21/12/2013 Saturday Kitchen


21/12/2013

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If you're wondering about this and this, don't. All will be revealed.

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It's time for 90 minutes of festive fantastic food,

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before you dash out for that last bit of gift shopping.

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This is Christmas Saturday Kitchen!

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Welcome to the show.

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Anything could happen today as in the studio with me are not one,

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not two but three Godfathers of Italian cooking.

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Look at 'em all lined up there!

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First, the man who helped this country fall in love with Italian food.

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It's the brilliant Antonio Carluccio.

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Next to him is the man making his debut with us on Saturday Kitchen,

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but he's been feeding the people of London great Italian dishes

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from his award winning cafe over the decade.

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It's Giancarlo Caldesi.

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And finally, bringing up the rear, it wouldn't be Christmas

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without a visit from the Italian Stallion himself.

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I call him the My Little Pony, but he calls it Italian Stallion.

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It's Gennaro Contaldo, of course! Merry Christmas to you all.

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-Stallion?

-Merry Christmas.

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They've started already!

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Why do I get a twig and you get this fancy, carved stick?

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-I did it myself.

-Oh, you've done it yourself?

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-Yeah.

-Fantastic.

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-This he did for me.

-This is for you.

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I did myself, this, this and I show Antonio to do that one.

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-I'm going to work on this one.

-This one is a work in progress.

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Antonio, what are you going to make for us today?

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A very simple dish, a pickle.

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And then a mighty antipasto for Christmas.

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Sounds pretty good to me, so follow that one, boss, what are you doing?

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Myself? I'm going to make some fantastic smoked salmon,

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just ready for Christmas. Beautiful penne with hot smoked salmon.

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And also smoked butter, if you like,

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which will be delightful on little toasts.

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And smoked mozzarella.

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We are smoking.

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-Smoked mozzarella?

-Yeah, we're smoking a lot today.

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Gennaro, follow that. What are you going to make for us?

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Well, if they do everything I don't have to do anything.

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I'm going to make this fantastic slow-cooked belly of pork,

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with the loin filled with chicken liver, pork inside,

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different herbs inside, spice.

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That's a bit fancy for you, isn't it?

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-It is.

-What do you mean, fancy?

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What's it called then?

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Porchetta Natalizia, Christmas porchetta.

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It's called roast, stuffed pork to you and I.

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So, three fabulous festive dishes to look forward to.

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And we've got a great line up of foodie films from the BBC archive.

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There's Christmas recipes from Rick Stein and Lorraine Pascale,

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plus brand new Saturday Kitchen treats from

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Ken Hom, Ching-He Huang and Raymond Blanc.

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Why do I need this anyway?

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Just in case... At the end.

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Don't worry, I'll be using it before the end of the show, trust me.

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Now, our special guest today is a stand-up comedy legend.

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These days he's an actor too, with starring roles

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in everything from Bleak House, to the hit comedy drama Ideal,

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as well as one of my favourite shows, Benidorm.

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Please welcome to Saturday Kitchen, the fabulous Johnny Vegas!

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WHISTLING AND APPLAUSE

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Johnny Vegas, it's been seven years to get you on,

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-we've finally got you on.

-Yeah, I know.

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And we've stuck you in a Christmas jumper.

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Well, you put it on a Saturday morning, didn't you?

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-If ever... Do this on a Friday night, you can have me every...

-Exactly!

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What do you normally get up to on a Saturday morning then?

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-I genuinely wake up and watch this.

-Is it?

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Are you a keen chef then, dabble in the kitchen at all?

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I'm a keen chef but I'm not the best.

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I need to build up, I need to practise, practise, practise.

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My wife's a phenomenal chef.

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She made the final of Celebrity MasterChef in Ireland.

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But I... I like to learn slowly.

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What's one of the Johnny Vegas dishes

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that when we go round to your house, what would be on the menu?

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I make, and I don't care how good your loin is...

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THEY LAUGH

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I thought he was doing Gandalf then!

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That was building up to... "Thou shalt not pass!"

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THEY LAUGH

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I make the best pea shoot pesto ever.

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-Pea shoot pesto, absolutely divine.

-Is the way forward.

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Yeah, and I've got it down to...

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And I know it's a simple dish, but people mess it up.

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And there's argument over roasting the pine nuts or not.

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I've got it down to a... That is my one signature dish.

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-What do you think of Italian food?

-Love Italian food.

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It's a good job, isn't it? Otherwise we're both stuffed!

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Yeah. Well, nothing says Christmas more than that.

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You can just imagine what a Christmas Nativity play in Italy's going to look like!

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At the end of today's programme

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I'll cook either food heaven or food hell for Johnny.

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It'll be based on your favourite ingredient, food heaven,

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or your nightmare ingredient, food hell.

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Because it's Christmas

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we're going to let fate decide what you'll get at the end of the show.

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Food heaven, what would it be?

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-Er, shellfish.

-Shellfish?

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Anything seafood, I love.

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It's the one thing I don't have any confidence with cooking.

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And something I thought I was allergic to.

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I know you like crab as well.

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Soft shell crab is my absolute ideal.

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-GENNARO BANGS HIS STICK

-And food hell, what would it be?

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Christmas pudding.

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I know it's a very untraditional thing to say

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but it just doesn't do it for me. It was never served in our house.

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I almost think it was seen as kind of too traditional, too posh.

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It could be turned into an ice cream.

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First of all, it's either soft shell crab or Christmas pudding for Johnny.

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For food heaven I'm going to do one of the best things...

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Don't choose it based on what I said about the first...

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Trust me, I'm not. Don't worry about that.

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A soft shell crab deep-fried.

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I'll coat the crab in a light batter infused with vodka and tonic.

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Served with a garlic and saffron aioli

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-and a pile of chips on the side. How does that sound?

-Oh!

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Or Johnny could be facing food hell, Christmas pudding,

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which I'm also going to try to deep-fry.

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The pudding is cooked

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and then mixed with some home-made vanilla ice cream.

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And it's served on top of some sauteed pieces of pineapple,

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finished off with a festive caramel

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with some cinnamon, nutmeg and star anise.

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You'll have to wait until the end of the show

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to find out which one he gets.

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Right, waiting at the hobs is the Italian master himself,

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the feast of Christmas wouldn't be the same without him.

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It's the brilliant Antonio Carluccio.

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-Right, chef, what are we making?

-Fantastic saying today.

-Yeah?

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-Bella figura.

-I'm going to put my stick down.

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-That's like a little tasting dish, is it?

-Yeah.

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We start to collaborate here because this is something you

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can fry, that's how to treat, sort of, artichokes, which are lovely.

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-You see, you take all the...

-The outside.

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We're starting off with the artichokes.

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The idea is this is like a little...

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Well, a big plate of tasting little bits and pieces.

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The antipasto.

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Everybody says antipasta. It's not.

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It doesn't come before the pasta, it does,

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but antipasto is because pasta is a meal. Now you have the tender part.

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To here there is a little choke, we take it out

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because it's no good, you will be choking. You take it like this.

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Now it's ready to be cut in little things like this.

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Don't cut your finger, Antonio, just slowly.

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-Gennaro.

-Yes, all right?

-Can I say...

-No, don't say.

-Shut up.

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Just in case, because I'm not there.

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This looks like a TV test, with a line going down the middle.

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-You put it into flour and then you deep-fry it.

-I can do that.

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I'll get that out of the way for you. I'll do all that.

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Meanwhile, I'll do the cauliflower, I'll prepare it.

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-Let me get this out of the way for you. I'll do that.

-Little florets.

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This is one part of it. You've got a mixture of hams.

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The first part is pickling...

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This wonderful noise. This is vinegar and a bit of water.

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So the pickling of those vegetables with a bit of sugar and salt.

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Where would this come from, which part of Italy with this come from?

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This one is called Jardiniera or garden vegetables.

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It comes all over Italy. You have it.

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Then you take sort of peppers like this.

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And you cut. It's all life here, real life.

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You see, you take this and you put it in.

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Then you take the yellow one as well, which is good.

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So is this a traditional thing at Christmas, or is it something...

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This one I'm making now, yes.

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In Napoli it's called Rinforzo, Because everybody goes

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and picks from this pickled stuff to have a different taste.

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Little carrots, put them in. This is borrettane onion.

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I don't know if you can find it everywhere.

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You can take the normal pickled onions.

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A little bit of heat, yes.

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And then the cauliflower, which is lovely.

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-Do you want me to come and help you, Antonio?

-No, very kind, Gennaro.

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-You've got James, then, cutting the things.

-Save the power for yourself.

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THEY LAUGH

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I don't think he's being generous.

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I forgot to apply deodorant today.

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He's just desperate to come and join you.

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THEY LAUGH

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Is there many famous Italian stand-up comedians?

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James is thinking he can drink with that.

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-Yes, but they are not very good.

-Yeah, he's called Gennaro!

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ALL LAUGH

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-You can already fry those.

-I'm on it, chef.

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These will be the boiling stuff.

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In life it is a little bit impossible because you

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cook about 10 minutes first, then another 20 minutes later.

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So you want a bit of flour in here, seasoning.

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Exactly, and deep fry them.

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-A bit of seasoning and deep-fried.

-Because...

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-The idea is we've got a mass of pickled veg.

-Yes.

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Which are all in... You see, they have done something here.

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I can use those for the assembly. Take away the vinegar.

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-These look pretty good. So these are the ones that you've done.

-Yes.

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Would you have to leave this in the liquor for long or what?

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Bring it to the boil and then don't boil them over that,

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a little bit of crunch is not bad.

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This is the mixture now.

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I had a little bit of olive. Yes.

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This is put in the corner, a bit of oil, olive oil.

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-I'll move you over there. You are constantly busy, you never stop.

-No.

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New book on the horizon?

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Yes, in April it's coming, a new pasta book. A little bit of oil.

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-A new pasta book?

-Yes. That's lovely, look.

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You pass by, strategy position...

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-You are peckish for something, it's wonderful.

-Sounds pretty good.

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You can start then to drink. Quite a lot of champagne.

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-Quite a lot of champagne, yes.

-This is a pate, duck pate.

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-Duck liver pate.

-Yes, and it's very good. We do crostini of that.

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Meanwhile, I will take the big plate.

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For the big assembly of an antipasta. Look at this.

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Naturally I have to take also the mushroom.

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Every Italian preserves his mushrooms jealously in autumn,

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-mushroom and other things.

-Are these are the mushrooms I picked, Antonio?

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I'm just asking! He's always got me picking mushrooms.

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Gennaro, you are offending people!

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THEY LAUGH

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This is like a traditional family Christmas, isn't it?

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With the two of them squabbling and us sitting here feeling awkward.

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I know!

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-Do you go round to his house at Christmas or not?

-Yes, he did.

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He goes because he needs money.

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THEY LAUGH

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So this is pickled mushrooms.

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With friends like this you don't need any enemies, do you, really?

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No, no. You don't need entertainment. Put in the centre.

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-In the bowl?

-No, like this.

-OK.

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This is preserved mushrooms.

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-You want me to do the butter?

-Yes.

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A little bit of butter and anchovy on the other one.

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What's in the butter, this looks like truffle, no?

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Yes, truffle butter. There's the salami there.

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That's it here.

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Then we have your production of... Look at this.

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This is all handmade instantly, so you don't need to cook very much.

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-With the exception of this stuff here.

-What is that, Salami Milano?

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No, this is the felino.

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This is a very hot sausage, smoked.

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But I will show you what to do with the mozzarella.

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-What's the name of this one?

-Salsiccia affumicata. That's enough.

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Smoked sausage will do for you and I.

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THEY LAUGH

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Try asking for that in your shop!

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Smoked sausage.

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Salsiccia affumicata, come on!

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Asked Gennaro, he knows.

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It's a generic name, anyway.

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And you do this, the mozzarella in fingers.

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Then you envelope it with speck. The speck is from Tirol.

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-Where's the speck? No, there, there.

-The speck is there.

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Don't take it away.

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We will take a piece here. It's a lovely thing to do.

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Number one... Put it there.

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I've had this before, when you wrap it in speck like that

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and you pan fry it which is lovely, isn't it?

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No, this is better.

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THEY ALL LAUGH

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Wipe and fry it. Here.

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And now, the piece de resistance...

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"Do you remember that time with...?" "No, I don't. I don't, James."

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It's just like Christmas, isn't it?

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Whatever you do is opposite, it's fine.

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No, this is bottarga.

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-You know bottarga?

-I know bottarga, yeah.

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Don't say that, he'll deny it!

