01/05/2016 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites


01/05/2016

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Transcript


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Good morning. There's a mouth-watering menu

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lined up for you today, so sit back and enjoy the show.

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This is Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

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Welcome to the show.

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You won't want to go anywhere as we've got top chefs

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serving magnificent food

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and a handful of hungry celebrity guests too.

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Coming up on today's show,

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Clare Smyth is serving some meaty monkfish with iberico ham.

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Jason Atherton is plating up red mullet with spicy peppers,

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chorizo and black olives.

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He finishes the dish with candied aubergine and aubergine crisps.

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Ben Tish is treating us to a sharing platter

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of roasted salt marsh lamb

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served with crispy artichokes and a wild garlic pesto.

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He marinates the lamb in garlic, mint, lemon zest,

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as well as fresh and dried chillies.

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And Ben Fogle faces his food heaven or food hell.

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Would he get his food heaven -

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a basil sorbet with a blackberry and basil cream tart?

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Or would he get his dreaded food hell -

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smoked pancetta-wrapped watermelon with mozzarella

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served with a watermelon-dressed salad?

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And you can find out what he gets to eat at the end of the show.

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But first up, he's one of my all-time culinary heroes

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with a sensational sea bass dish.

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It's the great Michel Roux.

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-Welcome to the show, Michel Roux.

-Thank you very much.

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What are we cooking, chef?

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Well, steamed fillet of sea bass in green jacket.

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My boys will be texting me now going,

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"I can't believe that." But anyway...

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-So, that's how the fish looks...

-Yes.

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-..before we fillet it, but you know that.

-Exactly.

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This is a line-caught bass.

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-They're slightly bigger than...

-Yeah.

-..the farmed ones.

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The idea is one kilo, one kilo 400,

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-and then you've got a nice little fish to cook.

-OK.

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Or two kilo, but then it's for six or eight people to eat.

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That's going with me on my way back home. There we go.

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-And I've got a nice fillet.

-Yeah.

-But let's go through the ingredients

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-because we know what we're using for the recipe.

-OK.

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So, we've got leeks, obviously.

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-That's magical because it's for the sauce, the coulis.

-Yeah.

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I'm doing a coulis, which is a leek coulis

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with a nice little saffron thread

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because it's more tasty and then the dill.

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And then I need cream and then I've got chicken stock,

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-but it could be vegetable stock if we wanted to.

-OK.

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-But not fish stock for this one?

-No, no fish stock for this one

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-because it's dull, it's boring.

-Yeah.

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-And then I've got spinach leaves to put...

-This is the jacket.

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That's the green jacket for the sea bass. A little beurre.

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-And this is the julienne.

-Can you do the julienne?

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I can do the julienne, yeah.

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So, now I'm going to obviously take the skin...like that.

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There you go. So, you've got to fillet the bass, pin bone it

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-and then basically de-skin it as well, yeah?

-Absolutely.

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And I've been checking if there is any bones

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because what you do normally, obviously,

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you've got to be careful not to have any bones in the middle.

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So, you borrow the tweezers from your young lady...

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-Is there any bones in there?

-No, there is none

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-because you've done it before.

-Exactly.

-You've done it for me.

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-I did it this morning.

-Good, lovely. So, here we are.

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So, that's the sea bass because it takes a bit of time.

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A small fillet like that will take about six minutes.

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Six, seven minutes.

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So, we've got enough for two portion there.

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-That's done. Now the...

-Spinach.

-..spinach should be blanched.

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If you're going to do this at home,

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make sure you buy the big spinach leaves.

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-Yes, it could be lettuce as well...

-Yeah.

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..because lettuce are very delicate

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and it's not a bad idea to use lettuce,

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but spinach is perfect.

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Often, the French wrap lamb and bits and pieces in it.

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Because sometimes you don't find

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those big, large spinach leaves nowadays.

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Those tiny little ones, which are perfect for salad,

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-but not so good for cooking or for vegetable, really.

-Yeah.

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So, here we are.

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Now, when you were last on,

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well, the restaurant, The Waterside, had just closed

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-because of a kitchen refit.

-Yes.

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-Just had it done?

-We closed for three and a half months.

-Yeah.

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50 people on holiday for three and a half months.

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No, no, no, they were not on holiday.

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We were all doing some work, but it was...

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-THEY LAUGH

-You know me.

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Yeah, I know you.

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Nobody goes on holiday.

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Put the oil...

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-Yeah. Thank you very much.

-Goes in there?

-Yeah.

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-So...

-So is there space for me in your new kitchen, then?

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Oh, good Lord, yes. We've got 22 chefs, but I tell you,

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-the kitchen is absolutely superb.

-Is it?

-Absolutely superb.

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They've done...the builder, everyone...

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I mean, the kitchen designer, my son, the chef -

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everyone's done a fantastic job.

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I think they've done a better kitchen than I had.

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I'm very jealous.

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I want to go back in the kitchen. Take me back!

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I'm coming for a night to work, then. Definitely.

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-Are you?

-Yes, exactly.

-OK. I want to be off on that evening!

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THEY LAUGH

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-This is brilliant. There you go. Right.

-Thank you.

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-What do you want doing with the leeks?

-The leeks...

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THEY LAUGH

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It should be a young leek, not the big one like that.

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So, if you can cut it, please.

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-And you want these blanching, yeah?

-Yes, please. Thank you.

-OK.

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Snip it, yes.

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So, the spinach leaf, by the way, must be dry, so I pat it dry.

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But what was unique, just to go back for a minute about the kitchen -

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they've done a fantastic job in three and a half months

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and they were ready on the day we wanted them to be ready.

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-No delay. That's fantastic.

-None?

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-No, not at all.

-Did you use French builders or what?

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-No, British builders.

-THEY LAUGH

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-But you can still find some people...

-Yeah, exactly.

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..who are really doing a fantastic job.

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-So, here we are.

-OK.

-Pat it dry.

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A little salt and pepper very quickly on there.

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-Do you want some pepper, chef?

-Yeah. There we are.

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Pepper. Thank you very much.

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-Very good.

-There you go.

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And then you roll it.

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So, you've got to put them into the little spinach leaf.

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-Into the jackets.

-Into the jacket.

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-And then you want some clingfilm for this?

-Yes, please.

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I'll just put the leeks in the pan.

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And if the stalks are a big too hard and big,

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you cut a bit of the stalk, but that's not the case here.

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So, we've got the leeks in the pan blanching.

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The other leeks are frying away.

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-And then we now are cooking and sweating the other leek.

-OK.

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Have you got the butter there?

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-There's the butter, yeah.

-Yeah.

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Blanching it and as soon as it's blanched,

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and it is blanched now...

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Ooh! We don't want a beurre noisette.

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Just on time.

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-There we go.

-Voila.

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So, you've got to sweat the leek.

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There we are.

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-Thank you.

-I'll do the other one, chef.

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You do that one. Thank you.

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So, wrap it in the clingfilm.

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We've put the salt, the pepper, in the steamer.

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Michel, you can put the clingfilm in the steamer?

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-Yes, you can.

-And it won't melt?

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No, no, it doesn't melt. No, no.

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What you must always remember is taking it out

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-when you put it on the plate.

-THEY LAUGH

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You think, "What's that strange texture?"

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Especially when you're on the television

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because people think that you're getting a bit oldie.

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THEY LAUGH

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-They give you your P45.

-THEY LAUGH

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-Saffron, chef?

-Yes, please.

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There you go.

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Saffron. Saffron, saffron.

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Look at those lovely threads of saffron.

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-Worth a fortune, you know that?

-Worth a fortune, yeah.

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-There you go.

-Chicken stock. Thank you.

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-The cream...

-There's a sink in the back

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-if you want to wash your hands, chef.

-..will go last.

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And now, in fact, the cream should go

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and it's going in that one,

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-which we just started cooking a few minutes before.

-Yeah, exactly.

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-We had to...

-We had to, yeah.

-..because I'm a bit slow.

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-I didn't say anything, chef.

-No, no.

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-Can you switch that on for me?

-Yeah.

-Thank you very much.

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Now that we've finished, we can put it back...

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-Put it on there.

-..in there, good.

-There we go.

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-Move that.

-So, now it's cooking. And we've got that.

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-Now, we need that little bowl there.

-OK.

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So, this is basically just deep-fried

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-so they're nice and crispy.

-Absolutely.

-There you go.

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Now I'm going to snip down it.

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And don't forget that all the recipes cooked in the studio,

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including this one from Michel, are on our website. Go to...

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You can also find the dishes from our previous shows

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on bbc.co.uk/recipes.

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There we go. Right, I'll sort out the little fried bits.

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You talk so quickly that if I was listening to the programme,

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I would have no time to write it down, all those things.

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-You've got to buy the book, I suppose.

-Ah, there you are.

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-That's what you're doing, isn't it? A new book?

-Absolutely right.

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Well, talking about books, my pastry book Sweet And Savoury

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-is doing extremely well in UK.

-Yeah.

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And now it's been, in fact, translated over the last six months

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in seven languages

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and I'm going to New York and Canada to promote it in the next months.

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So, if you want to come on the trip with me...

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-Absolutely. I'm there.

-..and we can sell the book.

-Absolutely.

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-Your book.

-Well, my book's not out in America,

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so we'd have a job, but anyway...

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I'll sign yours, but anyway...

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-So, this is steaming. This doesn't take very long.

-No, no, no.

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-Four, five minutes?

-Five minutes, it'll be ready.

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It's only been there maybe two or three minutes. It'll be fine.

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-I think we'd like an audio book.

-Someone is asking something.

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I said, "Could you do an audio book so we could hear your accent?"

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Cos that would be very nice, wouldn't it?

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Me and Liz are like that, "Please speak!"

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Was that me or Michel?

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-No, that's Michel. Yeah.

-THEY LAUGH

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It's by popular demand. Thank you. Popular demand.

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Michel, camera two, it's all yours.

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-THEY LAUGH

-Oh, God!

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Someone! Come back. Come back.

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I'm very good for timing anyway.

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Right, anyway, we're frying that off.

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-You know, I'm used to 22 chefs, not one.

-Yes, exactly.

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-Right, do you want me to blend this?

-Yes. Can you do that? Thank you.

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-I'm sure you can.

-I can. There you go.

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And then I'm taking that off.

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So, just to recap what's in here, we've got the stock.

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The stock, the leek,

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a little butter to sweat the leek and then just a saffron thread

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-and that's it. Cream to finish.

-No problem.

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Well, I'm just going to blend this.

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James, can I ask, would you ever use a bought chicken stock?

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We can use...

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You can even use water if you want to,

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-but vegetable stock is perfectly all right.

-There we go.

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-But chicken stock is a nice flavour.

-BLENDER WHIRS

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I'm just going to add this slowly to this mixture.

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-OK?

-Yes, perfect.

-There you go, chef.

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-We've got a minute to go.

-Thank you.

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The leeks are nicely cooked.

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-Voila.

-And this, it's not going to a puree.

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You're creating a nice sauce with this, chef.

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-There you go.

-That's it.

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The ladle? You've got the ladle for the sauce?

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-I've got the ladle, yeah.

-Excellent.

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-OK.

-So, give that a quick blitz.

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There you go. It would make a wonderful soup, this.

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Just nice and simple.

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And then we're going to pass this through a sieve.

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Take the little clingfilm off.

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There you go.

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Could you wrap the fish directly in clingfilm with no spinach?

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-I'm sorry?

-Can you wrap the fish with clingfilm with no spinach?

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-Would it melt?

-You can.

-Yeah?

-You can, yes, yes, yes.

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But the way...

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Look, give it a little shine.

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A little pile...of little leek.

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Little angel hair, I call them.

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Angel hair.

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-A bit of salt and pepper, chef?

-Thank you.

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I shouldn't do that, but I've done it. I have salt.

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-Put the pepper, please. Thank you.

-This is white pepper.

-Good.

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-That's white pepper. Perfect. A bit of dill.

-Yeah.

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-And then we put the sauce.

-There's your spoon.

-Thank you, chef.

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Here we are. So, the coulis around.

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Voila.

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And all you've done is brushed those parcels

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-with a touch of clarified butter.

-Voila.

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And then add something there, but I've lost it.

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-I'm sure it doesn't matter.

-What have you lost?

-A little fern.

0:11:320:11:35

You took it, I'm sure, but I'll put a bit more.

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-JAMES LAUGHS

-When I've got something missing...

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I'll find it, chef.

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..I always say my assistant got it, you know?

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-So, remind us what that is again, chef.

-Oh, yes, put that there.

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Steamed fillet of sea bass in green jacket.

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-Simple as that.

-Simple as that. Thank you.

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The man definitely is a legend. Definitely a legend.

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-Right, come on over here. Have a seat, Michel.

-Thank you.

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-There you go.

-Thank you.

-And you get to dive into that.

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Tell us what you think.

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-Oh, my goodness.

-Tell us what you think.

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I'll go on the side, yes.

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You're over here, Michel. I don't know where you're going.

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I was worried you didn't want me to sit next to you any more.

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-THEY LAUGH

-Absolutely stunning.

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-Stunning.

-Sauce is delicious?

-Stunning.

-Guys, dive in.

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But other types of fish you could do instead of using sea bass?

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Erm, yes. Sea bream is perfect and even a small piece.

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But haddock, if you take haddock,

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small pieces because it's hard to cook it.

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And remember, if you're trying that dish at home

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and you can't find large spinach leaves,

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lettuce leaves would work really well too.

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Coming up, I cook pea soup with mint cream

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for comedian Jenny Eclair.

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That's after we get a taste of the Cornish coastline

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with the fabulous Rick Stein.

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RICK STEIN: People that like food that I respect more than anybody

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are those that understand about simplicity in cooking.

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And nothing sums up simplicity,

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pure, delicious simplicity,

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better than just a dish of grilled queens.

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Queens are just a type of small scallop

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and all you have to do is brush them with plenty of butter

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and season them liberally with ground black pepper and salt.

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Then you put them under a hot grill and notice the wonderful smell

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that actually comes from the shells as well as the scallop meat.

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It's like hot beaches, and hot beaches is what it is

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because all beaches are is bust-up shells.

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These are now well and truly cooked.

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And the next thing I'm going to do is to add some seaweed,

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to put some seaweed on the plate.

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In addition to that lovely smell of the shells,

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I want the lovely smell of seaweed.

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That beautiful ozone smell which I'm going to enhance

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just by heating the seaweed up for a few seconds only

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in some boiling water.

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Because when this comes out, you get that,

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oh, indefinable sort of wonderful smell of seaweed,

0:14:070:14:11

which people love.

0:14:110:14:12

Put the...queens on top of that.

0:14:150:14:19

And having done that, I go for the final piece,

0:14:210:14:24

which is, to me, by far the most important -

0:14:240:14:26

the butter itself.

0:14:260:14:28

I'm very pedantic about beurre noisette.

0:14:290:14:31

I don't use a frying pan.

0:14:310:14:33

I use a saucepan because a frying pan's black

0:14:330:14:37

and you can't see what's going on in the bottom of the pan.

0:14:370:14:41

With a saucepan, you can,

0:14:410:14:42

particularly if it's got a steel lining, like this one.

0:14:420:14:45

And I need to be able to judge visually

0:14:450:14:47

exactly when the right point to stop the cooking is.

0:14:470:14:50

Because if you take it too far,

0:14:500:14:52

you've got burnt butter rather than beurre noisette.

