03/12/2011 Saturday Kitchen


James Martin hosts the cookery show, with Michelin starred guest chefs Phil Howard and Nigel Haworth. Wine expert Susie Barrie is on hand to match wine to all the studio dishes.

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Some egg fried rice. It does sound nies if I could scrape if off the


bone first. Let's meet the other chef table


guests. Two Saturday Kitchen viewers.


Both foody fans, you are growing your own produce in central London?


I have a tiny balcony, and I have courgettes, tomatoes, lots of herbs.


You live in flat, you can grow Brussels sprouts and all that?


have Brussels sprouts as well. Elinor, looking at your proudest


achievements, beef Wellington, a tough dish to get right? I have


done it a couple of times. And a venison stuffed balance teen of


duck. I have only done it once, it was time-consuming. Only once is


what you need. If you want to call the show call


Ask whether Sarah should be getting food heaven or hell.


Feeling hungry? Safrg. This is the right man, an old mate of mine,


despite coming from the wrong side of the Pennine, he's a pretty good


cook. I'm not sure about the wrong side of the Pennines. How are you


boss? Good. What are we doing? partridge breast is here, to wrap


in a blanket. That will take about six to eight minutes. Top it is in


six to eight minutes. Top it is in better, doesn't it. Don't worry,ly


put it in this one. A good start then! That needs to be


in there for six minutes. You will make the stuffing, which is onions,


bacon, mushrooms and a little bit of that Cumbrian ham you have there.


Pop that over there to you. You usually do most of the work. I will


take my partridge skin off the breast, and there is a little bone


left in, just to whip that away. We don't like bones. Do you use the


whole thing in the restaurant? dish, obviously not. But you know,


you can obviously whole roast your partridge. I will create a little


pouch there. That's where the stuffing will go in. While I'm


waiting for you to get that, I have got some butter nut squash here.


Are you going to roast that off? is lovely, we will take the seeds


out and get rid of those, it is in season now. That is ready for you


to pop on that tray and get some garlic on. So the stuffing we have


there, while you are making your's. You have one done, I will explain


what is in it, we have bacon and a bit of ham, you are using local


dried ham? Cumbrian ham, which is wonderful stuff. I have a couple of


slices of white bread here, I will take the crusts off and put them


through just role them together. Put them through a pasta machine.


This is the interesting bit. you need to do is give it a bit of


a bash and make it will go through our pasta machine. What is the idea


about using the bread? It is just another medium, you basically have


a stuffing, and instead of, I pose, putting it in on the inside, they


are just going to roll it, and use it as if you were using puff pastry


or any other pastry around the outside. With partridge it can get


quite dry, you don't really want to overcook it too much. Yep. That is


two slices of bread just stuck together. You get two so you have


enough. We need to get it nice and thin. Another one.


And another one. Generally take it down to number six or seven. OK.


Once we have got that. Have you ever seen this before? It is new


territory for me, I have to say. Down south we use pastry. You have


to use the bought bread, the other stuff tends to break up. Which it


has done a little bit. I need a bit of chopped chervil. This chervil


have an aniseed flavour, like fish. You could use this for anything,


chicken, fish. It is great with fish, it really is. Pop that in to


the partridge. Like so. Just fold the fillet over the top there.


most people who haven't been up to Northcote, tell us about it?


Northcote is a 14-bedroomed hotel. Did it start as a house? It was a


textile merchant's house. We have the Northcote and the four pubs,


wae also do the food and Blackburn Rovers, which is interesting at the


moment. Why is that? I thought you were top, I don't do football?


are bottom. We roll that over like a sub. They are Kibbled onions are


they, yes. You put the stuffing on the inside,


what you must do with that is put it into the fridge for at least


half an hour. We pop that to the back because we have one there.


have the sauce there which has the mushrooms, the onion cooking down,


a little bit of stock here. We have Brussels sprouts in there, that is


probably about another minute and a bit. We have the butternut squash


there. Call us on the numbers below. If you want to put questions to us


you will do so on the font or e- mail.


I didn't realise had you pomgran net down where you are.


Yes. Lose the seeds there. I will just pass the sauce off. As well as


Northcote you have the pubs as well? We have, the Highwayman won


the Pub of the Year for Cumbria. That is brilliant for the staff up


there, they have been working really hard. Basically we do


regional food in each of the pubs. We have actually got one in


Yorkshire. Went over the borders. You have great team at Northcote.


We saw one on The Great British Menu? Lisa has been my head chef


for years, she is fantastic and will be working away today while we


are here. Good way to serve Brussels this Chris marks with the


chest nuts. You want black pepper in there. So the pomegranate goes


into the sauce there. We need to leave that to rest for a


couple of minutes, normally. have 30 seconds. Right, so we will


not leave it to rest! Marvellous, you take your butternut squash out.


Which we have here. How long has that roasts for that one? About 30


minutes. Break the butternut squash with a fork or your spoon, we want


a small amount going on to the plate, or a large amount if you are


in Yorkshire. Your pomegranate has gone in the sauce with a nobody of


butter and - a knob of butter and chestnuts. The chestnuts you can


buy already done like that? It has not been a good season for


chestnuts I believe. What do you think Phil? Chestnuts are having a


difficult time. There if you look around chestnut trees in London it


is a nightmare, they have all lost their leaves completely. This is a


big problem, but we actually are getting them from Italy. It would


be a bigger problem if we don't get them on the plate. Look at that,


slightly done. You pop it like so, you can see it is nice and pink in


the middle. Then pop our pomegranate sauce. It looks pretty


good. Tell us what it is? It is partridge in bread blanket, with a


pomegranate sauce. You get to have a dive into this,


see what you think. Partridge in a blanket.


