Episode 1 Spring Kitchen with Tom Kerridge


Episode 1

Chef Tom Kerridge celebrates the best of spring food with celebrity guests and delicious recipes. He is joined by Sherlock actress Amanda Abbington and guest chef Jose Pizarro.


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Transcript


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It's springtime at last and we're serving up some of the very best

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of the new season's lush produce right here for you.

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Welcome to Spring Kitchen.

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Hello and welcome. We have a brilliant seasonal feast

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coming up for you this afternoon.

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We've been down to the beautiful Port Isaac in Cornwall

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to visit Nathan Outlaw who does a simple but rich

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beer-braised turbot dish especially for us.

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Plus, we're delving into the BBC food archive to visit

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Nigel Slater for some roasted rhubarb and fresh mackerel.

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With me today in the studio is one of the best Spanish chefs

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in the country. He brings with him a ray of sunshine wherever he goes.

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It's the amazing Jose Pizarro.

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I've also invited a special kitchen guest,

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Dave Finkle who is our resident farmer who's going to be telling us

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all sorts of stuff about things on offer this time of year.

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Looking forward to it. And this year we've got asparagus

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which is the quintessential and perfect British seasonal product

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-and we've got cucumbers and spring onions.

-Fantastic. OK.

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Also joining us in the studio today to sample this season's treats,

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we have a British actress from TV shows including Case Histories

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and Mr Selfridge.

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But now she's best known to us as Dr John Watson's

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troublesome wife in the huge BBC hit series Sherlock.

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-It's Amanda Abbington. Hello, Amanda. How are you?

-Very well.

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-How are you?

-Good, good. Now, you're a big foodie fan.

-Huge foodie fan.

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-I love it.

-And all sorts of things? Or anything you don't eat?

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I try and not eat red meat.

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-Red meat?

-Yeah, I just...

-Red meat, that shouldn't be a problem today.

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We're all right, I think. Me and Jose have got it covered.

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Jose, what have you got coming up for us?

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-My first vegetarian dish ever on TV.

-First-ever vegetarian dish!

-Wow.

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-Tell me what it is.

-Cauliflower stuffed with pisto,

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slow vegetable stew, slow-cooked

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-and then fried with some pea puree. How do you say that?

-Pea puree.

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-Mushy peas, basically.

-Mushy peas.

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-It's a wonderful Spanish version of mushy peas.

-And Manchego.

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And Manchego cheese. OK. And then later on,

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I'm going to be making a great spring recipe using crab,

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spring onions and apples. I'm going to be making a fresh ravioli,

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stuffing it with a filling of crab and cucumber

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and then on top of that, some spring-onion dressing

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that's going to be made with a little bit of cloudy apple juice.

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-Fingers crossed it's up your street.

-That's right up my...

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-Crab's always up my street.

-Now, Dave, you're with us to tell us

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all about things that are seasonal and perfect for this time of year.

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You've already mentioned asparagus.

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-Anything else that's going to be great?

-Yeah, well, you've got

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spring onions which are perfect for this time of year and cucumbers.

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Spring onions and cucumbers. And asparagus again,

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-season's started right now.

-It's spot on.

-Spot on. OK.

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Which is good because that's the first dish I'm going to be cooking,

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-so you'd better come with me and we'll get going.

-Let's do it.

-OK.

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So, this is a very simple and lovely asparagus dish.

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Now, I'm a massive fan of asparagus. It's the chef's point of view.

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We wait for asparagus to turn up at this time of year

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because it signals that spring is here

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and for me asparagus is one of the best English things that we do ever.

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But this one is white asparagus. You normally see the green stuff.

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-So, Dave, what's the difference between the two?

-Well, basically,

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your green asparagus has had the pleasure of daylight and sunshine,

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but white asparagus is actually grown in the dark indoors.

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And the reason white asparagus generally is a much larger

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type of asparagus is the plant feels like it's under attack

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when it's kept in the dark, so it's permanently pushing

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aggressively to try and reach any sunlight and daylight.

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So, that's what makes it grow. That's why it's quite big as well.

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You can see it's actually a little bit thicker than the normal asparagus.

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But the beauty of it still being white in colour

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is actually it stops the asparagus becoming slightly woody

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which gives your experts, your chefs, an opportunity there

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to actually cook it in a different way, at lower temperatures.

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Does it taste different?

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Yeah, it's slightly more delicate. But because it's quite tender,

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it allows you to explore with it on different types of dishes.

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It does have quite a rich flavour to it as well. It's not quite as...

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It doesn't necessarily feel as fresh as the green asparagus.

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It's almost meaty in texture which is... If you're a non-meat eater,

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-it's a nice way of getting that...

-Would you normally peel it?

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Yeah, I've peeled it. Just taken the outside of the asparagus off.

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It sometimes has a little bit of a slightly bitter flavour to it.

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Then I'm just going to put it into some water here

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with a little bit of salt and then I'm going to put in some butter.

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Now, the two types of butter I've got here, I've got normal butter

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and I've got some smoked butter. This is butter that has been

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cold smoked. We've actually cold smoked this one ourselves.

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What you do is you put it under a glass dome and then pump

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loads of smoke into it from a little magic gun.

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But if you haven't got that at home, like I imagine most people,

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what you'll able to do is just do it...

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buy it online. You can buy smoked butter online.

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-Are you a butter fan?

-A big huge butter fan.

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OK. So, we're just going to... What we're going to do is cook this...

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This is called "etuvee" and it's a classic French term, an emulsion.

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The water and the butter are going to emulsify together

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and then it will also create our sauce.

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Lid on. Get it cooking.

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-So, Sherlock.

-Yeah.

-Sherlock. What a massive, huge hit that was.

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-Yeah. it's been amazing. Good show.

-It has been incredible.

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Huge amount of viewers. How many was the Christmas special?

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I can't remember. Steven Moffat would know.

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I was very honoured to be part of it, actually.

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It was a real joy to be part of it. It was already a huge success

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before I joined, weirdly.

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-But it was good fun.

-So, you've joined as Dr John Watson's wife.

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-Yes.

-And it's not actually all that it seems, the Christmas special.

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It turns out you're a trained assassin as well.

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Yeah, I was a trained assassin. I didn't kill Sherlock,

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-but I shot him.

