caster sugar.

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What a machine! Oh, mon Dieu.

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So now, is it ready? No. This is a bit too soupy.

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You can see... Oh, I hate this thing.

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I prefer a whisk, you know? Voila.

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Merci, Adam. Merci.

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OK, I've got my melted chocolate.

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So you place one third

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of your egg white.

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But then work fast, very fast.

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The risk is, if you're putting the cold egg white into the warm chocolate,

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that's going to seize up and you'll have lots of solid pieces into your chocolate.

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Having lightened the chocolate with a third of the egg whites, carefully fold in the remainder.

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It's a nice movement, OK? Look at my movement. I take it like that and I turn...

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..around. Up from underneath.

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Voila.

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Just pour it in.

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The mousse then needs to go straight into the fridge to cool for two hours.

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That's it. Simple as that.

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So it should take, for any cook, about ten minutes of your life.

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I think it's worth it, much worth it.

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There are hundreds of varieties of chocolate on the market

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and for Raymond, 100% dark chocolate is irresistible.

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That is seriously bitter. That's what I love the most.

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It's got so many lovely qualities. It melts in the mouth, wonderful flavours.

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When you feel melancholic, "Oh, let's have a bit of chocolate."

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You feel a bit under pressure, "Oh, let's have a bit of chocolate."

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You feel happy, you want chocolate, so you must always, at all times, have chocolate in your cupboards.

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That's always de rigueur.

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To test his office staff's taste buds, he's taking them a selection,

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ranging from a sweet milk chocolate to the darkest chocolate available.

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OK, Adam, let's see the girls. See if they love their chocolate, OK?

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Hello!

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I have decided... Can I have your attention one minute?

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I have decided to change the bonus system. We pay by chocolate now.

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OK, so you can do a bit of testing of chocolate.

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Who doesn't like chocolate?

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Number nine is the cheapest, containing just 20% cocoa solids.

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-So which one you prefer?

-Number nine is beautiful.

-Number nine, yes.

-Number nine is brilliant.

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-It's like...

-Yes, most of you have loved the number nine.

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Actually that's the worst chocolate.

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It's very highly sweet, very addictive, the sweetness.

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It's got only 20% cocoa content.

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I really feel so, so disappointed, so from tomorrow we are going to have

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a chocolate tasting every day at four o'clock exactly.

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Hooray!

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Adam! I asked you bran flakes this morning. I was very clear about it.

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Raymond's next recipe is a chocolate delice,

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a rich, dark chocolate tart with a nutty, crunchy base.

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The delice au chocolat is a bit like a tarte au chocolat.

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For the base, I've used bran flakes.

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And you just...

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crunch them up nicely, and you have a praline. Praline you can buy in any shops. You can also make it yourself.

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Praline paste is easy to make.

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All you need to do is blitz equal quantities of roasted hazelnuts and caramelised sugar in a blender.

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Then you mix the flakes to your hazelnut paste.

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So simple. It's a builder's job, OK.

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You don't need to be a chef.

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You need to be a good builder.

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You know, it's like doing some cement, no?

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Voila.

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And that's my base for my tart.

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Taste it. Really, really lovely. Yummy.

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Place the mixture between two sheets of greaseproof paper and get ready to roll.

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Adam, can I have my rolling pin, please?

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I want a big one, a serious one.

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That one, I find it a bit too thin.

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Tres bien.

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That's fine. Tres bien.

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It is wonderful, very nutty.

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There's a nut texture here and, Adam, a better palette knife, mon petit.

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Thank you very much, Adam.

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And that, I'm going to keep it in the fridge.

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Ah, now,

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le chocolat. Let's go. Tres bien.

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Next, the filling for the chocolate tart.

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I'm going to boil my milk and my cream together. The eggs...

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Tres bien. So our milk now is rising, is rising, is rising up.

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I'm going to pour it over my eggs.

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The eggs are magical.

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The eggs are bonding that cream, and now all that I've got to do is to add my chocolate.

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Oh, la! Beautiful chocolate.

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Look at it. Voila.

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For this, Raymond's using a dark chocolate containing 70% cocoa solids.

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You see? Beautiful.

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Yes.

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When the mixture is smooth, pour it into a pastry frame.

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Voila.

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Then put it in the fridge to set for at least six hours.

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Voila.

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While the tart sets, prepare the decorations that will transform this simple dish into a work of art.

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First, make a caramel. Melt sugar in a heavy base pan until it's rich and golden in colour.

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What I want is a bit of darker

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colour so I can give a bit of flavour to my caramel.

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Put a roasted hazelnut on a cocktail stick,

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dip it in the caramel and pin in some Blu-tac to produce a long tail.