Dive in. Basically, because it last the


bread around t it is just sandwich, isn't it! Sorry! It is partridge


sandwich. Yes, he said with a smile on his face. It is a posh sandwich,


�34. That is an expensive sandwich. When you think of all the


ingredients in a stuffing, you have the bread wrapped around it, you


have your mushrooms. She's right, it is a sandwich. Call it a


partridge sandwich. In a bank ket sounds like you have tucked it in,


and it might not be dead. It is dead, I think. It tastes delicious.


We need wine to go with this. We sent our wine expert to choose wine


This week I'm in Southampton, it is blustery by the Waterside, it is


time to hit the shops to find wonderful wines to go with the


recipe for this morning. Nigel's wonderful wintry partridge


dish is absolutely made for red wine lovers. All you have to do is


make sure you choose a wine with enough character to stand up to all


those different flavours on the plate. Now if money was no object,


I would definitely be picking up a bottle of fine red Burgandy. Or


something like this. Which is one of the best matches for game. But


I'm looking for something a little bit more affordable today, and with


that Madeira sauce, I just can't resist going for a bottle of


Portuguese red. It is the extra special Dao, dark and fruity, and


unbelievably good value. Although Portugal is best known for


producing port, in recent years it has started making some wonderful


unfortified red wines. So if you are looking for something a little


bit different to put on the dinner table and impress your friends,


then a bottle of Portuguese red is a really good option.


It smells like crushed blackcurrants and wild herbs. When


you taste the wine, the most important thing is it has enough


intensity to cope with all the different ingredients. It is ripe


and fruity, which will work brilliantly with the butternut


squash and the Brussels sprouts. It has a peppery note to compliment


the partridge. And rich enough for the Madeira sauce, the stuffing and


chestnuts. Nigel, it is seriously classy comfort food. Here is a wine


a little bit different, that can more than hold its own.


What do you reckon to that? I love Portuguese wines, that is terrific.


It is tanin, the beautiful full fruit flaif. And a bargain, great


with any game. You are not drinking? I will have a smell, I


don't drink, you should have put Vimton in, I could have pretended.


What do you think girls? Lovely. is a cracking thing, the very best


of comfort food. Big, bold flavours, lovely sweetness of the squash.


a new style of cooking with the bread? I don't know how new


sandwichs are! Slightly different. We do it with ciabatta!


If you want to appear on the series write with your name and address


and daytime phone number. Don't forget to put a stamp on your


envelope, Phil will be making his debut on the show later. What are


you making? Fillet of turbot with smoked celeriac milk puree and


hazelnut and truffle pasta. Is that OK? I will give it bash. Now we


catch up with Rick Stein on his Seafood odyssey it's in America for


a fishy BBQ, this man's timing is impecable.


This is my old friend, Jonny Apple, Jill and are at Jonny and his


wife's weekend retreat near Gettysburg in Pennsylvania. Why I


like Jonny, he lives his life for food. You can tell he spends a lot


of time in the kitchen. Actually, his main job is a chief political


correspondent for the New York Times. But it's food that we talk


about, all the time. One of the things I really like about


Americans is their authoriseness, when they do something, they --


thoroughness, when they do anything, they do it in style. I have never


seen a barbecue like this before, it is something you can imagine J


gats bee would have in his garden. And the lobster, Jonny wouldn't


have any other lobsters but Maine lobster, flown in that morning. We


were wonderful. Some great big shrimp and as par gas, and a sauce


with olive oil, basil that I made. The lobsters took ten minutes,


prime in early summer, and then some shoft shelled crabs. This is a


create American dish. You take ordinary flour and add this special


seasoning, Old Bay Seasoning, a mixture of paprika, Cayenne and


black pepper, all spice, and salt, and you stir it all in together,


and you coat the soft shell crabs in it. You can eat the whole thing,


that is why they are soft shell crabs. We only use them for bait in


pads stow. You turn them over in hot oil. You serve them with little


else. The lobster, the shrimp, and lovely champagne, what could be


nicer on a summer's morning, except Chalky is not here. I noticed you


travelling around, whether you are talking about Australia, New


Zealand, even China and India, there is a big thing towards eating


more seafood, because it is healthier, it is lighter, and it


also has to do with being by the water. We seem to be in a time when


the places people want to go are Venice, Cape Town, Hong Kong, the


old, Sydney, Padstow. You are very rude about Padstow, you said it was


a two-bit little town. I didn't use that word, I said it was plug ugly.


Betty always said to me, you didn't make it on looks, Padstow is the


same way! I know the Americans and Brits


differ on many things, but I don't think plug ugly is Padstow. He's


right about the places people go to near the water, they are taking


meat off the menu and putting on seafood. It is a social change. It


is Singapore chilli crab, I think it is a signature dish, if you like


that sort of expression of Singapore. I was in Singapore with


my mate Jonny, and we were in Raffles hotel, with Jill and Terry


our wives, we got into a taxi at the hotel, we started to say


something. We were cut in but the guy says, you want girls, we said,


no, we want Singapore chilli crab. He put his foot on the brake, after


200 yards we got out literally in Purves Street, we had one of those


dishes you remember all your life and lots of Tiger Beer. To put the


crab up, you take the tail off and cut the whole crab in half, you


need a heavy knife. Pull the claws off. You can use cooked or raw crab,


raw crab gets a better result. If you don't like killing crabs that


is fine. Pull the back shell away from the body section of the crab.


We just want the juice from the back, we don't want the brown meat,


back, we don't want the brown meat, it makes the final dish muddy. Cut


the claws at the joint, to break them up a bit.


That is so you can get into the meat. You can use a hammer if you


are worried about cutting yourself. We just have to take the head mens'


fingers out, they are the wrab's lungs for want of a better word.


They are not nice to eat. We are ready to do the stir-frying. Into


the hot wok goes sunflower oil, now the crab. It is such a good burner,


nothing like the ones in Singapore, a bit like things for melting steel,


if you ask me, I would love one in this kitchen, but they are enormous.


