Sunday Edition Saturday Kitchen Best Bites

Get ready for a feast of great food,

it's time for Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

Welcome to the show.

We have got an outstanding array of great food cooked

by some pretty amazing chefs for you today.

There are a few celebrities ready to eat, including

Katherine Jenkins and Phill Jupitus.

One of the biggest advocates of seasonal,

British food is Lawrence Keogh and he roasts partridge

and serves it with curly kale, bacon,

spiced apple butter, walnuts and marjoram.

And Tristan Welch bakes delicious salt marsh lamb in a salt crust.

The lamb is sealed in a crust with wild sea herbs with some potatoes.

He serves it with sea lettuce and a quick home-made jus.

We go back to the first time that Michael Caines came to visit

the Saturday Kitchen studio.

He served up a delicious creme brulee.

He makes his dessert from scratch

and serves it with marinated autumn fruits and a mint broth.

And Tom Parker-Bowles faced his food heaven or food hell.

Will he get his food heaven, tomatoes, with my tomato,

cheese and grainy mustard tart?

Or his dreaded food hell, goat's cheese with a goat's cheese

stuffed chicken breast with roasted veg and potatoes.

Find out what he gets to eat at the end of today's show.

But first, one of Plymouth's finest, James Tanner,

cooks a fish with three names.

-Good to have you back again.

-Thank you very much.

This dish, explain to us what it is, first of all.

OK, so this is Torbay sole with a spiced red-wine sauce,

chanterelle mushrooms, a bed of spinach and some creamed potato.

-This is Torbay sole.

-Take a look at this.

If you've never seen one of these before, have a look at that.

See what you think of that, quite an ugly looking thing, isn't it?

It's not the most attractive looking fish,

but the good thing about it is it's great, it's in season.

Tastes great and really good this time of year.

If you can start with the shallots,

let me run through the rest of the ingredients.

Obviously, yes, we've got the fish.

We've got the sole there, some butter, red wine,

some five spice, a bit of thyme, some fish stock,

sherry vinegar as well for this stock, really nice.

chanterelle mushrooms, King Edward potatoes,

nice and fluffy for the mash. Bit of spinach.

You're going to start the shallots,

we need to saute them off then we're going to add the five spice.

I'm going to prep the fish.

And I'm going to talk about the fish a little bit, as well.

Believe it or not, Torbay sole is a fish with three names.

Because some suppliers call it megrim and other people call it witch sole.

Years ago, consumers weren't too impressed with the name "witch".

So, they changed it to Torbay because obviously you can

get this in abundance round the West Country.

Either way you look at, whatever name you give it, it's really good.

It's a sustainable fish, it's great,

there's plentiful stocks around the UK waters.

It cooks very, very quickly.

It sounds weird for me to say this, it's not got a massive,

fishy flavour, hence why

I'm going to get away with putting a spiced sauce with it.

-Hence why you got away with bringing it on the plane, as well.

-Yeah.

That's a first on me. I've vacuum-packed them.

I've got a vacuum packer at work. I vacuum-packed them up.

Put them on some ice cubes. Rocked up at the airport.

"Anything to declare, sir?" "No, not really."

Apart from three fish.

Anyway, I'm just going to whip the fillets off.

I'm doing enough for one portion.

Your fishmonger can do this,

but if you want to give it a bash at home, a large, flexible knife.

-James, can you put that in the sink for me?

-Yes.

Two ways to get the skin off.

First you get your knife...

Then you either use the knife,

obviously the blade of the knife, and give it a little wiggle,

or you get the fish fillet,

put it in and drag,

literally rip the skin straight off.

It doesn't take very long to cook at all.

No, it doesn't. All we're going to do is take off

the belly fat, trim it up.

Give me two nice big fillets. Off that goes there.

Just trim off the tail.

-You're not going to cook that yet?

-Not at all.

There's a sink there if you want to wash your hands.

I will do in a minute.

We've got the shallots in there, can you add the five spice,

the bay and the peppercorns, please?

I'm going to wash my hands quickly.

-Five spice, bay and peppercorns. Now, five spice.

-Yes.

-Do you make your own or buy it?

-I buy it.

We've got cloves, cinnamon, ginger, in there - fennel, as well.

-And, um...

-One other.

-The other one as well.

-Nutmeg.

-Nutmeg, there you go.

Now, that's sweating down. I'm going to add a bit of sherry vinegar.

In that goes and I want it to go sticky,

I want it to catch the flavour of the different spices.

The reason why we're cooking it out is we want the aroma

to really stand through on this.

Really give you a good palate.

Paddy, you're looking at me going, "yeah, man."

I know what you're saying. I'm waiting for you to do that mash.

I want to know how to do good, nice...

-I always have lumps in mine.

-You need one of these.

-You need one of these.

-What's that?

-Potato ricer.

-Whoa!

-Are you excited?

-Welcome to London!

King Edward potatoes, nice and fluffy.

Where do I get one of them? Can you get them from the supermarket?

Nowadays you can get them from any kind of supermarket.

-That is brilliant, that.

-There you go.

While James is ricing the spuds, I'm just going to season the fish,

seasoning both sides. I'm going to cook it presentation side down.

So, not the skin side. Here, hot pan, olive oil.

-Here, Paddy, take it home.

-Can I...? What a gentleman!

Get the fish, we're going to lay the fish away

-from ourselves into the pan.

-Fish goes in.

Like you said before, lay it away from yourself,

it won't splash back up.

We'll get rid of this lot. Regarding that sauce,

notice that everything is basically almost evaporated,

in with a bit of red wine.

-Happy with that?

-You could have give it a wash.

I'm not, I'm not... I don't want to seem ungrateful.

-Don't worry, I'll wash it.

-Thank you. You know, play the game, James.

Carry on, James, don't worry.

Right, so, we've deglazed it with the vinegar, remember.

In with the red wine, look at it all bubble up.

In with some fresh thyme, lovely pungent herb.

-I'm listening, don't worry.

-I know. It's all right.

I've got a bit of lemon we'll finish the fish with

and the mushrooms in a minute.

As this bubbles up and goes lovely and sticky,

we're just going to add a bit of fish stock. In with the fish stock.

As you can see, this is reduced fish stock, it's got a great flavour.

We're just going to leave this boiling up, basically.

The idea is we pass it off

and give it a nice gloss by adding some butter at the end.

Get that cranked up on a high heat. Regards to the fish, check this out.

You see how it's starting to go opaque round the outside.

-Fish cooks so quickly.

-Particularly sole, flat fish like this.

You don't want to overcook them at all.

It's minutes. Here we've got some chanterelle mushrooms.

These have just been brushed off, been cleaned.

You don't want any grit.

The idea is the mushrooms go into the pan with the fish.

