Day at the Races Royal Recipes


Day at the Races

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'The royal family are steeped in tradition and throughout history

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'the royal tables have showcased culinary excellence.

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'In celebration of royal food...'

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We know it's the Queen's recipe

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because we've got it in our own hand.

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'..from the present and the past...'

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That is proper regal.

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'..we recreate old family favourites.'

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Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.

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What a mess.

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'We sample royal eating alfresco...'

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-Oh, wow!

-That is what you want.

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'..and revisit the most extravagant times...'

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Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon, oysters

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-and turbot dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.

-Unbelievable.

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This is Royal Recipes.

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Hello. I'm Michael Buerk and welcome to Royal Recipes.

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This is Audley End,

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a magnificent stately home built in the style of a royal palace

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and a former home of King Charles II.

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In the splendour of the gardens,

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halls and kitchen of this grandest of country houses,

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we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.

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And it all starts here with this gem -

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a royal kitchen maid's cookbook.

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The only surviving recipe book of its kind in the Royal Archive.

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This is an exact copy of

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the original which is kept at Windsor Castle.

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Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls

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who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s.

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And for the first time in over 100 years

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we will be bringing these recipes back to life.

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This time we're off to the races with the royal family.

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The passion for racing dates back generations

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and racing days at Epsom and Ascot are amongst

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the Queen's favourite events,

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and a time to entertain friends and family.

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Today in the royal kitchens,

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chef Anna Haugh prepares Mutton Pies a la Windsor,

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from a 1930s Royal Ascot lunch.

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Even if you don't have any winners on the racecourse,

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you've got a winner on the plate.

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Historian Dr Annie Gray reveals how Edward VII

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liked to combine two of his great passions - racing and eating.

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There was a whole rash of dishes named for racing.

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A la Jockey Club.

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A la Race Winner.

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And former royal chef Darren McGrady

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gets cooking for the royals at Epsom.

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Looks gorgeous on the plate.

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Perfect for the royal table and a day at the races.

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In the historic kitchen of this grand stately home,

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we're returned to the reign of the Queen's father, King George VI,

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and a dish from his first Royal Ascot.

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Hello. And here we are in the grand kitchen

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with top London chef Anna Haugh.

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The royals seem always to have loved racing. In fact, King Charles II

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actually bought this wonderful house

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because it's close to Newmarket races,

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and he wanted the most impressive house close to

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the racecourse for entertaining.

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What do you think of racing? You're Irish, after all.

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I am Irish. I'm very fond of racing. Of course I am.

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-Perhaps not as much as the royals, though.

-Perhaps not.

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-So what are you cooking?

-I'm going to make mutton pie.

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That sounds a bit ordinary.

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No, this is no ordinary mutton pie.

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This is Mutton Pie a la Windsor.

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-That's got a ring to it, hasn't it?

-Yes.

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And this one I think was actually served at Royal Ascot in 1937,

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which is the first Royal Ascot that King George VI, the Queen's father,

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went to as king.

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So it sounds posh.

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-Really posh.

-The royals, when they went to the races,

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probably still do when they go to the races,

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they don't just have a snack, packet of crisps, and, you know, something like that.

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-No.

-They have the works.

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And you'll see as I make this pie

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that there is the works going on here.

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-So it sounds posh.

-OK. Let's get cracking.

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So here I have some onions, slowly cooking in some butter.

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And I'm going to add the chopped up mutton.

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Now this is a perfect dish for leftovers.

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So in goes the chopped mutton

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and I'm going to add to that my lamb stock.

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Now you need to reduce this down,

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so you need to cook it for quite a while, maybe about an hour or so

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until it looks like this...

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Oh, gosh! That really does look rich.

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I know. You just want to eat that with a spoon right now.

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-Yeah, absolutely.

-But you can't, Michael, you can't.

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Don't be too sure.

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This is our filling ready to go.

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-Yep.

-And here I have blind baked four tartlet shells.

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So I've placed a sheet of grease-proof paper

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on top of the pastry

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and then, inside that, I've added raw rice.