Now we add garlic, lots of garlic, and lots and lots of ginger, turn


out thank over a little. You don't want to let it catch, that is why I


have added it after the crab in this case, I like a bit of a fresh


taste. Now some tomato kechchup, that is good. I rarely use it, only


in prawn cocktail sauces. Soya sauce now, three or four


tablespoons, and red chilli, lots of red chilli, you can leave the


seeds out, if you like. In a dish like Singapore chilli wrab, if you


don't want to put the seeds in, I shouldn't bother to cook the dish.


Now some water. About four or five fluid ounces. The juice from the


crab. Why do I like this dish? It is a restaurant dish, it has a few


ingredients because everybody who cooks this dish, in somewhere like


Singapore has to get a move on. Finally this pepper, it has


integrity, it is not overimaginative, that is what I


don't like in cooking any more. I'm just as guilty as everyone else, I


like things clean and simple, not too many notes.


Gently ease it into a nice, white bowl. Finally, just some shredded


spring onion, it is shredded like angel hair. It looks really, really


nice. I like eating this without rice, just like it is, but with


plenty of cold beer. That Singapore chilli crab is one


of my favourite dishes in the world. Seafood and spice goes so well


together. I was hosting the British Curry Awards, 2,000 people in one


room. I thought I would have a go at making a curry with fish,


monkfish I have here. This is an authentic Indian tikka masala, it


is not the bright red tough we are used to in the UK, it is an


authentic one. I have all months, cumin, cardamon podz, yoghurt and


cream, and lime, that is the maranaide for it all. I will toast


some spices first. I will add this to all the mixture,


it gets placed in and you maranaide the fish in there as well. We will


chop this up as well. First of all, congratulations on your DVD, and


your second tour. My second tour. It has been incredible. You have


been doing it a while, over the last three years it has gone a bit


crazy hasn't it? My friend said, it has gone catastrophic, I think she


meant, I had to meant she meant stratospheric, catastrophic doesn't


sound so much of a compliment. It has gone really quickly. What do


you equate that to, being in the right place at the right time?


There is a little bit of that. I work hard as well, I know it is not


a hard job, I work a lot of hours. It is sometimes being in the right


place at the right time. I was watching the DVD of your's last


night, you get a lot of stuff in the back of your mind, it seems to


me you get half of it with the audience? It is great, I love


talking to the awence. There is nothing as funny as the public. If


you ask the right question you can get some really funny answers out


of them. Not only that you have your family to credit, your


grounding is your family. Is that the northern roots? My family are


really funy. My sister all sairs our Sarah is the only one that gets


paid for it, because we are all funny, that is true. Whenever I'm


with them, you can't write things down because it is rude, in the


middle of a Conservatives, I always make a mental note. I can't --


controversial, but I make a mental -- conversation, but a make a


mental note. I can't make too much comment because it is rude. Tell us


about your sister shopping and the underpants story. I once got cut


out of a dress in Monsoon. Don't laugh, it is not a good thing. I


was crying, and the woman said, let's go and get the scissors, stop


crying, like it happens all the time. I could have told her, I


looked at it and I said I will never get into that, and she zipped


me in and I got cut out. It should happen to every woman once, but


only once. But the underpants story? I like to pay novelty pants,


I have actually got some, I have got some on at the moment I won't


show you. I like superhero pants are my thing at the moment. I was


telling my sister, about my superhero pants, and she said, what


sort of things have they got on, I said I have some with Wonder Woman


on, and some with Shira on, she had a little pause and she went the


footballer? I didn't mean Alan Shearer of course. Absolutely


hilarious DVD, I was in fits of hysteric, tell us about the tour.


Everybody seems to be doing the tour on the comedy circuits, you


are taking over from the pop bands. In every theatre, everywhere,


because you are all doing it? People like to go out and have a


laugh, that is it. I don't like live music because it is not as


good as the CD, ever. I have to go outside, you know, I have to sit


amongst other people, they always play pesky album tracks. I'm a big


fan of a "best of" a greatest hits. I'm not a fan of live music. I see


a lot of comedy, even on days off I like to see T the tour is a


different show to the DVD, it is going well. I would like to say


we're half way through, but we're not quite half way. It is 111 dates.


You are not finishing that, part the way through that you are taking


a break and doing something new? January I'm making a series for BBC


Two, a month off the tour and then a series. What is that? It will be


a little bit of stand-up and talking to the audience. I like


talking to the public, and some guests, and my dad will be in it as


well. Your dad is in it? We did the pilot and we skrieped my dad. It


was the first time I had seen my dad with a top on he's normally


striped to the waist. I said I would pay for the heating and they


rarely have clothes on because it is so hot. It was nice to see him


in a shirt. So we Skypeed him, my dad is very good for advice, he


taught us how to abseil down the side of a building if there was a


fiefrplt it is like having a ninja for a dad.


As soon as we found out the series was commissioned, he got his teeth


done. He has gone a little showbiz on us. Wasn't your dad speaking to


on Skype and you said he was distant, that was hysterical as


well? It was my boyfriend, actually, I was in Australia and I was


Skypeing my boyfriend every day. I missed him. As soon as he answered,


his face came up on the screen I said you're too far away. He


thought I meant that I was too far away, he moved the laptop towards


him so I could see him a bit better, bless him. He's adorable. The great


thing about the public at large, there is great stories in amongst


that, it seems to me you keep feeding it and feeding it. In this


show at the moment, I talk about the lies that you get told when


your pet dies when you are little. Rather than actually being told


your pet had died, a lot of people are told it is gone to live on a


farm. There was one lady who was told her dog had got married, that


is adorable, you can't argue with that. There was another lady who


said that her fish had left to find Nemo. Parent reign credibly


imaginative. I can't make stuff like that up, you have to talk to


the public, it is ace. You spent a lot of time in your early careers


writing all manner of different stuff, not necessarily for anything.


