02/07/2016 Saturday Kitchen

I'm Matt Tebbutt and this is Saturday Kitchen Live.

I'm joined by two wonderful chefs from opposite sides

The unofficial poster boy for all things Norfolk.

He's doing for East Anglian produce what David Beckham

has done for Y-fronts, Galton Blackiston.

And someone who's made a massive effort to get here,

Welcome back, the wonderful Annabel Langbein.

Good morning to you both. Galton, what a building that was, how will

you live up to that? I'm going to do seasonal food, wild sea bass, new

potatoes, broad beans, samphire, champagne and Brown shrimp sauce.

You'll love it. That's a local thing? That's how I've always known

it, ever since I was this high. That's in one of your old books as

well? Potentially. You have a revelation for us, Annabel? Yes, the

transformation or ingredient, aquafaba, the juice from chickpeas.

Oh, finger food. Yes, and Sang Choy Bao. That looks delicious.

There's more great recipes to go with those two in our archive

films from Rick Stein, The Hairy Bikers, Brian Turner

with Janet Street Porter and James Martin.

Our special guest today is making me more than a little bit nervous.

As well as being an award-winning writer, musician and broadcaster

he just so happens to be one of the most fearsome food

Please welcome to Saturday Kitchen, Jay Rayner.

Good morning. How are you? I'm very well. Don't be afraid, I am lovely,

I've been invited into your kitchen, I know my manners. You are cuddly

today. Look, I've been going to the gym a lot! What do you do there?

Watch telly. I am addicted to the cross trainer but enough about me.

Not enough about you. You are also here to face food heaven, food hell.

Presumably you've got a big list of food heaven 's? Enormous list. One

you are going for today is lamb breast which I do love. It was once

cheaper but now everybody is doing it. It's a gentrified ingredient. It

is still cheap in my neck of the woods, let's hope the price does not

go up. Most butchers give it to people to give to their dogs or mint

sets. That's exactly what I deserve, dog food! What about food hell? I've

gone from accession. It's a sort of confused protein -- I've gone for

monkfish. I have this thing with eel, is it meat, is it fish? I'll be

honest a lot of cooks don't know how to cook it. I'd had more horrors

with monkfish than almost any other things. Let's hope I'm not cooking

it later. How lucky am I? Cooking for a food critic on live TV. It

will be fine! What could go wrong? So Jay's given me lamb breast

and monkfish to work with. For his food heaven,

I'm going to cook the lamb First I'll slowly braise

it with onion, celery, It's cut into slices rolled

in breadcrumbs and deep fried. It's served with asparagus,

anchovies and leeks vinaigrette. Which you have a recipe for in your

book. I do, it's a classic, it's great.

Or Jay could be having his food hell, monkfish and I'm going to use

The fish is rolled in cumin and curry powder then pan roasted.

It's served in medallions with a spicy beetroot pickle

made with garam masala and black onion seeds.

And I'm using quinoa because Jay's not keen on that either.

I'm not a big fan. Do you feel lucky? Anyway, you are very honest

with your choices. No, absolutely. There are a whole bunch of things.

As a critic I had to eat almost everything but there are certain

ingredients that my eye doesn't leap to when I see them on the menu and

my heart doesn't swell with joy. Let's see what the viewers go for.

We will find out what he gets at the end of the show.

If you'd like the chance to ask any of us a question today then call

And if I do get to speak to you, I'll be

asking if you want Jay to face either food heaven or food hell.

You can send us questions through social media

But if you're watching us on catch-up then please don't

Shall we get some food? You are up, Carlton, what do you want me to do?

I'm going to tell you what to do, make champagne sauce. It is a

classic source, you sweat of the shallots, carrot. Carrots the

sweetness? Yes, and sliced the button mushrooms. You can add fish

stock and some champagne. And is this a restaurant type dish, home

dish? It can sit very happy either way. I'd prefer to do it at home

because I do it in one large pan and everything goes into it. But it

could sit very happily in a restaurant. In Brecel I did spot it

from one of your old books actually. You did -- in rehearsal. It reminded

me, you have recipes you used to like some time ago and then you

forget about them, then go back to them and think actually that was

really good and this is one of those. But it is heavily what I am

about. It is in season now? It is very seasonal, yes. I am going to

fry some shallots with garlic. Presumably these are getting

strained out? Yes, you don't have to but that's what I would do. Sauteed

in a little bit of butter, right? Perfect. So why champagne? Can you

guys, rather than just sitting there, will you pop these broad

beans? What's it going to do to my manicure! I haven't washed my hands.

This is my only chance that I get to tell people what to do. And

mushrooms as well, right? Yes, sliced them. What's the idea with

champagne? It's quite decadent. You could use white wine quite happily.

Probably the one bottle always left half full at my house. What's that?

Champagne. Half full! I have that much and then I can't drink any

more. You don't find any half bottles of champagne in my house.

Ayew double pod in these? I am, and before you criticise me... Relax,

everyone! We are all on tenterhooks because of you. Because of the time

of year and because the broad beans are large, they do need double

podding. I want to talk about these, these were dubbed yesterday. You

will have an opinion on this, Mills. When my parents sent me down the

garden to dig potatoes, they would do this, and the skins would just be

like that. It was beautiful. They would take the skin off? They are

few and far between nowadays and I love them. I think we should hold

this back and have a glass to toast the Welsh nation after the football

last night. Wasn't it incredible? Ayew Welsh today? Today I am Welsh,

yes. You do flip and change with the season! It was something else,

wasn't it? We were watching in the bar of the hotel and it was an

incredible performance. You've got to get a move on by the way. Yes I

have. They were all watching this on the screen down at Kate Humble's

farm. Instead of yapping, just get on with it. What else do you want?

Shrimps, fish stock going in there. New potatoes have been cooked,

obviously. What variety of potatoes are they? They are unmarried is, but

they are just a good potato. You can use any variety of new potato.

Premium waxy. Ayew finding any shortage of samphire? I love the way

you pronounce it. No, there is at moment because it has only just come

up now. It is on menus, I never used to see it on menus apart from if I

happened to be on the Norfolk coast, now it is everywhere. That's true.