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This just holds down the grease-proof paper...

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-Stopping it rising.

-Exactly. And you can re-use it.

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-That's sneaky, isn't it?

-Yeah, it's quite clever.

-Yeah.

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So I'm going to fill these moulds now.

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This mix looks perfect.

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I think this dish is originally a Victorian dish, isn't it?

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One of Queen Victoria's royal chefs, Francatelli, his name was...

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-That's right.

-..came up with it.

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They're individual pies, so it's, you know, one pie per person.

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And well filled, aren't they? And deeply filled.

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That's it. OK, so once they're filled you just want to seal them.

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So I'm going to make a kind of lamb jelly.

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That's two sheets of gelatine

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in with about 200ml of your lamb stock.

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And once that's just dissolved in, which you can see...

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-Oh, just goes like that.

-Just like that.

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When you say seal it, what do you mean by that?

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It means that this gelatine will set on top of that delicious,

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succulent mixture and it will set on top of it and hold it in together

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because these pies are actually served cold.

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And now, for our final stage,

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we've puff pastry to go on top of this one.

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-This is a la Windsor.

-A la Windsor.

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So you need three cutters for this.

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I've already cut out four of the large ones,

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so now I'm going to cut out four of the medium-sized cutter.

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And straightaway after that

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I'm going to cut out the centre of these

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because right in the centre

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is where we're going to pour our little jellied jewels.

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Gosh! This is a lot of trouble, isn't it?

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I know. All for the royals, all for the royals.

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Now, so, little bit of egg wash.

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-What's that for?

-This kind of holds all of them together,

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but also it gives it a lovely shine, so it's dual-purpose.

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-Yep. Now you've put that one... Ah, right.

-On top.

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-Yep.

-On top.

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Try to get it as centred as...

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-This is elaborate, isn't it?

-It is. And what's so lovely is that

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when it sits on top and we fill

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the centre of this with the jellied jewel,

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that's what I think really makes it quite unique.

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OK. Just another little bit of egg wash.

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-Yep.

-So you bake this in the oven, 160 degrees,

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25 minutes or so until its golden brown.

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And essentially they should look like these...

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-Oh, wow!

-Aren't they pretty?

-Yes, they certainly are.

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And they're going to get much prettier now in a minute.

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So you place them on top of your pie.

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Yep, put the lid on.

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And then, in a pan, I have a little bit of beef jelly.

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What is beef jelly?

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You cook down your beef stock, your beef bones and your vegetables,

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and then, just at the end, we add one or two leaves of gelatine

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so that it would set up.

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So just pour that on top.

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Yep.

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It's so lovely. I get a lot of pleasure out of this.

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-You like this bit, don't you?

-Yes, I do. I really, really do.

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It's a mutton pie. You and your jewels.

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You need to set these in the fridge, probably for about an hour.

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And when you take them out of the fridge they should look like this...

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I say.

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HE CHUCKLES

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-Sweet, huh?

-With the shiny jewels on the top.

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METAL RATTLES That rattle is the cutlery.

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I think these are so special and I'm hoping, fingers crossed,

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-at the centre...

-I thought it was going to shatter.

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-I love that sound.

-Ooh, yeah.

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Now, nearly there.

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-Look. Look at that. Look at that.

-Oh-oh-oh-oh!

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I didn't think it had set so beautifully.

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-Right, after you.

-OK.

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Gosh, there's a lot of meat in here, isn't there?

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Can I have...?

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Oh! Oh, yes, the consistency's great.

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I love the puff pastry on the top.

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-So different, isn't it?

-Yeah.

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Oh! That's really good.

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Well, I mean, even if you don't have any winners on the racecourse,

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you've got a winner on the plate.

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Mini mutton pies, just one of 11 courses served at

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King George VI's first Ascot meeting.

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Racing is of course the sport of kings,

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and that tradition goes back centuries.

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One English town lies at the heart of it all.

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Newmarket in Suffolk is the home of British horse racing

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and the Jockey Club has long-standing links

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with the royal family.