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It's nothing else but air dried for you ignorant.

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THEY LAUGH

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It's air dried.

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THEY CONTINUE TO LAUGH

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You eat antipasto, such little rings there with fennel.

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-We take away this one here.

-Have we got enough?

-Yes, plenty there.

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-Tell us the name of it.

-This is Grand Antipasto di Natale.

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This is Insalata di Rinforzo, and then you eat

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all of this before the dish of Gennaro,

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because you need something good before that.

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Check that out!

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Which are you taking?

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-I take it to them.

-You take this one.

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-I'll take this.

-Help him, help him.

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ALL LAUGH

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You've got to be careful, you are nearly getting this thrown over you!

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It's only you. With pleasure I would like to pour this on to your head.

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The best.

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-Carluccio!

-Oh, beautiful!

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This is part of Italian culture,

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but each region will probably do with completely different.

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Shut up and get it in your mouth!

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-What do you reckon?

-The English have a word for this.

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Quality Street.

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THEY LAUGH

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Right, we need some wine to go with this.

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We sent our very own dynamic duo, Susie Barrie and Peter Richards

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to a snow covered Hertfordshire to pick the wines for the studio.

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So what have they chosen to go with Antonio's sensational salad?

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Christmas is around the corner, but are we really ready?

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-We've got the tree.

-The presents are wrapped.

-We're all set for food.

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We've got the compulsory silly outfits.

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All we need now is some wine. So let's hit the shops.

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Mrs Claus, your carriage awaits!

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Who needs Rudolph?!

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Antonio, how could you do this to us?

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It's a wonderfully invigorating, crunchy, pick-me-up

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of an Italian appetiser, but it is most wine's worst nightmare,

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with its pungent, vinegary kick and challenging ingredients,

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like the capers, the olives and the anchovies.

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But we are more than up for this delicious test.

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The key is to soften the flavours

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while also tying in with that aperitif feel.

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One thing that works well as New Zealand sauvignon blanc,

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or a light, crisp Italian white like this delicious Extra Special Gavi.

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But really, the one wine that hits this particular

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nail on the head is Italy's favourite fizz, Prosecco.

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So, Antonio, for your Insalata di Rinforzo with Italian salami,

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we've chosen the Villa Jolanda Prosecco extra dry.

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The term "extra dry" on the label funnily enough actually means

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this wine has a touch of sweetness, and that's exactly what

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we need to counteract the salty and vinegary flavours in Antonio's dish.

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This is such a delicious, easy drinking Prosecco.

0:17:460:17:49

It's floral and succulent and has a natural, fresh, fruity character

0:17:490:17:54

that will offset the tangy vegetables and complimented that savoury salami.

0:17:540:17:59

It is rich enough to stand up to the stronger flavours in the dish,

0:17:590:18:03

the anchovies, the capers, the black olives and the onions,

0:18:030:18:06

but at the same time it will refresh your palate

0:18:060:18:09

between each punchy mouthful.

0:18:090:18:11

So, Antonio, here's raising a festive glass

0:18:110:18:14

of great value Italian fizz to your vibrant, colourful dish.

0:18:140:18:18

-And to your very good health.

-Cheers!

0:18:180:18:20

-Cheers indeed. What do you think of that?

-I didn't taste it yet.

0:18:240:18:29

I think it's fantastic, this.

0:18:290:18:31

-It's perfect.

-Nine quid, bit of a bargain.

-Yes, very much so.

0:18:310:18:35

It's quite dry.

0:18:350:18:36

It's wonderful because the vinegary aspect of some of that

0:18:360:18:41

collides usually with wine. But this one is perfect.

0:18:410:18:44

What about if you ask Johnny Vegas? Does it go with your pate?

0:18:440:18:50

Oh, beautifully!

0:18:500:18:51

What it does, it really helps food to go down.

0:18:530:18:55

THEY LAUGH

0:18:550:18:57

Right, coming up, Giancarlo has a couple of ideas for how to

0:18:570:18:59

serve your Christmas smoked salmon.

0:18:590:19:01

What are you going to do with it?

0:19:010:19:03

Absolutely, yes. We are going to smoke in a special box.

0:19:030:19:06

It will be absolutely superb.

0:19:060:19:08

Now, let's get some Christmas ideas with a Spanish twist

0:19:080:19:10

from the great Rick Stein.

0:19:100:19:12

He's having a party to celebrate all the great food

0:19:120:19:15

he's found on his trip around Spain.

0:19:150:19:16

-Today he's making something called...

-Picada.

0:19:160:19:20

My favourite memories of Spain remain firmly fixed in the older places

0:19:240:19:28

that are yet to be touched by the hands of rapid progress.

0:19:280:19:33

Quixote's Spain, where quality is still celebrated despite poverty.

0:19:330:19:37

I first visited in 1955, and ever since then

0:19:400:19:45

I've collected vivid memories of new and exciting taste sensations.

0:19:450:19:50

Freshly cooked hake, octopus and anchovies,

0:19:500:19:53

black puddings made in front rooms

0:19:530:19:55

and distributed to all the households in the village.

0:19:550:19:59

Asturian cider,

0:19:590:20:00

enormous grilled ribs of beef cooked rare.

0:20:000:20:04

-Gracias.

-Salud.

-Salud.

0:20:040:20:06

Everywhere, the locals had a sort of take-it-or-leave-it attitude

0:20:060:20:09

to their cuisine, but were always delighted

0:20:090:20:12

if you shared in their passion.

0:20:120:20:14

And that passion is something I continue to share to this day

0:20:140:20:17

with Spanish friends who live much closer to home,

0:20:170:20:20

right here in the UK.

0:20:200:20:23

But not just Spanish friends.

0:20:230:20:25

This is Richard Bigg, a restaurateur and bar owner

0:20:250:20:28

in the East End of London, who's made it his life's passion

0:20:280:20:31

to introduce Spanish cuisine to Britain.

0:20:310:20:34

Richard, what do you think about Spanish produce?

0:20:340:20:36

Do you think it's underrated in this country?

0:20:360:20:39

I think actually people are beginning to understand it now,

0:20:390:20:41

that the quality of the produce is fantastic.

0:20:410:20:44

When people went to Spain on their holidays,

0:20:440:20:46

they went to the Costas.

0:20:460:20:47

You've got to venture further afield to find the real stuff.

0:20:470:20:50

And that's exactly what I did when I went to visit a renowned cook

0:20:500:20:54

who lives in the hills north-west of Barcelona.

0:20:540:20:57

Merce Brunes and her team have created a Garden Of Eden here.

0:20:570:21:01

Oh, my gosh!

0:21:010:21:03

Walking into her larder is like entering an Aladdin's cave.

0:21:040:21:08

To tell you the truth, when I walked in there,

0:21:100:21:12

I just thought it's sort of like Alice Waters.

0:21:120:21:15

This has got to be a female's kitchen.

0:21:150:21:19

It's like a big flower arrangement.

0:21:190:21:21

Everywhere I look is a delight for the eye.

0:21:210:21:24

Merce's place excels at celebrating

0:21:250:21:28

the best that Catalonia has to offer,

0:21:280:21:30

and encourages the use of local produce.

0:21:300:21:33

What Merce likes to refer to as kilometre zero.

0:21:330:21:36

She invited me here today to taste her favourite recipe

0:21:370:21:40

for the Christmas holidays.

0:21:400:21:42

Duck with pears,

0:21:420:21:44

which starts with slow-cooking pieces of duck in duck fat.

0:21:440:21:48

-Have you been cooking all your life, Merce?

-Yes.

0:21:480:21:51

I've been cooking, but not duck.

0:21:510:21:54

I had a period when I was vegetarian.

0:21:540:21:57

-Really?

-When I was a hippy.

0:21:570:21:59

-Were you a hippy?

-Yes.

0:21:590:22:01

But then I came back to my roots.

0:22:010:22:05

I really love Catalan food.

0:22:050:22:08

There is one word in English that I really, really love.

0:22:080:22:12

-It's foodie.

-Foodie!

0:22:120:22:15

Don't you have a word in Spanish for foodie?

0:22:150:22:18

-We don't have it.

-I'll tell you why I know you're a foodie.

0:22:180:22:21

While we've been doing this,

0:22:210:22:22

all you're worried about, really, is overcooking your duck.

0:22:220:22:25

-Oh, yes!

-You are, like me,

0:22:250:22:28

"Blow the television, blow that. It's my duck I'm worried about."

0:22:280:22:31

Oh, yes.

0:22:310:22:32

SHE LAUGHS HEARTILY

0:22:320:22:34

-OK.

-OK. We'd better get on with it.

0:22:340:22:37

I know this dish is going to be included

0:22:370:22:40

among my Christmas favourites.

0:22:400:22:41

So having already infused the duck fat with some sage,

0:22:410:22:45

Merce adds a few sprigs of rosemary

0:22:450:22:48

and a generous portion of brandy. It is Christmas after all!

0:22:480:22:52

Now for the pears. They only need to cook for about 10 minutes.

0:22:520:22:56

So you need to have

0:22:560:22:57

the next essential set of ingredients already prepared.

0:22:570:23:01

The Catalans have perfected a marvellous way

0:23:010:23:04

of seasoning many of their dishes.

0:23:040:23:06

Merce is showing me how to make a picada,

0:23:060:23:09

which is a combination of toasted hazelnuts

0:23:090:23:12

and romesco peppers, garlic, olive oil and parsley.

0:23:120:23:15

Bread is also a common ingredient

0:23:150:23:17

but I was interested to find that Merce left it out.

0:23:170:23:20

-Will you help me?

-Yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:23:200:23:22

-It's quite heavy.

-It is.

-Oh, my God.

0:23:220:23:25

OK?

0:23:250:23:26

Don't these colours look Christmassy?

0:23:260:23:28

I found this dish a real inspiration.

0:23:280:23:31

The thought of a marriage between the richness of duck

0:23:310:23:33

and a festive fruit like pears really appeals to me.

0:23:330:23:37

Having seen the satisfying way the picada was used by Merce

0:23:370:23:41

to thicken the sauce, I was inspired to use a similar technique

0:23:410:23:44

back at the villa to prepare an Andalucian dish

0:23:440:23:48

that I've cooked on a number of occasions for friends.

0:23:480:23:50

I'm particularly fond of this Andalucian dish

0:23:560:23:58

because it has so many flavours of North Africa, things like nutmeg,

0:23:580:24:02

coriander, cloves, black pepper and saffron,

0:24:020:24:06

really go not just to North Africa

0:24:060:24:09

but all the way back to Iran, back to Persia.

0:24:090:24:11

But then it's cooked with sherry and saffron

0:24:110:24:14

which is very Spanish as well, so you've got this really interesting

0:24:140:24:18

blending of Moorish and Spanish flavours,

0:24:180:24:21

and it's a real favourite in Andalucia at Christmas.

0:24:210:24:24

In the same way that light seems to take on

0:24:260:24:28

an astounding intensity in Andalucia,

0:24:280:24:31

so the flavours of this dish reflect a powerful combination

0:24:310:24:35

of the most aromatic ingredients.

0:24:350:24:37

No wonder then it's eaten on high days and holidays.

0:24:370:24:41

I'm infusing fried chicken with the essential flavours

0:24:410:24:44

of this dish, freshly crushed spices, followed by rock salt

0:24:440:24:48

and saffron, the luxury ingredient

0:24:480:24:50

that travelled from its original birthplace in the Middle East

0:24:500:24:53

to a new-found home in southern Spain.

0:24:530:24:57

You might have thought I was being a bit, well,

0:24:570:25:01

unrefined by bunging in the onions on top of the chicken,

0:25:010:25:04

but I can't see that it makes that much difference.

0:25:040:25:07

I'm always looking at recipes and thinking,

0:25:070:25:09

"How can I make this simpler?"

0:25:090:25:11

Because I think cooking should be simple. It shouldn't be difficult.

0:25:110:25:14

While the chicken is absorbing the flavours of all those spices,

0:25:150:25:19

I add some dry sherry.

0:25:190:25:21

This is home-made chicken stock. And finally, some bay leaves.

0:25:230:25:28

I just leave it to simmer and cook gently for about 40 minutes.

0:25:280:25:33

And now it's time for the picada.

0:25:330:25:35

I'm definitely using bread in my recipe.

0:25:350:25:38

Just frying small chunks with slices of garlic and some olive oil

0:25:380:25:42

until the bread begins to take on a golden colour.

0:25:420:25:45

Back in the mortar and pestle I begin crushing the bread

0:25:470:25:50

and in stages start adding

0:25:500:25:52

the essential ingredients that go to make a picada.