It is literally coming up now and I picked this myself. I didn't notice

it being short. You are getting Joe Public going down there and picking

it, lots of it being picked, yes. British samphire is very different

to the stuff from abroad, isn't it? Yes. Not quite as salty, and a

different texture. Keep an eye on that. You are all right. It is just

one of those seasonal gems, like asparagus. It's here for six weeks

and then it goes. But those six weeks are very important and you use

it. You use it to death? I do. Unashamedly use it to death. In the

same way you would asparagus, when it is there, use it. If you'd like

to put a question to any of us later, call this number. But if you

are watching us on catch up please don't call because lines are closed.

What I want to talk about is this Philip of wild sea bass. Wild sea

bass is another thing they are running now. The North Sea isn't

full of a lot but sea bass is one of the things that is quite plentiful.

What we do is weedy scale it, pin bowling it, and then... Shall we

cook it? OK. Time is pressing. Is there any harm in using farmed? I

didn't think you'd get the same flavour. They are quite flabby as

well, farmed fish. They are flabby. You can get farmed sea bass which

are this big, and they are half the price. Sea bass is one of these

things which I personally think, the bigger the size the better the

flavour. These little ones, they are OK, they are good. Jay, somebody has

said on social media, as a food critic, do you think you should be

able to cook well to be taken seriously? I think it will be

obvious from the stuff you write if you do not know one end of the

kitchen from the other. The bottom line is mine is a writing job, not

an eating job, and I am in Clwyd for how I write, not for how I eat. But

if that writing lacks authority is because you don't know the

difference between a mayonnaise that has split and one that hasn't, or

fish that has been overcooked, it will be completely obvious. Do you

need to start by being a good eater? You need to be a good eater.

Samphire gets thrown in here. Again, blanch it. I know you don't like the

word blanch. I don't like baked, either. Do you have words you don't

like? Garnish. I hate it. It sounds like super fluency into syllables.

If it is just there to garnish, don't put it on. It has a point or

it doesn't. What about when you see things like pan-fried? Oh, you

didn't fry it in the sink then?! And that actually has a meaning, it is a

culinary turn but it is a bit much. Touch more champagne? Whoa! Sorry, I

did not mean to do that. Galton was late for rehearsal yesterday, you

made the taxi stopped to get another jumper. Every time he comes to

London he buys another pastel coloured jumper. We are almost

there. Brown shrimps go in at the end. If you wanted to add herbs you

could. Are we good to go? Yes, yes. Sorry to rush you. I am, yes.

Lightly season it. Put a nice little pile on there, would you? How is the

fish looking? Only just. It needs to rest, then it will be cooked. It

needs to rest, guys, please. Loads of time, then. Galton, there was a

ban about a month or so ago on fishing for wild bass? There is.

That's gone, has it? I don't think so. The ban has been lifted. As far

as I'm aware. You see, I'm several. It has been lifted, let's not worry

about that. Where I come from, they come to me at the back door, they

give me a bag of fish and say, will you pay cash. So that is wild sea

bass, brown shrimps champagne sauce, new potatoes and samphire. Looks

beautiful. Right, the first dish. It looks very

pretty. I like ingredients that are seasoning it for you. The shrimp and

the brown shrimps. I would always rested a little bit, to be fair. How

long would you rest it is Mac you have not overcooked fish. It is

almost as assembly of really good ingredients and when everything is

as good as this you just need to know how much to put on the plate.

Fabulous food like this needs a top wine to drink with it.

Our expert, Olly Smith has been in Surrey this week so let's see

what he's picked out to go with Galton's bass.

The great British strawberry is in season.

I have come to this farm in Surrey. I have taken shelter in the tunnel

and before we pick the wines for this week's show, let's kick some of

these. Lovely. What a whopper. With Galton's seasonal sea bass bonanza

you might be tempted by this Austrian wine that works well with

samphire. However, with that champagne and brown shrimp sauce, a

richer white wine, so I am selecting this white burgundy. It comes from

France's burgundy, the world capital of top-quality Chardonnay. The

vineyards have been finessed in the hands of Romans, monks, even

royalty. There is a tradition of using oak to enhance the blend to

get depth and complexity and this example comes from the south, a bit

more sunshine, which gives a fruity resonance to the wine. That is top

class. That is a 3-piece suit for T-shirt cash. There is an elegance

and purity that is spot on with salty ingredients in the dish coming

from the samphire and bacon and you need for that zip and this wine is

irresistibly zesty. And you have the champagne and brown shrimp sauce

with the buttery potatoes and the kookiness of the wine rounds it out

to make it a peachy pairing -- oak. Do you think you could carry off

that jacket? I did not notice the jacket! What about you, good wine?

Crisp and fresh. I can imagine not realising I had got to the bottom of

the second bottle. I have been in recovery for a while! It is an

industry where you are around a lot of wine and you have to watch it and

I am watching it right now. It is delicious and creamy. Very nice.

Annabel you will be cooking for us. I will make some lettuce cups with

prawns and mango and avocado with an aquafaba dressing and a stir-fry. In

a lettuce cup. You can ask a question if you call this number...

We need your calls by 11am today. You can send questions by Twitter.

Right, let's head to Greece for more food adventures with Rick Stein.

He's visiting the home of one of his all-time heroes today

This is a bit of hero worship for me, because it's the home

He was an adventurer and a great travel writer.

As a young man, he walked the length of Europe to Istanbul.

He was also a hero in the true sense of the word.

His exploits in the Second World War were made into a film in the '50s

A young and dashing British officer kidnaps a German general.

Patrick Leigh Fermor is one of those Englishmen who the Greeks take

to their heart, like Byron, like Admiral Codrington

But once you're their friend, you're their friend for ever.

I've heard about his study, but to come here is just fabulous.

I mean, my first feeling is like he's just sort of left to go

and buy something down in the village.

I mean, I just love studies like this, where everything's left

as it was and you get such an impression of what somebody

is like by their books, more than anything else.