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One of its most colourful and enthusiastic royal visitors

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was Edward VII, also known as Bertie.

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Food historian Dr Annie Grey discovers what went on

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when Bertie was in town.

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Edward VII was a man known for grand passions -

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women, food and horse racing.

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Once a year he would hold an enormous Derby day banquet

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to celebrate and bring together two of those loves, at least.

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And it was held for members of an exclusive racing club -

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the Jockey Club.

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I've come here to Newmarket, the spiritual home of racing,

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to find out more about how Edward VII combined his love of food

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with his love of the turf.

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The Jockey Club is where owners and breeders have been meeting for over

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250 years and where the official governing body for horse racing in

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Britain was set up.

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Annie is meeting horse-racing historian Chris Garibaldi.

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-So, Chris, tell me about this room.

-Well, this is the coffee room,

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and so, in a sense, this is the sort of centre of the club where it

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originally started on this site in the 1750s.

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The one thing you've got to remember is the Jockey Club is not a club for

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jockeys. The word jockey was associated with people who ran

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horses, the aristocratic owners.

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And, of course, the aristocratic owners actually rode themselves,

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certainly in the 16th and 17th centuries.

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-It's quite a room, isn't it?

-It is, and what's lovely,

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you've got the survival of the booths which gives a real impression

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of what it would have been like.

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It's sort of people coming to exchange gossip,

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to settle their wagers,

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really an assembly space before people moved up to the racecourse.

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Although the royal family hasn't stayed at the Jockey Club since

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the days of George V, they're certainly very present here.

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-These are fantastic.

-There are royal portraits,

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paintings and artefacts along every corridor.

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What about the connection between Edward VII and the Jockey Club?

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From about 1861 he trains his own racehorses in Newmarket.

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And with the Prince of Wales,

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a whole sort of new set come in to Newmarket.

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And he stayed here, didn't he?

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He had a set of apartments built, and a staircase built for him?

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Yes, there was a separate entrance.

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The main entrance for club members is from Newmarket High Street

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but the king's entrance was from the other side of the site from

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the avenue, to allow him to come and go pretty well as he pleased.

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It was around this time that Edward VII brought back

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the tradition of spectacular banquets

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thrown the day after the Derby,

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known as the Derby dinners.

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The Derby dinner gave him an excuse to entertain on this kind of

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palatial scale. His taste was for very elaborate 18-course...

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dinners. Incredibly rich sauces.

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Everything supplemented with truffles

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and foie gras and

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very much that sort of high-end Escoffier-inspired French cuisine.

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And those things would have been reported in the newspapers?

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-Absolutely.

-So I'm assuming that this is really something that is

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putting Bertie, Prince of Wales, on the map.

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Bertie's rejuvenated Derby day dinners really did catch the spirit

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of the age. There was a whole rash of dishes named for racing -

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a la Jockey Club, a la race winner -

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and you find in 19th-century cookbooks, time and time again,

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illustrations of culinary kitsch,

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something unidentifiable covered with lurid green colouring with

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little jockey caps all the way round.

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And there was a real vogue for tiny little copper horseshoe moulds.

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What was in them might well be veal mousse or something in aspic.

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It didn't really matter. In your own aspirational way,

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you were embracing Bertie the Prince of Wales, and his own lavish

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dinners but, there, on your own dining table.

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As well as the Derby dinners,

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Edward VII would enjoy some equally rich indulgent and long lunches

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at Ascot.

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Edward VII wasn't only famous for his Jockey Club dinners but for his

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absolutely prodigious lunches

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at Ascot races. 14 courses - for lunch!

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14 courses!

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That lunch must have raced into dinner.

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When did they actually get to see the races?

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I can imagine they didn't have any time for the races.

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That was probably Edward's favourite day, lunch running into dinner.

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Now, you're going to do a dish

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-from Edward's luncheon party at Ascot races in 1908.

-Yup.

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From the famous royal chef, Gabriel Tschumi.

