30/04/2017 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites


30/04/2017

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Transcript


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Good morning, I'm Matt Tebbutt, I've got a mouthwatering menu of

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fabulous food lined up for you over the next 90 minutes.

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All you need to do is to sit back and enjoy today's brilliant line-up of Best Bites.

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Welcome to the show.

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Now, I hope you're hungry, because we have top chefs serving

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fantastic food, and a handful of celebrities that all need feeding.

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Coming up on today's show...

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James Martin serves up fillet steak with

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a classic bearnaise and fries for actor William Gaminara.

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Dan Doherty whips up a meatball dish that's sure to get your mouth watering.

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The meatballs are made using a winning combination of pork, salami

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and fennel, which are then topped with a creamy home-made ricotta.

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Glynn Purnell is here with a nostalgic homage to liquorice.

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Roast duck is rolled in liquorice charcoal and served with

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liquorice puree, green beans and tamarind.

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And at the omelette challenge hobs today are Michelin-starred

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chefs Tom Kerridge and Paul Ainsworth.

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And as both chefs already have respectable times,

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it should be a quick one.

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Then over to the godfather of Italian gastronomy, Antonio Carluccio,

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who's here with a perfect starter for your next dinner party.

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He tops a cooked pasta sheet with wild mushroom filling,

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before covering with another sheet.

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He then adds a little more filling and sprinkles over Parmesan.

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And finally, Les Dennis faces his food heaven or his food hell.

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Did he get his food heaven - a trio of creme brulee with

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palmier biscuits - or his food hell - honey-roasted pork belly

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with roasted salmon and sauteed savoy cabbage?

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You can find out what he got at the end of the show.

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But first, it's over to the legendary Michel Roux,

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who is here with the first-ever souffle cooked on Saturday Kitchen.

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-Welcome to the show.

-Thank you, thank you very much.

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-Right, what are we cooking, Chef?

-Souffle.

-Souffle.

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First time we've cooked a souffle on Saturday Kitchen.

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And the first thing to do, obviously, is get it in the oven,

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which we've just done a few minutes ago.

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We will show you how to make this.

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Oh, yes, we are going through the whole procedure.

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-That's enough water.

-Do you want me to open the oven for you?

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-Yes, please. Bring them over.

-We're putting these in the oven now.

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They need seven to eight minutes for moist and slightly runny.

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Eight to nine for well cooked, but we will cook them...

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This is set about 375 degrees Fahrenheit, that's about 170,

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-180 degrees centigrade. Hit the start button.

-OK, so, ingredients.

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-Yes.

-We need to do a roux, so we've got the butter, which I'm using right now.

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The flour, which is going to be...

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What's the secret behind making a good roux?

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-Having a good brother.

-Yeah, brother...

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THEY LAUGH

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-Exactly.

-Who is called Albert.

-Albert.

-Yes, Albert.

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No, it is really to have one component to be hot and the other one cold.

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So that means the butter, the roux, the roux is hot,

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-you must have your milk cold.

-Right, OK.

-Or vice versa.

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-Otherwise you get lumps.

-Absolutely right.

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Now, to do the souffle as well, we are going to need grated cheese

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because I am using Gruyere, Comte it could be, even Cheddar.

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But a bit less. And then you butter them all, you're going to separate the eggs.

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You want me to do the eggs? Yeah, I can do that.

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-Now, you want six egg yolks for this and eight egg whites?

-Yes, please.

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And then I've got cream and, of course, the haddock,

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-that beautiful haddock.

-And you're using the proper smoked haddock.

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Yes, absolutely. And then I'm going to start that in the cream.

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-I'll get the heat up for you there.

-Thank you.

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James, this is actually... It's brilliant here,

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we've got a masterclass of souffles.

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I mean, I never thought I'd be sitting here so close...

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I never thought I'd be cracking eggs live on television.

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LAUGHTER

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And not any egg yolk in my white, please, Chef.

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Yes, Chef. Yes, Chef.

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Because that will be really bad news.

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-And we don't want bad news.

-No.

-We want only good news.

-Michel?

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-Yeah, don't worry, I'm getting it out.

-The souffle...

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-Now, the way you whisk this...

-You've got to whisk it very nicely,

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in the palm of your hand, just like that,

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you see? The body is checking who it was.

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If you don't do your exercise before, it doesn't matter, really.

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-That's the secret.

-The milk goes in it. There we are.

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The whisking action almost looks like a Tai Chi move, doesn't it?

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Yes, it's lovely, isn't it?

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So, now, I've got as well some poached eggs, which I will keep.

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-These are the little quail's eggs.

-I want to show them because

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the quail's eggs poached on the top of the souffle will be marvellous.

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-We leave that to someone else to do that.

-Leave that with me.

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Yes, how kind.

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LAUGHTER

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-OK.

-So here we are.

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The mould, the souffle mould? I've got them there.

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We butter them. Grease them.

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-Now, you learnt your trade from your mother, was it?

-Mother, then in pastry.

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And then straight into the kitchen.

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Because your passion was, like mine was, was pastry.

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I remember watching yourself and your brother do

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a series as well, a long time ago.

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But I remember cooking that and getting the inspiration for desserts.

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But you've still got the inspiration for desserts now,

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-you're bringing out a new book?

-Yes, yes. Pastry.

-Yeah.

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Pastry. Savoury. Sweet and savoury.

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There will be a recipe about filo, brioche, pizza,

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lovely pizza. I love pizza.

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-This is coming out in October?

-In October.

-Yeah.

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120 recipes, plenty of pictures. And good food. Now, here we are.

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Butter the mould.

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Look at that, the bechamel is coming up nicely.

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The fish is going to poach, you need to poach for three or four minutes, no more than that.

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-But you say this is the perfect breakfast dish.

-It is.

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-Of course it is.

-Get up a little bit early and get a souffle in the oven.

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-It's easy-peasy. Everything is easy in life, isn't it?

-Yeah.

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Look, it's ready, boiling, another two, three minutes.

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Now, we put some cheese in there.

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As well as the restaurants, you're constantly busy doing other stuff. Travelling the world.

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I am travelling the world. I'm the ambassador of the world society(!)

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And my son Alain is doing the cooking,

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-so I don't have to do anything any more.

-Just travel the world.

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But, I mean, you mention travelling, you've just come back from Dubai.

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-Because another thing that you're hugely passionate about...

-Aha, thank you, Chef.

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Something you're hugely passionate about is the scholarship that you

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-opened about 25 years ago.

-Yes, 25 years ago.

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And I took most of them.

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We were 20 - 12, the judges,

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two people from the press, the media -

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and we did a fantastic study tour.

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Really fantastic. 25 years we've been running the scholarship.

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-And this is a famous competition.

-Very important timing. Oh, yes.

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-In we go with the egg yolks.

-Absolutely.

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-We don't need that any more.

-So we've lined the souffle moulds with butter.

-Absolutely right.

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-A bit of the Gruyere.

-Yes. Now we are ready. I want...

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-Can you snip a bit of dill?

-Yes, a little bit of dill, Chef.

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And we've got some fish there, which have been poached.

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To go back to the scholar,

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the first scholar we had,

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you know, he's marvellous.

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I mean, he was 22 and he is now 46, I believe.

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Andrew Fairlie for the Gleneagles Hotel.

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And he's got two stars, Michelin,

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and I think it's lovely to see those young people

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when they have been doing marvellous work.

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But most of the chefs that you've put through the scholarship

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-have gone on to get Michelin stars.

-Yes.

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Having their own restaurants, travelling around the world,

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but mainly staying in the UK,

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and helping, as you said, the cooking to move forward.

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-Right, the egg whites have gone in.

-Yes, with the dill.

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-Thank you very much.

-Dill gone in.

-Perfect. The cheese.

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-Cheese, Chef.

-Very quickly, please.

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-Thank you, James.

-Yes, Chef.

-I can see you haven't changed.

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-You haven't lost any of your skill.

-LAUGHTER

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-Because you have got a style as well.

-Oh, I've got a style.

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It's very important to think about that.

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So, where do we go? We go half of the mould, you see?

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Half of the mould.

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Is there any other fish you'd recommend to go in there, Michel?

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-Yes, we can use smoked trout as well.

-Smoked trout?

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Which is perfect, but smoked haddock is one of the best fish.

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And there we go.

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So, the smoked fish goes in the middle,

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which has been lightly poached in cream.

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Look at that. Beautiful.

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-You've got to be careful not to have any bones in it.

-Yes.

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That's very important

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because you don't want to go to the hospital during breakfast.

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-Huh? So, here we are.

-OK.

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So, now a bit more on the top.

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Look at Nick. He's sat there like a child at school.

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I'm quite inspired. I was just thinking,

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I wonder if you could touch a little bit of white miso into a souffle

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-instead of the cheese.

-You can, you can. I've tried them.

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-I've tried them. No, I haven't.

-LAUGHTER

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-How about I meet you next week...?

-But I will now.

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I'll meet you next week, we can try.

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-Get the knife.

-Yes.

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Smooth the surface. Look at that.

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Do you always cooked a souffle in a bain-marie?

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It's better because, I tell you what,

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it will stay moister, in my opinion.

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-Now, we've got enough for four.

-OK.

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But we are only two, you and I.

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-We're not going to share it with them.

-No, exactly.

-No way. No way.

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-Whatever you want to do, Chef.

-So, we are ready.

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We've got some boiling water, I believe.

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So that's going to go in a minute.

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-Have we got another couple of minutes?

-Yeah.

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-So we can talk about the souffle.

-Yes. Fire away.

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-You know what is my favourite souffle?

-What's that?

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-Well, chocolate souffle.

-Chocolate?

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But you don't like the chocolate, so I have decided to do that.

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The perfect chocolate souffle, do you use egg yolk and chocolate?

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-Yes.

-Just egg yolks, chocolate and whipped egg whites?

-Yes.

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Avoid to do a bechamel or patissiere.

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Because the chocolate itself has got body so it's lovely.

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So it's basically just chocolate, the egg yolks and the egg whites.

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Absolutely. Now, you've poached those lovely little eggs.

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-Yes, they're ready, Chef.

-They're beautiful. Lovely.

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-That can go in there.

-So, we can go?

-Yes, we can go.

-OK. Good, good.

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-Have we got a plate to plate our souffle?

-I'll get that.

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-Thank you very much.

-Sorry, Chef.

-No, no, not at all.

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-And we've got a few little sprigs for presentation.

-We've got sprigs.

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Lovely. So, we go to the oven. Are we all right?

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-We can go to the oven, yeah.

-Excellent.

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-OK.

-Pop it in there, Chef.

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Good. And can we get out the one we just cooked?

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-I will carry that one over.

-That's it.

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-Hopefully.

-Hopefully.

-ALARM BEEPS

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-Look at that!

-Timing!

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-Look at the timing, guys.

-Oh, look at these!

-I mean, I love it.

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What do you do to push the button? The right or left?

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-Just throw it out of the way.

-There, that's it.

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-Now, this one is the one I like.

-ALARM CONTINUES BEEPING

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BANGING AND LAUGHTER

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ALARM CONTINUES

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That's lovely. Is that what you do when you want to get rid of them?

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-Put it in the water.

-Good Lord.

-ALARM STOPS

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Let me get that there. There.

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-There you go.

-Little soft-poached eggs. Lovely.

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And a sprig of... Oh, look at that.

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-Poached egg.

-Poached eggs.

-And a clock.

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Do you want the two souffles served or one is enough?

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Whatever you want to do, Chef.

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-It's all right.

-Happy with that?

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Happy with that. That's it.

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-Voila. Look at that.

-Michel, reminder us what that dish is again.

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You want it to be said?

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Smoked haddock souffle.

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-Cooked by the legend.

-And look at that, lightly moving.

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If you like it more cooked,

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leave it another two minutes and it rises even better.

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-I'm happy with that. Just leave it at that.

-Simple as that. Good. OK.

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-Right, Michel, come over here.

-Good.

-You get a souffle.

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-There you go, Hugh.

-Is that for me?

-Yeah, that's for you.

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Does it come with a timer as well?

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-THEY LAUGH

-I don't know how to stop it.

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-Dive in, tell us what you think.

-Wow.

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You will find the middle slightly runny, as I said.

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Seven or eight minutes, slightly runny.

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-One or two minutes more...

-But like you said,

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you could do it with smoked haddock, smoked trout, smoked salmon...

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-Yes, absolutely.

-Oh, forget the oysters, I'm in heaven already.

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-LAUGHTER

-This is extraordinary.

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It's so light and none of the flavours are overpowering it

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which is just sensational.

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-Oh, gosh. You can't have any.

-LAUGHTER

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You've got to pass it down.

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-No, no. What you mean, I've got pass it down?

-Pass it down.

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Mm, fantastic.

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You know why I'm putting little eggs on the top?

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Because when you burst the egg, the yolk goes in the souffle.

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You see, I was too polite to break the egg.

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-Little quail's eggs on the top.

-Mmm, it's really nice.

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-What do you reckon?

-Really nice.

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-Sensational. What more can I say?

-LAUGHTER

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Now, if you want to learn how to make a souffle,

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that is the man to learn from.

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Coming up, James cooks fillet steak with a classic bearnaise and fries

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for William Gaminara,

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but first it's over to Rick Stein who is on the trail

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of the great British steak-and-kidney pudding.

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This pyramid here is the tomb of Mad Jack Fuller,

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who weighed 22st when he died.

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And rumour has it that he was interred sitting at a table

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with a meal in front of him,

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a bottle of claret within arm's reach,

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wearing dinner clothes and a top hat.

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He was obviously well loved cos there's a poem written about him

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which says, "May his soul rest in peace

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"or travel happily over elysian fields,

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"for in Sussex, he was a good man."

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Another reason why Mad Jack grew so large could be that

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Mrs Beeton first discovered

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the recipe for steak-and-kidney pudding in this county.

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And it was probably made using the meat from these Sussex Red cattle.

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Finding rare breeds is one thing,

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but being able to buy the meat from a butcher

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who gets it straight from the farm is a joy.

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Jamie Wickens' shop is tucked away on the edge of Winchelsea.

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All of his meat is local - the lamb is from Romney Marsh.

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But it's the beef that excites me.

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Just look at that marbling!

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I've a real passion for the native breeds.

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Wherever you are in the country,

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you should support the farming community around you

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because there's plenty of good products out there,

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all to be utilised.

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Yeah. And you should do it more often.

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Did you know that the very first recipe for steak-and-kidney pudding

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-actually came from Sussex?

-I do now!

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THEY LAUGH

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So, what's the secret of a great steak-and-kidney pudding?

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Well, I think just steak and ox kidneys, a bit of thyme,

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onion, stock, salt, pepper, and that's about it.

