02/07/2017 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites


02/07/2017

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Transcript


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Good morning, I'm Matt Tebbutt, and I've some outstanding dishes

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to kick-start your Sunday morning.

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So please sit back and enjoy today's line-up

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of brilliant Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

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Welcome to the show.

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Now, don't go anywhere, because I have a whole heap of fantastic chefs

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cooking up brilliant food and some great guests who are eager to eat.

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Coming up on the show today...

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James Martin cooks rhubarb chutney with mackerel and watercress

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for Dexter Fletcher.

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Silvena Rowe cooks pork belly with a difference.

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The pork belly is slow-roasted

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and coated in a sticky blueberry and chilli glaze,

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and it's served up with whipped feta, yoghurt and cumin salad.

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The amazing Ashley Palmer-Watts is here with a stunning scallop dish.

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He makes a vegetable stock and adds clams and samphire

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and creates a broth.

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He then pan-fries scallops and plates it all up with pickled dulse.

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And they're celebrating James' 40th birthday in

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the omelette challenge today,

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and there's not two but three chefs battling it out,

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so keep watching to see how it works out.

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Then it's over to Paul Rankin, who's celebrating British rose veal.

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Broad beans and Romaine lettuce are cooked in foaming butter

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and are served with pan-fried veal chops and Jersey Royal potatoes.

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And finally, Patsy Palmer faces her food heaven or her food hell.

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Did she get her food heaven - strawberry mille-feuille

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with strawberry sauce -

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or her food hell - smoked salmon and spinach tart

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with watercress pesto and salad?

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You can find out what she got at the end of the show.

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But first, it's over to Oliver Rowe

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who's doing his best to keep it local.

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-Oliver.

-Hello.

-Nice to meet you.

-Nice to meet you, James.

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So why do this?

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Why don't you open it in Hampshire or somewhere like that,

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where you can find stuff?

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Because I'm from London, I'm a Londoner and very proud of it.

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So, tell us what you're cooking.

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Yeah, I'm going to do a pan-roast chicken -

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the chicken's from Waltham Abbey -

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with a creme fraiche spaetzle - German pasta type thing.

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-And a cabbage, dill, lemon, garlic salad.

-Lovely.

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-So, first things first...

-Can you get the chicken?

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-That's the first thing.

-Start getting my...

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Right, so tell us a little bit about the marinade to go on this chicken.

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-The marinade is... I'm sneakily getting that in there.

-Right.

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And the marinade for the chicken was lemon zest, lemon thyme,

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garlic and some white wine.

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-White wine in there as well?

-White wine in there, yeah.

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-And just leave it, what, overnight?

-Yeah, if you can.

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At least an hour or so. I'm going to season that.

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Now, the chicken, before you put that in the pan,

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that's quite an unusual cut because it's all one piece.

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You take the two sides of the chicken off

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and take out the leg bone.

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It's a little tricky the first time,

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but once you've done it a few times, it's not too hard.

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You can get your butcher to do that?

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-Yeah, you can get the butcher to do it.

-OK, lovely.

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So that's fine. So, really nice hot pan.

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I suppose the advantage of that is white and dark meat all in together.

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Exactly. I like... I like both.

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And as John was mentioning when he was cooking the fish,

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-chicken doesn't take nearly as long as you think.

-Yeah.

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So, I'm just getting the colour on the skin there.

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That'll take a few minutes.

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In the meantime, I'm going to make my spaetzle, which is flour, eggs,

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celery seed, and I'll whizz them up in here.

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Tell us where this originates from.

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Spaetzle's from the deep south, deep German south.

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It's a kind of real traditional dish, and I love it.

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Oopsie, flicking my flour...

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And it's the equivalent to the Italian pasta, really, I suppose?

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-You can help me get the eggs in, if you want.

-Yeah.

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-How many do we want?

-All of them.

-All of them?!

-There's seven, yeah.

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It's basically, flour and egg,

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a pinch of salt and those seeds in there.

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Right. And we've used plain flour in there, have we?

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-Yeah.

-Lovely.

-Exactly. We get our flour from...

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It's grown in Dartford and Barnet, milled in Ponders End.

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Now, this interests me.

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All these ingredients from all these places - what's been

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the most interesting ingredient you've found on your travels?

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-I like the flour. I think the flour's pretty good.

-Yeah?

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-But the fish was pretty exciting, going on the Thames.

-Lovely.

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-So you're making this...

-You don't want to whizz it too long.

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-Just blend it.

-Because the gluten...

-Yeah.

-OK.

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-It'll strengthen it and it'll be no good?

-Yeah.

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As you can see, it's quite wet.

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It's really a batter as opposed to a pasta, a paste.

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OK. So, the chicken, you're just sealing that?

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I'm just sealing it and getting some nice colour on that.

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I mean, that's looking pretty nice, actually.

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I'm going to pop that in a really hot oven.

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That's 200? About 210, something like that? Yeah, about that.

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-A bit more.

-Straight in there. Lovely.

-Right.

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That's the spaetzle.

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I actually made some earlier cos I didn't want to get myself all messy.

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-Ah, right.

-This is just a piping bag.

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-This is just a basic mixture in a piping bag.

-In a piping bag.

-Lovely.

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And you'll see... Give that a little stir.

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Now I can lose this.

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So can I be doing something with this cabbage

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while you're doing that?

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Yeah, if you could just...

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So, we've got, basically, dill, lemon, garlic, the cabbage.

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Dress that with seasoning, some of this lovely rapeseed oil.

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-Rapeseed oil?

-Yeah.

-Of course, this is...

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Cos the ingredients, the bulk of your ingredients,

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like chicken and veg and stuff like that, not a problem.

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When you start talking about your oils and your salt.

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Literally, you were on about everything.

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Yeah, everything. Everything we can. Everything we can.

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Obviously not olive oil.

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-The salt is from Maldon, so it's a little way out.

-Essex, yeah?

-Essex.

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But it's amazing salt. It's the best salt in the world, really.

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Spices, we couldn't get.

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I went to Kew Garden to try and get the spices,

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-and that was a no-go.

-No chance!

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Yeah, you have to have to have it certified for botanical research

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to sort of get anything...

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Explain to us what you're doing.

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I'm just drizzling this straight into the water there.

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Cos this conventionally would be done in a pan

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-with, like, a colander and they would squeeze it in.

-Yeah, exactly.

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And obviously, it drips through in small bits.

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I'm just going to wash my hands.

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So I'm just going to put raw cabbage, sliced up...

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-Make sure you season it up really nicely.

-Sorry, yeah.

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And plenty of oil.

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-Plenty of oil?

-Dill.

-Dill!

-Lemon.

-All right.

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-Crush the garlic. Go, go, go!

-All right, I'm going! I'm going!

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-I'm going.

-Bit slow, isn't he?

-Yeah, I know.

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I tell you what, he hangs around, doesn't he?

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-Thank you very much!

-It's all right. Any time.

-There you go.

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-So, have you ever cooked spaetzle, John?

-Me?

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Yeah, as a sort of young kid training in Australia,

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we had... Our tutors were Swiss,

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and they taught us how to make proper spaetzle.

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We had spaetzle pans,

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which are like a flat colander thing with holes in it,

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and you pour the batter into it,

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and then you scrape it backwards and forwards.

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It drops into the water like little teardrops.

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Then you take them out and then you pan fry them in butter.

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-Delicious.

-Lovely.

-Lovely.

-Looking forward to...

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-Nicer than my kind of cheating piping bag.

-I like your idea.

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-I think it's very clever.

-They're done. That's very quick.

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-Literally only a couple of minutes!

-I'm draining them now.

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Yeah, no messing around.

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So, how long do you cook the chicken in there?

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What, 10 minutes, something like that?

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Yeah, if it's a really lovely hot oven.

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But in sealing the skin, you've actually started

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cooking it down a bit... cooking it off a bit already.

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But I don't think we're going to quite have time to cook it properly,

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so I've got one that I cooked earlier.

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What are we doing with this? You would fry this off?

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I would fry it off, but again, I haven't quite got time to do that,

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so I'm just going to sploosh a bit of my sauce on it.

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Explain to us what's in that sauce, because that...

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What have you got in there?

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First of all, we've got some shallots, diced them,

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reduced them with white wine, and then I just...

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threw in a whole load of creme fraiche.

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-Often creme fraiche splits with me.

-Yeah, I know.

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Well, I don't seem to be having that problem,

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so either it's my creme fraiche...

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We make our own creme fraiche.

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Yeah, well, that's probably the reason why...

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You can get... If you don't get really, really, really top,

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it can...yeah, split.

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Just make sure it's really top-quality creme fraiche,

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-or make it yourself - there you go.

-There we go.

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See, that's my fault - I've been buying the cheap stuff, you see.

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Once a Yorkshireman, always a Yorkshireman, you see?

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LAUGHTER

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You've got to save money somehow, haven't you, really?

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-Right.

-Right, so that's that. How's the cabbage salad...?

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I'm doing it, I'm doing it, I'm doing it. I'm doing it.

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-It's getting there.

-I want that to...

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So I've just got a little bit of the oil in here, lemon juice,

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the cabbage...

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-That looks gorgeous.

-Seasoning!

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-You can do that a little bit ahead.

-Right...

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What's my garlic...?

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-Yeah, I put some garlic in it.

-OK, fine.

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-We're having a tiff.

-There you go.

-You can do that a little bit ahead.

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Yeah, we'll do it ahead next time you're on, I think -

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I'm not doing it!

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-Right, so a little bit of lemon juice.

-Whingeing!

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-OK.

-Lovely.

-There's a plate.

-I'm getting the plate, chef.

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-I'm taking the plate.

-Could you keep me a little piece of dill aside?

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-No, I haven't got dill. I'll get dill.

-There you go.

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There we go. Right. That's that. That's that.

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Right, now...

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What's happening now? Look at that.

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I want, on this plate, a little bit of the...

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Do you know what?

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Hands - use your hands.

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There you are.

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So, anyway, right, you've got it...

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How are you going to carve this?

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I'm going to carve a little bit of white meat,

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a little bit of brown meat cos I like both,

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and that's the whole joy of this cut of chicken.

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If people were making this at home, this spaetzle, you could

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keep it in the fridge, couldn't you, once it's cooked?

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You can. You can either keep them...

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Drain them, toss them in a little bit of oil

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and then...keep them in the fridge.

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Or you can actually keep them in water.

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-Really, just sit it in the water in a tray?

-Yeah.

-Lovely.

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Right, how are we going to serve this?

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-See, this is a nice big fat...

-Yeah?

-..fat one.

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-There's probably two people in there.

-Two portions?!

-Yeah.

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Look at that. That is just...

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You can tell you're down south now, can't you?

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I tell you what, that'd be a starter where I come from!

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LAUGHTER They'd be like, "What's this?"

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That fits in your sandwich this afternoon.

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-With your cereal!

-Exactly!

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Right, and some of the sauce.

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No herbs. Just literally shallot, a bit of white wine...

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-That's your lot.

-Lovely.

-Sorry.

-It looks great.

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A bit of extra sauce on there.

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I would actually reduce that a little bit more in general.

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-Look at that.

-And then... Can we put that on?

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Then you can put that on. Go on, then.

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-Have I got time?

-There you go.

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And look at that, all that within the M25.

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Remind us what that is again.

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That is pan-roast chicken with creme fraiche spaetzle

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and cabbage, dill and lemon salad.

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Lovely.

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Right. Well, I know you guys are chatting away over here cos...

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You'd be a mess at cooking this - is that what you said?

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-I would be a mess.

-There you go. Have a seat. Now, dive in!

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-You've all been wanting to taste this, all chatting away.

-OK.

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-OK, I'm going to try this.

-Can I try some?

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That's the part that everyone wants!

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Didn't get a taste of the halibut.

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-How's that cabbage?

-The spaetzle's great.

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Cabbage is just the best part of it!

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Have you tasted that cabbage?

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The cabbage? I made it! It's perfect, isn't it?

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-LAUGHTER

-It's funny how people sort of go...

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ALL SPEAK OVER EACH OTHER

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-Without the...

-It's fantastic.

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But I prefer it just with a lemon dressing. Do you know what I mean?

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I think it's lighter, More summer-y.

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So fast, everything!

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It's not French, but would the wife approve?

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-I'm sure, yeah.

-Delicious.

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Those Austrian noodles look really good and they're really

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simple to make, so why not give them a go this weekend?

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Now, coming up, James makes rhubarb chutney

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with mackerel and watercress for Dexter Fletcher,

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but first, it's over to Rick Stein who's creeping around in

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a dark shed in the Yorkshire Dales.

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Well, I've come here to the Yorkshire Dales

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cos there's something here that really interests me.

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I love ewe's milk cheese - Roquefort in particular.

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But I believe I'm right in saying that North Yorkshire

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is the only place where the indigenous cheese was ewe's milk.

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The reason for that's quite simple,

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that when William the Conqueror conquered England in 1066

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and gradually moved north,

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the soldiers that came up here were, well, to put it quite mildly,

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appalled by the cuisine.

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And they moaned to William the Conqueror

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and said, "We've got to have something decent to eat."

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So he sent one of his abbots over here with a lot of monks,

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and they started making the local cheese from back in Normandy,

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which was ewe's milk.

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But what's so interesting is that the local cheesemakers

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are now making ewe's milk cheese again -

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people like Mrs Bell with her blue cheese.

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One of the most important things to small local producers

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is knowing how to market your product.

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There are no flies on Mrs Bell -

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or her cheeses, for that matter!

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Because when I arrived, they were busy starting a campaign

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to tell the world about her soft, creamy ewe's milk cheese.

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I get a lot of cheeses sent to me, but once in a while,

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one really grabs you, and this one did.

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When I saw the wrapper, it said "Mrs Bell's Blue" on it.

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Well, that was intriguing for a start.

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And then I tasted the cheese and, you know,

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I suppose you get the old tingle on the back of the neck,

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you just think this is just fantastic,

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and I had to come up here.

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I had this sort of image like Mrs Kirkham, Mrs Bell

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and the little sort of nice cottage industry.

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And I got here and, well, it's not like that at all!

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-And there should be a scene... How about that?

-That's nice.

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So what does cheese-making mean to you?

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Why does it matter to you so much? It obviously does.

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I'm just very passionate about the fact that in Britain

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we've got so many wonderful cheeses.

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And in the last ten years, the artisan cheese-making in Britain

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-is really outstripping the French.

-Great!

-We can compete.

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We have some friends that live in the Haute-Savoie,

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and they take our cheeses over,

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and all of their friends in the valleys say,

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"Too good to be made in Britain! Too good to be made in Britain!"

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I'm in Yorkshire, near Wakefield.

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You know, I'm fascinated by signs

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that sing the praises of a particular community.

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In this case, rhubarb, because the village of Carlton lies at

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the very centre of the country's rhubarb production.

0:13:450:13:48

The word rhubarb sounds so comical.

0:13:480:13:50

It's like something from The Goon Show.

0:13:500:13:53

But the Oldroyd family take this fruit - or is it a vegetable? -

0:13:530:13:57

very seriously indeed.