0:14:520:14:55

Beurre noisette means nutty in French

0:14:550:14:56

and that's what I'm after - a sort of nutty flavour.

0:14:560:15:00

Another pedantic point of mine is...

0:15:000:15:03

Not quite there, but nearly.

0:15:030:15:05

..is I put the lemon juice, which always goes with noisette,

0:15:050:15:08

actually on the scallops, not in the butter.

0:15:080:15:12

Now, that...is plumb right. Lovely, lovely flavour.

0:15:120:15:16

Quite dark but not burnt.

0:15:160:15:17

And finally, a little finely chopped parsley...

0:15:250:15:28

..to complete the dish.

0:15:300:15:32

That is delicious.

0:15:350:15:36

I think I might just pop one into the old mouth there.

0:15:360:15:39

Mm. You can't beat just a properly made,

0:15:410:15:43

simple butter sauce like that.

0:15:430:15:45

One of the great enthusiasms of running a restaurant

0:15:500:15:52

is creating this calm and serene and relaxed atmosphere.

0:15:520:15:58

But what makes me enjoy it so much more is the knowledge

0:15:580:16:02

that 12 miles out from the Cornish coast,

0:16:020:16:06

things are vastly different.

0:16:060:16:08

The fish that all those people are sitting down and enjoying

0:16:080:16:11

in that warmth is being caught in totally different surroundings.

0:16:110:16:16

And the soup. The nightmare of that vegetable soup.

0:16:230:16:27

GULLS SQUAWK

0:16:580:17:01

Let me tell you what being truly seasick is like.

0:17:050:17:08

It's like being as close to death as anybody would want to be.

0:17:080:17:12

We've been nervous. It's so rough.

0:17:120:17:14

I've never been out in anything like this before.

0:17:140:17:17

Honestly, I've been frightened.

0:17:170:17:19

But it's all worth it

0:17:190:17:21

when you see this fish that's just come out of the cod end.

0:17:210:17:24

It smells so wonderful.

0:17:240:17:26

My whole desire to cook fish

0:17:260:17:29

has just been given such a lift by something like this.

0:17:290:17:33

And I feel really pleased with myself.

0:17:330:17:35

I'm still alive.

0:17:350:17:36

I'm out here in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean

0:17:360:17:39

with a load of fishermen laughing at us

0:17:390:17:41

cos we're so ill, but it's worth it.

0:17:410:17:44

GULLS SQUAWK

0:17:440:17:46

A lot of these fish just get thrown back,

0:17:480:17:51

but this is the stuff that makes the classic fish soup.

0:17:510:17:55

The sort of stuff that everybody else throws away.

0:17:550:17:57

There's so much flavour in it.

0:17:570:17:59

You can't do anything else with it

0:17:590:18:01

but just put it in with all those vegetables

0:18:010:18:04

and cook it for about 40 minutes

0:18:040:18:06

till you've got this really intense, deep, dark flavour.

0:18:060:18:11

It's a bit like the sort of flavour of a fine white Burgundy,

0:18:110:18:14

that the complexity of the flavour

0:18:140:18:16

just keeps going back and back and back.

0:18:160:18:18

Lots of people think fish soup's

0:18:200:18:21

what you put all the old ends and pieces in, but it's not.

0:18:210:18:24

And look how much stuff goes in the fish soup just for four people.

0:18:240:18:28

All these vegetables, all this fish.

0:18:280:18:30

First of all, some onions in this pot

0:18:300:18:33

with lots of olive oil - good olive oil.

0:18:330:18:35

Some leeks.

0:18:350:18:36

And, no, we're not bothering with too much measurement.

0:18:360:18:39

You can see what we're talking about.

0:18:390:18:41

Just lots of vegetables here.

0:18:410:18:42

And some fennel, the herb and the root.

0:18:420:18:45

It's called Florence fennel.

0:18:450:18:46

Some garlic. Lots of garlic. Provencal soup after all.

0:18:460:18:50

Some bay leaves. A couple of bay leaves.

0:18:500:18:52

More aroma from a whole load of orange peel,

0:18:520:18:55

which I dropped in there.

0:18:550:18:56

Some red peppers roasted under the grill, let to blister,

0:18:560:19:00

so that there's a nice, charred flavour in the soup.

0:19:000:19:03

Looking for strong, robust flavours all the time.

0:19:030:19:05

Some saffron. A lot of saffron. Expensive quantity.

0:19:050:19:08

Very important in the fish soup.

0:19:080:19:10

And finally, some tomato puree.

0:19:100:19:12

Now, I'm going to leave that to sweat, as the French say,

0:19:120:19:15

and to form what they call a confit -

0:19:150:19:17

a confit of vegetables - for about 40 minutes

0:19:170:19:20

because that is the only thing that I'm going to thicken the soup with.

0:19:200:19:23

No flour, no breadcrumbs, no rice. Just the vegetables.

0:19:230:19:27

And now, over to the fish.

0:19:270:19:29

This is the sort of fish we use in the fish soup.

0:19:290:19:32

Ling - cheap, very underrated.

0:19:320:19:34

Here we have one of Ivan's lesser congers.

0:19:340:19:36

Some of them go to about 15, 20ft.

0:19:360:19:39

Gurnard - another underrated fish,

0:19:390:19:41

used by lobstermen as bait in their pots,

0:19:410:19:43

but very good flavour.

0:19:430:19:44

And these wrasse, which are beautiful-looking

0:19:440:19:47

and look as though they must taste wonderful,

0:19:470:19:49

but, in fact, they're rather boring, but ideal material for fish soup

0:19:490:19:52

cos they're very, very cheap. Good, thick fillets.

0:19:520:19:55

So, into the pot first goes the wrasse fillets,

0:19:550:19:57

then the dogfish, the gurnard,

0:19:570:20:00

the ling and finally, the conger.

0:20:000:20:03

Loads of conger in all our soup.

0:20:030:20:05

Now, there's a lot of fish in there -

0:20:050:20:07

about well over two pounds just for four people.

0:20:070:20:10

But the more you put in there,

0:20:100:20:11

the wonderful...more wonderful and thick-tasting the soup becomes.

0:20:110:20:16

So, I'm just going to fry these fish fillets

0:20:160:20:18

for about another five, ten minutes.

0:20:180:20:20

Frying things changes their flavour and that's what I'm looking for.

0:20:200:20:24

It's all nicely amalgamated.

0:20:240:20:26

Now, there's one other fish ingredient or seafood ingredient

0:20:260:20:29

that goes into this, which is prawns.

0:20:290:20:31

The shellfish gives it a wonderful, sweet, additional fish flavour.

0:20:310:20:37

Now, while I've been cooking this soup,

0:20:370:20:39

I've been making some stock with a load of bones.

0:20:390:20:42

Any old bones will do.

0:20:420:20:44

This is the sort of thing that's gone in.

0:20:440:20:46

That's a bit of conger, some bass.

0:20:460:20:48

All the old fish frames from the fish filleting go in there.

0:20:480:20:52

Contrary to what people think, it only takes about 20 minutes.

0:20:520:20:55

You can cook it longer, you'll get more taste,

0:20:550:20:58

but the taste will be glue and general bitterness.

0:20:580:21:00

About four pints going in here now.

0:21:000:21:02

Now, we'll leave that to simmer away for another 40 minutes -

0:21:040:21:07

as long as that - to get all that flavour into the soup.

0:21:070:21:10

And there are a couple of ingredients

0:21:110:21:13

that I haven't put in yet.

0:21:130:21:15

First of all, some tinned tomatoes.

0:21:150:21:17

I used to put fresh tomatoes in

0:21:170:21:19

because I thought you had to put fresh into everything.

0:21:190:21:21

But, actually, English tomatoes are rather what I call vapid,

0:21:210:21:24

a bit lacking in flavour for something like this fish soup.

0:21:240:21:27

In addition to that, I'm going to put some orange juice in.

0:21:270:21:29

That's the juice of these oranges that I took the peel off earlier.

0:21:290:21:33

To squeeze this orange juice, I've got this wonderful machine.

0:21:330:21:35

I was actually brought up on a farm

0:21:350:21:37

where we used to castrate lambs with something like this.

0:21:370:21:40

Looks as though it might be extremely painful.

0:21:400:21:43

So, in they go.

0:21:430:21:45

Everything now is ready to come down for another 35-odd minutes

0:21:450:21:49

and that'll be that.

0:21:490:21:51

I keep telling my kids this sort of passes as an outboard motor

0:21:510:21:55

as well as a liquidiser.

0:21:550:21:56

I think you could sort of zip up the estuary at about 40mph

0:21:560:21:59

with that on the back of a small boat.

0:21:590:22:01

But this will do the job in about one minute flat.

0:22:010:22:04

I'm liquidising all this fish and the prawns.

0:22:070:22:10

Doesn't matter about the shells at all

0:22:100:22:12

cos after I've liquidised this,

0:22:120:22:15

I'm just going to pass it through a sieve and the soup will be ready!

0:22:150:22:19

This is better than aerobics.

0:22:200:22:23

I'm really working to get this stuff through.

0:22:230:22:26

But it doesn't want to be too solid.

0:22:260:22:28

They don't want to be eating sort of seafood porridge,

0:22:280:22:31

if you see what I mean.

0:22:310:22:33

And there it is in all its wonderful, deep,

0:22:330:22:36

reddy-brown splendour.

0:22:360:22:37

Now, this rouille, as it's called,

0:22:390:22:41

it's made with chilli...

0:22:410:22:43

You can buy jars of chopped chilli.

0:22:430:22:47

..garlic, saffron and just mayonnaise.

0:22:470:22:50

Those float in the soup.

0:22:500:22:52

And on top of all that, we sprinkle a generous amount of,

0:22:520:22:55

in this case, Parmesan, but you can use Gruyere or Emmenthal

0:22:550:22:58

or any hard cheese like that.

0:22:580:23:00

And as is traditional in these things,

0:23:000:23:02

it's only now necessary for me to try it.

0:23:020:23:06

Mm!

0:23:080:23:09

Mm. That is fantastic.

0:23:110:23:13

I have to agree with Rick, that soup did look fantastic.

0:23:190:23:22

There are so many other great soups you can do very easily at home

0:23:220:23:25

if you don't fancy having a go at Rick's.

0:23:250:23:27

I've got one to show you that's inspired by a recent trip to France,

0:23:270:23:30

where I was this week.

0:23:300:23:31

We're just coming into season. We have some peas.

0:23:310:23:33

It's very simple to make and it's great.

0:23:330:23:35

You can actually make this with frozen peas, like I'll do now,

0:23:350:23:38

until the season's progressed. But we've got some frozen peas,

0:23:380:23:41

shallots, butter, a touch of cream, some mint...

0:23:410:23:44

A touch of cream? You've got a yard o' cream there.

0:23:440:23:46

-I'm not going to use all of it.

-Good.

0:23:460:23:48

A touch of cream and some chicken stock.

0:23:480:23:50

Jenny thought this was apple juice during that.

0:23:500:23:52

-I thought, "Ooh, that's novel."

-THEY LAUGH

0:23:520:23:55

Like you put apple juice in pea soup...

0:23:550:23:58

What we're going to do is basically start this off.

0:23:580:24:00

We're going to chop these shallots.

0:24:000:24:02

It is cooked in real time so we'll chop these nice and fine.

0:24:020:24:04

I'd help, James, I really would,

0:24:040:24:06

but I don't think you would need me interfering.

0:24:060:24:09

Now, you didn't have an oven for years, did you, at home?

0:24:090:24:12

How did you cope without an oven?

0:24:120:24:13

Well, we didn't cook because we didn't have an oven.

0:24:130:24:16

-But I didn't miss it.

-What did you eat?

0:24:160:24:19

Well, I was gigging a lot at the time.

0:24:190:24:21

-We're going back some time now.

-Yeah.

0:24:210:24:23

And I've got quite an undemanding partner, weirdly enough.

0:24:230:24:27

And he just likes sandwiches. We ate like children at a tea party.

0:24:270:24:31

THEY LAUGH Just ate sandwiches!

0:24:310:24:34

We'd have sandwiches and crisps and maybe, if he'd been a good boy,

0:24:340:24:37

he could have jelly and ice cream afterwards.

0:24:370:24:40

And then a daughter came along

0:24:400:24:42

and she was fed by her nanny, mostly.

0:24:420:24:48

And then, one day - this is true - she came home from...

0:24:480:24:51

You should never let them go to other people's houses, children,

0:24:510:24:54

cos they come home with all sorts of ideas.

0:24:540:24:56

She came home saucer-eyed. She was about six.

0:24:560:25:00

And she goes, "Did you know, and this is true,

0:25:000:25:04

"you can make cakes in your house?"

0:25:040:25:07

-THEY LAUGH

-And I said...

0:25:070:25:10

I said, "Not in this house, love. There's no cooker."

0:25:100:25:13

And then I did try and...

0:25:130:25:15

We had a microwave.

0:25:150:25:17

And I got a cake mix and I thought, "I can make...

0:25:170:25:20

"I can do this in a microwave. I'm sure I can.

0:25:200:25:23

"You know, I'm quite an intelligent woman.

0:25:230:25:25

"Just read the instructions on the back of the cake mix."

0:25:250:25:27

Anyway, I put the cake mix in the microwave

0:25:270:25:30

and it had a grill function

0:25:300:25:31

and for some reason, I put it on the grill function.

0:25:310:25:33

I grilled this cake. It looked all brown and beautiful.

0:25:330:25:35

I got it out and we cut it open. It was just liquid on the inside.

0:25:350:25:39

She has never trusted me ever since, my daughter. She's 19 now.

0:25:390:25:42

But your daughter's not a great...

0:25:420:25:44

This has kind of passed on to your daughter, really?

0:25:440:25:46

It probably left her mentally scarred when she was a child.

0:25:460:25:49

Yeah, she's not confident in the kitchen.

0:25:490:25:51

She doesn't cook either?

0:25:510:25:52

-Well, she's a very good salad maker and...

-Sandwich maker?

0:25:520:25:55

Salads and sandwiches.

0:25:550:25:57

I have to say, Jenny, I'd love a restaurant near your house.

0:25:570:25:59

You'd be in all the time, wouldn't you?

0:25:590:26:01

Didn't you have a few disasters at Christmas?

0:26:010:26:03

Which is probably the hardest time to cook anything.

0:26:030:26:06

See, this is the stupidity and arrogance

0:26:060:26:08

of somebody that can't cook but is overly optimistic,

0:26:080:26:12

and, you know, think I can do anything.

0:26:120:26:14

And so I said, "We're doing Christmas at our house!"

0:26:140:26:18

And so we had to do this.

0:26:180:26:21

And we had some dummy runs and all this kind of thing.

0:26:210:26:23

We had fake Christmas dinner for about six weeks.

0:26:230:26:27

Got a bit bored of it.

0:26:270:26:28

Come the day, we'd been having it for six Sundays previously.

0:26:280:26:32

So, we did the whole thing,

0:26:320:26:34

got a bit distracted and finished the Christmas dinner.

0:26:340:26:37

It was all all right.

0:26:370:26:38

About four days later, I found the chipolatas in the cupboard.

0:26:380:26:41

You know when you're cooking

0:26:410:26:43

and you think, "I haven't got any space to put these down!

0:26:430:26:45

"I'll just open this cupboard door and put them in there.

0:26:450:26:48

"I'll remember them." And I didn't. And then I did Christmas lunch...

0:26:480:26:51

-Am I distracting you?

-No, go on. Carry on.