0:25:520:25:56

I'm using both pine nuts and blanched almonds.

0:25:560:25:59

And for a bit of extravagance, I also add an egg yolk to my paste.

0:26:010:26:05

That's nicely pounded.

0:26:050:26:07

I'm just going to loosen it up a little bit with some chicken stock.

0:26:070:26:11

Now I add the picada slowly to the simmering chicken

0:26:150:26:18

and almost immediately the sauce begins to thicken.

0:26:180:26:21

For added texture, I like to chop up some more pine nuts

0:26:250:26:28

with flat-leaf parsley, and garnish just before serving.

0:26:280:26:32

No need to include anything else as a side dish.

0:26:340:26:37

The chicken, fortified by this sauce, will prove a real winner

0:26:370:26:41

for any special occasion.

0:26:410:26:43

A gift left behind by the Arab culinary legacy

0:26:430:26:46

to an impoverished Spain, full of Eastern promise.

0:26:460:26:50

Thanks, Rick, and Merry Christmas if you're watching!

0:26:550:26:58

Now, we've had a few emails asking for interesting ideas for sauces.

0:26:580:27:01

So for this week's masterclass I thought I'd show you how to

0:27:010:27:03

make one of my favourite sauces, a Chinese black bean sauce.

0:27:030:27:07

Presumably you've had enough of Italian food and Italians.

0:27:070:27:10

Look at them.

0:27:100:27:11

-I never get enough of the food, it's just the pronunciation.

-Exactly!

0:27:110:27:14

It's the 10 minutes it takes before you serve it.

0:27:140:27:17

I'll do the black beans with squid,

0:27:170:27:19

-because I know you like squid as well.

-Love squid.

0:27:190:27:21

We start with these, the black, fermented beans.

0:27:210:27:23

They are quite soft.

0:27:230:27:26

Don't eat them as they are, because what you need to do is soak them.

0:27:260:27:29

-I wasn't intending to.

-Exactly, yeah. Don't eat them as they are.

0:27:290:27:32

Anyway, what we are going to do with these

0:27:320:27:35

is basically chop these roughly.

0:27:350:27:38

Just roughly chop them.

0:27:380:27:40

Then we basically rinse them underwater.

0:27:400:27:44

Rinse them out. Like that. Drain them off.

0:27:450:27:50

Then you end up with these beans.

0:27:500:27:52

These are the ones, almost reconstitute them back again.

0:27:520:27:56

What we are going to do now is prepare our squid

0:27:560:27:58

and throw everything in.

0:27:580:27:59

We are going to marinade our squid slightly

0:27:590:28:01

with a little bit of cornflour.

0:28:010:28:03

We got some sesame oil and some soy sauce,

0:28:030:28:05

and fry it off in the wok with some ginger.

0:28:050:28:08

We're going to use this baby squid,

0:28:080:28:09

which I'm going to cut up into thin slices.

0:28:090:28:11

I thought about this recipe.

0:28:110:28:13

I was going to do rabbit with it, which works really well,

0:28:130:28:15

but you and rabbit...

0:28:150:28:17

-It doesn't sit well really, does it?

-No, it doesn't.

0:28:170:28:20

I read about it in your book. Your autobiography, tell us about that.

0:28:200:28:24

Well, my dad, basically we were going to school one day and...

0:28:240:28:28

We had rabbits, they were pets. My dad claimed afterwards...

0:28:280:28:33

He said, "who's is going in the pot?" I thought he was joking. I said mine.

0:28:330:28:37

When I came home from school to stroke it was strung up.

0:28:370:28:41

And hanging on the back wall.

0:28:410:28:44

He put it in a stew!

0:28:440:28:46

THEY ALL LAUGH

0:28:460:28:48

I love rabbit! I just love it.

0:28:480:28:51

I love rabbit, but at the time I liked stroking this one.

0:28:510:28:55

Your whole career has been fascinating.

0:28:550:28:59

Even before comedy, you wanted... You trained to be a priest as well.

0:28:590:29:03

-I did.

-Aaahh!

0:29:030:29:06

Do you know what, I wanted to be a priest as well,

0:29:060:29:08

then I changed my mind. It's true.

0:29:080:29:11

-Was at about the age of 13?

-Yes.

0:29:110:29:13

THEY LAUGH

0:29:130:29:15

All I'm doing now is frying off the squid.

0:29:150:29:19

We've got some cornflour, soy and sesame oil in here.

0:29:190:29:22

Fry it in a really hot pan, then I'm going to decant it out

0:29:220:29:25

and make the sauce with it as well.

0:29:250:29:26

This is my problem, especially with seafood. And stir-fries, I can't do.

0:29:260:29:31

Speed is also the key to this stuff, this sort of cooking.

0:29:310:29:34

We are going to make a sauce with spring onions, chilli,

0:29:340:29:37

some Xiaoxing wine, sesame, soy and a little bit of chicken stock.

0:29:370:29:42

Basically everything you keep in your larder, don't you?

0:29:420:29:46

Keep them in your cupboards as well, really.

0:29:460:29:48

Training to be a priest and then you decide that's not for you.

0:29:480:29:51

Then you end up at art college.

0:29:510:29:53

-What's this about art college and pottery?

-Doing...

0:29:540:29:57

Well, I sort of drifted for a few years

0:29:570:30:00

and I wasn't... I wasn't the best student at school.

0:30:000:30:03

It was just that thing about I wasn't great

0:30:030:30:05

at being told what to do, or when to learn,

0:30:050:30:08

I think I was always more creative than I was academic.

0:30:080:30:11

I mean, talk about creative, the haircut when you were at college,

0:30:110:30:14

what's all that about? Just check this out!

0:30:140:30:17

-LAUGHTER

-What is that about?!

0:30:170:30:19

I wanted to stand out, and I think I achieved that.

0:30:190:30:22

-LAUGHTER

-You did, actually!

0:30:220:30:24

-And...

-I'm sorry, but you do stand out, you know, really.

0:30:240:30:27

Well, I was a good-looking guy and was sick of women coming on to me...

0:30:270:30:30

-Yeah, yeah!

-So I thought I need a hairstyle...

-I know the feeling.

0:30:300:30:33

Talk about "know the feeling", we've all got one of these images

0:30:330:30:36

in our closet! Look at this one,

0:30:360:30:38

this is the kid's image, which I thought was the best one.

0:30:380:30:41

-ALL: Aw!

-Check that out!

0:30:410:30:43

We've all got those, haven't we? Where did you get that shirt from?

0:30:430:30:47

-The shirt? Oh, the little, er...? JAMES LAUGHS:

-Yes!

0:30:470:30:49

Well, I didn't... I wasn't shopping for my own stuff at that age, was I?

0:30:490:30:53

LAUGHTER

0:30:530:30:54

But I mean, it was the Edinburgh Festival, really.

0:30:540:30:57

Everybody talks about the Edinburgh Festival that really

0:30:570:30:59

-launched your career to the massive, didn't it?

-It did, yeah.

0:30:590:31:02

I couldn't get gigs in London. I was working largely out of,

0:31:020:31:06

sort of, the North West, in Manchester,

0:31:060:31:09

in the Frog and Bucket, in my hometown.

0:31:090:31:12

But it is a fascinating story,

0:31:120:31:13

because you then morph into acting as well, serious acting as well.

0:31:130:31:17

There's not many comedians that go from that into serious acting

0:31:170:31:19

and, you know, we've seen you in all manner of different stuff now,

0:31:190:31:22

-Benidorm as well.

-Yeah.

-But you do enjoy the serious roles as well?

0:31:220:31:26

I love acting. It's a great part. And it's led onto directing, lately,

0:31:260:31:32

but it was...that was other people coming to see me,

0:31:320:31:34

that was never an ambition of mine to do it,

0:31:340:31:36

it was just I think people came to live shows and went,

0:31:360:31:39

"I'd like to see how he takes on this role?"

0:31:390:31:41

-Um, especially, you know, the BBC...

-Yeah?

0:31:410:31:45

There were some big, big sort of serious roles

0:31:450:31:47

that came along and you're going, "God...!" You're in a room

0:31:470:31:49

-full of serious actors, you know, who've trained...

-Yeah.

0:31:490:31:52

-..and you're the one in the corner just nibbling on wiring!

-Yeah!

0:31:520:31:55

Well, it certainly is a fascinating story, but dive into that.

0:31:550:31:58

-Oh, this looks...

-Quick and simple squid. Dive in.

0:31:580:32:00

Just literally flash fry, all the ingredients in at the last minute.

0:32:000:32:03

Mmm!

0:32:070:32:08

Yeah, that's a good face. LAUGHTER

0:32:100:32:13

Right, don't forget, if there's...

0:32:130:32:14

My mum just taught me never to speak with my mouth full!

0:32:140:32:17

To ask me to demonstrate a skill, dish or technique, drop us a line.

0:32:170:32:19

We'll try to cover it over the coming shows.

0:32:190:32:22

All the contact details are, of course, on our website...

0:32:220:32:26

We'll be cooking for Johnny at the end of the show.

0:32:260:32:28

He could face Food Heaven, that's soft shell crab,

0:32:280:32:31

the crab is covered in a light batter with vodka and tonic

0:32:310:32:34

and it's deep-fried and served with a saffron and garlic aioli

0:32:340:32:37

and a pile of chips on the side.

0:32:370:32:38

Or Johnny could be facing Food Hell, of course, Christmas pudding!

0:32:380:32:41

The pudding is cooked and mixed with a home-made vanilla ice cream

0:32:410:32:44

and it's served on top of a piece of sauteed pineapple

0:32:440:32:47

and finished off with a sauce made from cinnamon,

0:32:470:32:50

nutmeg and star anise in a caramel sauce.

0:32:500:32:52

Time for more fantastic festive food,

0:32:520:32:54

this time from Lorraine Pascale. Today, she's showing us how to make

0:32:540:32:58

an edible Christmas tree decoration. Take a look at this.

0:32:580:33:01

MUSIC: "Fairytale Of New York" by The Pogues

0:33:060:33:09

German Christmas markets, like this one at London's Southbank Centre,

0:33:100:33:15

date all the way back to the 14th and 15th centuries,

0:33:150:33:18

and they're popping up all over the UK this year.

0:33:180:33:20

I find it's a great place for inspiration

0:33:200:33:22

for my last-minute edible hamper gifts.

0:33:220:33:25

When you're out and about,

0:33:250:33:27

you can buy all sorts of things for your hampers,

0:33:270:33:29

but I think it's cool to make your own.

0:33:290:33:31

My hampers are going to be stuffed full of edible goodies

0:33:310:33:34

that I've cooked or created.

0:33:340:33:36

I think they're the perfect gift

0:33:360:33:38

if you've left everything to the last minute.

0:33:380:33:41

You can make several at a time, and personalise them

0:33:410:33:43

by adding some extra bits and pieces

0:33:430:33:45

like a favourite magazine, a beauty product, or how about

0:33:450:33:49

some seeds for the keen gardener in your family?

0:33:490:33:52

This year, my hampers will contain some of my maple-glazed mince pie stars,

0:33:530:33:58

delicious chocolate and vanilla Irish cream,

0:33:580:34:01

some creamy dark and white chocolate bark,

0:34:010:34:04

which is great for chocoholics,

0:34:040:34:06

a super quick chocolate cake mix, a perfect last-minute gift,

0:34:060:34:11

some mulled wine sachets bursting with flavour,

0:34:110:34:14

and some super tasty home-made pate with garlic and brandy.

0:34:140:34:18

And I love these ginger and cinnamon stained-glass cookies.

0:34:180:34:21

They don't only look great in a hamper, they also make

0:34:210:34:25

really cool Christmas tree decorations.

0:34:250:34:27

And here's how I made them.

0:34:270:34:29

I put 100 grams of butter,

0:34:320:34:34

100 grams of soft light brown sugar,

0:34:340:34:37

two tablespoons of golden syrup,

0:34:370:34:40

one teaspoon of treacle,

0:34:400:34:43

a tablespoon each of ginger and cinnamon,

0:34:430:34:45

a large pinch of ground cloves

0:34:450:34:47

into a medium pan over a gentle heat.

0:34:470:34:49

Allow everything to dissolve for three to four minutes, stirring,

0:34:520:34:55

then remove the pan from the heat

0:34:550:34:57

and stir in half a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda

0:34:570:35:00

and 250 grams of flour...

0:35:000:35:03

..until you have a smooth but fairly stiff dough.