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-That's right.

-What is it?

-Well,

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this is one of the 14 courses that he would have served,

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and it's crab mousse with sauce remoulade.

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-Love crab.

-So, I'm going to make the crab mousse first.

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And for the crab mousse, I need to dissolve some gelatine in some fish stock. So, I'm just going to...

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You always dissolve your gelatine in a little bit of cold water.

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All you want to do is just dissolve that, you do not want to boil it.

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If you boil it, you kill the gelatine.

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-It stops working.

-Right.

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So, it doesn't take much heat, and then it's already just dissolved.

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-It's disappeared already.

-That's it, it's disappeared.

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Now, you need that to be fully chilled down before you would actually use

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it in your mousse.

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So, the first thing that I'm going to add in

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-is going to be the mayonnaise.

-Mm-hmm.

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So, in with the brown and white crab

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I'm going to put a bit of paprika

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and also now we're going to put in our chilled fish stock,

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which has the gelatine. You can see it starting to set there.

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Yes, it's thickening at this stage, isn't it?

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Is this a kind of modern dish or is it a dish very much of its time?

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There's lots of dishes that I would do now that were inspired by

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recipes like this.

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I think we like a slightly lighter type of cuisine.

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-But you've mixed it all together.

-I've mixed all that together

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and then the last thing I'm going to do is actually fold through my cream.

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-So, we're just going to add that in.

-Oh, goodness.

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So, we're just going to fold this in.

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At this particular luncheon, there were 80 guests.

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They must have been cooking all night!

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Incredible. For 80 guests, 14 courses.

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And everything was cooked in the royal kitchens, put into hampers,

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taken to the racecourse. Now, what are you doing here?

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So, I'm just going to fill these up to about maybe two-thirds full.

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-So, I'm just going to smooth these down.

-Mm-hmm.

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And then I'm going to need you to pop them into the fridge for me.

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They need to be refrigerated for an hour.

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-Right, to set?

-To set.

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But when you go there, you'll find that I've already got some

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-in there waiting for you.

-Oh, there's a relief.

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Thank you, chef.

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-There you go, Anna.

-Thanks for that, Michael.

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-Just pop it down there, thanks.

-Lovely and cold.

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Now I'm going to make a sauce remoulade.

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-What's remoulade?

-So, remoulade is, essentially, fancy mayonnaise.

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Is it a bit odd, mayonnaise, with this?

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It's a bit old-school.

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-So, you've got your mayonnaise here.

-Yeah.

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And I only need a small kind of...

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about a teaspoon amount of mustard.

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Just to give it a bit of bite?

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Yeah, a bit of bite and lovely acidity as well that you get out of

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Dijon mustard. Then I'm going to add the herbs, so,

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your chives and your tarragon.

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-I love tarragon.

-Perfectly chopped by myself.

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Actually, you did do it incredibly finely.

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And a bit of lemon zest on top,

0:16:230:16:26

and it just brings it all to life.

0:16:260:16:28

-Yeah.

-Give it a nice stir.

0:16:280:16:29

And you're just going to add a spoon of that into your dish.

0:16:290:16:33

And you're going to serve it on the side.

0:16:330:16:34

Or I'M going to serve it on the side.

0:16:340:16:36

I'm now just going to put the last stage of

0:16:360:16:39

the jelly on top of the crab.

0:16:390:16:41

-Right. Top it off.

-Top it off.

0:16:410:16:43

So, these are lovely and chilled.

0:16:440:16:48

And I'll just pour this on.

0:16:480:16:50

-Yeah.

-So, this is the fish stock with the gelatine that we used

0:16:500:16:54

earlier that also went inside the crab mousse.

0:16:540:16:56

And that's going to set pretty quickly, I would think.

0:16:560:16:59

But it turns out that, although this will set quickly,

0:16:590:17:02

I've already made one finished.

0:17:020:17:03

How useful!

0:17:030:17:05

-Oh, it does look neat, doesn't it?

-So, here we are.