At this point, notice I'm not shaking the pan.

We're just going to use a fish slice,

or you can use a palette knife - whatever, really, if you're at home.

-We're just going to turn that fish over, OK.

-Thank you very much.

-Very delicate.

-Thank you very much.

-Hey, eBay!

-LAUGHTER

Can you use chicken stock?

You could indeed, Patrick. Chicken, beef or veal.

In fact, if I had more time, I would do a twist on this recipe -

we do at the restaurant - I actually do braised oxtail with it.

I know it sounds weird with fish, but it works really, really well.

It's a southern thing.

NORTHERN ACCENT: Loads of butter and cream.

It sounds like a bit of a southern attack today, doesn't it?

A bit outnumbered here.

Over to the sauce, I'm not touching it or anything else,

I'm letting it reduce down. At this stage it's...

I know you're not touching it, cos I'm doing everything.

A bit of mash and he's freaking out. Look.

Now, over here we are just going to pass off the sauce.

Without getting any of the shallots in it.

Now put that back onto the edge of the heat.

Get rid of the pan.

In with a knob of butter, this is optional, you don't have to do this.

If you're cautious of fat and stuff.

I know James won't be or the other northern guy over there.

What is it today? I thought we were friends. Lads!

Use the heat on the pan, OK.

Use the heat of the pan and that will add a lovely gloss.

-We'll stick together, don't worry.

-Over here, lemon juice.

Finish your mushrooms with lemon juice, really nice.

James, you sort out my spinach. Dry pan, bit of butter.

Spinach goes in there, here's the mash.

-I'm not finished with the mash.

-Haven't you?

-No.

-I haven't seasoned it yet.

-I'll stand here and watch.

How are you doing anyway, all right? You cool?

-Not finished that yet. What's that?

-Can I just make a comment?

I'm just looking at how perfect the fish fillets look in your pan.

Is it imperative to take the skin off,

because that's where everything goes wrong.

The thing is we're cooking it very, very quickly.

The pan's very hot, literally, I'm taking it off the heat now.

You wouldn't want to eat that skin and you wouldn't want that

on a plate to peel off or anything like that.

Literally, cook it quickly, flash fry it both sides,

in with the mushrooms, you've got the lemon juice as well.

It's really as simple as that.

Fish takes minutes and a lot of people freak out

with regards to fish, when really it's one

of the simplest elements of cooking there is.

-You've just dried that spinach off before.

-I did.

I just got off the excess fat and oil.

Here we just scatter the mushrooms.

And even with the mushrooms, I've just wilted them.

I don't want them overcooked. I want them to retain a bite,

and more importantly, the nuttiness which is in the flavour

-of the mushrooms.

-And the sauce, just over the top?

Yes, we just gloss this up, make sure the butter is all mixed in.

And don't overdo it, let the flavours speak for themselves.

And there you have it, that is sauteed Torbay sole,

red wine spiced sauce, creamed potato and chanterelle mushrooms.

Easy as that.

Because it's a Southerner who made it, there you go.

-A little bit of mashed potato on the side.

-You're cheeky, you're cheeky!

£7.50 they charge for that, Patrick - I mean, come on!

-There you go - oh. Dive into that.

-Look at this. Now, then...

PADDY LAUGHS

-Tell us what you think.

-Oh, man. Look at that.

Literally very, very quick to cook that fish.

It's off the bone, there's no skin - flash fry it.

Literally a minute, both sides,

Even now, it's still cooking. It's just finishing off.

You were looking forward to trying that.

So much nicer than that Kiev.

LAUGHTER

Now, then...

It is, literally, the creaminess of the mash, everything else -

works really nicely.

This time of year, the woodiness of the mushrooms,

the creaminess, like you said, but the spice,

you can get away with it on this fish.

It really complements it well, especially in the colder months.

-You can smell that five spice.

-Definitely, yeah.

-That mash...

-Yeah, happy with that?

-Oh, it's delicious.

I've never seen anybody get so excited about a potato ricer before.

Coming up, I'll be making a blackberry and pear crumble

for opera star Katherine Jenkins

after Rick Stein samples the delights of Puglia

as part of his Mediterranean Escape.

Today, sea urchins are on the menu. They're not for me.

After a couple of lovely months

travelling through those leafy green tunnels of south west France,

exploring great food along the way,

I finally reach the Mediterranean on one of those silky, pink mornings

where the sky and the sea become one.

I realised then that I wanted my journey to continue,

to explore the food of this great sea.

So I exchanged one boat for another - not quite as intimate -

that went from Marseille to Corsica.

I took Paul Theroux's Pillars of Hercules,

his travels around the Med, and I found it inspiring.

Like him, I arrived in Bastia, the old capital,

and discovered great mountain dishes, good charcuterie

and wonderful sheep's cheeses.

Then I crossed that choppy little strait

that separates Corsica and Sardinia.

This is where pecorino is king, suckling pig and fish

and lots more fish.

In fact, Sardinia's softer

and I think this view epitomises

the very essence of the Mediterranean.

From there, I caught an overnight ferry

to the largest island, Sicily.

And now, it was Italy, big-time -

fabulous markets, full of colour and inspiration

and lovely pasta.

And big, fragrant lemons, of which the writer DH Lawrence,

a great observer on the Italian way of life,

said "Lemon trees, like Italians, seem to be happiest

"when they're touching each other."

This is Taormina on the north-east coast.

It's a pretty big resort now, but Lawrence loved it here,

in self-exile.

It was a magnet for the English aristocracy

wanting to live the Mediterranean dream,

and this is where he wrote Sea And Sardinia.

Lawrence lived here with that view -

well, you can't see Etna particularly well today, cos it's rather hazy,

but I've been here before, at night,

and you see the glow in the distance.

And it's quite threatening, quite ominous,

and I think anyone who lives from Taormina right down to Catania

has the same feeling of living in the shadow of the volcano.

And it erupts quite frequently -

indeed, I'm told it's about to do so again.

And there's a very good piece in the book, which says as follows -

"How many men, how many races, has Etna put to flight?

"It was she who broke the quick of the Greek soul,

"and after the Greeks, she gave the Romans, the Normans,

"the Arabs, the Spaniards, the French, the Italians -

"even the English -

"she gave them all their inspired hour

"and broke their souls."

Lawrence also noted there was something

that people who live under the shadow of volcanoes have in common,

and that is they "never leave off being amorously friendly

"with almost everybody,

"emitting a relentless physical familiarity

"that is quite bewildering."

The Mediterranean has got so much we could learn from.

It makes me slightly sad, really,

because what I love about the Mediterranean

is the fresh produce - in particular, the markets.

I mean, I was in a market in Catania the other day,

and I was just thinking...