0:35:040:35:07

OK, so I've left the dough for about five minutes.

0:35:100:35:14

It's about room temperature.

0:35:140:35:15

If you leave it too long, it goes very dry and crumbly.

0:35:150:35:20

Then just roll it, turning it round all the time,

0:35:200:35:24

like that.

0:35:240:35:25

Now, I like my cookies quite thick,

0:35:250:35:28

so I'm going to roll it to about a centimetre.

0:35:280:35:31

Take a cutter,

0:35:310:35:33

and I've got this snowflake cutter, but any shape will do,

0:35:330:35:36

and then press down.

0:35:360:35:39

OK, now I'm just going to get this

0:35:390:35:43

on to the baking tin.

0:35:430:35:45

Just slide it across

0:35:450:35:47

like that.

0:35:470:35:48

Give it a little wiggle. There.

0:35:480:35:51

I've got this cutter, a slightly smaller cutter.

0:35:510:35:54

Can be any shape, really.

0:35:540:35:56

And then into the centre...

0:35:560:35:58

..and out.

0:36:000:36:02

OK. I'll carry on with the rest.

0:36:020:36:04

OK, so I've got these boiled sweets -

0:36:140:36:17

I like to get really, really colourful ones -

0:36:170:36:20

and this big pestle and mortar.

0:36:200:36:22

Put the sweets

0:36:220:36:24

into the pestle and mortar

0:36:240:36:27

and then just crush them

0:36:270:36:30

into smallish chunks.

0:36:300:36:33

And then you want to sprinkle them

0:36:340:36:37

into the centre of the cookie.

0:36:370:36:40

Then what's going to happen is, when it cooks,

0:36:410:36:43

it just melts into this beautiful

0:36:430:36:46

stained-glass effect.

0:36:460:36:48

OK, so the cookies are nice and cool now.

0:37:040:37:08

And what I like to do is hang them on the Christmas tree,

0:37:080:37:11

and just before they go into the oven,

0:37:110:37:14

you can get a skewer and put a little hole in them,

0:37:140:37:17

to thread the ribbon through.

0:37:170:37:19

But I think it's more fun using

0:37:190:37:22

a drill.

0:37:220:37:24

So, I have this drill bit that I use especially for my cookies,

0:37:240:37:28

and it's obviously been sterilised.

0:37:280:37:30

Then put the cookie on a wire rack,

0:37:300:37:33

and I'm going to put it about here.

0:37:330:37:35

Just very slowly at first.

0:37:370:37:39

And then you get this perfect hole.

0:37:430:37:47

OK, I like to decorate my cookies with icing.

0:38:070:38:12

You can just use regular icing, but I like to use royal icing.

0:38:150:38:20

You can get it from the supermarket.

0:38:200:38:22

You just want it about that thickness, so it's quite gloopy.

0:38:220:38:26

Of course, you can use a fabric piping bag,

0:38:260:38:29

but I just like making my own.

0:38:290:38:32

Take some baking parchment

0:38:320:38:35

and make a big triangle,

0:38:350:38:37

then you fold it into a cone.

0:38:370:38:41

with a pointy edge,

0:38:410:38:43

and then just tuck this bit in.

0:38:430:38:45

A paperback piping bag!

0:38:460:38:48

Just pour that in to about half full.

0:38:510:38:54

Perfect! OK.

0:38:580:38:59

Snip the end with the scissors.

0:39:010:39:03

So just put little blobs

0:39:070:39:08

on the cookie like that,

0:39:100:39:12

Christmassy pearls.

0:39:130:39:15

So that's one done

0:39:260:39:27

and now to get on with the rest.

0:39:270:39:30

You can see more from Lorraine on next week's show.

0:39:450:39:47

Still to come this morning on Saturday Kitchen,

0:39:470:39:50

Ken Hom and Ching-He Huang take us on a gastronomic tour of China.

0:39:500:39:53

They're in Beijing visiting the city's most famous chef

0:39:530:39:56

before cooking a couple of duck-inspired dishes from his menu.

0:39:560:40:00

Only Ching could look that glamorous in a hairnet, of course.

0:40:000:40:03

Raymond Blanc shows off his dazzling pastry skills.

0:40:030:40:06

He's preparing a spectacular croquembouche

0:40:060:40:08

filled with orange liqueur cream

0:40:080:40:10

and covered with a caramel and nut brittle.

0:40:100:40:13

And will Johnny face his Food Heaven,

0:40:130:40:15

that deep-fried soft shell crab with garlic aioli?

0:40:150:40:17

Or Food Hell, Christmas pudding ice cream

0:40:170:40:19

with sauteed pineapple and festive caramel sauce?

0:40:190:40:22

Of course, it's not up to our chefs today,

0:40:220:40:24

instead we're letting fate decide

0:40:240:40:26

and I'll explain exactly how at the end of the show.

0:40:260:40:29

Right, cooking next is a chef making his first visit

0:40:290:40:32

to the Saturday Kitchen hobs. It's Giancarlo Caldesi.

0:40:320:40:35

-What are we cooking today?

-Something from my new book,

0:40:350:40:38

which is, basically, we're doing some smoked salmon.

0:40:380:40:41

We're doing some hot smoked salmon with pasta using chilli vodka.

0:40:410:40:45

We're also doing some butter, which is very easy.

0:40:450:40:48

-And, er...

-This is smoked butter that we're going to do?

0:40:480:40:51

We do it first fresh, and then we smoke it.

0:40:510:40:54

And also, we can smoke mozzarella, which is absolutely delicious

0:40:540:40:57

and there are some nice dishes which you can have, you know,

0:40:570:41:01

-before your Christmas meal.

-Sounds good to me.

0:41:010:41:03

-I'm going to wash this salmon.

-The smoked salmon is amazing.

0:41:030:41:06

We will do hot and cold salmon. You will prepare the hot one here.

0:41:060:41:09

Yes, we are going to prepare the hot one.

0:41:090:41:12

As you can see, cut this into about 4cm slices. There we go.

0:41:120:41:16

And then, you add some sort of salt,

0:41:160:41:18

but not too much, you mustn't salt it too much.

0:41:180:41:21

It takes about 35-40 minutes to be ready.

0:41:210:41:23

-Yeah.

-There we go. There you are.

0:41:230:41:27

This is very simple, actually, James. You really, really...

0:41:270:41:30

-You have to be careful this doesn't stay in salt for too long.

-Yeah.

0:41:300:41:34

And also, it takes about seven or eight minutes to cook

0:41:340:41:37

and, on the actual chippings, you only need about one tablespoon.

0:41:370:41:41

-There we are.

-Yeah.

-You put it in like this.

0:41:410:41:43

And then, put that on top, and this one is for our smoked salmon.

0:41:430:41:47

-Now, the smoked salmon...

-So this one, first of all,

0:41:470:41:50

-this is hot smoked salmon?

-Yes, which we use for the pasta.

0:41:500:41:52

-So I'll let you put that on there.

-There we go.

0:41:520:41:54

-So you would only cure this for...?

-40 minutes.

-40 minutes only?

0:41:540:41:58

This one is for our smoked salmon, which has to be

0:41:580:42:02

salted for about nine, ten hours

0:42:020:42:04

and then smoked for at least eight hours.

0:42:040:42:06

-So this one's been rinsed. I've rinsed this.

-Yeah.

0:42:060:42:08

And then, what we're going to do is

0:42:080:42:10

-put it into this pan with the chippings, like that.

-Yeah.

0:42:100:42:14

And now, what I'm going to do is prepare the actual sauce

0:42:140:42:18

-for the hot smoked salmon.

-Hot salmon, this one.

0:42:180:42:20

I mean, traditionally, with normal smoked salmon,

0:42:200:42:23

sometimes you'd put sugar with it.

0:42:230:42:25

You're just going to do it with all salt, yours?

0:42:250:42:27

-Well, if you put sugar, it becomes more gravlax.

-Yeah.

0:42:270:42:29

-So you want that kind of lovely smoked salmon flavour...

-Yeah.

0:42:290:42:32

..which is important. And we're going to start the actual butter.

0:42:320:42:36

And this is very, very simple. This is 600ml of double cream,

0:42:360:42:40

which will take about one minute, one minute and ten seconds to be ready.

0:42:400:42:44

-We're going to add some salt as well.

-Right.

-So it's ready for us.

0:42:440:42:48

-One pinch of salt.

-The sink there, if you want to wash your hands.

-Yes.

0:42:480:42:53

We're going... And also, if this will work...

0:42:530:42:55

-All right?

-MIXER STARTS

0:42:550:42:58

-And, er, when this is ready, you have to rinse it.

-Yeah.

0:42:580:43:02

And once you rinse it, and then it's ready,

0:43:040:43:06

so look up, one minute, we'll be ready.

0:43:060:43:09

One minute. I'll keep my eye on this one.

0:43:090:43:11

We've got the hot smoke in there, the sauce coming down nicely.

0:43:110:43:14

-This is not far off?

-No, just another minute.

0:43:140:43:17

-Then, can you rinse it please?

-Yeah, I can do that.

0:43:170:43:20

And let's see how we go in here with our salmon, doing very well,

0:43:200:43:22

the pasta is ready, the sauce is ready.

0:43:220:43:24

So this salmon you just basically leave on,

0:43:240:43:27

but we've got a smoker here in the back,

0:43:270:43:29

-which is one of these things, you can buy these online now?

-Yes.

0:43:290:43:33

All these things you can find online, actually.

0:43:330:43:36

And that smoker's excellent, because it's very unobtrusive,

0:43:360:43:39

its just a bit of cardboard.

0:43:390:43:40

-Oh, wonderful, that's fantastic!

-I'll do it in this one.

-Yeah.

0:43:400:43:43

So you can use it, it's very easy, as you can see.

0:43:430:43:46

And here, it's very important what you're doing, thank you so much,

0:43:460:43:50

because you're taking the whey out and then you wash it,

0:43:500:43:53

wash under the cold water, and that's fantastic.

0:43:530:43:56

OK, so the actual pasta is ready.

0:43:560:43:58

The smoked salmon here is going very well.

0:43:580:44:01

-But I mean, you've written, you know, several books now.

-Yes.

0:44:010:44:04

You've got a new one out now,

0:44:040:44:05

yourself and your partner as well, you know, but the cook school is

0:44:050:44:08

quite an important part to you as well, isn't it?

0:44:080:44:11

Well, actually, I think it's the most important thing, really,

0:44:110:44:14

that's happened in my life to be able to share the knowledge

0:44:140:44:17

that I acquired after so many years and share it with other people.

0:44:170:44:20

I think that's fantastic. That really is something else, really,

0:44:200:44:23

something that people should not forget. If you learn the skill,

0:44:230:44:27

and then you're able to transfer that skill to other people...

0:44:270:44:31

-Yeah.

-I think that's really, that's what I like most.

0:44:310:44:34

-Really fantastic.

-So that's the butter, really?

0:44:340:44:37

You just blend it, wash it off in the sink,

0:44:370:44:39

and then you basically just rinse it off.

0:44:390:44:40

-Now, at this point, you can add salt to this.

-I added salt before.

-OK.

0:44:400:44:45

Delicious.

0:44:450:44:46

-So you've got home-made butter.

-Absolutely.

0:44:460:44:48

And the pasta you've just... Basically, this is pre...?

0:44:480:44:51

-Yes, pre-cooked.

-Pre-cooked pasta.

-For about seven minutes.

-Yeah.

0:44:510:44:55

Now, we put it on our... This is very, very simple.

0:44:550:44:58

-Very simple dish. As you can see, OK?

-Yeah.

0:44:580:45:02

-Now, this is fine.

-Now the butter, you can just wrap that up,

0:45:020:45:05

put it in the fridge, use it when you want to use it?

0:45:050:45:07

Yes, as a normal butter, which is really excellent, I should say.

0:45:070:45:10

Honestly, the reason, if you do that...

0:45:100:45:13

Can you see this? Look at this.

0:45:130:45:15

-Look.

-Yeah, that is perfect.

0:45:150:45:17

Now, it doesn't have to be thoroughly cooked...

0:45:170:45:19

-No, because you put it into the pasta.

-Innit, really?

0:45:190:45:22

-There you go.

-Thank you.

0:45:220:45:24

And... There we go.

0:45:240:45:26

Now, we put it into the pasta, toss it a little bit.

0:45:260:45:29

And this is absolutely superb.

0:45:290:45:33

And also, when you have this one, if you have a little chilli vodka,

0:45:330:45:37

as I said, we're going to put a little bit of chilli vodka on this.