0:17:050:17:08

So, we're just going to add our sauce remoulade here,

0:17:080:17:11

and then our melba toasts.

0:17:110:17:12

Is this the time we taste?

0:17:120:17:15

This is the time that we taste.

0:17:150:17:16

I love crab. There you go.

0:17:160:17:19

-OK, thank you.

-Righto, you first.

0:17:190:17:21

OK. I think I'll go for a bit of the crab and the Melba toast first.

0:17:210:17:25

I can hear the thundering of the racehorse hoofs but I'm more

0:17:250:17:29

interested in the crab.

0:17:290:17:31

There we go.

0:17:310:17:34

Mm, I love just smearing it.

0:17:340:17:36

But I'm not so sure about the mayonnaise.

0:17:370:17:39

-Let's try it with it.

-You're right, I'm going to try that next.

0:17:390:17:43

Yeah, I think it's...doubly rich.

0:17:430:17:45

A bit rich.

0:17:490:17:51

I don't know, old-school but not old hat.

0:17:510:17:53

SHE CHUCKLES

0:17:530:17:55

Crab mousse, as enjoyed by Edward VII at Ascot in 1908.

0:17:570:18:01

Let's hope his horse came in as well.

0:18:010:18:03

Nowadays, it's traditional for the Queen to serve tea at Ascot.

0:18:060:18:09

The only lunches served in the Royal Enclosure are at Epsom for

0:18:090:18:13

the Derby. One royal chef who's prepared many racing lunches is

0:18:130:18:17

Darren McGrady.

0:18:170:18:19

As a Buckingham Palace chef, Darren would also work at Windsor Castle,

0:18:220:18:25

where all the Royal lunches were prepared for Derby day at Epsom.

0:18:250:18:29

The Queen always serves a cold buffet, and, in the 1980s,

0:18:290:18:33

Darren recalls preparing some favourite fish dishes.

0:18:330:18:36

I'm making a Gleneagles pate, which is layers of smoked salmon,

0:18:370:18:42

smoked trout, and smoked mackerel.

0:18:420:18:44

I'm going to start off with a loaf tin.

0:18:440:18:47

We line the loaf tin with plastic wrap.

0:18:470:18:49

And then I start taking the salmon

0:18:490:18:51

and we're actually going to line the outside of the mould

0:18:510:18:53

with that salmon.

0:18:530:18:55

Once the tin is lined, the next step is preparing the fresh trout,

0:18:550:18:58

which will make up the first layer of the pate.

0:18:580:19:02

So, we're going to start off with the trout, and then, in there,

0:19:020:19:05

we're going to put in some butter. See how easy this is?

0:19:050:19:08

We're also going to take some lemon and squeeze it straight in.

0:19:080:19:11

Add some salt and pepper...

0:19:110:19:13

..and then a little fresh dill in there.

0:19:140:19:17

They go into the blender.

0:19:170:19:19

We are going to take this, and put this into the bottom of my mould.

0:19:220:19:28

So, spend a little time just making that nice and flat so that when you

0:19:280:19:32

cut into it, you'll see those beautiful layers.

0:19:320:19:35

And the way to do that is to chill each layer as you go along.

0:19:350:19:39

So this will go into the fridge for a little while,

0:19:390:19:42

ready for the next layer.

0:19:420:19:44

As the trout pate cools in the fridge,

0:19:440:19:46

Darren prepares the next layer by repeating the process,

0:19:460:19:49

this time using mackerel.

0:19:490:19:51

He removes the skin and then blends the fish with butter, lemon,

0:19:510:19:55

salt and pepper.

0:19:550:19:56

This one's had about an hour in the refrigerator and that's firmed up.

0:20:000:20:04

And then we can take this gorgeous smoked mackerel

0:20:040:20:08

and make that our next layer.

0:20:080:20:10

We always do it in that order because we want to keep a layer of

0:20:100:20:14

pink, a layer of white, and a layer of pink.

0:20:140:20:17

The mackerel is a much denser fish,

0:20:170:20:19

so we don't need to go back to the refrigerator with this one.

