Michael Buerk is joined by chef Anna Haugh to celebrate food created for royal jubilees, including a pudding recipe hidden in the archives for over a hundred years.
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The Royal family are steeped in tradition and, throughout history,
the Royal tables have showcased culinary excellence.
In celebration of royal food...
We know it's the Queen's recipe
because we've got it in her own hand.
..from the present and the past...
That is proper regal.
..we recreate old family favourites.
Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.
What a mess.
We sample Royal eating alfresco...
-THAT is what you want.
..and revisit the most extravagant times.
Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon, oysters, and turbot,
dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.
This is Royal Recipes.
Hello, I'm Michael Buerk, and welcome to Royal Recipes.
This is Audley End, one of Britain's finest stately homes,
built in the style of a royal palace and once owned by a king.
In the splendour of the gardens,
halls and kitchen of this grandest of country houses,
we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.
And it all starts here, with this gem,
a royal kitchen maid's cookbook -
the only surviving recipe book of its kind in the Royal archive.
This is an exact copy of the original,
which is kept at Windsor Castle.
Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls,
who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s.
And for the first time in over 100 years,
we'll be bringing these recipes back to life.
This time, we're cooking food served to celebrate a jubilee.
Queen Elizabeth II, Britain's longest reigning monarch,
knows more than most about how to put on a great show
for these most special of royal anniversaries.
Today in the Royal Recipes kitchen,
chef Anna Haugh tries some unusual 19th-century ingredients...
And now, our final ingredient, cockscomb.
-What, the bit off its head?
-Aren't they normally red?
..as she prepares Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee dish.
No, you don't like it!
Historian Polly Russell discovers how Windsor revived
the Royal Golden Jubilee ox roast.
I wrote to the Queen and then we received a letter back...
From Buckingham Palace?
..from Buckingham Palace.
And the Queen graciously agreeing to donating an ox for us.
Sprinkle 'em over.
And Paul Ainsworth gets creative with a British classic to honour
the Queen's historic reign.
And I hope you approve, ma'am.
In the kitchen wing of this stately home,
we start with the exquisite dishes
created for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee celebrations.
Hello, and here we are in the grand kitchen,
with top London chef Anna Haugh.
There is something special, isn't there,
about living in the reign of Britain's longest-serving monarch?
Oh, I love a good royal party!
Well, the Queen has had lots of parties
because she's had lots of jubilees.
She's had three jubilees, hasn't she?
There's Silver for 25, Gold for 50, and the Diamond for 60.
And this is the menu for her luncheon,
Diamond Jubilee luncheon, in 2012.
Just three courses, unlike the eight or nine
her great-grandfather would have had.
And you're going to do the middle one.
-The main course.
That's right. I'm going to do roast saddle of Welsh lamb with braised shoulder.
So, two cuts of lamb with Isle of Wight asparagus,
Jersey Royal potatoes... It sounds great. What do you do first?
OK. So, the first thing I have in my pan here is some chopped up celery,
onions, carrot, and a little sneaky star anise.
-So, I'm going to put a little bit more oil in here
and then I'm going to add my lamb shoulder.
And I think what I like so much about this dish
is that it's not just focusing on the prime cut,
it's also giving you the kind of secondary cuts as well.
Do you get more flavour out of the shoulder of lamb than you would...?
Ah, absolutely. Absolutely. There's a gelatine that's inside
your lamb shoulder that, when you cook that slowly,
you draw that out
and you get a much better consistency out of your sauce.
So I'm going to add tomato paste in here as well.
I'm going to give my rosemary a chop while I let that kind of caramelise up a little bit.
-So, rosemary and lamb.
I think everybody in the universe knows that these two go very well together.
Why is that, do you think?
I think it's because where the lambs would be jumping around...
And having the craic, there's the...
Rosemary is growing nearby.
And that they snack on the same herb that is obviously going to taste
very well with the meat.
This is amazing, isn't it,
because this is an absolute celebration,
-as a lot of these royal meals are, of Britishness?
You know, Welsh Cambrian Mountain lamb,
marinated Uist island salmon with Lyme Bay crab.
It's all a celebration of British,
whereas two, three generations ago, we were all pretending to be French!
Absolutely. Like, when I first was learning to be a cook,
everything was, you know, special because it was French.
Where now, I think we kind of look around what we have and it's just as
good as what the French have, you know?
So, I'm going to add my white wine in now...
And there's a lovely kind of acidity that you get from white wine.
And now we're going to put in our stock.
-And last but certainly not least...