You must have had loads of information from that? I just like


to write. I was quite creative, and I had a full-time job and stuff as


well, I used to write short plays. I had a preliminary column in the


free local paper. I don't know if anyone ever reads the free paper,


it was good practice and really fun. I got sacked from that, because I


didn't like Whitney Houston. She was in a film that I said she


wasn't very good, and the editor was clearly a massive Whitney


Houston fan, and he said he didn't need my column any more. He didn't


that was why, but I know it was why. They want me to talk about the dish


the people in the gallery. But the recipe is on the website. You had


the worst job ever? I worked in an office, I hated it so much, I used


to try to get knocked over on the way in. I wasn't suicidal, I just


wanted a couple of ribs or a leg to watch daytime telly during the week.


People have a traffic black spot, but this was a white spot, I never


got hit. There was your authentic monkfish tikka masala, I have


marinated it in the yoghurt and cream with the spices and cashew


nuts and almonds. You probably want a knife. Nothing stops me eating,


I'm all right. I will take a little bit there.


The tomatoes have gone in there with a little bit more of the spice


as well, touch of yoghurt, cream, chilli. Nice and light? It is


really fresh, lovely, very nice. Oh, it has a bit of a kick.


Will Sarah face food heaven or hell, the beautiful dessert with the


passion fruit, cream, egg, sugar, and gently stirred through Italian


meringue and left to set, more passion fruit and home made tuile


biscuit on the edge. Or food hell, fibs, Chinese style beef ribs,


poached with unI don't know, carrots and herbs, five spice,


chilli and peppercorns, and a pile of rice. Nigel, should I bother


asking you? Are you ribs or are you a very fine chocolate delice person,


passion fruit delice person? I love them both, ribs! It is because I


said the sandwich thing. I love passion fruit. 1-1. Wait until the


end of the show for the result. It is time to get on with brill baking


ideas, with Lorraine Pascale, she kick off this morning by showing us


Pretty much everything else there are also fashions in baking. One of


the big things in Britain right now, started in France, is the macaroon,


or I should say the "macaroon" (in a French accent) This is one of the


most famous food shops in Paris. It is incredible. Just so pretty.


You have got praline, peach, apricot and saffron, or salted


Carmel, oh. I think I'm going tofg Thanks France for bringing us


macaroons. Some people think that macaroons


are really daunting to make. But they are actually only posh


meringues. I have made them here in deep yellow, lovely pale green, and


now, I'm going to make them in a rich burgandy. I have 125 grams of


ground almonds, they need to be fine, blilts them if you like in a


food process -- blitz them in the food processor if you need to.


And the 125 grams of caster sugar. Now I need egg white, I need 40


grams of egg white, I wish I could see one or two. Here we need 40


grams, so this one is 32,ly need a grams, so this one is 32,ly need a


paste. Get a wooden spoon and draw all the liquid in, and you get this


lovely paste. Eventually it will all be incorporated. This is where


I colour it. I have this great dusky pink one. By the time you get


the rest of the ingredients in the colour gets lighter. Mix that in


there. That is nice. Now I'm going to make


the second part of the macaroon. Again, unfortunately, I need 40


grams of egg white. This one only weighs 28 grams. I need 12 more


grams. That is perfect. Then I need so whisk them to a nice medium peak.


Give it a really good whisk, move the bowl around and get lots of air


into it. The more movement you can get into the whites the quicker


they will froth up. Little bit on the end, that is a medium peak,


perfect. So I'm going to make a meringue,


normally you add sugar to the egg whites, I'm adding a sugar syrup. I


have boiled 110 grams of sugar and two table poons of water. I like to


use a mechanical whisk, because it takes longer to give a good whisk


up. You need the extra power. It just gets shiner and shiner, much


more than if you are using caster sugar. That is tip peak. I will


combine the two, you add the meringue to the paste. If you do it


this way round you won't knock out the air. If you dump the heavy mix


on top of the meringue there will be no air left to it. It only takes


50 turns, any more and you are doing the wrong thing. Let's see


how I go. Mix it all up. Scrape down to the bottom. I'm very happy


with that. I will fill up my piping bag. Just use your hand to squeeze


it off the spatula. I have this baking tray here. A


Little Chefy trick here. Moving that out of the way. I will put the


parchment paper on the top to stop it sliding around. Hold your bag


completely vertical, squeeze it, flat. What I do is just pick it up


and then drop it on the surface, do that a few times. One more time.


They will go nice and flat. I'm going to leave these here for about


20-30 minutes so, they form a lovely skin over the top. Then I


will bake them in the oven, for about 12-15 minutes at 170 degrees,


with the oven to be left slightly ajar, so it doesn't get too humid


in there. I'm going to leave these to cool.


These need to be sandwiched together, I will use just whipped


cream, you can use jam, began nash, butter cream, anything you like,


really. These get a nice blob of cream. Then just sand which have


them together. Squish them down, it is nice to have the cream visible


and coming out a little bit from the sides. I can't wait to eat


these. These really do look very pretty. I'm going to take these


round to a friend, I think they will really like them.


You can see more great recipes from Lorraine straight after on BBC at


11.30. Still to come, Keith Floyd is in Northern Ireland,'s with a


local top chef. Eating his Waugh through the entire menu, he turns -


- eating his way through the entire menu he turns beef and oysters. Now


Phil will be having a crack at the omelette challenge, looking for


eggs-pearience and you will see all the action later on, and what will


we cook for Sarah, passion fruit or food hell ribs. Passion fruit or


delice? Sweetest tooth in town, I'm all passion fruit. Cooking next is


a man making his debut, from the top London restaurant, The Square,


it is the brilliant Phil Howard. It has taken five years to get you on


the show. You are finally here, what will you cook? A piece of


turbot with a smoked celeriac milk puree, and a truffle hazelnut pesto.


