Letter P The A to Z of TV Cooking


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We've got dishes from your favourite TV chefs,

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and we're serving them up alphabetically

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here on The A-Z Of TV Cooking.

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Today we're looking at things linked by the letter P,

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and here's just some of what's on the menu.

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The ripe stuff - Michel Roux on how to pick out the perfect pear.

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I apply pressure with my thumb. Just should give a little bit

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as you push down with your thumb.

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We've got Chinese-style pork with Ching-He Huang,

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and a plum choice with Nigel Slater's plum-pudding cake.

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Of all of the fruits, I think that members of the plum family

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take best to spices.

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Have you ever been on holiday and been wowed by a wonderful paella,

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and wondered, when you got home, how to recreate it?

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Well, wonder no more, because here to assist us,

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los Motociclistas Peludos!

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That's my brilliant Spanish for the Hairy Bikers.

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Today in the Best Of British kitchen,

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we're going to cook up a holiday classic

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that's become a British favourite, and it's guaranteed to transport you to sunnier climes!

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(TAPS SPOONS CASTANET-STYLE)

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Ole! # Oh, we are off to sunny Spain

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# We're gonna make paella #

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And this, ladies and gentlemen, is a paella pan,

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and that's what we're going to make... Paella. ..in.

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Actually, a paella is a pan. It's not a dish.

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And the word "paella" comes for the Roman for pan.

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This delicious paella is easy to do,

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and packed full of flavour and colour -

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succulent chicken, tasty mussels, perfect prawns and plump rice,

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all spiced up with paprika and saffron.

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Now, I'm just going to put some oil in the pan,

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because that's a very good place to start.

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Now, our paella, we try to do quite a generic recipe,

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the sort of thing you would have tasted on your holidays,

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you wanted to make it when you come home,

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and has all the elements without becoming a pan of confusion.

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A confused paella is not a good way to approach said dish.

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No. You want a dish, not a pan of mud, as is so often seen.

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Now, what I'm going to do is season these lovely boned chicken thighs.

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(SINGS TUNE) Hello! Smiling sausage!

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We've got to eat that, man!

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It's all right. I kept my tongue in my beard.

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This is chorizo,

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and this is a cooking chorizo. That's one that needs cooking,

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and it's the best type to use for paella.

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I'm just going to cut this into slices.

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What's lovely about that, and you'll see when we cook it,

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it leeches this wonderful paprika kind of fat that's deep red.

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Oh, it's lovely. But the paella is this combination

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of chicken, chorizo, saffron, rice, vegetables,

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prawns, mussels, or it can be whatever you want. It can be clams.

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Funnily enough, they say the paella originated in Valencia in Spain.

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But we know that the first paellas were made with predominantly rabbit,

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because that was what poor folk ate, and as time went on,

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you realise, "I can put this in. Rice will be brilliant."

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Rice is a great flavour carrier. "I can put duck in. Brilliant!"

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"I can put chicken, prawns... It'll be brilliant!"

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You can put what you want in, really.

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I'm going to put this chicken in first.

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Once the chicken is nicely browned, pop in the chopped chorizo.

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Kind of half the trick to this

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is the smokiness of the paprika leeching to that oil.

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And that oil is what we turn the rice and the vegetables into,

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and it... Oh, the flavour just goes on and on! Awesome.

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After a few minutes, use a slotted spoon

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to lift the chicken and chorizo into a bowl

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and put it aside for later.

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Next, chop an onion and sweat it in the lovely paprika-infused oil.

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The lovely thing is, when you cook something like this,

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you've experienced when you've been abroad, it takes you back there.

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Once they're tender and lightly browned,

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add a tablespoon of olive oil, a chopped red pepper

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and some green beans.

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You're getting very hungry, aren't you?

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I know I am. I tell you what,

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I've just seen Mrs Migginses' arm come out of...

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Stop, Mrs Miggins! Just wait! Wait, will you?

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Now, you can't have paella, or anything Spanish or "foreign",

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as my dad would call it, without garlic!

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Garlic! My dad was a disaster with food.

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Was he? He refused to eat tinned chicken soup

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because, he said, "It's full of garlic!"

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I thought... Dreadful. Spaghetti? "Comes in tins."

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THEY LAUGH I remember my first paella.

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It was one of those Vestas. Do you remember those?

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Oh, yes! You put water on, and you had a meal!

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And you used to feel so exotic. Their paella was luminous.

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You could see it from Mars.

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Little did I know that that was the first tentative steps

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that have brought me to where I am here. Where's that?

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In the kitchen? The pinnacle of culinary culinariness.

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Stir in three cloves of finely grated garlic,

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and a heaped teaspoon of a secret ingredient - smoked paprika.

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It gives it, like, a wonderful outdoor barbecue sense to it.

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It did say "heaped teaspoon", didn't it? Yes!

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Does now! I love this stuff. It's great.

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Oh, and then it just smells fantastic!

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Saffron. I love saffron. He's not keen.

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I'm not. More expensive than gold, but you don't need much.

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You don't. Uno pincho.

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Two pincho. That'll do!

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HE WHISPERS And a bay leaf.

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The smells, mind... I wish you could smell this at home.

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It's so lovely. But all this really is just the dressing for the rice.

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Absolutely. The time has come?

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Mm. Bring out the rice.

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Add 250 grams of paella rice, and stir it around the pan

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until it's glistening with paprika-infused-oil loveliness.