The director David asked me to film yet again in a fish market.

I was thinking, "What possibly could I say

"that I haven't said 25 times before,

"in all the fish programmes I've made?"

He just said, "Wait till we get there,"

and of course, when we got there,

it was just...the whole Italian sense of theatre, sense of occasion,

the way they lay everything out,

the incredible artistry of everything they do.

I just think these are the most wonderful colour.

I remember my mother had a belt like that in the '50s.

It looks like a fashion belt.

They're called spatula, in Italian,

but we call them ribbon fish or scabbardfish.

They're very good eating.

There's an excellent dish that they do around here

with red onions, done sweet and sour,

with a bit of vinegar and a bit of sugar

and a bit of salt and capers.

And these are just rolled in flour and shallow fried in olive oil.

It is yummy.

There's some limpets over there - I've just got to ask them

"What do you do with limpets?"

I was thinking, there's so much going on,

there's so many interesting things,

things I've never seen before - well, I'm in heaven.

All you do is just use one shell to open another.

Well - they're going on our platter of fruits de mer, I must say.

They're...chewy, of course, but they've got a lovely flavour.

I mean, a slightly oyster-like flavour.

I just...um...well.

Sorry - I'm a bit busy eating them, at the moment!

Sensational.

But I've got no problem with these.

They're called ricci here, or sea urchins.

Absolutely delicious.

Lovely on their own - don't need to put any lemon juice with them,

they're perfect as they are.

This is the bit you eat, these little orange bits.

I know it's only a morsel, but seriously,

it encapsulates all the fresh flavours of the sea.

You can taste seaweed in there

and ozone and just...the smell of the sea.

They are a real gourmet's delight, I must say.

If you've never tried them, you must.

Don't go for the tinned ones, though - waste of time.

Something I've been thinking all through my Mediterranean trip so far,

as it's reached its culmination here in Catania market -

I just think food is so important to us.

It is the most important thing we do. Why not enjoy it?

When you compare...

I've said this before, but this is like a sort of opera -

all the gesticulation, the singing...

If you ever felt low and down,

come to a market somewhere like Catania.

You'll be up again, you'll be happy, you'll be flying.

And when I think, back home,

those fluorescent-lit aisles of food -

what's that all about?

This is what it's all about.

HE SHOUTS IN ITALIAN

A friend asked me the other day what was special about Puglian food,

and the first thing that came to mind was ricci, sea urchins.

When I think of Puglia, I think of ricci.

I think of, particularly, later on today,

a lovely plate of pasta with ricci.

Because there's not a lot in a ricci,

but when you combine it with some pasta, some garlic,

some olive oil, maybe a bit of parsley,

you get that real taste of the sea.

They take about 18 months to grow to this size,

and around here, they were so plentiful

that conservation and over-fishing never crossed the fishermen's minds.

But because they're a tremendous delicacy,

the numbers are getting fewer and for the first time,

the fishermen are starting to think about what could be done

to ensure the ricci remains plentiful.

Most people who'll come to eat these today will simply have them raw

with a bit of bread and a glass of wine.

You only eat the orange roes, but they're lovely.

They say it's an acquired taste - I acquired mine nearly 30 years ago.

This is one of my top-five dishes from the Med,

and it's cooked here by Rosa Martalotta.

SHE SPEAKS IN ITALIAN

As you can gather, she likes it very much.

So there's lots of olive oil, a humongous amount of garlic,

and lots of sea urchin roes -

I'd say about 50 of them for one portion.

Then a splash of wine and a handful of chopped parsley,

and let it warm.

It's cooked enough at this stage. Then in with the pasta.

And in this part of the world, it doesn't take too long.

Cinque, spaghetto tosto...

Cinque minuti - five minutes.

-Tosto?

-Tosto, duro...

And she says it has to be "tosto".

I'm not sure what she means by "tosto",

but I think...I think I get the general...

'I think she means it has to be fairly hard.'

Well, like all good Italian cooks, the pasta goes into the saute pan

so that it gets completely covered

in all those wonderful flavours of the sea, garlic and oil.

-OK - vai, mangiare.

-Mangiare...

Mmm!

E duro, duro.

-It is.

-Si!

-I mean, when the Italians talk about "al dente"...

Al dente, al dente.

Spaghetto si mange al dente.

..they really mean it.

I mean, the pasta in here is almost hard,

and you couldn't serve it back home like that,

people wouldn't go for it. But it's lovely.

It's got this lovely taste. Everything in it...

I doubt if anything that's in here

was grown more than two or three miles away from this spot.

I think that's what's just so special about Italian food - it is so simple.

It's just what's around, what's available,

and of course, it has a sort of...

Well, for want of a better word, a sort of truth about it

which just makes it so, so wonderful.

You've got to arrive on the stroke of 12 to get a seat here.

I was really surprised to see

that most of the people eating these were young -

probably students from the towns nearby.

I expected grizzled old fishermen, puffing fags

and knocking back grappa.

I think the popularity of seafood in Puglia, like this grilled octopus,

with the young is because they grew up on it.

They all seem to respect it for what it is.

I can't imagine any of us could have gone past this

without buying a kilo or two of fresh peas,

harvested straight from the fields.

-Due kilo.

-Due?

-Due. Si.

I'm very happy about this,

I've just noticed lots of these guys on the roads as we were driving up

and I was thinking, "I've got to have some",

cos last night, I was in a restaurant in Ostuni

and we had a load of antipasti

and they just brought out a big bowl of peas in the pod.

And I was sort of thinking, "Imagine if I did that in England."

People would think I'd gone bonkers.

But it was such a perfect thing -

it's the thing I really remember about the meal,

because they were so fresh, the first peas of the season.

Grazie.

I can remember lots of expeditions with my children to pick your own,

intending to stock the freezer with beans and peas,

or make jam with strawberries and raspberries,

but none of it got further than the car.

Childhood memories - it doesn't get any better than this.

But back in Padstow, what to do with a bag full of new season's peas?

It's such a pleasure to see

the first peas and broad beans of the season.

It's a bit like hearing the cuckoo for the first time.

I was just reminded of a funny story Keith Floyd once told me.

He had a restaurant in the south of France

and he said it was just so exciting

when the fresh flageolets arrived for the season

and for the first two or three days,

you were eating them with great enthusiasm.

And after about two weeks, you'd say "No, thanks. No, thanks."

This is peas braised with onions and Parma ham.

It's the sort of thing you only want to cook

when the peas are at their tippy top.

Start by searing the onions in some olive oil - very hot oil,

so they colour up quickly.

Add a small amount of water and cover them

so they are left to stew and soften.

Cut the ham into small chunks -

"Cubetti", as they say in Italia.