-I did Christmas lunch.

0:26:510:26:54

The recipe's on the website anyway. I can't get a word in edgeways.

0:26:540:26:58

Sorry, people are more interested in this than my...

0:26:580:27:00

-I'll tell you what I've got.

-Go on.

0:27:000:27:01

-Shallots, butter in there.

-Yeah.

-Frozen peas have gone in.

0:27:010:27:05

Chicken stock, not apple juice. Chicken stock. Bit of double cream.

0:27:050:27:08

And all I'm going to do is just basically bring this to the boil.

0:27:080:27:12

And you kind of just defrost the peas, that's all.

0:27:120:27:14

Then I'm going to blend it all up with some salt and pepper.

0:27:140:27:17

I've whipped up some cream here. Going to add some lime zest

0:27:170:27:19

-and chopped mint into there.

-God!

0:27:190:27:21

It's almost as easy as opening a tin.

0:27:210:27:23

THEY LAUGH

0:27:240:27:27

And, erm...

0:27:270:27:29

Anyway, the next time I did Christmas lunch...

0:27:290:27:31

This is fascinating, I know.

0:27:310:27:33

But you know when you're getting things out of the oven

0:27:330:27:37

and you just forget cos you don't cook on a daily basis?

0:27:370:27:40

And you don't have an oven, yeah.

0:27:400:27:41

-Yeah, and you're not used to ovens.

-Yeah.

0:27:410:27:44

So, oven novice.

0:27:440:27:46

I didn't put an oven glove on.

0:27:460:27:48

-Well, that's not good.

-Oh!

0:27:480:27:51

And my hand welded.

0:27:510:27:53

I got the stuffing out.

0:27:530:27:54

You know how long the stuffing's been in that hot oven?

0:27:540:27:57

Got it out with my bare hand.

0:27:570:27:59

And there was a funny smell and I thought,

0:27:590:28:01

"Ooh, it smells a bit porky. What's that?"

0:28:010:28:04

My hand, but welded to the stuffing dish.

0:28:040:28:07

I had to sort of pull it away, the skin.

0:28:070:28:10

I had to... It was my right hand.

0:28:100:28:12

I had to eat my Christmas lunch with my left hand.

0:28:120:28:17

Just a spoon in the left hand

0:28:170:28:19

with my other hand in a big thing of cold water, like that.

0:28:190:28:24

-Got me out of the washing up.

-Now, these are the kind of stories

0:28:240:28:27

that you're telling on your new tour?

0:28:270:28:29

No, I'm funnier than that on my tour. These are just anecdotes.

0:28:290:28:32

-These are anecdotes.

-I'm doing daytime anecdotes.

0:28:320:28:34

I'm just going to blend this up. Just two seconds.

0:28:340:28:37

-That's a beautiful colour.

-Like that. That's just the peas.

0:28:370:28:40

And you add enough cream now just till you make a nice colour.

0:28:400:28:44

Into there now, I'm going to add some fresh mint.

0:28:440:28:46

You know, you could take that to the paint shop

0:28:470:28:50

and say, "That's the colour I want for my downstairs bathroom."

0:28:500:28:54

-HE LAUGHS

-It's a beautiful colour.

0:28:540:28:56

-My granny had a bathroom suite like that.

-Lovely!

0:28:590:29:02

-Avocado.

-Avocado, isn't it?

0:29:020:29:04

-In we go with the salt. I put some mint in there.

-I can smell it.

0:29:060:29:10

I cannot believe you can actually buy minted frozen peas now, but...

0:29:100:29:14

-You cannot, can you?

-Whatever next?

-Hey, that's ridiculous.

0:29:140:29:18

-You can grow your own mint.

-Delia'd be liking them.

0:29:180:29:20

-Now, you did a series...you did a tour last year, didn't you?

-Yes.

0:29:200:29:24

Doing another one.

0:29:240:29:25

-Cos it was so successful. 150,000 people watched it.

-Did they?

0:29:250:29:29

-Yeah, that's what it says on my piece of paper here.

-Gosh!

0:29:290:29:31

-How many of them enjoyed it?

-SHE LAUGHS

0:29:310:29:34

-And you're doing it again?

-Yes, I'm back on the road.

0:29:340:29:36

I'm going to...I did a tour last autumn

0:29:360:29:39

called Because I Forgot To Get A Pension.

0:29:390:29:42

So, it was a desperate sort of...

0:29:420:29:43

It's a legitimate begging around the country.

0:29:430:29:47

"Give me some money. Help me."

0:29:470:29:49

-Ooh, look at that.

-It's not finished yet. Carry on.

0:29:490:29:52

-You could have this cold as well, couldn't you?

-Yeah.

0:29:520:29:54

-If I keep talking.

-Yeah, go on.

0:29:540:29:57

-So...

-Not yet.

-Not yet?

-Go on, carry on.

0:29:570:30:00

-I'm a bad girl.

-Go on.

-Bad, greedy girl. Not more cream?

0:30:000:30:04

-So, where are you going to? Yeah, there's loads of cream.

-All over.

0:30:040:30:07

God, I'm going to have a massive heart attack live on telly.

0:30:070:30:09

-And there's a little bit more cream going on here.

-Trying to kill me.

0:30:090:30:12

Where are you going on your tour? Where are you going?

0:30:120:30:15

I start in Leeds and then I'm all over. I mean, just look...

0:30:150:30:18

-Oh, look, very oily now.

-HE LAUGHS

0:30:180:30:22

-I think he's overdone the fat content here.

-No.

0:30:220:30:25

There's a little bit of salad to keep you healthy there.

0:30:250:30:27

-A few pea shoots. Look at that.

-That is beautiful.

0:30:270:30:30

-Stunning. Look at that.

-That's beautiful.

-In five minutes.

0:30:300:30:32

-So, yes, it's the same tour, but it's been extended.

-Right.

0:30:320:30:36

Due to popular demand and the fact that I still haven't got a pension.

0:30:360:30:39

This isn't a proper soup spoon. What do you do?

0:30:390:30:41

There's not proper cutlery.

0:30:410:30:43

I don't know whether I can possibly eat it.

0:30:430:30:46

SHE LAUGHS Tell us what you think.

0:30:460:30:49

It is genuinely...

0:30:490:30:51

-Fresh?

-It is genuinely delicious.

-There you go.

0:30:520:30:55

I'm glad you enjoyed it, Jenny, but more importantly,

0:30:590:31:02

I'm glad you've invested in an oven now.

0:31:020:31:04

If you'd like to try cooking any of the delicious studio recipes

0:31:040:31:07

you've seen on today's show, all of those are just a click away

0:31:070:31:10

at bbc.co.uk/recipes.

0:31:100:31:12

Today, we're looking back at some of the best recipes

0:31:120:31:15

from the Saturday Kitchen larder.

0:31:150:31:16

Now, she's one of the finest chefs in the country

0:31:160:31:19

and it's always a pleasure

0:31:190:31:20

to welcome her to the Saturday Kitchen studio.

0:31:200:31:22

So, over to you, the three-star Michelin Clare Smyth.

0:31:220:31:26

-Great to have you on the show, Clare, again.

-Good to be here.

0:31:260:31:28

On the menu for you, something in season at the moment.

0:31:280:31:30

-Coming into season anyway.

-Yeah.

0:31:300:31:32

Well, the very beginning of the season.

0:31:320:31:34

So, we've got roast monkfish with iberico ham.

0:31:340:31:36

We've got peas, broad beans, morel mushrooms and some asparagus.

0:31:360:31:40

Sounds good to me. So, I know you want to get the monkfish on.

0:31:400:31:43

You want me to do this little butter as well to go with it.

0:31:430:31:46

-Fire away.

-It's a really simple, seasonal dish

0:31:460:31:49

and quite easy to do at home as well.

0:31:490:31:51

Now, tell us about the restaurant

0:31:520:31:53

because you've had a little bit of a refit recently when I drove past it.

0:31:530:31:56

-It was closed for a number of weeks.

-Yeah, we closed for five weeks

0:31:560:32:00

-and, yeah, just totally refurbished the dining room.

-Yeah.

0:32:000:32:04

For the...this is the third new dining room we've had, actually,

0:32:040:32:07

in the 15 years the restaurant's been open, which is pretty unusual.

0:32:070:32:11

-Yeah.

-A complete refurb and new design.

0:32:110:32:14

But it's really beautiful.

0:32:140:32:15

I'm really happy how it's turned out.

0:32:150:32:17

Did you get a new kitchen or not?

0:32:170:32:18

-We just sort of tidied the kitchen up a little bit.

-Right.

-It's...

0:32:180:32:23

The kitchen is only six years old,

0:32:230:32:25

so, yeah, get a few more years out of it yet.

0:32:250:32:27

Few more years yet. So, the monkfish has gone in.

0:32:270:32:29

-Yeah, we're just going to roast the monkfish up.

-Yeah.

0:32:310:32:33

-Whilst that's roasting, I'm going to start cooking the morels.

-Right.

0:32:330:32:38

Nice little warm pan here.

0:32:380:32:40

-So, these are fresh morels that we've got in here.

-Yes, they are.

0:32:400:32:43

Yeah. But, obviously, people can use the dried ones

0:32:430:32:47

cos they're quite difficult to get a hold of.

0:32:470:32:49

They are, and they can be quite expensive as well.

0:32:490:32:51

So, I'm just going to start with a little bit of butter.

0:32:510:32:54

-I'm going to take some of your shallots there.

-Yeah.

0:32:540:32:56

Where do you get your inspiration from

0:32:580:33:00

for a three-Michelin-star menu?

0:33:000:33:02

Where does that come from?

0:33:020:33:03

It's quite...it kind of comes from everywhere.

0:33:030:33:07

It comes from produce, really.

0:33:070:33:10

You know, it's trying to find seasons, the produce,

0:33:100:33:14

great suppliers, great producers of stuff.

0:33:140:33:18

Erm, yeah, and obviously, your training

0:33:180:33:21

and sort of background as well has got a lot to do with it.

0:33:210:33:24

-We'll sweat those down a little bit.

-So, the morels have gone in?

-Yeah.

0:33:260:33:29

Just going to sweat them a little bit

0:33:290:33:31

and then I'll put some white wine and some stock in there.

0:33:310:33:34

-Then we'll get a little bit of colour on this monkfish.

-Yeah.

0:33:340:33:37

Then I'm going to pop it into the oven.

0:33:370:33:38

Little bit of butter in there, James.

0:33:400:33:42

If I can borrow that just to cook my butter in there as well.

0:33:420:33:46

-I know you like a little bit of butter in there.

-A little bit, yeah.

0:33:460:33:49

Shallots, garlic, mushrooms - they're going to go in.

0:33:490:33:52

Making a little butter to go with, to finish it off.

0:33:520:33:54

Just to stir into the peas. I think it's a really nice butter

0:33:540:33:57

that you can just pop into the freezer.

0:33:570:33:59

You can put it on top of anything, really.

0:33:590:34:00

You could put it on top of a bit of steak.

0:34:000:34:02

-Do you want me to pop that in the oven?

-Yes, please.

0:34:020:34:04

-OK, how long does this take?

-About four minutes in the oven.

0:34:040:34:07

-Four minutes. Quite a high oven.

-Yeah.

-That goes straight in.

0:34:070:34:10

I'm just going to put a little bit of white wine

0:34:100:34:13

into the morels there.

0:34:130:34:16

-Going to move this over.

-There we go. You can use that.

0:34:160:34:19

-Just reduce the white wine a touch.

-Yeah.

-Some chicken stock in there.

0:34:200:34:23

Now, you have a particular way of cooking these asparagus as well,

0:34:250:34:28

-don't you, which is slightly different?

-Yeah.

0:34:280:34:31

I think we cook a lot of the vegetables

0:34:310:34:33

-and things at the restaurant very simply.

-Right.

0:34:330:34:36

We don't like to...

0:34:360:34:38

-It kind of makes its own sauce as well when we're cooking it.

-Yeah.

0:34:380:34:41

It's almost just seizing all the flavour into it.

0:34:410:34:44

I'm just going to prep those now.

0:34:450:34:47

And that butter you're making is actually originally

0:34:470:34:51

from a snail butter recipe that we used to use

0:34:510:34:54

with Dijon mustard in it, a little bit of ham.

0:34:540:34:58

Cos when people have this idea of a three-star menu,

0:34:580:35:01

they think it's massively complicated.

0:35:010:35:02

Elements of it can be quite straightforward and simple.

0:35:020:35:05

Yeah, I think so.

0:35:050:35:06

I mean, it's all about precision in cooking. Quality and precision.

0:35:060:35:10

I think Paul will agree with me on that.

0:35:100:35:12

I mean, Paul, how long did you work with me for

0:35:120:35:14

at Hospital Road? Three years?

0:35:140:35:16

-I was there for three years, yeah.

-Yeah.

0:35:160:35:18

-I mean, we've got a few stories.

-He's not saying anything, you see?

0:35:180:35:21

Yeah, we've got a few stories.

0:35:210:35:25

But, yeah, I mean, it's all about quality ingredients

0:35:250:35:28

and trying to find the best produce all of the time.

0:35:280:35:31

-And, yeah, precision, really.

-Yeah.

0:35:310:35:34

And consistency, like you were saying, it's just...

0:35:340:35:37

-Yeah, absolutely.

-Over and over again.

0:35:370:35:40

Yeah, and it takes a lot of focus.

0:35:400:35:42

So, you'd normally do this with snails, you were saying?

0:35:420:35:45

Yeah, it's a really nice...

0:35:450:35:47

Just sweat down the button mushrooms,

0:35:470:35:49

the shallots, garlic, parsley.

0:35:490:35:51

A little bit of chopped ham in there is really nice.

0:35:510:35:54

Mustard and almonds.

0:35:540:35:56

We put ground almonds into it cos when you're putting the snails in,

0:35:560:35:59

it helps absorb the butter and stick to the snails,

0:35:590:36:01

which is really nice.

0:36:010:36:03

So, we wrap that in clingfilm. That can go in the fridge.

0:36:030:36:05

-That's just the ham in there as well.

-Yeah.

0:36:050:36:07

We've got one that's in here, which we did this morning.

0:36:070:36:12

So, you were talking about the asparagus.

0:36:130:36:15

-Just coming into season now?

-Yeah, just coming in.

0:36:150:36:18

It's probably some of the first we've seen, I think.

0:36:180:36:20

Yeah, I think...we've just got it coming from Wales this week.

0:36:200:36:23

This is the first one.

0:36:230:36:24

Sort of a little microclimate there, that it starts.

0:36:240:36:27

Put that one there.

0:36:270:36:29

OK, so, we're just going to put it into a hot pan

0:36:300:36:32

with a little bit of olive oil.

0:36:320:36:34

-But you're cooking this really quickly?

-Really quickly.

0:36:350:36:38

-Little bit of salt.

-I'll lift this off and have a look.

0:36:400:36:44

So, that's just chicken stock in there?

0:36:480:36:50

-Little bit of stock in there, yeah.

-Right. So, no need to blanch it?

0:36:500:36:53

-You just cook that with the olive oil and chicken stock?

-Yeah.

0:36:530:36:56

We're going to do the same thing with the peas and the broad beans.

0:36:560:36:59

Going to actually put a bit of butter into the peas, though.

0:36:590:37:01

Turn that up for you.

0:37:010:37:02

Just check that's OK. Those are just braising away.

0:37:040:37:07

Pop the peas in.

0:37:080:37:10

It's a really quick, simple way to cook things, like this.