-OK. And filming another series of that?

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I hope so. I don't know.

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Nobody knows. We were hoping to do one this autumn.

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There aren't any secrets you can tell us about it?

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-I can't tell you anything, no.

-You can't tell me anything?

-No.

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And I know lots. I know a lot. I know a lot about it.

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You wouldn't be able to tell me because you're a trained assassin.

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-I'd have to kill you.

-OK. Perfect.

-It would just be messy.

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We'll just stay silent with that.

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And of course, you're working with Martin Freeman

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-who is your actual other half in real life.

-He is. He is.

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What's that like, working and living together? I know.

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-I live and work with my wife.

-Do you?

-Yeah, I do indeed.

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-It's awful, isn't it?

-No, it's amazing.

-I'm joking! I'm joking!

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-We have a wonderful time.

-I'm joking. I love working with Martin.

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I think he's one of our brightest actors

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and I'm very happy that I get to work with him.

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I mean, Martin for me is fantastic.

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Actually, I remember being a big Martin fan

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-when I first saw him as Ali G's mate in Ali G, The Movie...

-Ricky C.

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..which was fantastic. And then recently this weekend

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-watching Fargo.

-Wasn't it good?

-Absolutely brilliant. Now, I was

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-a huge fan of the Coen brothers...

-Me too.

-..and their movies,

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-but this I think is absolutely...

-Him and Billy Bob I think

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just stole it for me. I thought it was an amazing, amazing performance.

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-I can't wait to see the rest.

-No, I can't wait to see the rest of it.

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Looking forward to it. And Mr Selfridge as well.

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-Start filming that tomorrow.

-You are a busy girl.

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Yeah, it's my first day tomorrow until October.

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-Right through to October?

-Right through to the summer, yeah.

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-You are a busy girl.

-Yeah, which is lovely. It's nice.

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It's always nice to be a busy actor cos so frequently we're not.

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-Yeah.

-So it's nice to be in work.

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Then does Martin spend a lot of his time away?

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He has done but he'll be here for the foreseeable future.

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He's working in London till the end of the year,

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so we'll have some family time which is just lovely

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cos we've missed each other so it's nice to...

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-to spend a bit of time together.

-Yeah, I've got my buddy back.

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Yeah. And you're doing something for charity.

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I'm doing a thing called Live Below the Line which is where you live

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-on a pound a day for five days...

-A pound a day?

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Just to highlight global... Just! To highlight global poverty.

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A pound a day, is that actually for food?

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All food and drink, everything.

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A pound a day. We might be in trouble. When does that start?

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-Monday.

-That's all right cos one of these is about a pound.

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Yes, that's...

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-You're properly having a week's worth just in this dish now.

-Yeah.

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-Better make it last.

-It's all right because Jose's doing something

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-vegetarian, so it's not actually going to be that expensive.

-No.

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Yeah, so it's quite daunting,

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but I think it's such a relevant thing to talk about

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and alert people about.

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So, have you got any ideas of what you're going to be eating?

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I haven't got a clue yet.

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I've sort of being looking at various things

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and seeing what I can buy for my pound.

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-Seeing what you can buy for your pound?

-Yeah.

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-Which probably turns out to be not a lot.

-No, I don't think so.

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Not a lot. I imagine there's going to be no waste.

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-No.

-That's what you're going to be looking at.

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That's also one of the reasons why I'm doing it

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cos I'm wasteful. I think most people are.

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You tend to throw things out of your fridge and not think about it.

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I think this will probably help me be more aware of that

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and hopefully other people will do the same.

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OK. So...

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So, have you got any tips, Jose, for no waste, no wastage?

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-Well, nice lentils, things like that.

-I was thinking lentils.

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Some vegetables.

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Go for stewing.

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-The pisto I'm going to be cooking today is perfect for you.

-OK.

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Anything we have left over I'm sure you can take away with you.

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-That's what I'm planning on.

-Maybe it will get you through the week.

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-Absolutely.

-Does that count? Is that allowed?

-No, I can't do that.

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OK. So, I've got the white asparagus that I've just cooked in that

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-little bit of butter.

-What did you put on top?

-OK.

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That is something called lardo which is a cured pork back fat

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which is very flavoursome, really tasty,

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salty, porky kind of flavours. If you haven't got lardo,

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you can use something like Parma ham which is...

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Sorry, chef. Serrano ham. We're with a Spanish person. We can't use...

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You know what, even better, nice, fat from the iberico, jamon iberico.

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-Yeah.

-Heaven.

-Some iberico.

-Oh, yeah.

-There we go. There we go.

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So, we can use some wonderful Spanish ingredients,

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rather than just...

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..the Parma ham. So, all we've done is just wilted that down

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just a little bit over the top. Then we're going to dress it

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with a little bit of this cooking butter that's got

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a lovely smoky kind of flavour going through from the smoked butter.

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-Wow.

-Dress the top of that.

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-Amazing.

-We're going to grate on a little bit of the lemon zest.

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What happens when you put citrus on at the last minute...

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-Citrus contains a huge amount of oil...

-OK.

-..in that skin

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and it gives it a real fresh kick right at the end.

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Then into that...

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a few little crumbly pieces...

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you want to keep them quite chunky, of Parmesan.

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And then on top of that, another piece or two of the chervil.

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Boys, come on over. You can come and have a try of this.

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-Well, hang on.

-Hold on, boys. You'll have to fight for it.

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-You'll have to fight for it, boys.

-I don't think so.

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Then just a little bit of pork sauce.

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-That looks amazing, doesn't it?

-We'll use the butter spoon.

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A little bit of sauce,

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-just enhance that porky flavour.

-That would take me hours to make.

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-I couldn't do that. There's no way.

-I tell you what I forgot,

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on the top here, we've got some green raw asparagus.

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Get yourselves knives and forks. Get in there.

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-Two different types of asparagus.

-I'm going to go first cos I'm a girl.

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You go first, you're a girl.

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-Get in there.

-I'm going to have a bit of that cheese.

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-White asparagus. Beautiful, rich, meaty.

-Oh, my God.

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-How are we getting on?

-That's beautiful.

-Tasty? Very simple.

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-Amigo, spring is here.