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I mean, lots of people like to add bits and bobs,

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Worcester sauce, and they like to really hard-fry the meat

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and make it all dark, but I think it's all about subtlety,

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and just putting everything in the pudding and leaving it to cook

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very gently, to steam away for about four hours.

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So, first of all, the pastry for the pudding,

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and it's got to be suet pastry, of course.

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So, you take self-raising flour, and sieve it through a sieve

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into a large bowl with some salt.

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Then you add the suet, and it can be prepared suet, of course,

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and then you add water,

0:14:540:14:56

and stir it together with a wooden spoon

0:14:560:14:58

till it all collects together.

0:14:580:15:00

Then you get your hands in,

0:15:020:15:03

and you can speedily see whether it's a bit on the dry side.

0:15:030:15:06

Maybe you need to add a little bit more water.

0:15:060:15:09

Work it all together, then out onto a lightly floured board.

0:15:090:15:14

And what I like to use here is marble.

0:15:140:15:16

It's much the best surface for making any sort of pastry.

0:15:160:15:20

And then roll it out into a large disc,

0:15:200:15:23

about 12, 14 inches in diameter.

0:15:230:15:26

Now, then, to get it to fit in easily,

0:15:260:15:28

just cut a quarter of the pastry away

0:15:280:15:31

so you've got, like, a three-quarter piece,

0:15:310:15:33

and then fold those three quarters over,

0:15:330:15:36

just put the point in the centre of the buttered pudding basin,

0:15:360:15:41

and just ease it out, round.

0:15:410:15:42

I'm using rump steak here, and kidneys, and the ratio is about

0:15:440:15:48

three-quarters steak to one-quarter kidneys.

0:15:480:15:51

Next, I've added two chopped onions and some thyme -

0:15:510:15:54

that's very important to me - and lots of parsley and some flour.

0:15:540:15:59

Now, the flour is just to thicken the sauce slightly at the end.

0:15:590:16:03

And finally, the seasoning.

0:16:030:16:04

Salt and so much black pepper - I go mad in a steak-and-kidney pudding

0:16:040:16:08

with black pepper, but I love that heat that comes out in the dish.

0:16:080:16:12

And really, it's as simple as that. It's the glory of British cooking.

0:16:120:16:16

Why bother to make it more difficult when it tastes so perfect as it is?

0:16:160:16:20

And now beef stock - about a pint of that - and just brush the top

0:16:200:16:25

of the suet pastry with water, and on goes the lid.

0:16:250:16:29

I like covering my pudding in a tea towel.

0:16:290:16:31

You can use foil, but the traditional look

0:16:310:16:34

of the pudding steaming away fills me with anticipation.

0:16:340:16:38

Put it gently inside that big saucepan,

0:16:380:16:42

put a lid on the top, and leave it for four hours, but as I said,

0:16:420:16:46

check it about every half an hour to an hour, just to make sure

0:16:460:16:49

there's enough water in there and it's not boiling dry.

0:16:490:16:52

And that's it.

0:16:520:16:54

After about three to four hours of gentle steaming, you lift it out...

0:16:560:17:01

and notice how the top is all domed up.

0:17:010:17:03

The joy of steak-and-kidney pudding is when you dig that spoon

0:17:040:17:07

into the top of the pudding and lift out a wedge

0:17:070:17:10

and smell the aroma

0:17:100:17:12

and see the long, slow-cooked meat and onions underneath.

0:17:120:17:16

And what to drink with it?

0:17:160:17:18

Well, it was made for old claret.

0:17:180:17:21

And brussels sprouts. It's got to be -

0:17:210:17:24

no other vegetable goes so well - and just some boiled potatoes.

0:17:240:17:28

'I came here to Stone House Manor in the village of Rushlake Green

0:17:340:17:38

'because...well, it's where I'm staying tonight,

0:17:380:17:41

'and Jane Dunn, who runs it, is a first-class cook.'

0:17:410:17:44

Come on, Chalky.

0:17:440:17:46

'Now, if it ain't in her walled garden, it's not on the menu.'

0:17:460:17:50

Oh, that's verbena, isn't it?

0:17:520:17:54

That's Verbena, which is wonderful for teas,

0:17:540:17:57

and I put it sometimes with sole.

0:17:570:17:59

-Shouldn't be telling you this!

-You can! You know?

-Yes.

0:17:590:18:03

Cos it's absolutely delicious, it has a really good, lemony taste.

0:18:030:18:07

-Makes jolly nice ice cream, actually.

-I should think wonderful.

0:18:070:18:10

Really does.

0:18:100:18:11

It must give a whole sort of different dimension to cooking,

0:18:110:18:14

to have a garden like this and to be able to draw...

0:18:140:18:17

Well, just think of it - in the evening when you're cooking,

0:18:170:18:20

if you've forgotten something, you can rush out, get a herb or two

0:18:200:18:23

and put herbs on the plate to make things...

0:18:230:18:26

People look at things like nasturtiums and say,

0:18:260:18:29

"Good heavens, you can't eat that." But they do!

0:18:290:18:32

I mean, that soup we had last night, the parsley soup, I mean,

0:18:320:18:35

who would have thought of making a soup out of parsley?

0:18:350:18:38

I mean, it was lovely.

0:18:380:18:39

Well, it's just, when you have all these people to stay,

0:18:390:18:42

and they want soup every night - Americans are mad on soup -

0:18:420:18:46

and you've just got to dream up kind of, you know, new soups,

0:18:460:18:49

so I went into the garden, saw the parsley, thought,

0:18:490:18:51

"Well, let's try it!"

0:18:510:18:53

-So, it's not an old traditional recipe?

-I suspect it probably is.

0:18:530:18:58

You just roughly chop the parsley,

0:19:010:19:03

and you use the stalks as well in the soup.

0:19:030:19:06

Take an ounce or two of butter and melt it on a medium heat.

0:19:060:19:09

Then throw in the parsley and some chopped leeks,

0:19:090:19:12

and as we so often in the trade say, sweat the vegetables,

0:19:120:19:15

which means gently fry them without colour.

0:19:150:19:18

Now add some potatoes.

0:19:180:19:20

They're going to thicken the soup and add flavour and, finally,

0:19:200:19:24

some stock - just some light chicken stock.

0:19:240:19:27

Bring the soup to the boil and leave it to simmer,

0:19:270:19:30

and that will give you time to make the chive cream.

0:19:300:19:33

Just chop up some chives finely and whisk a little cream,

0:19:330:19:37

and just fold the two together.

0:19:370:19:39

Now, I've kept a handful of parsley leaves back,

0:19:390:19:42

and I'm going to add them just at the last minute

0:19:420:19:44

before I liquidise everything.

0:19:440:19:46

That simply gives a super fresh, bright, deep-green colour.

0:19:460:19:50

I turn on the machine, blend quickly

0:19:500:19:52

and pour the soup back into the saucepan.

0:19:520:19:55

You don't need to sieve it - there's no stalky bits to take out.

0:19:550:19:59

Add a little double cream,

0:19:590:20:01

season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and serve.

0:20:010:20:04

What could be easier?

0:20:040:20:06

And add that tablespoon of chive cream right at the end.

0:20:060:20:10

And that parsley soup would be great on a cold and windy day like today.

0:20:150:20:19

Now, for this week's masterclass,

0:20:190:20:21

I thought I'd address one of those ingredients we get a lot of letters

0:20:210:20:24

about, to be honest - the potato, and which variety goes with which.

0:20:240:20:26

So, I thought, seeing as Sean's over here,

0:20:260:20:28

we're bringing over some Jersey Royal potatoes as well.

0:20:280:20:31

But we start off over here with the larger ones.

0:20:310:20:33

Now, King Edwards - I've labelled these cos it's easier

0:20:330:20:35

for you as well - King Edwards, chips, mash, roast,

0:20:350:20:38

all-purpose potatoes, I think, particularly if you're going

0:20:380:20:41

to use these for roast potatoes, they're fantastic for it.

0:20:410:20:43

Remember, boiling salted water, take it out,

0:20:430:20:45

literally shake the pan once you've drained them off, then roast them

0:20:450:20:48

over a little bit of oil or some duck fat, that kind of stuff.

0:20:480:20:50

Rooster potatoes - I would wait probably about another month

0:20:500:20:53

for these before I start turning them into chips and bits and pieces,

0:20:530:20:57

but they're also very good for mash and roast.

0:20:570:21:00

Any potato that's good for baking is very, very good for mashed potato,

0:21:000:21:04

cos it's that floury sort of thing that we need.

0:21:040:21:07

Desiree, which we've got - general all-purpose potatoes,

0:21:070:21:09

good for everything, really, this one.

0:21:090:21:11

Great for gratin dauphinois, as well,

0:21:110:21:13

because it actually sticks together just a little bit.

0:21:130:21:15

Maris Pipers - another all-purpose one, baking, boiling,

0:21:150:21:18

mashed potatoes, a great one if you're going to do mashed potato,

0:21:180:21:22

this is the one, really, I would look for, as well.

0:21:220:21:25

Anya potatoes.

0:21:250:21:26

These are great for salads, and we talked about Jersey Royal potatoes.

0:21:260:21:29

When Jerseys are not in season, these are a good one to go for.

0:21:290:21:31

They've got a slight nutty flavour to them,

0:21:310:21:33

and if you boil them and let them go cold, they're brilliant

0:21:330:21:36

if you fry them off, a bit like the potatoes that were left over from

0:21:360:21:38

Sunday roast that your mother would fry off in the morning.

0:21:380:21:41

Well, that was probably me... with butter over the top.

0:21:410:21:43

But with a little bit of garlic and rosemary, these are wonderful,

0:21:430:21:46

wonderful things, and things to look for, as well.

0:21:460:21:48

New potatoes - slightly early in the season for these ones,

0:21:480:21:51

these are called early crop new potatoes,

0:21:510:21:53

great in salads and boiled, just simply, as we do,

0:21:530:21:55

but of course, this time of year, we really don't want to be talking

0:21:550:21:58

about that, it's a bit of an insult round here, isn't it, that one?

0:21:580:22:01

You want to be talking about these ones - Jersey Royal potatoes.

0:22:010:22:03

Try and leave the skins on where possible - just wash them.

0:22:030:22:06

Don't scrape them, because if you scratch the skins off, I think

0:22:060:22:09

you lose a lot of the flavour as well, so keep them like that.

0:22:090:22:12

So, for this one, I thought I'd use one of each, really,

0:22:120:22:14

and we'll find out which potato has good chips for this one.

0:22:140:22:17

I'm going to do steak, chips and bearnaise sauce,

0:22:170:22:20

so those are your...

0:22:200:22:21

basically seven potatoes we've gone through there.

0:22:210:22:23

There are loads more around in the supermarkets as well.

0:22:230:22:26

I'm going to do, basically, a steak and chips

0:22:260:22:28

with a little bearnaise sauce to go with it,

0:22:280:22:30

so we'll slice these through.

0:22:300:22:32

I'm actually going to leave the skins on these ones as well.

0:22:320:22:35

Which is the best for roasting? Are those good for roasting?

0:22:350:22:37

Well, personally, out of all of them,

0:22:370:22:40

-I would use the King Edwards for roasting.

-Right.

-That would be my...

0:22:400:22:43

-I don't know...

-King Edward, yeah.

0:22:430:22:44

Do you put fat on them or do you just put them straight in the oven?

0:22:440:22:47

No, I would basically chop them up into decent sort of pieces,

0:22:470:22:50

I would put them in a pan, cold water, with salt,

0:22:500:22:53

I'd bring them to the boil, and then I cook them

0:22:530:22:55

for no more than about a minute or two,

0:22:550:22:57

and then basically drain them off,

0:22:570:22:59

and then put them back in the pan, and just shake them with the lid on,

0:22:590:23:02

and that will just break the outside of the potatoes, and then,

0:23:020:23:05

in a tray, with, erm...

0:23:050:23:07

..hot fat, goose fat or dripping or oil or something like that,

0:23:080:23:11

and then they roast in the oven, but that's how I do it,

0:23:110:23:14

so parboil them first of all. We're going to serve that with steak.

0:23:140:23:16

I'm going to get this on first of all,

0:23:160:23:18

cos I don't exactly know how you want your steak.

0:23:180:23:20

Hopefully it's not well done, cos if it's well done, we've had it!

0:23:200:23:24

-How do you want it?

-Medium rare would be good.

0:23:240:23:27

Medium rare - sounds good to me.

0:23:270:23:29

Little bit of oil in the pan, touch of salt... I'm going to get that...

0:23:290:23:32

I've heard stories of chefs sneering quietly in the kitchen

0:23:320:23:36

when orders come through for well-done steaks.

0:23:360:23:38

Doesn't bother me in the slightest, you can have whatever you want.

0:23:380:23:41

It would have just been cut a lot thinner if you wanted

0:23:410:23:43

-a well-done steak.

-I'd agree with that.

-Yeah.

0:23:430:23:45

So, first of all, I mean, congratulations on Silent witness,

0:23:450:23:48

because ten years you've been in the show.

0:23:480:23:50

Can't believe it's been running since 1996.

0:23:500:23:52

Yes, I mean, I didn't join it till it had been going about four years.

0:23:520:23:56

-Yeah.

-So in those days, Amanda Burton was the kind of...

0:23:560:24:01

single regular in it, and I think she felt she needed a bit of help.

0:24:010:24:06

It's a big show to sustain on your own, so Tom Ward and I joined

0:24:060:24:12

at that point and were her kind of sidekicks,

0:24:120:24:14

and then eventually, after a short while, she left, and we stayed on.

0:24:140:24:18

But do you think the base of it and the success of it is based on

0:24:180:24:22

the large characters in the cast, but quite a small cast?

0:24:220:24:25

-There's only three main characters.

-Yeah.

0:24:250:24:27

There's only three regular characters, but I think, really...

0:24:270:24:32

..the secret of it is...

0:24:330:24:35

like all crime stories, people love a puzzle,

0:24:350:24:37

they love a mystery, and they love trying to work out, you know,

0:24:370:24:40

what the mystery is, and getting ahead of the people who are

0:24:400:24:43

supposed to be working it out, and the thing they've always...

0:24:430:24:46

Cos the show has changed quite a lot over those ten years,

0:24:460:24:49

it's evolved slowly, and you notice it more if you go back and watch

0:24:490:24:54

one of the old episodes now, it really is a very different animal.

0:24:540:24:56

It is, cos, I mean, it's a lot darker,

0:24:560:24:58

the storylines are a lot darker, and...

0:24:580:25:00

Yes, I think that's probably true.