They'll end up looking like little jewels in a sea of green.

And this is really good bistro food, I think.

With a glass or two of chilled white wine and some crusty bread,

it would make a memorable lunch.

Then some roughly chopped garlic - two or three cloves is quite enough.

And finally, at last, in with the peas.

They won't take long to cook. And you don't want mushy peas.

Just need to add a little bit of water,

cos it's just a tad dry -

needs to stew down in that water or go into the olive oil,

make a nice little emulsion.

And now some seasoning - I'll just fill this dish.

I'm on a bit of a roll.

This is the sort of thing people love.

I mean, similar dishes to this, you can get in Spain -

that's pea and Serrano ham -

and in France, with Bayonne ham, in Italy, with Parma ham.

And of course, not forgetting our own pea and ham soup.

It's a great combination.

And finally, a little - not too much - salt.

Not too much, otherwise the salt police

will be onto me again.

Serve in a warm bowl with lots of flat leaf parsley stirred in.

There's an argument going on in Italy at the moment -

some trendy chefs are refusing to put garlic in anything,

and the old brigade are outraged, as indeed am I.

This wouldn't be half as good without it.

They've got to be joking.

What? No garlic? I don't believe it.

As long as they don't ban butter, I don't mind.

Great stuff from Rick, as always.

There's really nothing like eating things

that have just come into season, and like the peas in Rick's film,

there's one ingredient that's best right now - blackberries.

Not only do they taste absolutely brilliant...they're free!

In fact, you can get them on hedgerows all over the place -

absolutely delicious.

I thought I'd do you a lovely pear and blackberry crumble,

-cos I know that you're a massive fan of crumbles.

-I am, yeah.

Basically, what I'll do first of all is poach the pears in some sugar,

and a little bit of lemon, to stop them going brown,

but I'm going to poach them whole first.

Rather than do that, if you're using apples and blackberries,

what you can do

is actually just put them in raw. But what I'm going to do

is slice these cos I want to layer it.

Now... singing... It's been in your blood, hasn't it?

-SHE LAUGHS

-The choir and everything...

your mother had quite an integral part of your early

upbringing, didn't she?

-Well, my mum taught me the first ever song I performed.

-Right.

When I was four.

And she taught me quite an embarrassing little song,

it's called Going Down The Garden To Eat Worms!

That was it?

LAUGHTER And the audience laughed cos it was quite comical and

-that's where it all started.

-But who spotted the talent when

you were young? Was it your parents that just spotted it and then sort of...?

I always wanted to sing.

It didn't enter my head as to whether I had a voice or not,

I just loved singing and...

My sister wanted to sing and she's tone deaf.

It was just, one of those things. Was it...

cos your father helped you out a lot when you were a kid?

Cos my mam went back to work and my dad took early retirement

so he was the house husband and drove us

round to all the singing lessons and piano lessons and

things like that so I spent a lot of time with him and

they were really supportive and I used to be a teacher so I know

how pushy parents can be and I look back and think how lucky I was,

cos they just quietly supported me.

Cos it wasn't straight from there, you did a bit of everything

just to make ends meet. A bit of modelling...

-what was this... London Eye, was it?

-Yeah!

-What's this?

I was a tour guide on the Eye.

LAUGHTER On the London Eye!

Round and round and round!

How did you get your big break?

That's what I want to know. How did...

Your...big break was the six-album deal, but was it

just literally somebody spotted you?

I made a demo with a friend while I was in the

last year of the Royal Academy and erm, the demo got passed to

a friend of a friend who knew somebody at Universal and

they invited me to go in and meet with them and after having

a chat with them, they wanted me to go and sing live, so

we did a little showcase and I sang to four record company

-executives who looked really bored!

-Right.

-And they said,

"Thanks, we'll let you know,"

and I went home thinking I'd totally blown it,

but they called me within an hour to say they'd like to offer me

-a six-album deal. So, I cried all afternoon.

-Wow!

-As you do! As you do!

-Cried?!

The album you've just released, is that the last part of the deal?

-Is that...?

-Yeah, it is the sixth album, erm,

and it's sacred arias, so I thought it was quite nice to go back to

the beginning and I learnt to sing in my local church choir.

So, I think whether you're religious or not, there's so much lovely

music that everyone knows like Ave Maria, Pie Jesu, Abide With Me,

so, erm, it's been a nice album to make.

It's been an amazing... Your career, in terms of album sales. Incredible.

Was it...your top three...

you had...? The only person ever to have the top three

in the classical charts, first, second and third in albums?

-Yeah.

-I mean...

You must pinch yourself, it must be...

I didn't think the first album would even go to number one

so I've never had any expectation of how I thought it would do

and it's just...

it is quite overwhelming sometimes, but I'm just grateful

for everyone's support.

And you're giving some of that support back

-because you're quite involved in the troops?

-Yes.

I'm a trustee of the British Forces' Foundation, so

I've been to Iraq twice and Afghanistan, Kosovo,

Northern Ireland,

Cyprus, erm, and we haven't got any trips planned at the moment,

but still very much involved with working out where we are going to

-go next.

-Yeah, cos you're...

Just read your little biog... It's not so little, it's huge...

and for your age as well, cos you've just done a tour?

-A fantastic tour.

-With Darcey.

-Darcey Bussell, this is.

And you're bringing out...

-it's coming out on DVD?

-Yeah, we created this show where we

sort of paid tribute to all the divas

who've inspired us. So, erm, there are some obvious ones, like, for me,

Maria Callas and Darcey, the classical ballerinas, but we are also

inspired by the golden age of Hollywood, so we pay tribute to

people like Doris Day, Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn...

Fred Astaire, Ginger Rogers and we didn't imagine the show was

going to do so well, so we played two nights as part of the tour at the O2

Arena and one of them was filmed for DVD,

so that's coming out in November.

So, with the new album and then...

you're on tour literally...

-You finish promoting the album the end of November.

-Yeah.

And then December, you start this sort of UK tour again?

Yeah. Before that I've got my first performance in Brazil.

Going to Dubai and to LA for a little bit and then I've got my

first concert in Korea with Placido Domingo before I go...

It makes us lot look a bunch of Muppets! Doesn't it?

And, presently, I've no idea what you're cooking, James.

No, anyway...

-LAUGHTER

-Don't worry!

As my mother said - "They'll all find it on Teletext, lad."

That's all we need to worry about.

It's all on there, it's on the website.

-It's a crumble, you know how I make it.

-LAUGHTER

Whack it in the oven, 15...

I made it all in the meantime. And then you throw it in the oven.

15 minutes. All I've done is actually layered it up. Thanks for that, John.

LAUGHTER

And then I've layered it all up and the idea is...

We get a spoon.