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Look at that - beautiful!

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Next, a light coffee foam.

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Add melted gelatine to some strong coffee and a little sugar, then whisk until frothy.

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So you've got the richness in the hazelnut, the praline, and then the richness again in the chocolate.

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So I want a sauce which is like air, you know, something so light.

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OK?

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Once the tart is set, it's time to decorate.

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Dust with some grated 70% chocolate.

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Nice textures, no?

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Icing sugar, please! Tres bien.

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Just very lightly...

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It's so simple.

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No sweat, no?

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Here's just a tiny little garnish - very pretty, very dainty.

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Voila, tout simplement.

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You never throw those things away, please, Adam.

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Next, a perfect dinner party dessert and a guaranteed hit

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with chocoholic guests - a soft-centred, dark chocolate cake with a salted caramel centre.

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It's chocolate I think that everyone will truly love because it's got

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everything which is perfect about chocolate.

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And wonderful for dinner parties because you can actually make it in advance.

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Imagine, you've got your friends around the table,

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they're all happy, you've served them a great starter, a great main course, fabulous cheese.

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Then you get up - you make sure everyone knows that you get up - and you say,

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"Monsieur, my friends, I'm going to make my fondant au chocolat."

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And you disappear in the kitchen

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and come back five minutes after with your fantastic fondant au chocolat and they will say, "Wow!"

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You get serious admiration, I can assure you - serious admiration.

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Start the recipe with a salted caramel.

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Prepare a caramel base by melting caster sugar.

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In a separate pan, mix together double cream, brown sugar, a little glucose and bring to the boil.

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So now I'm adding the cream, brown sugar, glucose to the caramel.

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Wonderful fusion - look at that. I will get the temperature at 102.

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Why? Because I want a rich caramel, which is going to hold together.

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While the caramel cools, get a plastic mould.

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Some silicon moulds - you can buy them now about everywhere.

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But you can buy, if you don't have that, you can buy ice-cube trays, no problem.

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I want to add a little bit of my lemon juice to give it a bit of oomph,

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and a bit of salt. The salt, of course, we all know too well

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is a catalyst to flavour, and that goes very well with sugar - but very little.

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Salt is a natural flavour enhancer and balances the sweetness of the caramel.

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Let's taste.

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Ah, that's very intense.

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Salty, acid come in, the pepperiness... That's lovely.

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Allow the mixture to cool and then pour into individual moulds.

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Put the caramel in the freezer to set for two hours.

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Next, prepare the fondant mix.

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Begin by melting butter and dark chocolate over a pan of simmering water.

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And we spread the base. The base, I have two eggs,

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one egg yolk, 45 grams of icing sugar.

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OK? And a little bit of arrowroot,

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so I'm going to be a human machine.

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I'm going to whip this until it has a beautiful texture.

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You call it in French, le riband.

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The ribbon stage is reached when the mixture becomes thick enough

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for the whisk to leave a thin, ribbon-like trail behind it.

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Oh, it's a bit of sweat to go with it, I'm sorry.

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But you don't have to do it like me,

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you can actually do it in a machine and you can whistle at the same time.

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I don't know if I will achieve the riband or if the riband is going to kill me!

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After achieving your ribbon, prepare the cake moulds.

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Brush with butter and then dust with a mixture of cocoa powder and sugar.

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The butter will melt and will give a lovely crust outside.

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Voila.

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Tres bien. So now pour my fondant mix here...

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Tres bien.

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Et voila, that's ready.

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Using a ladle, pour the fondant mix into the moulds until they're three quarters full.

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Look at that - lovely.

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Nothing can beat chocolate. Beautiful! Voila, tres bien.

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So I'm waiting for my caramel.

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Can I have the caramel, please? Just there.

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So just place it...

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in the middle here. It's just buried very nicely here.

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Put the fondants in the fridge to cool for half an hour,

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then place them in the oven at 200 degrees centigrade for five minutes.

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When ready, allow them to cool before removing them from the moulds.

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The fondants can be set aside until you need them.

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Then it's time to concentrate on the decoration and make a rich chocolate sauce,

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combining milk and 70% dark chocolate.

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Hey, that's a good design that, you see?

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Typical. That's annoying for a cook.

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That's terrible, look! Look!

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The person who designed that should be burned!

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Oh, it's my name on it.

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Oh, God!

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LAUGHTER

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That's a good one. That's a good one.

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When you're ready to serve the fondants,

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put them back in the oven for eight minutes at 180 degrees centigrade.

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While the fondants are reheating, it's time for the crucial dressing of the plate.

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Begin with the chocolate sauce.