0:45:370:45:40

-Chilli vodka?!

-Absolutely.

-Where is this from? Travels?

-Yes, absolutely.

0:45:400:45:44

The chilli vodka, the actual fat...of the...

0:45:440:45:50

-The cream?

-Of the cream and the salmon, with a chilli vodka,

0:45:500:45:53

it gets really, I don't know, it's just superb.

0:45:530:45:56

As a matter of fact, I don't drink that much, but I tried this dish...

0:45:560:46:00

I don't drink that much, I really don't.

0:46:000:46:02

-It's all right, these two make up for it.

-Yeah.

0:46:020:46:04

But this entire sauce is made out of cream, vodka, salt-and-pepper,

0:46:040:46:08

-a little bit of garlic on in there.

-Yes.

-That's it.

-And a little bit...

0:46:080:46:11

A little bit of parsley, if you like, to make it green.

0:46:110:46:14

-I'll get you a spoon.

-And we're good.

0:46:140:46:16

-Now, we need to get the smoked salmon out.

-Yeah.

0:46:160:46:19

Now, if you open up this box, you'll see how much smoke that's in it.

0:46:190:46:23

So you start off with the chippings. Do you use oak chippings in this?

0:46:230:46:26

-Yes, we do an oak smoked salmon.

-Yeah.

0:46:260:46:29

This is absolutely beautiful. Look. Can you see how wonderful this is?

0:46:290:46:33

Now the difference, whereas the hot smoke takes minutes, as that's

0:46:330:46:36

taken six, seven minutes, this needs to be in for quite a few hours.

0:46:360:46:39

That's quite a few hours, about seven hours.

0:46:390:46:42

That takes about seven, eight hours.

0:46:420:46:43

But if I give you a little bit of salmon to try,

0:46:430:46:45

you will find that this is absolutely superb.

0:46:450:46:49

I'll show you. Look, this is a...a gentle smoke

0:46:500:46:53

-and it's a kind of different stuff that you use.

-Yeah.

-Please try.

0:46:530:46:57

It truly is remarkable.

0:46:570:46:59

-Very good to me.

-And how long does that take to smoke?

0:47:010:47:04

-This one takes about eight hours to smoke.

-All right. I'm trying

0:47:040:47:07

to cut down on chip pan fires, but, you know,

0:47:070:47:09

if you come in from the pub, that's going to take a while.

0:47:090:47:12

LAUGHTER

0:47:120:47:14

This takes eight hours to smoke

0:47:140:47:16

and also the salting of this is important.

0:47:160:47:19

You have to be careful on the salting,

0:47:190:47:22

-because if you make it too salty... Can you share it?

-Like sashimi?

0:47:220:47:25

Yeah. Well, not really, but that's OK.

0:47:250:47:28

-I mean...

-OK, so the pasta's ready. I promise you...

0:47:280:47:31

You need to try this with a little bit of vodka along the side.

0:47:310:47:36

-It's absolutely superb.

-Now you're going to finish this one off.

0:47:360:47:39

So tell us about this one?

0:47:390:47:41

-So, now we've got your salmon...

-Yeah.

0:47:410:47:45

..which goes on your lovely toast. There we go.

0:47:470:47:49

-And then...

-Do you want me to get the mozzarella and the butter out?

0:47:490:47:52

Yeah, please.

0:47:520:47:54

-So three salmon...

-Yeah.

0:47:540:47:57

And then, we're going to go...

0:47:570:48:00

-I'll let you do that one.

-..with the mozzarella.

0:48:000:48:04

The mozzarella, actually, you can have it as it is.

0:48:040:48:06

-And then...

-And the butter, you can put it on the toast.

-OK.

0:48:060:48:09

So that gives you the three different things.

0:48:090:48:11

The mozzarella has been smoked less time, OK, much less time,

0:48:110:48:17

-probably four hours...

-Yeah.

-..because you need to, um...

0:48:170:48:20

Unfortunately, you need to differentiate

0:48:200:48:22

the timings of whatever you smoke, otherwise it's a bit too much.

0:48:220:48:26

-So, there we go.

-So tell us what these two dishes are?

0:48:260:48:29

We have got penne hot smoked salmon.

0:48:290:48:32

Smoked salmon, smoked mozzarella

0:48:320:48:34

and the beautiful toast with smoked butter.

0:48:340:48:37

Giancarlo, it's been seven years, but worth the wait.

0:48:370:48:39

Oh, you're very kind!

0:48:390:48:41

Right, which one do you want to take over? This one or this one?

0:48:450:48:48

This one? Right, over we go.

0:48:480:48:50

-And you get to dive into this.

-I need a bit of vodka, actually.

0:48:500:48:54

-Yeah, we've got to get the vodka as well.

-Oh, yeah!

-Yeah!

0:48:540:48:57

-This is a serious shot of vodka, though, innit, really?

-Yeah.

0:48:570:49:00

-So this is the chilli vodka...

-Yeah.

-..to go with it.

0:49:000:49:04

-Oh, wonderful.

-So the idea is

0:49:040:49:05

-you basically just try this with all these, then?

-Yes.

0:49:050:49:08

-No, you try the chilli vodka with the pasta.

-With the pasta?

0:49:080:49:11

I was in Russia a couple of weeks ago

0:49:110:49:15

and they actually gave me a lovely beetroot syrup with cabbage

0:49:150:49:20

and they gave me some vodka to drink on it.

0:49:200:49:23

-Mmm. Good.

-Oh, good!

-Right, we need some wine to go with this.

0:49:230:49:27

Let's get back to the slopes in Hemel Hempstead to see

0:49:270:49:29

what Susie and Peter have chosen to go with Giancarlo's super salmon.

0:49:290:49:33

MUSIC: "Winter Wonderland"

0:49:330:49:36

SUSIE: 'Giancarlo's hot and cold smoked salmon is

0:49:500:49:52

'such a fabulously hedonistic starter for a Christmas meal'

0:49:520:49:55

but I can't resist the idea of cracking open

0:49:550:49:59

a bottle of fine sparkling wine to drink with it.

0:49:590:50:01

And as it's Christmas, I'm feeling rather patriotic.

0:50:010:50:04

So my choice for Giancarlo's recipe would be this English sparkling Brut

0:50:040:50:09

from Surrey, which partners both elements of the dish beautifully.

0:50:090:50:13

But I rarely get my own way.

0:50:130:50:16

I'm not sure that's entirely true,

0:50:160:50:18

but with the Christmas budget in mind, and also moving away

0:50:180:50:21

from some fabulous vodka-based cocktails, which are also an option,

0:50:210:50:24

there is a wine which matches just as seamlessly

0:50:240:50:27

and is slightly easier on the wallet. It is the delicious

0:50:270:50:30

Taste the Difference River Block Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough.

0:50:300:50:34

You might think that a rich oaky white

0:50:370:50:40

would work best with smoked salmon, but actually, it's the opposite.

0:50:400:50:43

You need something zesty and crisp to cut through

0:50:430:50:46

what is quite a dense,

0:50:460:50:48

smoky and oily fish.

0:50:480:50:50

This one's really tangy and citric

0:50:500:50:52

and that works really well

0:50:520:50:53

with the creamy pasta

0:50:530:50:54

and that splash of chilli.

0:50:540:50:56

There's also a sort of green, herbal character here,

0:50:560:50:59

which ties in brilliantly with the salmon too.

0:50:590:51:02

And finally, there's enough concentration and texture here

0:51:020:51:05

to cope with the richness of that beautiful butter and cream.

0:51:050:51:09

So, Giancarlo, it might seem like

0:51:090:51:11

we're not in complete agreement on this one...

0:51:110:51:13

But frankly, this wine does work brilliantly with every element

0:51:130:51:17

of your supremely wine-friendly salmon extravaganza.

0:51:170:51:21

Salute!

0:51:210:51:22

New Zealand, a brave choice given the company?

0:51:240:51:27

I thought both of them were going to choose Italian, to be honest.

0:51:270:51:31

Now, I'll tell you something, actually,

0:51:310:51:33

new wine, New Zealand, you know, they are fantastic.

0:51:330:51:35

And I think new wines are much better than our Italian wine,

0:51:350:51:38

because they've got different...

0:51:380:51:39

They've got a kind of different flavour.

0:51:390:51:40

LAUGHTER

0:51:400:51:42

What have you just said?!

0:51:420:51:43

For this dish. I mean to say...

0:51:430:51:45

Because this dish needs a completely different uplifting.

0:51:450:51:49

-I love it!

-Usually, I'm not very fond of cream in pasta dishes,

0:51:490:51:52

-but this one is fine.

-Right, it's time for a trip to China to uncover

0:51:520:51:56

more great regional recipes with Ken Hom and Ching-He Huang.

0:51:560:51:59

Today, they're at the capital city of Beijing

0:51:590:52:01

and they're off to visit one of the country's most famous chefs.

0:52:010:52:05

A man called...

0:52:050:52:07

"Run it!" Oh! Da Dong?!

0:52:070:52:09

-No, that one says, "Run VT," you muppet!

-Oh, right.

0:52:090:52:11

-LAUGHTER

-Run VT!

0:52:110:52:13

-LAUGHTER CONTINUES

-No, it's called...

0:52:130:52:16

It's our final night in Beijing.

0:52:310:52:33

We're back in the heart of the modern city

0:52:330:52:35

and its most exclusive street where the new rich come to shop and eat.

0:52:350:52:39

We're cooking with a chef who is leading the capital's food revolution.

0:52:430:52:47

Chef Da Dong brings tradition

0:52:480:52:50

and innovation together in culinary theatre

0:52:500:52:54

and his speciality is, of course, the nation's favourite - duck!

0:52:540:52:58

This proud Beijinger became a chef on his father's advice

0:53:000:53:03

that he would never go hungry.

0:53:030:53:05

He's dedicating himself to reviving the reputation of Chinese cuisine

0:53:050:53:10

after it was blighted by years of oppression and poverty.

0:53:100:53:14

This is the big difference.

0:53:210:53:23

Chefs before in China only knew about their region.

0:53:230:53:27

Actually, they never had the opportunity,

0:53:280:53:31

or the time or the money, to travel anywhere else.

0:53:310:53:34

This is one of his signature dishes,

0:53:370:53:39

sweet and sour duck balls in the crispy yam basket.

0:53:390:53:42

This is not like sweet and sour you've ever seen anywhere.

0:53:450:53:48

It's all very poetic.

0:53:480:53:50

Inspired by this beautiful creation, we're now cooking for him,

0:53:500:53:54

making our Da Dong style dishes, using his delicious Peking duck.

0:53:540:53:59

We will show them.

0:53:590:54:01

A Cantonese and a Taiwanese can take on a Beijinger.

0:54:010:54:04

I'm doing a twice cooked crispy duck and apple salad.

0:54:040:54:08

I'm inspired by the flavour of the fruitwood,

0:54:080:54:11

you know, they use the apple trees, the pear trees.

0:54:110:54:14

This is like the way that they slice and carve their ducks

0:54:140:54:17

so I thought maybe we'll do some apples in little pieces.

0:54:170:54:21

Oh, beautiful.

0:54:210:54:22

This is kind of like carving a duck.

0:54:220:54:24

Now for the duck.

0:54:240:54:26

The leg meat is more juicier, more succulent

0:54:260:54:30

and because I'm going to fry it again,

0:54:300:54:33

I need that juicy, meaty part

0:54:330:54:36

and then I'm just going to chop it into bite-size pieces.

0:54:360:54:40

Rough is OK, even with the skin.

0:54:400:54:44

I'm just going to put a little bit of five spice, just a little bit.

0:54:440:54:49

It really does help to bring out the flavour of the meat.

0:54:490:54:52

And then, corn starch and we're ready to deep fry.

0:54:520:54:56

The duck only needs a minute in the wok.

0:55:000:55:02

As it's already cooked, I'm just sealing in the flavour.

0:55:020:55:06

While it's hot, the outer edges where the cornflour, like this...

0:55:060:55:12

Lovely golden and crisp.

0:55:120:55:13

We'll just drain the excess fat.

0:55:160:55:19

Next is the salad dressing.

0:55:190:55:21

I'm using XO sauce, a spicy seafood sauce made from dried shrimp,

0:55:210:55:25

dried scallop and chillies.

0:55:250:55:27

Then I'm going to use some of this Tian ming jiang.

0:55:270:55:31

The sort of sweet bean paste.

0:55:310:55:33

A little bit of sugar,

0:55:330:55:36

a little bit of black rice vinegar.