Rosemary. So, I'm going to pop a lid on this...
-..and we'd cook that for about maybe two hours.
Let that kind of simmer away, like a light bubble, not a heavy boil.
And it should look like this.
Oh-ho-ho! Look at the steam coming out.
I'll get out of your way.
Our next stage is searing off our saddle of lamb.
So, this is the prime cut, OK?
If you go to your butcher and you speak to him nicely...
-He'll do this.
-He'll rack it up...
-..for you just nice, yeah.
So, I'm going to oil it and season it.
So, what's happening here is you've got the shoulder for the flavour...
-And you've got this for the texture?
You know, Everybody likes a kind of little bit of rare meat with...
You know, if you associate lamb and beef,
you think of that lovely kind of medium-rare kind of cuisson.
But the flavour that you get from the braised shoulder, it's like,
we're greedy, we want both.
So I'm going to put a little bit of oil in my pan.
-The key is when you're cooking is control.
Controlling your heat. You need a lovely, smoking hot pan.
So hot that when I'm at home, my dad does have a fire extinguisher
in the background, ready to go.
Oh, the sizzle!
So, you're trying to sear it. Why?
You want to get a lovely caramelised flavour off this and
particularly, I think lamb fat has got a very,
very good flavour when you get a good brown kind of colour on it.
And yeah, it's just going to enhance the whole flavour of the meat on
the inside. So, we get a lovely golden brown colour,
evenly, all around.
Takes roughly about maybe about five, ten minutes.
A little bit of patience.
And then you're going to pop it into the oven...
-..for me, Michael.
190 degrees, for about 20 minutes or so.
And when you go to the oven, will you grab one there?
I've already got it resting.
OK. I'll be back in two ticks.
Look at this little beauty.
So, this lamb has been resting for about ten minutes.
It's really important that when you cook a piece of meat, that roughly
about half the length of time it takes to cook, you rest it.
That's what us amateur eaters never do. Because we're too greedy.
OK, so, I think it's time to carve.
Oh, look at that!
-I love it.
Pink in the middle. And a bit of juice.
As you're cutting it, you can see it... Oh, yes.
Speaking of juice, maybe we might put a little bit of gravy with this.
What we serve this with is some beautiful British asparagus...
From the Isle of Wight, I think, on the original menu.
That's it. And we have our lovely braised shoulder.
It is two dishes in one, isn't it?
It is. It is. And I think it is really important
to kind of note that the idea of using the shoulder means
that more people get to eat the saddle,
because obviously, little lambs, they're not so big to share around.
-Fabulous. And just one little star anise.
This one little fella...
-Can really flavour it.
But it's the rosemary that's so lovely, isn't it?
-I love the saddle.
Look at that. The lovely, succulent fat around it.
And then the last thing that we're just going to add
is a little bit of sauce.
So, in here I've infused
a bit of mint in with reduced-down lamb stock...
You can't have lamb without mint.
And there's a little knob of butter in here as well.
Yeah, yeah. But not too rich.
Not too rich. But...
..enough so that you do feel this is a special meal.
And that's it. Finish it with a little bit of gravy.
There you go.
-That's your braised shoulder of lamb and rolled saddle.
Beautiful. There's your knife and fork.
Which piece are you going to go for first?
Oh, the top one.
-OK, you go.
-Here we go.
I'm going to try the saddle first, because that does look great.
With a bit of the asparagus.
I'm going to have the top end of the asparagus.
-Come on, Michael!
-All right, all right, all right.
-All right. Ooh!
Get in there for the braised shoulder because that's what I want.
That's lovely. It's so succulent...
..and the fat around it...
I love lamb actually.
Yeah, but it's fantastic lamb.
-Now the braised bit, this is where the flavour is.
Oh, I see what you mean.
The mint is lovely in it.
And what's great about it, I think, is that it's
a completely, totally British celebration in food
of our longest-reigning monarch.
A celebration of lamb, and a worthy way to celebrate a Diamond Jubilee.
The original dish was created for the Queen
by one of the Royal family's favourite chefs.
Michelin-starred Anton Mosimann
has cooked for four generations of royals.
It all started when the Queen Mother enjoyed his food
at London's Dorchester Hotel.
I came to the Dorchester in 1975.
It was one of THE best hotels.
I mean, just everybody who had a name, a reputation,
came in and out of the Dorchester.
It was like a film sometimes.
I was so excited to meet the Royal family and cook for them.
Princess Margaret, she came often,
and Her Majesty the Queen came for banquets and of course,
the Queen Mother.