-Very simple.

-Fabulous.

-Really fresh, isn't it?

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OK. Now, in every show, we're getting out and about

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and visiting some of our favourite chefs on their home turf.

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Today's field trip is to Cornwall to see Nathan Outlaw

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who's shopping for fish in the beautiful Port Isaac.

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This time of year in Cornwall, springtime is fantastic.

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The sun's starting to shine, it's starting to warm up a bit

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and I tell you what, the ingredients are starting to get fantastic as well.

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It gives us so much flexibility to what we could put on the menu

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and today I've got a recipe that encapsulates springtime for me.

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There's only one thing for it.

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It's me, the fish man, so I need to go and get some fish.

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-Morning, Nathan. How are you?

-Cool, yeah. I'm after some turbot.

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-Have you got any turbot?

-Yeah. I'll show you what we've got today.

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-Cheers.

-There you go. A nice decent-sized turbot there.

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That's perfect. I just want a couple of steaks off it.

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-Box it up and I'll take the whole thing.

-I'll do that right now.

-Cheers.

-No problem.

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-There you go.

-Cheers. Thank you very much. Nice one. Take care.

-Take care.

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Now, we've got a lovely Spring Kitchen recipe for you.

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Turbot with bacon, peas and all cooked in ale.

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So, the most important ingredient is the turbot we've picked up

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this morning. Ale, very, very important ingredient.

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Some lovely, lovely peas.

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Some bacon and then there's a few shallots,

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rosemary and garlic in there as well, just to bring it all together.

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I think it's a beautiful Spring Kitchen recipe.

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Now, the first thing we need to do is to grill the bacon.

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Lovely smoked, streaky bacon.

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I want to get that nice and crispy.

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Now, the next thing we need to do is get a pan nice and hot.

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Some rapeseed oil in there. Just some light rapeseed oil.

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A bit of butter.

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OK. So, once the butter's starting to melt and starting to bubble,

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we've got some whole shallots that we've already peeled.

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I'm cooking this for two people. I'm allowing about five shallots each.

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Then it looks a bit strange cooking whole garlic cloves,

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but trust me, once they've cooked, they'll be lovely.

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Whole garlic cloves in there as well. About three a portion.

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A little bit of rosemary as well.

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OK. So, once you've got a little bit of colour on the shallots and garlic,

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next thing we need to add to that is some red wine vinegar.

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It's important to add vinegar to things, just for acidity.

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So, the vinegar goes in...

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and we just reduce that down so there's almost nothing left at all.

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OK, so the bacon's done.

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We'll leave that to one side to let it cool down

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and then chop through that later.

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I've made some fish stock with the turbot bones.

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A little tip for getting a lovely flavour from your fish stock

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is to roast the bones.

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You will get a lovely, flavourful, roasted fish stock,

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as opposed to that boiled fish stock.

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Once the fish stock comes to the boil,

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the next thing to do is add the ale,

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one of the most important ingredients of this braising liquor.

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The next thing to do is season the turbot steaks.

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All we do is pop the turbot straight into the stock.

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If you haven't got turbot and can't afford it,

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because it is quite expensive, a piece of hake

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will work perfectly in here as well.

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It's perfect for white fish.

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Cover with foil.

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Let tick over for ten minutes.

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I know that'll cook the fish just right.

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If it's a bit thinner than my fish, take a bit less.

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If it's a whole fish it's going to take a bit longer.

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Whilst that's cooking, the next thing we need to do is chop parsley

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and chop through this bacon.

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Don't waste that.

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That's flavour on the tray, that will go in at the end as well.

0:16:090:16:13

It's quite rough. The finer you chop them, the more the essential oils

0:16:130:16:17

and flavour go into the chopping board.

0:16:170:16:19

You're better off having that in your pan.

0:16:190:16:22

Then with the bacon, we are going to just cut across the rasher,

0:16:230:16:26

and we'll sprinkle that over the top at the end.

0:16:260:16:30

The turbot's been cooking for about eight to ten minutes.

0:16:300:16:33

I'm going to remove the foil.

0:16:330:16:34

We have got this baking tray and, as I said before,

0:16:360:16:38

there's flavour in there.

0:16:380:16:40

It may look like a dirty tray to you, but it's not,

0:16:400:16:42

it's all the flavour from the bacon. Take that out.

0:16:420:16:44

That's the good thing about fish on the bone,

0:16:460:16:48

turbot in particular. It rests like a piece of meat.

0:16:480:16:51

A lot of people have probably cooked turbot,

0:16:510:16:53

served it straightaway and thought, "That's quite tough."

0:16:530:16:56

It's because it needs to rest like meat. That's the answer to that.

0:16:560:17:00

Whilst that's resting, get this to the boil, then we need some richness.

0:17:000:17:04

A nice piece of butter will do the trick.

0:17:040:17:07

A little bit of butter.

0:17:070:17:08

Once the butter is incorporated,

0:17:110:17:13

we are going to add the fresh peas to it.

0:17:130:17:15

All we need do now is peel the turbot.

0:17:180:17:22

The reason why I do that is the skin's not very nice to eat.

0:17:220:17:25

It's all right if it's crisped up,

0:17:250:17:27

but we are going to remove the skin,

0:17:270:17:29

then pop the turbot back in.

0:17:290:17:31

And then all-important, all them juices that are on there,

0:17:360:17:40

the bacon fat and any resting juices from the fish goes in there as well.

0:17:400:17:46

Then the last thing we do is add the parsley.

0:17:460:17:49

Give it a stir.

0:17:510:17:52

That's it.

0:17:540:17:55

All we've got to do now is plate it up.

0:17:550:17:57

Lovely turbot.

0:17:580:18:01

You have to swim around a bit for the shallots.

0:18:010:18:04

A few spoonfuls of that lovely braising liquor.

0:18:090:18:14

Oh, looks lovely!

0:18:140:18:15

We'll finish the whole thing off with some crispy bacon.

0:18:150:18:19

There you have it, that's my lovely braised turbot in beer,

0:18:210:18:25

with peas, shallots and bacon.

0:18:250:18:27

I can't let that go without tasting it because it looks lovely.

0:18:290:18:32

That's very good.

0:18:370:18:39

Tastes of spring.

