25/09/2016 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites


25/09/2016

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Transcript


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Good morning. There's a seriously sumptuous menu

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lined up for you today, so please sit back and enjoy the show.

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This is Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

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Welcome to the show.

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I'm back to bring you more top chefs cooking fabulous food,

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and a great line-up of stars getting stuck in.

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You don't want to miss any of it. Coming up on the show today...

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rewind ten years and it's my younger self

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cooking up a spicy Thai beef salad with green mango,

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chilli and roasted rice for Rupert Everett.

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To continue our meat feast, someone who is always popular on the show -

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the award-winning Theo Randall makes a mouth-watering rump of lamb.

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The lamb is first marinated to soften it before it's roasted

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just long enough to make it crispy on the outside

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and beautifully pink in the middle.

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It's served with roasted onion, squash,

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spinach and a zingy salsa verde.

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Then it's time for a seasonal Sunday supper with one of Scotland's

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finest, Tom Kitchin.

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He is going for grouse with some roasted pumpkins,

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Jerusalem artichokes and beetroot.

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Great British Bake Off's Sue Perkins faces her Food Heaven or Food Hell.

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But did she get her Food Heaven, hazelnut and chocolate gateau,

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or did she end up facing her Food Hell, goat's cheese on brioche

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with salt-baked celeriac and red currant dressing?

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Wow. You can find out what she gets at the end of the show.

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Now, kicking things off is a brilliant chef and author of

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award-winning cookbooks, Stephane Reynaud.

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He's showing us why he is the master of rural French cuisine.

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So what are you going to make for us then, Stephane? A little pie.

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Yes, a little pie with squid, with a lot of vegetables.

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Here you have tomato. We should use tomato from Mirmande.

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Mirmande. Mirmande. It's big, huge tomatoes.

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They're like big beef tomatoes, yeah? Yeah, they're great.

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We've onions, celery, garlic, sugar, black olive.

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This comes from a particular region in France.

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Yeah, it's from Languedoc-Roussillon.

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It's from the south of France. It's on the Mediterranean Sea.

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I love this region, because you have a lot of fish.

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There is a big fish market.

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I used to go there very often and just cook fish.

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Particularly this is an area with seafood...

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Seafood and good fish from the Mediterranean.

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There is a huge fish market there.

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You have people from everywhere in France coming

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to buy some red tuna, some sole.

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We have great, great fish there.

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Tell us about this pie.

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This pie, it's a very old, traditional recipe from Sete.

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Last century, when the fishermen came in with boats,

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they sold the nice fish and nobody wanted to have squid,

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so they have to prepare squids for them. They made this pie.

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After that, they sold a lot of squid.

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There you go. It's a nice story.

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It's quite unusual to put squid in a pie, really,

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but in this one you're using shortcrust pastry, so it's...

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It's like a little pasty. Yeah, kind of pasty, yes.

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No, it's not usual in Sete.

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Not usual over there, but certainly over here, to put squid in a pie.

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Anyway, you're slicing up the squid cos we're going to slowly

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cook this, is that right?

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Yes, we have to cook it for an hour, very slowly.

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The tomato - I'm going to peel the tomatoes.

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We've got some fennel in here, garlic and onions.

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Yes. Then we're going to make a new pastry. It's pastry day. Yep.

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As well as being busy in the restaurant,

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I mean, you are so busy writing.

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Yes, I love that. For me, it's like a drug.

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I want to make a book every year to come back on your show

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with this book. I love the show, so it's nice for me.

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You know, I speak English once a year,

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so I can come here to improve it. That's great.

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You're always welcome as well. Thank you.

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Your books sell all over the world as well.

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The new one is on pies and... Well, tell us about it.

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The new one on pies that you can make pies with vegetables,

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with fish, with meat, with everything. I love this way to cook.

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In the beginning, pie in my family was the Sunday night lunch,

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because it was to clean the fridge. To clean the fridge? Yes.

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Right, all the leftovers.

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A piece of roast, some vegetables, some roast, some rice...

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If you want to wash your hands.

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You mix everything together and then make a pie.

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That's the beginning of a pie.

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After, in the butchery of my grandfather,

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they started to make a real pie with meat...

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Of course, the one that we know you for is the book on pork.

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Yeah, that was my first one. Yeah, I remember it.

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This one is on pies.

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As soon as you're writing one, finishing one,

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you're starting another. Always. I need to have that.

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I've told you, it's like a drug.

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It's very important for me to have a lot of things to do.

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This is shortcrust pastry, which is basically half butter to flour,

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a little bit of egg. It's kind of the same...

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Kind of similar, yeah, but you just mix it all together, really,

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rather than flake it in. I'm going to roll this out.

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You want two sort of discs with this one.

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OK, then I put some wine.

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Then I add some sugar.

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Sugar to this? Yes.

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Is this the traditional recipe

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or is this something you've adapted, really?

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It should be a traditional recipe. Right.

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But this is exactly how they would do it, is it?

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Yes. In my cuisine.

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Right.

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We've got our pastry there. This sort of size? Would be great, yes.

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Two circles.

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But, you know, with books,

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it's unbelievable because you can reach so many people.

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It's a great opportunity to do that.

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It's a big subject, pies and that kind of stuff,

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because each region has its own kind of pie, similar to the UK as well.

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Every region has its own pie, its own shape. Yep.

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OK, so it has to be cooked during one hour very slowly.

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Then you put it in the fridge. Do you want me to get that one out?

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Yes, please.

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So it reduces and reduces down. Yes. This is what we end up with.

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Great.

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There you go. This has been seasoned as well.

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Do you want me to do a little salad? That would be great, yeah.

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With the fennel, the mint and the lemon.

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We saw James and his gadget there from the Shopping Channel.

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Do you have shopping channels in France?

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I have some, but I never saw - sorry.

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But there is some, yes.

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It must be a chef thing, you see.

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Have you heard of the one-footed slipper? Sorry? No, you haven't.

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The what? The one-footed slipper? The one-footed slipper. I bought...

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I didn't buy a one-footed slipper,

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but I did actually buy a solar-powered blue tit and robin.

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I don't know what it is. It glows in the dark, it's for the garden.

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OK. It scared my dog, so I gave it to Chris Evans for Christmas.

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Sorry, Chris, but I did.

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Right, look at this pie.

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Then we're going to put some spices on the top...

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What's that, a bit of paprika on there?

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Yeah, that's true - paprika.

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You've got some mint, a bit of lemon.

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Looking at your book, which would be your favourite?

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I love all of the classic French charcuterie pies... Yes.

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But my first book, Pork And Sons,

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and Ripailles... I love all of my books.

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Happy with that?

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Yes, sure. Brilliant. This goes in the oven for half an hour.

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After you. Half an hour in the oven.

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We've got a little fennel salad here.

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Fennel, mint, lemon juice, a little bit of oil, mix this together.

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Bring that out as well. There you go.

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You've got that.

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I'll get you a little tool to get it off with. There you go.

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Anybody wanting to visit your neck of the woods, particularly Paris,

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what's the name of your restaurant?

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It's Villa 9 Trois. It's in the suburb, it's in Montreuil.

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With pleasure, please, give me a call.

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I have my reservation book in my office, so...

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Chris Evans has just texted in.

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Sorry, Chris, but I did actually give it to him for Christmas.

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OK, there you go. Happy with that?

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The Tielle Setoise with the fennel salad. Bon appetit.

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Bon appetit indeed.

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He's off. There you go. You can serve it, there you go. Please.

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I'm sorry it's squid inside. It looks good.

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Particularly when you cook it for that amount of time, really.

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Yeah. Yeah. Is it a first for you as well?

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Something like this? I've never tried anything like this before.

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I've had a twist on, like, a fish pasty,

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but not squid cooked down for an hour and encased like this, no.

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Yeah... I obviously tried it in rehearsal.

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You used to serve that for an aperitif in the south.

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You can have it cold or hot. Sounds pretty good to me.

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With the tomatoes and olives and everything else. It'll be hot.

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It's so tender.

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It's good, innit?

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The flavour is unreal. There you go.

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A pasty with a twist. I'll be doing that one at home myself.

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Of course, you guys want me to call it a pasty,

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but where I come from, it's a pah-sty.

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Coming up, James whips up a home-grown parsnip soup with

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mini crab beignets for actress Amanda Redman.

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Before that, it's time to meet some of Rick Stein's food heroes.

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Apart from over-cooked steaks,

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one thing has been consistent in my journey round these islands.

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That's the popularity of sticky toffee pudding.

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I think it originally came from the Sharrow Bay Hotel here in the

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Lake District, but now a local village shop is turning out

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puddings honestly as good as I can make myself.

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Sticky toffee pudding here in the village of Cartmel is the food hero,

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because it actually saved the village shop.

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Nowadays, Jean Johns makes the puddings at her house,

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but this is where they made them for years.

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For the sauce, they still use local cream,

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which Jean is pouring into melting butter and adding brown sugar.

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We used to make it for the shop, just for the shop.

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Then people would come on holiday, come for the day out,

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buy one, take it home and then ring up and say, where could they get it?

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We thought, well, perhaps in the winter time, which is quiet,

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well, was quiet for us, we could make the puddings and bring in

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a bit of money as well, so we did that.

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On a small scale, but it gradually got bigger and bigger.

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It just has gone on from there.

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For the pudding, she creams sugar and butter together

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in a large mixer, then adds vanilla extract and local eggs -

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free-range, of course, look at those yolks!

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She adds chopped dates to boiling water to soften them.

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Dates are the most important ingredient.

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In fact, in Australia, they call it sticky date pudding.

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Meanwhile, back in the mixer,

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she adds self-raising flour to the creamed butter and sugar.

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Finally, some bicarbonate of soda to make everything light.

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All she has to do now is add the date mix,

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which is all light and foamy, to the rest.

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That's it.

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Sadly, most of us don't have time to make puddings like this any more,

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or other ones like Sussex pond or summer,

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all those great British puddings for which we're so famous.

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So, thank goodness for Jean.

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What I can say is that according to the film crew, one is not enough.

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So, if it wasn't for the sticky toffee pudding,

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this shop would not exist.

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Indeed, it could have been a private house now.

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I would imagine it would have been a private house now.

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In fact, sticky toffee puddings have saved this shop.

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Saved by the sticky toffee pudding. Yep.

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Well, if sticky toffee pudding is the most popular of all puddings

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in this country, then surely this is getting that way as a starter.

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Once it was only found in Italian restaurants,

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but now it's everywhere - I think, really because it's

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so healthy and good for you - tomato, basil and mozzarella salad.

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But this isn't any ordinary mozzarella,

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it's buffalo mozzarella from Devon.

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The great thing about this dish is that it has to look rustic.

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Although I like to layer the cheese and the tomato

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a little bit neatly, I like the finish to look as almost

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you've just dropped the thing on the plate.

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What's so important about this dish is all the ingredients have

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to be tippy-top.

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But the buffalo mozzarella was fantastic.

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I didn't really believe it.

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So often you get sort of imitation Parma ham,

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imitation salamis in this country and they don't work,

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but it had that sort of, like, farmyard-y taste that was

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so typical of buffalo mozzarella and so reminiscent

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of the Italian mozzarella, but still it was different.

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What I liked about it was these buffalos came from Romania,

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of all places.

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That part of Romania that used to be known as Transylvania,

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you know, Dracula and all that.

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But the thing that is really amusing was that Chris and Pete were filming

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them coming out of the field going for milking,

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and they were actually charging towards them.

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I was thinking, "They've got to get out of the way soon."

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The guy was saying, "It's all right, they're perfectly safe."

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But we learnt afterwards that more people are killed in

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South African game reserves by buffalos than any lions or leopards.

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These exotic creatures now dot the landscape in mid-Devon.

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The Greenaways, who began this venture, saw a real opening in the

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market and took a bit of a risk, not knowing much about the trendy

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eating habits of the chattering classes.

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Five years ago, I didn't really know mozzarella myself, to be honest.

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I didn't know nothing about mozzarella. But now you've got it...

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It's always on TV, advertised.

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They watched some garden programme,

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they've all got their patios now, and decking and whatever.

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Of course, they've got to have their mozzarella to go with it.

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Pizzas as well, nice on pizzas.

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Very much so. Or the basil and mozzarella tomato salads.

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Exactly, works together. It is... We are more European.

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Well, I must say, over the years,

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I've sort of fallen out of love with pizzas, what with all the fillings

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you now get in them, like sweetcorn and pineapple and all that.

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I sort of thought, "Well, they're missing the point."

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But a few years ago, we were filming in Naples and just went for

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a simple pizza down a backstreet and just some rough red wine.

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It was a pizza margherita.

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Well, my affection was rekindled.

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I need to make a tomato sauce.

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First some olive oil and very finely chopped garlic -

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just sweat that off in the oil -

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then some peeled and chopped tomatoes.

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It's very important to make a good tomato sauce.

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You could get it out of a tin, but it ain't as good.

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Salt and some freshly ground black pepper, then a slug of wine.

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Now just let that all reduce very, very gently.

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Just towards the end, throw in some chopped oregano.

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That's just about there, reduced down already,

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so we can put that on the pizza dough.

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But before that, I just need to heat this plate up, the baking sheet.

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You can use a big tile as well.

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I'm trying to assimilate the cooking of a pizza oven.

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Obviously you can't quite get it, but what you need is

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a good base heat as soon as that dough hits it,

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it starts to bubble up.

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The dough is very straightforward -

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just flour, salt, yeast, water and a little bit of olive oil.

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I'm going to roll this out to about 12 inches in diameter,

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cos as with the mozzarella,

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there's a lot of controversy with pizza - fierce stuff, pizza talk -

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about whether you use plain flour or strong flour.

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But I've discovered you get a crisper crust if you use

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strong flour, so this is strong flour.

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Nearly there now.

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There we go.

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Now, then...this is my version of a paddle to sort of throw the

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pizza into the oven.

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I'm just going to put some polenta on the top of the paddle there.

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They're like little ball bearings so the thing slides off it very

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easily and straight into the oven.

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There we go. Just stretch that out a little bit.

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Now we'll put the tomato sauce on it.

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You only need to put it quite thinly,

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I think it's all about balance -

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not too much sauce, not too much mozzarella,

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everything thin and elegant, I suppose.

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The mozzarella, some argue just use ordinary cow's milk mozzarella,

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but I think that lovely, spongy buffalo mozzarella.

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I really admire the Greenaways.

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When they first brought the herd over to Devon,

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the local farmers thought they were barking mad,

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and that included their father.