It was just an incredible experience for me.
Anton was invited to cook at not one but two grand events
to celebrate the Queen's Diamond Jubilee.
As well as serving lamb, he prepared fish courses.
My first dish today is a steamed sea bass, with a sauce vierge.
This fish I cooked on different occasions,
including for the Royal family,
and has been very much appreciated and well received.
A bit of salt.
I love steaming because what you put in, that's what you get out.
A few leaves of basil.
And very quickly to cook.
It's almost cooked.
It's less than two minutes
and this wonderful, beautiful fish is actually cooked.
I make my sauce vierge, which is a reduction of sherry vinegar,
a few shallots, finely chopped.
Add a bit of honey, just as a contrast.
And once it's cooked down, then it's olive oil
and spring onions,
I use a bit of chives and of course tomatoes.
I have some spinach here,
with broccoli and a bit of colour, a few carrots.
Fish and spinach, broccoli, go very well together.
A few new potatoes.
And the dressing.
Out of the steam, on the plate and off it goes.
At the Jubilee Lunch at Westminster Hall, it was food like this.
We served almost 1,000 people.
Some of Anton's dishes have become
long-standing favourites with the Windsors,
passing from Queen Mother to daughter.
Recipes such as cheese and spinach souffle.
Her Majesty the Queen Mother, she loved her food,
was really into her food.
And when she came to the Dorchester for lunch, very often...
..she enjoyed it so much
and she went back to Clarence House
and asked her chef to write to me for the recipes.
And one of the dishes I remember was the cheese and spinach souffle.
He starts with a traditional roux sauce, made from butter,
flour and cold milk.
A bit of nutmeg.
Mix very carefully.
Smells already delicious.
Now to put my spinach...
..blanched first of all, then finely chopped
and mix that together with the cheese mixture.
Then, Anton cools the mix and adds egg yolks.
Now I'm going to fold the egg whites into the mix.
Folding very gentle because I want to keep the air bubbles
in the egg whites. That makes the souffle rising.
The mix goes into individual moulds and into the oven for eight minutes.
Anton serves it with a fromage frais, yoghurt and chive sauce.
So light, beautiful.
So, here we are.
But during the Jubilee year,
I had the pleasure of cooking this dish on one or two occasions.
It's light, nice sauce and people loved it.
Royal jubilees are few and far between and when they happen,
they are an excuse for a great celebration.
I've got the menu card for the banquet
for Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee at Buckingham Palace. Look at it!
-They're all in French, of course.
-Now, you are going to do one of these dishes?
Which one are you going to do?
Le Poulet a la Financiere.
Is that banker's chicken, or...?
No, it's actually a chicken stew.
A chicken stew!
You know, the French. They want a fancy name for things.
It is essentially a very delicious chicken stew.
So, I'm good start of this recipe in here
with butter, onion, and carrots,
and they are just sweating down nicely on a good high heat.
I'm then going to add my mushrooms.
That will take a couple of minutes to kind of sweat down
on a high heat.
A lot of kind of juice and water is going to come out of mushrooms,
so you need a bit of patience and a bit of time with that.
So, while that's cooking away,
I'm going to give the chicken heart and the livers a bit of a chop.
Now, they loved offal, didn't they?
Yeah, and I love offal. I don't understand...
What is it in the recent generations,
I suppose my generation and right down to yours,
that have seemed to have gone off things like liver and heart.
I remember having heart as a kid.
-I never get it now.
-I loved it.
Lamb's heart - my mum always prepared lamb's heart as a kid
and when I lived in Paris,
I remember calling my mother up saying,
what do you do with the lamb's heart? How can I make it?
You'd never just see it in the supermarket.
But from a chef's point of view, what does offal in a dish like this
-lend to a stew?
-Depth of flavour.
I mean, like, you look how small I'm chopping this up, like.
It's going to give a more complex, interesting notes
that are going to just be through your stew.
So, you just give them a good little chop up together there.
-Now, I'm going to pop them back on the plate.
Lovely, rich colour, aren't they?
Yeah, yeah. These are sweating down kind of nicely now.
They're coming along. I'm going to put a little bit of flour in there.
It's funny, thinking yourself back to that day
and Queen Victoria on the throne for 50 years.
She started, you know, that day having her breakfast
as a kind of picnic...
Completely different meal, picnic under the trees at Frogmore...
-..where her husband, Prince Albert, was buried.
-Near his grave.
I mean, it does, it breaks my heart.
-You want to believe that they were just madly in love.