0:25:000:25:02

From my end of things, we never quite know,

0:25:020:25:04

cos when you see it on the page, it always looks pretty gruesome,

0:25:040:25:08

there are always pretty nasty things happening.

0:25:080:25:10

But you never quite know what's going to be shown,

0:25:100:25:13

how much is going to be lost in the edit.

0:25:130:25:15

So it's always a bit of a surprise for me,

0:25:150:25:18

when I watch it back, as to how gruesome it is or not.

0:25:180:25:21

-Yeah.

-But it has changed over the ten years, and I think, still,

0:25:210:25:26

the thing that they've hung on to is the fact that this idea,

0:25:260:25:32

this dead body can produce the secret,

0:25:320:25:34

the answer to whatever the crime happens to be in any given week.

0:25:340:25:37

Cos you must have an advantage cos your family are in...

0:25:370:25:41

Not in the trade, but medical trade, anyway.

0:25:410:25:44

They are, yes. My mother is a doctor and my sister is a doctor.

0:25:440:25:49

Do you still phone them up for advice?

0:25:490:25:51

Well, I phone my sister sometimes,

0:25:510:25:53

cos we have to say some very long words on occasions.

0:25:530:25:56

So I phone her up and say, "How the hell do you say this?"

0:25:560:25:59

She's pretty good on that.

0:25:590:26:00

It must've helped, of course,

0:26:000:26:02

cos you did three years of Casualty as well before this.

0:26:020:26:04

I did a stint on Casualty, certainly.

0:26:040:26:06

But that was quite a while ago.

0:26:060:26:08

But there was a point a while ago when I realised I'd played

0:26:080:26:13

on stage, on the radio and on television

0:26:130:26:17

nine doctors in a row.

0:26:170:26:19

You mentioned radio, cos we learned something today,

0:26:190:26:22

-the guys over there - The Archers.

-Ah, yeah!

0:26:220:26:25

We knew what it was, but didn't know what it was.

0:26:250:26:27

-You'd kind of vaguely heard of it.

-But never listened to it!

0:26:270:26:30

But you were a part of it as well.

0:26:300:26:32

I was, yes, I was a doctor in that as well.

0:26:320:26:34

That must be about... I can't remember.

0:26:340:26:37

About ten years ago, I should think.

0:26:370:26:39

Before all this, travel was a big thing.

0:26:390:26:41

You mentioned South Africa, you got influences with the coconut

0:26:410:26:44

in the food heaven, that kind of stuff.

0:26:440:26:46

But it wasn't a conventional start for you, was it,

0:26:460:26:48

in terms of the acting career at the very beginning?

0:26:480:26:50

Well, no. I didn't...

0:26:500:26:53

I did languages. I did French and German when I was at university.

0:26:530:26:58

But what is the connection with Hong Kong and that kind of thing?

0:26:580:27:01

I then got a job in Hong Kong working with a theatre company

0:27:010:27:06

that was half Chinese and half English.

0:27:060:27:11

So there were six British actors and six Chinese actors,

0:27:110:27:15

and we lived in Hong Kong for six months

0:27:150:27:17

and we used to do three plays in Chinese

0:27:170:27:20

and three plays in English.

0:27:200:27:21

And for the English plays, obviously,

0:27:210:27:23

the British actors took the lead parts,

0:27:230:27:25

and for the Chinese plays, the Chinese actors took the big parts.

0:27:250:27:28

But we still had a few lines, which we had to do in Cantonese.

0:27:280:27:33

So we'd learn...

0:27:330:27:34

It's a very difficult language, Cantonese, cos it's tonal.

0:27:340:27:36

-I'm sure it is!

-So you if say "pong",

0:27:360:27:39

it's different from "PONG!" or "pong" -

0:27:390:27:41

they mean different things.

0:27:410:27:42

So you had to get it right.

0:27:420:27:44

And occasionally, you'd learn your lines parrot fashion,

0:27:440:27:48

and if you got it wrong, the audience told you very fast.

0:27:480:27:50

-Oh, do they?

-Yeah.

0:27:500:27:52

Right, what we're going to do

0:27:520:27:53

is just run through the little bearnaise sauce we've got in here.

0:27:530:27:56

It's basically just chopped...

0:27:560:27:58

I actually keep the pieces of chopped raw onion,

0:27:580:28:00

chopped shallot in here.

0:28:000:28:02

We've got tarragon, got a bit of tarragon vinegar in here,

0:28:020:28:05

just to give it a little bit of a kick.

0:28:050:28:06

This is a hollandaise with egg yolks

0:28:060:28:08

and sort of melted cooled butter in there.

0:28:080:28:12

A bit of salt.

0:28:120:28:13

A bit of black pepper.

0:28:130:28:15

The steaks, in the oven, cooking medium rare.

0:28:150:28:18

The chips...are about a minute away.

0:28:180:28:21

Oh, that is not bad. There you go.

0:28:220:28:23

Don't be scared to put steak in the oven.

0:28:230:28:26

A lot of people, when they're doing this,

0:28:260:28:27

will just literally try and cook it all the way through,

0:28:270:28:30

particularly if the steaks are a lot thicker.

0:28:300:28:32

The idea is, a lot of chefs in the restaurants and everything,

0:28:320:28:36

what we do is we just basically pop them in the oven

0:28:360:28:38

and treat them like a little mini roast joint, really, with this one.

0:28:380:28:42

Finish it off, of course, with a little bit of butter.

0:28:420:28:44

So, what can we look forward to on Silent Witness coming up?

0:28:440:28:47

Because your character is becoming a much more influential part of

0:28:470:28:51

the storyline, not just in the character he plays,

0:28:510:28:54

but also the personal life that he plays as well.

0:28:540:28:57

Yeah.

0:28:570:28:58

Well, we always try to give a bit of a back story to the characters

0:28:580:29:02

in their domestic lives and private lives,

0:29:020:29:04

and certainly stuff is happening with Leo this year.

0:29:040:29:08

Um...

0:29:080:29:10

Er, a lot of kissing seems to be going on, for one thing.

0:29:110:29:14

-Which is all right for you!

-Which is...

0:29:140:29:17

It's become a contractual obligation now.

0:29:170:29:20

So, yeah, the last couple of episodes, yes, very much focus on...

0:29:200:29:26

We've got a story set in a prison coming up, I think, this weekend...

0:29:260:29:30

-I bet you can't give too much away.

-..which is as gruesome as others.

0:29:300:29:33

-Sorry?

-I know you can't give too much away.

0:29:330:29:35

No, I do not think there's anything too much I can reveal.

0:29:350:29:40

And then we've got a story which is about kind of exorcisms

0:29:400:29:44

and things like that for the last episode,

0:29:440:29:46

which is interesting, very interesting.

0:29:460:29:48

Right, I'm just going to take the steak off now.

0:29:480:29:50

That's hopefully medium rare for you.

0:29:500:29:52

Then, of course, we've got a little bit of the pan juices.

0:29:520:29:56

Remember to use this.

0:29:560:29:57

Now, this is proper grub.

0:29:590:30:01

There's going to be sort of 10% of the nation

0:30:010:30:03

waking up with a hangover.

0:30:030:30:05

Chef's grub, yeah.

0:30:050:30:06

Steak, chips, bearnaise sauce. To me...

0:30:060:30:10

I don't know what potatoes are in there, but there was those three.

0:30:100:30:13

It looks very nice.

0:30:130:30:15

Is it true about the hangover - does it really work?

0:30:150:30:17

I reckon it does, actually, steak and chips. but...

0:30:170:30:19

-Hang on, I'll tell you.

-It's pretty good, but...

0:30:190:30:23

With that bearnaise sauce, I think, particularly with steak,

0:30:250:30:27

I just thought it was one of the classic sauces.

0:30:270:30:29

Tarragon is the main flavour you've got in there as well.

0:30:290:30:32

But, literally, it's just...delicious.

0:30:320:30:36

-That is very good.

-Keep the shallots in there as well.

0:30:360:30:39

Don't forget that tarragon vinegar.

0:30:390:30:40

Great little potato masterclass there.

0:30:440:30:46

Hope you were all taking notes.

0:30:460:30:47

Now, today we're taking a look back at some of the most delicious dishes

0:30:470:30:50

from the Saturday Kitchen store cupboard,

0:30:500:30:52

and there's still lots more to come.

0:30:520:30:53

Up next is Dan Doherty with the ultimate comfort food.

0:30:530:30:56

Meatballs - but this is quite special.

0:30:580:31:00

Yeah, well, I think meatballs are the ultimate comfort food.

0:31:000:31:02

So, you know, we do pimp it up a little bit,

0:31:020:31:04

but ultimately, the thing we've got,

0:31:040:31:06

minced pork, some fennel salami,

0:31:060:31:08

which gives it a nice bit of subtle anise flavour.

0:31:080:31:11

Some fennel seeds.

0:31:110:31:13

Some breadcrumbs, fresh breadcrumbs,

0:31:130:31:14

to absorb those juices, but not too many.

0:31:140:31:16

And this, what I'm doing here, is part of the dish as well,

0:31:160:31:19

but this is caramelised onions, really.

0:31:190:31:21

Yeah, just to enrichen the gravy a little bit

0:31:210:31:23

-so it has a bit more depth and a bit more body.

-OK.

0:31:230:31:26

Now, we're going to actually make our own ricotta for this one.

0:31:260:31:29

That's right.

0:31:290:31:31

So starting with the meatballs, what have you got in here?

0:31:310:31:33

Tell us about this...that you've got there, the fennel.

0:31:330:31:36

This is just a nice fennel salami you get from a good deli

0:31:360:31:39

and, again, that sort of pork fat cured meat

0:31:390:31:43

just goes in there and helps bring out all the flavours,

0:31:430:31:45

and with the ricotta, it's so easy to make.

0:31:450:31:48

I think it's worthwhile.

0:31:480:31:50

You can get it hung in the fridge for two or three days.

0:31:500:31:53

And it kind of firms up, and you can use it, spread it on toast

0:31:530:31:56

or stick it in a dish like this.

0:31:560:31:57

Now, unlike Cyrus used the soft one,

0:31:570:31:59

this is generally quite a hard salami as well.

0:31:590:32:02

Yeah, I mean, it's nice to get a bit of bite as well.

0:32:020:32:04

The minced pork itself is quite soft and...

0:32:040:32:06

See, I like a bit of texture in there.

0:32:060:32:08

Would you say the key to this, as well,

0:32:080:32:10

is the fresh breadcrumbs you put in there?

0:32:100:32:12

Cos you won't want to use the dry crumbs,

0:32:120:32:14

it dries up too much.

0:32:140:32:15

Yeah, the dry crumbs have their use in certain dishes,

0:32:150:32:18

but for this, the fresh stops it from drying out too much, so you get a nice...

0:32:180:32:22

You don't want too much of a bounce in a meatball.

0:32:220:32:24

Right. Ricotta. So...

0:32:240:32:26

-Scald the milk.

-Scald the milk.

0:32:260:32:28

Very, very hot pan.

0:32:280:32:30

Just before it comes to boiling, a squeeze of lemon,

0:32:300:32:33

a pinch of salt, wait ten minutes and it's done.

0:32:330:32:36

-And that's it.

-It doesn't get any easier than that.

0:32:360:32:38

OK. Now, on here, we've got a mixture of...

0:32:380:32:41

We'd have chicken on here, normally, but with some...

0:32:410:32:45

-I can't say the word - leek.

-Yeah.

0:32:450:32:47

Celery, thyme, onion, peppercorns.

0:32:470:32:49

You've made a simple stock, chicken stock.

0:32:490:32:51

Yeah, that's simmering on the side

0:32:510:32:53

and we'll ladle that into the meatballs once it gets going.

0:32:530:32:55

The idea is you fry the meatballs, add some sliced fennel,

0:32:550:32:58

the onion jam, and then you make that kind of

0:32:580:33:01

-buttery chicken stock gravy around it.

-Right.

0:33:010:33:03

So, tell us about the restaurant, then,

0:33:050:33:07

cos it's a 24-hour-a-day operation, isn't it?

0:33:070:33:09

Yeah, tell me about it!

0:33:090:33:11

Well, tell us about it.

0:33:110:33:13

I'm in a constant state of jet lag now!

0:33:130:33:14

It's all good - we are at the top of the skyscraper.

0:33:140:33:18

We are open 24 hours a day in an area of the city

0:33:180:33:21

which isn't really known for being open late at night.

0:33:210:33:24

You know, we're in the financial area,

0:33:240:33:26

so it's generally pretty quiet.

0:33:260:33:28

-Right.

-You know, lunchtime is the normal trade so, for us,

0:33:280:33:30

it's a little bit different, but it's, you know...

0:33:300:33:33

-It's going well so far.

-How do you cope with that?

0:33:330:33:35

The menu changes all the time throughout the day, how do you...?

0:33:350:33:38

Well, we have a breakfast menu that goes from 6 to 11,

0:33:380:33:41

and then we go into an all-day menu,

0:33:410:33:42

which is right the way till midnight.

0:33:420:33:44

-Right.

-And then, late night, it gets a little bit more...

0:33:440:33:47

Comfort, more gluttonous.

0:33:470:33:49

Not gluttonous, but more sort of indulgent.

0:33:490:33:51

So Lulu likes her breakfast any time of the day.

0:33:510:33:54

Three o'clock in the morning, still get breakfast?

0:33:540:33:56

-Yeah, you can.

-Oh, I know where to go!

0:33:560:33:58

-Not a full English, but it's...

-Three in the morning?

0:33:580:34:00

Duck eggs baked in cream, and mushrooms and...

0:34:000:34:03

It's great to have breakfast any time of the day.

0:34:030:34:05

It's all about the indulgence, I think.

0:34:050:34:07

Right, I wouldn't cook those onions...

0:34:070:34:09

I'd cook them a lot longer than that,

0:34:090:34:10

but we haven't got time for that, so anyway...

0:34:100:34:12

The breadcrumbs, I'm cooking off, just to get a nice bit of colour.

0:34:120:34:16

-Yeah.

-The fennel, do you just want this cut up into chunks?

0:34:160:34:19

-Finely sliced.

-Finely sliced - all right, OK.

0:34:190:34:21

You're just getting a bit of colour on these meatballs.

0:34:210:34:24

Yeah, then we're going to chuck the fennel in, let that soften,

0:34:240:34:26

add the stock and the jam.

0:34:260:34:28

And...easy.

0:34:280:34:30

Now, since you've been on as well, you're...

0:34:320:34:33

What's this about you and a magazine?

0:34:330:34:35

You've now become, like, a guru in a magazine?

0:34:350:34:38

-Is that right?

-They're your words, James.