0:37:100:37:12

Few of those, little bit of salt.

0:37:150:37:17

So, when you had your five weeks off travelling around,

0:37:200:37:23

what ingredient did you find the most fascinating for you

0:37:230:37:26

on your new menu?

0:37:260:37:27

Well, I was up in Cumbria, so I was visiting the farmers and stuff.

0:37:270:37:32

They were... Actually, on Paul's menu,

0:37:320:37:34

I ate some Herdwick mutton, which was fantastic.

0:37:340:37:37

-Right.

-And really, really delicious.

0:37:370:37:40

And, you know, talking with a farmer and he's saying to me,

0:37:400:37:45

"Mutton's a by-product of lamb."

0:37:450:37:47

So, if we're all going to eat lamb, we have to eat mutton as well.

0:37:470:37:50

So, it just makes sense.

0:37:500:37:51

And, really, talking with those people make you understand that,

0:37:510:37:54

so I want to put it on my lunch menu now

0:37:540:37:56

just to sort of balance out life, really.

0:37:560:37:59

The circle of life. That's how it's got to be.

0:37:590:38:01

Cos also there's that in between sort of lamb and mutton -

0:38:010:38:03

the hogget around sort of December time,

0:38:030:38:06

December/January time, which is also really good.

0:38:060:38:09

Yeah, it's absolutely delicious. Yeah.

0:38:090:38:11

Right, well, I'm going to get the fish out, so you can check that.

0:38:110:38:14

-You can just taste these.

-This has had four minutes exactly.

0:38:150:38:19

Now, of course, all of today's studio recipes,

0:38:190:38:21

including this one from Clare, are on our website.

0:38:210:38:23

Go to bbc.co.uk/saturdaykitchen.

0:38:230:38:26

All right, I'll just cover this over with the butter.

0:38:260:38:29

Yeah, and we'll just rest that monkfish for about a minute

0:38:300:38:33

-whilst this is finishing off.

-Right.

-Pop in our broad beans.

0:38:330:38:37

The key to this is basically allow it

0:38:370:38:39

-to rest just a touch, isn't it?

-Yeah.

0:38:390:38:41

So, I'll lift that off

0:38:420:38:44

cos you're going to top this with some...

0:38:440:38:46

-Yeah, we've got some beautiful iberico ham here...

-Yeah.

0:38:460:38:50

..which is just going to melt over the top.

0:38:500:38:54

The fat of that just melts right over the top of the monkfish.

0:38:540:38:57

I've seen it often done with lardo as well,

0:38:570:38:59

-which is the same sort of thing.

-Exactly the same sort of thing.

0:38:590:39:02

I'm just going to wrap that around there. Let it sit and melt.

0:39:020:39:06

And I've got my butter here ready.

0:39:080:39:10

-Yeah, we're just going to pop some of that into the peas.

-Yeah.

0:39:100:39:13

-This is great cos you can freeze this as well, can't you?

-Yeah.

0:39:160:39:18

Good thing with that.

0:39:180:39:20

So, I think we're almost there.

0:39:220:39:23

You just pop that into the peas, let it melt in.

0:39:230:39:25

What do we need? Spoons.

0:39:270:39:29

And if people were using the dried morels,

0:39:300:39:33

would you use cold or warm water maybe?

0:39:330:39:36

-I'd put a little bit of warm water on there.

-Yeah.

0:39:360:39:38

We'll just stir all that lovely butter in and also...

0:39:410:39:44

You get the colour in that way as well.

0:39:440:39:45

Yeah, also, I think that this butter's really good

0:39:450:39:49

if you're roasting mushrooms as well.

0:39:490:39:51

And you can just sort of fry it up

0:39:510:39:52

-if you've got girolles coming into the summer...

-Yeah.

0:39:520:39:55

..which is great.

0:39:560:39:58

That asparagus is ready.

0:39:590:40:00

So, how many seats is in the one in Royal Hospital Road, then?

0:40:000:40:04

-It's 44 in total.

-Right.

0:40:040:40:06

-I presume you do that lunch and dinner.

-Yeah.

0:40:070:40:11

We do, yeah, about 50 covers for dinner,

0:40:110:40:13

about 40 for lunch every day, which keeps us out of trouble.

0:40:130:40:17

OK, that's about ready.

0:40:210:40:23

-Right, I'll switch that off. Ready when you are.

-OK.

0:40:230:40:26

The great thing about this is it's almost self-saucing

0:40:280:40:32

because you've got all that wonderful, sort of buttery peas

0:40:320:40:35

and all the herbs and everything already in there.

0:40:350:40:39

-And the broad beans, you've just basically de-podded those.

-Yeah.

0:40:390:40:42

Peeled them, obviously. Taken the little white bits out.

0:40:420:40:46

What we do in Michelin-starred restaurants.

0:40:460:40:48

-Was that your job when you were there?

-Shelling the peas?

0:40:500:40:53

-Shelling the peas.

-Yeah.

-HE LAUGHS

0:40:530:40:55

-And then cutting them in half.

-And then cutting them in half.

-Yeah.

0:40:550:40:58

-And all of the...yeah, the baby onions.

-Yeah.

0:40:590:41:03

So, and then we've got a few just little broad bean flowers,

0:41:060:41:09

which are absolutely stunning.

0:41:090:41:10

And this is actually one of the guys down near Poole

0:41:100:41:13

that grows these for us.

0:41:130:41:14

Now, you've got one of these that you test the fish as well.

0:41:150:41:18

Yeah, I didn't use it just now, but just a little spike.

0:41:180:41:21

Steak, everything - just poke it in and just feel the temperature of it.

0:41:210:41:26

And it's...I mean, chefs don't know when things are cooked.

0:41:260:41:28

-We have to check as well.

-Yeah.

-I couldn't live without that.

0:41:280:41:31

-And the broad bean flowers?

-Yeah.

-Tell us what that is again.

0:41:310:41:34

OK, it's roast monkfish with iberico ham, peas,

0:41:340:41:37

broad beans, morels and asparagus.

0:41:370:41:38

How good does that look?

0:41:380:41:40

It looks fantastic.

0:41:450:41:46

You know it's going to taste fantastic as well.

0:41:460:41:50

Now, a quick word of advice.

0:41:500:41:52

Don't take the mick out of this one. THEY LAUGH

0:41:520:41:55

-I'll try not to.

-Tell us what you think of that one, then, sir.

0:41:550:41:59

-Well...

-That monkfish.

0:42:020:42:04

The great thing about monkfish is

0:42:040:42:05

we used to give it away, really, back then.

0:42:050:42:08

But nowadays, it's become hugely popular.

0:42:080:42:10

-I think a victim of its own success, really.

-It is.

0:42:100:42:12

Chefs have been telling how fantastic it is

0:42:120:42:14

and the price keeps going up.

0:42:140:42:15

Yeah, and it's almost priced off people's menus these days.

0:42:150:42:18

-It's a nice nose-to-tail fish.

-Really is lovely.

0:42:180:42:20

-Happy with that?

-Yeah.

0:42:200:42:22

So simple and so tasty.

0:42:270:42:28

Now, if you can't get hold of iberico ham,

0:42:280:42:31

Parma ham or lardo would work really well too.

0:42:310:42:34

Next up is Keith Floyd.

0:42:340:42:35

He's celebrating some of Norfolk's finest food

0:42:350:42:37

as he continues his adventure through Britain and Ireland.

0:42:370:42:40

He's got a recipe for the perfect potted shrimps lined up today,

0:42:400:42:43

or as he likes to call it, potted shrimps the hard way.

0:42:430:42:47

KEITH FLOYD: In the words of the master -

0:42:480:42:50

and I hardly think you need reminding that I refer,

0:42:500:42:52

of course, to Ernest... I mean Noel Coward,

0:42:520:42:54

Norfolk is, in a phrase, terribly, terribly flat.

0:42:540:42:58

But East Anglia,

0:42:580:42:59

once the kingdom of that wonderful Saxon king Wuffingas -

0:42:590:43:03

great name, great bloke -

0:43:030:43:04

has always been one of Europe's rich melting pots.

0:43:040:43:07

This is where the Norse, the Danes and the Flemish,

0:43:070:43:09

not to mention some brilliant thriller writers, decided to settle.

0:43:090:43:13

And the region became prosperous from wool, weaving and corn.

0:43:130:43:17

Despite the polyglot influence - that's this week's word -

0:43:170:43:20

it's managed to retain a unique character.

0:43:200:43:22

Although, on the surface,

0:43:220:43:23

it seems to be the epitome of peaceful, merry England,

0:43:230:43:26

its reticence belies the strong character

0:43:260:43:28

that's reflected in the recipes and produce.

0:43:280:43:30

Not to mention Oliver Cromwell,

0:43:300:43:32

who, like myself, was a very misunderstood man.

0:43:320:43:35

Notwithstanding Oliver's peccadilloes -

0:43:370:43:40

that's next week's word -

0:43:400:43:41

he wouldn't approve of plans to dredge the seabed,

0:43:410:43:43

the habitat of shrimps, whelks and mussels,

0:43:430:43:46

in order to build motorways.

0:43:460:43:47

While I was there, not that I have any political aspirations

0:43:470:43:50

or a desire to interfere, there were plans afoot

0:43:500:43:53

that could put an end to this plentiful source of seafood.

0:43:530:43:55

I have a fine time, don't I? Cruising down the river.

0:43:560:44:00

Late afternoon, early spring - absolutely idyllic.

0:44:000:44:04

I'm headed for the Wells Bar, which is not, for once, a pub.

0:44:040:44:08

This hell of white water with teeth like bananas ahead of us,

0:44:080:44:12

that is the Wells Bar.

0:44:120:44:13

Beyond them are the shrimp grounds.

0:44:130:44:15

And on this little boat, The Romulus,

0:44:150:44:17

we're going to throw some nets or whatever they do -

0:44:170:44:19

I don't know cos I haven't done it yet -

0:44:190:44:21

and for sure as eggs is eggs,

0:44:210:44:22

we ain't already got some in the oven or in the deepfreeze,

0:44:220:44:25

we're going to catch these delicious little brown shrimps

0:44:250:44:28

and I'm going to cook you some proper potted shrimps.

0:44:280:44:31

But in short, the title of this little cooking sketch is

0:44:310:44:34

potted shrimps the hard way.

0:44:340:44:36

The shrimp, or even better still, crangon vulgaris,

0:44:430:44:46

is a totally inadequate word

0:44:460:44:47

for up to 2,000 different species of crustacean.

0:44:470:44:50

These little brown relatives of crabs, crayfish and lobsters

0:44:500:44:53

have a funny habit,

0:44:530:44:54

rather like most senior BBC personnel,

0:44:540:44:57

of swimming backwards.

0:44:570:44:58

No names, no pack drill.

0:44:580:45:00

So, these, then, these little things here,

0:45:010:45:05

are the freshest little brown shrimps

0:45:050:45:07

I think you're ever going to see.

0:45:070:45:09

No wonder they're so expensive, though.

0:45:090:45:11

I mean, that's not exactly a huge catch, is it,

0:45:110:45:13

for four or five hours trawling?

0:45:130:45:15

And it's jolly hard work. I mean, they did have a winch,

0:45:150:45:17

they could pull it in by machinery,

0:45:170:45:19

but there just weren't enough to justify it.

0:45:190:45:21

And do you know, I was, in fact, going to cook these on the boat -

0:45:210:45:24

potted shrimps my way - but it's a bit rough,

0:45:240:45:26

it's a bit choppy and it's not easy to do it.

0:45:260:45:28

In fact, I could hardly open the caviar I had for my lunch.

0:45:280:45:31

My hand slipped on the tin opener.

0:45:310:45:33

So, to get back behind the breakwater, in the calm waters

0:45:330:45:36

and do these things with a bit of butter,

0:45:360:45:38

bit of mace and stuff like that.

0:45:380:45:39

The man who wrote that stuff about those who go down to the sea

0:45:450:45:48

and do their business in small boats knew exactly what he was on about.

0:45:480:45:51

So, don't whinge about the price of a saucer full of fresh shrimps,

0:45:510:45:54

or for that matter, anything that's won from the unforgiving sea.

0:45:540:45:57

But at Wells-next-the-Sea,

0:46:010:46:02

the serious business of preparing shrimps continues,

0:46:020:46:05

as it has done for the past 500 years or more...or less.

0:46:050:46:09

You'll notice that these little boats have shrimp boilers on board.

0:46:090:46:12

This is to ensure maximum freshness, flavour and taste.

0:46:120:46:16

But sifting these little beauties reminded me of those days

0:46:160:46:19

when you went blackberrying - one for you, one for the basket.

0:46:190:46:23

And, indeed, just the smell of freshly boiled shrimps

0:46:230:46:26

wafting on this cool April evening

0:46:260:46:27

became one of the most endearing memories of Norfolk.

0:46:270:46:31

867.

0:46:310:46:33

868.

0:46:350:46:39

I actually think that's enough.

0:46:390:46:40

I mean, this is the freshest and the biggest potted shrimp in the world.

0:46:400:46:44

It is, as we say, from trawler to table

0:46:440:46:46

in only, actually, five and three-quarter hours.

0:46:460:46:50

It was a very quick preparation.

0:46:500:46:51

But look at the little beauties. Aren't they fabulous?

0:46:510:46:54

Brown Norfolk shrimps.

0:46:560:46:58

You need - it's very important -

0:46:580:47:00

some melted butter, which I've melted on the galley below.

0:47:000:47:04

And you've got to skim off this scum from the top

0:47:040:47:07

because you don't want that to ruin the dish.

0:47:070:47:12

All you otherwise need to make this superb thing

0:47:120:47:15

is...a good pinch of mace.

0:47:150:47:18

Into there.

0:47:190:47:20

Quite a lot of mace because we've got enough shrimps here

0:47:200:47:23

for a little army.

0:47:230:47:25

Stir the mace in.

0:47:250:47:27

Lots and lots of grinds of lovely black pepper.

0:47:270:47:32

It's quarter to seven on this lovely April evening

0:47:320:47:35

and my little fingers are frozen.

0:47:350:47:38

They really are.

0:47:380:47:39

It does worry me, though, as I tuck into these

0:47:440:47:47

and prepare these, this aggregate thing.

0:47:470:47:49

I know nothing about politics and stone dredging and stuff like that,

0:47:490:47:53

but it does seem to me a bit worrying

0:47:530:47:55

that if they do dredge up this 140 square miles around here,

0:47:550:47:58

we're going to lose these sorts of things,

0:47:580:48:00

and the whelks and stuff, and that would be a bad, bad thing.

0:48:000:48:04

So, the White Fish Authority and everybody must get behind it

0:48:040:48:07

and make sure it doesn't happen, whoever the responsible people are.

0:48:070:48:10

Right, the mace - the powdered mace - black pepper

0:48:100:48:14

and then you simply pour in this wonderful melted butter

0:48:140:48:19

till it comes to the top, like that,

0:48:190:48:22

so that, when it sets, you have a golden crust of butter.

0:48:220:48:28

And we won't even bother to put that in the fridge.

0:48:280:48:30

I think we'll just leave it here for about an hour or two

0:48:300:48:32

and I'll have to take it on into the next cooking sketch

0:48:320:48:35

because it's ten to seven and although it's Norfolk,

0:48:350:48:38

they're open in a couple of minutes, so I'm off.

0:48:380:48:40

And so to the US base at Mildenhall

0:48:450:48:47

in my armoured potted shrimp carrier...