SHE CHUCKLES

And pile this out...

Wow.

If you weren't here, I would then go to the fridge

and get some cream and pour it over the top.

-But the producer tells me I'm not allowed.

-No, I can't stand cream.

So, I'm going to get a bowl and eat a bit for myself.

-While you dive in.

-Thank you.

-Tell us what you think of that one.

-Looks delicious.

-Tell me what you think...

It will be very, very hot, so be careful.

-Mmm.

-Apples and pears, yum.

-Delicious?

-Mm.

-Just a small amount of cream over my crumble,

look at that...

-LAUGHTER

-Lovely. What do you think?

-LAUGHTER

-Good?

-Absolutely gorgeous.

All the best, good luck with the tour and the album.

-Thank you very much.

-Fantastic, Katherine Jenkins.

I think she liked it. If you'd like to try making that crumble or

fancy having a go at any of the recipes on today's show,

then they are just a click away at bbc.co.uk/recipes.

We're not live today, so instead, we're looking back at some of

the delicious cooking from the Saturday Kitchen back catalogue.

And now it's time to rewind the clocks

when Lawrence Keogh was in charge of Roast above Borough Market.

Always striving to serve seasonal British food, he's got

game on the menu today.

-Now, it's got to be British.

-Yes, mate, always.

So, what are we cooking? Something very seasonal at the moment.

-Yeah, red-leg partridge.

-Yup.

-I'm going to roast that.

We've got the apple sauce.

Butter sauce. That's going to be with

sugar, we've got the cinnamon and cloves going in there, mixed spice.

Got the curly kale, got the walnuts and marjoram going with the

-rapeseed oil to dress it.

-These are Coxes?

-Yeah.

-You want me to get started on that?

-First job, I need...

That's the first bit.

There's several stages with this apple puree?

Yeah, it's a very old Victorian recipe like the quince cheeses

and the quince paste. This is a way of making that paste.

A good thing to do with leftover apples.

If it's an orchard and it's full of apples just grab them

and do this dish. We're going to cook them in cider

until they fall apart.

You mention quince, but...

it's called membrillo as well, the Spanish call it.

-Yeah.

-Which is like a little jam, but it's good for Christmas.

-Very good for Christmas.

-Put it on your cheeseboard.

You can wrap the quince in foil.

What I do is wrap them in foil, stick them in the oven and they bake

and you can scrape them and they are quite nice.

There you go. Tell us what you're doing...

The red-leg partridge, just one rasher of bacon just to

protect the breast, the red leg's a...

They're the most common.

The grey leg is the indigenous English one and are quite rare and very expensive,

silly money. Put a drop of oil in this pan.

What is it about game and us? We used to eat a lot of it, but now...

What do you reckon it is...?

Well, it is getting more popular. A lot of people are eating it and it's

healthy and everyone knows it has good nutrients in it and things

-like that.

-Yeah.

-It's eating the berries off the moor,

that's where grouse gets that real distinct flavour of the heather.

The supermarkets are starting selling it which is a good thing,

-cos...it's fantastic. Very good for us.

-Very good for you.

This is hot beef stock, we're going to make a walnut sauce,

very interesting walnut sauce. You can make a good beef stock or buy

them in supermarkets now.

-Yep.

-I'll reduce this down and liquidise the gravy with

walnut oil to make a mayonnaise kind of sauce.

Put this partridge in the oven. It only takes about...

-12 minutes at the most, being medium.

-The bacon's there not just for flavour, but...

It will keep it nice and moist. Have you got the apples?

-Doing them as fast as I can.

-OK, get a nice hot pan on there.

So, walnuts... I'll get the curly kale prepped, as well.

Right, literally chopping these apples into decent chunks?

Nice, big chunks. You can...

if you want, you can speed it up, you can take the cores out

and then just chuck them straight in a pot.

They fall apart and when they fall apart, you drain them

and then, we...

-You measure how much pulp is left.

-Yep.

If it's a pint of pulp, half a pint of sugar.

It goes back in the pan and evaporates, evaporates,

evaporates and cooks out and that's when we put the spices in it.

The way you test it to make sure it's ready, you put a spoon on a plate

and if there's a moat of water it's not done, you've got to evaporate it.

What's good about it, you can put it in the fridge and it keeps for ages,

for crumpets and stuff like that.

So grab the apples. They're going to go straight in here?

Straight in there. Let's get some cider on the go.

Like I say... LAUGHTER

I can't open a bottle of cider and not have a drop of it.

But you say you can do this with perry as well?

Yeah, I thought about doing it with perry.

-That's cracking, that, isn't it?

-It's nice.

-You like a drop of cider?

There you go.

I was thinking about trying it with perry to see if it works.

That goes straight in.

-OK?

-OK. Has the sugar gone in there?

-Not yet, no.

-OK. That's that.

So we've got some we cooked down earlier.

-You want to drain off that liquor?

-Yeah, drain them right off.

So you end up with just... That's what it looks like.

Back in the pan and then mash it.

So we've got about 500g of cooked apple.

-Let me move that over there.

-In with the sugar.

-So the sugar's gone in there.

-Sugar.

And in goes our spices - our cinnamon, our ground cloves

and stuff like that. That's got to cook down and evaporate.

-You would cook this really, really slowly now.

-Really, really slowly.

It takes ages. You know like when you do a mushroom duxelles,

-on the side of the stove to evaporate it slowly?

-How long for this?

Well over an hour.

-We're doing big vats of it at the restaurant.

-And you end up with

-this puree we've got on here?

-That's the pulp. That's what we're after.

I'll turn this on. There'll be a bit of noise.

That's a walnut oil.

So this is the hot gravy, hot jus.

This is something different for you.

Normally you're into traditional...

You've gone all fancy on us.

No! There's a lot of things I do...

I try and keep things quite simple so people can follow at home.

It's going to be very interesting to watch Andrew later on.

This is walnut oil going in?

Yes, like an emulsification, a hot mayonnaise.

Think of like, a hollandaise, but a meat hollandaise, with walnut oil.

This is going to emulsify and make a sauce.

It'll go really well with the partridge.

Last time you were on the show,

you were just about to do this book for

the kidney charity. Is it out now?

The good thing is we had to print extra copies,

cos you know I had a kidney transplant many years ago...

I do.

..And he keeps winding me up, because it's a woman's kidney.

I'll never hear the last of it.

You've got to pick the right month to phone him up...

Right, fire away.

I do love shoes more than ever(!) I have a great selection of shoes.

That's gone nice and light in colour.

And it tastes, excuse fingers, fantastic.

I wrote a cookbook called Rediscovering Food & Flavours

for people on dialysis, cos I was on dialysis myself

and it wasn't very nice - there's loads of things you can't eat.