And she seems to really have, you know, been heartbroken,
once he passed away.
Gosh, the smell is...
The wine is reducing down. Yes, it is.
And, now I'm going to add the chicken stock to it.
Oh, it's already looking rather good, isn't it?
All sorts of delights going into it now.
Next is going to be.. the olives.
-Ah, now, olives...
-I know. Just a little twist.
That's a little unusual, isn't it?
Yeah. Quite Mediterranean.
And then I'm going to put in the chicken heart and liver.
Now, I've already pre-seared the chicken legs and the chicken thighs
and breasts. I rolled them in a little bit of flour as well.
Again, as that cooks, that flour will help
kind of thicken up the sauce a bit more.
-So I'm going to pop them in now.
Yeah, so you cook them for about a half an hour with the lid off.
Once you're ready with your dumplings, you roll them.
We're going to pop them in and cook them for another further 20 minutes.
So you've got dumplings coming in now.
I've got dumplings to make now. And I love dumplings.
No stew is complete without dumplings.
Exactly. So, in here, these are slightly fancy dumplings
because they have some freshly chopped tarragon in them.
Also, I'm going to add one egg and some suet.
So, first of all, give it a little bit of a stir.
Add the suet. So, your egg is going to go into the centre there.
I added a pinch of salt into that as well.
Just give it a bit of a mix.
Right, so, I've got to get my hands stuck in here now.
-Now, if it is...
Sometimes the mix might just be a little bit dry.
You might need to add a small drop of water to it.
Just like a little small spoon of it,
just to make sure it all comes together.
Now, the egg in this makes it much richer...
-And also helps it kind of stay together.
You don't want your dumpling dissolving, do you?
No, and this will be cooked inside the stew for 20 minutes.
OK. Right, I think we're ready to go now.
-That is well kneaded.
And then all we're going to do is to shape them into nice kind of little dumplings.
Give them a little bit of a roll.
I can just imagine everybody sitting there in Buckingham Palace.
Extraordinary. Do you know, there were 50 kings and princes
in this banquet, from all over Europe?
Imagine cooking for royalty on that scale.
Like, the pressure must be immense.
So, now you're going to pop your dumplings in.
After your chicken has been cooking for about 30 minutes,
this is when you pop the dumplings in
and you must put the lid on to cook them. Another further 20 minutes.
And now our final ingredient, cockscomb.
-What, the bit off its head?
-Aren't they normally red?
Well, these have been cooked.
I've cooked these were two hours. Because they need a long braising.
A little bit like pigs' ears or something like that.
I'm not sure about this.
Look, they're kind of rubbery.
What do you think they're going to taste like?
I don't think they're going to taste of much.
I think the reason they probably put them into stews was to prove that
they actually came from the cockerel.
-And that sense of a stew.
We've got all the chicken in there,
including its...cockscomb. I'm not sure. There you go.
It's decoration, I think, isn't it?
There's something rather funny about you know, the crown, the cockscomb,
from the chicken, in front of 50 kings and princes at this banquet.
Can you think of that? All those royal houses,
all eating cockscombs!
All I can think about are actually the poor chefs in the kitchen cooking for those people.
-The pressure must have been immense.
Yeah. Half the royalty of Europe. More than half the royalty of Europe,
-and most of them are relatives, of course.
It's rather amusing. In her diary afterwards, she said,
"The King of Denmark took me in and Willie of Greece
"sat on my other side.
"The princes were all in uniform
"and the princesses were all beautifully dressed.
"Afterwards, we went into the ballroom, where my band played."
-That sounds like some party.
-Yeah, come on, what did they eat?
Let's have a try. Oh, yes.
Still not sure about those cockscombs.
I haven't cooked this for no reason at all.
Oh, I thought you could taste them.
Let me try to see if I can get a little bit of...
Oh, look at the juice in that.
I know, but it's the dumplings that I'm REALLY interested in.
-Oh, you and your dumplings.
-Yeah. I know. Oops!
What about the chicken? Come on, come on.
Mm, yeah. A piece of chicken in there...
..and Michael's three portions of cockscombs.
No, no, you don't! No, you don't.
OK, I'll be happy with one little bite.
There we go.
No, you don't like it!
Hmm. It tastes all right but it's one of those kind of
slippery type of things, you know?
What do you think?
I mean, it's going to be nothing on the dumpling, actually.
We're not too convinced about the cockscomb.
I don't think it adds much to the flavour.
But the rest...
You can really get the suet off the dumpling.
It's so delicious.