0:13:570:13:59

This particular variety of rhubarb is called Timperley Early,

0:14:030:14:07

and like the name rhubarb, it's got such a British feel to it.

0:14:070:14:12

And I just love rhubarb.

0:14:120:14:13

I just think my favourite pudding of all time is rhubarb crumble,

0:14:130:14:18

so I just had to come here to see where it's grown.

0:14:180:14:21

-Now the secret world.

-Oh, wow!

0:14:240:14:27

God, it looks really weird.

0:14:270:14:28

It's like a sort of ghostly host of rhubarb. They're so pale.

0:14:280:14:34

So, Janet, why did this forcing of rhubarb happen

0:14:340:14:36

sort of only here, in this part of Yorkshire?

0:14:360:14:39

It came to Yorkshire, 1877,

0:14:390:14:42

and it became known as the rhubarb triangle, the centre of the world.

0:14:420:14:46

-Like the opium triangle!

-THEY CHUCKLE

0:14:460:14:49

And you get lost here as you get absorbed into the sheds.

0:14:490:14:53

But it was immensely important, it was a major industry at its time.

0:14:530:14:58

Links, everything fit together perfectly.

0:14:580:15:00

You've got the soil that's perfect for rhubarb production,

0:15:000:15:04

the links with the coal industry

0:15:040:15:06

obviously gave us the power to heat the sheds,

0:15:060:15:09

and the shoddy, which is a by-product of the woollen industry,

0:15:090:15:16

the carding and combing process.

0:15:160:15:19

You get woollen debris being taken out,

0:15:190:15:22

and as the wool decays, it releases high amounts of nitrogen.

0:15:220:15:27

The rhubarb loves nitrogen,

0:15:270:15:29

and it maintains this energy store within the root.

0:15:290:15:34

I mean, you just speak so wonderfully,

0:15:340:15:35

passionately about rhubarb.

0:15:350:15:37

Why does it mean so much to you?

0:15:370:15:39

It's been immensely important to our family, obviously.

0:15:390:15:42

I've grown up with the rhubarb

0:15:420:15:44

and it's something, I think, that gets in your blood.

0:15:440:15:47

Is it true you can hear it growing?

0:15:470:15:49

Yes, when they're triggered into growth

0:15:490:15:51

and the first leaf bursts out of that bud for the first time,

0:15:510:15:55

it then can grow an inch a day,

0:15:550:15:58

so you hear the creaking of the sticks as they grow.

0:15:580:16:02

So put that in a dark, candle-lit environment,

0:16:020:16:06

and it's an eerie secret world of what's happening here.

0:16:060:16:11

Rhubarb crumble - it's about as British as you can get, actually.

0:16:130:16:17

Call me old-fashioned, call me what you like,

0:16:170:16:19

but I like rhubarb crumble in the winter

0:16:190:16:22

with a beef or a roast duck,

0:16:220:16:24

and I like gooseberry fool in the summer

0:16:240:16:26

after the poached salmon and the mayonnaise.

0:16:260:16:28

But actually, I find something like rhubarb crumble is

0:16:280:16:32

a real test of a good cook,

0:16:320:16:33

because we all know what rhubarb crumble should taste like,

0:16:330:16:37

and therefore the little nuances of what you do

0:16:370:16:40

with your rhubarb crumble are so important.

0:16:400:16:42

If you're making, like, a sort of Thai stir-fry,

0:16:420:16:45

nobody knows what to judge it by.

0:16:450:16:47

But they certainly do with rhubarb crumble.

0:16:470:16:49

So I really take care when I'm making mine.

0:16:490:16:52

First of all, you need to add some sugar -

0:16:520:16:55

just enough so it's moreishly, but not cloyingly tart.

0:16:550:16:58

Then a tablespoon or so of flour.

0:16:580:17:01

This makes the liquid a little bit viscous, which is very pleasing.

0:17:010:17:04

The crumble topping - you start by making shortcrust pastry,

0:17:040:17:08

but there's a lot more butter in it,

0:17:080:17:10

so it always ends a little bit more lumpy

0:17:100:17:13

than the granular texture of shortcrust.

0:17:130:17:16

Then sugar - it needs to be quite sweet.

0:17:160:17:19

Into the pie dish goes the rhubarb, flour and sugar,

0:17:190:17:22

and then the topping.

0:17:220:17:24

I find the easiest way to distribute the topping is with your fingers,

0:17:240:17:28

then just give it a little shake like that

0:17:280:17:30

and into a hot oven for about 45 minutes.

0:17:300:17:33

What I really like about a good crumble is

0:17:340:17:37

the way that as it crisps up at the top,

0:17:370:17:40

it sort of splits and you can see the sort of rhubarb

0:17:400:17:42

welling up from underneath,

0:17:420:17:44

and you've got that lovely smell of butter and cooked flour

0:17:440:17:47

and the slightly sour smell of the rhubarb.

0:17:470:17:50

It's the stuff of Sunday lunches, really.

0:17:500:17:53

This is one of my desert-island dishes -

0:17:530:17:56

particularly with clotted cream,

0:17:560:17:58

which melts into the hot crumble so lusciously.

0:17:580:18:02

I've heard this story about Albert Roux.

0:18:020:18:04

When he interviews a chef for a job, he'll say,

0:18:040:18:08

"Right, just fry me an egg."

0:18:080:18:10

And... Because you can tell so much from how a chef fries an egg.

0:18:100:18:16

As far as I'm concerned, I think I'd say,

0:18:160:18:19

"Make me a rhubarb crumble."

0:18:190:18:20

So one person I've got to ask is Tom, cos you used to work for Rick.

0:18:260:18:29

Did he ever ask you to make a rhubarb crumble?

0:18:290:18:31

I did on the desserts section, but I had...

0:18:310:18:33

My best time with Rick, I spent a month just filleting fish -

0:18:330:18:36

I didn't do any cooking.

0:18:360:18:37

-I did all the fish prep for the restaurant.

-And that was it?

0:18:370:18:39

You can have a go at this, if you want!

0:18:390:18:41

Like you said, Rick said rhubarb is such a great ingredient

0:18:410:18:44

and it's bang in season at the minute.

0:18:440:18:46

And it's not just great in classic desserts, like crumbles

0:18:460:18:48

and stuff like that, but it's great for savoury dishes - fish, duck -

0:18:480:18:51

it can go with a variety of different things.

0:18:510:18:53

I'm going to show you a dish now which is like

0:18:530:18:55

an Indian-inspired rhubarb chutney,

0:18:550:18:57

and it's going to go with a simple grilled mackerel.

0:18:570:18:59

The first thing I'll do is run through the ingredients.

0:18:590:19:01

We've got some chilli here, curry leaves,

0:19:010:19:03

a little bit of mustard seed - they're going to get fried off.

0:19:030:19:06

I've got some palm sugar, cumin and coriander ground,

0:19:060:19:08

a little bit of lime, some mint and some rhubarb.

0:19:080:19:11

A little bit of watercress to go with it.

0:19:110:19:13

And then we've got our mackerel like that.

0:19:130:19:14

So first thing I'm going to do is

0:19:140:19:16

chop our chilli and our curry leaves,

0:19:160:19:19

and these are going to get fried up.

0:19:190:19:21

-You're looking a little bit nervous there.

-No, no!

0:19:210:19:24

It's just if you asked me to name all them ingredients again,

0:19:240:19:26

I'd... You know, I'd fail.

0:19:260:19:28

-These are fresh curry leaves.

-Fresh curry leaves - good.

0:19:280:19:31

That's what I was curious about - I'd never seen them before.

0:19:310:19:33

You've never...seen fresh curry leaves? Don't eat them.

0:19:330:19:36

-Don't eat them, no? Will they blow my head off?

-Eat them later.

0:19:360:19:38

-You can sniff them.

-OK, I'll sniff it.

0:19:380:19:41

Yeah, it's curry leaves, isn't it?

0:19:410:19:42

Yeah, great, you learn something new every day.

0:19:420:19:45

You learn something new every day.

0:19:450:19:46

This is a whole big learning curve for me.

0:19:460:19:48

Well, I'm pretty hopeless at acting as well,

0:19:480:19:50

but you weren't at the age of ten.

0:19:500:19:52

No, it's true. I was in my prime, some would say.

0:19:520:19:54

-Yeah, I mean, Bugsy Malone! I mean...

-Yeah.

-..with Jodie Foster.

0:19:540:19:58

-Jodie Foster, yeah.

-How did you get that part, anyway?

0:19:580:20:01

Just ten years old!

0:20:010:20:03

Well, you know, with my older brothers,

0:20:030:20:05

I went to a drama club in Islington

0:20:050:20:07

that my dear old nan Grace sent us to,

0:20:070:20:10

with my mum, took us there. It was a drama club after school.

0:20:100:20:14

And Alan Parker turned up there with a very early video camera,

0:20:140:20:17

I remember. Which was like a huge great thing

0:20:170:20:19

and he was making this film, Bugsy Malone,

0:20:190:20:21

and I was one of the kids who were lucky enough to get a part

0:20:210:20:24

and be in it.

0:20:240:20:25

It's a part that's stood out ever since.

0:20:250:20:27

It's been getting me work 25 years later.

0:20:270:20:29

It certainly has been getting you work.

0:20:290:20:31

I'll talk about this in a minute. I'm just going to fry this off.

0:20:310:20:34

Going to chop the rhubarb and throw that in, as well.

0:20:340:20:37

Just dice this up and throw that in also.

0:20:370:20:40

Like you said, getting you the work ever since.

0:20:400:20:42

Because, recently, you've been working with Robert De Niro.

0:20:420:20:46

Yes, I have. Yeah, yeah.

0:20:460:20:47

I did a film called Stardust with Robert De Niro.

0:20:470:20:50

I just had to stand around next to Robert De Niro

0:20:500:20:52

which, actually, was really quite a relief because I knew nobody

0:20:520:20:55

would really be looking at me.

0:20:550:20:56

You know, when you're on screen with Robert De Niro,

0:20:560:20:58

it's like the attention...

0:20:580:21:00

-Has he got the same presence on set that he has on...?

-Yeah. Very much.

0:21:000:21:04

He's a very powerful presence.

0:21:040:21:05

People tend to go very quiet when he's around. I don't know why.

0:21:050:21:08

I think he just thinks everywhere he goes it's just really quiet.

0:21:080:21:11

-Really silent. Yeah.

-People just stop talking.

0:21:110:21:14

He walks on set, everyone's quiet. You know?

0:21:140:21:16

So, no, but he's a lovely man.

0:21:160:21:18

But from that you were, literally, while that was going on,

0:21:180:21:21

I was asking you what you were doing while we were watching Rick.

0:21:210:21:23

You said, "I've just done something with Nicolas Cage."

0:21:230:21:26

I just got crushed in a car by Nicolas Cage.

0:21:260:21:29

The same director as Stardust.

0:21:290:21:31

The same director does this new film called Kick Ass,

0:21:310:21:33

which is like the animal, not like the part of the anatomy.

0:21:330:21:36

And his name is Matt Vaughan and he produced a film

0:21:360:21:39

called Lock, Stock And Two Smoking Barrels many years ago.

0:21:390:21:42

-Which you were in as well.

-Which, of course, I was in, as well.

0:21:420:21:45

And, so, he's just done this film with Nick Cage.

0:21:450:21:48

So, he put me in that as well. He also directed Layer Cake.

0:21:480:21:52

Which was with Daniel Craig.

0:21:520:21:54

Did you know when you were filming Lock, Stock

0:21:540:21:56

that it was going to be as big as what it was?

0:21:560:21:59

I don't suppose... This cult movie.

0:21:590:22:00

I mean, it'd be really cool to say, "Yeah, we knew it would be great."

0:22:000:22:03

"It was the greatest script we'd ever read."

0:22:030:22:05

It was a great script. There's no two ways about that.

0:22:050:22:08

But, with one of those small British movies, which there are a lot of,

0:22:080:22:11

it's one of those things that either really hits its moment

0:22:110:22:14

and becomes a great, classic film,

0:22:140:22:16

or they kind of disappear and you try again.

0:22:160:22:19

But that was just one of those great films.

0:22:190:22:21

I mean, Guy Ritchie is a good film-maker. So it stands up.

0:22:210:22:25

It was fantastic. So, just running through.

0:22:250:22:26

We've got all the gradients into our chutney now. In we go with the lime.

0:22:260:22:29

This has got the palm sugar and everything else in there.

0:22:290:22:32

We're just going to throw that in.

0:22:320:22:33

Lime juice gives it a bit of moisture.

0:22:330:22:35

There we go. Keep frying that off. It will cook in real-time, as well.

0:22:350:22:38

Same time, we're going to fillet our fresh mackerel.

0:22:380:22:41

It must be absolutely fresh as a daisy for this. We fillet it.

0:22:410:22:44

Just lift the knife underneath.

0:22:440:22:46

Pull that open, like that.

0:22:460:22:47

Try and buy a whole fish if you can do.

0:22:470:22:50

They are much better because you can see its eyes.

0:22:500:22:52

The eyes are the best way to tell, really,

0:22:520:22:54

on whether it's absolutely as fresh as a daisy

0:22:540:22:56

but it's very, very simple to fillet.

0:22:560:22:58

You just fillet that underneath, like that.

0:22:580:23:01

-Well, you make it look easy.

-Sorry? I made it look easy!

0:23:010:23:04

I've got a feeling it wouldn't be like that if I did it.

0:23:040:23:06

A little bit of oil on there. Oil on the fish.

0:23:060:23:10

Touch of salt.

0:23:100:23:11

Bit of black pepper. And we're going to pop our fish under the grill.

0:23:110:23:15

That's just going to go straight under there.

0:23:150:23:18

Really hot grill, if you can get it.

0:23:180:23:20

Nice and hot, right at the top,

0:23:200:23:21

that wants to go on there for about a couple of minutes.

0:23:210:23:24

Now, of course, from film to TV.

0:23:240:23:27

Because, from Friday, the fourth series of Hotel Babylon.

0:23:270:23:30

The fourth series of Hotel Babylon's back. It's very good.

0:23:300:23:33

Why did that part jump out at you? It's a great part, by the way.

0:23:330:23:36

You play a bit of a jack of all trades, don't you, really?

0:23:360:23:39

Well, that's what, in the first series, particularly,

0:23:390:23:41

as well, you had this guy who was seemingly very respectable

0:23:410:23:44

on the outside and keeping everything running smoothly.

0:23:440:23:47

-But a bit dodgy in the middle.

-Yeah, really, he's a bit dodgy.

0:23:470:23:50

He's got his finger in a lot of pies

0:23:500:23:51

and he keeps everything ticking over.

0:23:510:23:53

And I like that idea of this kind of man,

0:23:530:23:55

seemingly not at the forefront of things actually, kind of,

0:23:550:23:58

running and helping keeping everything moving.

0:23:580:24:00

And it's also that kind of graduation from Babyface, isn't it?

0:24:000:24:03

You've got a similar kind of character.

0:24:030:24:05

You know...

0:24:050:24:07

-Everything happens because of him.

-I suppose so.