0:48:470:48:49

Brilliant piece of saluting, by the way.

0:48:490:48:51

..and a quick rundown on American food from Sergeant Joey Garcia.

0:48:510:48:55

If you're down in Florida and Georgia, the Kentucky area,

0:48:560:49:01

they have a tendency to make their fried chicken a little spicier.

0:49:010:49:05

Whereas compared to the north, it's more crispier

0:49:050:49:07

-and greasy foods up north.

-Yeah.

0:49:070:49:10

Then you head up towards the west

0:49:100:49:12

and they have a tendency to make chicken a little more extravagant,

0:49:120:49:15

like adding...sauteing in the...

0:49:150:49:17

Sauteing chicken and then frying it.

0:49:170:49:19

But me, I just eat. I eat anything. I love chicken.

0:49:200:49:24

Tell me, have you eaten any British food while you've been here?

0:49:240:49:29

Yeah, when I'm off duty.

0:49:290:49:30

I like to try different things,

0:49:300:49:32

like, I believe it's called Yorkshire pudding.

0:49:320:49:35

-Right.

-And the traditional Sunday English dinner.

0:49:350:49:39

Have a nice day.

0:49:510:49:53

It's brilliant, isn't it? The flying suit.

0:49:550:49:58

Getting into the American way of life is quite fantastic,

0:49:580:50:00

but also armed with the imperial British potted shrimps.

0:50:000:50:03

Anyway, I've never been to the States before.

0:50:030:50:05

This is the closest I've been to it for some real American cooking -

0:50:050:50:08

black-eyed beans, fried chicken and stuff like that - and I can't wait.

0:50:080:50:12

Far too hot in here for the flying suit,

0:50:170:50:19

but an American mint julep really cools you down.

0:50:190:50:21

I've some us chums here, one of whom is a sergeant.

0:50:210:50:24

-Sergeant, please.

-Yes?

-Sergeant Susan Locke, isn't it?

-Yes.

0:50:240:50:27

-What are you doing here?

-I'm cooking.

0:50:270:50:30

Right. What are you cooking? What are these things?

0:50:300:50:33

Richard, climb in behind our shoulders.

0:50:330:50:34

What is this lady doing, please?

0:50:340:50:36

You have to treat me as a simple English native, OK?

0:50:360:50:39

Cos I haven't been to America before.

0:50:390:50:41

She's doing Southern fried chicken with her own recipe.

0:50:410:50:44

What is special about your recipe?

0:50:440:50:46

-It's not her recipe. It's MY recipe.

-Oh, right. Sorry.

0:50:460:50:49

-We're doing the wrong person here.

-Right. What is your special recipe?

0:50:490:50:54

Tell me about it. SHE LAUGHS

0:50:540:50:57

My special recipe - what I do before

0:50:570:50:59

is after I clean the chicken and stuff,

0:50:590:51:01

-I marinate it in red pepper, a little ginger...

-Right.

0:51:010:51:06

..some hot sauce,

0:51:060:51:08

erm, white pepper and a little chicken base.

0:51:080:51:11

Marinate it in there.

0:51:110:51:13

Marinate it for a while and stick it in the walk-in refrigerator.

0:51:130:51:16

-Then, afterwards, I have egg wash and flour mixture.

-Right.

0:51:160:51:19

Just regular flour and egg wash milk in it.

0:51:190:51:22

And I dip the chicken in there, dip it in flour

0:51:220:51:25

-and then I double-dip it again, which makes it crunchy.

-Crunchy.

0:51:250:51:28

Brilliantly crunchy. Can I have a quick...?

0:51:280:51:30

Excuse me, I know this is going to deprive some poor airman, but...

0:51:300:51:34

THEY LAUGH

0:51:340:51:36

-Gosh!

-It's very good. It's really good.

0:51:360:51:41

-What's happening here?

-These are black-eyed peas.

0:51:410:51:43

What, from the song, like...?

0:51:430:51:45

It was the 3rd of June Another dusty Delta day.

0:51:450:51:47

-Isn't it?

-Yes, that's right.

0:51:470:51:48

Papa said, "Pass the black-eyed peas."

0:51:480:51:51

-And what else is in here?

-They're made with ham hocks and onions.

0:51:510:51:54

Then cooked for about eight hours in their own sauce.

0:51:560:51:59

That is fabulous.

0:51:590:52:00

This is...

0:52:000:52:02

Well, I mean, that is like a sort of cassoulet,

0:52:030:52:06

like a French dish of beans and pork and stuff.

0:52:060:52:08

I think it's absolutely fabulous.

0:52:080:52:10

I've been making these things, you see.

0:52:100:52:11

This is a very, very British kind of dish.

0:52:110:52:13

Richard knows I made it on a fishing trawler.

0:52:130:52:15

I actually went out and caught these myself,

0:52:150:52:17

shelled every single one of them, melted the butter in.

0:52:170:52:20

Look at that face.

0:52:200:52:21

I didn't do that to your okra and to your black-eyed peas.

0:52:210:52:24

Well, it might taste very good, but it just doesn't look very good.

0:52:240:52:27

Look, OK. These are what?

0:52:270:52:29

These, you've made. These are what, these?

0:52:290:52:31

-Corn breads.

-These are corn breads. Individual corn bread. Right.

0:52:310:52:34

And I reckon my potted shrimps on top of your corn bread

0:52:340:52:39

as a little aperitif to a meal...

0:52:390:52:41

..you would really enjoy them. I think you will.

0:52:420:52:44

And I'd like you to taste some and see. Now, it's perfectly OK.

0:52:440:52:48

If you say they're dreadful,

0:52:480:52:50

we will, of course, edit this whole sequence from...

0:52:500:52:53

-THEY LAUGH ..from the programme.

-Of course.

0:52:530:52:55

-Of course.

-You see, so... But tell me.

0:52:550:52:58

-Mm.

-See what you think.

-Is it really good?

-Mm.

0:52:580:53:02

These are cooked with...just boiled

0:53:030:53:05

and then mixed up with melted butter and mace and black pepper.

0:53:050:53:10

-It needs a little bit of salt.

-Tastes like shrimp.

0:53:100:53:12

-It's lovely, though.

-It does. Tastes just like shrimp.

0:53:120:53:15

The corn bread kind of overpowers it a little.

0:53:150:53:17

It is shrimp. Good.

0:53:170:53:19

-You don't need more salt, do you think?

-Yes, I do.

0:53:190:53:22

I don't think I'll open up a potted shrimp factory

0:53:220:53:24

in Memphis, Tennessee.

0:53:240:53:25

I think I'll go and have another mint julep

0:53:250:53:27

with some people who really appreciate me.

0:53:270:53:29

See you later, girls. Bye! THEY LAUGH

0:53:290:53:32

-Who was that schmuck?

-THEY LAUGH

0:53:330:53:36

BBC commissionaires would do well

0:53:370:53:39

to take this guy's correspondence course.

0:53:390:53:41

He's brilliant.

0:53:410:53:42

Even so, I feel a little hurt that my potted shrimps

0:53:420:53:44

didn't meet with Auntie Sam's approval.

0:53:440:53:46

I'd love to know what they were saying behind my back,

0:53:460:53:49

the little monkeys. Never mind.

0:53:490:53:51

I booked a table for lunch at Congham Hall,

0:53:510:53:53

cooked by ace chef Robert Harrison.

0:53:530:53:55

It's time in the programme for a piece of serious cooking

0:53:550:53:57

and I'm going to take a back seat here and let Robert,

0:53:570:54:00

my old mate, cook some scallops for us.

0:54:000:54:02

I know he's already got some chopped shallots,

0:54:020:54:04

little bits of chopped bacon.

0:54:040:54:05

That's a julienne of vegetables. What are the vegetables in there?

0:54:050:54:08

In this case, it's a mixture of peppers -

0:54:080:54:10

green, red, white peppers, carrots, celery, leeks.

0:54:100:54:13

But anything you want, really. Anything that takes your fancy.

0:54:130:54:15

Some fresh...

0:54:150:54:16

And that's the really good, exciting thing -

0:54:160:54:18

-fresh, chopped basil.

-That's the main ingredient.

0:54:180:54:21

-This is lime juice.

-That's right, yes.

-Lime juice.

0:54:210:54:23

And some excellent Norfolk fresh scallops

0:54:230:54:26

and a bit of Gewurztraminer, as the wine to do it.

0:54:260:54:29

So, what do we actually do?

0:54:290:54:31

-Right, shall I start cooking?

-Yes, please.

-OK.

0:54:310:54:33

You put the butter in the pan.

0:54:330:54:35

Get it very, very hot and we fry the shallots and the bacon.

0:54:350:54:37

Shallots first, and then the bacon. Very, very hot, but no colour.

0:54:370:54:41

It's very important.

0:54:410:54:42

Those have got to start off on their own before the bacon goes in.

0:54:420:54:45

-No, the bacon at the same time.

-Right.

0:54:450:54:47

-Lovely, and about half of that.

-And half.

0:54:470:54:49

-As quick as you can.

-Right, yes. HE LAUGHS

0:54:500:54:52

-So, really, really well. No colour whatsoever.

-Right.

0:54:540:54:57

So, now it's time for the scallops. Lightly season.

0:54:570:54:59

-Throw it in.

-You in on that, Richard?

0:55:030:55:05

Scallops, shallots and bacon at this stage.

0:55:070:55:09

Again, no colour, and we put the scallops until they're just opaque.

0:55:090:55:12

No more. Otherwise, they get very tough, very chewy.

0:55:120:55:15

-We fry them up quite well.

-Right.

0:55:170:55:19

And now the second main ingredient, the Gewurztraminer.

0:55:190:55:22

-And how much of that is that?

-Erm, more.

0:55:220:55:25

More, more. That's fine, that's fine.

0:55:270:55:29

-And the lime juice, please.

-The lime juice.

0:55:300:55:33

Whoa!

0:55:330:55:34

-Too much lime juice.

-I put too much lime juice in.

0:55:350:55:37

You'll be eating this, I take it.

0:55:370:55:40

So, at this stage, they're quite opaque.

0:55:400:55:42

They're fine. We take them out, keep them warm and later on,

0:55:420:55:46

-we can put them back in just to finish cooking.

-Right.

0:55:460:55:48

And, again, it's very important not to overcook scallops

0:55:480:55:51

or boil them, et cetera.

0:55:510:55:52

OK. So, those go to one side for the second.

0:55:530:55:56

They go to one side. We've reduced the liquid with that lime juice.

0:55:560:56:01

-Then we're going to add butter, as in a beurre blanc.

-Sure.

0:56:010:56:03

So, that sauce has now reduced, thanks to the magic of television,

0:56:030:56:07

and the next phase continues.

0:56:070:56:09

-With what? The julienne of...?

-Julienne of vegetables.

0:56:090:56:12

You know, I'm totally convinced that British chefs are in the ascendancy.

0:56:120:56:16

We're not so frightened of imitating the French and so on any more.

0:56:160:56:20

What's, in your mind, the state of British cooking?

0:56:200:56:23

I think, with all the local produce we're getting,

0:56:230:56:26

especially the young vegetables that are now being picked,

0:56:260:56:28

new suppliers coming along,

0:56:280:56:30

that's why, really, chefs are becoming better cooks, really.

0:56:300:56:33

-Because of the...?

-It's a matter of supply, I think.

0:56:330:56:36

Matters of supplies, yeah.

0:56:360:56:37

And the great interest taken, of course, by the suppliers,

0:56:370:56:40

by the cooks, the housewife now is going more involved

0:56:400:56:43

so they're demanding more all the time.

0:56:430:56:45

You've got it absolutely made, of course,

0:56:450:56:46

cos you can walk into the garden and pick whatever you like.

0:56:460:56:49

It's perfect. Excuse me.

0:56:490:56:51

What would you do if you weren't a chef?

0:56:510:56:53

Have you got something else you'd really like to do?

0:56:530:56:56

-I always wanted to be a writer.

-THEY LAUGH

0:56:560:56:58

So, the butter's in there, Richard, if you'd like to have a...

0:57:000:57:04

A very good look at that.

0:57:040:57:05

And just lier that with the liquid.

0:57:070:57:09

And there's no cream in there at all.

0:57:110:57:13

Just the sauce, which keeps it very velvety, very light.

0:57:130:57:16

No cream.

0:57:160:57:17

At that stage, we add scallops and the juices.

0:57:180:57:21

Just, again, reheat, finish their cooking process very carefully.

0:57:210:57:25

Do you have difficulty in getting people to work along with you?

0:57:260:57:30

Erm, no. I mean, the boys in the kitchen are very, very

0:57:300:57:34

into their food as well. They really enjoy it.

0:57:340:57:37

They show a lot of interest and they give me ideas too, of course.

0:57:370:57:40

-Oh, really?

-Lots of ideas, yes.

-What's the next phase?

0:57:400:57:42

The last thing is the basil, which I add at the end

0:57:420:57:45

so it tastes very fresh, very green.

0:57:450:57:47

The flavour really comes out. Lots of basil. I love it.

0:57:470:57:50

It's up to you.

0:57:520:57:53

Again, in the summer in the garden, we have red basil,

0:57:530:57:56

we have cinnamon-scented basil, lemon-scented basil.

0:57:560:57:58

It's lovely. You can just add a whole combination of flavours

0:57:580:58:01

just from one herb. It really is my favourite herb.

0:58:010:58:05

You need to be as much a gardener these days to be a cook

0:58:050:58:08

as anything else, don't you?

0:58:080:58:09

-A greedy gardener, yes.

-Greedy gardener.

0:58:090:58:12

You don't look a greedy man to me. You're quite...

0:58:120:58:15

Well, it's all the hard work picking the herbs.

0:58:150:58:18

-So, that's it.

-There we are.

0:58:180:58:20

So, whack it on down here. I'll pour some wine.

0:58:200:58:23

I think you deserve some. That looks a supreme dish to me.

0:58:230:58:26

So, just whack it on, as you say.

0:58:260:58:28

-You can smell the basil coming out.

-You certainly can.

0:58:330:58:36

I think the Gewurztraminer wine too,

0:58:360:58:38

it keeps its scent so well for cooking purposes.

0:58:380:58:40

-Some more sauce?

-Mm.

0:58:430:58:45

Now, this isn't actually a difficult dish to cook, is it?

0:58:470:58:50

I mean, there's an awful mystique which surrounds cooking.

0:58:500:58:54

Here's one dish which is simplicity itself, as long as what?

0:58:540:58:57

What are the golden rules for this dish?

0:58:570:58:58

You've got to watch a lot of people

0:58:580:59:00

put cream in beurre blanc to stop them curdling.

0:59:000:59:02

I just don't like cream in beurre blanc.

0:59:020:59:04

It must be very velvety, very light.

0:59:040:59:06

That's got to be watched, of course,

0:59:060:59:08

to make sure it doesn't curdle.

0:59:080:59:09

And just your own sense of flavour, really. The basil.

0:59:090:59:12

And the freshness of the herbs and the vegetables.

0:59:120:59:14

-That's essential, isn't it?

-Can I pinch some too?

-Ooh, sorry.

0:59:140:59:17

Again, not overcooking, keeping everything fresh -

0:59:190:59:22

that's why this is simple.

0:59:220:59:23

Very fresh, very light. Bit too much lime juice?

0:59:230:59:26

That was me. My fault.

0:59:260:59:27

It doesn't matter.