0:34:380:34:39

I wouldn't call it a guru!

0:34:390:34:41

I'd say it's a guru, I don't know what...

0:34:410:34:43

Yeah, I'm doing a contribution for Olive Magazine, so...

0:34:430:34:46

Lulu does...

0:34:460:34:47

I'm like an agony uncle for food.

0:34:470:34:49

Not for food.

0:34:490:34:51

An agony uncle for food?

0:34:510:34:53

I'm not quite selling it, am I?

0:34:530:34:54

Right, there's the toasted breadcrumbs.

0:34:540:34:56

-We've got some toasted pine nuts there as well.

-Lovely.

0:34:560:34:59

This is nearly there, we're not far off,

0:34:590:35:01

I'll just make sure these are right.

0:35:010:35:03

-Then we can swap this over, so...

-Yeah.

0:35:030:35:05

What are you putting in here

0:35:050:35:07

different to what you've got in that one?

0:35:070:35:09

What I'll do is ladle the stock into there,

0:35:090:35:11

so it'll be at this stage.

0:35:110:35:12

So the fennel has cooked down and got nice and soft.

0:35:120:35:15

You can see the colour that the onion jam gives it.

0:35:150:35:17

As that comes down a little bit more,

0:35:170:35:19

we're going to add quite a lot of butter -

0:35:190:35:21

I think these things do have a lot of butter in them -

0:35:210:35:23

and let it kind of emulsify

0:35:230:35:25

and it kind of makes it a creamy, rich, buttery sauce,

0:35:250:35:27

without using any cream.

0:35:270:35:28

OK. So, your style of food, if you could say...

0:35:280:35:31

I kind of look at the menu, thinking it's modern American.

0:35:310:35:34

-Is that not right?

-Yeah, I mean... It's difficult.

0:35:340:35:36

I am British and I like to use a lot of British ingredients.

0:35:360:35:38

I am inspired by lots of different things and I think, ultimately,

0:35:380:35:41

it's kind of classic flavours,

0:35:410:35:43

maybe sometimes a little bit playful.

0:35:430:35:45

People can...if you're waiting two months for a reservation,

0:35:450:35:47

they don't want egg and chips, you know?

0:35:470:35:49

Two months for a reservation?! Is that what it is?

0:35:490:35:51

Yeah, we do...

0:35:510:35:53

It has been known to get a little bit busy.

0:35:530:35:55

-Right.

-We're cooking for about

0:35:550:35:57

1,000 people a day at the moment.

0:35:570:35:59

1,000 people a day? That's quite a lot of butter going in.

0:35:590:36:01

I never thought I'd say that, but that's a proper dish - look at that!

0:36:010:36:04

Yeah, the way it should be.

0:36:040:36:06

What I love about this show is, we've got a gym.

0:36:060:36:09

It's not a guy called Jim -

0:36:090:36:11

we've got a gym right outside here, and in between all this,

0:36:110:36:13

when you are watching Rick Stein,

0:36:130:36:15

I'm just outside, watching everybody at the gym.

0:36:150:36:18

Liar, liar, liar!

0:36:180:36:20

-LAUGHTER

-I said "watching everybody".

0:36:200:36:22

I didn't say going to it!

0:36:220:36:24

I'm kind of looking through the window like a kid in a sweet shop.

0:36:240:36:27

Eating butter makes you fat, James.

0:36:270:36:28

They've actually got this and...

0:36:280:36:31

Yeah. I would suggest you turn up the treadmill and run a bit quicker

0:36:310:36:34

if you're going to eat this!

0:36:340:36:36

But that's quite a lot butter in there, Chef.

0:36:360:36:38

-I'm sorry. What can I say?

-Don't need to apologise, it's fine.

0:36:380:36:40

You don't need to use quite so much butter...

0:36:400:36:43

It's delicious, though, nothing like butter.

0:36:430:36:45

You're going to finish this under the grill.

0:36:450:36:47

-So this is the ricotta.

-This is the ricotta, so...

0:36:470:36:50

It's not quite there yet,

0:36:500:36:51

but I'll put the salt and lemon juice in anyway,

0:36:510:36:53

so you see what it looks like.

0:36:530:36:54

You'll see it instantly curdle. The idea is, you hang it in a cheesecloth

0:36:540:36:57

or a tea towel or whatever you've got,

0:36:570:36:59

let the milk, the whey, fall down,

0:36:590:37:01

then you'll be left with this beautiful soft cheese.

0:37:010:37:05

The longer you leave it, obviously, the firmer it becomes.

0:37:050:37:07

-You want to get those meatballs under the grill.

-Yes.

0:37:070:37:10

The key to this, then, I take it, is using full-fat...

0:37:100:37:13

The best milk you can get, really.

0:37:130:37:15

Yes, the more fat you've got, the more ricotta you'll get.

0:37:150:37:17

There are probably cheese-makers cringing at what I'm saying, but...

0:37:170:37:21

We'll just mix that together, and the idea is it comes up...

0:37:210:37:24

You don't want it to boil, you just want it to...

0:37:240:37:26

-Just under boiling, yeah.

-OK.

0:37:260:37:30

It's not far off there,

0:37:300:37:31

and it just starts to separate, which this is.

0:37:310:37:35

You can see it there, and it's... There you go, it's happening now.

0:37:350:37:38

All you do is you just take the ladle

0:37:380:37:41

and you pop this through...

0:37:410:37:43

You could do this through a tea towel, I suppose.

0:37:430:37:45

Yeah, tea towel's fine.

0:37:450:37:47

Pour that in there.

0:37:470:37:48

As long as the whey can slowly fall away.

0:37:480:37:51

And then overnight, you just leave it in the fridge.

0:37:510:37:54

Leave it hanging in the fridge, a little bowl underneath,

0:37:540:37:56

just to catch the milk.

0:37:560:37:57

That's what we end up with.

0:37:570:37:58

The idea is that, as this bakes under the grill,

0:37:580:38:00

the ricotta kind of melts into it.

0:38:000:38:02

It makes a nice cheesy...

0:38:020:38:03

You want to get that under the grill?

0:38:030:38:05

-I'll just put that on top.

-OK.

0:38:050:38:07

-So is that Parmesan just going on?

-Parmesan, yeah, all the way.

0:38:080:38:11

That's ready to go.

0:38:130:38:15

I'll leave you to clear up and talk about what we're going to finish this off with.

0:38:150:38:18

What would you serve this with in the restaurant?

0:38:180:38:21

You know, a nice big chunk of bread,

0:38:210:38:23

mashed potato, pasta... There's no real right or wrong.

0:38:230:38:26

It needs heavy carbs, though, I'd say, to mop up all that gravy.

0:38:260:38:31

I'd be inclined towards mashed potato or bread.

0:38:310:38:34

-Move that out of the way.

-That needs about two minutes,

0:38:340:38:37

then we just garnish it with these toasted pine nuts.

0:38:370:38:39

-Yeah.

-Just...

0:38:390:38:41

The oils that come off them are just gorgeous.

0:38:410:38:43

-And breadcrumbs.

-And breadcrumbs, that gives it a bit of texture, so that crunchy, buttery...

0:38:430:38:47

I'm addicted to using this as a garnish. I put it on...

0:38:470:38:49

The chefs at work take the mick out of me,

0:38:490:38:51

because I put it on everything.

0:38:510:38:52

About this - how long would this last if you wanted to make this at home?

0:38:520:38:55

Depends on the quality of the milk you use,

0:38:550:38:57

but I'd say, if it's pasteurised milk, three to five days?

0:38:570:39:00

It'd just get a bit firmer...

0:39:000:39:01

I've made it with buffalo milk, which is fantastic,

0:39:010:39:03

which you can get at the supermarket.

0:39:030:39:05

-It's really heavy.

-You get good buffalo milk here too now.

0:39:050:39:08

And you get some really good ricotta out of it.

0:39:080:39:11

You just see the cheese is starting to melt.

0:39:110:39:14

Stick it straight on there. There you go.

0:39:140:39:16

Move that for you. Then you can finish this off.

0:39:160:39:19

And just chunks of bread.

0:39:210:39:24

Chunks of bread - yeah, tear it off.

0:39:240:39:26

That's it, best way to eat bread, tear it up.

0:39:260:39:28

-Chunks of bread.

-Breaking bread.

-Yeah. Just rip it up.

0:39:280:39:32

Give us the name of this dish, then.

0:39:320:39:34

We have fennel sausage meatballs with home-made ricotta,

0:39:340:39:36

toasted breadcrumbs, fennel gravy and pine nuts.

0:39:360:39:40

Sounds pretty good to me.

0:39:400:39:42

Right, we can bring it over.

0:39:460:39:48

Come on over - I'll bring a slate to put it on.

0:39:480:39:52

Oh, we got a little skillet there.

0:39:520:39:55

Trivet over here.

0:39:550:39:56

Pop this straight on there and just dive in, I suppose, really.

0:39:560:40:00

-Yeah.

-Work your way through it. There's the bread.

0:40:000:40:03

-Great.

-Dunk the bread in it.

0:40:030:40:05

-This is the best way to have bread, isn't it? Just pull it.

-Yeah.

0:40:050:40:07

Just rip it, rip it up.

0:40:070:40:09

That ricotta is just a great way...

0:40:090:40:11

Just a simple way to use up any leftover milk as well.

0:40:110:40:13

-Yeah, I think so.

-And it's fat free, so it's good.

0:40:130:40:15

-Oh!

-Yeah, this is a good healthy diet(!)

0:40:150:40:18

-Happy with that?

-Mmm.

0:40:180:40:19

-It's pretty good, that, isn't it?

-Oh...

0:40:190:40:22

-LAUGHTER

-Lulu!

0:40:220:40:24

-Very articulate, Lulu!

-Not a bad show, this, is it?

0:40:240:40:27

Now that's what you call a hearty, indulgent dish. Delicious.

0:40:310:40:34

Now for a bit of TV nostalgia. It's Mr Keith Floyd.

0:40:340:40:38

I'm in some of the richest fishing grounds of Europe,

0:40:380:40:40

where over 50 varieties of fish are landed,

0:40:400:40:43

from lobster to John Dory to red mullet to skate.

0:40:430:40:46

And it's staggering to think that we, the British,

0:40:460:40:48

look no further than cod and plaice.

0:40:480:40:50

What we reject, our European neighbours relish,

0:40:500:40:53

and they revel in interesting dishes like bouillabaisse and squid

0:40:530:40:56

and, of course, they drink down buckets of wine with it.

0:40:560:41:00

On the other hand, you know, this is a hard and dangerous job.

0:41:000:41:04

We don't understand or appreciate a lot of these fellows.

0:41:040:41:06

As a nation, it's patently obvious

0:41:060:41:08

we don't care too much for the catch.

0:41:080:41:10

Mind you, I wouldn't fancy being a fisherman.

0:41:100:41:13

To be out in all weathers, hell of white-water,

0:41:130:41:15

waves with teeth like bananas,

0:41:150:41:17

never sure of the catch - or the wages, for that matter -

0:41:170:41:19

and then waiting for the net to be raised,

0:41:190:41:22

which spells success or failure.

0:41:220:41:24

And now the moment of truth -

0:41:350:41:37

after hours of tedious trawling and bored anticipation,

0:41:370:41:40

what will the net reveal?

0:41:400:41:42

A glittering fishy feast?

0:41:420:41:43

Or the garbage of the ocean's bed spewed over the deck,

0:41:430:41:45

which won't even justify the cost of the diesel?

0:41:450:41:49

Oh, gosh, it looks really grim.

0:41:490:41:50

I was hoping to see a shimmering net of fish,

0:41:500:41:53

but I'm absolutely hungry,

0:41:530:41:54

and I've got to find something to cook out of this lot.

0:41:540:41:56

Ah, I wonder...

0:41:560:41:58

There will be a monkfish. That's for sure.

0:41:580:42:00

Yes, there he is! Just like my old art master.

0:42:000:42:02

I'm absolutely famished.

0:42:080:42:10

Hours sitting on this blinking boat, waiting for the fish to come up,

0:42:100:42:13

but we've got some, so I'm going to cook it.

0:42:130:42:16

You couldn't get the monkfish we've got here

0:42:160:42:18

any fresher in the world.

0:42:180:42:20

It's only five minutes old. Ten minutes at the absolute outside.

0:42:200:42:23

And of course, we've got this sophisticated equipment here,

0:42:230:42:26

a little camping gas stove, and the whole boat

0:42:260:42:28

rocking all over the place.

0:42:280:42:29

But I've got the monkfish going in there, little pieces of bacon,

0:42:290:42:33

which somebody happily brought along with them, some fresh herbs,

0:42:330:42:36

which they must have picked off the mast,

0:42:360:42:38

unless somebody brought with them, not quite sure how that happened,

0:42:380:42:41

a bay leaf, a bit of fresh thyme and a drop of wine.

0:42:410:42:44

Can you see all right

0:42:450:42:47

that I've got this bit of wine going into the fish now?

0:42:470:42:49

Nothing should change just cos we're on the boat.

0:42:490:42:52

No reason why we shouldn't continue to have wonderful fun,

0:42:520:42:54

like we always do in the kitchen, really.

0:42:540:42:57

So, the sauce is reduced sufficiently now

0:42:570:43:00

for us to add the cream, which I'm going to do,

0:43:000:43:03

and the cream is going to make this thing absolutely splendid,

0:43:030:43:06

as long as the rolling of the boat

0:43:060:43:08

doesn't cause us a great deal of hassle.

0:43:080:43:11

Stir the cream into the wine and the shallots.

0:43:110:43:14

Lovely colour coming through there, a bit, actually, now.

0:43:140:43:17

Plenty of cream bubbling away to thicken up.

0:43:190:43:21

It's very, very difficult.

0:43:240:43:25

I hate to think what it'd be like to do this in a force 9.

0:43:250:43:28

This is about a force nought, I should think.

0:43:280:43:30

Doesn't count at all.

0:43:300:43:31

So, I'm virtually ready.

0:43:310:43:33

I'm taking the fish out, I have to use my fingers

0:43:330:43:35

and pray that I don't drop the whole lot over...

0:43:350:43:39

..everything.

0:43:400:43:42

I've got the fish onto the plate.

0:43:420:43:44

I now want to just, finally, to make the sauce really superb,

0:43:440:43:47

as if we were in one of the best restaurants in the world,

0:43:470:43:51

thicken this delicious sauce with an egg yolk,

0:43:510:43:56

to get a really unctuous and creamy, delicious golden sauce.

0:43:560:44:02

Can I show you that golden sauce?

0:44:020:44:05

I do think that's really rather good.

0:44:050:44:08

I'm going to pour it now over the fish.