0:24:070:24:10

I mean, I suppose Babyface was instrumental in his own way

0:24:100:24:13

-in the story of Bugsy Malone.

-Yeah.

0:24:130:24:15

And as it's Tony, I mean, you're right.

0:24:150:24:17

He kind of keeps the whole wheels oiled.

0:24:170:24:19

He's one of those kind of guys who keeps it all running

0:24:190:24:22

as smoothly as possible.

0:24:220:24:23

Because things go wrong. It's the nature of the show.

0:24:230:24:26

The fourth series, is there anything new in it?

0:24:260:24:29

New in the respect that Nigel Harman comes in and buys the hotel

0:24:290:24:32

-in the first episode. You know.

-Fairly new.

-That's fairly new.

0:24:320:24:36

The first episode opens,

0:24:360:24:37

it looks like the hotel is actually going to close down,

0:24:370:24:40

so, of course, we're all fairly down in the mouth about that.

0:24:400:24:43

And then Nigel, this kind of international playboy, turns up...

0:24:430:24:45

and, on a whim, buys the hotel,

0:24:450:24:47

which is great because it completely undermines

0:24:470:24:50

any serious nature of the show

0:24:500:24:51

and then you've got this guy flashing around with lots of money,

0:24:510:24:55

kind of, thinks he knows what he's doing, running this hotel

0:24:550:24:58

and he doesn't really.

0:24:580:24:59

He's got good intentions and he's a bit of a playboy and stuff.

0:24:590:25:03

It's kind of an interesting dynamic that's added to the whole...

0:25:030:25:06

And in between all the action one thing that fascinates me

0:25:060:25:09

is what you're up to.

0:25:090:25:10

Because you're going to Borneo, aren't you?

0:25:100:25:12

I'd love to see... I'd absolutely love to see this.

0:25:120:25:14

You're going to... Well, tell us.

0:25:140:25:16

Well, my wife is Lithuanian.

0:25:160:25:18

There's a Lithuanian woman called Birute Galdkias

0:25:180:25:21

and she has a sanctuary for orangutans out in Borneo.

0:25:210:25:23

Because their natural habitat is being destroyed

0:25:230:25:27

and there's lots of them are orphans

0:25:270:25:29

so she has this place where she re-habituates them, basically.

0:25:290:25:32

And she met my wife out in Lithuania and they got on very well

0:25:320:25:36

and she invited us out to Borneo to go to the sanctuary

0:25:360:25:39

-to do some volunteer work for a month or so.

-Fantastic.

0:25:390:25:42

So, we're going to get on a plane and get out there and get upriver

0:25:420:25:46

and, I don't know what we're going to be doing exactly.

0:25:460:25:49

There's orangutans involved - I know that much -

0:25:490:25:52

but my wife tells me it's going to be great.

0:25:520:25:54

Are you getting down and dirty with the orangutans?

0:25:540:25:56

Changing nappies and that sort of thing. Do they wear nappies?

0:25:560:26:00

That's what we're going to find out.

0:26:000:26:02

I think, the nature of it is, you know, you can go out there

0:26:020:26:05

and do something completely unique and interesting and amazing

0:26:050:26:09

and in a part of the world that's relatively untouched.

0:26:090:26:12

I think that's the big tragedy of it,

0:26:120:26:14

-that it's slowly being destroyed.

-It's getting touched quite a lot.

0:26:140:26:17

More and more. Yeah.

0:26:170:26:19

-Incredible experience to go out there and see it.

-Absolutely.

0:26:190:26:22

I get to good spend a good amount of time with my wife, as well,

0:26:220:26:25

which is always good because she works abroad a lot and so...

0:26:250:26:28

I don't know whether you get rhubarb in Borneo but, if you do...

0:26:280:26:32

I'll bring you back some.

0:26:320:26:33

Bring me back some and you can have a go at this. We've got our...fish,

0:26:330:26:36

which is under the grill.

0:26:360:26:38

Which is ready.

0:26:380:26:39

Really doesn't take long at all to cook some mackerel like that.

0:26:410:26:44

Straight out.

0:26:440:26:46

And, then, we lift off our... The thing about mackerel -

0:26:460:26:48

just cook it nice and simply. Fresh mackerel, you can't beat it.

0:26:480:26:51

A little bit of that on there.

0:26:510:26:54

Over there. Fresh mackerel. Rhubarb.

0:26:550:26:58

Inspired Indian chutney to go with it. Little bit of water.

0:26:580:27:02

-You reckon there's going to be some left?

-It'll be very hot.

0:27:020:27:05

-So, dive in. That chutney's quite hot and spicy. So...

-OK.

0:27:050:27:08

The fish is cooked.

0:27:080:27:09

There might be a little bit of bone in there, as well.

0:27:090:27:12

I don't mind that. OK.

0:27:120:27:13

It'll be hot. It'll be hot. Be hot. Let me get rid of that.

0:27:130:27:15

That is the hot bit. That's the chilli.

0:27:150:27:17

I love it when the chef takes out

0:27:170:27:19

what you're about to put in your mouth!

0:27:190:27:21

It's very hot.

0:27:210:27:22

In every sense.

0:27:230:27:24

Water there. Just nod.

0:27:260:27:29

-No. It's hot. It's warm hot.

-Yeah.

0:27:290:27:32

But the lime's really coming through, as well.

0:27:320:27:35

-Nice flavour?

-Well, I'm going...hurggh!

0:27:350:27:37

No, it's really good. It's very good.

0:27:370:27:39

-Rhubarb and mackerel, a great combination.

-It is.

0:27:390:27:41

It's a fantastic combination. Never had it before and I love it.

0:27:410:27:44

The way James was acting,

0:27:480:27:50

I thought the chutney was going to blow Dexter's head off.

0:27:500:27:52

Now, today, we're taking a look back

0:27:520:27:54

at some of the tastiest recipes from the archives

0:27:540:27:57

and we've still got some corkers for you.

0:27:570:27:59

Up next is Silvena Rowe with a tasty

0:27:590:28:01

Eastern Mediterranean pork-belly dish.

0:28:010:28:03

-Good to have you back on the show, Silvena.

-Great to be here.

0:28:030:28:05

-And you've been busy for the last couple of months.

-Very busy.

0:28:050:28:08

Actually, I've joined the rest of the cheffing world out there.

0:28:080:28:11

18 hours a day working and all that.

0:28:110:28:13

I mean, if I fall asleep here, slap me one, will you, please?

0:28:130:28:15

-I can't do that.

-With pleasure.

-Right, what are we cooking here?

0:28:150:28:18

Really, this is a fairly youngish pork belly.

0:28:180:28:23

You know, like a young animal. I want it to be fairly lean.

0:28:230:28:26

So this is quite good and lean.

0:28:260:28:28

So, basically, what I'm going to do with it

0:28:280:28:31

is just simply plonk it in my tray.

0:28:310:28:33

Here, I have some spices.

0:28:330:28:35

You want me to do these ones?

0:28:350:28:37

We've got some cardamom, some cumin seeds, and some fennel seeds.

0:28:370:28:41

So, while you actually crush the cardamom,

0:28:410:28:43

I'm going to rub my seeds on the top.

0:28:430:28:45

Because, you know, my restaurant is Eastern Mediterranean.

0:28:450:28:49

Kind of the forgotten Mediterranean.

0:28:490:28:51

That of Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Jordan.

0:28:510:28:55

1,001 culinary nights kind of thing.

0:28:550:28:58

You know? So, a little bit of salt goes in here.

0:28:580:29:01

There's particular spices over that way. Cardamom being one.

0:29:010:29:05

And that kind of stuff. It's very sweet a lot of their... Sugary.

0:29:050:29:08

-That kind of stuff.

-That's why I like to put, like...

0:29:080:29:12

You know, in this country, we love pork with apple.

0:29:120:29:14

So, instead of apple, I decided to go for a bit of blueberry.

0:29:140:29:17

At the restaurant, we have three major blueberry molasses.

0:29:170:29:20

Like, well, blueberry molasses, one, then pomegranate molasses,

0:29:200:29:23

and mulberry molasses.

0:29:230:29:24

And we use them in dressings, we use them in marinades and glazes, etc.

0:29:240:29:28

So, having done that, we have some chicken stock here.

0:29:280:29:31

Which I'm going to pour right over it.

0:29:310:29:33

And, basically, we're going to leave it now

0:29:330:29:36

for about three or four hours in a fairly low oven.

0:29:360:29:40

Once we've covered it, of course.

0:29:400:29:42

So, basically, braising it.

0:29:430:29:44

To be honest with you, I leave it for as long as I can

0:29:440:29:47

because I like the meat to be flaking off.

0:29:470:29:49

To be, kind of, be able to pull it.

0:29:490:29:50

-Sounds good to me.

-So, can you put it in the oven for me, please?

0:29:500:29:53

I'll put that in.

0:29:530:29:54

The other one, I think, yeah. Thank you so much.

0:29:540:29:57

So, what temperature is that, then?

0:29:570:29:59

Well, this is going to be about,

0:29:590:30:00

I don't know, 150, something like that.

0:30:000:30:02

Because, you know, I want it fairly slowly cooked.

0:30:020:30:04

Gas four, something like that.

0:30:040:30:06

-Let's see what's happening here, then.

-Yeah.

0:30:060:30:09

Oh. Very nice. So, this is looking fairly good.

0:30:090:30:12

Make sure that when you work with it, there's a little bit of colour.

0:30:120:30:15

-You need to wash your hands.

-Yeah.

0:30:150:30:16

There you go. Now, the salad with this.

0:30:160:30:18

You got, in here, some...

0:30:180:30:20

-Yeah. Before the salad, shall we do our...

-Why not?

0:30:200:30:24

-Let's do that.

-You do know who is the chef patron here, don't you?

0:30:240:30:28

-Imagine you're in Quince.

-I was never in doubt.

0:30:280:30:30

Right. Blueberry. Don't even go for the fresh ones

0:30:300:30:33

because the cheaper ones are those.

0:30:330:30:35

They are just as delicious, frozen ones.

0:30:350:30:37

-In here? In there.

-And you are wearing very appropriate colours.

0:30:370:30:39

Thank you very much for your consideration today.

0:30:390:30:42

It covered my white shirt this morning.

0:30:420:30:43

-Because it's spraying, we are fine. Water, please, as well.

-All that?

0:30:430:30:46

Yes, please. All of that.

0:30:460:30:47

And then you will pass it here because once you start a messy job,

0:30:470:30:51

you finish a messy job, basically.

0:30:510:30:53

-Can you pass it through this sieve?

-I will pass it, yeah.

0:30:530:30:55

-Once you pass it, please add the sugar.

-Yeah. I'll do that.

0:30:550:30:58

-And a little bit of lemon. In there.

-OK.

-Just a touch.

0:30:580:31:01

Now, congratulations. You got your first review today.

0:31:010:31:04

Yes, so, now, apparently, we're "sultry and glamorous", my dear.

0:31:040:31:08

-So, you know.

-Sultry and glamorous?

0:31:080:31:10

Yes. That's what has been said and, you know,

0:31:100:31:12

I couldn't disagree with it, really. Could I, now? You know...

0:31:120:31:15

-Are they on about you, or your restaurant?

-Exactly.

0:31:150:31:19

The restaurant is fabulous.

0:31:190:31:20

It's just exactly the epitome of sultry and glamorous.

0:31:200:31:23

-Did I say that again?

-I think that's a real compliment.

0:31:230:31:26

-So, this is going in there.

-"Sultry."

0:31:260:31:28

We're sieving it through.

0:31:280:31:30

We want, like, a very jammy puree.

0:31:300:31:32

And I'm afraid

0:31:320:31:34

this is not sold in the shop so you have to make it yourself.

0:31:340:31:36

Gives you a sense of accomplishment. It's quite delicious.

0:31:360:31:40

Right. So, the sugar goes in here, as well.

0:31:400:31:43

A little bit of lemon.

0:31:430:31:44

And, basically, on a very low heat,

0:31:440:31:46

leave it until it becomes quite jammy, type of thing. So...

0:31:460:31:49

Put this here for me, please. Doing everything for me now.

0:31:490:31:52

-Do what you're told, James.

-Quick! Quick!

0:31:520:31:54

I will have to remove that skin.

0:31:540:31:56

-You know your place on this game, I tell you.

-OK.

0:31:570:32:00

So we're removing the skin. This skin is beautiful.

0:32:000:32:02

-We're not going to use it on this occasion.

-Huh?

0:32:020:32:04

Take it home with you, if you want.

0:32:040:32:06

You know, because this is fabulous to actually do

0:32:060:32:08

-a crackling but not in this dish.

-OK.

0:32:080:32:10

You know, what is the best way to do crackling, James?

0:32:100:32:13

Can you say at this stage?

0:32:130:32:14

I, particularly with pork belly, you cook it for long,

0:32:140:32:17

slow cooking but you wouldn't cover it with tinfoil like that.

0:32:170:32:20

Otherwise, it sweats. You don't get it nice and crackly.

0:32:200:32:23

About the same amount of time.

0:32:230:32:24

Long and slow cooking and then crank up the heat before you need it.

0:32:240:32:27

OK. So, what we're going to do now is actually arrange

0:32:270:32:30

-our belly of pork on our tray.

-Where's the chilli going?

0:32:300:32:34

-The chilli's going in here, please.

-Yeah? In here?

-In here.

0:32:340:32:37

-In there?

-It's chilli and blueberry, yeah.

0:32:370:32:40

Put it in there, please. Yeah, please. Didn't I say that?

0:32:400:32:42

-Just checking first.

-You're too soft. People are so afraid of me.

0:32:420:32:46

All my chefs are afraid of me. I really don't know why.

0:32:460:32:49

I'll tell you one day.

0:32:490:32:51

-Over the phone!

-So, we're glazing it.

0:32:520:32:54

Now, at this stage, I love to put it in a very hot oven to finish it off

0:32:540:32:59

to give it a good crisp.

0:32:590:33:01

If you really want and you have the time to watch it,

0:33:010:33:03

you can finish it under the salamander if you have a restaurant,

0:33:030:33:07

-or a very hot grill if you're at home.

-Right.

0:33:070:33:10

Give it really a good whoosh of that.

0:33:100:33:13

Is that a portion size that you get?

0:33:130:33:15

Yeah, this is a portion size.

0:33:150:33:17

Basically, I cut it in four

0:33:170:33:18

and this is one of the bestselling dishes already.

0:33:180:33:20

I bet it is, if that's the size of a portion.

0:33:200:33:23

Well, this is fabulous. People love it.

0:33:230:33:24

People absolutely love it. Even people who don't love pork love it.

0:33:240:33:27

-You know.

-These are your leaves.

-You've done the leaves.

0:33:270:33:30

-All prepared.

-Can you finish them off?

0:33:300:33:31

-Put it in here, please.

-Absolutely. Why not?

0:33:310:33:33

-Thank you very much.

-Explain what we've got in here.

0:33:330:33:36

So, basically, we've got some yoghurt.

0:33:360:33:37

We've got some feta cheese and, actually, we're really,

0:33:370:33:40

-kind of, whooshing it together with a bit of cumin and, then...