We need to get on with the celeriac? The big challenge is to


get that happening, it is all about getting that, that needs to be cut


into wedges and baked, it is about trying to get flavour into the milk,


which we then have to set with a new wave gelling agent called ag ar


ag ar, it has been around for years and creeping into the restaurant


world, it is a henous thing but has spectacular uses. I remember I


started my training in The Square, it started 20 years ago. It was


very classical, it still is, you stick by the classic roots of


cooking? It is absolutely, without exception, classical combinations


of flavour. That is where we stay classical. I'm an absolute believer,


nobody has demonstrated to me that a weird and wonderful whacky


combinations of flavour are better, pears with red wine, chocolate with


orange, those are the things that make me happy and Mike may stomach


happy. That is what we all love. The flavours are classical. But the


challenge must be in central London, because you have all the new guys


opening up as well, the challenge must be to keep doing something


different, surely? Humans, we're all, 99.9% of us are greedy. We


love food. Stomachs and tongues don't lie, delicious food is


inantly recoginsable. I like to think that is what we -- instantly


recoginsable, I like to think that is what we rely on. We stick with


classic flavours that are delicious, people respond, and that keeps them


coming back. It is a competitive, modern world, you can't sit around


cooking delicious though it is, beefburg I don't know for 20 years,


you have to do more than just the basics. This is a great example.


Taking something, you are acknowledging what is delicious


about it, but you are giving it a slight modern interpretation.


Sweat the celeriac, it has to be tender. A little salt right at the


last minute. This is where the classic thing comes to mind, it is


turbot, you love this fish. I love this fish, and the humble piece of


cod too, there is nothing like turbot. For me it is the king of


all fish. It is white fleshed, squeaky clean. It is mighty, it has


a great texture. Would you agree with that? Absolutely. The big


turbot, are just unbelievably good, aren't they. He would probably put


it in a sun blessed blanket! would have to make a net. Just


having turbot on the bone? It is one of nature's great. For a top


ten ingredient, this would be one of them. As well as The Square in


central London, you are working with another two restaurants?


partner in a restaurant called the Ledbury. It is great restaurant.


happens to have two Michelen stars? I think it will probably end up


with three soon. Nothing to do with me. I take credit in training the


young man, but Brett Graham is a phenomenally talented cook. He's


one of the only chefs in the country who dovetails classic


cooking with modern flair it's great. Then something else called


Kitchen 98, a modest affair. With a Michelin star as well? Yes!


long? About four minutes. Because this celeriac is grated, it loses


its flavour into the milk incredibly quickly. All we have to


do now is, with a bit of luck. will cook my cabbage, a good tip


for you at Christmas time, don't boil it, just cook it with a bit of


stock and butter, that is it. In a hot pan. We have some stock here,


throw that in. A few knobs of butter, straight in, you throw the


cabbage in and do Brussels sprouts the same way. This is the infused


milk? We have infused milk. What we have to do is cook it out with agar


it is a completely natural gelling agent. You need a surprisingly


small amount. It is instead of gel teen, you are turning a liquid into


a solid, it has a very different mouth field, a strange texture to


eat. When you are doing desserts you


wouldn't swap it? No. Gelatine is soft and supple. What is weird


about agar, it can set a jelly and you can serve it warm, up to 80


degrees. You bring it up to the boil t has worked its magic. The


next thing is to smoke it. This is a clever little trick. What do we


need, a bit of clingfilm on there. We are going to cover it with


clingfilm. There is a gadget for you? Fancy. A little gap there, we


pick this thing up. We fill the pan with smoke. Our cameraman is happy,


he hasn't seen anything like that since Top Of The Pops and Dusty


springfield it's getting one of them! The smoke will penetrate and


flavour. This has cooled down, this has to get put into, the only


problem we might have here, is struggling with total volume with


the blender. Let's get that cranked. It gets pretty volume lid, like


thick mashed po potato -- potato. We haven't got enough of it? Try to


get some plastic there. We will end up with my feet sticking out of the


good. Do you want me to top it with the


topping? Top it with the hazelnut and let that sit. That is where the


recipe can end, but I have also brought along the truffle, just


because I can! Just because it is that time of year. But the recipe


is 99% magic just as it is. This is not as smooth as it should be. In


fact, it is still warm enough here. We will give it a quick go.


It should be supersmooth. Cabbage is a great thing, a humble thing,


but a great thing. As well as the restaurants as well, you are


writing your first book? The first book, well it very nearly made it


to the finish line, but in the end, in order to get everything in there


that I wanted to get in there, not as smooth as it should be, but


lovely, rich. That is delicious. There is a magnificent bit of


turbot. It does look great, I have to say. It is just like that it is


great. If you want to be indulgent about it. And cover up the craney


puree! There is turbot in a posh blanket! It is turbot with a


hazelnut and truffle pesto and smoked celeriac puree. It has been


five years, but the man is a genius!


We are looking forward to the book. I will definitely have one of those


smoky things. Have a seat. What can you say. The truffle


blanket would be better, wouldn't it! Ever had black truffles before?


I will have a bit of everything if I can. In season at the moment,


British truffles? They are just coming into seasons, they are where


they are. That is very good, not a sandwich insite, well done fella. -


- Insight, well done fella. It is a long time since someone said that


to me! Let's see what wine will go with


When I first read Phil's recipe, I was transported to my very own food


heaven. And a heavenly dish deserves a heavenly wine. In this


case that, for me, would be a rich nutty white Burgandy, something


like this, that would compliment the turbot and other luxurious


ingredients in Phil's dish, perfectly. But all last, good white


Burgandy is expensive. I'm looking for an every day alternative, here


it is. It is the Finest SSomoma County Chardonnay. It is made from


Chardonnay, the same grape variety as white Burgandy, it is also aged


in oak, it has a similar smoky richness, that will work


brilliantly with Phil's dish. That is a mix of lemon zest and


creamy, nutty aromas. What is lovely about this wine is its


freshness will balance the richness of the celeriac puree and the


buttered cabbage, while the toastie notes will pick up on the hazelnut


pesto. It won't overpower the turbot, but it can cope with the


overall earthness of the dish. As I have already said, this is my idea


of food heaven. Although it is not white Burgandy, it is a very fine


alternative. It is a great match, for a fish dish it packs a big


punch. Smoky flavours and truffles. The Chardonnay goes fantastic, top


choice. You are happy with the food. It has gone that way and back again.