I mean, there we've got Deborah Devonshire, his best friend.

They wrote to each other all the time.

This is Elpida, Patrick Leigh Fermor's housekeeper and cook.

You can't have a programme about Greek food without moussaka.

Did Patrick Leigh Fermor, did he like a moussaka?

And I made a pot for four and he ate it all and then

"But from now on, I will eat it from you."

Elpida told me her secret of a good authentic moussaka is to

fry all the vegetables in olive oil first.

That's potatoes, the aubergines and courgettes.

Put aside and let them cool and drain.

Now, the minced lamb, fried in onion and garlic.

She uses a good half dozen of these big, juicy tomatoes.

There's no water, just the juice of the tomatoes.

To be honest, I've never had moussaka with

But it's really, moussaka to me, almost a vegetarian dish.

I know it's got lots of mince in it, but it's really about these lovely

Greek vegetables cooked in olive oil.

And also, I notice you really fry the veg first.

And is that the secret of a good moussaka?

And have you got any more, Elpida, secrets of a moussaka?

I cook it only with fresh tomatoes and without water at all.

I cook it only with the tomato juice.

I mean, I thought Mediterranean heat, not like India

when we were filming there, drenched in sweat.

So, I'm sure you know about layering the dish.

First of all, potatoes, then a coating of minced lamb...

Now, add the remainder of the mince on top.

This is followed by a very creamy bechamel sauce, maybe 200 grams

Put in about a litre and a half of full-fat milk.

You need lots of this sauce to be layered on top to make

Whisk it until it's thick and smooth.

Turn off the heat, because you don't want the three

Season well with lots of pepper and salt and then three-quarters

Once that's done, grate, if you can get it, some graviera cheese.

It's a hard sheep's milk cheese, a bit like manchego.

Now then, how long in the oven, Elpida?

How about 20 minutes, half an hour?

Just to get brown on the top.

Finally, a little blessing of the grated graviera cheese.

And here it is in all its golden glory.

A good moussaka home-made is a rare and many-splendored thing.

Well, I think you know what I'm going to say.

It's the best moussaka I've ever tasted.

I think what I really love about it is it's so light.

I think this is making me very excited, because what I want to say

is people are quite rude about Greek food, but they don't get to taste

I mean, this is seriously a world-class dish,

Thanks. My mistake. He was a travel writer. Food occurred along the way

but he was an elegant writer, it was about the shapes of the sentences.

Would you think people are rude about Greek food? There is a great

food writer in America saying never take advice on matters culinary from

people who pickle cheese and put tree sap in their wine! I have spent

time in Greece and there are fabulous dishes. You have to work to

find them because they will not be the normal tourist restaurants. Rick

Stein visited his writing heroes and this recipe is Elizabeth David, one

of my writing heroes and you have an opinion on her. All I am doing, I

have rump beef. I will put it in with a lot of onions and Bay leaves.

I will make a dressing with parsley, chilli, what we're going to a snob.

There were good ways of doing things and bad ways of doing things. There

is one argument that by focusing on the food of France and

Mediterranean, she set back any revolution that would happen in the

UK. Because everybody decided British food was awful. She may have

had a point. Eating in Britain in, there was not a great deal of great

food. But she stands as a benchmark person, that we have come so far, we

can have a critical opinion. This recipe came from one of books. A

collection of her articles, from 55. It is amazing that we are still

talking about it and using these recipes from that time. She was a

particular kind of food writer who chronicled as much as offering

suggestions for dinner and we should be grateful for that. Talking about

collecting things, this links your book. Ten food commandments. I am

playing a culinary Moses! I look super hot in flowing robes! How did

it come about? I wanted to write ten essays. Normally when you write a

book it is a single narrative and I have done that a couple of times and

it is rewarding. But there are subjects not worthy of a whole book

but worth examining in detail. Such is thou shalt eat with your

hands. And by coveting what your neighbour is eating that is how food

culture moves on. There are ten essays told in a fun style. How long

are you putting it in the oven? 140 degrees, about two hours.

Marvellous, that should give me enough time to tell you about the

book! Essays written in, I hope, as like the style as possible, with

recipes. And how was that? Each little chapter has recipes in. It

does. Your recipes? My recipes apart from the thou shalt by neighbours

Ochs chapter, in which I got other people's recipes, and I am

shamelessly saying, here are recipes, and I have some permission,

apart from one which I made up. Was that the egg and travel? A single

scallop with a pastry lid over the top. He cooked it for me... My

terrible life, hey? I was trying to work out how he'd done it. How do

you get a perfectly glazed pastry shell and not overcooked the

scallop. It is about chilling everything at every stage. What's

gone in there? You are good at this! Just in case you weren't watching,

we've got parsley, Chile, garlic, anchovies. I love anchovies. And red

wine vinegar. They've got to be salted anchovies. Great ingredient.

Just told that. You see, I can cook! Good slug of olive oil. Keep that

going. OK, parsley, anchovies, red wine vinegar, garlic, olive oil,

chilli, that's it. This could be a rich, heavy dish but I will lighten

it with some salad. Just for me? That's a marvellous thing. Do you

like salads? I've got recipes on salad in the chapter on why you

should not mistake foods for pharmacies. There is not a single

food which will cure you of dementia or stave off cancer. I went to

Cancer Research UK and said, is there anything which is a super

food? They said it is just a marketing term. I don't agree. Read

the science. The way we report science around food is appalling and

misunderstood. People say there is a substance in blueberries that will

stave off cancer, what they are actually saying is that at one point

in the laboratory are concentrated form of that substance was found to

have an effect on something which is not the same. What about anti-NGO

Genesis? There are a whole lot of Ted talks about it. She's using

really long words! I'm going to have to go and have a lie down after

this. We know that aspirin comes from the Willow tree, and it is a

bit like saying so if you've got a headache, go and lick the tree, it

will not cure your headache. A balanced diet is vital for keeping

healthy but super foods do not exist. Sometimes an hour and a half

of TV is just not enough, is it? Back from super foods and onto your

book. This is going to be a live round the country show as well, how

will you do that? It's an hour of stand-up, basically. I use

audiovisual things as a performer on stage. It is fun but it also has a

point to it. I also invite the audience to come up with their own

food commandments. If anybody wants to do that today. Food commandments?