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But now for the difficult bit,

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will the pizza slide off or will it stick?

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I didn't expect that to work.

0:18:280:18:29

I'm a man of simple taste. That's why I like pizza margherita.

0:18:320:18:36

You know when you go into a pizza place and you're assailed

0:18:360:18:38

with all those different combinations?

0:18:380:18:41

I think just go for the simple stuff -

0:18:410:18:43

it'll taste better anyway!

0:18:430:18:44

Great stuff from Rick as always.

0:18:520:18:54

We're very lucky in this country to have access to so many interesting

0:18:540:18:57

and exciting ingredients, like buffalo mozzarella that Rick used.

0:18:570:18:59

However, there is one vegetable that I suspect we British may be

0:18:590:19:03

alone in adoring. This is a parsnip.

0:19:030:19:06

In fact, this is not a parsnip - these are parsnips. Check these out.

0:19:060:19:11

CHEFS EXCLAIM

0:19:110:19:12

"Ooh, la, la", from the Frenchman.

0:19:120:19:15

These are from my garden. Look at them little fellas.

0:19:150:19:18

Look at that! That's a proper parsnip. They look almost medieval.

0:19:180:19:22

I thought...

0:19:220:19:24

I thought I'd do a soup with this, because I think that's

0:19:240:19:27

a great way of doing parsnip soup, but you leave the peel on.

0:19:270:19:30

Don't peel it. Loads of flavour is in the peel as well.

0:19:300:19:34

You agree, Daniel, happy with that?

0:19:340:19:36

Absolutely. When did you dig them out the ground? Yesterday. Ooh.

0:19:360:19:38

Yesterday morning.

0:19:380:19:40

Basically I am going to saute these up very quickly in a pan.

0:19:400:19:43

And the roots?

0:19:430:19:44

The first frost is here, so the roots start to get sweeter,

0:19:440:19:48

a bit, so...

0:19:480:19:49

The first frost has been here since January, living in this weather.

0:19:490:19:54

Anyway, basically we're going to quickly saute off our parsnips,

0:19:540:19:56

keep the skin on as well.

0:19:560:19:58

I'm going to saute it off with some shallots, some curry powder,

0:19:580:20:01

some stock in there as well to make a very quick instant soup.

0:20:010:20:05

So I'm going to slice this nice and thin.

0:20:050:20:07

And the curry must be nice with that. It is. A bit of sherry.

0:20:070:20:10

Have you got any sherry?

0:20:100:20:12

Or curry, curry is nice. Did you say sherry or curry?

0:20:120:20:16

Did you say sherry or curry? I said curry. Curry.

0:20:160:20:18

That's what I've got here, Chef. OK, good.

0:20:180:20:20

He's making it up as he goes along. A bit of curry has gone in there.

0:20:200:20:24

A bit of shallot, in we go with the stock, nice and simple soup.

0:20:240:20:27

Now, tell us about your acting because you've got to thank

0:20:270:20:30

your parents, haven't you, for getting you into acting,

0:20:300:20:34

cos they sent you to drama school, didn't they?

0:20:340:20:36

Yeah, they did because I'd been in hospital for such a long time

0:20:360:20:39

because I was badly burnt as a kid.

0:20:390:20:41

I think they just wanted... I had so much energy

0:20:410:20:43

and they wanted me to go somewhere I could get rid of it, I think.

0:20:430:20:47

And they sent me to a little dancing school.

0:20:470:20:49

And I can't dance.

0:20:490:20:51

And the teacher said, please take her away

0:20:510:20:53

and put her upstairs to the drama class.

0:20:530:20:55

And they did and that was it. And that was it.

0:20:550:20:57

I did drama once, I did the nativity play once,

0:20:570:20:59

I played one of the Kings.

0:20:590:21:01

I was so useless at it that they threw me off

0:21:010:21:04

after rehearsals and put me on lighting.

0:21:040:21:07

I was only eight and I only had a switch to put on and off.

0:21:070:21:09

And they kicked me off that as well!

0:21:090:21:11

A bit of curry powder.

0:21:110:21:13

But it paid off - 18 years old, you were at the Old Vic. Yeah.

0:21:130:21:16

With the likes of Daniel Day-Lewis and all that sort of thing.

0:21:160:21:19

It was quite an extraordinary year actually,

0:21:190:21:21

we had loads of people that have done really well since then.

0:21:210:21:24

It's a great school, so... People watching this will remember you

0:21:240:21:28

from At Home With The Braithwaites, a lot of television, and you've done

0:21:280:21:32

theatre and bits and pieces, but I remember the films that you've done.

0:21:320:21:35

You've done some amazing films.

0:21:350:21:37

Thank you. Denzel Washington as well. Yes. You did that.

0:21:370:21:40

What was that? Queen And Country. Ray Winstone as well. Yes.

0:21:400:21:44

Sexy Beast. Yeah.

0:21:440:21:46

Where does your passion lie?

0:21:460:21:47

Is it like most actors, they want to go to the theatre?

0:21:470:21:51

Where was it for you? It's a mixture.

0:21:510:21:53

I think it totally depends on what you're doing, on the show.

0:21:530:21:57

And they are very different sort of techniques that you use.

0:21:570:22:00

And I like mixing it up as much as possible

0:22:000:22:03

because that keeps it interesting.

0:22:030:22:05

I mean, keeping it interesting, you're with a bunch of actors now.

0:22:050:22:09

You're smiling while you're saying that. But doing New Tricks.

0:22:090:22:14

Yes. Because didn't New Tricks start off as a one-off show,

0:22:140:22:18

just one programme? Yes, it did.

0:22:180:22:20

And the viewing figures were phenomenal,

0:22:200:22:22

so we went on and did a first series

0:22:220:22:25

and then each series, the ratings just got higher and higher.

0:22:250:22:29

What are you doing, James, there?

0:22:290:22:31

Sorry, Chef, I'm doing my little beignets, my crab beignets.

0:22:310:22:33

I've got choux pastry,

0:22:330:22:35

crab - brown crab, white crab -

0:22:350:22:37

that's going into a little deep fat fryer.

0:22:370:22:40

Little fritters in there.

0:22:400:22:42

Lovely. Louisiana will be proud of you, they love beignets down there.

0:22:420:22:47

This is a bit of choux pastry.

0:22:470:22:49

We're now in our seventh series. Yeah. And you were on last night.

0:22:490:22:54

Yes, Friday nights, that's right. You play quite a feisty character,

0:22:540:22:57

is that because the three people that you're surrounded by,

0:22:570:23:00

they're all quite...they're quite strong characters in themselves?

0:23:000:23:04

Yeah, I think...a woman in that sort of job has to be.

0:23:040:23:07

She has to be pretty strong and, you know,

0:23:070:23:10

she's got to keep the lid on those three appallingly behaved children.

0:23:100:23:15

Yeah. Are we going to see you after the series has finished,

0:23:150:23:19

are we going to see you on anything else?

0:23:190:23:21

Are you going back to the theatre, what really interests you?

0:23:210:23:23

It totally depends on whatever project comes along

0:23:230:23:26

and if I like it then I'll do it.

0:23:260:23:27

It doesn't matter really where it is.

0:23:270:23:30

So we'll just see what happens.

0:23:300:23:32

If the job's there, we do it. Absolutely.

0:23:320:23:35

And one of the things I want to know about

0:23:350:23:37

is your little school that you set up.

0:23:370:23:39

Didn't you set it up about 12 years ago now? Yeah. Tell us about that.

0:23:390:23:42

I just set it up because I was a bit fed up with all these kids

0:23:420:23:45

coming on television saying, I want to be famous.

0:23:450:23:48

I thought, that's not what it's about, you have to love the craft.

0:23:480:23:51

We got rid of Big Brother, so it's a start.

0:23:510:23:52

That's a start, yes, but only just.

0:23:520:23:55

So we set up this school and all the teachers

0:23:550:23:57

are professional people and the youngest we have is five.

0:23:570:24:01

But there's no ceiling, so we've got people in their 40s as well.

0:24:010:24:05

And that's just gone from strength to strength

0:24:050:24:07

and it's a passion of mine.

0:24:070:24:09

But aren't a selection of actors helping you out as well?

0:24:090:24:12

Yeah, actors, directors, writers, which is fantastic.

0:24:120:24:15

And a lot of them have gone on to do very well themselves.

0:24:150:24:19

You need to be an agent as well.

0:24:190:24:21

Right, so we've got our parsnip soup,

0:24:210:24:24

which I'm going to pour into our blender, like that.

0:24:240:24:27

There we go. We just put the lid on and give this a quick blitz.

0:24:270:24:32

There you go. You want a nice smooth soup, so I'll just take the lid off.

0:24:360:24:40

Maybe put a bit of this liquid in.

0:24:400:24:43

This is ideal for you cos I'm told

0:24:490:24:51

you're a bit impatient in the kitchen.

0:24:510:24:54

Yes, I admire all of you, but I just couldn't spend the time

0:24:540:24:58

and the fiddling, the faffing around with stuff.

0:24:580:25:02

It's easy. Mind you, that was very quick. That seems to be very quick.

0:25:020:25:05

Literally, from start to finish, it will only take...

0:25:050:25:08

..it should only take literally a couple of minutes.

0:25:100:25:12

Five or six minutes to make a soup.

0:25:120:25:15

Then season this up.

0:25:150:25:16

Black pepper, some salt.

0:25:180:25:21

Our beignets are here.

0:25:220:25:24

Switch this off. They haven't made a silent blender yet.

0:25:250:25:29

No, they haven't, Chef, sorry. It's OK. And we just pour that

0:25:290:25:34

straight into there.

0:25:340:25:35

What I'm going to do now is take my little beignets, like that...

0:25:350:25:39

..over there, these are the little crab beignets.

0:25:400:25:43

A little bit of...that's choux pastry with a bit of brown crab.

0:25:430:25:47

A bit of coriander cress. A drizzle of cream over the top.

0:25:470:25:51

There you go. I'm only making it fancy

0:25:510:25:54

cos we're in the present company and all that.

0:25:540:25:56

Has the brown crab got more flavour? I think it has.

0:25:560:26:00

And finally some almonds over the top.

0:26:000:26:02

Just dive into that, that's a quick soup.

0:26:020:26:05

Literally, it's taken five or six minutes to make, not much more.

0:26:050:26:08

It's quite warm.

0:26:080:26:10

A touch of curry powder has gone in there, so it's a bit of spice.

0:26:100:26:13

Mm! Happy with that? It's lovely.

0:26:130:26:16

This will take a little longer

0:26:160:26:18

because you have to grow first the parsnips. Exactly.

0:26:180:26:21

But it's worth it in the end, isn't it?

0:26:210:26:23

And I'd like James to send some of his home-grown parsnips my way too.

0:26:280:26:32

They look delicious.

0:26:320:26:33

Today, we're taking a look back at some of the tastiest recipes

0:26:330:26:36

from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:26:360:26:38

And there's still loads of inspiring dishes to come.

0:26:380:26:41

Time for a blast from the past.

0:26:410:26:42

This was one of my earlier appearances on Saturday Kitchen Live

0:26:420:26:46

back in 2006, ten years ago.

0:26:460:26:48

I'm ageing like fine wine, I hear you say. I know, I really am.

0:26:480:26:51

I whipped up a little Thai beef number,

0:26:510:26:54

though I'm not sure Rupert Everett was impressed.

0:26:540:26:57

See for yourselves.

0:26:570:26:58

Tell us what we're cooking, I'm looking forward to this dish.

0:26:580:27:01

I'm doing a Thai beef salad which is quite an interesting Thai salad,

0:27:010:27:04

and I'm doing it with a classic Thai mango salad, called som tum.

0:27:040:27:08

So you do it without the beef or with the beef.

0:27:080:27:10

But the dressing is really important.

0:27:100:27:12

It's a great staple dressing you can use for lots of other things.

0:27:120:27:15

OK. But the first process, I've got to get this beef on. Yeah.

0:27:150:27:18

It's interesting, people want to know about confit,

0:27:180:27:20

you preserve things. The Thais have been doing this for a long time.

0:27:200:27:23

The confit French would be duck fat, or goose fat.

0:27:230:27:27

Yeah, the confit is basically a confiture,

0:27:270:27:30

it's a preserving technique.

0:27:300:27:32

But what they do is you add salt, take the water out and put fat in.

0:27:320:27:36

But what happens here is I've soaked this beef in fish sauce overnight.

0:27:360:27:41

And... Is this any beef?

0:27:410:27:43

No, this is just trimmed beef because in a restaurant,

0:27:430:27:46

like the restaurant I've got, Smith's,

0:27:460:27:48

is that we use lots of meat and we have lots of trimmings.

0:27:480:27:51

And what you do with those is always very difficult.

0:27:510:27:54

So this is like the fatty, strippy bits you can't use for anything,

0:27:540:27:57

maybe for mince, it's got some sinew in it.

0:27:570:27:59

So, soak it in fish sauce first,

0:27:590:28:01

then I'm going to flavour it with ginger...

0:28:010:28:04

ginger and galangal and lemongrass

0:28:040:28:07

and then I'm going to put lots of coconut milk

0:28:070:28:09

over the top of it and cook it in a tray for quite a long time.

0:28:090:28:13

Let's get that out of the way.

0:28:130:28:14

This fish sauce is readily available.

0:28:140:28:17

Like ginger, like lemongrass. What about this galangal?

0:28:170:28:20

Galangal is basically what they call now grated ginger.

0:28:200:28:24

It's not necessarily necessary, actually.

0:28:240:28:27

It's not ginger taste, is it? It's perfumed-y sort of thing.

0:28:270:28:32

Yes, it looks like a pink root

0:28:320:28:34

and it's a lot more perfumed than ginger.

0:28:340:28:36

But the other thing is that it must be cooked.

0:28:360:28:39

But it's also got a bit of heat to it,

0:28:390:28:41

whereas ginger is quite soft and mild.

0:28:410:28:43

But the galangal's perfumed,

0:28:430:28:45

whereas I think ginger is actually aromatic.

0:28:450:28:49

And I think that's the real difference.

0:28:490:28:51

But the Thais use as much flavour as possible.

0:28:510:28:53

Just chop it up and then get your lemongrass,

0:28:530:28:56

back of a cleaver, and give it a bash, gets rid of your frustrations

0:28:560:29:00

in the morning, you know about that, James? Frustration? I do, exactly.

0:29:000:29:04

You're famous for bringing Australian food over to the UK,

0:29:040:29:07

but Australia takes influences from nearby neighbours.