The tarragon in the dumpling... Mm!
I can do without the cockscomb, but the rest...
Chicken Financiere, banker's chicken, I'm going to call it.
-Well, it's a rich dish, isn't it?
For a Golden Jubilee.
'A hearty dish as well for a long- living and long-reigning queen.'
Celebrating a jubilee is often a chance
to indulge in a bit of nostalgia
and what better dish to serve than trifle?
It's got a long tradition in our national cuisine.
At his Padstow home in Cornwall, chef Paul Ainsworth has been
inspired by the jubilee spirit to get creative with a pudding
that's reigned supreme in Britain for generations.
For me, when you're celebrating, street party, jubilee,
great royal occasion, the go-to dish is the trifle.
I love trifle and in my trifle,
I'm going to have some beautiful British strawberries,
some beautiful British raspberries.
For our jelly, we're going to use Cornish sparkling wine.
We're going to add the whole bottle to the pan
and we're going to bring it...
..to the boil.
I've got this wonderful sparkling wine with just some nice perfume
with the thyme, little bit of vanilla,
some star anise and some sugar.
So here we are - the lovely pile of strawberries,
just going to pop those into the sparkling wine.
Now, I'm going to add my raspberries in there like that -
the soft fruits just lightly poaching.
The heat's off now. Very gently, pass off that fruit.
Let your fruit just rest nicely like that.
And what we want to do, we want to bring that back up to a simmer,
just very gently, drop our gelatine and as soon as it goes in there,
pull it off the heat and just keep stirring
until you see it just all dissolved. And there you have it.
You've just made a beautiful sparkling wine jelly.
Now is the exciting part.
We're going to build our trifle palace.
So, just take your bowl, I've had it on good authority
that in the royal household,
they like it in individual sundae glasses.
But I think this just makes a great centrepiece,
in the middle of the table, everyone getting stuck in.
So, just very gently, we're going to spoon our fruit in.
Nice and clean, so everyone can see those layers.
Now, I'm going to get my twist on this lovely royal recipe -
Cornish saffron cake.
The saffron works amazing with that soft, poached fruit.
Look at that yellow that's coming from the saffron.
It's an amazing alternative
to just those ordinary, boring sponge fingers.
Right, now, we're going to get the jelly.
Still liquid, it will start to set once it goes into the fridge.
Coming up just to the top of the level of the cake
and the beautiful soft fruit.
The trifle then sets in the fridge for two to three hours
while Paul makes a custard, using milk, vanilla and custard powder.
Once cooled, he adds it to the trifle.
Look at that. Set beautifully.
And what you want is about an inch thick.
Lovely. It just looks delicious already.
This is why I love using dishes like this as a centrepiece.
While the trifle goes back in the fridge,
Paul whips up some double cream with vanilla and icing sugar
to make the top layer.
Spooning it on.
Look at that.
Lovely. That is proper.
Palace of Trifle.
Going to pop out into the fridge and we're going to make some honeycomb.
And we're just going to boil glucose, sugar,
and honey on the stove. Now you'll hear the sound of the bubbles.
They're just clicking, clicking, clicking.
As the mixture starts to thicken, the bubbles will start to slow down
and you'll know that you're getting close.
In with your bicarb.
Just whisk in that bicarb and let it come up and let it come up.
And see the honeycomb coming up?
Fantastic. Let it rise, let it rise.
Now, pour onto your sheet.
And THAT is honeycomb.
Once the honeycomb has cooled and hardened,
Paul breaks it up and then it's time to decorate.
Get the little bits, sprinkle them over.
So you're covering all of that cream.
Get it all in there.
Now, if you squint, doesn't that look like the jewels in the crown?
In fact, that IS the crown.
Look at that. One more little indulgent treat.
Take your favourite chocolate bar and just peel it over the top.
A beautiful British dessert.
Ma'am, I hope you approve.
Katie Nicholl here has been a royal correspondent for a decade or more,
covering several generations of the Royal family
and what they've been up to.
How significant is a Jubilee, a diamond jubilee?
Well, there have only been two monarchs who have ever celebrated
a Diamond Jubilee. Of course, our monarch, and Queen Victoria.
So, very rare, very special occasions, and, I mean,
don't really have to think that far back to 2012,
but you have to think a long way back to 1897
when it was a very different type of celebration.
Queen Victoria made sure that everyone in the streets,
the very poorest, were still able to celebrate
and she did that by serving them soup or
having her courtiers serving them soup in the streets.
They ate jellied eels and whelks.