0:20:190:20:22

We can go straight on to that next level of adding the smoked salmon.

0:20:220:20:27

And this is a straightforward salmon, again some more butter in

0:20:270:20:31

there, some black pepper, a little lemon juice, and, finally...

0:20:310:20:35

..this time, we're just going to put some chives in there as well.

0:20:360:20:39

And then this next layer can go over the top.

0:20:460:20:49

And this is our last layer.

0:20:490:20:50

And we can take our salmon and roll that over the top.

0:20:520:20:56

So, fold that over, press it down slightly, and then,

0:20:560:20:59

with the plastic wrap that we have here...

0:20:590:21:01

..that can now go into the refrigerator

0:21:040:21:06

to set up the complete dish.

0:21:060:21:08

Once the completed pate has set in the fridge,

0:21:080:21:11

it's ready to be sliced and served.

0:21:110:21:14

Now, if we were sending this to Epsom for the Derby

0:21:140:21:17

for the Queen's lunch, we'd leave it wrapped, we'd pack it in ice,

0:21:170:21:22

and it would go to the races just like this.

0:21:220:21:24

And, once we'd got there, then we'd finish it with all the garnish.

0:21:240:21:27

Slicing it onto a beautiful bed of lettuce.

0:21:270:21:30

But I'm going to finish this one as if we're sending it right into

0:21:300:21:34

the royal dining room. Trim off that first piece

0:21:340:21:38

and, already, it's looking gorgeous.

0:21:380:21:39

Gleneagles pate. Beautiful layers, smoked salmon, smoked trout,

0:21:420:21:47

smoked mackerel.

0:21:470:21:49

Perfect for the royal table, and a day at the races.

0:21:490:21:51

At those race meetings, Edward VII loved entertaining guests.

0:21:540:21:58

80 or more at a time would often have served Eton mess as a dessert.

0:21:580:22:05

And in the royal kitchens at that time was a kitchen maid called

0:22:050:22:09

Mildred Nicholls, and she kept the recipes in this book here,

0:22:090:22:13

and she actually has got a recipe for Eton mess.

0:22:130:22:17

But, Anna, you're going to do something with a bit of a twist.

0:22:170:22:20

This is strawberries - the classic Eton mess.

0:22:200:22:22

You're going to do something a little bit different.

0:22:220:22:24

Yeah. I think everybody is used to strawberry Eton mess,

0:22:240:22:27

which is delicious, but today we're going to do a tropical twist,

0:22:270:22:29

with a bit of papaya, some mango, and some passion fruit.

0:22:290:22:33

And it's super easy,

0:22:330:22:34

it's as easy as using strawberries, but maybe a little bit more special.

0:22:340:22:38

So, the first thing we're going to start with will be the meringue,

0:22:380:22:41

because that's what's going to take the longest.

0:22:410:22:43

And you just need to add, I think it's like half a teaspoon,

0:22:430:22:47

of salt to your egg whites.

0:22:470:22:50

And a tablespoon, or a teaspoon, maybe, of vinegar.

0:22:500:22:53

Salt and vinegar sounds a bit...

0:22:530:22:56

It's a pudding, isn't it?

0:22:560:22:57

Yes, but it actually strengthens the egg whites,

0:22:570:22:59

-so that you can get these lovely, soft, strong peaks.

-Right.

0:22:590:23:03

So, we're going to whisk it up till its forming peaks before we add

0:23:030:23:08

the sugar, because it needs to have as much air as possible in it

0:23:080:23:11

to give it that lovely, crispy meringue feel.

0:23:110:23:15

So, I'm going to add this fairly slowly at a time,

0:23:160:23:20

-not all in one go.

-Is it caster sugar?

0:23:200:23:22

It is caster sugar, yeah.

0:23:220:23:24

I love the way it's called Eton mess.

0:23:240:23:26

-There's lots of stories about it, aren't there?

-There is, yeah.