0:29:070:29:10

So this would be...?

0:29:100:29:12

Obviously in Thailand, the deal is that they are our neighbours.

0:29:120:29:16

You guys have France, you know, and Italy. We have Asia.

0:29:160:29:19

Of course, I grew up in a very hot country,

0:29:190:29:21

so food like this is what you eat.

0:29:210:29:23

You don't eat big stews and stuff. See what I've just done.

0:29:230:29:26

The beef, the aromats, the ginger, the lemongrass and galangal,

0:29:260:29:30

we're going to cover that with foil for 40 minutes.

0:29:300:29:33

Then I'll put it in the oven and it will cook for a really long time.

0:29:330:29:36

If you can swap that for the one in the oven, that would be really nice.

0:29:360:29:40

Right, this beef... Yeah? This looks burnt, mate.

0:29:400:29:43

Is this how it should be? What do you mean? Yeah.

0:29:430:29:47

If it's black it's ready? Look at that. Is that right?

0:29:470:29:50

Yes, it's absolutely perfect.

0:29:500:29:51

This is a really bizarre thing. Everybody goes, "Oh, no!"

0:29:510:29:55

If you try that for your mates,

0:29:550:29:56

you'll have to go out and buy a new saucepan, I think.

0:29:560:29:59

You'll need a new tray. That's been cooking now...

0:29:590:30:01

We did 40 minutes with foil, foil off, two hours.

0:30:010:30:03

What's going to happen, that's going to crumble now.

0:30:030:30:05

But all the flavour of the ginger and coconut milk,

0:30:050:30:08

all that coconut milk's gone into that meat.

0:30:080:30:10

Green mangoes. Yep.

0:30:100:30:12

Green mango or green papaya, but that's not a green papaya,

0:30:120:30:14

that's normal papaya. Green papaya is very long.

0:30:140:30:16

Classically in Thailand, they make something called som tum,

0:30:160:30:19

which is the salad.

0:30:190:30:21

It's basically green mangoes, lots of herbs and beanshoots,

0:30:210:30:25

So if you could do me, while I shred this on the mandolin.

0:30:250:30:29

I've got here coriander, fresh mint and Thai basil.

0:30:290:30:33

You can use normal basil, but Thai basil's a bit more aniseedy.

0:30:330:30:36

You can grow it in your garden as well, it grows very well.

0:30:360:30:39

What, Thai basil? Yeah, grows really well in your garden.

0:30:390:30:42

Fancy, I've learnt something new today.

0:30:420:30:45

This is just shredded.

0:30:450:30:46

I remember you used to go along the street in Thailand

0:30:460:30:49

and this is sort of a staple vegetarian salad.

0:30:490:30:52

We used to watch them and they'd get a knife and go like that...

0:30:520:30:56

But of course we've got this lovely thing called a mandoline.

0:30:560:30:59

If you haven't got one of those, a sharp knife, I suppose.

0:30:590:31:01

A sharp knife, yeah, just shred it up, or even a grater.

0:31:010:31:04

You mentioned green mango, where can people get that from?

0:31:040:31:07

It's not the type of thing you get in the supermarket. Oriental supermarkets?

0:31:070:31:11

Unfortunately a lot of supermarkets do serve green mangoes,

0:31:110:31:14

but that's all right.

0:31:140:31:15

Remember that every town or every city will probably have

0:31:150:31:20

a Chinatown.

0:31:200:31:22

Yeah. OK, that's fine. Not in York, where I come from. Well, OK...

0:31:220:31:26

Really? Not even a Chinatown? They don't have a Chinatown in York!

0:31:260:31:30

You're having a laugh! OK.

0:31:300:31:32

Equal quantities of green mango, green papaya and beanshoots.

0:31:320:31:34

If you don't have green mango, green papaya,

0:31:340:31:37

you can always use...cucumber.

0:31:370:31:40

Yeah. If I give you those shallots and get you to slice those

0:31:400:31:43

while I do my dressing. These aren't normal shallots, these are little...

0:31:430:31:46

These are Thai shallots, little tiny sweet ones.

0:31:460:31:49

They're really nice quite raw. OK?

0:31:490:31:52

There's lots of herbs in there, lots of that bulk, and then the beef.

0:31:520:31:56

To make this actually work and make it into something better...

0:31:560:31:59

Yeah. I got you a knife.

0:31:590:32:01

Sorry. Is my knife not good enough for you?

0:32:010:32:03

OK, calm down.

0:32:030:32:05

What you need to do is... This is what I've got to live with, Rupert.

0:32:050:32:08

Every Saturday I've got to put up with this.

0:32:080:32:11

What I've got here is palm sugar. Yeah.

0:32:110:32:13

You can use brown sugar if you want to, that's fine.

0:32:130:32:15

I'll drop that in the mortar and pestle.

0:32:150:32:17

I've got two dried chillies which I've roasted quite hard

0:32:170:32:20

so they're quite dark and smoky and burnt.

0:32:200:32:22

Lime and I'm going to use fish sauce.

0:32:220:32:24

So there's four ingredients here.

0:32:240:32:27

Sweet - sugar. Hot - being the chillies with the seeds in it.

0:32:270:32:30

Sour being the lime and salty being the fish sauce.

0:32:300:32:33

They should all fill your mouth.

0:32:330:32:35

It looks like quite a bizarre dressing... In here, Chef?

0:32:350:32:38

Yes, please. Give it a good stir around with a fork.

0:32:380:32:41

Are you into oriental food, Rupert?

0:32:410:32:43

No, not really. Not really? No. Do you not like chilli?

0:32:430:32:46

No, I don't like chilli, actually. Oh. It's going well, isn't it?

0:32:460:32:51

Anyway, so... Moving on. Go on, go on.

0:32:510:32:55

Look, this makes lots of noise,

0:32:550:32:58

but this is a base and a really good dressing to remember.

0:32:580:33:01

Just do it in a blender, mate.

0:33:010:33:02

You know why you don't do it in a blender?

0:33:020:33:05

Because what you do is tear the chilli apart

0:33:050:33:06

rather than getting the oils out of it.

0:33:060:33:08

So don't do it in a blender, use a mortar and pestle.

0:33:080:33:10

Whilst I'm doing this, would you do me a favour?

0:33:100:33:12

This is the roast rice. What? This is roast rice. Yeah, roast rice.

0:33:120:33:16

What you do is soak it in water for 20 minutes,

0:33:160:33:18

then put it in the oven and roast it.

0:33:180:33:20

And instead of using peanuts, cos if you have a peanut allergy,

0:33:200:33:23

you can use that in your salads. And it works as well, if not better.

0:33:230:33:27

It's a great flavour, I love it, love it.

0:33:270:33:29

Now, this salad dressing, if you want to keep it as a staple,

0:33:290:33:32

you can use it with cucumber, grilled chicken,

0:33:320:33:35

whatever you like, it's a good simple dressing.

0:33:350:33:38

So, one big nodule of palm sugar, one whole lime juiced,

0:33:380:33:41

two roasted chillies and a good splurt of fish sauce.

0:33:410:33:45

And I mean a good splurt of fish sauce.

0:33:450:33:47

Now, mix it all together. Yeah.

0:33:470:33:50

I'm going to pour this over the top of that one first.

0:33:500:33:53

It almost feels like a rice paste. Yeah, but it's quite a hot dressing.

0:33:530:33:56

Put that over there first.

0:33:560:33:59

It is hot and spicy, I mean, two chillies in there. Yeah.

0:33:590:34:02

Mix that with the chilli dressing first.

0:34:020:34:04

Then we'll put it through with the herbs, if you don't mind.

0:34:040:34:07

We do that because otherwise you burn the herbs.

0:34:070:34:10

Now, that overcooked meat you laughed at, young man,

0:34:100:34:13

if you watch, look at this, look. I'm looking. See what's happening?

0:34:130:34:16

It's shredding and falling apart and it's a great way to use up

0:34:160:34:20

all those scraps rather than throw them in the bin or in the dog bowl.

0:34:200:34:23

And as a restaurateur,

0:34:230:34:24

somehow you've got to be able to make something out of it.

0:34:240:34:27

If you can take some of that for Rupert because he doesn't like meat.

0:34:270:34:31

Frightening. Look at that, OK. And then we'll mix this lot.

0:34:310:34:35

Chop, chop, chop. Could you pass me that bowl there, please?

0:34:350:34:39

I'll pile that on there.

0:34:390:34:41

No, give that back to me, I was beefing at you.

0:34:410:34:44

Come out, come on. Put the plate there, put it there, there!

0:34:440:34:48

Honestly!

0:34:480:34:49

I do love you, James, but you've got to, you know,

0:34:490:34:52

you get very excited, but look, this is fantastic.

0:34:520:34:55

Chilli dressing, in there, now, watch. On top, pile that up.

0:34:550:35:00

Look at that! Roast rice on top of that.

0:35:000:35:03

Remind us what that is again.

0:35:030:35:04

This is a spicy Thai beef salad with green mango

0:35:040:35:08

and loads of chilli sauce.

0:35:080:35:09

Lovely. Sweet and sexy.

0:35:090:35:11

Delicious. Right, I'll just top up a few for Rupert. There we go.

0:35:150:35:19

If you don't like chillies, Rupert, I'm sorry. Come on over here.

0:35:190:35:23

Thank you. There you go, dive into that one. Thank you.

0:35:230:35:27

Dive in. It is hot and spicy, so you've been warned.

0:35:270:35:32

But this, for me, is... Well, it's 10.15 on a Saturday morning.

0:35:320:35:36

It's not that hot and spicy.

0:35:360:35:38

Oh.

0:35:380:35:39

LAUGHTER The roast rice gives it a lovely texture,

0:35:390:35:43

like peanuts rather than using peanuts.

0:35:430:35:45

It's quite unusual using roast rice. It's really hot and spicy.

0:35:450:35:48

What do you reckon? Delicious. Really good.

0:35:500:35:52

The beef is really good.

0:35:520:35:54

If you're thinking of using up trimmings, it's a great way.

0:35:540:35:57

You can use duck legs as well, the same way you make duck confit,

0:35:570:36:00

which is fantastic, and it works really well.

0:36:000:36:02

Or just do this salad without the beef in it. Beautiful.

0:36:020:36:05

Very good, very hot, very spicy, very delicious.

0:36:050:36:08

I'm sorry, Rupert. A vegetarian who is not mad on spices.

0:36:120:36:15

I'm not sure he's my number one fan, but we had fun anyway.

0:36:150:36:19

Up next, we're joining Keith Floyd on another of his culinary tours

0:36:190:36:23

where he's feeding some hungry Frenchmen on a very small boat.

0:36:230:36:26

CLASSICAL MUSIC PLAYS

0:36:260:36:30

Great moral uplift, this stirring music from the London Philharmonic,

0:36:320:36:35

and I need it too, because armed with only food and wine,

0:36:350:36:39

I am engaged to do battle with our oldest enemies,

0:36:390:36:42

you've got it, the dreaded frogs.

0:36:420:36:45

Actually, it's jolly funny to find these garlic-chewing matelots

0:36:450:36:47

storm-bound, hungry and helpless, here in Newlyn,

0:36:470:36:50

and down to their last tin of foie gras.

0:36:500:36:52

THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:36:520:36:56

They've been here for four or five days, they've got no food,

0:36:560:36:59

but they are gastronauts and they phoned The Samaritans, you see,

0:36:590:37:02

so here I am. I'm going to cook for them.

0:37:020:37:05

Our colleagues across the water might have some dubious political motives from time to time,

0:37:050:37:09

like Exocet - we're not talking about that.

0:37:090:37:11

But they really love us when they're in trouble about food.

0:37:110:37:13

And here I am to the rescue - Rule Britannia -

0:37:130:37:16

mustn't say that - up the Marseillaise.

0:37:160:37:18

Because we're in a galley, it's cramped and difficult,

0:37:180:37:21

I've started frying some chicken for them.

0:37:210:37:23

We're going to have to put up with the difficulties,

0:37:230:37:26

like they'd have to, if they were souls in peril on the sea.

0:37:260:37:29

There's some chicken frying in olive oil.

0:37:290:37:31

I will make the point - this is a free-range, really good chicken.

0:37:310:37:35

This tea towel is called denim and denim comes from Nimes,

0:37:350:37:38

in the south of France.

0:37:380:37:40

That's why it's called denim. De Nimes - from Nimes.

0:37:400:37:42

Denim - get it? Right, OK.

0:37:420:37:44

Then, Richard, stay with me.

0:37:440:37:46

Here we are, our elegantly prepared ingredients.

0:37:460:37:48

We have some red peppers, some green peppers, some onions,

0:37:480:37:53

some garlic, some parsley, olives,

0:37:530:37:56

a beaten-up couple of eggs for later use and some double cream.

0:37:560:37:59

Also, we're going to use some canned tomatoes.

0:37:590:38:04

They didn't grow on the mast on this ship, they normally do.

0:38:040:38:08

Right. So it's a state of go.

0:38:080:38:10

We've got to go with it.

0:38:100:38:12

Into this pan here - Richard, never mind the fumes -

0:38:120:38:15

olive oil and put our onions in.

0:38:150:38:17

OK, sizzle-sizzle, the onions they go.

0:38:180:38:21

And we stir those round till they're a bit brown.

0:38:260:38:28

They're going brown already. Isn't it magic, how we can cook on a boat?

0:38:280:38:31

A lot of you can't cook at home, even.

0:38:310:38:34

In with the red peppers.

0:38:340:38:36

Stir those round.

0:38:390:38:40

You realise... Richard, come back to me.

0:38:420:38:45

You realise that my reputation's really on the line here.

0:38:450:38:48

They sent out an SOS - Mayday! Mayday! Send Floyd, send Floyd.

0:38:480:38:52

But if I screw up this dinner, I've really had it.

0:38:520:38:54

So don't forget that. So, pray for me, OK?

0:38:540:38:57

Come back.

0:38:580:38:59

In we go with the whole garlic.

0:39:000:39:03

A little branch of thyme is going in this other pot with the chicken.

0:39:040:39:08

Come over here, Richard.

0:39:080:39:10

Into the chicken.

0:39:100:39:12

Now, that all has to settle

0:39:120:39:14

and brown down for a moment or two

0:39:140:39:16

before I can add the tomatoes.

0:39:160:39:18

# Slurp, slurpity slurp slurp Slurp slurp... #

0:39:180:39:22

Very necessary quick slurp there.

0:39:220:39:24

Things have progressed a bit, cooking's going quite well.