0:18:390:18:41

Lovely peas, salty bacon, meaty fish and then beer.

0:18:410:18:45

What can be wrong with that?

0:18:450:18:47

Thank you very much, Nathan.

0:18:540:18:55

I've got to be honest, what could be better than a piece of fish

0:18:550:18:58

poached in beer served with bacon?

0:18:580:19:00

-Sounds amazing to me.

-Happy days.

0:19:000:19:03

Jose, you're going to get cooking. What are you doing for us?

0:19:030:19:06

I need your help with this.

0:19:060:19:08

Blanch them.

0:19:080:19:10

-Blanch the peas.

-Yeah.

0:19:100:19:11

-Then I'm going to start chopping some aubergines.

-We'll get chopping.

0:19:110:19:15

Then you're going to help me with some red onions and white onions.

0:19:150:19:19

On it, chef.

0:19:190:19:21

-These peas are going into some boiling, salted water.

-Absolutely.

0:19:210:19:25

These are frozen peas, not fresh.

0:19:250:19:27

-Nothing wrong with that.

-Nothing wrong with that.

0:19:270:19:30

Resident farmer Dave. What do we make of frozen peas?

0:19:300:19:33

They are brilliant.

0:19:330:19:35

Actually, peas dehydrate so quickly after you've harvested them,

0:19:350:19:39

so freezing them is the best thing you can do for them.

0:19:390:19:41

They maintain their nutritional balance

0:19:410:19:44

and keeps all the vitamins and minerals in there.

0:19:440:19:46

So what happens... The sugar starts to turn to starch?

0:19:460:19:50

That's part of the process.

0:19:500:19:52

Then the vitamins and mineral contents start to degrade

0:19:520:19:55

and they just don't taste nice after that.

0:19:550:19:58

So frozen peas are the way forward.

0:19:580:20:00

Absolutely, and they take, like, 25 seconds, something like that,

0:20:000:20:05

to go from the plant to the fridge.

0:20:050:20:08

Really? That's how quickly they have to get from field. I love that!

0:20:080:20:13

-Busy, busy.

-Huge operation.

0:20:130:20:15

-Pea farmers are super busy - quick hands.

-Indeed!

0:20:150:20:18

OK.

0:20:200:20:22

I am dicing red onion, white onion.

0:20:220:20:26

This is a Spanish onion, I take it?

0:20:260:20:28

Absolutely has to be.

0:20:280:20:30

And we are making something that you call...?

0:20:300:20:33

Pisto.

0:20:330:20:35

I've got to be honest, it looks very similar to ratatouille to me.

0:20:350:20:40

It is. Every country has something similar.

0:20:400:20:43

Because a Spanish man is doing it, it makes it pisto and not French.

0:20:430:20:47

Nothing wrong with French. Some of them, yeah, but not all of them!

0:20:470:20:53

THEY LAUGH

0:20:530:20:55

-I love France.

-I love France and have huge friends there.

0:20:550:20:59

We just love it!

0:20:590:21:01

THEY LAUGH

0:21:010:21:02

-OK, so...

-You know.

-Careful what you say!

0:21:020:21:06

No, I love them. Don't get me wrong.

0:21:060:21:09

I love French cooking as well.

0:21:090:21:10

OK. That's sorted. We love France.

0:21:100:21:15

Leave it now! Let France go.

0:21:150:21:18

Anyway, we're going to start the courgette.

0:21:180:21:21

So the stem out, leave it there.

0:21:210:21:26

And I need some of the courgette.

0:21:260:21:29

If you don't have flowers,

0:21:290:21:31

because it's difficult to find it now, just cut them,

0:21:310:21:35

take the white piece out.

0:21:350:21:39

Then you can stuff with the pisto.

0:21:390:21:42

So you are stuffing the whole courgette instead of the flower.

0:21:420:21:46

Courgette flowers good this time of year, Dave, they coming through?

0:21:460:21:48

They're starting to come through from the greenhouse grown,

0:21:480:21:52

but within the next month to six weeks, you will start to see more.

0:21:520:21:55

-Seen those before?

-Yes, I didn't know you could eat them.

0:21:550:21:58

-Yeah, lovely.

-You learn something new every day.

0:21:580:22:01

Something new every day. Something about peas, we learned that Jose

0:22:010:22:04

-likes French people.

-Loves French people.

0:22:040:22:08

Change the conversation please!

0:22:080:22:10

The first time my mum saw that was, like,

0:22:100:22:13

"How can you take this one from the garden - no!"

0:22:130:22:16

They need to grow! And now she loves it.

0:22:170:22:20

Are we going to get some courgette into there?

0:22:200:22:22

Yeah. Some courgette there.

0:22:220:22:24

-So we have onion, courgette, aubergine.

-Garlic.

0:22:240:22:28

-And tomatoes?

-Yes.

0:22:280:22:30

-We are sweating it down.

-Salt and pepper.

0:22:300:22:33

What is interesting is the courgette that you've got with the flower,

0:22:330:22:36

-that's the female flower.

-OK.

0:22:360:22:39

On courgette plants, the males,

0:22:390:22:41

it's just a stalk with a double-sized flower

0:22:410:22:44

-and nothing else on it. So yes, you are eating a female.

-Amazing.

0:22:440:22:48

THEY LAUGH

0:22:480:22:52

Anyway...

0:22:540:22:56

Change the conversation now. Again.

0:22:560:22:58

That should be like this, yeah?

0:22:580:23:01

Slow cook, lovely colour.

0:23:010:23:04

So we have started off like this and sweated it down to this.

0:23:040:23:07

So we have ended up with ratatouille or pisto.

0:23:070:23:10

Then stuff it in the flower like that.

0:23:100:23:13

Oo-er.

0:23:150:23:16

So you can stuff courgette flowers with pretty much anything,

0:23:160:23:21

-a fish mousse, maybe some rice, risotto.

-Morcilla - black pudding.

0:23:210:23:26

Black pudding, there we go.

0:23:260:23:29

Anything else that's Spanish that we can stuff it with?

0:23:290:23:32

-You know brandada? Brandade in French.

-Like salt cod?

0:23:320:23:39

-Yeah.

-Salt cod, brandade.