I've got a good one. Mine would be thou shalt not use unseasoned

ingredients. I could argue that but we don't have time. Mine would be

don't fall into the gravy. That's a very good one. Can I add one? I

would like people in restaurants to leave their dietary requirements at

home unless it's obviously life-threatening, that would be

wrong. So many dietary requirements these days. I can't eat garlic

question mark yes you can, you just don't want the smell. The one I did

not put in the book, thou shalt serve your food on a plate. Don't

put your bread in a flat cap because you are a restaurant in Yorkshire.

Don't put the apple sauce in a miniature wheelbarrow. I'm not seven

years old and it does not amuse me. If you are reviewing a restaurant

and that happens, do you automatically mark them down on

that? Yes, because most of these other serving implements are just

not useful. Have you ever seen waiters trying to pick food up when

it has been served on a plate? Very heavy slates. That's what I mean.

They can't get their fingers under the things and it makes the whole

thing miserable and I worry about them. You worry about waiters. I am

nice. This could be the chapter in the next book. What, I am nice? You

worry about waiters. We don't want to go that far, really. The live

show is all over the country. In Horsham next week, Cardiff, Margate,

all over the place. And how long is it going on for? I'll probably be

touring that for the next two years. I just finished a show about lousy

restaurant experiences and I performed it all over the country,

all the way down to lime Regis. And I like performing live, it's fun.

Would you say you are a natural show off? Do you have to be a natural

show off to do what you do? I'm a wallflower, really. I really don't

want to be out in front of the public. You love it, really. I do

like performing. I also play jazz piano, I have a jazz quartet. I was

fortunate enough to see it, being very drunk in a bar in London and

suddenly Jay Rayner was there playing jazz piano and it was the

most wonderful night. It is a lovely thing to be able to do. We do songs

around food and drink, like black coffee, and I do a certain amount of

material based on my experiences of growing up with a mother who was an

agony aunt. I never told those stories before. They are all far too

filthy to be told on television. Lets not do that, then. But late at

night in a jazz club, playing to an audience. You are very, very good at

it. Oh, thank you. I am not very good at it but I have worked at it

very hard and I am surrounded by some brilliant musicians. This looks

fantastic, I must say. I've always been a big fan of Elizabeth David.

While Jay tucks into that, beef went in the oven with onions, butter,

Bailey's for about two hours until it is tender, you can cut it with

this spin. Parsley, anchovies, garlic, red wine vinegar, stood

throughout the end. If you've got enough you could steer it through

the whole pot and a bit of salad to lighten it up. Don't want to talk

now, I am eating. Is it all right? It is absolutely lovely.

So what will I be making for Jay at the end of the show?

It could be his food heaven, lamb breast.

I'll slowly braise it with onion, celery, carrot and a bay leaf.

Then cut it into slices, roll it in breadcrumbs and deep fry.

It's served with blanched baby leeks, asparagus,

anchovies and homemade garlic and mustard mayo.

Or it could be his food hell, monkfish.

The fish is rolled in cumin and curry powder then pan roasted.

It's served in medallions with a spicy beetroot pickle

made with garam masala and black onion seeds.

As usual, it's down to the guests in the studio and a few

of our viewers to decide, and you can see the result

How was that? Really very nice. That was almost reluctant. Not reluctant,

it was fantastic. Now it's time for a recipe from Si

and Dave, the Hairy Bikers. They're island hopping in Sweden

today in search of the local lamb. This bite sized morsel's

in the heart of the Baltic Sea. A three-hour ferry ride

from the mainland. Gotland is famous for

some fantastic produce. That sounds like a good excuse

for a food tour, Kingy. Our first stop is Visby,

one of the best preserved medieval Even better though, it's the place

to taste the island's famous lamb. Apparently it's really good

because the soil is limestone. It makes incredible

veggies, incredible grass. The sheep eat it and you have

the most wonderful lamb. Look at him, he could be

our brother, dude! Here we have the home

grown lamb from Gotland. With cuts of leg,

fillet and rib. I think this is one of those

culinary moments, like Gotland lamb, I think it's got to go down as some

of the best lamb I've ever eaten. Manny's lamb comes from the island's

own breed called, funnily They were first bred

on the island by Vikings. If the rest of Gotland's offerings

are as good as the lamb, 'Sweden's been a real education

and an adventure. 'With amazing scenery

and fantastic food. 'A trip this good

deserves a big finale. 'And I know just the man to deliver

it.' Filip Fasten, What a climax to the trip

to taste some of the best He's so Scan-deliciously cool,

he's running a top-end restaurant here in a converted limestone

quarry.' A fabulous location. Filip's a Grade A pots

and pans prodigy. This baby-faced 25-year-old

has already been named So we've asked the kitchen maestro

to show us his award-winning take Filip's assembled wild roses,

wild mushrooms 'and even wild Well, that alone gets my

taste buds tingling. we have in the country,

we are trying to use them in like the "new" Scandinavian

Nordic cuisine that's grown-up now. It's a lot of pickle,

a lot of salting, a lot of fermenting and also a lot

of like produce that we get But, you know, it's massively

important, isn't it to kind of keep those traditions,

those culinary traditions alive. Repackage them however you want

them, but the essence is still there,

isn't it? First, we start to boil the moss

In true new Nordic fashion, Filip's making our dinner out

of something that the Sami Si and

Dave's cooked loofah! So here is the stove,

or the grill. We are using wood

because of the flavour. As this is Gotland, there's

also lamb on the menu. We're making a tartare,

a classic raw meat dish. a lamb over juniper wood, but not

cooking it. How long

would you smoke that for? We are going to smoke it just

for a minute, to give Tartare dishes are generally

associated with France 'but they eat both meat and fish versions right

around the Baltic. we've changed the texture a little

bit, to give it some colour. You can see the smoke

flavours on it. You worked in Stockholm in a two

Michelin-star restaurant, Before I was cooking

for 40 guests. Nowadays I'm cooking for myself

and letting guests taste my food. I've been given the job of flaking

the smoked fish while Si's helping Hee, he doesn't know what happened

when Si deep-fried bladder rack seaweed in a two-star Michelin

restaurant once. There was explosions,

it was complete chaos. I think he's only got

one eye, as well. Now it's time to assemble Filip's

new Nordic cuisine. Starting with sour cream, a classic

flavour here. Then the lamb, representing

the best of local produce. Next, the smoked fish

which epitomises the Baltic The moss represents the Swedes'