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HE SPEAKS FRENCH

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-Fondants are ready, chef.

-OK.

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OK, so you can do a very simple little garnish.

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Little bit of almond, pistachio.

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This is beautiful colour.

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Why not a little pistachio ice cream?

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A little spot underneath, un amande.

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See first if it's well cooked. Oh, look at that.

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Look at that!

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Look at all that cream oozing out, beautiful.

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Voila.

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At the heart of every great dish lies the perfect combination of flavours.

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The same can be said for the making of fine chocolates.

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Raymond is on his way to visit an old protege, William Curley, at his shop in Richmond.

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For his unusual combinations and skill, William's been awarded

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Best British Chocolatier for the last three years.

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Quite excited to let him see what we're doing here

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and hopefully he sees a little bit of his restaurant in our work.

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And just lovely to see him.

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-Good morning, everyone.

-Good morning!

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-Lovely William.

-Hello.

-Lovely.

-Good to see you.

-Are you well?

-I'm very well. Yourself?

-Very good.

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-Congratulations. Well done.

-Oh, thank you very much.

-Really brilliant.

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-You know, that's the first time I come to you?

-Yeah, yeah!

-I'm a disgrace!

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You're busy. I understand. Why don't you taste the chocolate?

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-Would you like to taste the Yuzu?

-Yes, absolument.

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-And it tastes of a good chocolate. Tell me if I'm wrong.

-No, no, you're right. You're right.

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And put...

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Put it in your mouth...

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Just close your eyes, relax and let go.

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-You get the lovely flavours coming through...

-And it's just goes on, these wonderful flavours.

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It truly does melt in your mouth, just completely dissolve, quietly.

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Perfect. Lovely.

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Mmm. Lovely textures.

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-Would you like to come upstairs?

-Love to.

-Let's go.

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Upstairs is William's test kitchen, where he experiments with different flavours.

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It's a lovely little laboratory here, a lovely little place to lose yourself,

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just create a new dish. Fantastic.

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It's lovely that you came in the shop at last. I'm just so happy to see you.

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Absolutely.

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He's going to make Raymond his award-winning rosemary and olive oil chocolate.

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So I have the whipping cream and when it comes to the boil, I'm then going to add the fresh rosemary.

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Allow it to infuse for, say, 20 minutes, so you've just got the flavour left within the cream,

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and then we'll emulsify that with the chocolate and a little bit of olive oil.

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It's quite an unusual combination as well.

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It really, really works extremely well.

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So I have one here that we actually...

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We made this one yesterday.

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-We cooled it down and then first thing this morning we've cut it.

-That's for you.

-Thank you.

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It's quite fascinating how the flavours from hot, from warm...

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-Mmm, change when they're cooled.

-Completely different.

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-Absolutely.

-But the structure has remained.

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It's really lovely to see the artisan at work, the craft,

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and that's why the chocolates are a bit more expensive, because it is certainly not a factory.

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All is handmade, piece by piece.

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That's what the difference is.

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Here.

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Put that here. It's here, tres bien.

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I just need to put my head together.

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For the last recipe, a feat of chocolate making,

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one of Raymond's signature desserts - cafe creme.

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A cup sculpted completely from chocolate,

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filled with iced espresso parfait, topped with cherry-liqueur sabayon, with sugar-coated truffles.

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I am going to prepare a very special dessert, and this is one of my oldest desserts.

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It took me about six months' solid work on this dessert to realise it,

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and you'll understand exactly why, OK?

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You have to love someone so very much to make this dessert,

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and that's certainly a proof of love, there's no doubt about it. But it's possible.

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You've got 500g of chocolate, which is melted at about 50, 55 degree, OK?

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I have 500... Adam, please, Adam, I need it now.

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Can you leave it?

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Sorry. OK, so it was getting too hot?

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No, it was off? OK. Ah, can you just...?

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Why don't they do a bloody thing which would stick to it, no?

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They give you a thermometer and you put it on the side

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and the first thing it does, it slid in the chocolate. Great.

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Instead of putting a little catch maybe here on that side.

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See again, choose your equipment well.

0:22:500:22:52

A good thermometer is useful, as the chocolate needs to reach the right consistency to sculpt.

0:22:540:22:59

First, heat the chocolate to 55 degrees Centigrade.

0:22:590:23:02

-Add chopped chocolate to reduce the temperature, then reheat to 32 degrees.

-Voila.

0:23:020:23:09

This is known as tempering.

0:23:090:23:12

It refines the chocolate by melting unstable fat crystals, making it smoother, easier to shape and shiny.

0:23:120:23:18

So now I'm going to start building up my chocolate cup.