0:23:390:23:42

Flower in egg... Like that.

0:23:420:23:46

And straight into the fryer.

0:23:470:23:50

So you've dipped the courgette flower into plain flour?

0:23:500:23:54

Yes, and egg.

0:23:540:23:55

I have one here already done, just in case.

0:23:550:23:59

-This is a kind of batter?

-Yes.

0:23:590:24:02

We call in Spain, a la Romana. Which means Roman-style.

0:24:020:24:07

-Romany-style.

-Yeah, I don't know why.

0:24:070:24:10

So in the Thermomix now, I have peas that have been blanched,

0:24:100:24:16

some mint and olive oil, and we are going to puree that together.

0:24:160:24:19

Stick in a good pinch of salt.

0:24:190:24:22

Turn it up.

0:24:250:24:27

BLENDER WHIRRS

0:24:270:24:29

Nice and loud.

0:24:340:24:35

Yeah.

0:24:370:24:38

That is looking good to me.

0:24:400:24:42

Just one more minute.

0:24:420:24:44

I didn't see you in Jose for a long time.

0:24:440:24:47

Do you know what, I was there the other day and I didn't call in.

0:24:470:24:49

Jose seems to be going from strength-to-strength.

0:24:490:24:52

And Bermondsey itself is an area in London, especially,

0:24:520:24:56

that's getting a reputation for some great food coming off.

0:24:560:24:59

-Great food.

-You have Maltby Street Market round the corner.

0:24:590:25:03

And then Restaurant Story.

0:25:030:25:05

You have Pizarro there.

0:25:050:25:07

No more Restaurant Story, Maltby, it's a shame.

0:25:070:25:10

But, yeah... It's the place to be, I have to say.

0:25:100:25:13

Bermondsey, very cool.

0:25:130:25:15

It's the people in Bermondsey. They make the area.

0:25:150:25:18

You live in Bermondsey?

0:25:180:25:20

Around Bermondsey.

0:25:200:25:22

HE LAUGHS

0:25:220:25:23

It's just the people there.

0:25:230:25:25

OK. Also, you're doing a bike ride, I understand?

0:25:250:25:28

Don't tell me that. Thank you for reminding me!

0:25:280:25:31

-420km.

-Wow!

0:25:310:25:35

-In India.

-Blimey.

0:25:350:25:38

In five days.

0:25:380:25:40

In five days?

0:25:400:25:42

Please, I didn't been on a bike for 25 years.

0:25:420:25:46

For 24 years?

0:25:460:25:48

-25.

-You don't look old enough, chief!

0:25:480:25:51

We might have to get you a bike with special padding on the seat.

0:25:510:25:55

-That's a lot of riding.

-I will need something, I'm telling you!

0:25:550:25:59

But it's amazing, it's for a good cause.

0:25:590:26:01

I was going to say, it's got to be for something, surely.

0:26:010:26:04

Raising money for Action Against Hunger.

0:26:040:26:07

I work a lot with them. Great people.

0:26:070:26:10

-The money will go to the charity, to the people, sorry, you know.

-Yes.

0:26:100:26:17

-Pea puree there.

-On to the plate.

0:26:180:26:22

-Yes.

-Cheese is cut.

0:26:220:26:24

So we have the deep-fried courgettes. They look beautiful.

0:26:240:26:27

That soft batter is beautiful.

0:26:270:26:29

It's stunning. It keeps all the humidity in, no, the moisture.

0:26:290:26:34

The moisture.

0:26:340:26:35

15 years living in UK,

0:26:350:26:39

London is my home and my English is still "getting there".

0:26:390:26:43

We're getting there, chef, let's get this plated up.

0:26:430:26:45

-Guys, come and have a taste. Come on over.

-Here.

0:26:450:26:49

Some Manchego.

0:26:490:26:50

We have pea herb, some pea cress.

0:26:500:26:52

-Yes.

-A little bit of seasoning.

0:26:520:26:55

-Finish with some mint oil.

-Wow.

0:26:550:27:00

So it's peas and mint, stuffed courgette flowers, there we go.

0:27:000:27:05

This is right up your street now.

0:27:050:27:07

Knives and forks down here.

0:27:070:27:09

There we go. Cutlery, get in there.

0:27:090:27:11

Loads of it in there.

0:27:110:27:13

Very seasonal. It's spring in one plate.

0:27:130:27:15

-Yeah. It looks really spring-like.

-It looks gorgeous.

0:27:150:27:19

-Get in there, guys.

-I'm going to.

0:27:190:27:21

That's stuffing of pisto, or ratatouille if you're French.

0:27:210:27:24

Oh, again!

0:27:240:27:26

-With pea puree, mushy peas.

-It's good?

-Heaven.

0:27:260:27:30

-Thank you very much.

-Love it?

0:27:300:27:32

-Can you come and do it at my house?

-Absolutely!

0:27:320:27:34

We are going to dip into the BBC food archive

0:27:340:27:36

for a trip to Nigel Slater, for some of his simple suppers.

0:27:360:27:40

First, he's going to make a rhubarb tart before roasting the leftovers

0:27:400:27:43

to go with pan-fried mackerel.

0:27:430:27:44

Some vegetables are easier to grow than others.

0:27:470:27:50

Rhubarb is a hardy plant that comes back every year,

0:27:500:27:54

a really useful thing to have in the kitchen.

0:27:540:27:57

Pull it off.

0:27:570:27:59

Anything that comes easily when you pull it, is fair game.

0:28:010:28:06

It's actually a good idea when you are picking rhubarb,

0:28:090:28:13

not to pick all the leaves on one plant

0:28:130:28:17

but to pick a couple from each one and then move on.

0:28:170:28:19

That way you don't weaken the plant.

0:28:210:28:24

Leftovers aren't just about what you have left.

0:28:240:28:27

The real art to making the most of them is planning ahead.

0:28:270:28:31

Today, I'm going to cook enough rhubarb to make sure

0:28:310:28:34

I have plenty for the week.

0:28:340:28:35

If I come back from the allotment or the bottom of the garden with

0:28:360:28:40

a load of rhubarb, then it's worth cooking it all at once.

0:28:400:28:44

It's very easy to think of rhubarb as something just to put in a crumble.