0:59:290:59:30

They can't taste it. HE LAUGHS

0:59:300:59:32

Timeless stuff. As ever on Best Bites,

0:59:370:59:39

we're looking back at some of the tastiest recipes

0:59:390:59:41

from the Saturday Kitchen archives. Still to come on today's Best Bites,

0:59:410:59:44

Angela Hartnett and Nathan Outlaw battle it out

0:59:440:59:47

at the Omelette Challenge hobs. But how will they both do?

0:59:470:59:49

We'll find out in just a few minutes' time.

0:59:490:59:52

Ben Tish is treating us to a tasty sharing platter,

0:59:520:59:54

ideal for Sunday lunch.

0:59:540:59:57

He marinates and roasts a leg of salt marsh lamb

0:59:570:59:59

and serves it with crispy artichokes and wild garlic pesto.

0:59:591:00:03

And Ben Fogle faces food heaven or food hell.

1:00:031:00:05

Would he get his food heaven -

1:00:051:00:07

a basil sorbet with blackberry and basil cream tart?

1:00:071:00:10

Or would he get his dreaded food hell -

1:00:101:00:12

smoked pancetta-wrapped watermelon with mozzarella

1:00:121:00:15

served with a watermelon-dressed salad?

1:00:151:00:17

You can find out what he gets to eat at the end of today's show.

1:00:171:00:20

Now, inspired by his time whilst training

1:00:201:00:22

at the amazing restaurant El Bulli, Jason Atherton is giving us

1:00:221:00:25

a taste of Spain next with some tasty red mullet.

1:00:251:00:28

Enjoy this one.

1:00:281:00:30

-So, what are we cooking?

-So, one of the dishes out in my new book.

1:00:301:00:32

It's a roasted red mullet with piperade,

1:00:321:00:34

-which we used to cook in Spain when I lived there...

-Yeah.

1:00:341:00:37

..candied aubergine with some little aubergine crisps

1:00:371:00:39

-and a little cress.

-You want me to get on with the aubergine.

1:00:391:00:42

-Going to peel the aubergine for this one?

-Please.

1:00:421:00:44

Coat it in a bit of sugar, lemon juice, thyme.

1:00:441:00:46

-I'm going to quickly prep the fish.

-OK.

1:00:461:00:48

-Now, you're using red mullet there.

-Yeah.

1:00:481:00:50

Two types of mullet that people can buy - the red or the grey.

1:00:501:00:53

Red's a totally different flavour.

1:00:531:00:54

This is more delicate where the grey is a bit more rustic

1:00:541:00:57

because it feeds on the bottom.

1:00:571:00:58

-Well, this does as well, but it's not quite as harsh.

-Yeah.

1:00:581:01:01

So, we're just going to move that over there.

1:01:011:01:03

So, tell us about your training when you trained in Spain.

1:01:031:01:06

Cos you trained at probably one of

1:01:061:01:08

-the greatest restaurants in the world.

-Yeah.

-El Bulli.

1:01:081:01:10

Ferran Adria is classed as one of the best chefs in the world

1:01:101:01:14

and I was sort of lucky enough, ten years ago, to train there

1:01:141:01:17

and, you know, learn from the master, really.

1:01:171:01:21

And it's paid dividends because, you know, Maze,

1:01:211:01:23

we follow the same ethos in the way we do the tapas-sized portions

1:01:231:01:28

and people have seven, eight, nine, ten courses

1:01:281:01:31

and it works really well.

1:01:311:01:32

-It's kind of like not sushi, but it's...

-It's not sushi, James.

1:01:321:01:36

No, but that style of eating where you just pick a plate.

1:01:361:01:39

-More like tasting plates.

-That's right, yeah.

1:01:391:01:42

People have...you can have one course at the bar, if you like,

1:01:421:01:44

and a glass of wine, but the idea is to come

1:01:441:01:47

and experience it on a more gourmet level.

1:01:471:01:48

So, you get a combination of all kinds of flavours all at once.

1:01:481:01:51

Absolutely. So, we're just taking the sliced red onion here.

1:01:511:01:55

Just roast it off with a little bit of the ras el hanout.

1:01:551:01:59

Tell us what that is.

1:01:591:02:01

It's like a Moroccan spice, basically.

1:02:011:02:02

It's a blend of, like, 26 to 28 different spices.

1:02:021:02:06

It's got, like, rose petals in there,

1:02:061:02:08

cinnamon, all that type of stuff.

1:02:081:02:09

I first started using it when I lived in Dubai

1:02:091:02:11

cos I lived there for three years.

1:02:111:02:13

And used to go down to the spice souks

1:02:131:02:16

and sort of mingled with all these different spices

1:02:161:02:19

and learned how to use them

1:02:191:02:20

and I found this and found it really fascinating.

1:02:201:02:22

-So, that goes in there.

-OK.

-Then we've got some chorizo sausage.

1:02:221:02:26

So, we've got lemon going on here, bit of garlic.

1:02:261:02:29

Then just, if you cover all that over,

1:02:291:02:32

bake it in the oven for about an hour and a half

1:02:321:02:34

and then we're going to caramelise it.

1:02:341:02:36

Obviously, we've got a little bit pre-done,

1:02:361:02:38

which we can blend in a minute, James, if you don't mind.

1:02:381:02:40

OK. This will all get straight in. Cover it with tinfoil?

1:02:401:02:43

Yeah, bake it in the oven.

1:02:431:02:45

We're just going to finish that in the blender

1:02:461:02:48

-with a little bit of hazelnut oil.

-OK.

1:02:481:02:51

-So...

-I shall do that.

1:02:511:02:53

-Thank you.

-We've got one that we've got in here.

1:02:531:02:55

All the recipes cooked in the studio,

1:02:551:02:57

including this one from Jason, are on our website.

1:02:571:02:59

Go to bbc.co.uk/food.

1:02:591:03:01

Right.

1:03:011:03:02

Bit of the aubergine in here, yeah?

1:03:031:03:06

-That's it. Put it in there. Then we're going to blend it.

-OK.

1:03:061:03:09

Quickly put the fish down.

1:03:091:03:11

So, I mentioned the fact that you've just opened

1:03:111:03:13

-a new restaurant as well.

-Yeah.

-Tell us a little bit about that.

1:03:131:03:16

You've got Maze and then kind of like next door...

1:03:161:03:20

Yeah, it's next door and is based on a New York-style grill restaurant.

1:03:201:03:25

And the idea is you come and choose your steak

1:03:251:03:27

or your salad or your starters

1:03:271:03:29

and we've got different breeds from all round the world,

1:03:291:03:32

from some rare-breed British meat, some American beef,

1:03:321:03:35

some Kobe and Wagyu from Australia and Japan.

1:03:351:03:38

You know, you've got your sides and then your...

1:03:381:03:40

It's the complete opposite to what Maze is.

1:03:401:03:42

Cos Maze is the small portions. This is, like, big portions.

1:03:421:03:46

So, where do you get your inspiration from? Is it still Spain?

1:03:461:03:49

For that restaurant, it's from New York.

1:03:491:03:51

I'm a big fan of New York. I really love their restaurants

1:03:511:03:54

and the way they dine out and stuff, you know.

1:03:541:03:57

But for Maze, it heads more towards Europe, Spain, Italy, France.

1:03:571:04:02

You've expanded. Maze is not just in the UK now, is it?

1:04:021:04:05

-It's now abroad.

-Yeah, it's gone global, as they say.

1:04:051:04:07

We're now in New York, we're in Prague

1:04:071:04:10

and we're looking at Berlin next year.

1:04:101:04:12

And we're doing Qatar at the end of the year.

1:04:121:04:15

-And if you're not busy enough, a book as well.

-That's right, yeah.

1:04:151:04:18

So, we've done the cookbook.

1:04:181:04:20

You think your 180 for breakfast is a doddle. This is, you know...

1:04:201:04:23

So, I'm just basically making these little crisps with the aubergine.

1:04:241:04:29

-Nice and thinly sliced.

-That's it. Nice and thin, please.

1:04:291:04:32

We're going to quickly deep-fry them.

1:04:321:04:33

The stew's coming along nicely. When we used to make this in Spain,

1:04:331:04:36

we used to do it for the staff lunch at El Bulli and we'd make...

1:04:361:04:39

-Staff lunch?

-Staff lunch, yeah. That's where I got the inspiration.

1:04:391:04:42

What we'd do is then crack eggs into the pan

1:04:421:04:45

and then just bake them in the oven and then set it.

1:04:451:04:47

-This? This one?

-This one, yeah.

1:04:471:04:49

And then the chef always used to have to taste it first.

1:04:491:04:51

If it wasn't good enough for the chef, it went in the dustbin.

1:04:511:04:54

I remember making a rabbit stew once.

1:04:541:04:56

-I'll taste it in a minute.

-You'll have to tell me, chef.

1:04:561:04:59

I've had some dodgy staff food in my time.

1:04:591:05:01

So, what's that you put in there?

1:05:011:05:03

That's just a little bit of tomato fondue.

1:05:031:05:05

We've put a little bit of spicy ketchup in.

1:05:051:05:07

So, if you can't find spicy ketchup, bit of chilli,

1:05:071:05:09

-bit of tomato ketchup would do?

-That's right, yeah.

1:05:091:05:11

These peppers are great, aren't they?

1:05:111:05:13

You can buy them in delicatessens, these wood-roasted peppers.

1:05:131:05:16

Yeah, they're great.

1:05:161:05:17

Even the ones in the restaurant, we buy them in,

1:05:171:05:20

-the pimento peppers in the tins.

-Yeah.

1:05:201:05:21

But the flavour's just incredible.

1:05:211:05:23

And you only get them for a short time of the year.

1:05:231:05:25

We're just going to put a bit of oil in.

1:05:251:05:27

-If you could shake that pan for me, James.

-Here we go.

-That's great.

1:05:271:05:30

So, I mentioned your book just briefly. What's it about?

1:05:321:05:35

The idea behind the cookbook is...

1:05:351:05:37

It's like a limited selection of recipes?

1:05:371:05:39

There's 30 recipes from Maze. All the signature dishes from Maze.

1:05:391:05:42

And the idea is then that, with your leftovers, I show you

1:05:421:05:45

how to create two dishes what you can use more for the home cook.

1:05:451:05:49

So, you have one sort of Michelin-star recipe, if you like,

1:05:491:05:52

and then a home-style recipe for the home cook.

1:05:521:05:55

-There you go. Olive stones.

-There you go. That's the leftovers.

1:05:551:05:59

-We should do a book together, James.

-Yeah.

1:05:591:06:01

-You just throw in the coriander last minute?

-That's right.

1:06:011:06:05

That's now ready. We'll move that.

1:06:051:06:07

-And the red mullet doesn't take very long at all, does it?

-No.

1:06:071:06:09

That can go off.

1:06:091:06:11

-You're looking at what? A couple of minutes, no more?

-Yeah, no more.

1:06:111:06:15

They obviously should just fry up.

1:06:151:06:16

If you've got a deep-fat fryer at home, then literally,

1:06:161:06:19

you just want to cook those about 180, something like that.

1:06:191:06:22

So, this can go straight on the plate, the puree.

1:06:221:06:26

You class this as what? Aubergine caviar?

1:06:271:06:29

Yeah, it is, but it's a lot sweeter because it's, like...

1:06:291:06:32

Cos we've baked it with sugar and lime

1:06:321:06:35

and all that type of stuff.

1:06:351:06:36

You think the idea of caviar is just a cream, I suppose?

1:06:361:06:38

Yeah, I don't know where they get the word caviar from because...

1:06:381:06:41

-It's the seeds in the aubergine.

-Is that where it's from, is it?

1:06:411:06:44

-There you go, Lawrence.

-There you go.

1:06:441:06:46

-I'm just going to pop...

-We should lift off these.

1:06:481:06:50

I'm just going to put the fish on top.

1:06:501:06:51

Extra fish on that.

1:06:531:06:55

-These chips look good.

-Little coriander shoots.

1:06:551:06:58

-What are you putting on there?

-Some little coriander shoots.

-Right.

1:06:581:07:01

Those little touches, James,

1:07:011:07:03

-is what gets those Michelin stars, yeah?

-This is the one.

1:07:031:07:06

-Poncey food, that's what they call it, Lawrence.

-Yeah.

1:07:071:07:10

-Michelin star, isn't it, James? Not Eurostar.

-Exactly.

1:07:101:07:12

There you go. Bit of salt.

1:07:141:07:15

-A little bit of olive oil on top to glaze it.

-There we go.

1:07:151:07:19

Some little crisps, and that's it.

1:07:191:07:22

So, remind us what that is again.

1:07:221:07:23

That's our roasted red mullet, Spanish piperade stew,

1:07:231:07:26

aubergine caviar and some little garnishes on top.

1:07:261:07:29

How delicious does that look?

1:07:291:07:30

That actually looks fantastic.

1:07:361:07:37

Probably one of the best-looking dishes we've had.

1:07:371:07:39

There we go. Come on over, Jase.

1:07:391:07:41

-No offence to your breakfast, Lawrence.

-No offence taken.

1:07:411:07:44

-There you go. Dive into that.

-Thank you.

1:07:441:07:46

This, I know, is good cos we tried this in rehearsal.

1:07:461:07:49

-That spice makes all the difference.

-A big difference.

1:07:491:07:51

Especially when you cook it out with the peppers.

1:07:511:07:53

-It's really tasty.

-That's what I'm interested to taste.

1:07:531:07:56

Tell us what you think of that one.

1:07:561:07:57

-Mm. It's perfect.

-Good, Sarah? Thumbs up?

1:07:581:08:01

Thumbs up. That is absolutely perfect.

1:08:011:08:03

There you go. Need to learn to get a bigger mouthful

1:08:031:08:06

cos it never comes back. But if you couldn't get red mullet -

1:08:061:08:09

it's quite difficult for people to get a hold of -

1:08:091:08:11

what fish could you use?

1:08:111:08:12

Sea bass, sea bream, anything like that, really.

1:08:121:08:14

-Anything with scales on.

-Anything with scales on.

1:08:141:08:17

Narrows it down a bit, doesn't it? THEY LAUGH

1:08:171:08:19

Guys, Lawrence, dive in.

1:08:191:08:21

-I think that spice does make all the difference.

-Ooh, yes.

1:08:211:08:24

-It's still in my mouth. It's gorgeous.

-Great aftertaste.

1:08:241:08:27

-See you later.

-He's happy. THEY LAUGH

1:08:281:08:30

Such a delicate dish and packed full of flavour.

1:08:351:08:38

Now, Nathan Outlaw didn't get off to the smoothest of starts

1:08:381:08:41

when he faced Angela Hartnett at the Omelette Challenge hobs.

1:08:411:08:44

But would he be able to scramble his way in front? Let's find out.

1:08:441:08:48

Right, let's get down to business.

1:08:481:08:49

Usual rules apply - three-egg omelette challenge.

1:08:491:08:52

Now, timing-wise, Angela's on about 58 minutes down there.

1:08:521:08:56

-Minutes?!

-58, yeah.

1:08:561:08:57

However, Nathan, down there - 22 seconds.

1:08:581:09:01

You could make three by that time.

1:09:011:09:03

-He's so sly.

-There you go.

-Sleeves are rolled up, he's all ready.

1:09:031:09:06

Honestly, he's pretending.

1:09:061:09:08

Usual rules apply. Three-egg omelette.

1:09:081:09:10

-Put your butter back.

-She's started already.

1:09:101:09:12

Stop cheating. Are you ready?