-Lemon?

0:33:400:33:44

If you want. Why not? You know, why not? A little bit is OK.

0:33:440:33:48

No need of salt and, really, no need of pepper either.

0:33:480:33:51

Because the seasoning is perfect.

0:33:510:33:53

The lettuce leaves goes in there. Coat them nicely.

0:33:530:33:56

And then I've got some sesame, and some cumin seeds,

0:33:560:33:59

which I'm going to sprinkle on the top because I love the crunch.

0:33:590:34:02

The creaminess of the dressing with the crunch works beautifully.

0:34:020:34:05

So, tell us about the restaurant, Quince.

0:34:050:34:07

Quince is Eastern Mediterranean in the heart of London.

0:34:070:34:11

Iconic Mayfair. Fabulous food.

0:34:110:34:13

It's a touch of Lebanese, a touch of Ottoman, but, really,

0:34:130:34:16

very much British fare. This is the best of British pork.

0:34:160:34:20

The best of chicken, the best of British beef, etc.

0:34:200:34:23

The cote de boef is to die for. It's 45 days aged

0:34:230:34:26

and it's the best you'll eat in London.

0:34:260:34:28

So, come and try it because, I swear to you, it is unbelievable.

0:34:280:34:31

It is phenomenal. The salad is incredible.

0:34:310:34:33

All of the salads are fat-free.

0:34:330:34:35

You know, I don't use any dressings in my salad.

0:34:350:34:38

-So the food is very light and very delectable.

-Very light?

0:34:380:34:41

You've got two kilos of pork belly going on here.

0:34:410:34:43

This is the only pork dish.

0:34:430:34:45

Everybody is saying to me, "My God, you're doing Ottoman food,

0:34:450:34:47

"why are you putting pork?" We are in Britain.

0:34:470:34:49

We're not a native restaurant. And I love pork. You know?

0:34:490:34:52

British pork is phenomenal, so why not?

0:34:520:34:54

Where does your ideas come from, then?

0:34:540:34:56

My ideas - well, my heritage, my dear.

0:34:560:34:58

Everything is to do with my heritage.

0:34:580:34:59

I'm Ottoman, Turkish, Bulgarian.

0:34:590:35:02

And, basically, have gone back to my roots.

0:35:020:35:04

Right.

0:35:040:35:05

And it's a little bit of a play on flavours, that kind of thing.

0:35:050:35:08

You know? So, right.

0:35:080:35:10

That looks good to me.

0:35:100:35:12

It's delicious, yeah.

0:35:120:35:13

-This is fabulous, yes.

-Right.

0:35:130:35:15

You want it to be caramelised.

0:35:150:35:16

Remember that blueberry molasses will do exactly that.

0:35:160:35:20

-It will caramelise gorgeously.

-Tell me what I'm sprinkling on here.

0:35:200:35:24

Black sesame seeds and cumin seeds.

0:35:240:35:26

Gives it a wonderful crunch and a wonderful flavour. To finish.

0:35:260:35:30

-There you go. There's your little salad.

-Yeah.

0:35:310:35:34

And, here, our baby squares.

0:35:340:35:36

And this is phenomenal.

0:35:360:35:37

This is so delicious.

0:35:370:35:39

-You know...

-So, basically, goes back in at a really high temperature.

0:35:400:35:44

Yeah. Absolutely.

0:35:440:35:45

I mean, oven is easy because then you don't have to

0:35:450:35:48

really watch it so much. But, grill, you must watch it.

0:35:480:35:50

A little bit of seasoning on the top and this is your dish finished.

0:35:500:35:54

Here.

0:35:540:35:56

Looks good to me. Remind us, what's that dish again?

0:35:560:35:59

This is belly of pork,

0:35:590:36:00

twice cooked with blueberry and chilli molasses

0:36:000:36:03

and a salad with feta, whipped yoghurt,

0:36:030:36:06

and a little bit of touch of cumin.

0:36:060:36:08

Looks good to me.

0:36:080:36:09

-And I know it smells good.

-Does it taste good?

-I'm so excited.

0:36:140:36:19

Have a seat over here. There you go. Dive into that.

0:36:190:36:22

-Tell us what you think of that.

-Wow!

0:36:220:36:24

-Right.

-Go on.

-There you go.

0:36:240:36:25

I suppose pork is the only thing you could really do that with.

0:36:250:36:28

Beef brisket, you could probably do that with, slow-cooking.

0:36:280:36:31

But it's not going to get the same flavour with the blueberries.

0:36:310:36:33

No. Kind of, don't play with it.

0:36:330:36:35

I think pork lends it itself very well to this fruitiness.

0:36:350:36:38

-Smells amazing.

-It just works gorgeously together.

0:36:380:36:42

Even people who don't like pork love that dish.

0:36:420:36:45

Chicken thighs, I reckon.

0:36:450:36:47

Yeah, I have a chilli,

0:36:470:36:49

like a caramel chilli and harissa marinated chicken thighs.

0:36:490:36:51

Sounds good.

0:36:510:36:53

-Happy with that?

-That's really good.

-Thank you very much.

0:36:530:36:56

-You can still taste the blueberries through it.

-Fresh and...

-Yeah.

0:36:560:37:00

-Really good.

-Ever cooked pork and blueberries, Will?

0:37:000:37:02

No, but, like you said, you know, you always have something

0:37:020:37:06

fruity and sweet with pork to cut the fattiness.

0:37:060:37:08

So, why not use blueberries? You know? I think it's really good.

0:37:080:37:10

And still over there with Turkish,

0:37:100:37:12

-you still have that fruit and pork mix.

-The chilli's there. Absolutely.

0:37:120:37:15

Well, the molasses is very Turkish. So, they usually use pomegranate

0:37:150:37:21

but, in my restaurant, use pomegranate with lamb.

0:37:210:37:23

I think it works better with lamb.

0:37:230:37:25

The blueberries, particularly fabulous with the pork.

0:37:250:37:28

And mulberry molasses I use for my dressings.

0:37:280:37:30

All my dressings are based on fruit. Nothing is actually with oil.

0:37:300:37:33

-Not a single dressing with oil. So it's fabulous.

-Sounds good to me.

0:37:330:37:37

They're all diving in. I'm not going to get any of this.

0:37:370:37:40

Pork and blueberries. Whoever knew?

0:37:450:37:46

Right, now time for more Floyd In Spain

0:37:460:37:49

and this week he is getting into the party mood in Majorca.

0:37:490:37:51

Dearest Hector,

0:37:580:37:59

there is nothing like a mini cruise to get the taste buds going.

0:37:590:38:02

After a particularly agreeable plate of grilled sardines

0:38:020:38:05

and a real salad, for once,

0:38:050:38:06

it's time to set foot on the island of Mallorca.

0:38:060:38:09

Now, I know you've been here before and you love it but, to me,

0:38:090:38:11

it's always been synonymous with gold medallions and Gucci shoes.

0:38:110:38:15

However, in my new guise as a culinary detective,

0:38:150:38:18

I intend to discover the real roots of Mallorcan cuisine

0:38:180:38:20

and, anyway, I'll keep you posted.

0:38:200:38:22

So, Palma. People from the East came here.

0:38:310:38:34

The Greeks, the Moors from the African coast,

0:38:340:38:36

the Phoenicians, the Romans.

0:38:360:38:38

They've all, in some way, left their mark.

0:38:380:38:40

But to Senor Floyd, ace gastronomic detective with a licence to cook,

0:38:400:38:43

the way to understand the history of a country is through its food.

0:38:430:38:47

My search began when I was invited to a party.

0:38:550:38:58

I don't care for parties, as a rule.

0:38:580:39:00

For some strange reason, they make me want to panic

0:39:000:39:02

and rush for the nearest bar.

0:39:020:39:03

However, in my quest to find the authentic taste of Mallorca,

0:39:030:39:06

I was kindly invited to this one.

0:39:060:39:08

I'm sure they said you'll find the true flavour of Mallorca here.

0:39:080:39:12

Hmm. I'm sure.

0:39:120:39:13

I'm a figment of yours and my imagination.

0:39:150:39:18

Absolutely. Welcome.

0:39:180:39:20

MUSIC: Little Arrows by Leapy Lee

0:39:200:39:23

With Leapy Lee playing in the background,

0:39:230:39:25

this, I've been repeatedly told,

0:39:250:39:27

is a classless society where the only real membership requirement

0:39:270:39:30

is a few bob in the bank and an appetite for enjoying oneself,

0:39:300:39:33

a liking of the odd glass or three

0:39:330:39:35

and the political persuasion is a healthy shade of blue.

0:39:350:39:37

The only thing Mallorcan about the evening was the warm, scented air.

0:39:370:39:41

Nobody here seems deeply into food and, I must say,

0:39:430:39:46

the prospect of finding a truly Mallorcan plate of food here

0:39:460:39:49

is as remote as listening to authentic Balearic folk music.

0:39:490:39:52

While the buffet looked attractive,

0:39:530:39:56

there were lots of healthy salads, coleslaw, and smoked salmon -

0:39:560:39:59

the usual things you'd expect to find

0:39:590:40:00

in Golders Green or San Francisco

0:40:000:40:02

but nothing stood out as truly Mallorcan.

0:40:020:40:04

So, I ask Chef Donal what the true Mallorcan cuisine was all about.

0:40:040:40:09

Lots of their dishes are all done on bread.

0:40:090:40:12

Ham and cheese and garlic and onions on a baguette, as a first course

0:40:120:40:17

of some sort.

0:40:170:40:19

If you went to a Mallorquin home,

0:40:190:40:21

they'd give you some sort of pa amb oli,

0:40:210:40:23

either with cheese and olives and onions and garlic and then

0:40:230:40:26

it would be followed by either a suckling pig,

0:40:260:40:29

or a piece of pork wrapped up in cabbage...

0:40:290:40:33

..or the shellfish again,

0:40:340:40:36

which has a lot of influence.

0:40:360:40:39

Chin-chin, Keith. Have a good time. We know how to have a good time.

0:40:390:40:44

-That is the essence...

-Of life!

-That is the essence of life! Isn't it?

0:40:440:40:49

Alan Wicker said that to me constantly.

0:40:490:40:53

And now Keith Floyd is following.

0:40:530:40:54

They were a brilliantly friendly bunch

0:40:560:40:58

but my gastronomic quest was going nowhere.

0:40:580:41:00

I declined the offer of another plateful of ham and pineapple

0:41:000:41:03

and cold roast beef with horseradish sauce

0:41:030:41:05

and turned in early in readiness for tomorrow's search.

0:41:050:41:08

Before I can paint a culinary picture of a place,

0:41:160:41:18

I need to wander around using my nose

0:41:180:41:20

to smell the delicate aromas and robust smells

0:41:200:41:22

from Mallorca's kitchens.

0:41:220:41:24

Using my eyes to find those little telltale signs that say,

0:41:240:41:26

we cook Mallorquin cuisine and we're proud of it.

0:41:260:41:29

Ah, what's this?

0:41:290:41:31

Perros calientes. Perro means dog and caliente means hot.

0:41:310:41:35

A dog hot. Interesting.

0:41:350:41:37

No, it's not a paella.

0:41:370:41:39

No, it's not a jambalaya.

0:41:390:41:42

It is an arroz brut. It is the signature, classic dish of Mallorca.

0:41:420:41:48

It is a broth of rice, of rabbit, of chicken, vegetables, and offal.

0:41:480:41:53

It is a fabulously exquisite, authentic,

0:41:530:41:56

traditional dish which, after two hours of padding round,

0:41:560:41:59

like shoestring around the derelict, desolate streets of Palma,

0:41:590:42:05

we have actually found a real restaurant

0:42:050:42:07

that serves real Mallorcan food.

0:42:070:42:09

I've eaten. Clive's eaten. The gang have all eaten.

0:42:090:42:11

I had a roast leg of lamb, all the rest of it,

0:42:110:42:13

I'm so excited about this place that I'm going to try

0:42:130:42:15

to do my next cooking sketch in their kitchen.

0:42:150:42:17

They don't know this yet but I am going to go and ask them

0:42:170:42:19

because I reckon that we've spent enough money

0:42:190:42:21

that they might let us in.

0:42:210:42:23

And I've also had a few glasses of wine, which is most unusual for me.

0:42:230:42:25

But we have had lunch.

0:42:250:42:27

Back on there. I'm going to go and chat up the management.

0:42:270:42:30

-Hello!

-Hello! How are you?

-Very good.

-Very good.

-Excellent.

0:42:350:42:38

Can I speak to the head chef?

0:42:380:42:41

That lady there?

0:42:440:42:46

Senora. Senora.

0:42:460:42:49

Now, I've never actually done this before.

0:42:510:42:53

I've always wanted to but I've always been a bit shy.

0:42:530:42:56

Sometimes, I get dragged into kitchens

0:42:560:42:58

that don't remotely interest me.

0:42:580:42:59

But these kind people, who were bit bemused at first,

0:42:590:43:01

and then welcomed me with open arms.

0:43:010:43:03

Even though I don't speak the language,

0:43:030:43:05

but food and its appreciation opens any door.

0:43:050:43:08

This is one of David, the director, telling a little white lie

0:43:100:43:12

-on how long we're taking over their kitchen.

-Cook... Shhh!

0:43:120:43:15

Notice the fluent Spanish, by the way.

0:43:150:43:17

We've cracked it!

0:43:180:43:20

We've actually got into a real Mallorcan kitchen

0:43:200:43:22

where they serve splendid food.

0:43:220:43:24

I don't speak Spanish, I don't know how to cook the stuff.

0:43:240:43:27

But we're going to do it. We have actually won!

0:43:270:43:29

Come on, Clive. Back to our drinks!

0:43:290:43:31

This is the sort of place

0:43:330:43:34

where I can really spend the whole afternoon

0:43:340:43:37

in my new guise as a culinary detective,

0:43:370:43:39

watching for those telltale signs

0:43:390:43:40

that distinguish the genuine from the bogus.

0:43:400:43:43

No further ado, Clive. A quick spin round the ingredients.

0:43:430:43:45

Starting from here.

0:43:450:43:47

We have four different kinds of meat.

0:43:470:43:49

We've got rabbit, we've got quail, we've got pork,

0:43:490:43:52

and we've got chicken.

0:43:520:43:54

Then we have green peppers,

0:43:540:43:55

we have a mixture of fresh vegetables -

0:43:550:43:57

in this case, peas, beans, butter beans, red peppers,

0:43:570:44:01

and mushrooms, but you can use any kind of vegetable that you like.

0:44:010:44:03

We have the ever-present tomato and onion.

0:44:030:44:07

We have snails and we have rice. OK. Right.

0:44:070:44:10

Whack into one of these lovely little earthenware pots

0:44:110:44:14

and the very first thing we do is put our meat in....

0:44:140:44:18

Like so.

0:44:180:44:20

When these are browned, it only takes two or three minutes,

0:44:200:44:23

then I add the onions and tomatoes with a little seasoning.

0:44:230:44:26

Muy brilliente!

0:44:270:44:29

OK. Now. That sizzles away for a little bit. Isn't this fun?