0:39:240:39:27

It's a rather delicate dish despite my rough handling of it,

0:39:270:39:30

because I'm under a certain amount of pressure here -

0:39:300:39:32

the space, Richard having difficulty seeing things.

0:39:320:39:34

You'll have to take my word for what's going on in a lot of ways.

0:39:340:39:37

I must now go on to the second phase of the cooking,

0:39:370:39:40

which is to add the tomatoes to the chicken.

0:39:400:39:43

Like that.

0:39:450:39:46

That's one thing.

0:39:460:39:48

Now, using this wonderful cloth,

0:39:490:39:52

I must put all the peppers...

0:39:520:39:54

..into the chicken too.

0:39:570:39:59

This is where I like to pass it to my assistant -

0:39:590:40:02

the 20 or 30 people that are behind us, working away to help me.

0:40:020:40:06

But I'll give it to the director in

0:40:060:40:07

the hope he burns his little fingers.

0:40:070:40:09

OFF-SCREEN: Ah! Oh, he did. Ha-ha! Excellent.

0:40:090:40:12

So I'll move that over nearer the cameraman.

0:40:120:40:15

Sacrifice...all my problems.

0:40:170:40:19

All I have to do now is let that cook for 25 or 30 minutes with the lid on.

0:40:200:40:24

Talking of the lid, aren't the French an ingenious lot?

0:40:240:40:27

I'm having to hold this by a cloth as it's so hot,

0:40:270:40:30

but they, as a wine-drinking nation, utilise their corks to the limit.

0:40:300:40:33

That will save you from burning your little fingers - rather good.

0:40:330:40:36

So that goes on.

0:40:360:40:38

I have a little glassette.

0:40:390:40:41

Which will cheer me up enormously.

0:40:430:40:45

And in a little while, 25-30 minutes, we'll come back,

0:40:450:40:48

have a game of cards with the lads and have a really good supper.

0:40:480:40:51

See you later.

0:40:510:40:52

SONG TO THE TUNE OF LA MARSEILLAISE

0:40:520:40:55

Ecoute, je dis silence!

0:41:010:41:03

THEY LAUGH

0:41:030:41:05

Oh, they're impossible, these French, they make so much noise.

0:41:050:41:08

Anyway... J'ai dit silence.

0:41:080:41:10

Et ta soeur.

0:41:100:41:12

LAUGHTER Sois sage!

0:41:120:41:14

Bon, right, Richard, viens ici.

0:41:140:41:16

While you were away I stirred in some cream,

0:41:160:41:19

egg yolks and some olives, OK?

0:41:190:41:21

Now, we're going to feed the boys.

0:41:210:41:23

Follow me round - be tricky in this cramped galley, but it was they

0:41:230:41:28

who cooked the rice, so if they really complain, it's their problem.

0:41:280:41:33

Right, chaps.

0:41:330:41:34

Thank you. Merci.

0:41:340:41:36

THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:41:380:41:40

THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:41:510:41:53

I don't know if this is going to help,

0:41:540:41:56

they'll probably cancel the Channel Tunnel because of this.

0:41:560:42:00

But I've done my best, it is the moment of truth.

0:42:000:42:02

These are hearty trenchermen - they are loudmouthed, critical,

0:42:020:42:06

arrogant Frenchmen, who are looking at me as if I've got green horns

0:42:060:42:10

cos they think we have and I've come off the moon.

0:42:100:42:12

Listen, boys, ecoute, c'est mangeable ou pas?

0:42:120:42:15

C'est bon. Ca va? Ah oui.

0:42:150:42:18

You see, they're so damn critical...

0:42:180:42:21

HE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:42:210:42:24

Richard, you see, they're all experts,

0:42:330:42:36

the French are experts on rugby,

0:42:360:42:38

on Channel fixed-link crossings, on fishing. HE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:42:380:42:42

Ta gueule! Which is in French, "Silence, if you please."

0:42:420:42:45

They're experts on everything.

0:42:450:42:46

He said to me, "I think you added the cream a bit too quickly."

0:42:460:42:50

You can't win them all, but if we hadn't fed them,

0:42:500:42:52

they'd have starved. They're stuck in Newlyn.

0:42:520:42:55

I would say England six - France five and a half.

0:42:550:42:58

Anyone can prepare a meal in the comfort

0:43:040:43:06

and warmth of a modern kitchen.

0:43:060:43:08

Fridges and running water to hand

0:43:080:43:09

and a quick slurp as you peruse the glossy pages of your cookbook.

0:43:090:43:12

But when the chips are really down

0:43:120:43:14

and there's nothing on the clock but the maker's name,

0:43:140:43:17

you need rather more than a tin of cook-in sauce to get by.

0:43:170:43:20

I'm standing on a rather curious ship.

0:43:200:43:23

It's called HMS Raleigh and one of the very good things about it is

0:43:230:43:26

it will never sink because it's here firmly on more or less dry land.

0:43:260:43:29

And with me today is Ken Davies, who is a Chief Petty Officer.

0:43:290:43:32

Ken, we're here sort of parachuted into this remarkable situation

0:43:320:43:35

of people cooking poppadoms and curry.

0:43:350:43:37

What on earth is going on?

0:43:370:43:39

Well, we're training for a disaster exercise in emergency feeding

0:43:390:43:43

so that we can put people ashore quickly

0:43:430:43:45

and feed quickly with anything that's available.

0:43:450:43:49

But this is pretty impressive. I'm having poppadoms.

0:43:490:43:51

What's in this pot here. Richard, let's have a look at the pot.

0:43:510:43:54

This is a beef curry in here, sir. A beef curry?

0:43:540:43:56

I have conveniently in my hand... What's your name, by the way?

0:43:560:43:59

Wellington. Good morning, Wellington. Can I call you George?

0:43:590:44:04

This is the Floyd programme here. No regimentation here.

0:44:040:44:06

My friends call me Wally, but not by name... Well done, Wally.

0:44:060:44:09

You're a brilliant curry chef. ..by nature.

0:44:090:44:11

That is terrific. You're cooking on clay and mud and wood.

0:44:130:44:19

We build it out of any old bricks we can find, any mud we can find.

0:44:190:44:23

Any old bits of old equipment we can get on the ships.

0:44:230:44:25

Old dustbins, metal plates that the engineers might have spare.

0:44:250:44:29

45-gallon drums that we can cut down and improvise with. Brilliant.

0:44:290:44:32

So, what's the menu today?

0:44:320:44:34

Well, we have a curry on today. We have liver and bacon, roast chicken.

0:44:340:44:38

We start off with soup, of course. It's all as per our manual.

0:44:380:44:42

Brilliant, let's go to another oven and have a look.

0:44:420:44:45

Now this is a weird set-up.

0:44:510:44:52

You housewives at home say to me, "You're a flamboyant chap.

0:44:520:44:55

"You've got all the facilities in the world to cook brilliantly.

0:44:550:44:58

"It's very difficult at home." Look what these boys are doing.

0:44:580:45:01

Blinking dustbins.

0:45:010:45:02

They cook out of here better than what most of you

0:45:020:45:04

throw into them, you know that, don't you?

0:45:040:45:06

Let's look in there. Look, bread being baked.

0:45:060:45:09

This is really quite remarkable.

0:45:090:45:11

It's nice to know that if we ever get nuked,

0:45:110:45:13

when Birmingham and Manchester and London have been destroyed,

0:45:130:45:16

the Navy will be there setting up superb restaurants on the devastated street corners.

0:45:160:45:20

Won't you actually do that for us? We will. You'll do that, as well.

0:45:200:45:23

And then, in here...

0:45:230:45:24

These are beautiful chickens being roasted.

0:45:240:45:26

They're stuffed, they've got wonderful vegetables

0:45:260:45:29

and braising juices underneath.

0:45:290:45:30

Come on, if they can do it here, you can do it at home. That's for sure.

0:45:300:45:33

I tell you one thing that's missing. We haven't got a drink.

0:45:330:45:36

Do the Navy still issue rum? Not to us any more, I'm afraid.

0:45:360:45:39

Not any more? Unfortunately not.

0:45:390:45:41

That's pretty bad, isn't it? We've got another stove over here.

0:45:410:45:43

Richard, you'll have to walk around and follow us a bit.

0:45:430:45:46

This is a normal stove, as you might have at home.

0:45:460:45:48

But you haven't got a normal cook here. This is a lady sailor.

0:45:480:45:50

A lady sailor. Good morning. Good morning.

0:45:500:45:52

Cook of the Year 1982, I might add. What are you doing in there?

0:45:520:45:55

Cheese sauce. Can I taste it with my poppadom? Yes, certainly.

0:45:550:45:58

And what's it going to go on? The cauliflower.

0:45:580:46:01

Do you always cook in the middle of fields or sometimes do you

0:46:010:46:04

cook on ships? No, we don't go on ships. Never?

0:46:040:46:07

Never. Where else do you cook, besides here?

0:46:070:46:09

I cook for the First Sea Lord, in London.

0:46:090:46:11

Oh, blimey. So they're doing all right, aren't they?

0:46:110:46:14

The First Sea Lords,

0:46:140:46:16

ever since Hornblower, have had an eye for the ladies.

0:46:160:46:18

Interesting, isn't it?

0:46:180:46:20

Where to now, Ken?

0:46:200:46:22

'The Navy say the three most useless things on a ship are an umbrella,

0:46:220:46:26

'a vicar and a naval officer.

0:46:260:46:28

'So if I stretch that to four and include me,

0:46:280:46:31

'I reckon it's time I left them to it.

0:46:310:46:33

'After all, too many cooks in this case can spoil the broth.

0:46:330:46:36

'So I'll slip into something more comfortable

0:46:360:46:39

'and head for a modest little caff in the heart of Dartmoor.

0:46:390:46:42

'Now, he said, left is port, right is left. I don't know.

0:46:420:46:44

'Just after the first cart shack, right at the second sheep dip.

0:46:440:46:48

'All hands, abandon car.

0:46:520:46:54

'Ah, there it is. There it is.

0:46:540:46:56

'So typical of the friendly, unpretentious little hostelries

0:46:560:46:59

'of which this fair land is so justifiably proud.'

0:46:590:47:03

And in the words of the old song, it's a long way to Tip-a-drink-down.

0:47:030:47:06

I don't know how they get customers here.

0:47:060:47:08

I know, in fact, their prestigious reputation drags them

0:47:080:47:10

from all four corners of the earth.

0:47:100:47:12

Particularly from America, where, it's true,

0:47:120:47:14

even Americans know how to eat these days. Sorry about that, chaps.

0:47:140:47:17

Anyway, Sean is the chef here.

0:47:170:47:18

He's a maitre cuisinier, he's a superb bloke.

0:47:180:47:20

I've known him intimately for about 11 minutes.

0:47:200:47:23

Could have been 12. Could have been 12.

0:47:230:47:25

I know how you get your customers, it's your cooking.

0:47:250:47:28

But where do you get your food from?

0:47:280:47:29

All over the place, but with difficulty.

0:47:290:47:32

You can see that the lanes are a bit difficult to negotiate,

0:47:320:47:36

but an example is the fish here. Norman Lewis has brought the fish.

0:47:360:47:40

Can we just have a look at Norman? He's our token fisherman. Say hello.

0:47:400:47:45

Hello. All that sort of thing.

0:47:450:47:47

What have we got in here, Norman? It looks absolutely superb.

0:47:470:47:50

We've got turbot here.

0:47:500:47:52

John Dory, red mullet, scallops and Dover sole.

0:47:520:47:57

This is what your right arm is for. Left one's for pointing at the fish.

0:47:570:48:01

That's really brilliant.

0:48:010:48:03

This is all Cornish fish? That's right, yeah.

0:48:030:48:05

I've been seeing a few sort of... And that does smell beautiful.

0:48:050:48:09

Let me tell you, fish doesn't smell of fish, does it?

0:48:090:48:12

It smells of the seaside, of the sea. It's really beautiful stuff.

0:48:120:48:14

These beautiful Cornish ones, there are some Indian ones

0:48:140:48:17

on the market, they're not as good as these. Anyway, Sean...

0:48:170:48:20

Thank you very much for being our token fisherman. Very kind of you.

0:48:200:48:23

See you soon. You know, fish along.

0:48:230:48:25

And what are you going to do with this lot?

0:48:250:48:27

Well, I'm going to take the fillets off and steam them

0:48:270:48:31

and serve them with a butter sauce

0:48:310:48:33

and I'm going to make the butter sauce

0:48:330:48:35

with the bones and bits and pieces, head from the fish.

0:48:350:48:38

You can't actually know what you're going to cook

0:48:380:48:40

until this fish arrives, can you?

0:48:400:48:41

No, I can't make a menu until I know what comes.

0:48:410:48:43

That's a very important point which I always say on this programme.

0:48:430:48:47

Don't do your menu until you've done the shopping.

0:48:470:48:49

I think it's enough chat from me.

0:48:490:48:51

Enough chat from him, how about a bit of filleting?

0:48:510:48:54

There's going to be a lot of filleting

0:48:580:49:00

and you won't find that all that interesting,

0:49:000:49:02

so look at my happy, smiling face having a slurp

0:49:020:49:05

and we'll rejoin you after the break.

0:49:050:49:07

Welcome back, welcome back. I do mean that most sincerely.

0:49:250:49:28

As you can see, my mate Sean has been very busy

0:49:280:49:30

filleting all these fishes and stuff.

0:49:300:49:32

Richard, I'm talking to the public, please. Thank you.

0:49:320:49:35

I do have such trouble with him.

0:49:350:49:37

What we're doing here is a panache of poisson.

0:49:370:49:40

Panache is French for shandy, mixture.

0:49:400:49:43

You know, so when you're on your little hols this year,

0:49:430:49:45

park the tent, down the pub, "One panache, John, por favor."

0:49:450:49:49

That's what you'll get.

0:49:490:49:50

Anyway, here we are. Is this nouvelle cuisine?

0:49:500:49:54

Well, it's difficult to call. Nouvelle cuisine has got a bad name.

0:49:540:49:59

The good parts of it did away with the worst of the excesses

0:49:590:50:02

of the old cooking, elaborate garnishes and...things like that.

0:50:020:50:09

But, unfortunately,

0:50:090:50:10

the people who couldn't cook the old cooking can't cook the new either.

0:50:100:50:13

No, that is a very important point.

0:50:130:50:14

There's a thing which has done nouvelle cuisine a lot of harm -

0:50:140:50:17

a guy who can't make a good omelette or a good coq au vin...

0:50:170:50:19

No, no, he still can't make it. ..he still can't do it now.