0:23:260:23:28

There's that funny story where the headmistress, erm,

0:23:280:23:31

the cake was placed, or the dessert was placed, on her chair

0:23:310:23:34

and then she sat on it.

0:23:340:23:35

You could imagine the schoolgirls loved that, yeah.

0:23:350:23:38

Now, there's the last of our sugar gone in.

0:23:380:23:41

Ah, beautiful. But I think it has been quite traditional, hasn't it,

0:23:410:23:43

at the Eton-Harrow cricket matches?

0:23:430:23:45

You know, those two top public schools, when they have

0:23:450:23:47

an annual cricket match, I think Eton mess is traditional.

0:23:470:23:50

-Ooh, I say, it's really sticky.

-Pretty much done.

0:23:500:23:52

OK, now we're going to...

0:23:520:23:54

..spoon this onto our tray.

0:23:550:23:57

It's essentially a summer dish, obviously, using summer fruit.

0:23:580:24:02

Well, I think it can be any time of year, really,

0:24:020:24:04

especially since we're doing tropical fruit.

0:24:040:24:06

But, yeah, I think you could have it in the summer,

0:24:060:24:08

if it strawberries and raspberries.

0:24:080:24:11

You could have a roasted apple one, as well,

0:24:110:24:13

which would be quite delicious. Maybe put a bit of cinnamon

0:24:130:24:15

in your cream, which would be quite nice.

0:24:150:24:17

So, we're going to do two kind of...

0:24:170:24:19

Whopping meringues.

0:24:190:24:20

Two large meringues, yeah, so then we can break them up afterwards.

0:24:200:24:24

Just going to smooth it out to give it a nice, kind of, round shape.

0:24:240:24:27

It's still a favourite of the royal family, isn't it?

0:24:270:24:30

Yes, so I hear, yeah.

0:24:300:24:31

But I think it's a favourite in everybody's household.

0:24:310:24:33

Did you have Eton mess?

0:24:330:24:35

Yes, of course, but we had them with blackberries.

0:24:350:24:38

So, into the oven at 100 degrees for about an hour and 20 minutes or so,

0:24:380:24:42

until it's lovely and crispy.

0:24:420:24:43

OK, ma'am.

0:24:430:24:44

So, now I'm going to chop my fruit to go inside the mix.

0:24:450:24:49

I already have some papaya chopped,

0:24:490:24:52

and I'm going to go through some mango now.

0:24:520:24:54

And then cut open the passion fruit.

0:24:570:24:59

So, there's a large stone inside your mango,

0:24:590:25:01

which you want to be careful to cut around.

0:25:010:25:04

-Are you finished yet?

-I'm not.

0:25:040:25:05

Do you want to give me a hand, since I've got quite a bit to do?

0:25:050:25:07

Why don't you cut open some passion fruit for me?

0:25:070:25:10

OK. How do I slice this?

0:25:100:25:11

Oh, a masterclass in fruit cutting. Come on.

0:25:110:25:14

OK, OK.

0:25:140:25:16

Straight down the centre.

0:25:160:25:17

-OK. That was a bit tough, wasn't it?

-There, you can do that.

0:25:170:25:20

-Oh, my God, look at that. Isn't that beautiful?

-Mmm.

0:25:200:25:22

-Then scoop it out?

-It's so beautiful.

0:25:220:25:24

Like, you can get a lovely floral,

0:25:240:25:27

beautiful, perfumed smell off it. It's not just about the acidity.

0:25:270:25:30

-But how do you do mango as well?

-Watch and learn.

0:25:300:25:32

What do you want me to do with these? Scrape the middle out?

0:25:320:25:34

Scoop them out with a spoon. I'll give you a spoon here.

0:25:340:25:36

Just scoop them out and in with the papaya there.

0:25:360:25:39

OK, so you want roughly the same amount of papaya and mango, really,

0:25:390:25:43

-to go through this.

-I think I did that brilliantly.

0:25:430:25:45

You did. Like a professional.

0:25:450:25:47

-Shall I do it again?

-Yes, why not?