Nigel what do you reckon? Brilliant, I love the combination of the fish


and truffles, but the cabbage really works well with truffles,


the cheapest of ingredients with the most expensive and the wine


just, it is beautiful. It is really good. Now it is time to find out


exactly what we should be eating all right now from Mr Valentine, he


suggests we should be eating venison, I like black truffle, but


For me one of the greatest autumn treats is venison, I have come to


the Western Isles of Scotland to get some of the best. Venison, the


dark, red succulent meat we get from deer, is a delicious


alternative to beef, all of the flavour with a tenth of the fat.


These days you can get it in many butchers and supermarkets. There


are six types of wild deer in Britain, my favourite is red deer,


autumn is the great time to eat them, after a summer of grazing.


Scotland is home to the largest number of read deer in the UK. This


island, where people are outnumbered by deer 30-1, is a


spectacular place to hunt them. I'm heading up the Glenn with Euan, who


has been working on the estate for 19 years, and knows the 30,000


acres like the back of his hand. Six hours after we started hunting,


we crawled to the crest of a hill, and there before us is the perfebt


stag for the larder. We have done it, our stag has fallen on the


other side of the hill. My stag needs to be hung for at least a


week before it is ready to eat. I have some ready to cook. With


Euan's help I will make supper for Andrew and his wife.


This is what it's all about. The fantastic Dura venison. We will


have a big, deep, delicious venison pie. To start off my pie I'm going


to chop up some locally grown to chop up some locally grown


onions and carrots. It is nice having these mad carrots. I will


use a good old fashioned bit of dripping. First put a good knob of


beef dripping or butter in a hot pan. Add the onion and fry until


soft. Do you want to put a spoonful of


mustard powder in there. While you are at it, stick some teaspoons of


flour in there. Add a generous grating of nutmeg.


Some thyme, and black pepper. Strangely, the odd bit, two ginger


biscuits. I have never seen this before. It is Sweden and Denmark


kind of way to do it, it also helps thicken up the sauce as well. Good


splash of malt vinegar. Add all the carrots, it might seem a bit


unusual not browning the meat. Occasionally with venison it can


really clench up, you don't want that. This will be relaxing,


hopefully. Now for some good dark ale, that is proper dark ale. Last,


but not least, a good spoonful or two of brown sugar. That's going to


go in the oven, and have a nice hour-and-a-half. That will be time


for some of this home made sloe g in. Good idea. After a glass or two


of his slow gin, it is time to check on the venison. I put it into


a pie dish and topped with puff pastry. We are going to decorate


the pie. That is a masterpiece! what though! Look at him! Majestic.


It is kind of cute, really. A bit sad.


I'm going it put this in the oven. After 40 minutes the pie will be a


rich, hazelnut brown, and ready for the table. I have to thank you very


much. There is local brown ale. scar rots and onions out of -- The


carrots and onions out of my garden. The meat is really tender. It is


very tender, the venison, is chunks, they are much chunker bits than


normal, very tender. This is the happy mountainside meat. This is a


brilliant meat, great grilled or roasted. It makes the greatest


snacks ever. First make a spicy tomato sauce, add olive oil to a


hot pan, dice a red chilli and fry. Add some chopped tomatoes, a good


squeeze of lemon juice. A pinch of salt, a teaspoon of sugar.


Pop in a stick of aromatic cinnamon. And sprinkling of punchy ground


cumin. Now leave the sauce to bubble away while you get on with


the rest of the recipe. Cut a piece of venison fillet into


small chunks. Season with salt and pepper. Coat with a dash of olive


oil, fry in a hot pan. Put the succulent browned venison on warmed


flat bread, finely slice some crisp white cabbage.


Cut a gherkin into thin slices. Then pile on thin slivers of red


onion. Next spoon over the spicy tomato


sauce. For extra yummyness, chop a clove of garlic, stir in some may I


don't know in this case and dollop on. Top with a sprig of mint. Roll


it up and tuck in. The best kebab ever.


A napkin next time. More great recipes next time. Time for foody


questions. Each will decide what Sarah will be having for lunch at


Sarah will be having for lunch at the end of the show.


First is Susan on the line. Are you there? I am. Good morning. What is


your question? My question is any tips or advice on how to cook wild


duck? Wild duck, right, wild duck is a completely different dish to


domestic duck. You have remember it will dry out quickly. If you are


going to cook wild duck don't cook it through, keep it nice and medium.


Make sure that you are going to serve it with a fruit, pickled dam


sons go well with it. If you are cooking it off the bone, a breast


will cook in six to eight minutes, on the bone, you are talking about


20 minutes. The legs of duck you would confit those? You can take


the legs off and slow cook them. What dish would you like to see at


the end of the show, heaven or hell? Heaven, please. 1-0 so far.


Sue are you there? I am indeed. What is your question for us?


question is, a good way of cooking goose for Christmas? Phil, goose?