0:50:190:50:21

But this is sort of slightly Chinese-y, isn't it, as well?

0:50:210:50:24

Very Chinese.

0:50:240:50:25

And the fact is that the pieces are cut

0:50:250:50:27

so they'll cook roughly at the same time,

0:50:270:50:30

just like in a wok, when you put the different pieces in,

0:50:300:50:33

cut to cook so it'll be ready at the same time. Fine.

0:50:330:50:37

Well, having said all of that, let's get it into the steamer.

0:50:370:50:40

So there it goes, into the... Hold on, don't put the lid on.

0:50:420:50:45

Richard, come right in there. There's a simple steamer.

0:50:450:50:48

If you haven't got one like that, of course, you can organise

0:50:480:50:50

something with a colander and a saucepan and rig it up at home.

0:50:500:50:53

Lid on, then.

0:50:530:50:55

So now the cooking has to happen, which Sean is going to do.

0:50:550:50:58

Can I pass you anything, Sean? Yes, the stocks, please. The stocks.

0:50:580:51:01

Can I just show Richard these?

0:51:010:51:03

This is a white fish stock, OK?

0:51:030:51:05

Fish bones and things simmered gently down

0:51:050:51:08

till it turns into jelly.

0:51:080:51:09

And a shellfish stock.

0:51:090:51:11

Then all that Sean is now going to do is whisk some butter into those

0:51:110:51:15

to thicken them and make them delicious.

0:51:150:51:17

Richard, if you just come back to me for a second.

0:51:170:51:19

You might find it rather difficult to make those kind of stocks

0:51:190:51:22

in your own home. The principle here is the poaching of very fresh fish -

0:51:220:51:25

you could put lemon and butter over them, they'd still be delicious. OK?

0:51:250:51:28

So don't worry about this sophisticated sort of thing.

0:51:280:51:31

Back here now, while Sean is beating some butter,

0:51:310:51:33

as you can see, into the sauce.

0:51:330:51:35

That makes it thick and unctuous, delicious, golden and tasty.

0:51:350:51:39

Can I...? They hate me doing this.

0:51:390:51:41

Can I just, um...?

0:51:410:51:42

Why, that's superb. And then on to other one, using the same...

0:51:420:51:46

Oh, yes. ..the same technique.

0:51:460:51:48

Just beating some butter in there to thicken it,

0:51:480:51:50

putting it at the back of the stove.

0:51:500:51:52

Stay there while he gets the butter.

0:51:520:51:55

A little whiskation.

0:51:560:51:58

It's quite interesting. So there you are, you see?

0:51:580:52:00

It's actually sort of a beurre blanc, is what's being made here,

0:52:000:52:04

in professional and technical terms.

0:52:040:52:06

And it's just simple, slow cooking, quickly finished with rich butter.

0:52:060:52:09

Richard, come up here a minute. It's quite interesting, isn't it?

0:52:090:52:12

You know, people like this guy are stars.

0:52:120:52:14

I mean, they're not Formula One racing drivers,

0:52:140:52:16

they're not lead singers in the rock and roll band,

0:52:160:52:19

but they're just as important, just as famous.

0:52:190:52:21

That wouldn't have happened years ago, would it?

0:52:210:52:23

I'm very pleased it is. Anyway, back here. We nearly ready, aren't we?

0:52:230:52:26

We certainly are. OK.

0:52:260:52:27

Can I hold the plate? Richard, you stay with us on the plate.

0:52:280:52:31

Sean is go to transfer this beautiful fish onto here.

0:52:310:52:34

You are, aren't you? Yes. You're not nervous, are you?

0:52:340:52:37

I'm trying not to be. No, you doing brilliantly.

0:52:370:52:40

You know, cooks shouldn't be interfered with by cameras

0:52:400:52:43

and things like that, anyway.

0:52:430:52:45

Now, we take it off this plate so that...

0:52:450:52:48

It's a large plate and it can be arranged attractively, artistically.

0:52:480:52:51

This is a painting.

0:52:510:52:53

This is a man's canvas you're watching here.

0:52:530:52:56

And the varnish to preserve it for posterity like an old oil painting

0:52:560:52:59

is going to be two beautiful, sweet sauces.

0:52:590:53:04

Right. Whack the sauces on, my dear.

0:53:050:53:08

Can you...? Sorry, do you mind? Turn it that way so that people can see.

0:53:120:53:17

Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful.

0:53:170:53:19

That's the white fish stock and butter sauce.

0:53:190:53:22

And this is the shellfish sauce.

0:53:220:53:24

And that, I think, is a piscatorial masterpiece.

0:53:300:53:34

CAT YOWLS

0:53:340:53:37

Brilliant. I just love that man.

0:53:420:53:44

And, as ever on Best Bites, we're looking back

0:53:440:53:47

at some of the most delicious recipes

0:53:470:53:49

from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:53:490:53:51

Still to come on today's show...

0:53:510:53:53

Like a thorn between two roses,

0:53:530:53:55

Wolfgang Puck faced one of the beautiful Hemsley sisters

0:53:550:53:58

in the Omelette Challenge.

0:53:580:54:00

So which sister went head-to-head

0:54:000:54:01

with one of the greatest restaurateurs on the planet?

0:54:010:54:04

Find out in just a few minutes.

0:54:040:54:06

Champion of great Scottish produce Tom Kitchin

0:54:060:54:09

is game for grouse with his seasonal dish.

0:54:090:54:11

The grouse is wrapped in bacon, roasted and served

0:54:110:54:14

with roasted pumpkin, Jerusalem artichokes and beetroot,

0:54:140:54:17

with a hazelnut dressing.

0:54:170:54:19

And Sue Perkins faces her food heaven or food hell.

0:54:190:54:22

Did she get her food heaven, a hazelnut chocolate gateau?

0:54:220:54:26

Or did she end up facing her food hell,

0:54:260:54:27

goat's cheese on brioche with redcurrant dressing.

0:54:270:54:30

You can find out what she got at the end of the show.

0:54:300:54:34

Jamie Oliver's former mentor, Theo Randall,

0:54:340:54:36

joined guest host Matt Tebbutt

0:54:360:54:38

to make a mouthwatering lamb rump with salsa verde.

0:54:380:54:41

If you're not hungry yet, then you will be after this.

0:54:410:54:44

Right, big rump of... OK, rump of lamb. ..lamb.

0:54:440:54:47

It's one of those cuts that's not used that often. Yeah.

0:54:470:54:50

It's a reasonably priced cut. I use it a lot. Yeah, I'm sure you do.

0:54:500:54:53

You know. But it's delicious.

0:54:530:54:54

And it's a little bit cheaper.

0:54:540:54:56

It's quite reasonably priced, yes. It's a good price for it.

0:54:560:54:58

At this time of year, it's fantastic,

0:54:580:55:00

a nice amount of fat on it. Yeah.

0:55:000:55:01

And, with it, we'll do onion squash. Cool, lovely.

0:55:010:55:03

Called onion squash cos it looks like an onion.

0:55:030:55:05

Looks a bit like an onion. Yeah.

0:55:050:55:07

And we're going to roast that and then we're going to make

0:55:070:55:09

a salsa verde, which you're going to make, with capers,

0:55:090:55:11

anchovies, bit of mustard, a bit of garlic... OK.

0:55:110:55:14

..and lots of nice herbs. And some spinach. Beautiful.

0:55:140:55:17

You're a real purist, aren't you?

0:55:170:55:18

Your salsa verde, you're not messing around with it,

0:55:180:55:20

you're not adding anything? No, no, nothing.

0:55:200:55:22

No gherkins or anything like that. That would be wrong, shameful.

0:55:220:55:25

It's a pure thing. So first we start off with the lamb.

0:55:250:55:28

Take off the outer part. You're going to peel that squash.

0:55:280:55:31

OK, I'm on it. You don't have to peel them.

0:55:310:55:33

I mean, they have got masses of flavour, the skin.

0:55:330:55:36

Could you do something with that?

0:55:360:55:38

I'm sure a very clever chef could dry that out and do something.

0:55:380:55:41

Well, you're very clever. I don't. I don't generally peel it, actually.

0:55:410:55:45

I just roast it off. So I'm just going to trim off some of the fat,

0:55:450:55:48

just so the marinade can go into the lamb.

0:55:480:55:50

Why are you taking the fat off?

0:55:500:55:51

I'll leave a little bit on, but just to kind of break it up a bit,

0:55:510:55:54

just a get that marinade into the top of the lamb. OK.

0:55:540:55:57

If you don't, the fat will stop marinating.

0:55:570:55:59

And how long are you going to marinated for?

0:55:590:56:00

Ideally, I would marinate for a day. But an hour will work. Yeah, OK. OK.

0:56:000:56:05

So I'm just going to wash my hands.

0:56:050:56:08

And then what we're going to do,

0:56:080:56:09

we're going to put the lamb into a bowl. OK.

0:56:090:56:13

And we're going to put some lemon juice in.

0:56:130:56:15

Right, but that's going to slowly start cooking it, no?

0:56:150:56:18

Well, that's the idea.

0:56:180:56:19

The lemon juice will sort of start cooking it,

0:56:190:56:21

start breaking down all those little tendons. Right, OK.

0:56:210:56:23

So you want to get the lemon juice in. Quite a lot of it.

0:56:230:56:26

It's a good cut of meat, but you need to rest it quite a lot.

0:56:260:56:28

Well, it's quite a dense cut, and it's got quite a lot of sinew

0:56:280:56:31

in there, so it's very important that you actually marinate it.

0:56:310:56:34

I mean, you can cook it straight away,

0:56:340:56:36

but it will be slightly tough.

0:56:360:56:37

And it will have that kind of slightly lamb-y flavour,

0:56:370:56:40

if that makes sense.

0:56:400:56:41

Ken, do you use a lot of lamb in Chinese cooking?

0:56:410:56:43

Not really, but I love Theo's food because it's...

0:56:430:56:46

It's light, it's that kind of... That salsa is wonderful. Yeah.

0:56:460:56:51

And what do you...? A lot of chefs, myself included, when we finish...

0:56:510:56:56

When we finish cooking in our restaurants, we go for Chinese.

0:56:560:57:00

I know. LAUGHTER

0:57:000:57:01

What do you look for when you finish? I go for fish and chips!

0:57:010:57:05

LAUGHTER

0:57:050:57:06

I don't believe that. No, I don't believe that.

0:57:060:57:08

You look far too healthy for that.

0:57:080:57:09

No, I just go have Theo's food.

0:57:090:57:12

Right. So seeds out as well, yeah?

0:57:120:57:13

So seeds out.

0:57:130:57:15

In the marinade, we've got garlic, rosemary, lemon juice, olive oil.

0:57:150:57:18

Don't like this pourer. Here we go. Take that off.

0:57:180:57:20

Get some oil in there. I've taken it off.

0:57:200:57:21

I don't like those either. OK, a bit of lemon juice.

0:57:210:57:24

So give that a really good marinate. Yeah?

0:57:240:57:26

And then sort of get that garlic really into the meat. OK.

0:57:260:57:30

And then we're going to cover that in clingfilm. Right.

0:57:300:57:34

And then pop it in the fridge. OK. And leave that for...

0:57:340:57:37

The oven's beeping at me, Theo.

0:57:370:57:39

Let's take that lamb out. So I suggest it's done. OK.

0:57:390:57:43

OK, nice and pink. Fridge.

0:57:430:57:46

And then... Here you are.

0:57:460:57:47

Are you going to let that rest in the pan, or it on a plate?

0:57:470:57:50

Just put it on the side here, get it away from the heat.

0:57:500:57:53

So I'll pop that there.

0:57:530:57:55

And all that lovely fat from the lamb is sort of coming out.

0:57:550:57:57

How long will you rest that for?

0:57:570:57:59

Because, like I said, it is not a rack,

0:57:590:58:00

it hasn't got that sort of melty quality, has it?

0:58:000:58:03

It needs a little bit. At least five minutes. Right, OK.

0:58:030:58:06

So let's get the squash going.

0:58:060:58:08

Right, I'm nearly there. That's fine. One half will do.

0:58:080:58:11

So we're just going to cut the squash in half and then quarters.

0:58:110:58:14

OK. Or rather eighths. And then... Shall I get on with the salsa verde?

0:58:140:58:17

You can get on the salsa verde.

0:58:170:58:19

All that garlic? Just one clove, not too much.

0:58:190:58:21

Too much raw garlic's not nice. And then...

0:58:210:58:24

mint, parsley, anchovy, capers and mustard.

0:58:240:58:27

So I've put this squash in a bowl, add some olive oil.

0:58:270:58:30

Good old olive oil.

0:58:300:58:32

Salt and pepper, nice amount of seasoning. And then some thyme.

0:58:320:58:36

And just pull the thyme off.

0:58:360:58:38

Thyme and squash, it's a really nice combination.

0:58:380:58:41

LOUD POUNDING You'll have to speak up!

0:58:410:58:44

LOUDER: You can use butternut squash if you want,

0:58:440:58:47

but onion squash has got a much...

0:58:470:58:49

You know, more interesting flavour, I find. Right, OK.

0:58:490:58:52

And then just give that a good toss in the bowl. Yeah.

0:58:520:58:54

And then put it into a dish.

0:58:540:58:55

You can use an earthenware dish or anything, really.

0:58:550:58:58

And then I'm go to cover it in tinfoil.

0:58:580:59:00

I feel like I'm shouting! You are.

0:59:000:59:02

OK. And then cover it with tinfoil.

0:59:020:59:05

And bake that in the oven for about half an hour. OK.

0:59:050:59:08

And what happens is it sort of steams and you get that

0:59:080:59:10

lovely sort of sweetness from the squash.

0:59:100:59:12

So that goes in the oven.

0:59:120:59:14

And you want all these herbs chopped up, do I need to save any?

0:59:140:59:16

Sorry? Do I need to save any of these herbs? No, no.

0:59:160:59:19

Do you want it all chopped up? It's all...

0:59:190:59:22

There's no garnish on top, there's no sprig of parsley on my food. No?

0:59:220:59:26

And just seal that off. That's a very hot pan. Seal it off.

0:59:260:59:29

Add a bit of... Nicer matter seasoning. You can see.

0:59:300:59:33

Come over here, look at the marinade,

0:59:330:59:34

it's really kind of cooked the meat. Yeah.

0:59:340:59:36

Well, that's turned it just that sort of opaque colour. Yeah.

0:59:360:59:39

OK, and that's the lemon juice? That'd the lemon juice in that.