0:28:440:28:48

It's one of those incredibly versatile

0:28:480:28:51

and useful things to have around.

0:28:510:28:53

You don't do anything fancy with it,

0:28:550:28:57

just quite simply rhubarb, sugar and a little bit of water,

0:28:570:29:01

so you do get some juice.

0:29:010:29:04

I'm going to put it in the oven and leave it

0:29:040:29:06

until it's soft enough to take the point of a knife.

0:29:060:29:09

"Tonight, I'm cooking a rhubarb tart with mascarpone cream.

0:29:120:29:16

"For the base of my tart, all I need is some sweet puff pastry."

0:29:180:29:21

I love making pastry.

0:29:220:29:25

But I haven't got time for it always

0:29:250:29:26

and certainly not during the week, so I use frozen pastry.

0:29:260:29:29

If you buy the good stuff which has butter in it,

0:29:290:29:31

there's nothing wrong with it.

0:29:310:29:33

They have even rolled it out for you,

0:29:330:29:36

but I roll it again so it's even thinner.

0:29:360:29:39

"For each of your tarts, create a rectangle to sit

0:29:420:29:45

"your fruit in by using a knife to score the pastry.

0:29:450:29:48

"Then brush the juice from your roasted rhubarb around the edges

0:29:490:29:54

"to give the pastry a shine.

0:29:540:29:55

"Pop it into a hot oven, it will take about 20 minutes to cook,

0:29:570:30:01

"just in time to create its perfect companion."

0:30:010:30:04

I want something that has a creamy texture to go with

0:30:050:30:10

the crispness of the pastry and the quite sour fruit, but I also want it

0:30:100:30:14

to have that lovely vanilla flavour you get if you make your own custard.

0:30:140:30:18

So I'm going to make a custard flavoured cream.

0:30:180:30:23

"To do that, drop two tablespoons of sugar

0:30:240:30:27

"and a couple of egg yolks in a mixing bowl.

0:30:270:30:30

"Keep the whites for later."

0:30:300:30:32

To the eggs and sugar I am going to add some mascarpone,

0:30:420:30:46

It's just that cool, vanilla-y, creamy smell.

0:30:460:30:50

"And to provide a really deep flavour,

0:30:520:30:55

"add a few generous drops of vanilla extract."

0:30:550:30:58

It smells like cheesecake.

0:31:060:31:08

It's that smell of sugar and cream

0:31:080:31:10

and vanilla that smells like somebody is baking a gorgeous cheesecake.

0:31:100:31:14

"Then beat the egg whites from earlier until thick and fluffy

0:31:140:31:18

"and fold them into the cream.

0:31:180:31:20

"You can make plenty of this

0:31:200:31:21

"and keep it in the fridge for a couple of days.

0:31:210:31:23

"Perfect for cake, or these warm rhubarb tarts."

0:31:230:31:27

This really works for me because it is basically two ingredients,

0:31:270:31:31

pastry and rhubarb.

0:31:310:31:32

"The key to this dish is its simplicity, which makes it quick,

0:31:330:31:38

"easy and absolutely delicious."

0:31:380:31:40

At least once a week I make myself a little treat

0:31:490:31:51

and I really fancy some fish.

0:31:510:31:54

My favourite fish is the cheapest of them all, mackerel.

0:31:540:31:58

I love the colour, those beautiful shimmering blues and silvers,

0:31:580:32:02

but when you cook it, it gets smoky and the skin goes crisp.

0:32:020:32:06

For me, it's the biggest treat of all.

0:32:060:32:08

"The British Isles is abundant with mackerel,

0:32:120:32:15

"making it a cheap fish, and there is so much you can do with it.

0:32:150:32:19

"But for my dinner tonight,

0:32:210:32:22

"I'm cooking fried mackerel and roasted rhubarb.

0:32:220:32:25

"I usually just coat my mackerel with a little flour

0:32:280:32:31

"and lightly fry it with some oil and rosemary,

0:32:310:32:34

"but tonight I want to try something different.

0:32:340:32:37

"I'm combining it with rhubarb.

0:32:370:32:39

"It's not an obvious partner,

0:32:390:32:41

"but the strong flavours work really well together."

0:32:410:32:44

It's one of those ingredients, like gooseberries or lemon,

0:32:440:32:48

that is really sharp and it will cut the richness of the fish.

0:32:480:32:54

It does sound a bit strange, but it really works.

0:32:540:32:57

I am going to put a few capers in there, only because I love them

0:33:000:33:04

and I love that vinegary-ness of them.

0:33:040:33:06

PAN SIZZLES

0:33:090:33:12

I've got the sharp flavours, I feel I want something a bit mellow.

0:33:120:33:16

I want something quite rich to go in this, some sherry vinegar.

0:33:160:33:19

I'm going to put the tiniest little drop in.

0:33:210:33:26

Just a little bit.

0:33:260:33:29

There we are.

0:33:290:33:30

I'm going to put some rhubarb juice in here,

0:33:450:33:49

just so I can dissolve all the crusty bits on the pan,

0:33:490:33:52

all the bits that have caught from the skin.

0:33:520:33:55

And...

0:33:550:33:56

Where all that flavour is.

0:33:570:33:59

It's not a sauce, it's just the juices from the pan.

0:34:010:34:04

"Sweet and savoury, absolutely delicious and a cheap midweek treat."

0:34:120:34:17

Thank you very much, Nigel.

0:34:240:34:25

And if you've never tried mackerel and rhubarb together,

0:34:250:34:29

it is beautiful, you must do it, it is absolutely fantastic.

0:34:290:34:32

Throughout this series we are showcasing some key, seasonal,

0:34:320:34:36

spring ingredients that are at their absolute best at this time of year.

0:34:360:34:40

Today I am doing a recipe with crab, cucumber, apples and spring onions.

0:34:400:34:45

I've got Jose to give me a hand.

0:34:450:34:46

I need you to make me some pasta dough, chief, so let's get going.

0:34:460:34:50

-Thank you.

-OK. I am doing crab ravioli,

0:34:500:34:54

and we are using some cucumber

0:34:540:34:57

and it will be in the crab as a stuffing to got with some apple,

0:34:570:35:02

little bit of lemon,

0:35:020:35:03

and we are doing a dressing using cloudy apple juice.