We are cooking goose on our Christmas lunch menu, trickery bird


to cook, there is no escaping the fact that goose, even the breast,


it is not tough but not tender like a duck. You have to be careful with


the breast. We take the leg off, cook it separately in goose fat, we


shred it and make it into a spring roll, which we serve with the


breast, which we also take off the bone. We score it to render a lot


of fat off, render the fat in a pan, turn it over, pop it in the oven


for eight to ten minutes t must be medium, if it is rare it will be


chewy and bland, if over it will be hard work. A goose is trickery. Or


you put the whole thing, and you cook it slowly until it is cooked


through. It almost confits on the bone. What would you like at the


end of the show, heaven or hell. would like to see heaven. Good luck


with the goose. Are you there Di, what is your question for us?


morning, my son has brought me home a large piece of topside/rump


roasting joint, no fat on t but it weighs over two kilos. What is the


tenderest way to roast it and way temperature? It is not the most


fashionable meat for roasting, if you are going to roast it, don't


overcook it, I would suggest that you put it in a hot oven, something


like about 200, and then turn it down to something like about 10,


and make sure you don't overtook it. The other thing I might add, if,


with top side, it make as great ragu, but not in the traditional


way. If you cut it up and cut it into inch pieces, pan roast them


and put the sauce in it, and still serve it medium, that works


fatastically well, it doesn't Don do well cooked through. If you have


a butchers nearby you can place lard. You want to get fat in there.


You can't to get fat over the top, a piece of lard over the top would


help. What dish, heaven or hell? Heaven. 3-0, a smile on your face.


All of our callers have gone for heaven. We are recording a New


Year's Eve edition of the programme, next week, we would like you to


send us your seasonal foody questions to answer as part of the


show. A spicy supper to awaken the tastebuds after the Christmas food.


We will be here to help. Find out on the website how to get the


questions to us. Now down to business. The usual rules apply,


three-egg omelette cooked as fast as you can. A respectable time


there Phil. What about you? seconds it can't be an omelette.


say they don't take it seriously, look at the looks on their faces.


At last, a proper omelette, five years I have waited for that!


Instead, every Saturday I have to wake up to this stuff, look at it.


That is nearly there. Nearly there! And he has truffles. You should be


ashamed. Check this out, I know you want to taste it. Where is that


truffle. That is not raw. That is lubrication in the middle. That is


filth, that might be a little bit undone, slight low under. Phil,


Howard. Straight to the top, pole position. You did it in 38.24


seconds, but because you got black truffle in t I have knocked five


seconds off, you did it here. There. Pretty respectable. Nigel, not a


chance. Come on! I'm not putting that on. Will Sarah get her food


heaven or hell, callers are going for heaven, the guys in the studio


have yet to make their minds up. That truffle is Dell illusion


shoeious. First a foodie -- delicious, first a foodie film from


Floyd around Britain, he's in Ireland, dropping into a great


restaurant for some great food. He couldn't decide on what to order so


the chef has made him the entire menu. In Port Rush, it is great to


find a little restaurant to celebrate the area, George is one


of a growing breed of chefs, who is not content to pay lip service to


the French, but are creating local dishes second to none. He's cooking


salmon, halibut, lobster in a light creamy champagne and butter sauce.


Although it looks extravagant, it is simple, what is superb is the


freshness of the fish, the lobster is non-essential, and the immediacy


of the cooking and serving. You have to admit that was a virtuoso


performance from George here. I must taste it. This is a town like


cleave done in Somerset, you would hardly find it dazzling selection


of stuff around there. Here we are on a blustery Northern Ireland


coast. I must taste this. What has this got to do with


Ireland? It is all ought, we are on the harbour, it is all caught by


local fishermen. Look at this, this I have never seen before. Come


close into that. It has call on the outside like faggot? It is


vegtables and fillet of lobster roasted in the oven, and served in


a lobster sauce. Your own? Yes. you wake up in the middle of the


night like a musician and run for the Yamaha, or is it carefully


thought out? Some days things come easier than others. You have to


work at it and try different ideas, and try and blend them and getting


them to work nicely together. going to cut right through the


middle, and see this very finely diced ve vegtables, inside, the


wonderful fillet of turbot at the bottom. I must taste it and the


fabulous rich fish sauce. You should feel very jealous. Now this,


fascinating, what are those? They are pork fillet chimneys, wrapped


in puff pays trees. What is the stuff on the top? Mushroom duxelle,


served with a Rosemary jus. lovely meaty sauce flavoureded. We


haven't the time to do this brilliant young chef justice what


is this? A fresh orange terrain filled with fresh summer fruits.


masterpiece, I have to say, aaward you the imperial stout for being


brilliant, for being young, you make me feel like a passe 40-year-


old, it is my programme, shove off while I do cooking. Stay with me,


off with the coat and on to cooking sketch right away.


This, then, is the beef simmering gently in beef stock and stout. I


hear you cry, what beef, what Guinness, what stock, this is the


classic modern way of cooking beef with oysters and Guinness, the


perfect TV meal. This is the perfect TV dinner. Look, wonderful


local oysters, fabulous fillet, little shallots, a bit of brown


sugar, wonderful meat glaze. The reduction of beef bones and stock


and stuff like that, a little butter and stout. As I say, if it


isn't good enough to drink it is not good enough to cook with.


Perfect. We haven't much time, so I have already poached my fillet of


beef in some meat stock and some stout, OK. I have it reduced down


to that with a few shallots in and a bay leaf. Because of the bitter


sauce you get from the stout and beef stock, a bit of brown sugar,


dissolve it in. Then whisk in a few little knobs of butter. While that


is finishing off, I will go to George in a minute, you will see


what a brilliant chef he is. Brown sugar is essential, it takes the


bitterness away and gives it a beautiful flavour. Strain the sauce,


save a bit of that. While I cut up the meat I will pop my little


oysters in for a second or two. A close-up in there Richard if you


can get it. Warm the oysters through. They are naturally raw.


You want them glazed with the sauce, only there for a second. You have


seen those. Carve that down, cooked, if I may say, to perfection, pink


in the middle. Thin slivers of fillet of beef. Maybe because this


is for George, I should make a better effort and overlap them like


that. A bit of my julienne of vegtables. I have made hundreds of


these programmes I still get nervous cooking for really talented


people, it is genuinely true. My oysters can go around here.