0:55:360:55:38

-It's going to be sweet and sour.

-Right.

0:55:380:55:42

-How's the sauce?

-It's OK. It's a little bit too vinegary.

0:55:440:55:49

I think I need more of the sweet bean paste and a little bit more sugar.

0:55:490:55:52

If it's too vinegary, you just add a little bit more sugar.

0:55:520:55:54

So, a little spicy, sweet...

0:55:580:56:00

Lovely.

0:56:000:56:02

That's like ducks playing in spring time.

0:56:060:56:09

My dish is minced up with lettuce cups.

0:56:120:56:14

I'm going to stir-fry the Peking duck with radish and cucumber,

0:56:160:56:19

along with some fresh water chestnuts.

0:56:190:56:22

I want to get those really, really hot.

0:56:220:56:25

OK, some ginger, garlic,

0:56:250:56:28

spring onion...

0:56:280:56:30

I'm ready to wok and roll here.

0:56:300:56:32

-Smells good, Ken.

-Yeah.

0:56:340:56:37

I'm going to add my duck.

0:56:370:56:38

All these condiments he uses for his Peking duck,

0:56:400:56:43

so this is a bit of a homage to him, as well.

0:56:430:56:46

That looks good, I love the colours, the pink and green.

0:56:460:56:50

A little bit of rice wine.

0:56:500:56:53

Water chestnuts, and what I like is a little bit of peanuts for crunch.

0:56:540:56:58

I'm also using the sweet bean sauce

0:57:000:57:04

and adding a touch of my favourite, oyster sauce.

0:57:040:57:07

That'll be ready.

0:57:070:57:09

Lovely.

0:57:090:57:11

I love watching Ken with the wok, the way he works it with the flame,

0:57:110:57:14

he's infusing the ingredients with a deep, smoky flavour.

0:57:140:57:17

Oh, good work, Ken.

0:57:190:57:20

I'll finish it off.

0:57:230:57:26

It'll have a bit of crunchiness.

0:57:260:57:29

There's a lot of flavour, you only need a little bit.

0:57:290:57:32

Finally, I'm using the fattest part of the duck,

0:57:320:57:35

the skin, to add extra crouton, light crunch to my dish.

0:57:350:57:38

-Like the crackling.

-The crackling of a duck.

0:57:380:57:42

That's going to add that crunch.

0:57:420:57:43

And I couldn't resist stealing a bit of his edible flowers.

0:57:430:57:47

Beautiful!

0:57:490:57:50

Do you think we're going to be able to impress Da Dong?

0:57:500:57:52

Ah, it takes a lot to impress him!

0:57:520:57:55

I've cooked for 52 years, but right now I feel like I'm back in school.

0:57:580:58:02

Oh, thank you.

0:58:140:58:15

And now for mine.

0:58:330:58:35

To end our time in Beijing, Da Dong has made us a feast of duck delicacies.

0:58:450:58:50

It's a homage to the grand Imperial Court banquets of China's past.

0:58:500:58:56

Salted duck livers...

0:58:560:58:57

Oh!

0:58:570:58:59

-Braised duck tongues.

-This is beautiful.

0:58:590:59:00

And stir-fried duck hearts.

0:59:000:59:03

Oh, my goodness, that is rich.

0:59:030:59:05

It feels good in your mouth.

0:59:050:59:07

I'm so surprised and so touched

0:59:080:59:11

that I see this in my lifetime.

0:59:110:59:14

When I used to come to China, I thought,

0:59:160:59:19

"Oh, my God we're so behind, is it ever going to catch up?"

0:59:190:59:24

And now, I see people like Da Dong

0:59:240:59:29

and I'm sure I'm going to see many places in China,

0:59:290:59:34

how it's changing.

0:59:340:59:36

And it makes me proud.

0:59:360:59:38

It's a full circle, coming to terms with who I am

0:59:380:59:44

and, erm...

0:59:440:59:46

I was right to be proud

0:59:460:59:48

to be Chinese!

0:59:480:59:50

Cheers!

0:59:500:59:51

Great stuff. Right, it's time to complete our feast

0:59:560:59:59

of Italian festive food with a recipe from this man.

0:59:591:00:01

Gennaro Contaldo. What are you going to make for us, then, chef?

1:00:011:00:05

I'm going to make a fantastic Christmas porchetta,

1:00:051:00:08

slow-cooked belly and loin of pork.

1:00:081:00:11

Filled with all these fantastic herbs - sage, thyme, rosemary,

1:00:111:00:15

a little splash of lemon and sultanas, pine nuts,

1:00:151:00:19

splash of wine, a little bit of Vin Santo, chicken liver, wah!

1:00:191:00:24

Lovely pork! So nice! Cooked for about four hours.

1:00:241:00:28

I love this show, it's like WWF cooking, isn't it?!

1:00:281:00:31

LAUGHTER

1:00:311:00:33

Come this Friday night, I'm gonna be...

1:00:331:00:36

He's very jealous, look!

1:00:361:00:38

-That's the chilli vodka kicking in.

-Chilli vodka kicking in.

1:00:381:00:41

-Come on, let's do it.

-Right, what are you doing, then?

1:00:411:00:43

First, you have to make sure, if you can butterfly it,

1:00:431:00:47

belly of pork, ask the butcher to do it.

1:00:471:00:49

What do you need to ask for?

1:00:491:00:51

Ask him to butterfly a belly of pork for you.

1:00:511:00:54

So, what butterfly is, cover the loin in three parts, you can see.

1:00:541:00:58

This is the belly and the full loin?

1:00:591:01:01

This is the full loin, yes.

1:01:011:01:03

Then you take a nice bit of Vin Santo.

1:01:031:01:06

Just a little touch of Vin Santo.

1:01:061:01:08

And with your hands, just massage it, the salt and pepper, inside it,

1:01:081:01:13

it goes everywhere.

1:01:131:01:15

Ah, nicely. Will you do this one for me, please?

1:01:151:01:19

You're very good, thank you. Can I do the other one?

1:01:191:01:22

-Can you kiss the elbow?

-No, no!

-Ha!

1:01:221:01:25

So, what you have to do, let it rest for about a half hour,

1:01:251:01:29

-after a half-hour rested...

-It does look actually weird like that.

1:01:291:01:32

It looks like the reindeer's actually got legs

1:01:321:01:34

because of the amount of hair you've got on your hands. Look at it!

1:01:341:01:37

LAUGHTER

1:01:371:01:39

Go on! Right, what do you do?

1:01:391:01:40

-Have you chopped up my onions?

-Yes, there, look!

-OK.

1:01:401:01:43

Olive oil. Make sure you use very, very good olive oil.

1:01:431:01:48

No butter, the way you say, "botter".

1:01:481:01:51

-OK, you learn to speak English!

-I learn to speak English?!

1:01:511:01:55

You have "bot-tor"!

1:01:551:01:56

-How long have you lived in this country?

-Er, never mind!

1:01:561:01:58

-How long have you lived here? Look, we say but-ter!

-"Boot-tuh!"

1:01:581:02:03

-Thank you very much, you see?

-I see. Onions go straight in.

1:02:031:02:06

You sweat the onions.

1:02:061:02:08

-Yep.

-Do not burn. Season a little bit.

1:02:091:02:14

This is the stuffing, yeah?

1:02:141:02:15

-Yeah, it's for the stuffing.

-Right.

1:02:151:02:18

Just a little bit. Then you get the chicken liver.

1:02:191:02:23

You make sure you leave them all in one pieces. Don't cut it.

1:02:231:02:27

Just a little bit of fat, if there is some.

1:02:271:02:31

And we're all in.

1:02:311:02:32

So, where does this recipe come from, then?

1:02:331:02:36

Whereabouts in Italy, or are you just making this up?

1:02:361:02:38

In many part of Italy, everyone is doing his own way of filling

1:02:381:02:42

the porchetta, but they always use chicken livers.

1:02:421:02:45

So, once you start to sweat it, just add the pork mince,

1:02:451:02:50

and you make sure the pork mince is not...

1:02:501:02:52

KNOCKING

1:02:521:02:54

Coming! Coming!

1:02:541:02:55

LAUGHTER

1:02:551:02:56

-Right.

-And then you start to move them around again.

1:02:581:03:02

Then you get some nice rosemary. Don't be afraid.

1:03:021:03:06

Before that, you want a knife? I love the way you done the garlic.

1:03:071:03:12

-That's all right.

-Yep.

1:03:121:03:15

You take a little rosemary.

1:03:151:03:17

Actually, all the rosemary.

1:03:171:03:18

It doesn't matter if they're not so finely cut.

1:03:181:03:22

Some sage.

1:03:221:03:24

Very careful with the sage, because it can overpower.

1:03:241:03:28

-Use about ten leaves of sage.

-OK.

1:03:281:03:31

Don't worry if some of the bits are small.

1:03:311:03:34

It's fantastic. Look at that!

1:03:351:03:38

Then, you get some nice sultanas or raisins.

1:03:381:03:42

Don't worry to put them inside water or wine to soften up.

1:03:421:03:46

Just put them inside. Remember you have to cook them for four hours.

1:03:461:03:50

Then you get some nice pine kernels.

1:03:501:03:53

Pine nuts.

1:03:531:03:55

Then you mix altogether, that's good.

1:03:551:04:00

At this stage, the bread.

1:04:001:04:03

Which is supposed to be soaked in water, which you never done it,

1:04:031:04:07

but never mind, I do it for you.

1:04:071:04:09

What are you doing with it?

1:04:101:04:12

Just soften in water.

1:04:121:04:14

Because I need a bit of moisture.

1:04:141:04:17

You're a bad sous-chef!

1:04:181:04:19

-Right, rosemary's gone in.

-What you put in? Rosemary, garlic, seasoning.

1:04:201:04:25

Saute seasoning. Yep.

1:04:251:04:27

So, the bread's gone in OK.

1:04:281:04:30

Season a little bit, OK?

1:04:301:04:32

At this stage you don't have to do very much,

1:04:321:04:35

just add a little bit of wine.

1:04:351:04:37

Let evaporate the wine. Lemon, we put in after.

1:04:391:04:44

OK? This one is moved.

1:04:441:04:45

-What am I doing with the carrots?

-Just cut it lengthway.

1:04:451:04:52

Oh, my, my.

1:04:521:04:53

The flavour is incredible.

1:04:531:04:55

At this stage, look, it's done.

1:04:551:04:58

There's nothing else. You just remove it, don't have to overcook, you put them on a plate.

1:04:581:05:02

-Right, you want me to get this one that's been in the fridge?

-Yeah.

1:05:021:05:05

-So, you allow it to go cold?

-Yes, fantastic.

1:05:051:05:09

When it's cold, you just add some Parmesan inside, mix it,

1:05:091:05:15

and you have also some lemon zest.

1:05:151:05:17

No lemon juice, like the way you wanted to do it.

1:05:171:05:20

Now, of course, all today's studio recipes,

1:05:201:05:22

including this one from Gennaro are on our website.

1:05:221:05:24

This is the important bit, then.

1:05:281:05:30

This is important bit.

1:05:301:05:31

I'm going to just clean my hands just a little bit more. OK?

1:05:311:05:35

At this stage, this is all seasoned now.

1:05:351:05:39

You get a nice little bit of the filling.

1:05:391:05:42

I use my hands because that's what I'm doing. Just pack them in. Nicely.

1:05:421:05:49

So simple, so easy to do.

1:05:491:05:51

So, what are you putting on there?

1:05:511:05:53

Mortadella. Antonio, can you explain properly what mortadella is?

1:05:531:05:57

Yeah, it is the mixture of

1:05:571:05:59

the cheapest pieces of pork, very finely minced.

1:05:591:06:03

Some put the stuffing inside.

1:06:031:06:06

Lovely, lovely to eat with focaccia.

1:06:061:06:09

Then you roll it. So simple, this is, to do. You roll it up.

1:06:091:06:13

This is about three kg. And then, if you hold this one for me, three metres, enough!

1:06:131:06:20

Now, watch me, what I'm doing. So, you make sure, you got the potato?

1:06:201:06:25

It's equal parts, come down, hold on.

1:06:251:06:29

Oh, nice, this will be interesting.

1:06:291:06:31

Go on, pull this one up.

1:06:311:06:33

-Pull what one?

-That's it, because you done a knot. Ah!

1:06:331:06:38

Cut it, and slowly let me show you what you do.

1:06:381:06:41

Everybody in your home making this, so simple. One and two knot, yes?

1:06:411:06:48

Yeah.

1:06:481:06:49

Knot it in one side, turn it, because it stays.