1:09:121:09:13

-I thought you were going to be a lady.

-Three, two, one, go!

1:09:131:09:16

A lady?

1:09:161:09:17

Oh, no. What am I doing? I'm doing the wrong plate.

1:09:181:09:21

Oh, no.

1:09:231:09:25

Come on, Nathan! You can...

1:09:251:09:27

Oh, no, it's starting to stick and do all that nonsense.

1:09:301:09:32

-Oh, he's caught you up.

-Oh, no!

-Make sure it's an omelette.

1:09:321:09:36

Yeah, get off the stove.

1:09:361:09:38

-This is scrambled eggs!

-Oh, no.

1:09:381:09:41

-No, you don't!

-No, I can't.

-Don't even think about it.

1:09:421:09:45

I'm going to make nice scrambled eggs with cheese.

1:09:451:09:48

That's how it's going to be now

1:09:481:09:49

because it hasn't quite turned out to be an omelette.

1:09:491:09:53

Please, God, none of my chefs are watching this.

1:09:531:09:56

It'd just be too embarrassing.

1:09:561:09:57

I think that will taste nicer than Nathan's.

1:09:571:09:59

-GONG CHIMES

-It's cooked.

1:09:591:10:01

-You'd rather eat that, wouldn't you?

-Look at that.

-Zoe, come and decide.

1:10:011:10:04

-Don't let James decide.

-Oh, really? Let me have a look.

1:10:041:10:07

-Perfect, isn't it?

-If it's down to presentation...

1:10:071:10:10

No, that's baveuse. That's OK.

1:10:101:10:13

-Is it properly cooked?

-Yeah, it's all right.

1:10:131:10:15

-The butter's a garnish.

-OK, I see.

1:10:151:10:18

-This one...

-Can I try a bit?

-This one's, you know...

1:10:191:10:23

He's getting me back for the pink jokes, I know it.

1:10:231:10:25

This is revenge.

1:10:251:10:27

Danny, are you sure you don't want some of this?

1:10:271:10:30

You confused us. You went once and twice.

1:10:301:10:32

-Hmm, that's lovely(!)

-THEY LAUGH

1:10:321:10:34

-Angela's time?

-Mm, delicious.

-Like, nine hours or something.

1:10:341:10:38

-Do you think you beat your time, Angela?

-No. Without doubt, no.

1:10:381:10:42

-You did.

-Did I?

-Quicker.

-Wow.

-Yeah, you even surprised me and all.

1:10:421:10:46

What did I do last time?

1:10:461:10:48

You did it in 44.92 seconds.

1:10:481:10:51

Nobody's applauding because it's still not an omelette.

1:10:531:10:56

-Nathan...

-I fooled myself.

-No, it's not faster.

1:10:561:10:59

-I've been pushed off.

-Is he on the blue?

1:11:021:11:04

-You were closely beating your time.

-Oh.

1:11:041:11:07

You did it in 24.04 seconds.

1:11:071:11:11

-Nice. Well done.

-Come on, Nathan.

-Not fast enough.

1:11:111:11:14

You stay where you are. What are you applauding for?

1:11:141:11:16

-It was terrible.

-Both were useless.

1:11:161:11:17

You certainly won't make it onto the board with omelettes like those.

1:11:221:11:25

Now, next up, with something a little different

1:11:251:11:28

to his usual offering of tasty tapas is the brilliant Ben Tish.

1:11:281:11:31

He's plating up a perfect alternative to a Sunday roast.

1:11:311:11:35

What are you going to do with it, Ben? Salt marsh lamb.

1:11:351:11:37

We're doing something a bit different.

1:11:371:11:39

Normally, I do tapas when I come on,

1:11:391:11:41

but salt marsh lamb - beautiful leg here.

1:11:411:11:43

We're going to give it a marinade and then we're going to roast it,

1:11:431:11:46

do some crispy violet artichokes with it.

1:11:461:11:49

-You want me to do these?

-If you could prep those for me.

1:11:491:11:51

-Got some lemon there.

-These ones are deep-fried?

1:11:511:11:53

Yeah, deep-fried or you could shallow-fry them in olive oil,

1:11:531:11:57

just so you get a nice caramelisation,

1:11:571:11:58

-brown crispiness.

-Sounds good.

1:11:581:12:00

Now, there's no need to take the heart out of these small ones.

1:12:001:12:03

No, no, they're nice and tender. Exactly.

1:12:031:12:05

So, tell us about salt marsh lamb, then. Why is it so good?

1:12:051:12:07

Well, I think it's just got a really interesting flavour

1:12:071:12:10

and it's... You know, they graze on salt marshes,

1:12:101:12:14

so they take in some of the brininess,

1:12:141:12:16

the seawater in there.

1:12:161:12:17

It just gives it a subtle flavour and I think it's delicious.

1:12:171:12:20

-This one - probably Essex, that way?

-I think it's Essex, yeah.

1:12:201:12:24

That's certainly where we get most of ours from.

1:12:241:12:26

Hang on, James. We get them in Norfolk as well.

1:12:261:12:28

I know you do. We know about Norfolk.

1:12:281:12:31

We'll get onto Norfolk a little bit later.

1:12:311:12:33

And Lincolnshire, indeed.

1:12:331:12:34

So, anyway, just quickly, for the marinade,

1:12:341:12:36

I've got some garlic here.

1:12:361:12:38

I've already seasoned the lamb,

1:12:381:12:39

given it a bit of salt and pepper on there.

1:12:391:12:41

It's interesting, when you travel over that area as well,

1:12:411:12:44

it was also famous for anchovies way back as well.

1:12:441:12:47

-What's that, sorry?

-That area,

1:12:471:12:49

sort of the estuary there, was famous for anchovies.

1:12:491:12:51

-Really? Interesting.

-But the salt marsh is fantastic.

1:12:511:12:54

Yeah, they're really, really good.

1:12:541:12:55

But it changes the colour of the meat as well.

1:12:551:12:57

We talked about that. It does change the colour of it slightly.

1:12:571:13:00

-Yeah, I think it makes it a bit paler, doesn't it?

-Yeah.

1:13:001:13:03

So, got some lemon zest in there as well.

1:13:031:13:06

These are all kind of nice, punchy flavours

1:13:061:13:09

that I like to use.

1:13:091:13:11

-So, some nice zest in there.

-You mentioned this is not tapas.

1:13:111:13:14

Is this a new thing for you?

1:13:141:13:15

Are you going into the restaurant business

1:13:151:13:17

or are you going to stick with your tapas bars?

1:13:171:13:19

Well, I mean, tapas is great

1:13:191:13:21

and there's always going to be room for tapas.

1:13:211:13:23

I don't think it's...it's not a faddish thing.

1:13:231:13:26

It's a great way of eating. I know you enjoy it.

1:13:261:13:28

Yeah, it's great.

1:13:281:13:29

But at Ember Yard, we've kind of, which is the newest place we opened,

1:13:291:13:34

we've started to do larger dishes to share.

1:13:341:13:36

One of the reasons behind that - we've got some cooking kit,

1:13:361:13:39

-like a Josper that you put larger cuts in.

-Yeah.

1:13:391:13:42

And they just benefit. They benefit.

1:13:421:13:44

That's one of those charcoal oven things.

1:13:441:13:45

Yeah, charcoal oven things, which are great.

1:13:451:13:48

But, yeah, I think it's nice.

1:13:481:13:49

You know, and so we have a section on the menu

1:13:491:13:51

with larger cuts to share, so, yeah.

1:13:511:13:53

So, anyway, just got some fresh chilli in there, some dried chilli.

1:13:531:13:56

I'm just going to add some...some mint onto there,

1:13:561:14:01

stalks and all.

1:14:011:14:02

-We've got a pesto that you want me to make as well.

-Yeah, please.

1:14:021:14:05

So, we've got some beautiful, in-season, wild garlic, which is...

1:14:051:14:08

If you haven't used it before, try it.

1:14:101:14:12

It's got the garlic flavour, but it's fresher, isn't it?

1:14:121:14:15

I don't know whether you've actually...

1:14:151:14:16

Smell that garlic.

1:14:161:14:17

If you break the leaves and smell it, it's...

1:14:171:14:20

It's quite strong.

1:14:211:14:23

-Very strong.

-Yeah.

-It's super seasonal.

1:14:231:14:25

It's around for about six to eight weeks,

1:14:251:14:27

something like that. Some anchovies in there as well.

1:14:271:14:30

Work really, really well with lamb.

1:14:301:14:32

You can go foraging for this stuff. You know, it is around there.

1:14:321:14:35

-Yeah, that's it.

-When you're driving along in your car

1:14:351:14:37

and you can smell it, that's what it'll be.

1:14:371:14:39

And if you leave it later on in the season,

1:14:391:14:41

-you get the little white flowers.

-It's amazing stuff.

1:14:411:14:44

So, anyway, the marinade on there.

1:14:441:14:46

Get some oil on there. Just rub it all in.

1:14:461:14:48

And you want to give this a few hours.

1:14:481:14:50

Ideally, I think overnight, if you can get round to doing it.

1:14:501:14:55

Plan yourself accordingly. Do it overnight.

1:14:551:14:57

But three, four hours - something like that should be OK.

1:14:571:15:00

Now, you've put the anchovies on there cos, of course,

1:15:001:15:02

anchovies can be great inside the meat as well, which is lovely.

1:15:021:15:05

Exactly. So, give that a nice rub in, like so.

1:15:051:15:09

So, this pesto we've got, the wild garlic,

1:15:091:15:11

you're just going to use it as that.

1:15:111:15:12

Wild garlic. Got some parsley in there as well.

1:15:121:15:15

Parsley will give it...just kind of balance it out a bit.

1:15:151:15:17

Just pop this in the fridge.

1:15:171:15:19

You need to marinate that for how long?

1:15:201:15:22

Yeah, so, overnight, ideally.

1:15:221:15:24

You know, three to four hours will give you some good flavour.

1:15:241:15:28

So...here's one we've got and then what I'm going to do now...

1:15:281:15:32

-Thanks, James.

-There you go.

1:15:321:15:34

-Engelbert likes the garlic, boys.

-Pardon?

1:15:341:15:37

-Nice.

-Engelbert likes the garlic.

-You like the wild garlic, do you?

1:15:371:15:40

-Love it.

-It's amazing stuff.

-Just give me a second.

1:15:401:15:42

I'll take these out and you've got some oil.

1:15:421:15:44

You can explain what these are.

1:15:441:15:46

These can be great tapas as they are.

1:15:461:15:48

Yeah, no, they're brilliant. They're really good. Some here.

1:15:481:15:51

And when you're roasting a leg of lamb like this,

1:15:541:15:56

it's important to seal it beforehand.

1:15:561:15:58

-Get the colour.

-Yeah.

-And then you can put it in the oven.

1:15:581:16:02

Don't need to give it too long in the oven so it stays nice and pink.

1:16:021:16:05

That's really important, rather than just shoving it in.

1:16:051:16:08

-You brown it and the meat's overcooked.

-Yeah.

1:16:081:16:11

A little bit of salt on these. Touches...

1:16:111:16:13

A little bit of lemon juice just to sharpen them up

1:16:131:16:15

and they'll be ready to go.

1:16:151:16:16

Just on their own, that's a great little starter, isn't it?

1:16:161:16:19

Get that out of the way.

1:16:191:16:21

So, yeah, we've got the pesto. In here, we've got the parsley.

1:16:231:16:26

-As I say, that balances the wild garlic out.

-Yeah.

1:16:261:16:29

Otherwise, it'd be too strong on its own.

1:16:291:16:31

And then you've got your pine nuts, Parmesan there -

1:16:311:16:33

-classic pesto ingredients.

-Is that vinegar you've got in there?

1:16:331:16:36

A little bit of vinegar.

1:16:361:16:38

I think that's muscatel vinegar we're using there.

1:16:381:16:40

-Little bit of lemon juice just to sharpen it up.

-OK.

1:16:401:16:43

-Bit of that in there.

-Yeah.

1:16:431:16:44

You want to keep it quite rustic, is that right?

1:16:441:16:46

Want to keep it rustic, yeah.

1:16:461:16:48

Bit of texture to it. Not too smooth.

1:16:481:16:50

OK. Right, that's that.

1:16:501:16:52

-So, I'll put some olive oil in it.

-Yeah.

1:16:531:16:56

That's it. So, we get the nice caramelisation on there

1:16:561:16:59

-and then we've sealed this off.

-Yeah.

-You see?

1:16:591:17:02

-That's looking good.

-This is just for colour?

1:17:021:17:04

-That's all you're doing this for?

-Just for colour.

1:17:041:17:06

Just to get a nice crust on there.

1:17:061:17:08

You'll crisp all that marinade on the exterior.

1:17:081:17:12

It'll be really, really good.

1:17:121:17:14

-So, salt, lemon juice?

-Salt, lemon juice.

1:17:141:17:16

You've got the bit of lemon in there and the vinegar.

1:17:161:17:19

-In there.

-Into there. We're going to stick this in the oven now.

1:17:191:17:22

How long would you cook that for, then? For a whole leg, like this?

1:17:241:17:27

Sealed off like that, probably 45 to 50 minutes.

1:17:271:17:30

But then what you need to do - really important -

1:17:301:17:33

-is rest the meat afterwards.

-Right.

1:17:331:17:34

You'll probably rest it for about half an hour, and that way,

1:17:341:17:37

all the juices kind of go back into the meat

1:17:371:17:40

and it'll be all evenly coloured and delicious.

1:17:401:17:42

-We've got one here...you can see.

-Yeah.

1:17:421:17:46

So, nicely caramelised. All the juice has come back out.

1:17:461:17:49

You've got all these delicious roasting juices in there

1:17:491:17:51

and that'll be nice and evenly coloured.

1:17:511:17:53

A good tip is leaving it on the bone will actually make it cook quicker.

1:17:531:17:57

Yeah, once the heat gets into the bone,

1:17:571:17:58

it kind of conducts all the way through it, doesn't it?

1:17:581:18:01

Yeah, cooks it nice and evenly.

1:18:011:18:03

-I'll let you slice whatever you need to slice.

-OK.

1:18:031:18:05

This pesto, you just want it quite...?

1:18:051:18:07

-Yeah, quite rustic like that.

-Rustic or chunky?

-Chunky, I think.

1:18:071:18:13

-Chunky's a nice word.

-Chunky, rustic, whatever.

1:18:131:18:16

Whatever you like. Let's have a taste.

1:18:161:18:17

-I haven't seasoned it yet.

-OK.

1:18:171:18:19

-Happy with that?

-Yeah, really, really good.

1:18:211:18:23

I don't think it needs that much.

1:18:231:18:25

You've got the anchovies in there as well.

1:18:251:18:26

But with the wild garlic, if you get some of this,

1:18:261:18:29

you can actually freeze it in some butter.

1:18:291:18:31

-It keeps really well.

-Yeah.

-Lovely.

-Cool. Let's go.

1:18:311:18:33

What temperature do you have your oven at, Ben? Sorry.

1:18:351:18:38

-It was on about...

-It was pretty hot.

-Yeah, pretty hot.

1:18:381:18:41

I think it was about 220, something like that.

1:18:411:18:43

Look at that. It's lovely.

1:18:441:18:46

-The other side might be a bit easier.

-Yeah, that's it.

1:18:471:18:50

A few lovely slices.

1:18:521:18:54

You do pay extra for the salt marsh lamb, but it's worth it.