innovative use of ingredients. And the chanterelles,

which symbolise the And just to add some more colours,

the rose flowers. They're quite sweet

in flavour. That's absolutely

sublime, isn't it? This is the perfect end

to our voyage of discovery. Sweden, beautiful place, beautiful

people. He's making ginger parkin

with rhubarb poached in an orange, It's finished with

vanilla ice cream. Galton takes on Annabel in today's

Saturday Kitchen omelette challenge. They both seem quite relaxed now

but will they be able to maintain that calm EGGs-terior

or will they both EGGs-plode under the mounting

pressure of the toughest not MasterChef, the omelette

challenge. And will Jay be facing food heaven,

Twice cooked lamb breast Or food hell, cumin and curry coated

monkfish with beetroot pickle. Annabel, you are cooking. This is

going to be fun. Put some pounds on. I want you to be a chopper. We will

make salad cups for the prawns. We will get the prawns on. And we will

turn this into the sang choy bao... Little lettuce baskets. Two types?

Two things. Flavouring the means. Sesame oil, fish sauce, a little bit

of soy sauce. It is like an instant marinade. I mix it through the pork.

Is this typical of your cooking? What is nice about New Zealand is

the idea you have incredibly fresh ingredients and you can flavour them

in different languages. You can take this and make an Italian style

mixture. You can make an Indian style mixture but with these Asian

flavours, that is one area where our food is developing because we have

so many influences from different parts of Asia. Having never been to

New Zealand or Australia, from what I read, you don't seem constrained

by culinary tradition. We don't really have them. We are sort of

magpies. In New Zealand there is a wonderful thing, because we live far

from the world, when you finish university, after school, you save

up, put on a backpack, and go around the world for a couple of years and

in that time you what exposed to different tastes. And you come back

home... Can I get you to chop some cabbage? Use the potato peeler on an

angle, it is a fantastic way to do it. And so you come back and think,

I would like to have that Mexican food, I would love that Currie, and

so you have to do... You have all the ingredients at your fingertips.

Is there such a thing as New Zealand cuisine? I think in a way it is

based in the garden and the land and fish and produce, all of these

things. And then it takes different cues. It has become confident so it

is not trying to be something it is, this is delicious, without it trying

to mix things up too much. When people first started putting it, it

was a cacophony of people trying to put in too many ingredients. Is

there a wave of chefs coming out of New Zealand experiment in? Heaps of

them. We are very resourceful people. We have 4 million people and

you have to do everything. That is the trick. Take out the heart. I am

just breaking this up with the back of the spoon. It is simple, cooking

it until it is no longer pink and at the same time let's put this on. We

have pork and prawns, two different things. Very nice. Is this from your

latest cook or? You have 19? 23. 10,000 recipes I have written. It is

my language. I love to cook. That is phenomenal. More books when you have

read! No, it is more books than you have read! It gives me so much

pleasure. Some people paint, make pottery, I love to cook. I have a

big garden and I go out to the garden and see what is in season and

think, that would go really well with those leaks and I have chicken

from the farm. You are just back from the states? You were on the

Today Show. I have done three TV series. The third season we launched

in America, which is fun. Which show are you promoting? The second one.

We launched the second show. When you are learning to do TV it is a

learning curve and you have no idea at the beginning. You might. If you

need to wash your hands, there is a tap on the right. Not the other one,

that is boiling! I went do that. You are introducing them to your

world? Yes. If I can encourage people into the kitchen to cook and

sit around the table and have a bit of fun, instead of the bar being

high, it is so simple when you can help the kids with homework and have

a glass of wine. Just hang out. What is going to go wrong, unless you

burn the house down? When you look at modern Australian food, you would

associate it with Donna Hay will stop would you associate New Zealand

with what you are doing? I think ours is simple. Not so styled. I got

really fat when I first started cooking, 15 stone. I never went to

cooking school but when I went to America I wrote to Julia Child. It

was nice of her to write back. I went to America and had a croissant

business when I was 22 and I let all my potential profits! I came back to

New Zealand, did a little work and saved up, had a catering business,

went to America and did a course on nutrition and it was an epiphany of

what was making me look like a Michelin blimp. I use a lot of

umami. So that you get flavour without fat. That is why it is

important you choose dinner guests carefully. Mine is a rant about

being a restaurant critic and going out to dinner with people I don't

really want to go with. You cannot always choose. What is the worst

thing you have done if you have had food you think, I cannot eat that. I

had to put mine in a handbag once. Wait until the chef went out. The

only time I came across something inedible was an Italian cafe in

Edinburgh, very well-known, when they forgot to soak the ham hock

before making soup. I mentioned it on the way out and the owner and

later told me she chased me down this Street to find me because she

tasted the soup and realised what had happened. It was in the days

before anybody would know what I was doing there and why. I know it is

hard to remember a day when that would be possible! I was once quite

anonymous! I love your first book. We called it Eating cat macro. It

was a novel that was published under that title in many parts of the

world. I think I was responsible for all the sales in New Zealand because

I bought it for everyone. It is a novel about a restaurant critic who

apologises for everything he has done wrong. Was it cathartic? He

does it because a chef apparently commits suicide in response... It is

back out online. It is very funny. We are going to put this together.

Everything I have in here. Water chestnuts, it is a meal in one. You

could put noodles through it and make it like a stir-fry in winter.