0:59:390:59:41

So we're just going to colour that up, get a bit of colour on it.

0:59:410:59:44

And so seal it over on all sides So you couldn't...

0:59:440:59:47

You said overnight, but it's going to be pretty cooked, then, no?

0:59:470:59:50

Yeah, but that's kind of nice.

0:59:500:59:51

You've got that sort of much richer flavour. And that won't toughen it?

0:59:510:59:54

No, it doesn't toughen it. It does the opposite.

0:59:540:59:56

Now pop that into the oven for about 15 minutes at about 375, 390.

0:59:561:00:01

What have you got in here?

1:00:011:00:02

Marjoram in here, is there? A bit of marjoram, yeah.

1:00:021:00:04

An interesting herb. Strong, strong herb. They're all soft herbs.

1:00:041:00:07

You can't use hard herbs in something like salsa verde.

1:00:071:00:09

Something like rosemary or thyme, forget it, it won't work.

1:00:091:00:12

OK. So we get rid of that. So what's this London Festival you're...?

1:00:121:00:16

The London Restaurant Festival. We're involved in it.

1:00:161:00:19

It's a great thing. It sort of started last year,

1:00:191:00:21

and it's getting bigger and bigger.

1:00:211:00:22

And we did this thing called Gourmet Odyssey,

1:00:221:00:24

where a London bus goes up and down Park Lane and goes to

1:00:241:00:28

a few restaurants, and we're doing the dessert course. OK.

1:00:281:00:31

And so they all come to us, probably after having had a few...

1:00:311:00:34

A full bus? ..a few drinks, and then having the dessert course.

1:00:341:00:37

That's a good idea. So how many people is that?

1:00:371:00:39

60-odd people, is it? How many people do you get on a bus?

1:00:391:00:41

It's about 60, 70 people, all in one go. They just sort of turn up.

1:00:411:00:44

"Hey, we're here." That's like a Saturday night at my place. Yeah.

1:00:441:00:47

I'm sure. Everyone turns up at 8:30. OK, so I put some spinach in.

1:00:471:00:50

We've got this lovely English spinach.

1:00:501:00:52

I left a bit of the stalk on it,

1:00:521:00:54

cos I think the stalks are almost the best part of the spinach.

1:00:541:00:57

And then... Not tough, no?

1:00:571:00:59

Not tough, no. And if it's fresh spinach, you know,

1:00:591:01:01

it's really delicious. So just squeeze out any of the excess water.

1:01:011:01:07

All right. And then we're going to get our lamb.

1:01:071:01:09

And you want quite a loose salsa verde?

1:01:091:01:11

Yeah, quite loose. Nice and loose. OK. So we've got Dijon mustard.

1:01:111:01:15

Dijon mustard. We've got capers in here, we've got a clove of garlic.

1:01:151:01:18

What were the herbs? We've got mint in there, we've got parsley.

1:01:181:01:21

And marjoram. Marjoram, that's it.

1:01:211:01:22

And there was bit of rocket, I think.

1:01:221:01:24

Little bit of rocket. Floating around in there.

1:01:241:01:26

And then... but no salt?

1:01:261:01:28

You don't need the salt, cos you've got...

1:01:281:01:30

The seasoning is really the anchovy and the capers.

1:01:301:01:32

Both of those are salted, and then preserved in oil, so...

1:01:321:01:35

I've missed the garlic. Let me get that done.

1:01:351:01:37

Don't forget your garlic. OK?

1:01:371:01:38

And then... So where do you get your inspiration from?

1:01:381:01:41

Obviously, it's Italy, but do you make a point

1:01:411:01:43

of travelling around on your holidays and finding new...?

1:01:431:01:46

I've just come back from a holiday in Puglia,

1:01:461:01:48

but I get my inspiration from ingredients. Yeah?

1:01:481:01:50

I find that, you know, even going to Italy...

1:01:501:01:52

Talking to Ken earlier,

1:01:521:01:53

just saying it's so nice when you go to Italy to actually cook yourself,

1:01:531:01:56

because you find these amazing ingredients,

1:01:561:01:58

and even though you want to eat in lots of restaurants,

1:01:581:02:00

eating and cooking at home is, you know,

1:02:001:02:02

kind of part of the inspiration. I find that much more fun sometimes.

1:02:021:02:05

You know when you're confined to fewer ingredients

1:02:051:02:07

and you play around with them, I think it's great fun.

1:02:071:02:09

So we put our onion squash on. Some nice spinach.

1:02:091:02:12

And then we get our lamb. Let's get rid of...

1:02:121:02:15

That the salsa verde. I need you to do me a favour now.

1:02:151:02:17

What's that? It's my wife's birthday today,

1:02:171:02:19

and I haven't bought a present.

1:02:191:02:21

So it'd be nice if you could say happy birthday to her.

1:02:211:02:23

Happy birthday. Lisa. Lisa. Thank you very much. Happy birthday, Lisa.

1:02:231:02:26

There you go - worth a present.

1:02:261:02:27

You haven't bought a present? No, not yet. Oh!

1:02:271:02:29

Well, you know, I've been busy.

1:02:291:02:30

I'll get Ken to do it later as well. OK, so we've got our meat.

1:02:301:02:33

We'll just cut it into three nice slices.

1:02:331:02:35

That's going to go down well.

1:02:351:02:36

There we go. Three slices. Beautifully pink.

1:02:361:02:39

Could cook it a little bit more if you want,

1:02:391:02:41

but it's nice like that. Beautiful.

1:02:411:02:42

And so there's a little bit of fat and a few sinews in there,

1:02:421:02:44

but don't worry about those. This will be heaven.

1:02:441:02:47

And then just put that on top of the squash.

1:02:471:02:49

And then your beautiful salsa verde.

1:02:491:02:50

That's MY beautiful salsa verde. YOUR beautiful salsa verde.

1:02:501:02:53

Thank you. OK. And then pop a bit of that on top.

1:02:531:02:55

That is a really simple, clean dish.

1:02:551:02:58

And that is my marinated rump of lamb

1:02:581:03:00

with roasted onion squash and spinach. Beautiful.

1:03:001:03:03

Right, OK, let's take it across. This is her heaven. Yeah.

1:03:091:03:13

Right, there you go. Some meat for you. I'm in heaven! Yeah? I am.

1:03:131:03:16

Good. How do you have your meat? Rare? Like this, yeah. Good.

1:03:161:03:20

That's just as well. Absolutely. Yeah, tuck in. However I can get it.

1:03:201:03:24

So do you... Is this on your menu at the moment?

1:03:241:03:26

Well, it's actually on our set menu at the moment, yeah.

1:03:261:03:29

I love sort of these kind of things. It's so simple to cook,

1:03:291:03:32

and I like to kind of do the really simple things on set menus.

1:03:321:03:35

Have you still got that enormous veal chop on your menu?

1:03:351:03:38

We still have the veal chop on the menu, yeah. I can't take that off.

1:03:381:03:41

People travel to come to have that one.

1:03:411:03:43

If you ever go to his restaurant, have the veal chop. Fabulous.

1:03:431:03:45

What do you make of the lamb? Good? Just fabulous. Yeah? Yeah. Gorgeous.

1:03:451:03:49

Tender? And really fresh, that salsa verde.

1:03:491:03:51

What about the salsa verde? I did that. Yeah, it was, very fresh.

1:03:511:03:53

Tender, perfect. Oh, heaven!

1:03:531:03:55

So there you go, and now you know.

1:04:001:04:02

It's all about the marinade with a rump of lamb.

1:04:021:04:04

And that, my friends, is my Sunday lunch sorted. Thanks so much, Theo.

1:04:041:04:09

Now for Omelette Challenge.

1:04:091:04:10

This time was the turn of one of the gorgeous Hemsley sisters,

1:04:101:04:13

and the legendary Wolfgang Puck.

1:04:131:04:16

But how do you choose between Melissa and Jasmine?

1:04:161:04:19

The team came up with an egg-cellent solution.

1:04:191:04:22

We've got to decide between you two, who'll cook the omelette.

1:04:221:04:25

Can't we just nominate? No, you can't nominate.

1:04:251:04:27

What we've got in here is we've got a special egg box

1:04:271:04:30

and, Ellie, you've got to then pick an egg. Oh, fancy eggs.

1:04:301:04:34

Three of these have got your name on it, Melissa,

1:04:341:04:37

three in there have got Jasmine's name in it.

1:04:371:04:39

What about my name? ALL: You're doing it anyway!

1:04:391:04:41

Can't get out of it.

1:04:411:04:43

So pick an egg. The production team have taken a week to do this.

1:04:431:04:47

Go on, then. Ready? Wallop.

1:04:471:04:49

Oh, here we go. Oh, complete with egg yolk.

1:04:491:04:51

Oh, God! Melissa! It's your turn, Melissa.

1:04:511:04:53

Right, over here, then. Right, good luck, Wolfgang.

1:04:531:04:56

So Wolfgang over here. All right. Everything you need.

1:04:561:04:58

Be careful, cos the pan handles are quite hot.

1:04:581:05:00

So you've got to create a three-egg omelette, cooked as fast as you can.

1:05:001:05:03

So let's put the clocks on the screens. Everything next to me.

1:05:031:05:06

Nobody's on the board as yet so there's nobody to beat. So...

1:05:061:05:09

as quick as you can. Three-egg omelette. Are you ready?

1:05:091:05:11

Easy. Put the butter down. Sorry! LAUGHTER

1:05:111:05:13

Three, two, one, go! He's got an egg!

1:05:131:05:16

Are you all right, Melissa?

1:05:171:05:19

Oh, no!

1:05:191:05:21

It's going well. Oh!

1:05:211:05:23

Oh, look, she's faster than me.

1:05:231:05:25

Got the butter in, chef? Butter in?

1:05:251:05:28

Is there salt and pepper?

1:05:281:05:30

You're doing well, Melissa. Am I? You're, all right. Yeah, good.

1:05:301:05:33

Now I have to wait!

1:05:391:05:41

He just plays catch up, you see?

1:05:411:05:43

Make sure it's a omelette. Oh, no.

1:05:441:05:46

All right, Melissa, I think we're both choking here. Scrambled eggs!

1:05:461:05:50

Choking! I need a little oil.

1:05:501:05:52

All right, now we're getting there. I'm done.

1:05:541:05:57

You got there?

1:05:581:05:59

JASMINE: Mel, get it on the plate. On the plate, Mel. Oh, the plate.

1:05:591:06:01

It stops when it hits the plate. Oh, sorry.

1:06:011:06:04

GONG

1:06:041:06:05

All right.

1:06:051:06:07

GONG Oh, we got it there.

1:06:071:06:09

All right. Look at that.

1:06:091:06:10

Right, well I'll go over here and taste this one.

1:06:101:06:13

What do you reckon? Yeah. I think it tastes really good. Really?!

1:06:131:06:17

JASMINE: It might be crunchy.

1:06:171:06:18

Oh, I'll put a little extra on it.

1:06:181:06:20

What's the burnt bits, you see?

1:06:201:06:21

There's no burnt bits, that's the pepper. Oh, is it?

1:06:211:06:24

That's brown butter.

1:06:241:06:26

All right. Oh, we've got caviar now! Wait a minute!

1:06:281:06:31

Thank you, chef. Wolfgang's does look fluffy. All right, hey.

1:06:331:06:36

That's going on the board, anyway, straight away. Right.

1:06:361:06:39

Wolfgang. Not bad, huh?

1:06:391:06:42

MOUTH FULL: A little slow.

1:06:421:06:43

I guess...

1:06:451:06:46

I guess, as Jasmine told me,

1:06:461:06:49

making an omelette is like making love, you have to go slow.

1:06:491:06:53

Anyway. We went slow. ELLIE: Jasmine!

1:06:531:06:55

Anyway. All right. You did it in 52 seconds.

1:06:551:06:57

He told me that! He told me that!

1:06:571:06:59

Unbelievable, this show. Right.

1:07:001:07:02

You did it in 52 seconds.

1:07:021:07:04

Right, where are you? Puts down here. Somewhere. OK.

1:07:041:07:07

I'll come back to get up on top. Yeah, right. Next.

1:07:071:07:11

Melissa.

1:07:121:07:14

You did it in...

1:07:141:07:16

I've got somebody talking to me. You did it in...

1:07:161:07:18

How quick? 33? No.

1:07:181:07:21

You did it... 45?

1:07:211:07:23

..in 49.04, which is pretty rubbish, to be honest.

1:07:231:07:27

Just on the board. It puts you down here as well.

1:07:271:07:30

Oh, no! There you go.

1:07:301:07:32

Little more practice required, I think, all round there, guys.

1:07:361:07:40

Now, I'm a big fan of this bloke's food.

1:07:401:07:42

It's the great Scot himself, Tom Kitchin.

1:07:421:07:44

Here is Tom's recipe for perfectly cooked grouse

1:07:441:07:47

with some delicious roasted autumn surge.

1:07:471:07:49

Good morning. So are you using marsh samphire or rock samphire?

1:07:491:07:52

What are you using? I'm just going for grouse. Yeah, exactly.

1:07:521:07:56

So, right, what are we doing with these? Really exciting, grouse.

1:07:561:07:58

Grouse, for me, is like one of the...

1:07:581:08:00

You know, it's a great time of year. So it's the young grouse.

1:08:001:08:03

We're going to roast it, we're going to do some roasted pumpkin,

1:08:031:08:06

Jerusalem artichoke, beetroot and a hazelnut dressing. Right.

1:08:061:08:10

So it's kind of a homely grouse, cooking at home. Sounds good to me.

1:08:101:08:12

You want me to do the veg first of all? Chopping, chef, yeah. Chopping.

1:08:121:08:16

That's usually my job. He's a good commis.

1:08:161:08:19

So tell us about grouse, then.

1:08:191:08:20

Cos obviously Glorious Twelfth is the start of the grouse season.

1:08:201:08:23

Yeah. But what should people be looking for with grouse?

1:08:231:08:25

Well, yeah, Glorious Twelfth is the start of the season

1:08:251:08:28

but, this year, the 12th was on a Sunday,

1:08:281:08:30

so we had to wait until the 13th,

1:08:301:08:32

which was the Glorious Thirteenth. Yeah.

1:08:321:08:34

I only use young grouse for roasting.

1:08:341:08:36

If you're going to use old grouse, I'm afraid you have to braise it

1:08:361:08:39

cos it'll be like eating a Wellington boot, really. Right.

1:08:391:08:41

So what I'm doing here is just removing the tendons.