0:35:030:35:07

Amazing.

0:35:070:35:08

This apple juice works so well with crabs, apple is brilliant.

0:35:080:35:12

It contains almost a natural sweetness and acidity together,

0:35:120:35:16

-and it goes very well with fish, really, really well.

-Jammy.

0:35:160:35:20

Exactly, jammy. The apple juice is on, into a pan,

0:35:200:35:23

and we're going to reduce it down over quite a high heat

0:35:230:35:26

and bring it to a caramel,

0:35:260:35:27

so it gets that mixture of...that kind of sweetness of a caramel,

0:35:270:35:30

but still a little bit of the acidity of the apple

0:35:300:35:33

that comes through.

0:35:330:35:34

Cucumbers - cucumbers, Dave? They're quintessentially English.

0:35:340:35:38

Any reason why we love them so much in this country?

0:35:380:35:41

I think, historically,

0:35:410:35:42

it's afternoon tea, isn't it? It's high tea.

0:35:420:35:44

That's where cucumbers were always popping their head up.

0:35:440:35:47

But greenhouse-grown cucumbers are now starting to come into season,

0:35:470:35:52

then in about two months' time, all of a sudden,

0:35:520:35:54

because the sun's really got going,

0:35:540:35:56

everyone's really starting to grow cucumbers in their back garden

0:35:560:35:59

and on commercial plots.

0:35:590:36:01

And they're easy to grow.

0:36:010:36:02

They are, they're really easy, actually.

0:36:020:36:04

As long as you keep them well-watered,

0:36:040:36:06

they'll just keep on going.

0:36:060:36:08

But at the moment, there seems to be a modern sensation -

0:36:080:36:11

you can get these real tiny cucumbers now,

0:36:110:36:14

which are coming on the market.

0:36:140:36:16

-Cucamelons.

-Exactly.

0:36:160:36:18

They're fantastic, actually -

0:36:180:36:19

they look like tiny little watermelons and they taste beautiful.

0:36:190:36:22

OK, so, I've got a cucumber that's diced

0:36:220:36:25

and I've got a Granny Smith apple -

0:36:250:36:27

Granny Smith apples are really high in acidity

0:36:270:36:29

and I'm just going to grate that.

0:36:290:36:30

I'm coming with the biggest tray in the world.

0:36:300:36:33

The biggest tray in the world - stick that down in front of you.

0:36:330:36:36

You've made pasta dough - this is...

0:36:360:36:38

Actually, it turns out that Jose, as a 25-year-old...

0:36:380:36:42

this is the first time that, as a Spanish chef,

0:36:420:36:45

he's actually ever made an Italian dish, ever made a pasta dish.

0:36:450:36:48

I did it in school, but not really, like...

0:36:480:36:52

If it doesn't work very well, Amanda, I'm very sorry.

0:36:520:36:55

-We'll blame the Spanish guy.

-Yeah, blame the Spanish.

0:36:550:36:57

There's nothing wrong with Italian.

0:36:570:36:59

LAUGHTER

0:36:590:37:01

-You love Italians as well, it's fine.

-I love Italian people.

0:37:010:37:05

In my restaurant, my Spanish restaurant,

0:37:050:37:07

I have a few Italians working there.

0:37:070:37:09

-There you go.

-In Pizarro, yeah.

0:37:090:37:12

I think you're getting yourself into a lot of trouble at the minute.

0:37:120:37:15

I know. I'm going to be like this..."argh!"

0:37:150:37:18

OK, so, listen, what I've got here is some cucumber, some apple

0:37:180:37:21

and some lemon, just the zest of the lemon, and I've salted it.

0:37:210:37:25

Now...

0:37:250:37:27

You salt it, cos what it does

0:37:270:37:28

is it draws the moisture from the vegetables,

0:37:280:37:30

which then means, when you put it into a stuffing,

0:37:300:37:33

it means your ravioli isn't actually going to be really soggy,

0:37:330:37:36

so all the water's already been drawn out.

0:37:360:37:38

Now, I've just squeezed it out with a cloth

0:37:380:37:40

and I'm going to put this into a bowl.

0:37:400:37:42

Then into that...we're going to mix in some beautiful,

0:37:420:37:48

fresh white crab meat.

0:37:480:37:50

-You a big crab fan?

-Yeah, I love crab.

-Good, good.

0:37:500:37:53

I wish...I'm actually one of these tricky people

0:37:530:37:57

-that has an allergy and I can't eat shellfish.

-Really?

0:37:570:37:59

So I have a wonderful, trusty sidekick -

0:37:590:38:02

very similar to the beautiful Debbie McGee,

0:38:020:38:05

except it is Jose Pizarro - who's going to taste this for me,

0:38:050:38:09

and let me know if it's seasoned OK and how we're getting on.

0:38:090:38:11

If you can let me know if that's OK...

0:38:110:38:13

It's OK?

0:38:160:38:17

Thanks, Debbie. All right then.

0:38:170:38:19

-I love it.

-I'm just going to dust...

0:38:190:38:21

..dust my board, and we're going to get...

0:38:230:38:25

..a little bit of the pasta dough. This is the pasta dough Jose's made.

0:38:260:38:30

We've rolled it through a pasta machine.

0:38:300:38:32

I'm just going to cut it into squares.

0:38:320:38:34

Then the crab filling is mixed with the cucumber and that apple.

0:38:360:38:42

Just going to pile into the middle.

0:38:420:38:44

Jose's actually searing up...

0:38:440:38:47

..some spring onions for me, to get a beautiful texture

0:38:500:38:53

and taste going on in the inside to give it a very, very nice,

0:38:530:38:57

an amazing toasted onion kind of flavour,

0:38:570:39:00

that almost bittersweet, burnt flavour that comes from it.

0:39:000:39:03

-The smell is just unbelievable.

-OK.

0:39:030:39:07

Now, to seal the ravioli,

0:39:070:39:09

I'm just brushing the outside of it with water, rather than egg yolk.

0:39:090:39:12

A lot of chefs would do egg yolks, but I'm going to use water.

0:39:120:39:15

Why is that? Why do you use water instead of egg?

0:39:150:39:18

It doesn't add anything to the dish - if you use egg yolk,

0:39:180:39:20

it's another layer of something that cooks.