0:44:080:44:11

And I think...

0:44:130:44:15

I hope you don't mind me saying this, but that is a really...

0:44:160:44:21

..elegant piece of food for a force nought gale,

0:44:250:44:29

with the freshest fish in the world that you could ever hope to get,

0:44:290:44:32

no ingredients whatsoever,

0:44:320:44:34

no help, and everything falling all over the place.

0:44:340:44:37

In fact, I will taste a little bit of it myself.

0:44:370:44:39

And I say it myself - it is actually wonderful!

0:44:410:44:44

Wonderful!

0:44:440:44:45

Look at that! What quality!

0:45:120:45:14

21-and-a-quarter stone of cod. How much am I bid?

0:45:140:45:17

Yeah, we don't want to see any more.

0:45:170:45:19

We've got them here. We've got them here.

0:45:190:45:22

What do you say?

0:45:220:45:23

These faces of fish merchants, wise and yet cunning.

0:45:230:45:27

They could trade in diamonds.

0:45:270:45:28

But they chose the fresh silver jewels of the sea,

0:45:280:45:31

landed here, irrespective of weather, wages or demand,

0:45:310:45:34

and of course, they do it for love and out of a sense of tradition.

0:45:340:45:38

It can't be the money - the prices are low for the fishermen.

0:45:380:45:41

It's the diner in smart French restaurants who pays

0:45:410:45:43

and the bloated middleman who wins.

0:45:430:45:46

Fred Brimicombe doesn't seem to mind about money.

0:45:460:45:49

He just loves fish.

0:45:490:45:50

Fred, you're working down here in the fish market.

0:45:500:45:53

-You're getting all this beautiful fish in.

-Yeah.

0:45:530:45:55

Why does the housewife only end up

0:45:550:45:56

with a bit of cod or a bit of plaice?

0:45:560:45:58

-Why isn't she...?

-I think, personally,

0:45:580:46:00

if you ask any man in the street,

0:46:000:46:03

right away, what sort of species of fish they can think of,

0:46:030:46:06

they'll come up with three - cod, plaice and haddock.

0:46:060:46:08

Because we are not educated in this part of the world, you know?

0:46:080:46:11

But with all the fish around us, I mean,

0:46:110:46:13

all this fish we've had, we've seen, here -

0:46:130:46:16

monkfish, turbot, halibut, hake...

0:46:160:46:18

Most of it gets exported, most of it goes to France.

0:46:180:46:21

You've got a Roman Catholic country, France and Italy,

0:46:210:46:25

and they take all the fish from us, whatever they can,

0:46:250:46:28

because they are educated in the ways of fish.

0:46:280:46:30

I mean, those cod heads -

0:46:300:46:32

I just knocked off some cod heads -

0:46:320:46:33

makes wonderful fish soup.

0:46:330:46:35

I mean, a cod's head down here,

0:46:350:46:36

they can come down and pick them up, take them away.

0:46:360:46:38

-For nothing, almost.

-Yeah, we only dump them in the bin.

0:46:380:46:41

Or else it goes for crab bait.

0:46:410:46:42

But this octopus... See, nobody's buying this, why not?

0:46:420:46:45

Oh, well, I just found that one in with some small cuttlefish

0:46:450:46:48

that I've been packing away for London.

0:46:480:46:49

But this could be cut up and deep-fried.

0:46:490:46:51

-Beautiful, yeah.

-A lovely snack.

0:46:510:46:53

You've got to pound it first, like, to tenderise it.

0:46:530:46:55

-That's right, yeah.

-But the tentacles are lovely,

0:46:550:46:57

especially when they are pickled, you know.

0:46:570:47:00

The French are very discerning - they buy our best fish.

0:47:000:47:03

The Chinese, too - they know all about it, don't they?

0:47:030:47:05

Yeah, they buy large cuttlefish and they dry them out

0:47:050:47:08

and you eat the cuttlefish in with their curry stuff

0:47:080:47:11

that they send away, that they give you in our takeaways.

0:47:110:47:14

It's very sweet, very nice.

0:47:140:47:16

I mean, how many people know, for instance,

0:47:160:47:18

if you chuck these on a charcoal grill, for instance,

0:47:180:47:20

it's a beautiful fish.

0:47:200:47:21

I mean, for that, in a French restaurant,

0:47:210:47:24

you'd pay £8 or £9 for that, as a main course,

0:47:240:47:26

and you wouldn't blink, you'd be so pleased to do it, you know?

0:47:260:47:29

Well, when I was at sea, landing fish here,

0:47:290:47:31

we couldn't get more than about 10p a pound for that,

0:47:310:47:34

if we were lucky.

0:47:340:47:35

-That's ridiculous.

-Now, it's £2.30 a pound today, in today's market.

0:47:350:47:39

£2.30 a pound today? It's not going to England, though.

0:47:390:47:42

-It's going abroad, isn't it?

-They go abroad, yeah.

0:47:420:47:44

-They all go abroad.

-Mainly to France.

0:47:440:47:46

That'll make three times the money in France.

0:47:460:47:48

Three times again, that's right.

0:47:480:47:50

I tell you what we need, Fred, really -

0:47:500:47:51

we need hundreds of you all over the place

0:47:510:47:53

with big cauldrons of soup...

0:47:530:47:55

-Yeah.

-..a charcoal grill, with the red mullet

0:47:550:47:57

and frying a bit of octopus, having a good time.

0:47:570:48:00

It's been great talking to you.

0:48:000:48:01

-Thanks.

-Cheered us up a lot.

0:48:010:48:03

I'll get one more in there, if I can, like.

0:48:030:48:05

You know, we've got farmers in charge of the fishing industry.

0:48:050:48:07

You tell me what a farmer knows about a fishing trawler.

0:48:070:48:09

-Not a lot.

-Right!

0:48:090:48:11

Even cauldrons of Fred's fish-head soup on every corner

0:48:240:48:27

couldn't relieve the monotony of this concrete jungle.

0:48:270:48:30

After the charming Barbican, this is not exactly appetising.

0:48:300:48:33

Cooks build better buildings out of margarine.

0:48:330:48:36

But there is an oasis of civilisation here.

0:48:360:48:39

It's Chinese, of course.

0:48:390:48:41

'Kai Qing spoke no English

0:48:410:48:43

'and my Mandarin leaves a little to be desired,

0:48:430:48:46

'but no language is necessary to enjoy his dextrous culinary genius.'

0:48:460:48:50

Delicate lemon sole, squid -

0:48:520:48:54

which, for once, at least, won't be deep-fried in batter -

0:48:540:48:58

spring onions, fresh ginger,

0:48:580:49:01

giant prawns, more expensive than lobster,

0:49:010:49:04

and succulent scallops, straight from the Barbican.

0:49:040:49:07

But first, the expert's way of preparing squid.

0:49:070:49:10

Not to be recommended for you at home, if you value your fingers.

0:49:100:49:14

Because of that very delicate cutting,

0:49:300:49:32

the squid cooks quickly in the intense heat of the water.

0:49:320:49:36

And the wok isn't just used for stir-frying -

0:49:360:49:38

it does every job except roasting in the Chinese kitchen.

0:49:380:49:41

But a wok at home, on an electric ring,

0:49:410:49:43

or without the huge fires of a Chinese stove,

0:49:430:49:46

is less efficient, and you could be better off with a frying pan.

0:49:460:49:49

Now the squid, strained,

0:49:520:49:54

is transferred for seconds only into hot oil.

0:49:540:49:57

The whole cooking process is over.

0:49:570:49:59

It now remains to add the flavourings.

0:49:590:50:01

These are the delicate mixture of spring onion, carrot, garlic,

0:50:050:50:09

ginger, monosodium glutamate,

0:50:090:50:12

sherry, soy sauce and a little stock.

0:50:120:50:14

Notice he used only one ladle for the entire operation.

0:50:140:50:18

The squid is tossed into this colourful mixture

0:50:230:50:25

and is cooked in the time it takes you to watch.

0:50:250:50:28

But the speed of Kai Qing's hands

0:50:280:50:30

belie the years of dedicated experience

0:50:300:50:32

he's taken to master his art -

0:50:320:50:34

and art it is, my Oriental gastronauts.

0:50:340:50:37

Don't believe the old adage -

0:50:370:50:39

"God sent us food, the Devil sent us the cooks" -

0:50:390:50:42

that squid was good, very good.

0:50:420:50:44

Much better than the greasy, deep-fried rings

0:50:440:50:47

we reluctantly enjoy in Benidorm.

0:50:470:50:50

For further enlightenment, I spoke to Kai Qing's brother,

0:50:500:50:53

Kai Loon, in his elegant dining room.

0:50:530:50:55

You know, after the heat of the kitchen,

0:50:570:51:00

watching Kai Qing cook with such devastating speed,

0:51:000:51:03

it's really good to kind of relax here and sit back

0:51:030:51:08

and enjoy ourselves a bit.

0:51:080:51:10

Indeed, indeed, but this one is different.

0:51:100:51:13

-You cook it yourself.

-Right.

0:51:130:51:15

Rather than my brother cooking for you.

0:51:150:51:17

I would rather have you have a go in there.

0:51:170:51:19

So, in fact, for the Perfidious Albion,

0:51:190:51:22

you've given me this kind of trawling net.

0:51:220:51:25

Indeed. What you do is you put the fish in there

0:51:250:51:30

and dip it in there

0:51:300:51:32

and count one, two, three, and it's cooked.

0:51:320:51:35

What you do is put it in that. Not too much.

0:51:370:51:41

Not too much. Put it in my net.

0:51:410:51:43

This is a bit like a sort of Far Eastern Swiss fondue,

0:51:430:51:47

only we're cooking in water here, not in oil.

0:51:470:51:50

-That's right.

-It's a great thing.

0:51:500:51:52

And you're also involving the chopsticks.

0:51:520:51:54

And involving the chopsticks.

0:51:540:51:55

-Also, this will require a lot of seasoning as well.

-Excellent.

0:51:550:51:59

I've counted one, two, three, there, to get my fish cooked.

0:51:590:52:02

You have a little too much fish!

0:52:020:52:04

-Great.

-What you do now, dip into that.

0:52:050:52:09

-Did it into there, from my trawler.

-That's right.

0:52:090:52:13

And just plunge it in and have a little taste. Very difficult...

0:52:130:52:17

All this cooking is done in a matter of minutes or seconds,

0:52:170:52:21

rather than the long boil.

0:52:210:52:23

-Right.

-And I believe that will consist

0:52:230:52:26

of the whole beautiful flavour of the natural food, preserved.

0:52:260:52:29

Do they appreciate that?

0:52:290:52:31

-Do the customers appreciate that?

-Not everyone, not everyone.

0:52:310:52:34

I believe it's only connoisseurs that really do, that really do.

0:52:340:52:38

And...the majority, unfortunately,

0:52:380:52:42

they lack the knowledge.

0:52:420:52:45

Of course, one of the things about eating such delicate fish,

0:52:450:52:49

as we are eating now, is to be able to use these chopsticks which,

0:52:490:52:53

to my way of thinking, you can pick up

0:52:530:52:55

little succulent morsels...

0:52:550:52:56

..and eat them and have a good time.

0:52:580:53:00

But a lot of people don't, can't, won't, are too ignorant

0:53:000:53:03

to even take the trouble to use them, aren't they?

0:53:030:53:05

-They want to use knives and forks and things.

-Mm-hm.

0:53:050:53:08

Which spoils it for them.

0:53:080:53:10

How do you feel about that?

0:53:100:53:12

There are lots of people

0:53:120:53:14

who want to try, but they are scared about it.

0:53:140:53:17

I truly believe the chopsticks is the only method

0:53:170:53:20

of picking up the food.

0:53:200:53:23

I myself am strongly against the metals, like with cutlery.

0:53:230:53:28

If you don't believe what I said,

0:53:280:53:30

put one teaspoon into your mouth for one minute or two.

0:53:300:53:33

What does it taste of?

0:53:330:53:35

-Metal.

-Metal.

0:53:350:53:36

Even tea should be served in porcelain.

0:53:360:53:39

Or indeed, even our very splendid wine.

0:53:390:53:41

Wine should be in porcelain, or glasses.

0:53:410:53:44

I mean, if you just put down chopsticks to people

0:53:470:53:52

in the restaurant,

0:53:520:53:53

and they say, "Oh, what's that? I can't use that,"

0:53:530:53:57

what would you say to them? Do you help them?

0:53:570:54:00

People walk into my restaurant, I make them use the chopsticks,

0:54:000:54:04

and I'm not making any difficulty for them.

0:54:040:54:07

I want them to enjoy my food.

0:54:070:54:10

Sure, and the chopsticks are the way

0:54:100:54:12

-to get them to enjoy it.

-That's right.

0:54:120:54:14

The actual correct way of doing it is you always rest this one

0:54:140:54:17

on your third finger.

0:54:170:54:19

-On your third finger.

-Your third finger.

0:54:190:54:21

That acts as a station, they are motionless.

0:54:210:54:23

Right, and your thumb and your first finger...

0:54:230:54:25

-Where you move is the other one. This one stays.

-That's right.

0:54:250:54:29

And the next procedure is, put your chopsticks fingers together,

0:54:290:54:33

you rest this one between the chopsticks -

0:54:330:54:35

between the two fingers.

0:54:350:54:37

-Right.

-And use the finger to hold it there.

0:54:370:54:39

When you move...

0:54:390:54:42

-You got...you've got the power of...

-That's right, that's right.

0:54:420:54:45

..of the science, the old Chinese science.

0:54:450:54:48

I mean, that is fulcrums and cranes.

0:54:480:54:52

It's all to do with mechanics and civilisation,

0:54:520:54:54

which was invented in China 1,000 years ago.

0:54:540:54:57

I think the place where you talk and where you eat

0:54:570:55:00

is just as important and just as good

0:55:000:55:03

as the bed where you make love

0:55:030:55:05

and hold your near ones and dear ones.

0:55:050:55:08

You know, I think that love and food and conversation

0:55:080:55:13

and taking the time to use the right utensils,

0:55:130:55:16

taking the right wine to drink, are all very important.

0:55:160:55:20

We truly believe in...

0:55:200:55:21

..in the round table,

0:55:230:55:25

with family dining in harmony, in harmony.

0:55:250:55:27

-In harmony? "Harmony" is the word.

-Harmony.

-A harmonious experience.

0:55:270:55:32

That's why we are sharing everything on the table,

0:55:320:55:35

and you also start with the mild ones

0:55:350:55:39

and gradually go up into spicy ones.

0:55:390:55:41

That's how you have it in a traditional banquet.