0:44:300:44:37

This is really good fun, you know.

0:44:370:44:38

Right, in with the green peppers. Finely chopped.

0:44:400:44:43

Incidentally, one of the interesting things

0:44:430:44:46

about all the food we're eating here is its absolute freshness.

0:44:460:44:50

I think he just waved at me to push my hair out of the way.

0:44:500:44:53

But the green peppers here taste sweet because they haven't

0:44:530:44:56

come from under cloches of plastic in some northern country -

0:44:560:45:00

they've been growing in rich, fertile earth under the hot sun,

0:45:000:45:04

which makes them taste so delicious.

0:45:040:45:06

Right, next stage, then.

0:45:060:45:08

-Is the verduras.

-Verduras.

-OK. The verduras goes on next.

0:45:090:45:14

And verduras is vegetables. OK.

0:45:150:45:18

Just to remind you, we've got peas, beans, red peppers.

0:45:180:45:22

And wild mushrooms. Right.

0:45:230:45:25

Then you'll appreciate that we're doing this at a speed

0:45:260:45:29

to end up with a dish,

0:45:290:45:31

so that we can get onto the beach and have the afternoon off. OK?

0:45:310:45:33

So I'm not letting every stage cook right the way through because

0:45:330:45:36

you will see, through the clever way of editing,

0:45:360:45:38

the actual finished dish anyway.

0:45:380:45:40

Right, in go the snails.

0:45:400:45:42

Los caracoles.

0:45:420:45:44

OK.

0:45:440:45:46

Once all the ingredients are in the pot you need to add

0:45:460:45:49

a couple of ladles of chicken stock or rabbit stock.

0:45:490:45:52

Just let the whole thing bubble up

0:45:520:45:53

because you've got to put the rice in in a minute, don't forget.

0:45:530:45:56

-Mas, mas, mas.

-Mas, mas, mas. OK.

0:45:560:45:58

OK. And then, finally the arroz,

0:45:590:46:03

which, as we know, in any language, is rice.

0:46:030:46:06

Use carefully washed rice so it doesn't make the sauce starchy,

0:46:070:46:10

and boil for about 20 minutes.

0:46:100:46:12

Right, Clive, come back, please, cos there's one thing I've forgot -

0:46:120:46:16

something very important to Spanish cooking, the last moment of

0:46:160:46:20

flavouring, and this is garlic and parsley finely chopped,

0:46:200:46:23

which, at the last minute, you sprinkle

0:46:230:46:26

a little bit into your dish to give it that fine flavour. OK, now...

0:46:260:46:29

To Isabella's recipe but cooked by me.

0:46:360:46:39

-Senora.

-Gracias.

-De nada.

0:46:390:46:42

Bueno.

0:46:440:46:45

THEY CONVERSE IN SPANISH

0:46:450:46:53

Good colour?

0:46:530:46:54

Muy bueno, Senor Floyd.

0:46:570:46:59

I woke early in the morning - with a slight head, I might add -

0:47:140:47:17

in order to catch the little train that goes from the capital,

0:47:170:47:19

Palma, to the little town of Soller in the mountains.

0:47:190:47:22

There's nothing like a train journey to give one

0:47:220:47:24

a true appreciation for the flavour of the land,

0:47:240:47:26

through almond trees and vineyards and olive groves.

0:47:260:47:29

And the little train said,

0:47:310:47:32

"I think I can, I think I can, I think I can."

0:47:320:47:36

Clive was really happy filming the countryside but as an ardent

0:47:410:47:44

train spotter he was doubly chuffed.

0:47:440:47:46

You should see his anorak - it's covered in badges.

0:47:460:47:49

This must have been one of the happiest little trains in the

0:47:490:47:52

whole of Spain.

0:47:520:47:53

The engine's name is Julio and he's been huffing and puffing up

0:47:530:47:56

and down this narrow-gauge track for nearly 150 years,

0:47:560:47:59

man and boy. Or as they say here, hombre y muchacho.

0:47:590:48:03

By the time the little train arrived, I was famished and it was

0:48:130:48:16

still early and time to enjoy a true Mallorcan breakfast.

0:48:160:48:19

Great journey, great station, great train.

0:48:220:48:25

And a typically great Mallorcan breakfast.

0:48:250:48:28

I got on the portable dog and bone while I was chugging up the

0:48:280:48:30

mountainside, said, "Could you lay on a little snack for me?"

0:48:300:48:33

Well, they took me at my word - what did they give me?

0:48:330:48:35

They gave me the Mallorcan elevenses.

0:48:350:48:37

The Spaniards who start work very early in the morning don't have

0:48:370:48:39

time for breakfast, so around about 11 - and it is actually 10.55 -

0:48:390:48:42

they stop for this. Have a spin round, Clive.

0:48:420:48:45

They have some things called cocas,

0:48:450:48:46

which is a kind of Mallorcan pizza, though it's not a pizza at

0:48:460:48:49

all cos it's not a dough pastry - it's an ordinary shortcrust pastry,

0:48:490:48:52

covered in this case with chard and tomato,

0:48:520:48:55

olive oil and baked in the oven.

0:48:550:48:57

Then they have a bit of bread with some sobrassada,

0:48:570:48:59

which is a very important local sausage of pork and paprika.

0:48:590:49:02

In the winter that would be served hot - toasted if you like.

0:49:020:49:05

Then they have a few chillies or peppers,

0:49:050:49:07

spiced green peppers and olives.

0:49:070:49:09

Another kind of coca - this one's got red peppers, tomatoes, onions,

0:49:090:49:13

parsley and garlic in it.

0:49:130:49:14

Then they'd also probably have either mountain ham or cooked ham

0:49:140:49:18

with tomato. The bread underneath has been covered in olive oil -

0:49:180:49:20

very important thing - and munched down with the odd green pepper.

0:49:200:49:24

And, of course, they might have a glass of lemon juice or

0:49:240:49:27

orange juice cos this region produces stacks of it.

0:49:270:49:30

But myself, I prefer a little rosado.

0:49:300:49:33

Gastronomic sleuthing is fun,

0:49:350:49:37

and working on my policy of having high friends in low places,

0:49:370:49:40

I spent the previous evening researching in bars.

0:49:400:49:43

So after I'd had one or two - it was a great bar and the barman

0:49:430:49:45

seemed to know a great deal about things and he said,

0:49:450:49:48

"Go and find the city of the lost Incas."

0:49:480:49:49

I thought, "My name's not Conan Doyle, it's Floyd."

0:49:490:49:52

Anyway, I got the maps out and I found not the city of the lost

0:49:520:49:55

Incas but Inca, a little town slap bang in the middle of

0:49:550:49:58

Robert Graves' preferred island.

0:49:580:50:00

Where, they said - he said, anyway - you will find a genuinely

0:50:000:50:03

authentic Mallorcan restaurant where they serve the business.

0:50:030:50:07

So this is what I think I'm finding.

0:50:070:50:09

In fact, the trail led to a dusty,

0:50:130:50:15

sleepy town where the recommended restaurant, Celler Can Amer,

0:50:150:50:19

was built in an old wine cellar where Senora Antonio practised her

0:50:190:50:23

time-honoured craft, the preparation of traditional Mallorcan dishes -

0:50:230:50:26

one of the classics being sopas de Mallorca.

0:50:260:50:30

It's made by adding celery, onions, peppers, cabbage, leeks,

0:50:330:50:36

parsley - in fact, a cornucopia of fresh vegetables stewed in

0:50:360:50:40

olive oil that's been flavoured with garlic and pimentos.

0:50:400:50:43

Originally, it was a peasant dish, and to make it more bulky and go

0:50:450:50:48

further they would half-fill the serving bowls with the stew,

0:50:480:50:51

then add stale bread, sprinkle that with olive oil,

0:50:510:50:54

then add more vegetable stew and pop it back in the oven for

0:50:540:50:56

another ten minutes or so.

0:50:560:50:58

So when's a soup not a soup? When it's a sopas de Mallorca.

0:50:580:51:02

Quite delicious! I could tuck into a pot of that right now.

0:51:020:51:05

And so the plot thickens.

0:51:200:51:22

We've been travelling over mountains, by tram, by train,

0:51:220:51:25

by car, down the valleys,

0:51:250:51:27

along the beaches and now by punting into the salt marshes.

0:51:270:51:31

Everyone has told me that this shallow lake in the north of

0:51:380:51:41

the island is important to Mallorcan cuisine,

0:51:410:51:44

not because it makes me look a bit like Humphrey Bogart in

0:51:440:51:47

The African Queen, but because here the locals trap eels and

0:51:470:51:50

keep them alive in these special baskets.

0:51:500:51:52

And here the eel is regarded as a great delicacy.

0:51:520:51:55

They tell me that you never find them in any restaurants but

0:51:550:51:58

they celebrate them like nobody's business.

0:51:580:52:01

Right, it's very important with these wood stoves to get the right

0:52:010:52:05

mark. They're flaming away there so you need it at wood mark two,

0:52:050:52:08

lift that to one side.

0:52:080:52:11

In my travels around Mallorca I have met a lot of people who've said,

0:52:110:52:15

"This is a very typical dish, this is a very typical dish."

0:52:150:52:18

I don't always believe them.

0:52:180:52:20

And when they told me that here eels were the business, I thought,

0:52:200:52:23

"Is that really true?"

0:52:230:52:24

Because you know how sort of interested parties sometimes

0:52:240:52:27

try to steer you towards a particular thing for their

0:52:270:52:30

own benefit, so I was a bit suspicious.

0:52:300:52:32

But in fact eels here - caught from here - are the most

0:52:320:52:35

phenomenally popular dish in the region.

0:52:350:52:37

In fact, in January each year they have

0:52:370:52:39

a week-long eel festival they like them so much.

0:52:390:52:42

Anyway, that's enough history and information,

0:52:420:52:44

suspicions and things like that.

0:52:440:52:46

Clive, have a little look round my ingredients here.

0:52:460:52:48

First of all, of course, we have the eels.

0:52:480:52:51

Just chopped into bite-size pieces.

0:52:510:52:55

OK, they're fried with a sauce made of green peppers, onions,

0:52:550:53:00

leeks and tomatoes.

0:53:000:53:02

There's some more refined bits that go into it but I can more

0:53:020:53:05

easily show you that in the pot.

0:53:050:53:07

So, first of all, I need to crush a little bit of garlic.

0:53:070:53:11

Just very roughly with your hands.

0:53:110:53:14

There's nothing fine about this...nothing refined about

0:53:140:53:17

this kind of cooking.

0:53:170:53:19

And you need a dried chilli but not too much of it cos otherwise

0:53:190:53:23

it'll burn the roof of your mouth off.

0:53:230:53:26

And a bit of fresh green chilli, OK? Clove of garlic.

0:53:260:53:29

And the very first thing we do, to flavour the oil,

0:53:290:53:32

is pop all of that...into the pot.

0:53:320:53:37

Sizzle, sizzle, sizzle.

0:53:370:53:38

Right, now, this is a difficult one to shoot because of the wind,

0:53:380:53:41

because of the fire.

0:53:410:53:42

I have got my table of ingredients at a safe distance away from

0:53:420:53:45

both your legs, Clive, and my rather expensive trousers.

0:53:450:53:49

So, next thing, we flour the eels.

0:53:490:53:52

Like so.

0:53:550:53:57

Nicely floured.

0:53:580:54:00

And we pop them into the oil.

0:54:020:54:07

Bay leaf.

0:54:210:54:23

And a quick stir round.

0:54:260:54:27

Is it worth giving one of your best ones on that, Clive?

0:54:340:54:37

They look absolutely splendid sizzling in the very hot,

0:54:370:54:39

brilliant olive oil.

0:54:390:54:42

Thank you. Stay there for a second, please. Just a second.

0:54:420:54:45

Right, now they come out.

0:54:450:54:48

And are put to one side for a moment or two.

0:54:510:54:54

It's very important that all this garlic and the bay leaves and

0:54:560:54:59

the chillies are in here cos the eels have taken all the flavour

0:54:590:55:03

from those spices and herbs and from the olive oil.

0:55:030:55:06

So they'll have a very distinct flavour even though they're

0:55:060:55:09

going into a sauce. Right.

0:55:090:55:12

Put them to one side.

0:55:140:55:16

Now there's a slightly boring bit - it's very boring -

0:55:160:55:18

you can either watch this or not, as you wish,

0:55:180:55:20

but you in fact have to throw this oil away,

0:55:200:55:23

and you do that very ecologically by walking behind the camera,

0:55:230:55:26

while you gaze at the mountains.

0:55:260:55:28

And you replace that there.

0:55:320:55:34

And using a highly typical Mallorcan oil pourer...

0:55:340:55:37

..you put in a load more oil.

0:55:390:55:42

While the oil heats up in my earthenware pot,

0:55:420:55:44

back at the eel hunter's secret headquarters

0:55:440:55:47

the senor is preparing a lovely fresh Mallorcan salad called trampo,

0:55:470:55:50

while her husband's busily peeling the beans.

0:55:500:55:54

Trampo is made with freshly cooked tuna - you could use tinned -

0:55:540:55:56

finely chopped peppers, red and green,

0:55:560:55:59

onions and tomatoes and wine vinegar and salt and pepper seasoning.

0:55:590:56:02

It's fantastic for a light lunch on a hot day.

0:56:020:56:05

Anyway, the eel hunters spend every Saturday afternoon here and

0:56:050:56:09

enjoy light, healthy lunches. Ho, ho, ho.

0:56:090:56:12

Now, my sauce is virtually ready.

0:56:120:56:16

Let me just recap on that because it is the essence to Spanish

0:56:160:56:20

cooking to sweat your onions and leeks,

0:56:200:56:22

the basic things you use to make sauces,

0:56:220:56:24

so all the liquid has gone out of them and the flavour remains.

0:56:240:56:28

So, first of all, olive oil, finely chopped onions,

0:56:280:56:31

finely chopped green peppers, finely chopped leeks.

0:56:310:56:34

Simmer away in olive oil,

0:56:340:56:35

lots of fresh finely chopped tomato and a little bit of red chilli,

0:56:350:56:40

salt and pepper and cook for...

0:56:400:56:42

That's been about 50 minutes, actually,

0:56:420:56:44

and you have this unctuous, rich sauce full of flavour.

0:56:440:56:48

It really is good.

0:56:480:56:50

You remember the fried eels which we had.

0:56:500:56:52

They were quickly fried in olive oil flavoured with

0:56:520:56:55

a bay leaf and garlic.

0:56:550:56:57

They just go into there and simmer away for just a few minutes

0:56:570:57:03

so that they now get the extra flavour of the tomato sauce.

0:57:030:57:06

Anyway, I reckon it's a pretty good dish.

0:57:060:57:09

Seems OK to me.

0:57:090:57:11

That is what I think is, for this part of Mallorca, on a plate.

0:57:110:57:14

These men enjoy their own company. They love fishing and hunting but

0:57:190:57:23

there's no point at all doing these things if you don't like eating.

0:57:230:57:26

I was supposed to have served lunch at 2.00. Now it's going on for 4.00

0:57:260:57:29

and everyone's getting a little relaxed -

0:57:290:57:31

or, as they say here, tranquilo.