1:06:491:06:53

-Then you give another knot.

-Yeah.

1:06:531:06:56

Then again, underneath, three part. One, look.

1:06:561:07:01

I leave it.

1:07:011:07:03

Two. Leave it.

1:07:031:07:05

-Yeah?

-Yeah.

-Then we pull them up. Look at that. Look already that!

1:07:071:07:12

-Turn it!

-You are a genius.

-I know. Again, all under it.

1:07:121:07:19

-The other part as well.

-Yep.

1:07:191:07:21

Done it? Yeah?

1:07:231:07:25

Again, one more.

1:07:251:07:27

You don't have to actually ask your butcher to do it.

1:07:271:07:30

It's nice if you do it. Close it up again. The other side. OK?

1:07:301:07:35

-Knot it, OK?

-On.

1:07:351:07:38

On bed of carrots.

1:07:381:07:41

Little oil on top, just for the sake of the salt and pepper.

1:07:411:07:46

In the oven?

1:07:491:07:50

In the oven for 250, for 25 minute,

1:07:501:07:55

and then, you turn down to 150 for three hours.

1:07:551:08:01

Now and again check it.

1:08:021:08:03

Can you give me that stuff out of the fridge...?

1:08:031:08:06

Ahh!

1:08:061:08:08

Mamma Mia! Why I'm cooking so good?!

1:08:081:08:13

Look at this porchetta!

1:08:131:08:15

-Fantastic, this. Can I have a big knife?

-Yes, Chef.

1:08:151:08:18

A serrated knife? Ah!

1:08:181:08:21

Is that all right?

1:08:211:08:22

Yes, yes. And you can see.

1:08:221:08:25

Cut it.

1:08:251:08:28

Have a big slice.

1:08:281:08:30

Save some crackling for me, please.

1:08:301:08:34

Ah! Look at that, James, look at that! Look at that!

1:08:341:08:39

Look at all the filling inside, the mortadella. Where's the plate? I need a plate!

1:08:391:08:43

You don't need a plate, we'll just bring it like that.

1:08:431:08:48

Are you happy with that? I'm happy with that.

1:08:481:08:50

And this is slow roast belly of pork

1:08:501:08:53

porchetta na delizia,

1:08:531:08:55

with saute potato, garlic and rosemary.

1:08:551:08:58

Try to beat me this one, boy, come on, come on!

1:08:581:09:02

Right, here we go. Stuffed pork and spuds.

1:09:061:09:09

What do you mean, stuffed pork and spuds?

1:09:091:09:11

That's what it is, stuffed pork and spuds!

1:09:111:09:13

I can never win, with you.

1:09:131:09:15

My... My goodness!

1:09:151:09:17

Have a seat over here.

1:09:171:09:20

Ah!

1:09:211:09:22

See, the key to this is, eat all the crackling.

1:09:241:09:28

On this show, the camera crew get far too much. There you go. Dive in.

1:09:281:09:33

Need to try this. Yeah.

1:09:331:09:34

Lovely. This is nice.

1:09:351:09:37

Ah, you see?

1:09:371:09:39

Hey-hey!

1:09:391:09:40

Happy with that?

1:09:401:09:41

-This is nice.

-Beautiful!

-There you go.

1:09:431:09:45

Right, we need some wine to go with this.

1:09:451:09:47

Let's see what Susie and Peter have picked to go with Gennaro's spectacular pork.

1:09:471:09:50

Save me some!

1:09:501:09:52

MUSIC: Swing jazz version of "Ding Dong Merrily On High"

1:09:521:09:54

Gennaro, bless you. You've done it again.

1:10:011:10:04

Your Christmas porchetta is a feast for the senses!

1:10:041:10:08

Utterly celebratory and with an inspired mix of seasonal flavours.

1:10:081:10:12

Now, this dish works really well with red or white,

1:10:141:10:17

and because Christmas is about indulging yourself,

1:10:171:10:20

then if you fancy white, go for it.

1:10:201:10:22

Choose something rich but understated like this lovely

1:10:221:10:25

Fiano, which will work like a spoonful of apple sauce.

1:10:251:10:28

But when we tried this dish at home, our star match was a red wine.

1:10:281:10:33

And Gennaro, you'll be pleased to hear, a gorgeous Italian red.

1:10:331:10:38

This Valpolicella Ripasso.

1:10:381:10:41

Valpolicella can be pretty light bodied,

1:10:431:10:45

but when you see the word "ripasso", it means it's got extra

1:10:451:10:49

concentration and more oomph, which is exactly what we need here.

1:10:491:10:53

The classic freshness of this northern Italian red is going

1:10:531:10:57

to cut right through the fattiness of the pork crackling

1:10:571:11:00

and the richness of that stuffing.

1:11:001:11:03

There are some red cherry flavours in this wine

1:11:031:11:05

and they will offset the savoury liver and the mortadella

1:11:051:11:09

and there's some lovely herbal notes

1:11:091:11:11

that will pick up on the rosemary, the sage and the thyme.

1:11:111:11:15

So, Gennaro, you are our very own favourite Father Christmas.

1:11:161:11:20

And here is a stocking filler from us for your festive Italian feast.

1:11:201:11:25

Merry Christmas!

1:11:251:11:26

Merry Christmas indeed. This is going down a storm.

1:11:281:11:30

That slice is more or less gone. What do you think of this?

1:11:301:11:33

Italian red?

1:11:331:11:34

Look, I don't know which is the best, the wine or the porchetta,

1:11:361:11:39

but both together would make Christmas. Thank you.

1:11:391:11:42

It's very, very good.

1:11:421:11:45

Forget the turkey.

1:11:451:11:46

Forget the turkey, you heard that.

1:11:461:11:48

You know what I think about your cooking. This one is special.

1:11:481:11:52

THEY CHEER

1:11:521:11:53

What about the rest of them?

1:11:531:11:55

-Well, we don't talk about that.

-JAMES LAUGHS

1:11:551:11:57

Right, will Johnny be facing his Food Heaven,

1:11:571:12:00

that soft-shell crab with garlic aioli, or his Food Hell,

1:12:001:12:03

Christmas pudding with ice cream and sauteed pineapple?

1:12:031:12:06

Now, we're letting fate decide today.

1:12:061:12:08

You can find out exactly how as well as what Johnny gets

1:12:081:12:11

after the dessert masterclass from the fabulous Frenchman, Raymond Blanc.

1:12:111:12:14

Today, he's making

1:12:141:12:16

one of the greatest French pastries of all time.

1:12:161:12:19

Croque-a-bouche. Bon appetit!

1:12:191:12:21

It's croquembouche.

1:12:211:12:23

It's croque-a-bouche!

1:12:231:12:24

Adam! That's a lot of tart.

1:12:341:12:38

It looks like it's a whole Pompeii we're doing!

1:12:381:12:42

For Raymond's finale, an elaborate tower of nougatine and choux buns.

1:12:491:12:55

Caramelised and filled with orange scented cream.

1:12:551:12:58

This is a quintessential French celebration cake. Croquembouche.

1:12:591:13:04

This is the most well-known, the most loved, the most famous,

1:13:061:13:11

the most celebratory dish in the whole of France.

1:13:111:13:15

It is used for every single wedding,

1:13:151:13:17

for every single birthday,

1:13:171:13:19

I had it for my two weddings.

1:13:191:13:22

HE LAUGHS

1:13:221:13:24

I could have made it three, but it's only two. So far!

1:13:241:13:27

The body of the cake's tower will be made from 80 choux buns.

1:13:301:13:33

Voila.

1:13:331:13:35

Raymond is using the same choux pastry he used for the eclairs.

1:13:351:13:39

Tres bien.

1:13:391:13:40

The buns go into a preheated oven for 30 minutes at 170 degrees.

1:13:421:13:47

So now, we are going to prepare the nougatine.

1:13:471:13:51

Nougatine is a caramel and almond crisp that will form the base

1:13:511:13:55

and decoration for the cake.

1:13:551:13:57

Tres bien.

1:13:571:13:59

Raymond is using 480 g of fondant and 320 g of liquid glucose.

1:13:591:14:04

Look at that.

1:14:041:14:06

And the beauty of it, I think it is very flexible,

1:14:061:14:09

gives density to your sugar

1:14:091:14:11

and it doesn't crystallise.

1:14:111:14:13

OK, so my blonde caramel is here.

1:14:131:14:15

A bit of butter. Spatula, please.

1:14:201:14:23

The caramel is heated until it's a light blonde colour.

1:14:231:14:26

And then, he stirs in 400 g of toasted almonds

1:14:261:14:30

and turns the mixture out to cool slightly.

1:14:301:14:34

Voila. So, needless to say, it is very hot. We have to be very careful.

1:14:341:14:40

The nougatine needs to be rolled to a thickness of three to four mm.

1:14:431:14:48

You need your strength here, a man's strength.

1:14:481:14:51

It is about the only time when you need a man.

1:14:511:14:53

And now, it's too hard, the caramel is really too hard and it's difficult.

1:14:571:15:02

As it cools, it starts to stiffen,

1:15:021:15:03

so Raymond places it back in the oven to soften.

1:15:031:15:06

When it is the right thickness, Raymond shapes the nougatine into a

1:15:131:15:16

lightly oiled pie dish.

1:15:161:15:18

It's hot so you can work it out.

1:15:191:15:23

Tres bien.

1:15:231:15:25

Now, this is going to be the base of the piece montee.

1:15:251:15:28

Raymond also uses the nougatine to make decorative shapes.

1:15:311:15:35

Crescents.

1:15:351:15:36

I'm going to cut my moon shape.

1:15:361:15:39

And triangles.

1:15:391:15:41

So I am going to put them to one side

1:15:411:15:44

and then I am going to do my choux pastry.

1:15:441:15:47

OK? S'il vous plait.

1:15:471:15:48

Adam, could I have the choux buns, the cream to fill it up and all? Thank you.

1:15:481:15:52

Tres bien.

1:15:541:15:56

We're going to fill them up, you're going to give me a hand, OK?

1:15:561:15:59

For the filling, Raymond makes an orange flavoured pastry cream.

1:15:591:16:03

Orange, we are going to put a little Grand Marnier. Well, a big slug.

1:16:041:16:10

-With 80 buns to fill, he enlists some help.

-The small ones this way.

1:16:121:16:17

To create a sweet and shiny finish,

1:16:201:16:22

Raymond dips the choux buns in caramel heated to 185 degrees.

1:16:221:16:27

Very little, you don't have too much caramel, with some lovely,

1:16:281:16:33

nice and shiny crust, which is very beautiful, very appetising

1:16:331:16:37

and of course delicious texture.

1:16:371:16:39

For an added detail, he dipped some of the buns in nibbed sugar.

1:16:391:16:43

It is a labour of love, that's what it is.

1:16:441:16:46

If you have the pleasure to do it for your party,

1:16:461:16:50

for your own friends or loved ones,

1:16:501:16:52

I think it makes it special.

1:16:521:16:54

OK. C'est bien.

1:16:541:16:56

With all the elements ready,

1:16:561:16:58

Raymond can begin the real work of building the tower.

1:16:581:17:02

To cement the choux buns together he is using caramel.

1:17:041:17:07

My geometry is so bad, I like what is asymmetric, I hate symmetry.

1:17:111:17:15

So I'm ill at ease a bit at the moment.

1:17:151:17:18

It is a very small one really. You should see some pieces montees

1:17:251:17:27

in France, they are about two metres tall,

1:17:271:17:32

it is amazing.

1:17:321:17:33

We have our first part of the piece montee.

1:17:351:17:39

There is a few sticking out, but it's all right.

1:17:401:17:44

With the tower built, decoration begins.

1:17:441:17:47

We're going to do our moon shape here. OK.

1:17:471:17:51

You won't see that. Voila.

1:17:511:17:53

S-shaped choux pastry provides a support for the last tier.

1:17:551:18:00

Tres bien. Voila.

1:18:001:18:02

The two are not going to fit. That's usually what's happening. It's OK.

1:18:051:18:11

Delicately placed sugar almonds give a traditional detail.

1:18:171:18:21

You can do sugar roses as well, you can do all sorts of different...

1:18:211:18:25

You can use shredded sugar all over. Tres bien.

1:18:251:18:29

Finally, some gravity-defying royal icing ribbons.

1:18:301:18:34

Voila.

1:18:361:18:38

I know sometimes you can spend a great deal of time cooking,

1:18:381:18:41

but I think it is a lovely thing to do.