Well, we were doing something very different in 2012
but it was that sense bringing the community together
to celebrate the Jubilee.
We were having soggy sandwiches, I seem to remember.
Well, the Queen wasn't having soggy sandwiches, I'm sure.
When you are contrasting that Diamond Jubilee for Victoria in 1897
and the one we've only recently had,
what does it tell us about ourselves,
from what we ate and how the whole thing was staged?
Just how much tastes have changed.
I think if you took a peek inside that very luxury jubilee hamper that
those lucky enough to attend the garden party at Buckingham Palace
enjoyed, which, I have to say, was all taste-tested by the Queen,
I mean you had little pots of beautifully prepared crab
and smoked salmon and cucumber sandwiches and
beautiful products from the Royal Estates...
I mean, it was a very, very special hamper.
But I'm sure in 1897 those bowls of soup were much appreciated by
the people lucky enough to have them as well.
But I can definitely say that eels and whelks didn't feature in the 2012 hamper.
What about the royals themselves?
By the standards of Queen Victoria and more so her son, Edward VII,
the Queen's banquet must have been little more than an afternoon snack.
Absolutely. I think "modest" is the word.
And I think that really does sum up the Queen's taste when it comes to
royal recipes and all things culinary.
She likes very traditional fare.
She likes very simple food.
And she's very ahead of her time, really,
because we're only all starting to eat organic, or have been in the last few years.
But the Queen's been doing that for ever.
If she can have her lamb from the Sandringham Estate
or the Castle of May, that's where she'll have it from.
Nonetheless, on each occasion, a party to bring the country together.
Oh, absolutely. It's a moment for unity,
a time for celebration and for great festivities because, let's face it,
not many people get to enjoy a Diamond Jubilee.
The Diamond Jubilee certainly brought people out onto the streets
to celebrate in that uniquely British way.
The nation can't resist a street party.
In 1977, for the Queen's Silver Jubilee,
it was all about fancy dress, flag-waving, sandwiches, and squash.
Historian Dr Polly Russell is in Windsor,
a royal town with a strong tradition of celebrating jubilees.
To find out more about how fashions have changed,
she's heading to a street party hotspot.
I thought it was the perfect place
to come and meet some real street party devotees.
-Oh, this looks nice.
These Royal Windsor residents
haven't missed any of the Queen's jubilees.
Celebrating her Silver in 1977,
her Golden in 2002,
and then the Diamond in 2012.
So, here we are in the Alma pub on Springfield Road and I'm really
thrilled to be able to talk to you about the street parties
that you've all been involved with.
The first one I went to was the coronation.
You went to Victoria's!
The patriotic jollity that we recognise as street parties today
date back to the peace teas for children after the First World War
And were similar to those held for the Queen's coronation in 1953.
-It was definitely for children.
There was a table down the middle of the street for children.
And the adults served the children.
The menu was usually sandwiches with fish paste or jam.
Yes. That's it, yes, quite!
And then they had blancmange and jelly,
which was a great treat in 1950-whatever it was.
Do you remember a feeling of anticipation
before the street parties?
Oh, yes, it was exciting.
Yes, yes, yes, because after the war, I mean, you couldn't get
butter and you couldn't get very much to eat at all.
So jelly and blancmange was definitely, er,
to be looked forward to.
Two decades on, the enthusiasm for bunting and taking over the streets
had only grown. And communities everywhere were mucking in.
So in 1977, do you say that most of the food was cooked from scratch,
that people were just making it at home?
Or were they all nipping up?
Yeah, yeah, mainly made from scratch in '77.
You didn't have any bought stuff there.
You made your own pastries.
In '77, we didn't have the food that we've had today.
A royal wedding in 2011 and the upcoming Olympics
saw the enthusiasm for Diamond Jubilee street parties
reach patriotic fever pitch in 2012.
Councils in England and Wales received
almost 9,500 road closure applications.
The theme was nostalgic,
with one boozy addition.
If you go back in time, all the photos you'd see,
it's either orange squash...
Orange squash, yeah...
Or it's tea.
And of course that has also changed.
And I think that's quite nice, because people want to celebrate
and of course, these days, you celebrate
with champagne or prosecco or whatever.
Sales of prosecco skyrocketed in 2012.
It's quite nice when people are walking around
and you say, "Fancy a glass of wine?"
You know, or, "Do you fancy a prosecco?"
-I've never said no to that!
The modern street party is a sign of growing affluence.
Historically, it was up to the sovereign to make
their jubilee go with a swing by giving food to the poor.