1:18:541:18:56

It's worth it. The flavour's there. It's really...

1:18:561:18:59

I'd say the flavour is really subtle.

1:18:591:19:01

There we go. That looks brilliant.

1:19:011:19:03

Beautifully cooked. Very happy with that.

1:19:041:19:07

-Nice one, James.

-These?

-Yeah.

1:19:071:19:10

So, just a few of these on the side.

1:19:101:19:13

Again, if you're serving this for Sunday lunch,

1:19:131:19:15

you'd have different dishes, I guess.

1:19:151:19:17

You just kind of help yourself.

1:19:171:19:19

And then this beautiful, vibrant pesto on the side.

1:19:191:19:23

There we go.

1:19:241:19:26

-That's brilliant.

-Then I've got some of this liquor from here.

-Yeah.

1:19:271:19:31

-Just get some of this.

-Yeah, a bit of that over.

1:19:311:19:33

Finish with a bit of sea salt.

1:19:331:19:35

-That's lovely. Thank you very much.

-Give us the name of this dish, then.

1:19:361:19:40

We've got marinated and roasted salt marsh lamb leg,

1:19:401:19:43

crispy artichokes and a beautiful wild garlic pesto.

1:19:431:19:46

-And not a mark on his velvet jacket.

-Not a mark.

-That's brave.

1:19:461:19:49

-Yeah, that is brave indeed.

-Check that out.

1:19:491:19:51

Looks good to me. Let's see what you think of it over here.

1:19:561:20:00

The lovely artichokes. Dive in.

1:20:011:20:03

Tell us what you think. Salt marsh lamb.

1:20:031:20:06

-Please.

-Pardon?

-You get to taste it.

-I get to taste it?

-Yeah.

1:20:061:20:10

So, that pesto as well,

1:20:101:20:12

you want to make sure it's not too pureed.

1:20:121:20:14

Not too pureed. I mean, yeah, a bit of texture.

1:20:141:20:17

-I have to eat the ends because it's raw.

-It's raw?

1:20:171:20:21

-You want it more well-cooked?

-I like it cooked, yeah.

1:20:211:20:23

He likes it cooked.

1:20:231:20:24

-Make sure that lamb's cooked later on.

-Yeah, yeah.

1:20:241:20:27

Extra hour in the oven if you want that.

1:20:271:20:29

You want it about...

1:20:291:20:30

If you want it well done, an hour and a half?

1:20:301:20:32

An hour and a half, something like that.

1:20:321:20:35

You should have had that bit.

1:20:351:20:37

There, you see.

1:20:371:20:39

-The end bits are always a bit more well done.

-Happy?

1:20:391:20:41

-That's OK.

-It's OK. THEY LAUGH

1:20:411:20:43

You can't please everybody, Ben, but I thought it tasted delicious.

1:20:481:20:52

Now, when Ben Fogle came to the studio to face his food heaven

1:20:521:20:55

or dreaded food hell, he certainly wanted his bets placed

1:20:551:20:58

on basil over watermelon.

1:20:581:21:00

But did the odds swing in his favour?

1:21:001:21:02

Let's find out.

1:21:021:21:03

Right, now it's a chance to find out whether Ben will be facing

1:21:031:21:06

his idea of food heaven or food hell.

1:21:061:21:08

Everyone in the studio has made their minds up.

1:21:081:21:10

Ben, just to remind you, your version of food heaven - basil.

1:21:101:21:13

Food heaven? Oh, look at it.

1:21:131:21:14

Could be basil transformed into a delicious sorbet

1:21:141:21:16

served with a nice little tart - blackberry tart.

1:21:161:21:19

Lovely with a little basil custard inside it

1:21:191:21:21

-and then baked, served hot.

-Tummy's rumbling already.

1:21:211:21:24

Alternatively, the dreaded food heaven - watermelon.

1:21:241:21:27

Look at it. It looks very enticing, but we know, beneath that,

1:21:271:21:30

-just water and seeds.

-Pan-fried with mozzarella -

1:21:301:21:32

that's your idea of food hell. Watermelon.

1:21:321:21:34

Lovely little dressing to go with that

1:21:341:21:36

with some sherry vinegar and a nice little salad.

1:21:361:21:38

-Yes.

-You could serve a telephone directory with that.

1:21:381:21:41

How do you think these lot have voted in the end?

1:21:411:21:43

I'd like to think we're all friends

1:21:431:21:44

and everyone's going to give me my food heaven.

1:21:441:21:46

-I can tell you it was a close one.

-OK.

1:21:461:21:48

-Four-three, were the votes.

-Yeah.

1:21:481:21:51

-And they've chosen food hell.

-Oh, you mean people!

1:21:511:21:55

She's happy, look. Both of these chose food hell.

1:21:551:21:58

The idea was, the only reason I chose it

1:21:581:21:59

-is because I want to be converted to the watermelon.

-Well, hopefully.

1:21:591:22:03

We can get rid of these lot out of the way. Now, fruit.

1:22:031:22:05

-You're a big fan of watermelon, obviously.

-I am.

1:22:051:22:08

You mentioned it was from Africa, the home of the watermelon.

1:22:081:22:10

It's fantastic stuff.

1:22:101:22:11

But what we're going to do is I'm going to get you

1:22:111:22:14

to take a quarter of this watermelon.

1:22:141:22:16

And then, if I give you that...

1:22:161:22:17

I only want about a quarter.

1:22:171:22:19

..just peel and then we can turn that into a dressing.

1:22:191:22:22

I'm going to take some watermelon here.

1:22:221:22:25

Now, Matthew, if you can pick me some spinach, that would be great.

1:22:251:22:28

-Can I put them into there?

-Yeah, absolutely.

-Right you are.

1:22:281:22:31

This is cooked watermelon, this one,

1:22:311:22:33

so it's slightly unusual to the norm.

1:22:331:22:35

See, there isn't even a scent coming off it.

1:22:351:22:38

Usually, when you open a fruit, you get a beautiful waft.

1:22:381:22:42

-A beautiful waft? You get nothing.

-"A waft."

1:22:421:22:44

-If it isn't your mouth watering...

-It's delicious.

1:22:441:22:48

I like mozzarella, so I'm excited about that.

1:22:481:22:51

There you go. Basically, we're going to use this mozzarella.

1:22:511:22:54

-This is buffalo mozzarella.

-Pieces like that?

-That's OK.

1:22:541:22:56

We're going to blend that one so it doesn't really...

1:22:561:22:59

Shall I add some of these other leaves as well?

1:22:591:23:01

We've got some baby spinach there, a bit of rocket.

1:23:011:23:04

-And some watercress.

-Some watercress.

1:23:041:23:06

Which I think, actually, in the 19th century,

1:23:061:23:08

this was the British equivalent to rocket, you know.

1:23:081:23:10

It has that same peppery, lively quality.

1:23:101:23:12

I love it. I just love a little bit of watercress.

1:23:121:23:14

Open your mouth.

1:23:141:23:15

I'm about to start the conversion of Matthew Fort to watermelon.

1:23:151:23:19

-Dear heaven help me.

-THEY LAUGH

1:23:211:23:24

Couldn't say anything else, though.

1:23:241:23:26

-Under the circumstances.

-What am I doing?

1:23:261:23:28

-It's going into a blender.

-Put a bit of oil in there.

1:23:281:23:30

Tell me how much.

1:23:301:23:31

-Do you want the seeds out?

-A little bit being...?

1:23:311:23:33

Go on, bit more. That's it. That's enough.

1:23:331:23:36

The seeds are OK, actually, in there cos what we're going to do

1:23:361:23:38

is blitz it and then pass the seeds off as well.

1:23:381:23:40

What we're going to do is I've got some pancetta,

1:23:401:23:43

some mozzarella, which has been in the news recently.

1:23:431:23:45

Yes, for not very good reasons.

1:23:451:23:47

No, not great reasons, but they've found that it could have been what?

1:23:471:23:51

Because they've been burying toxic waste in Campania and odd places,

1:23:511:23:55

it found its way into the porridge that the water buffalo feed on

1:23:551:23:58

and that actually has ended up in the milk, so they think.

1:23:581:24:01

So, that's why it's glowing. But it's good for you, don't worry.

1:24:011:24:05

Do you know, it's just reminded me.

1:24:051:24:07

When I was a child, I used to eat watermelon.

1:24:071:24:09

I was convinced if I ate one of the pips,

1:24:091:24:11

-a watermelon tree would grow inside me.

-Really?

1:24:111:24:14

Maybe that's one of the reasons why...

1:24:141:24:16

-That's what's left you mentally scarred.

-Yeah, I think so.

1:24:161:24:19

Now, what we're going to do - hot pan...

1:24:191:24:21

This is a great dinner party dish

1:24:211:24:23

cos what you can do is you can make this in advance.

1:24:231:24:25

-Or not you. Your wife can make this in advance.

-No, I'm going to try.

1:24:251:24:29

-You're going to try?

-Yeah.

-Then you can just literally pan-fry this.

1:24:291:24:32

It needs to be hot. I feel like I'm Keith Floyd here,

1:24:321:24:34

but it needs to be searingly hot

1:24:341:24:36

cos you need to get that pancetta crisp.

1:24:361:24:38

If you can then pop... That's it.

1:24:381:24:39

Pass that through there. That'd be great.

1:24:391:24:41

Going to make a little dressing to go with this.

1:24:411:24:43

The secret of this is get it lovely and crisp.

1:24:431:24:45

That's why you use pancetta.

1:24:451:24:47

It's that beautiful cured sort of belly pork.

1:24:471:24:50

-It also adds that bit of saltiness too.

-It's wonderful.

1:24:501:24:53

Watermelon will need every single help it can get

1:24:531:24:57

to rescue it from well-deserved oblivion.

1:24:571:25:00

But what we do is just burn the fat and it caramelises.

1:25:001:25:02

See the natural sugars in the watermelon?

1:25:021:25:04

It's starting to caramelise. Turn that off the heat now.

1:25:041:25:07

You can guess he's desperate, the way he's talking it up all the time.

1:25:071:25:10

No, it's brilliant.

1:25:101:25:11

Do you want to put the rocket and give us the mixed salad leaves?

1:25:111:25:14

-Yeah, there we go.

-Sherry vinegar. This is the secret.

1:25:141:25:18

-Cos this makes a great dressing.

-OK.

1:25:181:25:20

-So, we put some sherry vinegar in there.

-Yeah.

1:25:201:25:23

-So, you've just literally mashed up the watermelon?

-That's just blended.

1:25:231:25:26

Some olive oil.

1:25:261:25:28

Right.

1:25:281:25:30

So, what we're going to do is make a simple little dressing

1:25:301:25:32

to go with this. Now, you need to add a bit of sherry vinegar

1:25:321:25:35

-to give it a bit of sharpness.

-Give it a bit of flavour?

1:25:351:25:38

There's Matthew going...

1:25:381:25:39

Taking the mick out of your...

1:25:391:25:40

-Gave it a bit something that's worth living for.

-But it is.

1:25:401:25:43

You just give this a quick...

1:25:431:25:46

-Sure you don't want to add something else?

-No, just that'll do.

1:25:461:25:50

Bit of sherry vinegar just to glaze the pan out. Leave the pan off.

1:25:501:25:53

This is what's great about that, particularly for a dinner party.

1:25:531:25:55

-Make them all in advance.

-Smells good.

1:25:551:25:57

-See, smells great.

-Smells good now.

1:25:571:25:59

-That's the smell of the bacon, not the watermelon.

-Right.

1:25:591:26:01

Not the watercress cos it doesn't have any.

1:26:011:26:04

What we're going to do is just...

1:26:041:26:06

Have we got a bit of watermelon left?

1:26:071:26:08

We've got a little bit there. What I'll do is just dice it.

1:26:081:26:11

I've got some more if you want more.

1:26:111:26:13

No, I think probably Ben's probably fed up of it by now, I think.

1:26:131:26:17

-I haven't tried it yet, so...

-Slice that through.

1:26:171:26:20

Give this a quick mix with the dressing.

1:26:201:26:22

-Lovely. Splendid.

-And we've got some of this as well.

-Sherry vinegar.

1:26:221:26:26

-Put the watermelon in.

-It's going to give it...

1:26:261:26:29

Give that a quick mix round.

1:26:291:26:30

And then we can start to plate that up. So...wow.

1:26:321:26:35

-Would you make this as a starter, do you think?

-I think yes. I mean...

1:26:351:26:39

Yeah, I would. Yeah, that's the sort of thing...

1:26:391:26:42

Two, or maybe, if you wanted a main course...

1:26:421:26:44

I've also had it just wrapped raw

1:26:441:26:46

with a little bit of Parma ham round it.

1:26:461:26:48

-Tastes fantastic just like that.

-Absolutely delicious.

1:26:481:26:52

-A canape.

-I'm sure.

1:26:521:26:54

It's the classic melon and Parma ham sort of stuff,

1:26:541:26:57

but not the stuff that you get at weddings.

1:26:571:27:00

But the difference is that melon actually has flavour,

1:27:001:27:04

has texture, has perfume.

1:27:041:27:06

Why is it always weddings and funerals

1:27:061:27:08

you get all that sort of dreadful...?

1:27:081:27:10

Yeah, well, this would be a great dish for a funeral.

1:27:101:27:12

THEY LAUGH

1:27:121:27:15

Thanks, Matthew. Cheers.

1:27:151:27:16

Is that sort of like a gravy you're putting on it?

1:27:161:27:19

It's looking good for me on the Great British Menu next time.

1:27:191:27:22

-Yeah, I think you might qualify.

-Dive in.

1:27:221:27:25

Just remember that if Matthew's the judge,

1:27:251:27:27

you better stay off watermelon.

1:27:271:27:29

Great local produce. Dive into that, tell us what you think.

1:27:291:27:32

-I have to say, it looks very appetising.

-Doesn't it?

1:27:321:27:36

We've got an Ombra Prosecco. Matthew, if you could open that.

1:27:361:27:39

The glasses, girls. There we go.

1:27:391:27:41

-Great, thanks.

-What do you think?

1:27:421:27:44

-Hmm.

-Hmm?

1:27:441:27:46

-Come on.

-I really...to be honest...

1:27:461:27:48

I was struggling to find a dish to go with it. What do you reckon?

1:27:481:27:51

You haven't totally sold me on the watermelon in it,

1:27:511:27:54

I'm sorry to say.

1:27:541:27:55

It just...everything else, it looks nice.

1:27:551:27:58

I like the mozzarella and the...pretty much all of it,

1:27:581:28:02

-except the watermelon.

-Yeah.

1:28:021:28:04

Have a try, see what you think. Sorry, that sounds really mean.

1:28:041:28:06

Nice, isn't it? We invite him on, give him food,

1:28:061:28:09

and all they do is take the mick.

1:28:091:28:11

I'm having my nougat back and he's not getting any wine.

1:28:111:28:13

You can't win them all, I guess.

1:28:181:28:20

I'm afraid that's all we've got time for for today's Best Bites.

1:28:201:28:23

If you'd like to try to cook any of the delicious food

1:28:231:28:25

you've seen on today's programme,

1:28:251:28:27

you can find all the studio recipes on our website.

1:28:271:28:29

Just log on to bbc.co.uk/recipes.

1:28:291:28:31

There are loads of brilliant ideas for you to choose from.

1:28:311:28:34

So, have a great week, get in the kitchen and I'll see you soon.

1:28:341:28:37

Bye for now.

1:28:371:28:38

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