0:57:310:57:32

I'm probably going to poison you.

0:57:380:57:40

Put it there?

0:57:440:57:47

Let's see. I've no idea whether this is any good or not -

0:57:470:57:50

I've never cooked it before in my life.

0:57:500:57:52

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:57:590:58:02

HE REPLIES IN SPANISH

0:58:020:58:06

Thank you!

0:58:140:58:16

He's mesmerizingly good, isn't he?

0:58:210:58:23

Now, as ever on Best Bites we're looking back at some of the

0:58:230:58:26

finest Saturday Kitchen recipes.

0:58:260:58:28

Still to come on today's show, Alain Roux,

0:58:280:58:30

Nathan Outlaw and Marcus Wareing

0:58:300:58:32

go head-to-head-to-head at the omelette-challenge hobs,

0:58:320:58:35

to celebrate James' 40th birthday.

0:58:350:58:37

Paul Rankin is here extolling the virtues of British rose veal.

0:58:370:58:41

Pan-fried veal chops are then served with broad beans, peas and romaine

0:58:410:58:45

lettuce, cooked in butter and served with Jersey Royal potatoes.

0:58:450:58:49

And Patsy Palmer faces her food heaven or food hell.

0:58:490:58:52

Did she get food heaven - strawberry mille-feuille

0:58:520:58:54

with strawberry sauce -

0:58:540:58:55

or her food hell - smoked salmon and spinach tart with watercress,

0:58:550:58:58

pesto and salad? You can find out what she got at the end of the show.

0:58:580:59:01

Next up, it's Ashley Palmer-Watts with a delicious restaurant-style

0:59:010:59:05

shellfish recipe that he's tailor-made for you to cook at home.

0:59:050:59:08

-Ashley Palmer-Watts.

-Morning.

0:59:080:59:10

With the biggest scallops we've ever had on the show.

0:59:100:59:13

-Pretty good size.

-Where are these from?

0:59:130:59:15

These are from the outer Hebrides on the west coast of Scotland.

0:59:150:59:18

Going to show you how to open those.

0:59:180:59:19

What are we going to do with all of this?

0:59:190:59:21

We are going to make a dish with a really sort of vegetable

0:59:210:59:24

broth with some pickled seaweed,

0:59:240:59:27

we got some cooked barley. You're going to make the stock.

0:59:270:59:29

If you can start grating all those vegetables, really small,

0:59:290:59:33

-into the pan, a quick sweat and then the water in.

-OK.

0:59:330:59:37

-I'll get sorting out the dulse.

-This is the dulse.

0:59:370:59:40

This has been dried, we've just rehydrated it,

0:59:400:59:43

washed it really well. And then into a pan.

0:59:430:59:46

It's quite topical cos I went foraging for this.

0:59:460:59:48

I've never been foraging in my life.

0:59:480:59:50

I went foraging for this in Wales this week.

0:59:500:59:53

-You get this when the tide's out.

-That's it. You've gotta be quick.

0:59:530:59:56

-The seaweed's further out.

-Exactly.

0:59:560:59:59

We've got water, white soy,

0:59:591:00:00

and we've got a little bit of white-wine vinegar.

1:00:001:00:03

Salt and sugar. A very simple pickle.

1:00:031:00:05

But you can use this pickle for things like mushrooms,

1:00:051:00:09

lemons, seaweed, different types.

1:00:091:00:12

We're literally going to bring that to the boil and pour it over

1:00:121:00:15

our seaweed, pop it in the fridge for 24 hours and then it's

1:00:151:00:18

-ready the next day.

-You mentioned the word "frumenty" -

1:00:181:00:21

this is where you get a lot of your inspiration from,

1:00:211:00:23

these historical sort of cookbooks and that kind of stuff, don't you?

1:00:231:00:28

Yeah, it's an old dish that was very much taken to someone's house

1:00:281:00:32

as a gift. So if I came to your housie for dinner I'd bring you

1:00:321:00:35

a pot of this frumenty.

1:00:351:00:37

And it would be very, very simple. Quite a humble sort of food.

1:00:371:00:40

Cracked wheat or barely, and then we'd have some fruit in there,

1:00:401:00:45

generally meat. Anything, really. That's generally how it was.

1:00:451:00:48

-Whatever you had in the larder you would use.

-Right.

1:00:481:00:51

I take it the grating of this is to get it nice and fine.

1:00:511:00:55

Yeah, as fine as possible.

1:00:551:00:56

-So you get the most amount of flavour from it.

-Exactly.

1:00:561:00:58

As much surface area as possible.

1:00:581:01:00

And then we want to cook it only for 20 minutes and then we'll put

1:01:001:01:03

the herbs in and then pull it off the heat.

1:01:031:01:06

Keep it nice and fresh.

1:01:061:01:08

-You mentioned white soy sauce.

-Yes.

-What else would you use that for?

1:01:091:01:15

We use it as a seasoning, so any sort of soups or broths or

1:01:151:01:18

things like that, it's very, very good for.

1:01:181:01:21

It's got a lot of umami in it,

1:01:211:01:23

so you end up with this really amazing sort of mouth feel

1:01:231:01:26

when you use white soy.

1:01:261:01:28

Right. Tell us about Dinner, then.

1:01:281:01:31

Cos it's amazing spot, right in the centre of London.

1:01:311:01:34

Surrounded by some pretty incredible restaurants, as well,

1:01:341:01:37

-right on your doorstep.

-Yeah. It's a kind of dream come true, really,

1:01:371:01:41

the company that are around in Knightsbridge is quite amazing.

1:01:411:01:45

People that I grew up reading their cookbooks.

1:01:451:01:47

You've got Pierre Koffmann just literally over the road.

1:01:471:01:50

Yeah, and Marcus Wareing and...

1:01:501:01:52

Oh, there's so many, so many restaurants.

1:01:521:01:55

-Daniel Boulud, he's down just underneath you...

-Yeah,

1:01:551:01:59

so when he's in town he always pops up.

1:01:591:02:02

Causes a little bit of commotion.

1:02:021:02:04

We're just going to start roasting these scallops. Nice hot pan.

1:02:041:02:07

-But your whole menu is based on historical sort of dishes.

-Yes.

1:02:071:02:11

So where do you get your inspiration from? Cos there must be a limit from

1:02:111:02:14

cookbooks you can buy. Where do you go...

1:02:141:02:17

Yeah, a lot of these cookbooks, they're one-offs.

1:02:171:02:19

They are very much owned by specialist people,

1:02:191:02:22

food historians, that kind of thing.

1:02:221:02:26

National Library, Hampton Court.

1:02:261:02:28

We worked with a guy at Hampton Court - amazing,

1:02:281:02:31

like a font of all knowledge to do with history.

1:02:311:02:35

So you could spend hours down there talking about bits and bobs.

1:02:351:02:39

So when this comes to the boil,

1:02:391:02:40

we're just going to pour that over the seaweed.

1:02:401:02:44

We'll pop that in the fridge.

1:02:461:02:49

Before, obviously, you reconstituted it, but you can buy this dry.

1:02:491:02:53

I'm assuming you basically take this then blend it and that's where you

1:02:531:02:57

end up with a powder you're going to use as well, so it's the same stuff.

1:02:571:03:00

Yeah, dried or fresh. Fresh, if you can get it, is great.

1:03:021:03:05

But it tastes like mushrooms.

1:03:051:03:07

Yeah, really lovely. It's a great seasoning, it's a great texture,

1:03:071:03:11

and the thing with this dish is everything's going to taste

1:03:111:03:14

like the sea. We're going to end up with that flavour.

1:03:141:03:17

Right, the mushrooms are going in. I've sweated that for a little bit.

1:03:171:03:20

I'm just going to roast these scallops and we're going to

1:03:201:03:22

pop them in the oven for about a minute, minute and a half,

1:03:221:03:25

-just to let them cook through a little bit more.

-These are massive.

1:03:251:03:28

Absolutely stunning.

1:03:281:03:29

So then we just sweat that, add the water in, 20 minutes,

1:03:291:03:33

and then after 20 minutes we'll put the herbs in,

1:03:331:03:35

-let it cool down.

-And that's what we end up with, right.

1:03:351:03:38

So that's done for you, anyway.

1:03:381:03:40

Pop these in. We're going to use the same pan here.

1:03:401:03:43

-I'll take those...

-Thank you.

1:03:431:03:45

So a hot oven.

1:03:451:03:47

Now...

1:03:471:03:49

-Right, off you go.

-We got some lovely carpet clams going in.

1:03:491:03:53

Just open them a little bit. Lots of garlic.

1:03:541:03:57

This is forming the base of our broth.

1:04:001:04:02

And we're going to use the vegetable stock.

1:04:021:04:04

So where does the inspiration...

1:04:071:04:09

The most famous dish probably there is that...the mandarin.

1:04:091:04:12

Yeah, the meat fruit. They come from various...

1:04:121:04:17

You never know when they're going to come.

1:04:171:04:19

You can read lots and lots of information but you never know when

1:04:191:04:24

the idea's going to come and how you kind of use that idea,

1:04:241:04:27

going forward.

1:04:271:04:29

So we've got rock samphire and marsh samphire going in.

1:04:291:04:32

We're just going to steam it all together.

1:04:321:04:34

And then what makes it the frumenty

1:04:341:04:36

is the fruit and the cracked wheat or barley.

1:04:361:04:39

You just straightaway put that in. I'll just show you the difference.

1:04:391:04:41

-That one is the rock samphire.

-Yeah.

1:04:411:04:45

Which you'll probably see on there.

1:04:451:04:49

-Which is grown on the rocks.

-On the rocks.

-Uses the spray to...

1:04:491:04:53

to feed itself. And then this one is the actual marsh samphire,

1:04:531:04:56

so the two look very different.

1:04:561:04:58

-You'll buy this one from the shops...

-Yeah.

1:04:581:05:01

-That one's more readily available.

-This one's rarer.

1:05:011:05:03

Different texture, different flavour.

1:05:031:05:06

-Chop some seaweed.

-Have you ever tried...

1:05:061:05:09

That one's the rock samphire.

1:05:091:05:11

And then that one's the marsh samphire. Slightly thicker.

1:05:111:05:13

Generally the marsh samphire that you'll buy in the shops nowadays.

1:05:131:05:17

Right, what have we got in here?

1:05:171:05:19

We're not going to cook this too much,

1:05:191:05:21

just to open the clams and soften the samphire down.

1:05:211:05:24

We're going to pop the chopped seaweed in.

1:05:241:05:28

So this is pickled so you've got really nice acidity in here as well.

1:05:281:05:31

Going to use some of the pickle juice.

1:05:311:05:35

What do you reckon?

1:05:351:05:37

-Salty?

-Yeah, you can taste the sea in the...

1:05:371:05:39

-I can't remember which one...

-That one's the marsh one. Quite unusual.

1:05:391:05:42

Yeah.

1:05:421:05:44

30 seconds. Check the scallops.

1:05:441:05:48

Scallops have had about a minute.

1:05:481:05:50

If anybody comes to London,

1:05:561:05:58

your kitchen is on display in the restaurant when you walk in,

1:05:581:06:02

with the most impressive chargrilled...pineapple...

1:06:021:06:08

roasting machine, whatever it's called. What do you call it?

1:06:081:06:11

It's a giant spit-roast, so with a lot of open flame,

1:06:111:06:14

a really old sort of gearing system and then what you would

1:06:141:06:17

-expect to see in every kitchen is pineapples roasting.

-Yeah.

1:06:171:06:20

It's a little bit Alice In Wonderland but it does

1:06:201:06:24

actually taste amazing.

1:06:241:06:25

Got some coriander there, some there.

1:06:251:06:28

Think we can almost assemble our dish.

1:06:281:06:31

We're going to pop these...

1:06:311:06:33

soaked onions, just to take a bit of rawness away.

1:06:331:06:36

Everything is quite fresh here.

1:06:361:06:39

-In it goes.

-So this is an adaptation of what you serve in the restaurant?

1:06:391:06:42

-This is a home version. We haven't got three days to cook.

-Right.

1:06:421:06:46

At home, 30 minutes. Well, probably eight minutes.

1:06:461:06:49

Cos isn't it a smoked sort of puree that you put into here or something?

1:06:491:06:52

Well, it's quite smoky cos even when you open the clams like

1:06:521:06:56

this, you end with that sort of smoky, clammy...

1:06:561:07:00

You got a little bit of white soy, you got seaweed,

1:07:001:07:03

then we got the lemon as well.

1:07:031:07:05

So if you could drain a little bit of that red seaweed there.

1:07:051:07:08

-Yeah, I can do.

-Going to grate that into the dish as well.

-Yeah.

1:07:081:07:11

Just be really careful not to overcook the clams.

1:07:131:07:16

And then this lovely sort of juice.

1:07:201:07:23

You've got the barely in there as well,

1:07:231:07:25

so this could be a main course. Could be a starter.

1:07:251:07:27

And the idea of putting the onions in is to take the rawness off...

1:07:291:07:33

Yeah, just to wash a little bit of rawness away.

1:07:331:07:36

-And then we'll just scatter those...

-Serious scallops.

-Lovely scallops.

1:07:361:07:39

Absolutely beautiful. We'll just put another clam in there.

1:07:391:07:43

And then a little bit of seaweed.

1:07:431:07:47

-And then we got the lemon.

-So that's pickled lemon?

1:07:471:07:49

Just a little bit of pickled lemon.

1:07:491:07:51

You could use the same pickle recipe for this.

1:07:511:07:53

-Happy with that?

-Yeah.

-Remind us what it is again.

1:07:551:07:58

We've got scallop frumenty with barley, two types of samphire,

1:07:581:08:01

-clam and lemon seaweed broth.

-Looks pretty good to me.

1:08:011:08:05

Lovely.

1:08:101:08:12

-Right, you get to try scallops for breakfast!

-Looks incredible.

1:08:121:08:15

Dive in to that.

1:08:151:08:17

Certainly the biggest scallops we've had on the show. Try that.

1:08:171:08:21

Dive in. Looks impressive.

1:08:211:08:23

-But simple.

-Yeah, it should taste of the sea.

1:08:231:08:26

You've got good acidity, smoky clams and the broth you're

1:08:261:08:29

collecting all the juices from the clams.

1:08:291:08:32

And that lovely vegetable stock that you made.

1:08:321:08:34

And you can buy that seaweed.

1:08:341:08:35

-Yeah, you can buy it in health stores or online.

-Yeah, exactly.

1:08:351:08:40

-A little bit goes a long way, don't forget.

-Good?

1:08:401:08:44

-I'd definitely choose that.

-Right!

1:08:441:08:46

Superb scallops from a superb chef there.

1:08:511:08:54

Now time for the omelette challenge and a chance to see

1:08:541:08:57

a three-egg omelette cooked by what is now

1:08:571:08:59

a total of nine Michelin stars for James' 40th.

1:08:591:09:03

Right, let's get down to business.

1:09:041:09:05

It's the omelette challenge, of course.

1:09:051:09:07

Now, we've got our camping gas stove over here,

1:09:071:09:09

so one of you has got to cook on it.