In 1809, to commemorate George III's Golden Jubilee,
hundreds of oxen were roasted all over the country.
At Bachelors Acre in Windsor,
George's Queen, Charlotte, joined in the celebrations with her children.
She liked the beef so much she even came back for seconds.
And there's a permanent reminder of that event at the park.
Polly's meeting Windsor Council's Paul Roach
to find out how the ox roast was revived for our present queen.
Welcome to Bachelors Acre in Windsor.
Thank you. And what is this?
This is our obelisk,
commemorating two of the ox roasts that took place here.
It took a few months of planning,
then the consent of Her Majesty
to make it all happen.
-I wrote to the Queen and then we received a letter back...
On the 21st of May, 2012.
From Buckingham Palace.
From Buckingham Palace, acknowledging the fact
that we'd requested an ox
and the Queen graciously agreeing to donating an ox for us.
Fantastic. And it says here, "The Queen will be pleased to receive
"an update of the event, so would you be kind enough to write again?"
-Did you do that?
-Yes, we did.
Oh, I'm glad.
-So, we fed 1,200 people.
-All gathered in this area?
All gathered in Bachelors Acre.
The first slice was ceremonially cut by the Air Marshal, Ian McFadden,
Governor of the castle, which is also a tradition
and has been followed through.
What, they kind of cut the first slice?
The first slice. It was auctioned.
So how would an ox have been traditionally roasted?
In 2002, they dug a huge pit.
-In the Acre.
And then what they would do is just tonnes and tonnes of wood,
-light the wood and then roast the ox...
-On a huge spit?
..on a spit, which would take about sort of 22 to 30 hours.
And we had wonderful smells all that evening, which was great, so we were
serving from about 12 o'clock in the afternoon.
Amazing. But actually it still takes place here.
It's not that you wheel it in or anything.
It actually takes place here, just as it has.
-All cooked on site.
Buckingham Palace kitchen maid Mildred Nicholls
was too young to remember Victoria's Golden Jubilee.
The dishes created for that anniversary
lived on in her recipe book.
Mildred Nicholls was kitchen maid at Buckingham Palace in the early years
of the 1900s, and this recipe book - look at this, Anna -
this recipe book, it's the only one of its kind in the Royal archives.
Look at the writing.
Contains details of dishes at great events for three reigns,
like this one, look.
You can just about make it out, can't you?
It was a pudding that was served at the Golden Jubilee of
Queen Victoria, from some chef called Escoffier,
-whom even I have heard of.
-Yes, I'd imagine you'd heard of him.
He was one of the most famous chefs in the world.
Actually, it just occurred to me -
do you actually get the word "to scoff" from that?
I'd imagine he did a lot of scoffing in his time.
But actually he may have been a great chef,
but this Cerise Jubilee is actually a doddle, isn't it?
Well, it does look quite simple.
I think it's probably easy enough for YOU to make.
-Is that scoffing?
Now, what is it? Hang on.
We've got cherries, we've got kirsch and we've got ice cream.
-That's it, is it?
-Yeah. You just bring it up to the boil,
reduce it a little bit and then pour it over.
-Sling it on the top.
-And set light to it?
But today we're not going to flambe it.
We're just going to pour this over the top.
-Let's get rid of it.
-It does look good, though, doesn't it?
-It does look rather good.
-It does look good.
But it's not up to your standard. You can do better than that.
I think we can do something.
Let me take that away. What are YOU going to do?
OK, so, today I'm going to make chocolate delice,
and that was served at the current Queen's Diamond Jubilee.
-Right, so a delice could be any flavour you want.
It has a custard base where you add a puree or a chocolate to it
and then you fold in some whipped cream.
And that's a delice.
But this is a slightly different delice,
because I've added a base so it makes it easier to kind of portion
and serve. And there's cornflakes on it
to give it that kind of crunch and a bit of an extra texture.
Do you think the Queen had cornflakes?
I do not think the Queen had cornflakes,
but I think she missed out,
because they think it's a wonderful addition to a delice.
OK, let's do it.
So, I'm going to start first with the base.
So here I've already pureed up some Florentine biscuits,
kind of created this home-made praline.
And I'm going to take the cornflakes that I've toasted a little bit
in the oven to give them a little bit more depth of flavour.
I know that's a strange thing to say, that cornflakes have depth of flavour!
They're cornflakes, for goodness' sake!
But it does. It gives them a toastier flavour.
And then, on top, I'm just going to put the praline paste
and pulse it one or two times.