1:08:411:08:43

I just tapped the foot there, and I can pull the tendons out the foot.

1:08:431:08:48

Now, you mentioned the young and the old. Is it size related, or what?

1:08:481:08:52

No, the tenderness of the young grouse is what we're looking for.

1:08:521:08:56

Right. And as they get...

1:08:561:08:58

Basically, I use it until about October. Yeah.

1:08:581:09:00

And then, after that, we've got all the other game as well,

1:09:001:09:03

the partridge, the pheasant, mallard, wild duck.

1:09:031:09:07

Really, it's a great time of year. So we season that all over.

1:09:071:09:11

And you get... You can buy these down the farmers' market.

1:09:111:09:13

A great time of year for you, not to be a game bird, though,

1:09:131:09:16

is it, really? No, you don't want to be a game bird cos it's a...

1:09:161:09:19

It's a tough time of year.

1:09:191:09:20

So you need to get down the farmers' market or a good butchers'. Yeah.

1:09:201:09:23

And they should be... You can get them at about ?7 a bird.

1:09:231:09:27

So it's a great Saturday supper kind of thing. Yeah. Now, are you...

1:09:271:09:31

One does one portion then, I take it? I think if you get...

1:09:311:09:34

If you don't get a full bird, you're getting ripped off a little bit.

1:09:341:09:38

So, yeah, one bird does a full portion.

1:09:381:09:41

Sounds good. OK? So... We're going to...

1:09:411:09:44

You're doing a little dice, and we're going to...

1:09:441:09:46

As we roast the grouse, we'll put some level diced vegetables

1:09:461:09:49

in there as well to roast.

1:09:491:09:52

Now celeriac, I love this stuff, but people sort of...

1:09:521:09:56

They don't know what to do with it, but...

1:09:561:09:58

No, it's a great vegetable. It is fantastic.

1:09:581:10:00

And this, the skin, as well.

1:10:001:10:02

Pierre Koffmann, if he saw you throwing that in the bin,

1:10:021:10:05

he'd be chasing you down the street. No, no, that's why I've done it,

1:10:051:10:07

you see? I've basted with the skin on as well.

1:10:071:10:09

Oh, good, good, good. Yeah.

1:10:091:10:11

And he's on next week. Next week, yeah.

1:10:111:10:14

So, I mean, celeriac, you can cook it in salt as well,

1:10:141:10:16

salt crust and that kind of stuff. Oh, lovely, yeah. It's lovely.

1:10:161:10:19

So there you can...

1:10:191:10:21

see it's getting that lovely golden colour.

1:10:211:10:24

What about game, Ching, in Chinese cooking?

1:10:241:10:26

I mean, pheasant you use a bit, but I suppose rabbit a bit.

1:10:261:10:29

Rabbit, yes. Rabbit is very popular in Sichuan.

1:10:291:10:33

And, actually, you know, I haven't cooked very much with game before.

1:10:341:10:39

But we love wild pigs as well, and we roast them, you know,

1:10:391:10:43

like suckling pig style on a big fire. That's very popular.

1:10:431:10:46

Definitely, yeah.

1:10:481:10:49

You know, in those days... Cos China's such a big country,

1:10:491:10:52

in those days, you'd eat whatever you could get.

1:10:521:10:55

Yeah. So...

1:10:551:10:57

Look at that. Right, lovely, so we've got the grouse.

1:10:571:10:59

So what we do is we took it on one breast, and then...

1:10:591:11:02

For four minutes. ..turn it over onto the other breast.

1:11:021:11:05

And then sit it up for two minutes.

1:11:051:11:07

So it should take about ten minutes in the oven. Yeah. So in it goes.

1:11:071:11:11

So you basically want to cook that for four minutes,

1:11:131:11:15

and then turn it over? Yeah, exactly. From breast to breast.

1:11:151:11:18

Now you're doing this with a little garnish of sort of...

1:11:181:11:21

Well, in-season root veg. Yeah. You've got this squash.

1:11:211:11:24

Because I always think, in the restaurant, we do it traditionally.

1:11:241:11:27

We make the sauce from the carcass.

1:11:271:11:29

We do the bread sauce, the game chips. But it is very restaurant-y.

1:11:291:11:33

And, at home recently, I tried to do that, and it was a nightmare.

1:11:331:11:36

I had pans everywhere, things were going off.

1:11:361:11:38

You know, the kids were screaming.

1:11:381:11:40

You know, so this one's good because it's all cooked in one pan.

1:11:401:11:44

Right. And it's full of flavour as well. What about game?

1:11:441:11:48

I don't suppose you get to cook that on MasterChef, do you? No. We did...

1:11:481:11:52

In fact, one of my...

1:11:521:11:54

I'm a big celeriac fan, and one of my favourite dishes...

1:11:541:11:57

One of my favourite sides I did was an apple and celeriac gratin.

1:11:571:12:01

It was absolutely fantastic.

1:12:011:12:03

That'll be on your restaurant menu next week as a special.

1:12:031:12:05

Yeah, that's right. Sounds good.

1:12:051:12:08

So, Tom, how old...

1:12:081:12:10

How young should the bird be for this dish, do you think?

1:12:101:12:13

Well, these would be hatched in the spring/summer,

1:12:131:12:16

so that's why it's really important, weather-wise.

1:12:161:12:18

If we get bad weather in the spring and early summer,

1:12:181:12:21

it kills the young chicks.

1:12:211:12:23

But that's how young the bird is, really. There we go.

1:12:231:12:26

So you've got these artichokes here. You're using Jerusalem artichokes.

1:12:261:12:29

Normally, these are quite sort of stubbier and fatter.

1:12:291:12:32

Yeah, these are the young ones.

1:12:321:12:34

Instead of blanching it, we just roast it all in the pan.

1:12:341:12:37

You just want a little bit of colour before it goes in.

1:12:371:12:41

As it roasts in the oven, the flavour doesn't escape anywhere.

1:12:411:12:44

So... Cobnuts, chef. Cobnuts.

1:12:441:12:47

We haven't got any cobnuts.

1:12:471:12:48

We haven't got any cobnuts. OK. Hazelnuts, chef. Hazelnuts?

1:12:481:12:51

Will they do? THEY LAUGH

1:12:511:12:53

Yeah, hazelnuts. That's what you've got. OK.

1:12:531:12:56

So we've got that on.

1:12:561:12:57

Right, so they go in the oven. What, lower temperature?

1:12:571:13:00

Yeah, lower temperature. They should take ten minutes.

1:13:001:13:02

So we've got some ready there. So we'll do that. There you go.

1:13:021:13:04

And we've got the shallot. We're going to make a wee dressing.

1:13:041:13:07

So if you crush those up, chef. Crush these, right.

1:13:071:13:09

And I'll make the dressing. No problem.

1:13:091:13:12

Now, you mentioned cobnuts, they're in season at the moment.

1:13:121:13:14

You could use these instead of hazelnuts.

1:13:141:13:16

Very, very tasty, cobnuts. In season.

1:13:161:13:18

And, again, when you go down the farmers' markets

1:13:181:13:20

at this time of year, you can really sense the whole seasonal thing.

1:13:201:13:24

You've got Jerusalem artichoke, pumpkin, grouse,

1:13:241:13:26

partridge, cobnuts. Yeah.

1:13:261:13:28

And that's what this dish is all about, seasonal cooking.

1:13:281:13:32

Right, so the sauce is slightly...

1:13:321:13:34

You want the pan back for that one, I take it?

1:13:341:13:36

You want that? Or do you want a fresh pan?

1:13:381:13:40

Yeah, we're just going to mix it, chef, actually. OK.

1:13:401:13:43

Cobnuts are delicious. They're like a sweeter version of hazelnuts.

1:13:431:13:47

They are nice. I use them as well as cobnuts.

1:13:471:13:49

In a crumble, they're really nice.

1:13:491:13:51

That's in the oven. Your veg is done.

1:13:511:13:53

If you put the chives in there,

1:13:531:13:54

the hazelnut oil and the little dash of sherry vinegar. Right.

1:13:541:13:59

And I'll just get... Now, this is...

1:13:591:14:00

I think one of the great things that people should be buying

1:14:001:14:03

at the moment is sherry vinegar. Sherry vinegar.

1:14:031:14:05

And hazelnut oil as well.

1:14:051:14:06

Because the Jerusalem artichokes are nutty anyway when you eat them,

1:14:061:14:09

so the hazelnut works really well.

1:14:091:14:12

Particularly this time of year.

1:14:121:14:13

You know, sherry vinegar with stews and stuff like that

1:14:131:14:16

that you want to cut through the fattiness and stuff. It's fantastic.

1:14:161:14:19

Love it. Right, so we'll take the veg out.

1:14:191:14:21

OK, so there we've got our roasted veg. Right, I'll turn that one over.

1:14:251:14:29

That's in there. Yep.

1:14:291:14:30

And these beetroots are the cooked ones.

1:14:321:14:35

Of course, if you're going to cook them yourself, you can cook them,

1:14:351:14:39

but they do take a long time to cook, but they're really delicious.

1:14:391:14:42

I'll just show you what that's like.

1:14:421:14:44

As you turn it over, it's nice and crisp on the bacon.

1:14:441:14:47

That's what you want.

1:14:471:14:48

Pop it back in the oven for about another six minutes. OK.

1:14:481:14:52

That's that one done.

1:14:521:14:54

Right. Adding my hazelnut. Now, you mentioned the traditional garnish.

1:14:541:14:58

Traditional garnish would be bread sauce... Bread sauce.

1:14:581:15:01

Game chips, which are...

1:15:011:15:02

Well, like crisps, really, but little...

1:15:021:15:04

Absolutely delicious, yeah. And, you know, wild mushrooms

1:15:041:15:07

that you have in season at this time of year as well. Yeah.

1:15:071:15:10

Right. Beetroot hands all over that.

1:15:101:15:13

Did you want this? No, Chef. No.

1:15:131:15:15

OK. Lemon? So, now we're going to debone the grouse. OK?

1:15:171:15:21

We've got a minute left.

1:15:221:15:24

OK, so there we've got our lovely grouse. Look at that.

1:15:261:15:30

Delicious.

1:15:301:15:32

Now, there's not much...

1:15:321:15:33

The grouse, the male bird and the female bird,

1:15:331:15:37

in pheasants, there's a big difference in size.

1:15:371:15:40

Really, grouse there's not. I think it's all quite similar, yeah. Yeah.

1:15:401:15:43

It's quite similar.

1:15:431:15:44

So, we are going to keep the bacon, I think,

1:15:441:15:46

cos the bacon really protects it.

1:15:461:15:50

It's the best bit. Yeah, look at that.

1:15:501:15:52

Just lovely...

1:15:521:15:53

The meat's so young and tender.

1:15:531:15:55

But the key is not to overcook it.

1:15:551:15:57

That's it, if you overcook it, you are in big trouble. Right.

1:15:571:16:01

Big trouble.

1:16:011:16:02

How popular is this on your menu?

1:16:031:16:05

Cos I know you are changing the menu for the season.

1:16:051:16:07

We change the menu all the time.

1:16:071:16:08

But without flogging it too much... This is from my new book.

1:16:081:16:11

LAUGHTER

1:16:111:16:13

This is the roasted autumn veg which is in the new book, Kitchen Suppers.

1:16:131:16:18

Grouse is on the menu. Good man.

1:16:181:16:19

I had to mention it. You've done it now.

1:16:191:16:22

So I've just mixed the two together which is the great thing about cookbooks.

1:16:221:16:26

You take a little bit and you add a different...

1:16:261:16:29

There you go. ..twist on it.

1:16:291:16:31

I'm just going to put the pumpkin...

1:16:311:16:33

..like that...

1:16:351:16:36

And of course, you'll be cooking again next month

1:16:381:16:40

at the Good Food Show in Glasgow.

1:16:401:16:43

I love the Good Food Show, it's just so much fun.

1:16:431:16:46

And hopefully, this year,

1:16:461:16:47

I'll manage to persuade you to come across to Edinburgh...

1:16:471:16:50

I will be there. ..and have dinner and maybe a grouse.

1:16:501:16:53

So, there, we've got all the lovely vegetables -

1:16:531:16:55

roasted vegetables -

1:16:551:16:56

the young grouse and then the lovely dressing on top, because it

1:16:561:17:01

is difficult to do a gravy, like you do in the restaurant, at home.

1:17:011:17:05

It is full of flavour, that. I've started to learn that.

1:17:051:17:08

And then garnish it with watercress which is again another

1:17:091:17:12

traditional garnish for grouse. So tell us what that is again?

1:17:121:17:16

Right, OK, so we've got the roasted young grouse, we've got roasted

1:17:161:17:19

Jerusalem artichoke, pumpkin, beetroot and a hazelnut dressing.

1:17:191:17:24

How fantastic is that? Thank you very much.

1:17:241:17:26

Well, it looks good. What does it taste like? We are getting hungry.

1:17:311:17:34

Looks amazing. Yeah, exactly.

1:17:341:17:36

What about grouse with you, Jamie? Have you tried this before?

1:17:361:17:39

I tend to not be a gamey kind of person. If it's too...

1:17:391:17:43

Well, if it's too gamey, if it's too, you know... Strong.

1:17:431:17:46

..well hung, then I... Can I use that expression? Is that OK?

1:17:461:17:49

It's the strength, it's basically the hanging

1:17:491:17:52

that produces the strength of the game.

1:17:521:17:54

I don't hang my grouse at all. I'm like you.

1:17:541:17:56

I love the young, fresh flavour and hopefully you'll get that today.

1:17:561:18:00

And instead of using... You mentioned the traditional gravy

1:18:001:18:03

which is quite heavy, this keeps it still quite light.

1:18:031:18:05

Yeah, so again, it's like, hopefully people can see this today and they can do this at home.

1:18:051:18:09

Yeah. You know, get down the farmers' markets.

1:18:091:18:11

That looks so fresh and vibrant.

1:18:111:18:13

It's not as strong as traditional game. No, not at all.

1:18:131:18:16

Wow, that is amazing.

1:18:161:18:17

Absolutely delicious.

1:18:221:18:24

I love the idea of swapping traditional gravy

1:18:241:18:27

for that hazelnut dressing.

1:18:271:18:28

Tom, time for another visit to your restaurant, I reckon.

1:18:281:18:32

When Sue Perkins came to the studio to face her food heaven or food hell,

1:18:321:18:35

she was championing chocolate, but would goat's cheese win first place?

1:18:351:18:40

Let's find out.

1:18:401:18:41

It's that time of the show to find out whether Sue will be facing food heaven or food hell.