I'll take this partridge out of the oven.

The good thing now is that the book,

you can download it.

Go to the Internet and type in Rediscovering Food & Flavours,

you can download it for free now,

so I've done my bit for charity, please, God.

I'll lift that off. You're going to take the bacon

and put that back in there.

The curly kale's going in.

We have our apple sauce and walnut sauce done.

The kale's gone in.

-In we go with the bacon.

-Toss that.

The kale you just blanch, don't you?

A lovely way to open walnuts, two in your hand.

There you go.

My dad used to bang them in the door when we were kids.

The walnuts go in there, James.

-Some rapeseed oil.

-A bit of marjoram.

I love marjoram. It's really lovely

-autumnal flavour.

-Fantastic flavour.

The Romans and Greeks used to love it.

It was a sign of happiness, they did crowns out of it.

They also put it on graves.

It was a happiness sort of herb.

They used to plant marjoram round the graves in Roman times.

Nice!

-I'm full of useless information.

-You literally put the marjoram on,

-then you have a little oil...

-Rapeseed oil, salt and pepper in there.

We'll take the partridge off the bone.

That pan's quite hot.

You've got the liquor in here. You want this seasoning up?

Nice bit of salt and pepper. The walnut sauce is ready.

-Bit of salt.

-The butter's ready.

-Black pepper.

-You say you'll use rapeseed oil?

-Yes.

Tell us about Roast. The ethos is it's based above

Borough Market - very, very British.

It's all British seasonal cookery.

The menu changes the first Wednesday of every month.

We change with the seasons.

We don't put asparagus and strawberries on the menu in December.

There's swede and curly kale and sprouts around at the moment,

that's what we do.

But the seasons change so quickly.

They do and you have to be on the ball

so I always try to be one step ahead.

I want to show you putting the bird back together.

You take it off.

You put it back together as if it was a bird.

This is a nice way of serving it.

We used to do this at...

This is one way of doing it.

There's the bird back together like that.

We have salt and pepper in those and we're ready.

We get the bacon that was covering

the partridge.

Curly kale is lovely.

It has more vitamins in it than broccoli.

But you have to quickly cook it?

It's quite sort of tough.

Lift up the partridge.

There you go.

Sit that on there.

-OK?

-Right.

Walnut sauce,

which we've made. This comes out quite fast.

Put my finger over the top.

Zigzag it over the top, very slowly.

It is very different for you,

because a lot of people literally put the sauce on the top,

but it emulsifies.

You can try different oils, different flavours.

Then the butter, just pipe this...

It's called apple butter, but there's no proper butter in it.

You can put the apple sauce in the fridge

and it's lovely with crumpets

and muffins and things like that.

You said, "Let's do it with a pork dish."

You do nice little high peaks if you can, like that,

and there's our marjoram,

our lovely walnuts.

Walnuts are very good for you.

They're very good for your heart.

There's those lovely, autumnal flavours.

It's very chef-y for you, that.

Well, I am a chef, Chef.

THEY LAUGH

I do try to be a chef.

Remind me what that is again.

Roast partridge, curly kale and bacon,

with apple butter sauce,

walnuts and marjoram.

-In how long?

-In about seven minutes.

-There you go, Mum.

-Try that at home.

It look delicious. Phill, there you go,

partridge at quarter-past ten in the morning.

-Dive into that.

-Okey-dokey.

Tell us what you think about that.

You don't have to use partridge, you could use pheasant...

Pheasant would be fantastic, lovely.

Particularly that apple with the pork.

Stay away from fat men when they're eating.

THEY LAUGH

You're a little close!

I'll move a bit over, then.

Would partridge be something you'd pick on a menu?

Absolutely not.

Not in a million years.

Taste a bit of the old apple stuff.

-All the marjoram and nuts.

-I want apple, I want nuts, I want it all.

This might arouse you, actually.

You could use pheasant and everything else.

-Cook it exactly the same way.

-Duck breast as well.

Very good?

A lot of people wouldn't choose that on a menu,

-but having tasted it...

-Oh, man!

..You really appreciate how good it is.

I've got the kale now, need some greens.

I'm not going to take the plate off him...

My advice is, don't drink the cider when you're cooking,

which is a contradiction in terms introducing this next man,

Keith Floyd. He's venturing north of the border.

Today he's cooking Scottish-style.

Isn't it funny how time flies

when you're really enjoying yourself?

I was thrilled when the producer proposed another boat trip(!)

But no self-respecting food programme

should miss a trip on a prawn boat.

It's worth noting for those of you

who are a bit mean

that the arduous work of a prawn fisherman

is not rewarded by bulging creels of this vibrant delicacy,

it's much more usual to haul up a pot containing two or three,

and on top of that, they have to contend with vicious tides,

demonic currents and whirlpools.

Because this is the legendary Corryvreckan.

I'm surprised no-one's done a bit of moody music over this,

a symphony or something. I think I'll knock one up on the way back.

Should only take three or four hours.

You know that I'm a dreadful stickler

for the finest and freshest of ingredients.

If you want a really good plate of langoustines where I live,

for example, in Bristol,

you have to fly to Barcelona, Madrid or somewhere like that

because the finest langoustines from the West Coast of Scotland

invariably end up down there.

I thought it was cheaper on my BBC meal break

to enjoy some fabulous langoustines by catching them,

you saw me do that, well, I was watching them do it,

and cook them here, but in fact, most of you, I know, all of you,

one in four people, four out of five people,

have seen my brilliant programmes where I've grilled them,

roasted them, flamed them, and if you haven't caught it by now,

hard luck, because I ain't cooking any more langoustines.

One of the best meals I had here was a gigot of mutton,

absolutely fabulous,

and so I thought to round off this lovely fishing trip we've had,

I'd make some rissoles. Pritchard, into the pot.

Those are the rissoles, and do you know how you make rissoles?

Come back again, Pritchard, thank you, I know you had a tiring day.

Gets a bit fresh on the boat.

You get some old mutton that you've cooked, cold,

you mince it up - by hand,

not in a Magimix, because that liquidises it, almost,

you add some mashed potato, some finely chopped onion,

and some parsley, but you don't fry them in corn oil.

You get proper blinking dripping,

you see. This kind of stuff.

That's what you fry them in,

and they are absolutely fabulous,

and a shame on you lot who go to supermarkets

and buy little frozen packs of square things

and drop them into corn oil, because it's dreadful.

Anyway, that's my lecture for today.

The director has been quite good, so although they need two of those,

that's one for me and one for the cameraman,

Pritchard's been quite good,

I'm going to prepare him a really super meal of langoustine bait,

which is some really nice bits of old herring left to rot.

-There we are, that's for being so good.

-How kind.