0:25:470:25:49

Maybe stick the tip of it in the centre.

0:25:490:25:52

All right.

0:25:520:25:55

So, I'm going to just add my mango. Now we want my papaya.

0:25:550:25:58

Actually, that works much better, doesn't it?

0:25:580:26:01

-There we go.

-Now, in there.

0:26:030:26:04

In we go.

0:26:040:26:06

So, I'm just going to start to break up the meringues.

0:26:080:26:11

You need them to be nice and crispy when they come out of the oven.

0:26:110:26:13

I don't know if you can hear that. That's quite nice.

0:26:130:26:15

-You were tapping it and it rattled.

-Yeah.

0:26:150:26:17

So, we're just going to break it now into the bowl.

0:26:170:26:20

-How big are the pieces?

-Quite large.

0:26:200:26:21

You want to feel that texture of the crispiness of your meringue.

0:26:210:26:25

And then we're going to fold through

0:26:250:26:27

with a couple of spoons of your cream.

0:26:270:26:29

Just go behind you there.

0:26:290:26:32

Looks like frogspawn, this stuff, doesn't it?

0:26:320:26:34

It does, actually!

0:26:340:26:35

-But it smells...

-Amazing, isn't it?

0:26:350:26:36

..absolutely divine.

0:26:360:26:38

-So floral.

-Really, really nice.

-It's really, really beautiful.

0:26:380:26:41

OK, so just gently fold your meringue through the cream.

0:26:410:26:43

You don't want to break it up any more.

0:26:430:26:44

-You don't want to really shatter it, do you?

-No, no.

0:26:440:26:46

And then we're just going to put a spoon of each

0:26:460:26:49

in whatever serving dish you're going to be using.

0:26:490:26:52

Mm-hm.

0:26:520:26:53

Oh, I can just feel the anticipation of wanting to eat this,

0:26:540:26:57

because I can hear the kind of gentle crisp of the meringue

0:26:570:26:59

being mixed with the cream.

0:26:590:27:01

-It feels lovely.

-It's the ultimate temptation.

0:27:010:27:03

Yeah, and it reminds me of being a kid, and this was the part

0:27:030:27:05

that you were always allowed help with, nothing else.

0:27:050:27:08

And scraping round the bowl and all that kind of stuff.

0:27:080:27:10

Now look at this. The colour of this is so beautiful.

0:27:100:27:13

-That's brilliant.

-The beautiful orange and yellows.

0:27:130:27:16

-A little...

-And you're just putting it on the top?

-Just on the top.

0:27:160:27:21

Now, of course, you could mix it through...

0:27:210:27:23

Is that because you haven't time? Would you mix it through?

0:27:230:27:25

You could mix it through if you want, but I think that by putting

0:27:250:27:28

it just on top, you get this glorious colour and, straightaway,

0:27:280:27:31

you get this lovely perfume smell off it.

0:27:310:27:33

And I suppose if the trick for the dish is to have the contrast

0:27:330:27:36

between the textures and the tastes,

0:27:360:27:38

-then having them different would be different.

-Yeah.

-OK.

0:27:380:27:41

-You might need a spoon.

-I think I might.

0:27:410:27:43

-You get stuck in first.

-No, come on, ladies first.

0:27:430:27:45

-You don't have to tell me twice!

-No, no, quite.

0:27:450:27:48

-Oh, you can just hear the crunch of the meringue...

-You can.

0:27:480:27:51

..and that's what I love so much.

0:27:510:27:52

You can make a real mess with it. Oh, mess!

0:27:530:27:55

Oh!

0:27:550:27:57

Mm!

0:27:570:27:58

-It's so delicious.

-Mm!

0:27:580:28:00

You could just imagine King Edward VII at Ascot, can't you?

0:28:000:28:04

-Mm.

-Celebrating his winners with Eton mess and champagne.

0:28:040:28:08

Oh, you're like a poet.

0:28:080:28:10

Perfect end to this programme.

0:28:100:28:12

See you next time.

0:28:120:28:13

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