0:55:410:55:44

There will be one course after another

0:55:440:55:47

and they will play games

0:55:470:55:50

and allow you to have a time of conversation,

0:55:500:55:52

and that's how the meal should be.

0:55:520:55:54

-Right.

-It might take three hours. But that is the whole evening.

0:55:540:55:58

-Mm.

-And eating, I believe, is the best thing in life.

0:55:580:56:03

Like a fine wine, he just gets better and better with age.

0:56:080:56:11

Now, as ever on Best Bites,

0:56:110:56:13

we are taking a look back at some of the most memorable recipes

0:56:130:56:15

from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:56:150:56:18

Still to come on today's show,

0:56:180:56:19

Tom Kerridge and Paul Ainsworth go head to head at the hobs,

0:56:190:56:22

proving there's no friends when it comes to the omelette challenge.

0:56:220:56:25

Antonio Carluccio cooks up a stunning yet simple starter dish.

0:56:250:56:28

He makes a wild mushroom filling,

0:56:280:56:31

spoons it over a cooked pasta sheet,

0:56:310:56:32

and then places another sheet on top.

0:56:320:56:34

He then adds a little more filling and finishes with Parmesan.

0:56:340:56:38

And Les Dennis faces his food heaven or food hell.

0:56:380:56:41

Did he get his food heaven -

0:56:410:56:43

trio of creme brulee with palmier biscuits -

0:56:430:56:45

or his food hell - honey-roasted pork belly

0:56:450:56:48

with roasted salmon and sauteed savoy cabbage?

0:56:480:56:50

You can find out what he got at the end of the show.

0:56:500:56:53

Next up, it's Glynn Purnell,

0:56:530:56:54

who talks Shappi Khorsandi into chewing on a stick.

0:56:540:56:57

Glynn Purnell, complete with liquorice ash.

0:56:570:57:00

-I even wore a jumper that represents the liquorice ash as well.

-OK.

0:57:000:57:04

-There's no jumper for you today, James.

-Thank you very much.

0:57:040:57:07

You gave me one for Christmas, didn't you?

0:57:070:57:08

I did, I'm very disappointed you haven't got it on.

0:57:080:57:11

First of all... First of all, we're going to put the duck on,

0:57:110:57:14

but we'll have a look at tamarinds.

0:57:140:57:16

-Yeah.

-They are quite sweet, but with a sour sort of flavour.

0:57:160:57:20

They're a pod,

0:57:200:57:21

-so you break them open.

-Sometimes you get...

0:57:210:57:23

-You get this in paste form.

-Yeah. But this is how they would look.

0:57:230:57:26

OK, all right.

0:57:260:57:27

So if you can pop a few of them for me,

0:57:270:57:29

I'll do a little, like, sort of... almost sauce-type puree.

0:57:290:57:32

If you take the spine out, like that,

0:57:320:57:35

then we'll melt them down with a little bit of water

0:57:350:57:37

and then pass out the stones once we've done that.

0:57:370:57:39

-OK.

-Meanwhile, we'll put the duck on.

0:57:390:57:41

I'll do a few of those. The timer's going on the oven.

0:57:410:57:43

Concentrate on the duck. Tell us what type of duck this is.

0:57:430:57:46

-This is Gressingham duck.

-Yeah.

0:57:460:57:47

It's bred so the fat's not mega thick.

0:57:470:57:51

It's got a nice amount of fat on,

0:57:510:57:52

but it's still lean, as far as duck is concerned.

0:57:520:57:55

Kind of a cross between a wild mallard and a Peking duck.

0:57:550:57:57

-Yes.

-It's got less fat on it.

0:57:570:57:58

So, look, I've just taken the outside edge off

0:57:580:58:02

and then we are just going to slash the duck,

0:58:020:58:05

just so it's not cutting into the flesh,

0:58:050:58:07

but just through the skin,

0:58:070:58:09

cos we want to render some of it down.

0:58:090:58:10

Although it's delicious, we need to...

0:58:100:58:13

Take a bit out.

0:58:130:58:14

So I'm going to put that into a medium-hot pan.

0:58:140:58:17

Press down, try to extract as much of the fat out as we can.

0:58:170:58:21

We've got the...

0:58:210:58:23

I've got the beans on. You want these blanching, yeah?

0:58:230:58:25

Yeah, so we've got green beans in there.

0:58:250:58:27

We've got some tamarind there,

0:58:270:58:29

which we're going to put into the pan, a splash of water.

0:58:290:58:33

And then, also, we've got some Pontefract cakes,

0:58:330:58:37

which is just...

0:58:370:58:39

There is a sink in the back, if you want to wash your hands.

0:58:390:58:42

Now, Pontefract cake. Liquorice. This stuff.

0:58:420:58:46

Yeah, so, these are like jellied sweets, really,

0:58:460:58:49

and they're pure liquorice.

0:58:490:58:52

And they make a beautiful puree,

0:58:520:58:53

which goes really nice with duck, venison or any sort of game.

0:58:530:58:56

So where do you get these ideas from, then?

0:58:560:58:58

Where's all this lot coming from,

0:58:580:59:00

this tamarind and liquorice and stuff like that?

0:59:000:59:02

Tamarind is from going round the markets in Birmingham.

0:59:020:59:04

It's so multicultural, it's good to see different ingredients.

0:59:040:59:07

I took and thought, "What is this?"

0:59:070:59:09

So I brought it home, smashed it open and tasted it.

0:59:090:59:11

I thought, "I can use that."

0:59:110:59:13

The liquorice comes from when I was a kid,

0:59:130:59:14

we used to buy the sticks out of the shop.

0:59:140:59:16

I know... My mum's not a Jack Russell,

0:59:160:59:19

she didn't give me a stick on the way to school.

0:59:190:59:21

Basically we used to chew them on the way to school, the sticks,

0:59:210:59:24

to get the liquorice flavour.

0:59:240:59:25

You used to eat a stick on the way to school?

0:59:250:59:27

You go...like that.

0:59:270:59:29

-It's a Birmingham thing.

-Did you ever do that?

0:59:290:59:32

-I went to school in Birmingham. We did exactly the same.

-Thank you!

0:59:320:59:35

-First person I've met...

-I think your parents were winding you up!

0:59:350:59:38

I think it was just some random twig from the garden.

0:59:380:59:41

I'm going to put the cake, the liquorice sweets...

0:59:410:59:43

We used to have Sherbet Dip-Dab for that.

0:59:430:59:45

Did that as well, I'm just saying we had the liquorice...

0:59:450:59:47

When you're really good, you get a stick!

0:59:470:59:50

LAUGHTER AND WHISTLING

0:59:500:59:51

We got the liquorice, which I'm melting down,

0:59:510:59:54

the tamarind, which we're melting down.

0:59:540:59:55

-But you used to eat this as well, tamarind.

-The tamarind pod, yeah.

0:59:550:59:58

We used to have it as a real treat on a Saturday morning

0:59:581:00:02

-in front of the TV.

-You lot were lucky, weren't you?

1:00:021:00:04

Big bowls of tamarind pods.

1:00:041:00:06

We used to get a bowl of rhubarb and custard for a treat.

1:00:061:00:09

Yeah, just suck them, and they've got little pips.

1:00:091:00:11

You'd get a pod on a stick. Anyway, go on, then.

1:00:111:00:13

A little bit of lime in with the tamarind, just going to melt down.

1:00:131:00:17

Obviously, to speed things up,

1:00:171:00:20

we've got two...

1:00:201:00:21

Once they've been melted down for a good 10 or 15 minutes,

1:00:211:00:25

we should end up with something...

1:00:251:00:27

So what's that in there? Just water?

1:00:271:00:29

Just water because they're so strong with the liquorice and the tamarind.

1:00:291:00:33

We've got a bit of stock. Where's that...?

1:00:331:00:35

-Oh, that's going in our sauce.

-It's going in with the, er...

1:00:351:00:38

So, you've done the green beans. They're blanching. The duck...

1:00:381:00:41

we'll put in the oven. That's going to take about eight minutes on 220.

1:00:411:00:45

-You're cooking that just on the skin, yeah?

-On the skin.

1:00:451:00:47

-You can flip it over and then flip it back.

-OK.

1:00:471:00:50

-We've got one that we got out.

-We've got one which is resting.

1:00:501:00:54

-Yep.

-It's always important to rest-imate.

1:00:541:00:56

These have just been blanched. Take these off. There you go.

1:00:561:01:00

And the liquorice, which we'll put into a blender and blend, James.

1:01:001:01:04

OK. So that liquorice, it's just these sweets, yeah?

1:01:041:01:08

-Yeah, melted down.

-In water, that's it?

-That's it.

1:01:081:01:11

-It makes such a beautiful shiny puree/sauce.

-There you go.

-Cheers.

1:01:111:01:16

-Thank you, James.

-There you go.

1:01:161:01:18

And then we've got the tamarind, which is...

1:01:181:01:22

Basically, the tamarind, we'll just push the stones through the sieve.

1:01:221:01:26

-It's almost like a puree/sauce.

-Right. Yep, there you go.

1:01:261:01:32

Did you want to try chewing one of those sticks, James?

1:01:321:01:34

Not particularly, no.

1:01:341:01:37

For me, a lot of my food is nostalgia, you know?

1:01:371:01:39

The reason why I... I burnt the wood... I dried the wood out...

1:01:391:01:42

-There you go.

-Thank you.

-Don't eat it all at once.

1:01:421:01:46

We dry the wood out and we burn it, like a little bonfire.

1:01:461:01:53

-Hold on a second. This is this?

-Yes, so that's the stick.

1:01:531:01:58

-Sorry, it is a stick.

-Yeah, but you do get flavour...

1:01:581:02:01

To be honest, James gave you a stick.

1:02:011:02:03

-In Norfolk, we used to chew bones.

-Right.

1:02:041:02:07

Basically, burn the liquorice like a powder so you get bits of

1:02:091:02:12

sort of wood taste and then I mix it with another liquorice powder...

1:02:121:02:15

-Wood taste!

-..which is this stuff. Hold your arm out.

1:02:151:02:18

It tastes of forest.

1:02:181:02:20

Try that. Have a little taste of that.

1:02:201:02:23

Taste it when the dish is finished.

1:02:271:02:29

-James, do you want to pass that in there for me?

-Yeah.

1:02:291:02:32

-Pass that through there.

-It's got a sweetness to it, hasn't it?

1:02:321:02:36

They reckon liquorice is the sweetest thing on the planet.

1:02:361:02:38

50 times sweeter than sugar, believe it or not.

1:02:381:02:41

-I got a bit of flavour then.

-Did you?

-I feel happy now.

1:02:411:02:45

When you taste this, you'll understand where I'm coming from.

1:02:451:02:49

As you know, there are lots of recipes in the past that have

1:02:491:02:51

gone back centuries.

1:02:511:02:52

People have used charcoal, ash and things like that.

1:02:521:02:54

Well, there is a famous dish in France.

1:02:541:02:56

I can't remember it now, but they sell it in the market.

1:02:561:02:58

-It's in pots with duck and ash.

-Yeah.

1:02:581:03:01

I'm not saying I've reinvented the wheel but, you know,

1:03:011:03:04

it's just nice to bring things back.

1:03:041:03:07

A bit of nostalgia with the liquorice sticks.

1:03:071:03:09

So, if you carry on blending that, I'll get on with the green beans.

1:03:101:03:14

Right.

1:03:141:03:15

-OK, so that's your paste.

-I'll just taste that for seasoning.

1:03:151:03:20

And then this is the liquorice. You want that passing through a sieve?

1:03:201:03:23

Yes, please.

1:03:231:03:25

That definitely smells like liquorice.

1:03:251:03:27

-I thought you'd like this one, being from up...

-From up north?

1:03:271:03:31

-From up north.

-Well, I saw this last week.

1:03:311:03:34

It was being put on my driveway. Look at it.

1:03:341:03:36

LAUGHTER

1:03:361:03:38

So, you'll spend most of the week on your hands and knees

1:03:381:03:40

licking your driveway!

1:03:401:03:41

It is really strong this, isn't it?

1:03:411:03:43

Right, so we'll pass that through a sieve.

1:03:461:03:48

-Our duck is rested.

-Yes.

-Yes?

1:03:481:03:52

-It's thick stuff.

-We've cooked this medium.

1:03:521:03:57

-And you want me to put the beans in.

-In there, James.

1:03:571:04:01

-We've got a bit of stock and a bit of butter, yeah?

-Butter.

-OK.

1:04:011:04:06

-Just emulsify that, bit of seasoning.

-OK, I'll do that.

1:04:061:04:10

You carry on and do your duck. I'll be there.

1:04:101:04:12

We've got our roasted twigs...

1:04:121:04:14

-Twigs.

-Our twigs.

1:04:141:04:16

When I put it in the restaurant, it puts such a smile on people's faces.

1:04:161:04:19

It's nice of you to come on here and do a dish that's accessible for people.

1:04:191:04:22

LAUGHTER

1:04:221:04:24

The problem is, I ring up and I say, what do you want to cook?

1:04:241:04:27

Shall I do a nice poached egg, some Lichfield asparagus,

1:04:271:04:30

local to where I'm from,

1:04:301:04:32

some cheese from down the road from Birmingham.

1:04:321:04:34

That doesn't really sound that interesting.

1:04:341:04:37

So then they pushed me into a corner and this is what happens

1:04:371:04:40

-when I get pushed into a corner.

-You rebel.

1:04:401:04:43

Is that the liquorice?

1:04:431:04:44

-The liquorice is... We've dusted it.

-It's horrible.

1:04:441:04:48

Another little towel...

1:04:511:04:52

Give you that knife there.

1:04:551:04:56

And this looks like the stuff you buy in France.

1:05:001:05:02

Obviously it's cold, the one in ash, but there you go. OK. What's next?

1:05:021:05:06

I'm going to dress the plate now, James. On there.

1:05:061:05:12

-Oh, the sticks go in?

-The sticks go in.

1:05:121:05:14

-Could you pick me some nice rocket leaves just to dress...

-Can do.

1:05:161:05:20

Where do you get the liquorice sticks from? Do you pick them yourself?

1:05:201:05:24

No, you just buy them in...

1:05:241:05:25

Sweet shops used to sell these.

1:05:251:05:27

By the side of the M40 on his way down!

1:05:271:05:30

LAUGHTER

1:05:301:05:32

I think health food stores sell them, don't they?

1:05:331:05:35

Yeah, I think so.

1:05:351:05:37

I mean, I don't think you'll get them from the supermarket.

1:05:371:05:39

OK, then. So...

1:05:391:05:41

-Green beans.

-Yeah, we're there.

-Have you got a palette knife?

1:05:411:05:44

-There's a palette knife.