1:09:091:09:10

So who would like to draw an asparagus tip?

1:09:101:09:13

The shortest one gets it.

1:09:131:09:15

Youngest first.

1:09:151:09:16

-That's a fix.

-You moved that!

-Short asparagus!

-That's a fix.

1:09:171:09:21

I did that on purpose. I got him back. Right, the usual rules apply.

1:09:211:09:24

It's got to be a three-egg omelette cooked as fast as you can.

1:09:241:09:27

Although I think this is going to be a disaster.

1:09:271:09:29

-A little bit different.

-Are you ready?

-Yeah.

1:09:291:09:31

Three-egg omelette by seven Michelin stars.

1:09:311:09:33

Are you ready? Three, two, one, go.

1:09:331:09:35

Oh, no.

1:09:501:09:52

-No.

-I could be on a campsite!

1:09:521:09:54

GONG

1:09:541:09:56

-There we go. Scrambled, that's scrambled for you.

-That's all right.

1:09:561:09:59

GONG

1:09:591:10:01

-LAUGHS:

-Campsite!

-Campsite omelette.

-All right.

1:10:011:10:04

It's the three-star that makes the difference, you see - look.

1:10:041:10:07

This is where we're going wrong - you know that? Look.

1:10:071:10:10

GONG

1:10:201:10:21

That looks pretty good to me. Pretty good to me.

1:10:211:10:24

Should I have a taste of these?

1:10:241:10:26

Oh, that's made all the difference, Nathan, there.

1:10:271:10:29

-It's a garnish for you.

-Let's have a bit of that.

1:10:291:10:32

-It's hardly a three-egg omelette, is it, really?

-I missed one.

1:10:321:10:34

It went in there, though.

1:10:341:10:36

And this one over here.

1:10:371:10:38

All good, but none of you were quicker,

1:10:411:10:43

so none of you are going on the board.

1:10:431:10:44

But it was still decent enough - good to watch, anyway.

1:10:441:10:47

Three great chefs, but not one of them made it onto the board.

1:10:511:10:54

Anyway, up next is Paul Rankin who is cooking a dish

1:10:541:10:56

using only British produce.

1:10:561:10:58

Well, obviously except the lemon.

1:10:581:11:01

-It's Paul Rankin. Welcome back.

-Lovely to be here.

-Welcome back.

1:11:011:11:04

-I love it every time you're on.

-A rose veal chop.

1:11:041:11:07

Check that out. That's a great British product.

1:11:071:11:09

We're going to be cooking it up

1:11:091:11:11

with some beautiful summer vegetables.

1:11:111:11:13

We've got some romaine lettuce, some broad beans, some peas,

1:11:131:11:16

some scallions, or spring onions.

1:11:161:11:17

This is just like your garden at the moment.

1:11:171:11:19

-It's Jersey Royals...

-Wonderful.

-with scallion and bacon,

1:11:191:11:22

some herbs, some butter.

1:11:221:11:24

So all of this...

1:11:241:11:25

Take away the lemon - all of this is British.

1:11:251:11:27

-All of it?

-Yeah.

-There you go.

1:11:271:11:29

First of all, you're going to get the veal out.

1:11:291:11:31

-I'm going to, then, take the broad beans.

-OK.

1:11:311:11:33

This is a veal chop,

1:11:331:11:34

and rose veal chop, this particular cut,

1:11:341:11:40

it's kind of as the sirloin goes into the rib,

1:11:401:11:43

so it's part of the rib roast and you get chops all the way down.

1:11:431:11:47

Now, rose veal is sort of humanely reared veal.

1:11:471:11:52

Cos you'll get a lot of people watching this going, "Veal..."

1:11:521:11:55

Still got that mentality of what it was ten years ago.

1:11:551:11:57

Yeah, it's sort of a weird thing.

1:11:571:11:59

-So, basically, what it is, it's young beef.

-Yeah.

1:11:591:12:03

It's... It's young beef.

1:12:031:12:06

And we should be eating more of it, I've heard.

1:12:061:12:08

It kind of supports the dairy industry anyway.

1:12:081:12:10

There's a lot of calves that come out of the industry

1:12:101:12:13

and they just get culled, so we should be eating them, perhaps.

1:12:131:12:15

These will get culled, or they get shipped off to Holland

1:12:151:12:18

to get reared in crates.

1:12:181:12:19

The rose veal, they're farmed in barns,

1:12:191:12:22

about eight to ten in the barn.

1:12:221:12:24

They get to roam about and do whatever they want,

1:12:241:12:26

frolic, dah-dah-dah,

1:12:261:12:28

and then, it gives a slightly darker colour,

1:12:281:12:31

but it's still got that lovely texture.

1:12:311:12:33

So lots of salt and pepper on it,

1:12:331:12:35

it's wonderful on a barbecue, but I'm just cooking it

1:12:351:12:38

-with a little bit of light olive oil and butter.

-Yeah. OK.

1:12:381:12:41

Just going to dice up a little bit of my bacon from my potatoes.

1:12:411:12:44

Broad beans - you want these podding and then podding again.

1:12:441:12:47

So these have been podded once,

1:12:471:12:48

but you're going to want them podding again.

1:12:481:12:50

Now, we don't have to blanch them and shell them,

1:12:501:12:53

but I do love that and it adds a real bit of colour to this dish.

1:12:531:12:57

-So, the bacon is going in there for the...potatoes...

-Sorry. Yeah.

1:12:571:13:04

So you've just chopped the bacon up for there.

1:13:041:13:06

Now, this veal...

1:13:061:13:08

I say, you bump into you, man, it gives you a real shake, you know?

1:13:081:13:11

He's a big boy. I'm a boney guy.

1:13:111:13:13

Um... Say it again - what were we talking about?

1:13:141:13:17

This, you're just going to seal it to add some colour?

1:13:171:13:19

Yeah, we want some really nice caramelisation on this.

1:13:191:13:22

It's basically like cooking a steak, you know?

1:13:221:13:24

As I said, it's wonderful on the barbecue as well.

1:13:241:13:26

Actually, we're going to get the... the lettuce and peas on first.

1:13:261:13:32

Get those ready.

1:13:321:13:34

So with the lettuce,

1:13:341:13:35

I love to take the sort of sweet heart of the lettuce, you know?

1:13:351:13:39

The top of the leaves can sometimes be a little bit bitter. Yeah?

1:13:391:13:42

Do you know an interesting fact about broad beans,

1:13:421:13:44

that links you together as well?

1:13:441:13:47

Is that broad beans -

1:13:471:13:48

you're supposed to give these to people when they get married.

1:13:481:13:51

-Are you serious?

-It means... Ensure the birth of a baby son.

1:13:511:13:54

-I'm going to send...

-You've got about a dozen, haven't you?

1:13:541:13:58

Yeah!

1:13:581:14:00

-I'm going to send everyone a broad bean...

-Broad beans, you see!

1:14:001:14:03

-There you go.

-They're also delicious.

-Yeah.

1:14:031:14:05

But that shelling business, that's quite a hassle, isn't it?

1:14:051:14:08

They are, they are delicious. Bang in season at the moment.

1:14:081:14:11

My garden is full of these, and full of peas as well.

1:14:111:14:14

But also, another great thing out there,

1:14:141:14:16

they call them habitas fritas, which...

1:14:161:14:18

-The Spanish actually deep-fry these.

-Oh, yeah!

1:14:181:14:21

And serve with salt, don't they? A bit like we do peanuts.

1:14:211:14:23

-But they're absolutely delicious.

-Are they the slightly dried ones?

1:14:231:14:26

-Yeah, but they're friend and roasted broad beans.

-Very good.

1:14:261:14:29

So need a bit more heat on this veal, actually.

1:14:291:14:32

So once it's nice and brown, we're going to pop it in the oven.

1:14:321:14:36

Yeah.

1:14:361:14:38

And it'll take about eight minutes, or, you know,

1:14:381:14:41

you can cook it out on top of the stove.

1:14:411:14:43

A chop that size will take a good five minutes either side.

1:14:431:14:46

That's about 400 - about 200 degrees centigrade.

1:14:461:14:48

-Classically, it's served pink.

-There you go. So...

1:14:481:14:52

-You didn't really put me on that website, did you?

-Yeah, I did.

1:14:521:14:56

-You did not.

-I bigged you up, yeah.

-You won't be sorry.

1:14:561:14:58

-Jeanne will be happy - don't worry.

-She'll love you for that, James!

1:14:581:15:01

She'll go, "That James Martin, I never trusted him.

1:15:011:15:03

"I never trusted him."

1:15:031:15:05

The worst thing is - I put your mobile phone number on it. Joking.

1:15:051:15:08

Right, here we go with the peas.

1:15:081:15:09

This is a nice little broth you're going to serve this with.

1:15:091:15:12

Well, it's kind of like a broth.

1:15:121:15:14

Adding a little bit of chicken stock.

1:15:141:15:16

And then in goes a little bit of butter.

1:15:171:15:19

So then in goes the veg.

1:15:191:15:21

There you go.

1:15:221:15:24

Do you want me to drain out this...?

1:15:241:15:26

There you go. The lettuce?

1:15:261:15:29

Just whack that in there. Get the broad beans in here, James.

1:15:291:15:32

There's the broad beans.

1:15:321:15:33

You can see, once they've been podded, it goes beautiful.

1:15:331:15:35

-Look how fresh and ripe this is!

-Green colour!

-This is...

1:15:351:15:38

Fantastic green colour. There you go.

1:15:381:15:41

Now, there is really something special about this time of year.

1:15:411:15:45

You know, from a chef's point of view, it's so exciting.

1:15:451:15:49

You've got all this stuff coming on board. You've got the...

1:15:491:15:53

You're not having to buy stuff from abroad, are you?

1:15:531:15:55

You've got so many great ingredients in the UK.

1:15:551:15:57

You can utilise so many different flavours.

1:15:571:15:59

..the first peas, the first broad beans, I mean,

1:15:591:16:01

from a chef's point of view, Arthur, that's exciting for us.

1:16:011:16:04

They're kind of the first things to land on your doorstep, really,

1:16:041:16:07

cos you think spring's here, but nothing's really arrived yet.

1:16:071:16:10

But when summer hits it's... Yeah.

1:16:101:16:12

People talk a lot about the first strawberries and things like that,

1:16:121:16:15

but for me, I kind of love the whole broad beans.

1:16:151:16:20

OK, quite interesting little potatoes here.

1:16:201:16:23

So, a little technique.

1:16:231:16:24

-These are Jersey Royals.

-Jersey Royals.

1:16:241:16:26

You've got long left in the season of Jersey Royals.

1:16:261:16:28

This is a little bit chef-y.

1:16:281:16:30

I just gently crush them so that they keep their shape.

1:16:301:16:33

What this does, it allows the butter to go into the potato

1:16:331:16:37

and kind of flavour it without sort of turning it into a great big...

1:16:371:16:40

Remember the first time - I think it was in the mid-90s -

1:16:401:16:42

when someone put crushed potatoes on their menu. Remember?

1:16:421:16:45

I couldn't believe it. Crushed potatoes?

1:16:451:16:47

My potatoes look a bit like that cos I always cook them for

1:16:471:16:50

too long cos I'm drinking too much wine.

1:16:501:16:51

There you go - you've gone too chef-y.

1:16:511:16:53

I'm like, "Oh, God!"

1:16:531:16:55

And we're making up this lovely, simple herb butter.

1:16:551:16:58

Let's not put too much...

1:16:581:17:00

-ARTHUR:

-You didn't cook that bacon, then?

1:17:001:17:03

-No, no, it's going to be cooked now.

-Yeah.

1:17:031:17:06

Cos what I'm going to do here, this is a little sort of...

1:17:061:17:09

It's something good to do at home.

1:17:111:17:12

I think this works really well, cos you can have this all prepped up

1:17:121:17:15

and then you pop it in the microwave for a couple of minutes.

1:17:151:17:18

-Do you want me to put it there?

-Are you going to do that?

1:17:181:17:20

What I'm always saying to the young chefs at the restaurant -

1:17:201:17:23

"Taste, taste, taste all the time as you're cooking." Check...

1:17:231:17:26

Check your seasoning.

1:17:271:17:29

I'm such a great chef. That is so delicious.

1:17:291:17:31

LAUGHTER

1:17:311:17:34

Right, the herb butter has got - what? Tarragon,

1:17:341:17:37

a little bit of chervil, parsley, a bit of chives in there,

1:17:371:17:40

all that kind of stuff?

1:17:401:17:41

This is basically a French dish, you know?

1:17:411:17:44

No, no, it's a British dish,

1:17:441:17:45

but it's a French technique, French technique.

1:17:451:17:48

And this is what they call fines herbes in...in France.

1:17:481:17:53

-Arthur, you were trained...

-Beurre fines herbes.

1:17:531:17:55

And it's lovely. It's still lovely, isn't it?

1:17:551:17:58

It's called parsley butter where I come from.

1:17:581:18:00

LAUGHTER

1:18:001:18:02

See, now, cooking lettuce, am I the only one that...?

1:18:021:18:05

Do you two think that's a bit weird, cooking lettuce?

1:18:051:18:07

-Yeah.

-Just a little bit.

1:18:071:18:09

I tell you, that would be lovely with a bit of goat's cheese on it.

1:18:091:18:13

It would be delicious. I'm serious!

1:18:131:18:16

Now we'll go back to raw lettuce with some tomato, cucumbers...

1:18:161:18:20

There you go - that's your bacon.

1:18:201:18:22

It's cooked. From the microwave. There you go.

1:18:221:18:24

Just warms up, you get that beautiful scallion flavour in there.

1:18:241:18:26

I think I need a touch of salt.

1:18:261:18:28

I can't remember if I've seasoned it or not.

1:18:281:18:30

And then we just put three of those onto the plate.

1:18:301:18:33

Oh... It doesn't really matter.

1:18:331:18:35

They're sort of crushed potatoes anyway.

1:18:351:18:37

On it goes. We've got our beautiful...

1:18:381:18:40

-It is the essence of summer, that.

-Look at this chop. Look at that.

1:18:401:18:44

Yeah.

1:18:441:18:46

I mean, I'd almost say it's manly food, but it's not.

1:18:461:18:49

It's just really beautifully delicious food.

1:18:491:18:52

I'll clear up after you. There you go.

1:18:521:18:54

And a little bit of the pan juices.

1:18:541:18:56

And finally, you've got the little bit of butter on the top.

1:18:581:19:00

Oh, with a little bit of butter.

1:19:001:19:01

And you're doing just the right thing.

1:19:011:19:03

I've got the...dropsies here.

1:19:031:19:06

Just take a little bit off.

1:19:061:19:09

That melted over the top.

1:19:091:19:10

So, while that's melting, remind us what that is again.

1:19:101:19:13

That's my rose veal chop with lemon and herb butter,

1:19:131:19:18

braised summer vegetables and crushed potatoes.

1:19:181:19:20

It looks delicious.

1:19:201:19:22

It really is the essence of British cooking.

1:19:271:19:30

Right, over here. Dive in.