To finish, I use oyster sauce, probably the one, you can use

hoisin. A lot of big flavours. You serve it in a lettuce cup. Did you

give them to the boys? I have done it. Better than in rehearsal, just

so you know. Is this for which ever one of the chefs this morning is

driven to take their revenge? Just put one of those and a little prawn

on there. It is almost like a mini salad. What I have to do, most

important, my miracle. I am using my miracle. Mayonnaise? It is aquafaba

mayonnaise. We used to throw away juice from the chickpeas. What you

are doing is using it and what happens is the proteins migrate out

of the chickpeas and it is exactly the same as egg white. Two and a

half tablespoons. Like you are making a mayonnaise. Dijon mustard.

Salt and pepper, vinegar. Vegan friends are getting excited! If you

are allergic to egg, if you are vegan, trying to save money because

we used to throw the juice out and now we don't. When you first do it

you think it will not work but it does. You can make meringue,

chocolate mousse. Does it not pick up the taste? When you cook it, it

takes out the taste of the beans. Sometimes I have something like

cinnamon, coffee, if I am worried about that. This is the miracle. I

hope you are watching. I am watching. There is no fat? And what

I love, it will keep. It is quite loose mayonnaise. Do you want

thicker? Salad cream. I am making mayonnaise! When you want it fixed,

you add more oil. The thicker it is, more oil in there. What I love is it

keeps for ever because there is nothing in there to go off. It

doesn't separate? No. It is beautiful. Look at that. There is

not an egg in there. I like being resourceful, not wasting things. And

you can make hummus out of the chickpeas. We are doing good! And we

are doing good. Can you pass over the bowl of mayonnaise? I want to

find out. How are we looking on the pork? Peanuts. Sometimes when you

chopped peanuts, they go all over the E bench, I use the back like

that. -- the bench. I love this because you can make that mixture

ahead. Interesting. And you can take that on a picnic and have it with

the lettuce cups. Remind us. We have prawn, avocado and mango cups with

aquafaba mayonnaise and some pork sang choy bao. Beautiful.

Let's try this. How is the mayonnaise? You cannot sit there

diving into a bowl of mayonnaise, Jay Rayner. There is the slightest

edge of chickpeas flavour at the back. Do you think if you put in

more lime juice, lemon zest? That would take it away. It is

interesting. It works. Amazing. So many people do not want to eat eggs

or they are expensive. Delicious. Is there an elegant way to eat this?

Right, let's see what Olly Smith has chosen to go with Annabel's feast.

With Annabel's lovely letter scopes I'm looking for a vivacious white

wine, and a great all-rounder with aromatic recipes is Italian fizz

such as this frothy, full and fabulous one. In this recipe there's

a lot of fabulous flavours. I'm hunting AV now with even more

tropical thrust. Taste the Difference

Awatere Riesling. It's a Kiwi cracker. This is from

the northern tip of the South Ireland of New Zealand from a carbon

neutral winery, and thanks to bright sunny days you get a magnifying

effect to the magnificent mango flavours. Not only that, the finish

is really bright and uplifting, a bit like an apple and a catapult.

Ooh, its business time. The prawns and the pork both have a slightly

salty flavour to them. And that works fantastically with reasoning's

headline characteristic, Xing! The mango and avocado pick-up sublimely

on the tropical thrust of this superbly sunny white. And finally

you've got really bold flavours coming through from the soy, ginger

and chilli. The aromatic intensity picks up and works beautifully.

Annabel, he to your lovely lettuce cups, cheers! Flying the flag for

New Zealand wine. Delicious. I think reasoning is so underrated, such a

good food wine. Sweet but it's got grunt to it. Nothing flabby here.