CLASSICAL MUSIC

# Mmm-mm-mm! # That's it, that's the first movement,

and I'll knock that out on the old Joanna after dinner,

but now, on to the delicate art of conning a kitchen,

sort of being on the conning knocker, as we call it in the trade.

Point one - stay modest and don't set your sights too high.

Two - choose a house well blessed with fertile lands and healthy stock.

Three - remember to wipe your feet as you enter.

Four - cross your fingers as you say it won't take long.

I think a really serious cookery demonstration should commence

with a few words from the Bard.

I'm not talking about Shakespeare, I'm talking about Rabbie Burns.

"O Lord, when hunger pinches sore, do thou stand us in stead

"and send us from thy bounteous store a tup or wetherhead."

A tup or wetherhead? What on earth is that? I'll tell you what it is.

It's a mutton. It's an elderly sheep.

It's something four years old, at least.

It lives on these wonderful hills

and valleys and glens, as they're called around here,

nibbling at bog myrtle, wild thyme, wild sage, parsley, heather.

It doesn't need herbs to be roasted in,

because it's been eating them all its life,

and it ends up, come and have a close look, Pritchard,

ends up looking like this dark meat,

like a haunch of venison or a piece of beef.

You'd hardly think that was lamb,

certainly if you were used to eating the lamb we have in England,

which is pale and milky. Jolly delicious, but quite different.

And this gigot is a Scottish French word.

In France, they'd say "un jig-oh", here they say "a jiggot".

Everybody says it when they go to the butcher - "A gigot, please."

And they get a leg of mutton.

And they poach it in water, very, very simply,

come down and have a look, with a load of root vegetables,

turnips, swedes, leeks, carrots,

and onions stuffed with cloves,

simmered for three or four hours.

And it's absolutely brilliant,

but what is also brilliant is this remarkable kitchen.

I know it's not the Antiques Roadshow or Upstairs Downstairs,

but look at it, it's incredible.

Handmade pots with the owner's initials on them,

this amazing tiling, Thomas Crapper of Chelsea must have worked like mad.

Come and have a look, it's quite extraordinary.

The doors, the fittings, it's like a yacht.

This is more like a palace than a kitchen,

but for some people it must have meant an awful lot of work.

Imagine them scrubbing the carrots,

peeling the potatoes, baking the bread.

Mr Hudson would walk in and say,

"That's not good enough, make sure those plates are properly cleaned."

It's amazing. Look at it, cakes and confectionery,

Escoffier would have been proud of this place, and look at this.

This is what really interests me. The dairy. Come on in, Pritchard.

It's cool and quiet.

I can imagine in the busy days of banquets and stuff

when you were sent off to make the cream, it was a great relief.

You'd close the door and stay in this serene sort of chapel,

and it's good, of course, the servants and staff have gone,

but the laird still makes wonderful creamy butter.

That's fabulous, isn't it? Anyway, it's meant to be a cooking programme.

Let's get back to it.

Oh, there is one more thing.

Come and have a look at this. It's really interesting.

This is what I wanted to show you.

They didn't just go to the job centre in those days, sign the form

and get winged in because they were good potato peelers or laundry maids

or something like that. They had to read the whole thing,

book, rule and verse, you know,

"Duty to God, duty to the King," and all the rest of it,

and also look here, "to submit myself to all my governors, teachers,

"spiritual pastors and masters,

"to order myself lowly and reverently to all my betters."

Betters? I'd better go and cook the Laird's dinner.

I'm sorry about that, but I was so fascinated by it all,

I wanted you to see it. It's amazing, isn't it?

Anyway, this is a cookery lesson, and let's get down to business.

Let's put our toasting fork away and talk about the gigot.

The gigot is going to be poached in water, as I explained,

with these lovely root vegetables,

but later on, it will be served with a caper sauce.

Caper sauce is very simple to make.

You make a roux, bit of melted butter and flour, add some milk,

add some stock from the cooked dish, and chuck in some capers.

There we are, Pritchard, capers, just in case you don't know what they are.

Right, it's got to be simmered for three hours,

so the first thing we do,

pop it into this tub of water,

into which I've put a couple of bay leaves and a couple of cloves,

a couple of peppercorns

and quite a bit of salt.

We then surround it with all these splendid vegetables.

Because it's going to be cooked slowly,

these vegetables won't disintegrate.

You might think that they'd all mash into a pulp,

but this isn't going to be boiled away, it's going to be simmered away,

there we are.

And then... This is the Laird's pot, by the way.

My God, I bet the Laird doesn't do this himself all that often.

I imagine there are a few old retainers to this day

to lift it over onto this rather...

Gordon Bennett, this is true, it actually is damned heavy!

Onto there. Cor!

That will now simmer, believe it or not, for three hours.

I think it's time, as we say, for me to take a dram,

you to take a break, and have a walk around this estate.

It is an estate of which dreams are made from.

PASTORAL MUSIC

Yes, look, erm, look, I'm really sorry about this music,

but the truth is, the BBC library was shut that day

and we had to borrow this from my producer,

which on balance, is better than his other record,

Richard Clayderman Takes The High Road... Actually, I'm not so sure.

Oh, dear, here's the loch again, noted for its kippers, fine oysters,

plumptious prawns...

CASH REGISTER PINGS I thank you!

Now to business. If, like me, you've just become a gardener,

what a fine place this is, in May in particular, to nick a few cuttings.

Of course, poaching an azalea is one thing, but don't mess with the salmon

or you'll end up filleted and smoked too,

like this superb Loch Fyne beauty.

CASH REGISTER PINGS I thank you!

So, there we are, that's just about it.

I know you've had a good trip around the estate

and I've been, as you can see, slaving away here, just to recap,

poaching the gigot in water with these lovely root vegetables

and it's ready for the laird, whom I've kept waiting.

I promised him lunch at...

Well, we always do that, run over time a little bit.

In there it goes, and I'll just pass it up to myself in the lift.

OK, Keith?

# Heigh ho, heigh ho

# It's off to work I go... #

-There we are, lord. Sorry it's late.

-It's only five o'clock.

'It's a pity mutton has gone the way of so much of our culinary heritage.

'There is no comparison between imported lamb

'and mutton happily raised on... # Bog myrtle, heather and thyme! #'

Now then, what I forgot to mention to our viewers

was the indispensable caper sauce. Have a close look, Pritchard.

You melt some butter, put a little flour in to make a roux,

then you add some milk, then, as it thickens,

you add some of the stock from this into it, and then finally

some beautifully chopped up capers,

which you then pour over this.

This is sort of piquant and creamy,

and it goes brilliantly with the mutton.

Right, if I can just give you...

-Lovely...

-..a bit of the stuff.