1:19:301:19:32

-Now, are you a big fan of veal, or what?

-Well, I... Sort of.

1:19:321:19:37

The same sort of "sit on the fence", that kind of stuff.

1:19:371:19:39

Yeah, I've never been completely convinced...

1:19:391:19:42

There are some amazing suppliers producing veal now in the UK.

1:19:421:19:45

It's quite an exciting time, I think,

1:19:451:19:49

and this is a very good product.

1:19:491:19:51

Texturally, it's lighter than beef and it's a little bit more tender.

1:19:511:19:54

And it's also got lower fat as well cos it's not as old.

1:19:541:19:58

-You've just taken a big chunk of fat there.

-I know...

1:19:581:20:00

-ARTHUR:

-When I heard you were cooking it earlier on,

1:20:001:20:02

I've been waiting to taste it all morning.

1:20:021:20:04

To me, it's something, you know, you just want to eat.

1:20:041:20:08

This is a hungry man's kind of dish. Or a hungry girl's type of dish.

1:20:081:20:12

-Mm!

-It's delicious, isn't it?

1:20:121:20:14

Another great summer dish there,

1:20:181:20:20

and we really should be eating more roast veal in this country,

1:20:201:20:23

so if you haven't already done so, give it a try.

1:20:231:20:26

Now, when Patsy Palmer came to the studio to face

1:20:261:20:28

her food heaven or food hell, she was striving for strawberries,

1:20:281:20:31

but she was hoping to give smoked salmon the slip.

1:20:311:20:34

So let's see what she actually got.

1:20:341:20:36

Right, it's time to find out whether you sent Patsy to

1:20:361:20:39

either food heaven of food hell.

1:20:391:20:40

Patsy, to remind you, your version of food heaven

1:20:401:20:42

would be these fantastic...

1:20:421:20:43

Which is everybody's favourite ingredient, I think -

1:20:431:20:46

the lovely strawberries.

1:20:461:20:47

Bang in season at the moment,

1:20:471:20:49

And that could be transformed into a mille-feuille using puff pastry...

1:20:491:20:52

-Mm!

-..cream, vanilla, simple little strawberry sauce to go with it.

1:20:521:20:57

Kind of like the strawberry and cream twist. Classic French dish.

1:20:571:21:00

Alternatively, the dreaded food hell, over here.

1:21:001:21:03

Smoked salmon...

1:21:031:21:05

which is beautiful. Thinly sliced, topped with a tart

1:21:051:21:08

made with watercress. We've got some watercress pesto that we're

1:21:081:21:11

going to make. Creme fraiche, little bit of egg yolk,

1:21:111:21:13

we've got some walnuts in there, a lovely little watercress salad.

1:21:131:21:16

-Spinach is going to go in the bottom as well.

-OK.

1:21:161:21:19

How do you think the viewers have voted?

1:21:191:21:21

Maybe the strawberries after the cake, seeing the cake.

1:21:211:21:23

Maybe the strawberries.

1:21:231:21:25

56% of the vote - quite a tight one today -

1:21:251:21:29

went with...

1:21:291:21:30

your expression on the face when you tried that pigeon for the

1:21:301:21:33

first time. They want it again, they want to see you eat salmon.

1:21:331:21:36

Sorry about that! Because I thought everybody would choose...

1:21:361:21:39

I know, I'll probably like it. After this morning.

1:21:391:21:41

-Must be the weather, must be the weather.

-Oh, well.

1:21:411:21:43

We can lose our strawberries there. Now, for this little tartlet,

1:21:431:21:46

-I'm going to show you... We're going to use the puff pastry anyway.

-OK.

1:21:461:21:49

But what I'm going to do, this is all butter puff pastry.

1:21:491:21:51

Now, you need to get all-butter puff pastry nowadays.

1:21:511:21:53

It's a much better flavour, really nice texture.

1:21:531:21:55

So if you can make me the filling. We've got some creme fraiche, egg yolk.

1:21:551:21:58

-Shall I wilt this?

-Yeah, wilt that and let it go cold. That'll be it.

1:21:581:22:01

Got an egg yolk as well you can put in there.

1:22:011:22:03

Right, I'm going to make my little tartlet here.

1:22:031:22:05

-Now, I'm going to make a decent-sized one.

-I don't mind.

1:22:051:22:07

I honestly don't mind after what I've eaten this morning.

1:22:071:22:10

You grab your puff pastry, which I've got here.

1:22:101:22:12

We can lose that to one side.

1:22:121:22:14

Now, what we can do... When I was at college, when he came to judge

1:22:141:22:18

my end of year at college, we were always...

1:22:181:22:20

-You've come a long way since then, haven't you, eh?

-Yeah.

1:22:201:22:23

About 250 miles.

1:22:231:22:24

Yeah, thanks very much!

1:22:241:22:26

So we've got our puff pastry here.

1:22:261:22:27

What you can do is take another bit of puff pastry and place it

1:22:271:22:30

on the top. But the best way to do that, is just grab a knife...

1:22:301:22:33

And then with your finger, just press it into the pastry, like that.

1:22:331:22:37

And all you're doing, your finger is a little gauge to see how thick

1:22:371:22:41

you want the frame.

1:22:411:22:42

-Woodworkers used to do it like that, didn't they?

-Did they?

1:22:421:22:44

Yeah, when they're cutting a piece of wood,

1:22:441:22:46

-they mark it like that, don't they?

-Used to.

1:22:461:22:48

See, I know about these things.

1:22:481:22:50

Before rulers were invented and all that kind of stuff.

1:22:501:22:52

-Chalk lines.

-Exactly!

-Do you like nutmeg?

-Mmm.

1:22:521:22:55

We'll give you plenty of nutmeg, then.

1:22:551:22:57

He was in a quarry when he was a kid.

1:22:571:22:59

Right, so we've got our puff pastry.

1:22:591:23:00

What we need to do now is just leave this to rest

1:23:001:23:03

and then bake it in the oven.

1:23:031:23:04

-So leave it to rest in the fridge.

-Yeah.

-Bake it in the oven.

1:23:041:23:07

-There you are, chef.

-There we go.

1:23:071:23:10

Brian's wilting me spinach. Yeah, if you can thinly slice me this.

1:23:101:23:13

Now, this stuff is fantastic.

1:23:131:23:16

Give us a taste, Chef.

1:23:161:23:17

This comes... It's a company called Kerachers.

1:23:171:23:20

They're based up near Perth, in Scotland, and it is delicious.

1:23:201:23:25

But there's two different ways of curing smoked salmon.

1:23:251:23:29

There's a wet cure, which is traditional, a lot of people do now,

1:23:291:23:32

or there's a dry cure, which is like a rub they put on it.

1:23:321:23:35

And there's actually two ways to cook it.

1:23:351:23:38

Or, rather, to smoke it.

1:23:381:23:40

There's a cold smoke, you end up with smoked salmon like this,

1:23:401:23:42

which you're more familiar with, or there's a hot smoke.

1:23:421:23:45

Takes a small amount of time, which cooks the salmon while it's cooking.

1:23:451:23:48

Different texture, different flavour. But I think that tastes fantastic.

1:23:481:23:51

-I won't let you taste it at this point, but try it.

-Thank you, Chef.

1:23:511:23:54

-Good man.

-Could you do me a few more slices of that?

-Absolutely.

1:23:541:23:56

-That would be great.

-You should see if she can taste it

1:23:561:23:58

-just as it is.

-Not yet, not yet, not yet.

1:23:581:24:00

Right, we've got in here... Have you seasoned this? Nope.

1:24:001:24:03

-No.

-Bit of seasoning.

1:24:031:24:04

It's a bit like his omelette, you see.

1:24:041:24:07

-I put seasoning in my omelette.

-I know, I know.

1:24:071:24:09

Well, if you want me to season it, I can get a touch of soy for the salt.

1:24:091:24:12

Soy. There you go. So, a little bit of this.

1:24:121:24:14

-How we doing, Brian?

-Ready.

1:24:141:24:16

Straight into there.

1:24:161:24:17

Now, for our little tartlet here...

1:24:171:24:20

-Where are the tongs? There we go.

-Smells delicious.

1:24:201:24:23

So we've got our spinach. If you can make me a little salad, Brian,

1:24:231:24:26

with the watercress and everything else, that'd be great.

1:24:261:24:28

-Yeah, these nuts?

-Yeah, nuts, watercress, little bit of dressing.

1:24:281:24:31

That'd be great. So in we go with the spinach.

1:24:311:24:34

Over the top.

1:24:341:24:35

Right, how we doing, Nick? Few slices of salmon.

1:24:351:24:38

-It's all ready to go.

-When you cook salmon, it just takes on

1:24:381:24:40

a whole different flavour.

1:24:401:24:42

So what we're going to do now is just grab our salmon, that's it.

1:24:421:24:44

Grab these nice pieces of smoked salmon.

1:24:441:24:46

Cos you can chargrill this stuff, you can pan-fry it.

1:24:461:24:51

It just takes a whole different flavour.

1:24:511:24:53

-It is delicious, that.

-It's good, isn't it?

1:24:531:24:55

-It's not too strong, is it?

-I like the cold smoked salmon.

1:24:551:24:58

Finish in the oven. Straight in.

1:24:581:25:00

That's going to cook. And I thought we'd do that with a little bit

1:25:001:25:03

of watercress pesto.

1:25:031:25:04

All right. Now, watercress, simple.

1:25:041:25:07

-More like an oil, really. Yeah, have you got some?

-Yep.

-Thanks very much.

1:25:071:25:10

-Couple of chops.

-Bit more, actually - use it all.

1:25:101:25:12

There you go. In we go with the watercress.

1:25:121:25:14

Instead of using pine nuts, we're going to use a few walnuts,

1:25:141:25:16

cos we're going to incorporate that with the salad.

1:25:161:25:19

Did you take the rubber band off? I know Brian.

1:25:211:25:23

Just checking! Just 35 years to work that one out.

1:25:271:25:31

Exactly. Here you go. Right, so plenty of salt.

1:25:311:25:34

Bit of black pepper, because obviously it's quite

1:25:341:25:36

peppery anyway. And then some oil.

1:25:361:25:38

I'm just going to give this a quick blitz up.

1:25:391:25:42

-Yeah, yeah.

-And it's quite strong, watercress.

1:25:421:25:46

Quick blitz. You'll end up with a real rich pesto.

1:25:461:25:49

If you want to change the colour of this, you can make it

1:25:491:25:52

about two, three hours beforehand and it'll change, it'll go

1:25:521:25:55

much greener. You can blanch the watercress as well.

1:25:551:25:59

But this is fantastic. If you just don't want to eat...

1:25:591:26:01

I know you're not a great lover of smoked salmon, but salmon...

1:26:011:26:04

I'm sure I will be in a minute.

1:26:041:26:05

But salmon, in general, it's just superb.

1:26:051:26:07

Yeah, I like salmon, but just not that.

1:26:071:26:09

I'll just show you the texture of that.

1:26:091:26:11

-Absolutely.

-That's what we're looking for.

1:26:111:26:13

It's kind of like a basil texture.

1:26:131:26:16

If you want to make it go darker, just blanch the leaves.

1:26:161:26:18

-All pesto is made with watercress, is it?

-No, pesto's made with basil.

1:26:181:26:21

-Oh, right, OK.

-Basil!

-Basil!

-Basil!

1:26:211:26:24

So that's that. We've got our salmon in there, watercress.

1:26:241:26:27

What you got in here?

1:26:271:26:28

Watercress, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.

1:26:281:26:30

That's it. Simple little salad, walnuts in there.

1:26:301:26:33

Nice little dish. Now this...

1:26:331:26:34

You can see, it's cooked.

1:26:371:26:39

Turn that off. If I lift that off.

1:26:401:26:43

-And it cooks the salmon.

-It looks the same.

1:26:431:26:47

-Delicious.

-That's the problem I've got with it.

1:26:481:26:50

-What? The problem you've got with it, looks the same?

-Yeah.

1:26:501:26:53

-It's just...

-But look, it's gone all pinky. It's just kind of like...

1:26:531:26:55

-He's going to cover it up now, anyway.

-Good. Hide it,

1:26:551:26:58

-like the Brussels in the mash.

-Yeah, hide it.

1:26:581:27:01

Little bit of the old watercress pesto.

1:27:011:27:03

Bit of that.

1:27:041:27:05

And then some of the old salad.

1:27:051:27:07

On the top.

1:27:101:27:11

See, that...

1:27:111:27:13

Be honest, it's not bad that, is it?

1:27:131:27:15

It looks fabulous.

1:27:151:27:16

Grab the irons.

1:27:161:27:18

Dive into that.

1:27:181:27:20

-Tell us what you think.

-OK.

-And taste the salmon!

1:27:201:27:22

-Yeah, I will, no, no.

-You've not convinced me...

1:27:221:27:24

-No, not really, but I'll try it.

-Taste a bit with that.

1:27:241:27:27

-Let me take a good bit of the salmon.

-Good girl.

1:27:291:27:31

Good bit of salmon.

1:27:311:27:33

-You can do it, Patsy, come on.

-Yeah, I can do it.

1:27:331:27:35

Totally different texture when it's heated up, isn't it?

1:27:351:27:37

-Yeah, totally different. Pan-fry it, chargrill it, it's wonderful.

-Yeah.

1:27:371:27:40

-I know that I'm just going to go, "Mmm!"

-Go on, then.

1:27:401:27:43

Say something.

1:27:491:27:50

-Delicious.

-It's nice.

1:27:501:27:52

It's delicious, that.

1:27:531:27:54

You probably won't get to eat any of this. Brian.

1:27:541:27:58

-Do you want some wine?

-It could grow on me.

1:27:581:28:01

-I might just have one.

-There you go. Dive into that.

1:28:011:28:03

-What do you reckon?

-I think that's nice, cos it's not over smoked.

1:28:041:28:07

-It is nice.

-The pastry's lovely.

1:28:071:28:09

But cooking the salmon just changes it.

1:28:091:28:11

Cooking the salmon changes it so, so much.

1:28:111:28:13

If you put a little bit of filo in it, just thinly sliced filo,

1:28:131:28:17

you could change the base again.

1:28:171:28:20

-Yeah. Thanks for that.

-That wine's big.

1:28:201:28:22

-I'm very grateful that you've cooked that.

-Very nice.

1:28:241:28:27

-Gone to the trouble.

-Wine's excellent. 5.99.

1:28:271:28:29

-So you can say at least you've tasted it.

-Exactly, yeah.

1:28:291:28:32

It's OK, but it's really never been my kind of...

1:28:321:28:34

-You're not too convinced on the smoked salmon.

-No, not really,

1:28:341:28:37

-but thank you very much.

-Great, that's no problem.

1:28:371:28:39

Looks absolutely fabulous.

1:28:391:28:41

I'm not convinced she liked that, but there we go.

1:28:451:28:47

It happens. Anyway, that's it for this instalment of Best Bites.

1:28:471:28:50

I hope you've enjoyed delving into the Saturday Kitchen store cupboard.

1:28:501:28:53

Thanks for watching and have a fantastic week.

1:28:531:28:56

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