Not any more. How is your food? Fantastic. This is my food heaven, I

don't care whatever else you make. We can all sit around and drink wine

now then. Now let's get a taste

of Britain from Brian Turner They're in West Dorset today

visiting a farmer with some very I still have to decide

what to cook for my celebratory ..so I've come to the Longlands Farm

in Littlebredy to meet farmer John Barker who's been farming

Dorset longhorn cattle They look quite aggressive

with those horns. Is that part of what

you like about these... Yes, they're a typical traditional

old English breed. You said then that they're

an old breed... ..but I read somewhere that they're

the world's oldest registered breed, And, er, they were very

popular in those days, not purely for their beef,

but they were used for, And we have an animal over

here which is part of the... BRIAN LAUGHS ..and he's typical

of that...of the breed in that era. So, here you see, Brian,

another batch of longhorns, and they're keeping

this area quite tidy. Of course, in my way of life,

I'm really interested They don't have a lot of top

fat but it's marbled. So the fat is running through the,

er, through the flesh. But that's the big secret that

people don't often see. They like to see this

wonderful red colour... So it's a wonderful

little ecologica But that must give great flavour

to the beef. Well, we think it does,

that's correct. I'm really excited to be

creating my own special dish for West Dorset,

using John's longhorn beef. I'm cooking a ribeye

of longhorn beef with herbs, mustard and garlic butter,

and duck fat potato wedges. Going to keep it really

nice and simple. But what I thought we'd do to make

it slightly different is do a double steak,

so it's like a bigger piece of meat Well, it's just that

bit extra, yeah. Ah, it's a fantastic-looking

piece of meat. Just look at the actual marbling

through it all. So it's got that wonderful piece

of fat in there which just I'm going to put a bit

of duck fat in there, OK? We've got rosemary, we've

got some lemon thyme, we've got oregano spilling out

there and we got some real thyme There's no real recipe here,

just bags of herbs. So we'll give that a bit

of a stir round in there. And I don't think you need

to marinade it for too long but probably 10

minutes, 15 minutes. A bit of salt and a bit

of pepper... And this allows you to

get the barbecue up Don't you think, most people

when they're barbecuing are so keen to get going, they don't

let it get hot enough? Do you know, you're absolutely spot

on but we're putting the lid down so it acts a little bit more

like an oven as well. And as it's a very simple recipe,

I'm going to actually do chips. Everybody thinks of potato

wedges that you buy. You don't need to buy them,

just boil your own. Maris Piper potatoes,

something like that. And then, we're going

to cut them... But, what I want to do,

is I want to use the duck fat Now, we've got a big

crowd behind us here. I hope you all like it

not too well done. I mean medium rare,

you're quite right. So I'm going to put some of that

duck fat in here and I'm just going to dip these

potatoes into duck fat. If you're careful that

you don't have too much Otherwise, it'll start to flare

the whole thing and you'll get them too much coloured and too charred,

which we don't really want. They are just cooked,

so quickly put those And I think you'll find that these

work best round the outside That way they don't cook too

quickly and don't flare, cos it's not quite as hot

round the outside. As you know, I always like to

have a bit of butter with my meat. I mean, that's for 26 of us, so

it's OK. In here we're going to put some

grain mustard, lovely texture. And then I'm going

to chop capers. OK, so, chop those up there and then

we'll chop a bit of garlic as well. And then this chopped parsley

to give it a bit of colour. Go with our other

herbs there. So, what we do

with this... And the nice thing about this is,

you can actually make this Put it in the fridge and then just

pull it out whenever you need it. Now we need to have a quick look

at this over here. Just keep our fingers crossed it's

all going the right direction. I can't say that cos you don't

like butter, do you? OK, so there we have

it. Just for you, Dorset

longhorn ribeye steak. Right, it's time to answer

a few of your foodie questions. Just to reiterate, all of our

ingredients are reliably sourced. One of my flippant comments, like I

often do... I do buy very sustainable fish, all the time, I

reiterate that. That's why we love you, that's why you are here. Let's

go to the lines. Anna from Derbyshire, what's your question?

Hello. I would love to have something special to do with bream

for my wedding anniversary. I've got the best dish for you. We call them

snapper, not red snapper but we call it snap in New Zealand, score each

side of the whole fish crisscross and Rob Green chilli paste in, and

flash roast -- rub in green chilli cased. Are you happy with that?

Brilliant. What would you like to see at the end of the show? It has

to be heaven. Thank you. And from Surrey, what's your question? Good

morning. I am cooking beef Wellington this evening. Good luck,

are you going to start now? The only problem is my wife and my friend

Neal are allergic to mushrooms. I'd like an alternative substitute,

really. I'll take that. Classically beef Wellington would have chicken

liver pate or something. You could buy chicken liver pate and smear

that on instead of the mushrooms. Good luck, beef Wellington is quite

a feat! What would you like to see Jay get at the end of the show? I

would go fair heaven. Get you, Jay! I'm almost disappointed in the

British nation! Karen from Woking, what would you like to ask? Good

morning. I'd like to new way of cooking artichoke hearts, please.

I've got loads of these in my garden. I just picked them, cut off

the top and warm them for 15 minutes, scrape out the inside and

make a salad, lots of olive oil, garlic, lemon rind, herbs, creamy

new potatoes and add olives and capers, simple and really delicious.

Nice, give that one a try? Sounds yummy! What would you like to see at

the end of the show? Sorry, hell. She doesn't like you. Come on then,

guys. What are the rules? Make a quick

omelette. Any of this. Hold fire. Are you ready? Clocks on the screen,

please. Just for you at home. Ready, guys? His hands are shaking over

there. Three, two, one, go! Ooh, shall as well. Double points for

seasoning. The nation wants you to lose. Shut up! For your sea bass

comments. Good Lord! Good Lord. All the way from New Zealand. Really? Is

that what you are giving me? It will taste delicious, I promise. Creamy!

Are you actually going to have two... I'm calling rank here, I am

not going to try that. We will put that in the bin. What about you? No

shoving it together, this does not look like an omelette either. That

looks horrible. I'm not trying that. I'm going to disqualify you both.

They are both going in the bin. But what music have I got in the bin

today? Its EU, Jay. Jazz piano! Do you like this? I play that piece. I

wish I knew how to be free, brilliant song. What will Jay get at

the end of the show? Or food hell, lightly

spiced monkfish tail I'll work out the result

whilst you enjoy some He's making a Yorkshire

favourite today, parkin! When I think about the food I loved

growing up, sometimes it's about It's about the place I ate

it as well. Like one of my treasured

treats as a young 'un. Good old Yorkshire parkin,

the soft, syrupy oatmeal cake For me, it's a recipe

with northern soul. The molasses flavour

can be a bit too much. Then the same amount

of butter goes in. And for that supreme stickiness,

I like a heart-stopping combo of three parts golden syrup to one

part black treacle, as a little of the treacle's burnt caramel taste

goes a long way. Now,

what you need to do now All we're going to do is melt

the butter and sugar What we don't want to be

doing is boiling it. Because if we boil anything

like this, you really So it's important that you're

just warming it. So, do this on a really low

heat to start off with. Now for the dry ingredients,

starting with oats and self-raising When you have dried ginger

in anything, you don't only get the flavour,

you get this kick at And that's what parkin

is really good for. Especially when we had it

around Bonfire Night, Then, a teaspoon each of ground

nutmeg and mixed spice... Then I add a splash of milk,

and finally, a pinch of salt. Before I mix everything together,

you need to butter the tin. And then what we can do is combine

all the ingredients. All you're doing with this

is just melting the butter. Because if you do this by machine,

you're going to break up the oats in there, and you won't

get that texture to Cos it does taste

fantastic with that spice. You can see from the mixture it's

actually quite a wet mix. And this means that it's got

to cook slightly longer You reduce the temperature down

to stop it from burning. 'The parkin needs about an hour

and a quarter to cook. 'And if I was doing this

like my granny, 'all my work But I've

got to fancy this up, and I've got to use

Yorkshire's veg. This is what this is

classed as. We produce some of the best

in the world in Yorkshire. People have really fallen out

of favour with rhubarb, I don't think people put

enough sugar into it. That's why it really lends itself

together with this. 'and pop in some butter,

water and sugar. 'Plus a bit of orange zest

which really enhances 'Then I poach it for just a few

minutes.' So, while that's gently poaching, I'm going to do the best

part of this dish which is the sauce And for that, we use

a combination of golden syrup, Too often with rhubarb,

people just cook it to death. You end up with this horrible stew

in the bottom. The worst thing you can possibly

buy is tinned rhubarb. That is up there with

horseradish for me. And best of all, it's

from my neck of the woods. The key to this is leaving it

for at least a couple of days, You get this tackiness

to the parkin, which is what really separates it apart from

most other cakes. You've got this

wonderful rhubarb here. Now, this, to be honest,

is really fantastic. It's a little bit more fancy

than what Granny used to give us. But, fundamentally, parkin should

always taste the same. Right, it's time to find out

whether Jay is facing food Heaven. This is hell. You distrust

monkfish? Because very few cooks know how to cook it properly but

thankfully we have Galton here. And beetroot. What you think you have

got. Surprisingly, they like you. I have

always loved the people. This is another Elizabeth David dish.