0:23:180:23:22

To create the cup, use a flat rectangular plastic sheet, which you can buy from cookery shops.

0:23:220:23:28

Right, a little here.

0:23:280:23:31

Tres bien. I'm going to pick up...

0:23:380:23:40

Where's my knife? It's here, my knife is here.

0:23:400:23:45

Tres bien.

0:23:450:23:47

Voila. Merci, Adam.

0:23:470:23:48

-Voila.

-Place the chocolate-coated plastic into a circular mould.

0:23:530:23:57

Parfait. I'm pressing it on it here, then afterward I'm opening it up completely so it's a perfect circle.

0:23:570:24:04

So we do the joint. We can take a little bit of chocolate here, voila.

0:24:040:24:08

Voila, tres bien.

0:24:120:24:13

So I will do my saucers now.

0:24:130:24:15

I tried all sorts of surface.

0:24:150:24:18

Glass, china. And they all stuck, because they are porous, OK?

0:24:180:24:23

So I saw a piece of clingfilm,

0:24:230:24:25

I say,

0:24:250:24:27

"Eureka, of course."

0:24:270:24:30

First thing you need to do is to oil your saucer, so the clingfilm actually can slip on it. You just...

0:24:300:24:36

..squeeze, and I'm going to dip it.

0:24:390:24:43

Voila.

0:24:430:24:45

And I'm going to move away the excess, and I'm going to create a lip

0:24:450:24:50

in order to release later much of that saucer.

0:24:500:24:53

So now we'll do the handles.

0:24:530:24:55

Make a cone using greaseproof paper.

0:24:560:24:58

Pour in melted chocolate, cut a hole in the end and shape your handles.

0:24:580:25:04

Voila, tres bien. You never put them in the fridge to set, OK?

0:25:060:25:09

That will get again all white.

0:25:090:25:11

Room temperature is perfect.

0:25:110:25:14

All the chocolate moulds will need at least five hours to set.

0:25:140:25:19

Now I'm going to do the sugar cubes,

0:25:190:25:21

and the great thing about sugar cubes is the ganache.

0:25:210:25:25

A ganache is the same as chocolate-truffle filling,

0:25:250:25:28

and is a great way to make home-made chocolates.

0:25:280:25:31

Burst through the skin and boil over.

0:25:310:25:33

To make, boil double cream, add 70% dark chocolate and stir.

0:25:330:25:38

You get that lovely satiny... That lovely quality, silky quality.

0:25:410:25:44

It's so beautiful.

0:25:440:25:46

Clingfilm, and then voila, you pour it in here.

0:25:460:25:50

-Voila.

-The ganache is now ready to put in the fridge to set for six hours.

0:25:550:26:00

So, the ganache, it's cooled down nicely, and all that I need is a hot blade.

0:26:060:26:11

Oh, that cuts like butter.

0:26:110:26:14

OK?

0:26:140:26:16

Tres bien. I've got the lovely sugar cubes here.

0:26:200:26:22

Now we are ready to build the cafe creme, OK?

0:26:220:26:27

Just unfold, and very carefully, that's it, voila.

0:26:270:26:33

And you've got your perfect saucer.

0:26:330:26:35

Raymond's using his solid-top cooker to weld all the pieces together,

0:26:450:26:49

but a hot pan will do the job just as well.

0:26:490:26:53

That cup becomes coffee-proof.

0:26:530:26:54

Gently, gently press slowly.

0:26:540:26:57

So now we do the handle.

0:26:570:26:59

Voila, tres bien.

0:27:030:27:05

Line the base with a biscuit soaked in espresso.

0:27:050:27:08

-Tres bien, in the bottom here.

-Now for the filling.

0:27:100:27:13

This is an iced-espresso parfait.

0:27:130:27:17

Just egg yolk frothed up with espresso coffee and with cream, which you freeze.

0:27:170:27:22

Finish with a bit of alcohol.

0:27:280:27:30

Add a dash of cherry liqueur to the sabayon foam to make the espresso topping.

0:27:300:27:36

Voila.

0:27:430:27:45

So Tom, the young man who has worked with us for two months now,

0:27:470:27:50

-is going to taste the cafe creme. So no pressure, Tom!

-No!

0:27:500:27:55

-OK, so what do you think?

-Very nice.

0:27:580:28:00

Out of ten first?

0:28:000:28:03

-Eight. Eight.

-Eight? You're a tough guy.

0:28:070:28:09

You're a tough guy. You just wouldn't give me two more, you give me eight! I've done very well!

0:28:090:28:15

Have a good day!

0:28:150:28:16

Voila, tres bien.

0:28:190:28:20

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0:28:300:28:34

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0:28:340:28:38

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