0:39:200:39:22

The water will just stick - water and flour together,

0:39:220:39:24

it acts like glue, so what it'll do is it'll just stick together.

0:39:240:39:28

-That's a good tip.

-Yeah.

0:39:280:39:29

-And then...

-My friend, this smells lovely.

0:39:290:39:32

It does smell absolutely delicious. It does smell fantastic.

0:39:320:39:36

You've got the apple juice coming down -

0:39:360:39:38

-keep an eye on it, chef, don't let it burn.

-Absolutely.

0:39:380:39:40

Don't let it burn.

0:39:400:39:42

The trick with the ravioli

0:39:420:39:43

is to try and get all of the air out of the ravioli,

0:39:430:39:49

cos otherwise, when you try poaching it,

0:39:490:39:53

the air will expand and your ravioli will burst,

0:39:530:39:56

which isn't...a great start.

0:39:560:39:58

You spend all that time making pasta dough,

0:39:580:40:00

and then you burst your ravioli - it's not what you want.

0:40:000:40:03

OK. So, cut around the ravioli, and then,

0:40:030:40:08

kind of seal around the edges with your hands, like that,

0:40:080:40:13

and then...you spend the rest of the afternoon making a load more.

0:40:130:40:17

-Yes.

-And then we'll stick 'em into the fridge to rest.

0:40:170:40:21

Like with all pasta products and all flour things, pastries,

0:40:230:40:30

you need them to rest,

0:40:300:40:31

so I'm just going to drop a couple of these raviolis

0:40:310:40:33

into boiling, salted water.

0:40:330:40:35

Dust them with a little flour, sit them on a bit of clingfilm,

0:40:350:40:38

and they'll sit fine. We'll leave them there.

0:40:380:40:40

Now, into - where have you gone with my cloth, Jose?

0:40:400:40:43

OK - thank you very much, chef.

0:40:430:40:46

Into the apple reduction,

0:40:460:40:48

we are going to put some toasted nigella seeds.

0:40:480:40:52

Nigella seeds are like onion seeds, basically,

0:40:520:40:54

so they have this beautiful, bitter flavour.

0:40:540:40:56

You can drop them into there, and then whisk into that...

0:40:560:40:59

Put 'em all in, chef, put 'em all in.

0:40:590:41:01

Whisk into that a little of the English rapeseed oil.

0:41:010:41:03

English rapeseed oil is absolutely fantastic. It tastes great,

0:41:030:41:06

but it has that kind of dark, lovely flavour

0:41:060:41:09

that goes very well with spring onions.

0:41:090:41:11

Spring onions, Dave - are they called spring onions

0:41:110:41:14

because of the season?

0:41:140:41:15

Basically, yes, they are - it's exactly the right time of year now.

0:41:150:41:18

To start them off, you'd actually grown them under a canopy,

0:41:180:41:22

huge sheets across fields,

0:41:220:41:24

just to create a small microclimate to warm the ground up.

0:41:240:41:27

But when they actually emerge out of the ground,

0:41:270:41:29

they are literally folded over on themselves,

0:41:290:41:32

and the spring term actually comes from -

0:41:320:41:34

-they pop up out of the ground and stand to attention.

-Amazing.

0:41:340:41:38

So they actually...they spring...?

0:41:380:41:40

Literally, they emerge from the ground doubled up in half,

0:41:400:41:43

then they literally just pop up.

0:41:430:41:45

Do they make a noise? "Doooing!"

0:41:450:41:47

-I just like the idea of that, I like the idea.

-That would be quality.

0:41:470:41:50

-That would be really quality.

-Maybe they do and we don't know.

0:41:500:41:54

These raviolis, the pasta is just being cooked,

0:41:540:41:57

it's been in for about a minute and a half.

0:41:570:41:59

The crab will be cooked - it's already cooked,

0:41:590:42:02

we've just heated it through.

0:42:020:42:04

-Just going to drain it. Spring onions are cooked.

-Yeah.

0:42:040:42:06

That looks fantastic. Season this up with a little bit of salt.

0:42:060:42:10

Pinch of pepper.

0:42:100:42:11

And then some chopped chives go on the top, like that.

0:42:130:42:17

Then we're going to plate these up...

0:42:170:42:20

-Thank you, Jose.

-The smell is amazing.

0:42:200:42:22

What Jose's done is seared off the spring onions

0:42:220:42:24

and mixed them in with the apple juice dressing.

0:42:240:42:26

So apple juice, rapeseed oil and nigella seeds.

0:42:260:42:29

The crab raviolis go into the bowl.

0:42:290:42:32

They've just been drained.

0:42:330:42:35

And then - thank you very much, thank you -

0:42:350:42:39

then we're just going, on the top, we're just going to dress it

0:42:390:42:43

with a little bit of the spring onions

0:42:430:42:45

and nigella seeds and the apple.

0:42:450:42:47

-Guys, come and try this. Come on...

-Coming over.

0:42:470:42:50

Amanda was leaning over, getting desperate to come and eat it.

0:42:500:42:54

We've got more knives and forks, we've got plenty there.

0:42:540:42:58

-Get in there.

-I want to try that one, please.

0:42:580:43:02

That sauce looks amazing. Just looks just so...

0:43:020:43:06

-Oh!

-The smell, the flavour - you can smell that spring onion.

0:43:060:43:10

I think that adds to the crab, doesn't it?

0:43:100:43:12

-Like we say, it's the spring.

-It's the spring, it's the spring.

0:43:120:43:15

"That's like we say, it's the spring"

0:43:150:43:17

-Mmm!

-Heavenly.

-It really is.

0:43:170:43:19

Well, that's all from us on Spring Kitchen -

0:43:190:43:22

a massive thank you to Jose Pizarro, Dave Finkle and Amanda Abbington.

0:43:220:43:26

And of course, the great Nathan Outlaw.

0:43:260:43:28

All of today's recipes are on the website.

0:43:280:43:30

Please go to bbc.co.uk/springkitchen.

0:43:300:43:35

Thanks very much for watching

0:43:350:43:37

and we'll see you next time - bye-bye.

0:43:370:43:39

Bye!

0:43:390:43:40

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