1:18:411:18:44

Food heaven would be this mass of ingredients that you are

1:18:441:18:47

probably used to seeing anyway. It's home.

1:18:471:18:49

Hazelnuts. We've got some ground hazelnuts, here, into

1:18:491:18:52

a wonderful cake, with a chocolate cake as well, coffee meringue.

1:18:521:18:55

Alternatively, it could be the dreaded food hell over here,

1:18:551:18:58

a pile of goat's cheese transformed into a nice little salad.

1:18:581:19:01

It was down to these two really, it was 2-1 to people at home.

1:19:011:19:05

Francesco... His fault.

1:19:051:19:07

..liked goat's cheese.

1:19:071:19:09

That would put it level.

1:19:091:19:10

What can I do? What can I do? It was Marcus.

1:19:121:19:14

Thankfully... I don't have a sweet tooth.

1:19:141:19:16

You've got your food heaven because of Marcus, you see.

1:19:161:19:19

Move this out the way. What we are going to do now is make

1:19:191:19:21

a nice little sponge with this... Great.

1:19:211:19:24

..which you probably made plenty of sponges.

1:19:241:19:26

But we are going to do this one slightly differently.

1:19:261:19:28

We're going to make it with a meringue and a sabayon base,

1:19:281:19:32

cos whenever you add hazelnuts to anything... It weighs it down.

1:19:321:19:36

..it weighs it down, yeah, exactly. So we are going to whip up this.

1:19:361:19:39

If you can then mix me the double cream, small amount of double cream.

1:19:391:19:42

That works for me. That is why it's food heaven.

1:19:421:19:45

The icing sugar... And the hazelnut... ..and the hazelnut...

1:19:451:19:49

We've got this paste, if you make sure you get all of it out of it

1:19:491:19:52

and then put it in there.

1:19:521:19:54

If you can crack me the eggs, please, Marcus, in there,

1:19:541:19:56

that'd be great.

1:19:561:19:57

Thank you very much. Then I'm going to start by whipping this up.

1:19:571:20:00

That's brandy in there. Very good. Happy with that? Yeah.

1:20:001:20:03

Have you tried it? Yeah. All right.

1:20:031:20:05

Can you put me the butter in here? Yeah.

1:20:051:20:09

And the reason why we put butter in a cake is to keep it nice and moist,

1:20:091:20:12

you see, cos the idea being, the hazelnuts will dry it out,

1:20:121:20:16

and that helps it, but the butter will keep it nice and moist.

1:20:161:20:18

Why are you cooking the butter first, as opposed to blending it?

1:20:181:20:21

We just melt it. OK. This is two types of sponges.

1:20:211:20:24

This is, I think, the lighter one. Like an Italian?

1:20:241:20:27

Yeah, that is in the lighter one, really.

1:20:271:20:29

So we whisk this up and then, in here,

1:20:311:20:33

I've got my icing sugar.

1:20:331:20:36

That's going to go in and I use icing sugar

1:20:361:20:39

instead of caster sugar, again, to make it a little bit lighter.

1:20:391:20:43

Going to throw that in,

1:20:431:20:44

in we go with the icing sugar in the meringue here.

1:20:441:20:46

Whisk this up.

1:20:461:20:47

Not too much because the air is going to come out

1:20:491:20:52

of this mixture here. Yeah. And then all we do...

1:20:521:20:56

Egg yolks... See, these whole eggs... Yeah.

1:20:561:20:58

In we go with the flour, in we go with the hazelnuts.

1:20:581:21:01

Look at that.

1:21:011:21:02

In we go with the butter, like that, and then if I get a...

1:21:021:21:06

If you can bring me over the tin, please, Marcus, that would be great.

1:21:061:21:10

Thank you. And then all we do is we throw this lot in.

1:21:101:21:13

I'm sure you've seen this a hundred times before but you've got

1:21:131:21:16

to get this mixture in the oven as quick as possible.

1:21:161:21:19

How come it takes you like a couple of minutes? We do two whole days

1:21:191:21:22

in a tent with somebody doing this and then they drop it on the floor.

1:21:221:21:25

That's what always happens.

1:21:251:21:27

I've been a pastry chef for many, many years. That's the thing.

1:21:271:21:30

So, literally, we just pour this mixture in but the key to it

1:21:301:21:33

is speed, I always think.

1:21:331:21:35

Cos you need to get that in the oven, which Marcus is going to do,

1:21:361:21:38

straight in the oven, please, mate.

1:21:381:21:40

It goes in the oven for about 20 minutes.

1:21:401:21:42

And then, over here, we've got our sponges.

1:21:421:21:46

I've got a chocolate one, which I've made,

1:21:461:21:49

in a similar sort of way, and we've got our hazelnut on, which we made,

1:21:491:21:53

like that.

1:21:531:21:55

Now, it will rise up and collapse but when you see it,

1:21:551:21:59

it's very, very delicate, when you slice it

1:21:591:22:02

and it's fantastic with this.

1:22:021:22:04

Smells really good. Hopefully, you're going to like it.

1:22:041:22:06

I am going to like it. Hopefully, we've got our cream nearly ready.

1:22:061:22:10

Nearly there. And could you chuck us the cake stand, Marcus, as well?

1:22:101:22:12

That'd be great. Yeah.

1:22:121:22:14

We bring this across.

1:22:141:22:15

There we go.

1:22:161:22:17

And then we can then thinly slice this

1:22:171:22:19

so if we've got a serrated knife anywhere... There you go.

1:22:191:22:23

We can start off with this one first, this is the chocolate one.

1:22:231:22:25

Keep your fingers out of the way, obviously. It's easy...

1:22:251:22:29

Just... What's wrong with it? It's good. No, it's perfect.

1:22:291:22:32

It's perfect. You're checking the crumb structure?

1:22:321:22:34

Yeah, I am, just... Just the density there of crumb. It's good.

1:22:341:22:39

So, this is like an Opera cake? Similar, yeah.

1:22:391:22:41

And then we put this on it.

1:22:411:22:43

The quick tip next time you are doing the series,

1:22:431:22:46

anyone that is about to join the new series of the Bake Off,

1:22:461:22:51

I always find that Mary Berry likes a brandy.

1:22:511:22:54

Mary Berry likes to start early with the brandy.

1:22:541:22:57

Exactly! She really does. I wasn't going to say that!

1:22:571:23:01

She... Just constantly topping up with Mary, constantly topping up.

1:23:011:23:04

The flask that she's got with her... Her blood type is actually vodka.

1:23:041:23:08

I'm jesting. I love Mary, as does the nation. She is an absolute star.

1:23:081:23:13

What's not to love?

1:23:131:23:14

Hopefully, she'll be watching this and checking to see

1:23:141:23:16

to see if I'm doing it right.

1:23:161:23:17

What people don't know is that Paul is actually about five foot tall

1:23:171:23:20

and wears a Cuban heel. He is the Tom Cruise of...

1:23:201:23:23

Well, you know, you are friends with Paul. Yeah. He is a delightful man.

1:23:231:23:26

He is. He's like Thumbelina.

1:23:261:23:28

Thumbelina! The Thumbelina of the cake world.

1:23:281:23:31

We're going to slice this. He's going to kill me. He is.

1:23:311:23:34

He's actually going to attack. He is. Yeah.

1:23:341:23:37

Look at that. You could read a newspaper through that.

1:23:371:23:40

That's the idea. I don't know why you'd want to.

1:23:401:23:42

And then we layer this up with more...

1:23:421:23:44

Mary, if you are watching... SUE LAUGHS

1:23:441:23:46

There you go. And a bit more of this.

1:23:461:23:48

This is hazelnut cream.

1:23:481:23:50

This is the hazelnut puree we've got on here with icing sugar.

1:23:501:23:54

You've got to try this. It's fantastic.

1:23:541:23:55

The secret of this is don't make it too sweet. So nice.

1:23:551:23:59

Don't make it too sweet.

1:23:591:24:01

We were talking earlier about your programme and we never

1:24:011:24:03

mentioned the name of it.

1:24:031:24:05

Cos you were too busy taking the mick out of my bandana.

1:24:051:24:08

It was a loving pastiche, it was not taking the mick.

1:24:081:24:10

I've actually managed to burn my arm as well. Lightly toast the sleeve.

1:24:101:24:15

It's called Heading Out and it's on next Tuesday, Tuesday week.

1:24:151:24:18

Tuesday week. Yeah. We'll be watching it. So a little bit more...

1:24:181:24:21

There will be a test afterwards. ..and a bit more of this.

1:24:211:24:25

Now, in the fridge, guys, you've got some...

1:24:251:24:27

A bowl of mixture in the fridge... Let's see.

1:24:271:24:30

If you can grab us that...

1:24:301:24:32

And then what we do, is you just...

1:24:321:24:33

The secret... BOWL CLANGS

1:24:331:24:35

You enjoying that? That's just whipped cream, icing sugar.

1:24:351:24:38

This is essentially what I do for ten weeks at the Bake Off.

1:24:381:24:41

I just sit there with a massive mixing bowl and just eat. Right.

1:24:411:24:44

Lift that over. Now, don't worry about this. Icing sugar.

1:24:471:24:51

See, at this stage, all the audience will go...

1:24:511:24:53

HE GASPS Don't worry, cos then we take this.

1:24:531:24:55

This is Italian meringue and you can let this go cold if you want.

1:24:551:25:00

This is Italian meringue and butter... The best, of course.

1:25:001:25:03

..whisked into it.

1:25:031:25:04

So do you serve this with a gastric band? This particular..?

1:25:041:25:07

This needs a government health warning, this one. I tell you that.

1:25:071:25:11

It is. If you want to ice it, you see...

1:25:111:25:15

What, another layer?

1:25:151:25:16

You can do if you want but I kind of...

1:25:161:25:18

I always think, on your show,

1:25:181:25:20

you would just go around the edge and make it all fancy.

1:25:201:25:22

This is the sort of stuff people want to do at home and you

1:25:221:25:25

want to just literally just... Look at that.

1:25:251:25:28

Just pour it over the edge.

1:25:281:25:30

like this.

1:25:301:25:32

Mmmm. I'm just actually speechless.

1:25:321:25:34

Have you got some grated chocolate, guys? Have we got any? Oh, look.

1:25:341:25:37

We'll use a bit of this. We can do some if you want? No, no. Oh.

1:25:371:25:41

The secret of this is this -

1:25:411:25:42

Meringues...

1:25:441:25:45

It's very indulgent, isn't it? Look at that. ..and marshmallow.

1:25:491:25:51

What pattern are you going for?

1:25:511:25:53

I'm not, it's just random, this is random. Chaos theory.

1:25:531:25:56

It's just random. That's one too many now.

1:25:561:25:58

THEY LAUGH

1:25:581:26:00

Less is more, less is more. I've had to get it out. You've ruined it now.

1:26:001:26:03

I've had to delve... THEY LAUGH

1:26:031:26:05

..into the lake of butter. And we just got that in there.

1:26:051:26:09

I'm just on that sugar high now. Really coming up.

1:26:091:26:11

Our producer is saying,

1:26:111:26:13

you love your desserts so how do you stay so slim?

1:26:131:26:16

Well, basically,

1:26:161:26:17

I eat during Bake Off, put on 3st

1:26:171:26:19

and then don't eat for the rest of the year.

1:26:191:26:21

It's like the Blue Peter tortoise,

1:26:211:26:23

I just paint my name in Tippex on the back and go into hibernation.

1:26:231:26:26

Right, and then... Little toadstools!

1:26:261:26:28

Watch this.

1:26:281:26:30

Now watch this. What's going to happen now?

1:26:301:26:32

Watch this. I'm watching. Watch, watch. Literally, I'm watching.

1:26:321:26:36

Watch. It's very oozy, isn't it?

1:26:361:26:38

This is how it should be. Yeah.

1:26:381:26:40

Boozy. Boozy and oozy.

1:26:411:26:43

Ooh! Look at that.

1:26:441:26:47

Ooh, nice.

1:26:471:26:49

If you want to be a bit fancy...

1:26:491:26:52

THEY LAUGH Sprinkles!

1:26:521:26:54

A bit of that on the top.

1:26:541:26:56

That is very tempting. Can I have a mushroom? You can have a mushroom.

1:26:571:27:01

You can have two, there you go. Right.

1:27:011:27:03

Tell us what do you think of that, cos it's the way you make this cake.

1:27:031:27:06

You could, of course, leave the icing to go cold and spend a lot

1:27:061:27:08

more time icing it and that kind of stuff but I actually like it...

1:27:081:27:11

It's one of those cakes that you just want to eat and go back in

1:27:111:27:13

and have it again. It's very nice.

1:27:131:27:16

It's really nice. Well, the key to this is...

1:27:161:27:18

It is a twist on the Opera, obviously, but you would put

1:27:181:27:21

a chocolate topping over the top of that.

1:27:211:27:23

I think with that coating and stuff like that, it's wonderful.

1:27:231:27:26

I love it.

1:27:261:27:28

Really good. Is it a good bake? It's the...

1:27:281:27:30

Ask Mary and Paul, I'll eat it, it's delicious. Really good.

1:27:301:27:34

Dive in, guys. I'm an eater, not a tester.

1:27:341:27:37

It's Italian meringue, it's whipped egg whites, it's sugar, water.

1:27:381:27:42

The sugar and water, you bring to the boil,

1:27:421:27:44

add on to the whipped egg whites.

1:27:441:27:45

You add coffee essence. Don't add coffee, ie an espresso,

1:27:451:27:49

because it will soften the mixture too much.

1:27:491:27:51

As I've done there.

1:27:511:27:53

And then we've got some butter which we fold into it but the colder

1:27:531:27:55

you leave it, the better it is and the firmer the icing will go.

1:27:551:27:59

I feel we might have to ask Mary and Paul what they think.

1:28:031:28:06

Was it a really good bake? Would James make it through? I'd say so.

1:28:061:28:10

Though, I don't think anybody should be driving after eating that.

1:28:101:28:14

Well, I'm afraid that's all we've got time for today on today's show.

1:28:141:28:17

I hope you've enjoyed taking a look back at some of the delicious

1:28:171:28:20

recipes from the Saturday Kitchen archive.

1:28:201:28:22

Hopefully, you've been inspired to get cooking.

1:28:221:28:25

I for one have earmarked a few dishes I'll be rustling up at home.

1:28:251:28:29

So, have a fantastic week and I'll see you again very soon. Bye.

1:28:291:28:33

We glance at blurred patio doors

1:28:371:28:39

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