-The problem is, there's ash everywhere.

1:05:441:05:49

Made all the difference that, didn't it?

1:06:011:06:04

I tell you what, he should be on tour with you!

1:06:041:06:06

I have to say, it looks...

1:06:101:06:13

So, is this on your menu at the moment, then?

1:06:131:06:15

-It has been on the menu. It's on the tasting menu.

-Yes.

-A few of them on.

1:06:151:06:19

One there. And then for the tamarind, which is the acidity.

1:06:241:06:27

A bit on the top. So remind us what this is again.

1:06:301:06:32

This is roast duck with liquorice charcoal, tamarind, lime,

1:06:321:06:36

-green beans and rocket. As simple as that.

-Simple as that.

-One second.

1:06:361:06:40

The piece de resistance... What about that?

1:06:401:06:44

I say nothing.

1:06:461:06:48

I have to say, it looks absolutely fantastic.

1:06:541:06:56

I know that it tastes unbelievable so follow me over, Glynn.

1:06:561:07:00

-Exciting!

-I know I take the mick out of him, but his food is just...

1:07:021:07:06

Anyone who hasn't been to his restaurant in Birmingham,

1:07:061:07:09

seriously, you've got to go because it is absolutely fantastic.

1:07:091:07:11

-It looks amazing.

-Dive into that.

-I love tamarind as well.

1:07:111:07:15

That's why I won't hear a word said against brown sauce ever

1:07:151:07:18

-because it's got tamarind in it.

-It has.

-Practically exotic.

1:07:181:07:21

-Tell us what you think.

-Shall I stop chatting and eat?

1:07:211:07:23

A little bit of liquorice puree there to...

1:07:231:07:25

Other things you could do? You mentioned venison. Beef, I suppose.

1:07:251:07:28

Beef works fantastically with the amount of fat.

1:07:281:07:31

Fish, I'd steer away, because it might be a bit too strong,

1:07:311:07:33

-but tamarind with fish is good without the liquorice.

-Wow!

1:07:331:07:36

-That is really good.

-Happy with that? A good effort, isn't it?

1:07:361:07:39

Hold on a minute. There we go.

1:07:391:07:41

I don't think you're going to get any of this.

1:07:411:07:43

LAUGHTER

1:07:441:07:47

So, there you go. Simple. Maybe not.

1:07:491:07:52

Time now for the omelette challenge.

1:07:521:07:53

This week, Tom Kerridge and Paul Ainsworth are fighting it out

1:07:531:07:56

for glory at the hob.

1:07:561:07:57

But can Tom beat his already impressive time of 22.72 seconds.

1:07:571:08:02

Let's take a look.

1:08:021:08:03

Paul Rankin is still at the centre of our pan, 17.5 seconds.

1:08:031:08:06

These guys are pretty quick, though, Tom used to be in the top ten.

1:08:061:08:09

Now he's been knocked out of the top ten but we've got Paul sitting...

1:08:091:08:12

Where are you? There. About 29 seconds there.

1:08:121:08:14

So usual rules apply. Three-egg omelette cooked as fast as you can.

1:08:141:08:18

Now I know these boys have been practising as well, so, are you ready?

1:08:181:08:21

-Practising?

-Yeah, I know you have. Three, two, one, go.

1:08:211:08:24

-Generally... What happens, it sticks.

-Flavour, flavour.

1:08:311:08:35

Oh, oh. Is that meant to look like that?

1:08:391:08:43

Yeah, somebody's not been practising.

1:08:431:08:45

LAUGHTER

1:08:451:08:47

GONG

1:08:471:08:48

You see?

1:08:511:08:52

-Come on!

-What is that? What is that?

1:08:541:08:57

See, now you know, Paul, how to get two Michelin stars.

1:08:571:09:00

-That's what happens. What is that, Chef?

-It's just...just perfect.

1:09:001:09:03

Just cooked. Look at it, it's perfect.

1:09:031:09:05

It's scrambled egg, though, isn't it?

1:09:051:09:07

No, no, no, no, no, by the time you pick that up and take it

1:09:071:09:09

into the restaurant, it's just set in time.

1:09:091:09:12

-Oh, dear.

-Don't "oh, dear".

-I can't believe you have to eat that, James.

1:09:141:09:19

I know.

1:09:191:09:20

His is looser than mine, look.

1:09:201:09:21

That is just the kilo of butter that he has put in there.

1:09:211:09:25

Which is a good move.

1:09:251:09:26

-That's a shell.

-That was from his.

1:09:301:09:33

-"That was from his"?

-That was from you.

1:09:331:09:36

-Plenty of butter. He likes butter.

-Paul, you think you were quicker?

1:09:391:09:43

-I think I was.

-You WERE quicker.

1:09:441:09:46

You were quicker by a long way. Quicker than even Tom.

1:09:481:09:52

No, you weren't. You did it in 26.32, which puts you about there.

1:09:521:09:59

-Pretty good.

-Yeah, I'm happy with that.

-Tom.

-See, it's cooked now.

1:09:591:10:05

No way!

1:10:091:10:10

-Do you think that was an omelette, first of all?

-Erm...

1:10:131:10:16

Omelette-ish, it's omelette-ish.

1:10:161:10:18

You did it not quicker but I can't put that on there,

1:10:201:10:24

so you're going in there. Because we had to play this.

1:10:241:10:27

EASTENDERS THEME PLAYS

1:10:271:10:29

And, best of all, that actually worked.

1:10:321:10:34

That was Tom on camera three who spent the whole morning rehearsing that bit.

1:10:341:10:38

You got it right, well done.

1:10:381:10:39

Two words - scrambled eggs.

1:10:441:10:45

Right, up next, a chef who wrote his first book on Italian cooking

1:10:451:10:49

in 1983 and has since gone on to write 22 hugely successful books.

1:10:491:10:53

It is, of course, the amazing Antonio Carluccio.

1:10:531:10:56

-Great to have you back on the show.

-Buongiorno, James.

1:10:561:10:58

Fantastic, buongiorno. What are we cooking, then, Chef?

1:10:581:11:01

Something very seasonal and close to your heart.

1:11:011:11:03

Did you know that we started together

1:11:031:11:05

-seven years ago. The first one.

-You're the first...

1:11:051:11:07

The first ever programme that I ever did, you cooked a lamb...

1:11:071:11:11

-I think it was lamb stuffed with...

-Yes, with something.

1:11:111:11:14

Yeah, exactly, feta cheese.

1:11:141:11:15

-I discovered meanwhile that you can cook now.

-Thanks very much(!) What are we going to do, then?

1:11:151:11:20

This is for you, look.

1:11:201:11:22

I give it to you immediately because this is a treat. So, artichokes.

1:11:221:11:29

Yeah. So these are the little baby artichokes as well.

1:11:291:11:32

In a raw salad.

1:11:321:11:34

You see, you have to take away

1:11:341:11:37

the most hard and unedible things.

1:11:371:11:41

What a wonderful flower. I give it up to you.

1:11:411:11:45

-I'll trim it all of all off.

-Chop it very fine.

1:11:451:11:48

Meanwhile, I will cook this sauce, a little bit more fire here.

1:11:481:11:52

With my beloved mushrooms, look at this.

1:11:551:11:58

So what is it with you and these mushrooms? How did it start for you?

1:11:581:12:02

-When you were a young kid?

-Yes, a young kid.

1:12:021:12:04

I was going with Papa and friends, as everybody in Italy does.

1:12:041:12:09

I was going to pick mushrooms and then the sort of passion

1:12:091:12:13

remains in me and I find mushrooms anywhere. Everywhere.

1:12:131:12:18

-Here, I find even some in Hyde Park.

-What have we got here?

1:12:181:12:22

We've got butter first of all and then we cook, yes.

1:12:221:12:27

This will be the sauce for raviolo.

1:12:271:12:30

There are two sheets of pasta which will contain the sauce.

1:12:301:12:33

They are in the fridge at the moment,

1:12:331:12:35

so we will talk about those in a minute. What mushrooms have you brought along with us?

1:12:351:12:38

These are morels, which is a fantastic mushroom.

1:12:381:12:41

You have to be careful when you get morels fresh because they may

1:12:411:12:44

have little stones inside. They are hollow.

1:12:441:12:47

I will open one to you and show it.

1:12:471:12:49

You see, and they may have stones or something like that. Then we have the girolles, or chanterelles,

1:12:491:12:56

as I prefer to call them. These are the girolles,

1:12:561:12:59

which we put immediately there after they have been cleaned,

1:12:591:13:05

and naturally we have the most wonderful mushroom of all,

1:13:051:13:09

the porcino, the cep. Let me put a few more here.

1:13:091:13:13

So you would classify the cep more so than the morel

1:13:131:13:16

-as the king of mushrooms, would you?

-The morel

1:13:161:13:19

is a very, very fine mushroom.

1:13:191:13:23

In fact, to buy it is even more expensive but, for me, the king

1:13:231:13:27

is really this one.

1:13:271:13:28

Look, perfect, it doesn't have a little animal inside,

1:13:281:13:31

-it's vegetarian.

-But it's great raw in salads as well, isn't it?

1:13:311:13:35

In fact, in fact, I have an idea.

1:13:351:13:38

Look. Look, if you can cut me the very solid one, this one.

1:13:381:13:42

Yeah, I'll do it.

1:13:421:13:44

You can cut it very finely sliced, and this one, too.

1:13:441:13:47

We do the salad of porcini as well.

1:13:471:13:50

-OK.

-On this show you can do everything.

1:13:501:13:55

-So you wouldn't wash these?

-No, you never wash mushrooms.

1:13:551:13:59

You scratch them from, eventually, dirt. But they are clean.

1:13:591:14:06

You have just to check if they have little maggots inside.

1:14:061:14:10

Because they may have. This one is perfect, look at this.

1:14:101:14:13

-Wonderful white.

-Now, you're as well as...

-Yes.

1:14:131:14:18

..busy all over the world with the restaurants and everything else,

1:14:181:14:21

-writing is a huge influence in your life.

-Yes.

1:14:211:14:24

You've written a couple of things recently.

1:14:241:14:28

I've written 19 books altogether,

1:14:281:14:31

two of which...the last one, one is called Collection.

1:14:311:14:35

And naturally my sort of biography, my life.

1:14:351:14:40

Now we put a little bit of sort of...

1:14:411:14:45

A spoon, a spoon, a spoon.

1:14:451:14:47

I can get you one.

1:14:471:14:48

So this is tomato puree that you're adding to this?

1:14:511:14:53

A little bit of tomato puree to be a little...sort of things.

1:14:531:14:58

And then some parsley and we chop it like this, direct.

1:14:581:15:03

So you've written, like, an autobiography on your life.

1:15:061:15:10

Yeah, my own biography starting from birth. In fact, to write it...

1:15:101:15:17

I put some wine now.

1:15:171:15:18

I asked my siblings if my father, my mother, they conceive to me in love.

1:15:201:15:26

-Right.

-To see if the beginning of my life was already positive.

1:15:261:15:32

He didn't say this in rehearsal.

1:15:321:15:34

-Well, they told me, yes.

-They told you yes?

-They told me yes.

1:15:371:15:41

Listen, the sauce is ready.

1:15:411:15:43

The only time when you can put a few drops of oil in water for

1:15:431:15:48

boiling the pasta is when you have two big sheets of pasta.

1:15:481:15:52

This is fresh pasta.

1:15:521:15:53

It's wonderful, you put it to boil in salted water, which should

1:15:531:15:57

be 10g of salt per litre of water.

1:15:571:16:01

It's more salty than people would normally do, isn't it?

1:16:011:16:04

-Yeah, but 10g is not very much.

-Yeah.

1:16:041:16:07

Now, this is cooking and it will cook the fresh pasta only two,

1:16:071:16:13

three minutes, no more than that.

1:16:131:16:16

In fact, it's just the sauce, that's wonderful.

1:16:161:16:22

You can see the oil on the surface when you put the pasta down,

1:16:221:16:25

coated with the oil so it doesn't stick together.

1:16:251:16:29

Now, as well as that, you're doing these food festivals all over the UK.

1:16:291:16:32

-One in particular which is just round the corner.

-You know what?

1:16:321:16:35

-I'm coming to your area, in Malton.

-You are, you're coming up north.

1:16:351:16:38

Yes.

1:16:381:16:40

And it will be very good because I would like to taste your food.

1:16:401:16:43

-The Malton Food Festival, which is next weekend, I believe.

-I think so.

1:16:431:16:48

Two weekends' time. There you go.

1:16:481:16:50

-So we have one sheet of pasta, we put it there.

-Yup.

1:16:501:16:53

There. Then we have the... Let me taste.

1:16:581:17:02

Yup. A little bit of salt. Because...

1:17:051:17:08

-Yes.

-So that's it, very quick.

-Yes. It's very quick.

1:17:111:17:16

Italian food is mof-mof - minimum of fuss, maximum of flavour.

1:17:161:17:22

Then we have the other one here, look.

1:17:221:17:24

This is the blanket. So we put it there.

1:17:291:17:34

Naturally something like this,

1:17:341:17:35

you can do it also with a filling of fish, of whatever you like.

1:17:351:17:41

Whoops.

1:17:411:17:42

The decoration, let me put the decoration...

1:17:421:17:45

-I didn't save one of those but...

-We can fry that off, yeah.

1:17:451:17:49

-Got some butter in there if you want it.

-That's there.

1:17:521:17:55

-So explain to us about the salad, then.

-Oh, we have the salad, let's taste.

1:17:561:18:00

So we have very finely chopped artichokes.

1:18:001:18:04

If you have the big one, the globe artichoke,

1:18:041:18:06

you have to take all the heart apart and then...

1:18:061:18:10

Just the heart, isn't it? But with the small ones...

1:18:101:18:13

-Lemon, olive oil...

-That's it.

-Salt and pepper.

1:18:141:18:17

And, of course, Parmesan cheese and of course we've got the ceps in

1:18:171:18:20

-there as well.

-Yeah.

-So which part of Italy...?

1:18:201:18:23

You put the ceps in there as well?

1:18:231:18:25

-That's in there?

-I want to do it separate. Never mind.

1:18:251:18:28

I'll do another one.

1:18:281:18:29

LAUGHTER

1:18:291:18:31

-No pressure(!)

-Yeah.

-I'll follow what the chef says.

1:18:311:18:35

-So, which part of Italy are you from, then?

-Put in this one veg.

1:18:351:18:38

-Where did you grow up?

-I grew up in Piemonte.

1:18:381:18:42

I was born in the south, on the Amalfi coast.

1:18:421:18:45

And it was fantastic to have both.

1:18:451:18:49

A bit of salt.