1:18:411:18:44

I think when you have created something very beautiful

1:18:461:18:49

and you give it to your friends, what more can you give?

1:18:491:18:51

Well, you can give much more, but it is something which is special.

1:18:511:18:56

Actually that cake...

1:19:121:19:14

I wanted to do it for Adam and Elisa, who just got

1:19:171:19:22

married about a few months ago and that cake is for you, Adam.

1:19:221:19:26

-It's for you. Congratulations.

-Thank you.

1:19:261:19:30

I'm so happy to have done it for you.

1:19:301:19:32

And you are going to take it back home, afterwards.

1:19:321:19:36

-How are we going to get that home?

-Somehow! We'll find a way! OK?

1:19:361:19:39

-Thank you very much. Thank you, chef.

-Congratulations.

1:19:391:19:41

Come on, give me a big hug, Englishman. Ha, ha!

1:19:411:19:43

There'll be more from Raymond next week. Right. It's time to find out

1:19:481:19:51

whether Johnny will be facing Food Heaven or Food Hell.

1:19:511:19:53

Food Heaven would of course be this soft shell crab, which

1:19:531:19:55

I believe you've never seen before like this?

1:19:551:19:57

I've never seen it unprepared before.

1:19:571:19:59

These are the soft-shell crabs which can be deep fried in a lovely

1:19:591:20:02

vodka and tonic batter.

1:20:021:20:04

Served with chips and an aioli, which is garlic mayonnaise.

1:20:041:20:08

Alternatively, Food Hell would be that lovely-looking Christmas pudding there...

1:20:081:20:12

Why does it exist?

1:20:121:20:13

..transformed into ice cream with a nice little caramel sauce

1:20:131:20:16

with star anise cinnamon and nutmeg to go with it and some pineapple.

1:20:161:20:19

But since it's Christmas, we've got special Christmas crackers here.

1:20:191:20:22

Inside one of these is the word "heaven", inside the other,

1:20:221:20:25

the word "hell".

1:20:251:20:27

-First of all, choose a cracker.

-Left.

-Which one?

1:20:271:20:30

-This one?

-Yeah.

1:20:301:20:32

-Right!

-Left!

-Left? No, that looks...

1:20:321:20:35

-I'm going for the simple...

-Go on then.

1:20:351:20:38

Right.

1:20:381:20:40

-You've chosen well.

-Wha...

1:20:411:20:43

-You...

-You've chosen well!

1:20:431:20:45

CHEERING

1:20:451:20:47

Yes, yes!

1:20:471:20:49

Just to prove it, you guys pull that one. There you go.

1:20:491:20:52

There you go, soft shell crab.

1:20:561:20:58

First of all I'll make the batter for this. I want the guys

1:20:581:21:01

to separate the eggs, two egg yolks into the machine there.

1:21:011:21:06

Flour, we're going to put in. We've got a pinch of sugar.

1:21:061:21:10

That's going in the batter.

1:21:101:21:12

We've got some yeast. We've got some vodka.

1:21:121:21:16

-We've got a touch of vinegar.

-You're supposed to taste it, aren't you?

1:21:161:21:20

No, not this one.

1:21:201:21:21

Then you've got some tonic. Put all that in there.

1:21:211:21:25

-Wow!

-We'll mix that together into a nice little batter.

1:21:251:21:29

Meanwhile, if you can put the egg yolks into that little machine there.

1:21:291:21:32

That would be great. Just egg yolks.

1:21:321:21:35

We're going to make a little mayonnaise.

1:21:351:21:37

A little mayonnaise. We'll make a nice batter, but make it not too thick.

1:21:371:21:42

Yeah. We're going to add the saffron at the end.

1:21:421:21:47

Can we make a Christmas lantern with the lemon?

1:21:471:21:49

If you would like to make a Christmas lantern.

1:21:491:21:52

We've got some saffron.

1:21:521:21:54

Put that in there with just a touch of white wine to get

1:21:541:21:59

that going first of all.

1:21:591:22:00

Just to infuse out all the flavour of the saffron.

1:22:001:22:04

You get this lovely colour.

1:22:041:22:07

Then put the machine on, get that blended

1:22:071:22:11

-and make a nice little mayonnaise.

-I can't make that.

1:22:111:22:16

What is the key with getting a little mayonnaise?

1:22:161:22:18

Well...add the oil really slowly, that's the key to this one.

1:22:181:22:24

-White wine goes in.

-You add it bit by bit?!

-Yeah, tiny bit by tiny bit.

1:22:241:22:28

I poured it all in at once and walked off.

1:22:281:22:32

The Italians would do that but in this case we don't.

1:22:321:22:34

Instead of using olive oil, traditionally in mayonnaise

1:22:361:22:39

they use veg oil,

1:22:391:22:40

this one's got rapeseed oil which makes it lovely and yellow.

1:22:401:22:45

Yes, rapeseed oil. You just keep adding this slowly.

1:22:451:22:48

The more oil you add the thicker it becomes.

1:22:481:22:51

To offset that, you add a touch of water if you want.

1:22:511:22:54

It gets thicker and thicker, you see.

1:22:541:22:56

These are what you've never seen before.

1:22:561:22:59

-You put a little bit of lemon or not?

-We'll do that at the end.

1:22:591:23:01

We've got some garlic and saffron to add at the end.

1:23:011:23:04

-These are the soft shell crabs... Which they use a lot in Italy.

-Yes!

1:23:041:23:08

-I thought this was predominantly an Asian dish.

-No, no.

1:23:081:23:12

-The Italians have claimed that one as well.

-It was Marco Polo.

1:23:121:23:18

Antonio, I just come back from Venice, there was the last of the soft shell crabs.

1:23:181:23:22

-Very nice.

-Did you know that they actually drowned these in egg?

1:23:221:23:27

I know. I know!

1:23:271:23:29

They eat the egg. They drown them and then they fry them. Salad.

1:23:311:23:34

-Using all of it or not?

-Yes, you can use all of it.

1:23:341:23:38

So that's going to go in.

1:23:381:23:39

The garlic - because this is predominantly garlic mayonnaise,

1:23:391:23:42

-so we cook the garlic beforehand.

-I love garlic.

1:23:421:23:44

We cook the garlic in white wine

1:23:441:23:46

and then you've got this saffron which we'll add in a minute.

1:23:461:23:50

Can you look after the chips in the fryer please? Thank you very much.

1:23:501:23:54

-Can I have the saffron please?

-Yep.

1:23:541:23:57

-We are ready here, this is ready.

-Not far off.

1:23:591:24:01

So you can see we've got the mayonnaise, now we add the saffron.

1:24:011:24:05

-You can add the bits of saffron as well.

-I will, yeah.

1:24:051:24:09

Bits of saffron, they go in.

1:24:091:24:11

The first time, three Italians here on Saturday Kitchen.

1:24:111:24:15

Tiny bit of mustard, just a bit, a teaspoon.

1:24:151:24:18

And then take one clove of garlic. It's been cooked.

1:24:221:24:26

Come on, this is Food Heaven!

1:24:261:24:28

I cook it to stop it from being too strong. Then all we do...

1:24:281:24:31

Can you take the chips out, Gennaro, please?

1:24:311:24:33

Nearly ready!

1:24:331:24:35

I just need the fryer. Right.

1:24:371:24:38

That's it.

1:24:431:24:45

So, hot oil. I'll put one of 'em in.

1:24:451:24:48

They are seasonal, aren't they?

1:24:481:24:50

-Yeah, these ones.

-Cos my mum's tried to fake this by leaving them

1:24:501:24:53

on a radiator like crayons.

1:24:531:24:55

-Then you throw in your crab like that.

-Wow!

1:24:571:25:00

-If you want to put the other one in?

-Yeah.

1:25:001:25:02

That's it, straight in.

1:25:051:25:07

Between me and you, cos these guys won't have a clue about scraps,

1:25:101:25:14

-you've got to have scraps.

-Oh, aye.

1:25:141:25:16

-You see.

-Scraps - I love it.

1:25:161:25:19

Scraps over the top of their head.

1:25:191:25:21

Yeah, but would you pay extra for them?

1:25:211:25:24

-In Italia we call them rospi.

-In Italy, they invented scraps now, here we go.

1:25:241:25:27

And the secret is, with the batter, cos you've got the vodka in it,

1:25:271:25:30

it hits the fryer and explodes

1:25:301:25:33

and you've got this really crispy batter.

1:25:331:25:37

-You can of course use tempura.

-The tonic with it?

-Here's the garnish.

1:25:371:25:40

Is that it?

1:25:401:25:42

-Is that it, just that salad?

-No, no, there is salad here.

1:25:421:25:45

Did you turn...? I'm not going to say a word.

1:25:451:25:48

ALL TALK AT ONCE

1:25:481:25:50

Seasoning, salt and pepper.

1:25:501:25:52

Have you mistook me for a fussy child?

1:25:521:25:55

Yes, we have, yeah.

1:25:551:25:58

-Bit of salt and pepper, please.

-Give me sugar here.

1:25:581:26:02

It's Food Heaven, I don't want to be overfazed by the salad.

1:26:021:26:06

LAUGHTER

1:26:061:26:08

-You know when you fill up on salad and can't finish your meal.

-Exactly.

1:26:081:26:12

Right, then we've got...

1:26:121:26:14

Waaaaay!

1:26:141:26:16

-Look at that.

-Aw, man, that looks de... Oh! Wow!

1:26:171:26:22

-Yes.

-Then you've got your scraps which we'll put on there as well.

1:26:221:26:26

We should make them beg for them.

1:26:261:26:28

If I get these over. Good pinch of salt.

1:26:281:26:32

How are we doing? Back over here.

1:26:321:26:34

Salt is there.

1:26:341:26:36

There we go... Nice plate.

1:26:381:26:40

Then you've got your deep fried... Just to proof one.

1:26:401:26:45

Try that batter.

1:26:451:26:48

I'm ready here.

1:26:491:26:51

I'm going to refry the chips cos Gennaro's left them a little bit...

1:26:511:26:55

-Chips not paper.

-Yeah.

1:26:551:26:57

You know the philosophy of the scrap?

1:26:581:27:01

In Germany they say that very thick skin can replace very weak spine.

1:27:011:27:08

Little bit of aioli in there.

1:27:081:27:10

So there you have your thick aioli.

1:27:101:27:14

Then we've got the chips, we'll get a little plate here.

1:27:141:27:18

-Fish and chips.

-Fish and chips, you see. Bit of salt.

1:27:181:27:21

I've already done it.

1:27:211:27:23

But I'll put an extra bit.

1:27:231:27:25

Come on, nothing says God bless us one and all more than soft shell crab.

1:27:261:27:30

And frozen chips.

1:27:301:27:33

So there you have it. You have your deep-fried soft shell crab.

1:27:331:27:37

Peter and Susie have chosen an excellent fizz called an English

1:27:371:27:40

sparkler, called Nyetimber.

1:27:401:27:41

It's a classic cuvee and it's from Majestic.

1:27:411:27:44

2004 vintage and it's £23.99.

1:27:441:27:48

And I think this is lovely.

1:27:481:27:52

I think it gives Prosecco a run for its money.

1:27:521:27:55

-Can we tuck in?

-Dive in.

1:27:551:27:56

The whole point about it is, you rip the claws off,

1:27:561:27:59

-dunk them into the sauce and dive in.

-All right.

1:27:591:28:02

-Remember the sauce.

-I'm not getting the sauce.

1:28:041:28:07

-One second.

-Fantastic. Serious stuff.

-Mmmm!

1:28:091:28:12

That is beautiful.

1:28:121:28:13

-Happy with that?

-Yeah. We should be.

-The book's called?

1:28:131:28:16

The book is called, Becoming Johnny Vegas, My Guide To Soft Shell Crab.

1:28:161:28:21

LAUGHTER

1:28:211:28:23

-It's a subtitle.

-It's out now. That's all from Saturday Kitchen.

1:28:231:28:26

Thanks to Antonio Carluccio, Giancarlo Caldesi, Gennaro Contaldo

1:28:261:28:30

and of course, the fabulous Johnny Vegas.

1:28:301:28:31

Cheers to both Susie Barry

1:28:311:28:33

and Peter Richards for the brilliant choices of wine today.

1:28:331:28:35

Remember all the recipes are on our website,

1:28:351:28:38

go to bbc.co.uk/saturdaykitchen.

1:28:381:28:40

We'll be back next Saturday, in the meantime, have a very...

1:28:401:28:44

ALL: Merry Christmas!

1:28:441:28:46

And may all your food be heaven.

1:28:461:28:48

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