-You say "prawline".
-I say "praline".
I know. It's not your fault that you're pronouncing it wrong!
So I'm just going to pulse this.
OK, so you just continue to puree that for a few minutes and then you
just press it into the base of your chocolate delice.
But it is quite an interesting twist for a base that would work well with
a cheesecake, as well.
So I'm going to bring my cream up to boil to make the custard,
which will become the topping of the cake.
So I have some sugar here and some eggs
and I'm going to whisk them in together,
while I wait for the cream to boil.
Honestly, this isn't actually that hard.
I think it looks quite...
At the end, it is quite a special dessert, at the end,
but it is quite simple.
This is an adaptation of the original recipe,
so that it's a bit easier for people at home to make.
So the cream is now boiling, so I'm just going to, first of all,
pour a little bit on, just to kind of scald the mix.
Can I hold that for you?
Yes. You make a wonderful commis!
-You're my commis chef.
-Oh, right, OK.
-So I'm going to put this back in the pot...
..and thicken it.
You don't need to use another pot. You can just use the same pot again.
So we're just going to thicken this.
You've got to stir this the whole time.
OK, so now I'm just going to pour the custard onto the chocolate.
-Oh, this looks lovely, doesn't it?
-Yeah, it does.
But the main thing is that
you don't actually stir that for a few minutes.
-So you give it the opportunity for the chocolate to melt.
-Kind of keeps the heat in it.
Like I said, you leave that for just a minute or two and then you'll take
your whisk and just give it a stir and you'll see it all melt.
See that? All coming together, and it's lovely.
Into a wonderful gooey mess.
Yeah. And then you've got to let that chill for a little while,
because if you add your whipped cream now, it'll just melt.
And that'll be a hot mess.
OK, so I actually have a slightly cooled down mix that I made
earlier on, so I'm going to use that now.
-Fold the cream through. So this is it here.
-It looks nice, yeah?
-It does, doesn't it?
So if you just passed me the whipped cream there, please.
There we go. That's the white one, is it?
That it! You learn fast, don't you?
I know, I know, I'm a natural, actually.
Yes. Any time that you're folding in two ingredients,
you tend to take the lighter ingredient
and fold it into the heavier one,
so I take one spoon of it
and hopefully that will kind of help lighten it up a little bit.
Rather than the other way around?
Yeah, because otherwise it would just be lumpy.
Yeah. OK, so this is folded through quite nicely,
so all I'm going to do is put it inside the mould, flatten it out.
It looks absolutely delightful, doesn't it?
OK, so just...
This, you'll need to set in the fridge for about two hours or so,
or, really, as long as you can is better.
So, yeah, just flatten it down.
I mean, honestly, I just want to eat this.
You can smell the chocolate.
The better the chocolate you use, the...
Yeah, the happier the results.
-That's all nice and flat now.
-You did that brilliantly.
You made the most wonderful flat top to it.
You either have it or you don't, Michael!
So now I'm just going to dust some cocoa on top.
So just a nice little dusting of cocoa on top.
And then I'm just going to clean the kind of outside so that will be...
Yes, you've made a bit of a mess there, I've noticed.
So, you want to be able to put this into the fridge
for at least two hours, ideally overnight,
but I would never expect you to wait that long.
Ah, you know me too well! You have a plan.
Pop that over there and I'll get the one I made earlier.
OK, all right.
Oh, I like this.
My big moment.
Oh, look at that!
Don't look at it too long. Cut it.
Yes. So you need a nice hot knife to cut through your chocolate.
-This is the good bit. Ohh!
Oh, yes, I think that's probably about the right size.
It's like the Grand Canyon.
Here we go.
My word, look at that.
I'm going to have the... I like the bit at the end.
I don't think you like that, Michael, did you?
No, I hate it, hate it.
But I might go off...and scoff it.
Mm. The end of a perfect banquet, I imagine.
I can't get any of it in.
-And the end of the programme.
Mm! Till next time...
Michael Buerk is joined by top London chef Anna Haugh to celebrate food created for royal jubilees. Anna cooks some unusual 19th-century ingredients used in a royal dish created for Queen Victoria's golden jubilee. Anna then brings the recipe right up to date and prepares a delicious chocolate dessert served at the present Queen's diamond jubilee.Michael unearths a pudding recipe created for a royal jubilee which has been hidden in the Royal Archives for over a hundred years.
Historian Dr Polly Russell discovers how the town of Windsor persuaded the Queen to donate an entire ox so they could revive an ancient jubilee tradition.