1:18:491:18:51

A bit of lemon.

1:18:511:18:52

-And of course, we saw a lot of that when you were...

-Olive oil.

1:18:541:18:57

Olive oil, yeah. ..when you were touring with Gennaro on BBC Two.

1:18:571:19:01

The good old Gennaro.

1:19:011:19:04

My...

1:19:041:19:05

-My desperation!

-JAMES LAUGHS

1:19:051:19:09

-Yeah, that's fine.

-There you go, Cheffy.

-Lovely.

1:19:091:19:12

So, we put the decoration here.

1:19:121:19:14

-The garnish, as you call it.

-So we've got that, that...

-And that.

1:19:161:19:21

-We've got an extra dish more than we did in rehearsals.

-Yes.

1:19:211:19:24

-And you want a little bit of Parmesan cheese?

-Here, yes.

1:19:241:19:27

So, tell us what the name of this dish is.

1:19:271:19:30

-So, this is open raviolo with mushrooms.

-And in Italian?

1:19:301:19:36

Il raviolo aperto con funghi.

1:19:361:19:38

-Sounds much better, doesn't it?

-Love that, yeah!

-Poetry.

1:19:381:19:42

It looks delicious. I know these, just eat them as they are. Fabulous.

1:19:481:19:52

-Come on over here.

-Wow!

-Have a seat. Just dive in.

1:19:521:19:56

I don't know where you want to start, really, but... There you go.

1:19:561:19:59

So, if you like vegetarian...

1:19:591:20:02

-that's vegetarian.

-Italy's brilliant for vegetarian food.

1:20:021:20:05

Wherever I've been, I have the most choice when I go to Italy.

1:20:051:20:07

Doesn't have any complication between pasta

1:20:071:20:09

and this and that vegetables. You have always vegetarian.

1:20:091:20:13

But it's so simple if you use the small artichokes, as well.

1:20:131:20:17

-Delicious.

-It's amazing.

-Contains a lot of iron. It's very good.

1:20:171:20:20

-And nice and quick.

-Yeah.

-Happy with that?

1:20:201:20:23

-Oh, that's really lovely, yeah.

-Good, good.

-Thank you so much!

1:20:231:20:26

Simple but so effective. That's definitely one you should try.

1:20:301:20:33

Now, when Les Dennis came to the studio to face his food

1:20:331:20:36

heaven or food hell, he was hoping to be matched with mint,

1:20:361:20:39

but would he have to put up with pork belly? Let's find our.

1:20:391:20:42

It's time to find out whether you've sent

1:20:421:20:44

Les to food heaven or food hell.

1:20:441:20:46

Les, just to remind you, your version of food heaven would be...

1:20:461:20:49

-Go on, you tell me!

-..the bunch of lovely...

-Mint. I love it.

1:20:491:20:54

-I can eat it just raw.

-It's delicious stuff.

1:20:541:20:57

Great with, of course, mint sauce with the lamb,

1:20:571:20:59

particularly for tomorrow, and of course a little trio of

1:20:591:21:03

cremes brulees, which are covered with mint, chocolate or lemon.

1:21:031:21:05

Alternatively, it could be the dreaded food hell,

1:21:051:21:08

which is this stuff over here. Complete with nipples!

1:21:081:21:11

-Belly pork.

-Too fatty!

-Really?

-Yeah.

1:21:111:21:14

It needs to be cooked for a long period of time, but it could be

1:21:141:21:16

that with sauteed savoy cabbage and a little bit of salmon through it.

1:21:161:21:19

-Sounds interesting.

-Honey-roasted.

-A bit of surf and turf.

-Exactly, yeah.

1:21:191:21:23

How do you think the viewers have done?

1:21:231:21:25

Erm, I think they've probably sent me to hell!

1:21:251:21:27

-I said it was very, very close.

-Yeah.

-It was very, very close.

1:21:271:21:30

-Very close, was it?

-58% of the people wanted to see...

1:21:301:21:34

..the pork belly. You've lost this one. There we go. Right,

1:21:361:21:39

lose that one out the way.

1:21:391:21:41

Don't worry, we've got three cremes brulees for your dinner tonight.

1:21:411:21:44

You can take those and you only have to make one more for tonight.

1:21:441:21:47

-Yeah.

-What I'm going to do first of all...

1:21:471:21:48

Guys, if you could cook the salmon... Marcus, you can do that.

1:21:481:21:51

Martin, if you can chop up onions

1:21:511:21:54

and then chop the cabbage into decent-sized chunks...

1:21:541:21:56

I'm going to get on with my pork belly here.

1:21:561:21:59

Now, pork belly is great, because it's got a lot of fat in there.

1:21:591:22:02

-Yeah.

-But what you need to do is score it first of all.

1:22:021:22:04

To crisp it up, there's several different ways.

1:22:041:22:06

You can cook it for a long time and twice-cook it,

1:22:061:22:09

which I'm going to do, but to help it crisp up even more,

1:22:091:22:11

just score over the surface, over the top.

1:22:111:22:13

Maybe I've had it where it's just not been cooked crispy enough.

1:22:131:22:16

I think that's the thing.

1:22:161:22:17

I don't know about you boys, but when it's not cooked for

1:22:171:22:20

a long time, that's what puts a lot of people off.

1:22:201:22:22

-Yeah. A bit chewy.

-Yeah, a bit chewy and a bit leathery.

1:22:221:22:26

So, what you do is you place the pork belly into a colander.

1:22:261:22:28

Now, if you're doing roast pork, the same thing applies,

1:22:281:22:31

or if you've got duck or goose -

1:22:311:22:33

a kettle full of boiling water, and pour this over the top.

1:22:331:22:37

Now, you'll see it actually firm up.

1:22:381:22:41

-So you wouldn't season it till after that?

-No. You can see it...

1:22:411:22:46

Look, it starts to almost shrink. Look at that.

1:22:461:22:49

And then what you do with this, now,

1:22:491:22:50

is we can just take our pork belly out...

1:22:501:22:54

onto a tea towel. There we go.

1:22:541:22:56

Get rid of all that excess water, like that.

1:22:561:22:58

-Have you done the old onions?

-Yeah, onions are there.

1:22:581:23:01

-Might be a bit coarse for you.

-And then... That's all right.

1:23:011:23:04

They can go straight into there.

1:23:041:23:05

These onions are just going to... sit on a bed of onions, this pork.

1:23:051:23:08

We've got some fresh thyme in here.

1:23:081:23:11

Now, what Marcus is doing over there...

1:23:111:23:13

Can you believe you've got three chefs cooking you a meal?

1:23:131:23:16

Marcus is cooking salmon, because salmon goes well with pork belly.

1:23:161:23:19

-I love that combination.

-Is that being seared?

1:23:191:23:22

-Yeah, it's been seared, yeah.

-A bit of olive oil, salt.

1:23:221:23:26

I'm going to drop in some butter to give it some nice colour.

1:23:261:23:28

-I'm just going to wash my hands.

-So, oil AND butter you would use?

1:23:281:23:31

-I'm just putting the butter in now.

-Butter just gives it a nice colour.

1:23:311:23:34

Otherwise, if you cook in all butter, it can burn.

1:23:341:23:37

So anyway, you can see, actually,

1:23:371:23:39

when you've just put that water on, it shrinks itself. Salt, of course.

1:23:391:23:43

As always. Black pepper. A decent amount of salt.

1:23:431:23:46

And then we take some white wine.

1:23:461:23:48

And don't put it on the top, put it underneath.

1:23:481:23:50

And that way, as it cooks, it'll keep it lovely and moist and

1:23:501:23:53

all those juices will come out of it.

1:23:531:23:55

Salt and pepper helps it crisp?

1:23:551:23:56

Salt and pepper helps it to crisp, but I've got another tip.

1:23:561:23:59

Once it goes in the oven, this needs to go in for about two hours.

1:23:591:24:01

-Really?

-Quite slowly, about 350, 325, something like that.

1:24:011:24:06

That's about sort of 160.

1:24:061:24:08

After a couple of hours - just keep basting it - you end up with this,

1:24:081:24:12

this lovely rich mixture. Now, if I just take this...

1:24:121:24:15

-Doesn't really look like hell, does it, at all?

-It doesn't really!

1:24:151:24:19

-But if I just get a knife...

-Right.

-And then...

1:24:191:24:21

what we can do now is we can drain off this liquid...

1:24:211:24:25

because we're going to use this, because this is just like nectar.

1:24:251:24:31

-It is.

-You make a jus? I never know what a jus is, exactly.

1:24:311:24:35

-A "juzz"! You take this juzz, made with stock, ideally...

-Right.

1:24:351:24:41

..because the way that you actually make a jus, or a juzz,

1:24:411:24:44

is to actually reduce it down.

1:24:441:24:45

You can't make it with powdered stock, you must use fresh stock.

1:24:451:24:48

You can buy cans of that in the supermarket now.

1:24:481:24:50

What I'm going to do is just cut this...

1:24:501:24:52

Martin, if you could just saute me off

1:24:521:24:54

-a little bit of buttered cabbage in here...

-Yeah.

1:24:541:24:56

Just a bit of that in there.

1:24:561:24:58

See, again, when cabbage is over-creamy, I don't like that.

1:24:581:25:03

That's a bit hot there!

1:25:031:25:05

-Chef?

-It'll be all right.

-He's setting me up today!

1:25:061:25:10

-Your omelette would have cooked in time over that!

-Yes, definitely!

1:25:101:25:14

Just a touch of water. There you go.

1:25:141:25:15

-Right, while he sets fire to my kitchen...

-Flambeed cabbage!

1:25:191:25:22

-There you go. What we're going to do is just take our pork now.

-Right.

1:25:231:25:26

Now, I'm going to leave you that, because you can take that home.

1:25:261:25:29

I know you've got a dinner party tonight. Take that.

1:25:291:25:31

-Wow.

-And then what we do is just finish this off with some honey.

1:25:311:25:35

And this is where we twice-bake it.

1:25:351:25:37

We're often told to twice-bake pork belly.

1:25:371:25:39

So, this has gone in a low oven

1:25:391:25:41

for a long time, two, three hours - the longer it is, the better -

1:25:411:25:44

-then we turn the oven right up and then cook this again.

-Right, OK.

1:25:441:25:47

So this goes in the oven about sort of 360, something like that.

1:25:471:25:52

380. And this wants about 20 minutes. And this gets lovely...

1:25:521:25:58

-With that honey glaze.

-With that honey glaze.

-20 minutes?

-Yeah.

1:25:581:26:02

No more than that, otherwise it's black. And you've got that. See?

1:26:021:26:06

-Wow!

-And then what we do now... How are we doing with our cabbage?

1:26:061:26:10

-We've got enough cabbage for about 400 there.

-Yeah, well...

1:26:101:26:14

we're big guys, y'know what I mean?

1:26:141:26:16

-We're just going to flake that.

-So the salmon is flaked in.

1:26:161:26:19

Yeah, the salmon's all flaked in. Now, if you wanted to, you could mix

1:26:191:26:23

equal quantities of pork belly and salmon and have them together.

1:26:231:26:26

But it works really well either with savoy cabbage, like this,

1:26:261:26:29

or, alternatively, cook it for longer,

1:26:291:26:31

use a white cabbage and do choucroute, which is lovely with it.

1:26:311:26:35

-What's choucroute?

-Choucroute? It's that lovely pickled...

-Sauerkraut.

1:26:351:26:39

-Oh, OK.

-So, what we're going to do is, we just grab a spoon.

1:26:391:26:45

A little bit of parsley, boys. I'll do that. I'll do that, don't worry.

1:26:451:26:48

We'll just take some flat-leaf parsley. There you go.

1:26:481:26:51

Or chives if you've got no parsley.

1:26:531:26:54

Chives if you've got no parsley, exactly!

1:26:541:26:57

You're learning, you're learning!

1:26:571:26:59

-There you go. Save that. He's going to take that home.

-Oh, wow!

1:26:591:27:03

-If you could season that for me, Martin...

-No problem.

1:27:031:27:06

Martin'll just season that up. So, we're just sauteing off now.

1:27:061:27:08

What Marcus has done is just cooked the salmon, JUST cooked,

1:27:081:27:11

so then, when you flake it through...

1:27:111:27:14

-Y'know, often people overcook salmon.

-Yeah.

1:27:141:27:16

And what you need to do is just cook it.

1:27:161:27:19

By the time it gets to the table, it'll be perfectly cooked.

1:27:191:27:22

-And we just put a pile of that.

-So it carries on cooking?

1:27:221:27:24

It carries on cooking. Yeah, it's going to carry on cooking, yeah.

1:27:241:27:27

Well, this will be cooked, because Marcus cooked it, not Martin.

1:27:271:27:31

THEY LAUGH

1:27:311:27:32

We place that over the top, like that.

1:27:321:27:35

A nice little bit of pork belly sits on there.

1:27:351:27:38

-It really looks like hell, doesn't it(?)

-And you've got a sauce.

1:27:381:27:41

Not at all! It looks lovely.

1:27:411:27:43

-But this is the liquor that's left over.

-Right, OK.

1:27:431:27:47

But you pour that over the top. And you just put that over the top.

1:27:471:27:51

Have you got your irons there, Marcus? There we go.

1:27:511:27:54

-Put plenty of sauce on, as well.

-So, what's in that liquor, then?

1:27:541:27:57

That's the juices reduced down. That's it.

1:27:571:28:00

-And you didn't put any honey in there?

-Nothing.

1:28:001:28:02

It's obviously the juices from there. Dive in.

1:28:021:28:04

-Tell me what you think.

-Fantastic.

1:28:041:28:06

Dive in, Marcus. There you go. Go on, dive in.

1:28:071:28:10

The crackling's lovely and crisp. I'm going to get some wine out.

1:28:101:28:13

Getting into the crackling's not easy, is it?

1:28:131:28:16

-There we go. We've got it over here.

-This is hell, folks, it really is(!)

1:28:161:28:21

Tell me what you think.

1:28:211:28:22

That combination between salmon, cabbage and pork,

1:28:221:28:24

-I think it's a great mix.

-Mm!

1:28:241:28:27

-It is.

-Nice combination. There you go.

1:28:271:28:29

My mum told me not to talk with my mouth full.

1:28:291:28:32

Turns out pork belly isn't Les Dennis's hell, after all.

1:28:361:28:39

Well, I'm afraid that's all we've got on today's Best Bites.

1:28:391:28:42

I hope you've enjoyed looking back at some of the fantastic

1:28:421:28:44

food picked out for you from the Saturday Kitchen store cupboard.

1:28:441:28:47

Have a great week, and we'll see you soon.

1:28:471:28:49

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