I will get a bit more of this sauce. Under the pressure I don't suppose


I have presented it as beautifully as George might do. Come and have a


taste, tell me what you think. You might criticise the presentation bs


see if the flavours are there. looks very good, it certainly


tastes very good. Tell several million people what you think?


Fabulous, one of for our new menu. I really do think. Can I taste it


and see how I feel about that? Beautiful oysters and beautiful


beef. I told you George was a man of integrity, everything he said is


true, those oyster are perfect, the beef is brilliant, the sauce is


Will Sarah be facing food heaven or hell. You walked away. Food heaven


could be passion fruit, masses of passion fruit into a delice, I say


little, it is big, with a little tuile biscuits. Food hell would be


this pile of meat on ribs, chick Anne beef ribs, egg fried rice. It


was 3-0 to everybody at home. What have they decided? I don't know,


they look like lovely women and men, lovely people, let's fingers


crossed, have they already decided. It is 7-0, you have got passion


fruit. Is that a first. It is like a Bolton Wanderers score!


Absolutely. What we will do is take our eggs over here. If you can do


me three egg yolks and three whites. We will make our custard, that is


passion fruit. Theing whites I need in the machine, please. They will


be for a lovely Italian meringue. We have some vanilla. Nigel is


making the tuile. We have a template I have made out of an ice


cream thing. Vanilla in there, sugar. You have the egg whites, and


the egg yolks are for the custard. The whites are for an Italian


meringue. It is a cold meringue, hot where you add the sugar hot, or


boiled, or you do it this way. about the way where you buy the


meringues, I have thought of a fourth one for you! You are


probably right, I forgot about that one. We have a cream with a pile of


whipped cream in there. I can see you are tempted already.


With the custard, because this is a custard, normally with custard we


use milk, this one we don't. You add the passion fruit straight to


this, you get a better flavour to it. You put that on there, we have


cooked this out a little bit. Normally you would use milk, this


is how you make proper custard. We whisk all that lot together, until


it starts to get thick. Pour it in there. We can leave that to one


side. Meanwhile, over here, we have got the mixture, which it is, when


you leave it. It is not thick yet because we have only two leaves of


gelatine in there. We will add the cream and our meringue.


It make as lot of noise, three egg whites in there. The biscuits are


happening here, the jelly, the toppings, you have a sponge base,


then this mixture we are making now, then the jelly at the top. That is


passion fruit, passion fruit pulp, gelatine and stock syrup. This sits


with jelly on the top. It is three layiers. You bring this to the boil,


a bit noisy at this point. But the idea is you get this to what we


call soft boil, no jokes. So the idea is we bring this to the boil,


and it goes to 120 degrees centigrade, it is hotter than


boiling water, then we pour that on to the egg whites. You know when it


is ready, it just starts to turn around the edge. All that is in


there is sugar and water. The idea behind this is you allow it to come


to the boil, the water evaporates off, you end up with the mixture


which we call soft boil, it is almost candy floss, this is


basically just water and sugar brought to the boil, then spun. Our


biscuits are happening over here. I will whisk this up, we pour this


mixture carefully on to the egg whites. This is great, if you like


meringue, particularly for a lemon meringue pie, and people who are


pregnant, because it is cooking the egg whites. It cooks them, there is


no raw egg, it is already cooked. You can see that. It is looking it,


if we continue to mix this, for about two minutes, you end up with


that put your finger in there and taste. Oh my God. That is amazing.


We take our meringue there, it is sticky city point. Can I just tell


you I'm really happy right now. whisk this together like that, at


this point, you will be happier still, we take our cream. I'm just


doing noises now! We pour that in there, if you can bring me over the


mould. If we whip this all up, you see it starts to thicken up. What


you do need is it in the fridge for long enough. You pour that over


there. I have done enough for one portion, you can double this, of


course. What's everybody else having! We will pop that in the


fridge. What you need to do is leave this to rest in the fridge.


If you want to speed it up in the freezer, leave it to rest for a


couple of hours. For a couple of hours, I will have to go out!


we have the topping, it will be worth it, trust me. When you are


out, you can I buy one of these, careful when you are doing this.


All this is doing is heating up the mould. So when you come to take it


off, it should! That's my finger. You can just melt the top a little


bit, so it starts to shine up. Nigel over at the end there, has


been quite quiet. He has been beefering away making these


biscuits. These are the tuile biscuits. What about the black ones


Nigel?! Through burned some! take the biscuits, and if you start


at one end and go around. Or you do what Nigel has done. Come on.


The idea is you just make. Are they just sticking. You keep building up


and building up and building up. These are tuile biscuits made out


of butter, flour, egg white and that's about it, really. There is


some icing sugar. When they are warm they are plyable. When they


set, they set quite firm. It looks like a sun! All for you. I know you


want a smaller spoon, so I will give you that. What I will do is


cut you a portion? If there was nobody else here I wouldn't use


even that! I will heat that up, then to cut the delice, delice you


just cut it and take a slice of it. Girls I think you ought to come


over at this point. You look left out there. There is a northern


portion. That is what's left. There you have it, the girls can


have that, you can have that, dive in. We have some wine to go with


this. Susie is chosen a Muscat2009, available from Waitrose �7.25.


Sarah do I need to ask is that food heaven? Just leave us alone for a


couple of minutes, will you. Congratulations on your new DVD, it


is out in the shops now, definitely I watched it last night, a buy. I'm


always left with the bottle. That's all from today, the fantastic Nigel


James Martin hosts the cookery show, with Michelin starred guest chefs Phil Howard and Nigel Haworth. There are some great moments from Keith Floyd and Rick Stein, plus wine expert Susie Barrie is on hand to match wine to all the studio dishes.

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