-A leek, I think.

-Right.

And if you've been out hauling up oysters and things like that all day,

or chasing venison or whatever you lairds do...

-Reading the Sunday Times.

-Reading the Sunday Times!

-Very exhausting.

-Thank you, that's lovely.

-Oh, and a carrot. You must have a carrot.

-There you go, you tuck into that.

-Thank you, I will.

-And I'll serve myself.

-Thank you very much.

I mean, this is actually, I think it's a three-year-old wether,

and I should think that you and I are the only people in Great Britain

eating such a strange dish today.

-Yeah. What a shame.

-Because it's not available,

and mutton is almost a pejorative term, isn't it?

"Mutton dressed as lamb."

How can we get people to eat things like mutton?

I think it's very much up to...

I think we have got to market it,

the farmers have got to try to think

of ways of getting it to the marketplace

and as hill mutton, rather like the small vineyard owners

might market their own single vineyard wines. That sort of thing.

Anyway, John, we've got to get on,

they've got to get to work and find some more scenes and stuff to do,

so thanks for letting us use your house.

-Thank you for letting us muck up your day.

-Not at all.

-We've had a fabulous time.

-At the end of the day,

I had the most excellent boiled gigot of wether

-and I must thank you for that.

-Well, thank you very much.

-Slainte.

-Slainte.

-As they say.

Meanwhile, back on the riverbank...

-That was a bit better.

-Much better.

That is a bit more encouraging.

I've only got a couple of hours to catch a superb salmon

for Lady Maclean's lunch. Peter is going to help me.

I'm dressed in the right stuff.

Shouldn't be any problem. It's just that, um...

-That was quite a good one again.

-Very good.

-Yes.

I'm actually getting a bit better at this.

We'll get the lunch, don't worry.

-And if not, well, we'll just starve.

-There you are now.

-A fish is after your fly.

-I've got him! I've got him!

-Right, keep the rod up. That's lovely.

-How do I get the...?

-Wind this in if you can.

-Right.

-Hold that. Wind it in.

Once you get it on the reel...

-Right, now, this is the reel.

-You've got it on the reel. That's lovely.

Don't rush it, that's it.

That's it, let him go quiet,

but keep your rod up.

All you've got to do is keep the rod up. Lovely.

Let him go where he wants to go.

Then wind in now.

-That's very good.

-I actually cursed that one too, didn't I?

That's the extraordinary thing about it. Ah...

-Ah, it's gone.

-It's off again!

He's off!

Well...

-Keep trying.

-That's just my luck, isn't it?

But never mind. Once encouraged like that, just keep on doing it.

-There's not a problem there. That was a great shame.

-Very good.

-What did I do wrong?

-No, nothing, you just didn't take it very well.

Take it a wee bit better there.

Pretty impressive, though, hey? First, more or less first cast.

-You have to start all over again now.

-Yes, or Lady Maclean will go hungry.

'Failure is a solitary thing, and I was sad to lose the fish,

'and injured that when I took my next one,

'the crew had lost interest and were busy filming rare flowers.'

Pritchard, get the blinking camera! I've got one!

'They didn't even know the name of the plants.'

I've got one!

Now, we did something that we shouldn't do,

but Lady Maclean is far more important than actually scruples

at the end of the day, and I'm afraid what we did was,

we put a little spinner on,

and in fact, we've got one,

so honour, in fact, is salvaged, I think.

If I can hold it just for the last...

Thank you very much, Peter.

-There you are.

-There. You see? There's lunch for Lady Maclean.

She'll be very, very pleased with us, I think.

I'm certainly very pleased with me, cos we never cheat on this programme.

That's the one really good thing about it.

How heavy is that? Three or four pounds?

That's lovely. About three pounds.

-Yeah. That's absolutely fine.

-OK.

-Absolutely fine.

Ideal for your cooking.

It's always great to see classic foodie TV like that.

Now, we're not cooking live in the studio today.

Instead, we're looking back at some of the great recipes

from the Saturday Kitchen Cookbook. Still to come on today's Best Bites,

we take inspiration from Heston Blumenthal

in the Saturday Kitchen Omelette Challenge

when Stewart Gillies takes on Katie Caldesi.

Will headphones help either of them get to the top of the leaderboard?

Find out in a little while.

Michael Caines makes a stunning creme brulee.

He makes the dessert from scratch

and serves it with marinated autumn fruits and a mint broth,

and Tom Parker-Bowles faces food heaven or food hell.

Would he get his food heaven,

tomatoes, with my tomato, cheese and grainy mustard tart,

or would he get his food hell,

goat's cheese, with my goat's cheese-stuffed chicken breast

with roasted veg and potatoes?

Find out what he gets to eat at the end of today's show.

Now it's time for Tristan Welch to get creative

with some delicious salt marsh lamb and a salty huff of pastry.

This is a lot of salt going in here, so just be aware of that.

-This is flour, salt, egg white and water.

-Yeah,

it's only just to cook the lamb in,

we'll basically be covering it round

with nice salty steam in there,

so a fair amount of salt in it.

Now, tell us about salt marsh lamb, in particular the cut you're using.

It's fantastic. It's lamb that's reared on the coastline

of the estuaries and stuff like that,

and what it does, it grazes upon some of these wonderful herbs

-that we're going to cook it with, here.

-Yeah.

We've got sea aster here,

which is a little bit like samphire and spinach crossed,

-we've got sea purslane, which...

-I've used this stuff before.

-It's great with fish as well.

-Yes, it's perfect with fish.

I mean, this really is great. You could do this whole dish with fish,

but because the lamb is reared along the coastline, along the estuaries,

it's got a great sort of feel to it still.

And then of course, sea beets, which is very much like spinach.

It's got a slight salty taste.

We've got the epicure potatoes which grow best right next to the sea

in the sandy sort of soils, and then wild sorrel to finish it off.

Right, I'm running behind,

-I need to get my lamb sealed.

-I need to get this pastry in as well.

So what we're going to do is get the pastry in.

No seasoning on the lamb shoulder, by the way.

-We're just going to colour it off a little bit.

-The flour's going in.

In with the egg whites.

And then check out the salt.

This is the salt!

Salt's going to go in.

But funnily enough, it won't be that salty

when it comes to eating the lamb.

You're using this as a crust.

It's just a crust.

-You cook fish in crusts of salt, don't you?

-Yeah.

-That's done with egg whites and sea salt.

-Yeah.

But this is almost a salt crust as it is.

Because we're cooking it for a longer time than what we would fish,

we mix it with flour

so the salt doesn't permeate the shoulder too much.

It seems to me, what you're talking about with the lamb,

the expression "you are what you eat",

-but what you're saying is, "You are what your eat eats."

-Yeah.