It is utterly delicious. Do you know the story behind this? Is it

something to do with monks? I have no idea. You braise lamb breast.

Which is a terrific cut of meat. Incredibly cheap. You braise them

two hours, or so. I am a good value man, you see. The monkfish is

seriously expensive. The lamb breast, cheap as chips. This is

going to tick over two hours. When it is ready, basically you strip it

of the sinew. All of the big some pieces you don't need and you are

left with that. Beautiful. You do the vegetables. I am getting out of

the way. No, it is nice to have you here. It is a delight to be had.

Galton, you will do the pane. A little vinaigrette. Leeks

vinaigrette. Again coming from Elizabeth David. I know I harp on

about her. When I was 18, 19, my neighbour asked me to cook in a

restaurant as I got Elizabeth David's Italian food and made a

blackboard menu and everyday learn to cook. Basically... This

vinaigrette. Soft boiled eggs. So that we can pour yolk into the

dressing. We dice that. Are you listening? It will thicken it, and

Dijon mustard. All of my favourite things. Good, that is what it is all

about. The one thing that would put me off doing this and I've looked at

doing it at home, it is a fiddly job to get the beat out. It is not

incredibly fiddly. -- meat. I was wrong it is not incredibly fiddly if

you are Matt! I only want the good stuff, do you know who I am? ! There

is a chapter in the book, thou shalt not cut off the fat. It is having

real fat, not processed. Fat is no longer the enemy. What is important

is a balanced diet. I have a balanced diet, just probably too

many of them. Going back to music. We just played that amazing piece.

You said you play it. It is not one we play gigs. Everybody knows it

because it was music to the film review show on BBC. But it is a

lovely, lovely tune and I enjoyed playing it. Jazz is a great part of

my life and we are playing live in London, July the 23rd, at the Soho

Jazz club. At the pizza express, other pizza restaurants are

available. That was the first one. There are a couple of big venues.

Roddy Scott's will stop we have done Sunday lunch there. It was an

extraordinary thing to say I never thought I would get to Ronnie

Scott's. If you had to choose one thing? I am a writer first. I have

built my career by never be asked the question, where do you see

yourself in five years? I've tried to get away with it. Writing is what

I know best and I love performing, so I hope I never had to choose. Is

there a synergy between music and food Chris there is in terms of

jazz. Traditionally jazz was in bars and restaurants. I have a joke about

the professional musicians who play with me, which is they have seen

watched people eat in the best restaurants in London, where they

play! I love a piano in a restaurant. As long as they do not

play endless Chris de Burgh. Who is fine, other wistful Irish musicians

are available! Have you been to New Orleans? I have stopped and the

amazing thing is the quality of every band you have never heard of

in every cafe down the strip. I was blown away by the fact that you wake

up in the morning and you can hear jazz and throughout the day it is

still going on. They are of incredible quality. I am in no doubt

the reason I got the chance to do this is because people go, what, the

big floppy haired guy from Master chefs, he plays the piano, we have

to go and see what happens here. -- MasterChef. But we make sure the

music is of significant quality and I work with great musicians. A lot

of food and drink songs which plays to that. There is a growing scene in

London and elsewhere in the country and it is a marvellous thing to do.

We will not go on about jazz all day long, but are you more traditional

jazz? It is not the screechy stuff young people like, because I am very

old. I turned 50 this year and I understand about cutting edge, but I

was brought up on the musicals of the Hollywood era and they are a

source of the lot of the jazz standards we know and love. They are

tunes I am most drawn to. It don't mean a thing. Black coffee, and some

interesting stuff you might not expect. What about Gregory Porter?

He is a very traditional performer. He is a glorious singer. His

repertoire sticks to a solid soul and blues thing. He is fantastic.

There are a lot of great musicians. The Kansas Smittys. I am a huge fan.

What about the kitchen cabinet? The kitchen cabinet for those who do not

know, probably because they are watching you, is a Radio 4 panel

show about food that goes out on Saturday at 10:30am and is also

available on catch up, on Tuesday. Where could you find that? On the

BBC website! They can watch you on Saturday Kitchen and catch up with

us. We go around the kitchen taking questions on food and it is a lot of

fun will stop the only thing I do that nobody hates me for. When I

turn up MasterChef I get a bit of stick, and my reviews get a bit of

stick, but people like the kitchen cabinets. Do you want to try it? I

could do this with my fingers. It was a chapter in your book. Thou

shalt... I don't want to... It is up to you, I have done my job. I am

going to get the wind. Ollie Foster chose this and it is a

Morande M Pinot Noir. How is it? It is unapologetically lamby. You love

the meat -- meatiness? I like the things that people will throwaway,

the really strong favours. If we are going to bang an animal on the head,

we ought to eat all of it and there is no way that lamb belly should go

to feed the pets. We are going to get a good review?

It depends. That is all today on Saturday

Kitchen. Thanks to Galton Blackiston, Annabel Langbein, Jay

Rayner and Olly Smith. All the recipes are on the website. I have

had a great time, as usual, today. Have a good weekend and happy

birthday to my father-in-law. I will see you later. Cheers.

Back with the Yellows, and they're already on the Bridge of Doom.