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Then the chicken and chorizo needs to go back in

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along with any of the juices that have collected in the bowl.

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And now the liquid. We're using chicken stock.

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But you can do a vegetarian paella.

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Obviously use vegetable stock and vegetables.

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You can do a fish paella. Use fish stock.

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But, you know, for this one, chicken stock.

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You'll need about 900 mil of the stock, made with one stock cube,

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and let it simmer away over a medium heat for about 12 minutes,

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stirring occasionally.

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Well, 12 minutes, and the rice has started to grow.

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I think it may be time for the mussels, don't you?

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Aye. Go on, get 'em flexed.

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'Scatter 500 to 750 grams of well scrubbed live mussels

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'on top of the paella. Make sure the beards have been removed,

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'and that they're well tucked into the hot rice and steaming liquid.'

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Then cover with tinfoil to allow them

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to steam in all the lovely aromas for five minutes,

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on a fairly high heat. Wait for the mussels to open,

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and discard any that don't.

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Will you look? They're all open. So we give it one last stir,

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then from this point on, we don't kind of mess with it, do we? No.

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Time for the prawns. Heads first into the centre.

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I think so, yeah. Like morris-dancing prawns.

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THEY LAUGH When those have gone pink,

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your paella is done.

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Fancy a cerveza? I do, thanks!

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Smashing!

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Reduce the heat slightly, and cook for a further six to eight minutes,

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leaving you time to perfect your Spanish.

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FEMALE VOICE SPEAKING SPANISH

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'But do remember to turn the prawns halfway through.'

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Right. May the spirit of Torremolinos be upon us.

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DAVE LAUGHS Now, that is as pretty as a picture.

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It is as pretty as a paella. All we need now is parsley sprinkles,

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and a kind of daintily placed lemon wedge.

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I'm wedging. I'm sprinkling.

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Are you dancing? I'm asking.

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THEY LAUGH

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Oh...

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Look at that! Yes.

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Now, in true tradition of this wonderful dish,

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I'll have that half...

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I'll have that half. Yeah. It's quite easy to "demarc", this one.

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Do you know what people used to do?

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It was very handy that the paella pan was round,

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and the big ones made a perfectly functional table,

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so you would actually sit around the paella pan

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and you'd get a fork, and you'd go...

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"That's my section."

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And people eating the paella would stick to their own turf.

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That's mine. That's yours.

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That's mine. Don't... Don't transgress.

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I'm not. You are.

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It's all about the rice in a paella.

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Try the chicken. That's been poached in all that paprika.

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Chorizo...

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That is fabulous. Isn't it?

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It's got everything a paella should have -

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taste, colour, variety,

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and it's got holiday spirit!

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Thankfully, being British, we don't have to get on a plane

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to taste authentic Mediterranean food.

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All the ingredients are readily available,

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so you can cook up this fantastic food at home.

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Now Michel Roux tracks down the perfect pear in Kent.

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I like my pears with a little crunch,

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but with lots of juice, and sweet and sticky.

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But that's the biggest problem - knowing when the pear is ripe.

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Pears are a complex fruit.

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They can be happily cold-stored for up to ten months.

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However, controlling when they ripen

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is something that we've traditionally left to chance.

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'But there's one fruit-farmer in Kent who's going that extra mile

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'to produce the perfect pear.'

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Clive Baxter grows over a thousand tons of pears each year.

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He's gone out on a limb, investing huge sums in new technology,

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to create a room where he can control the ripening process.

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'And he's about to let me into his secret.'

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So, it's...it's similar to a cold store,

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except that in this case we're actually putting warm air in,

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and then the air is sent over... above this ceiling,

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and it's forced down through the actual pallets of fruit,

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and then it's taken back up through the centre there.

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Then it's sucked up through here, so there's a circular motion.

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It's forced air. But it doesn't feel that warm in here,

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but obviously warm enough just to ripen them up slowly. Yes.

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As you probably know, when you put your normal pear in a fruit bowl,

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you have a very firm pear, quite often.

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Then, maybe for a day, you have the perfect pear,

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and then, very quickly after that, it's completely gone,

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and it just falls apart. The perfectly ripened pears out of here,

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they still stay firm but ripe for several days,

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whereas a standard pear that just ripens in your house does not.

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This method of warming fruit has its origins

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in the ready-to-eat ripe-avocado system,

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developed in Norfolk.

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How would you look for ripeness in a pear?

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I apply pressure with my thumb.

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It should just give a little bit as you push down with your thumb.

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Regardless of the colour? Regardless of the colour.

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After just a couple of days in the warming room,

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Clive's pears are sent straight to the supermarket.

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So, Clive, how has this helped your business?

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It's very popular with the customers. Generally in the UK,

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pear sales are quite flat. Perfectly ripe pear sales are increasing,

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and you can see why when you start to eat these pears.

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So it's been well received by the public,

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even though they have to pay a couple of pennies more,

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because they've got a perfectly ripe and really tasty product

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at the end of it. Yeah. It's like anything else.

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People go to your restaurant because you do something a bit different

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than the ordinary, and in the same way,

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if you're getting something that genuinely tastes that much nicer,

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most people are willing to pay a bit more money for it. Good!

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It's great to meet someone who's so passionate

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about growing pears,

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but not just that - prepared to go that extra mile

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to deliver ripe and beautiful British pears.

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Perhaps we are already on the cusp of the pear revival.

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From pears to a great Chinese pork dish

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cooked by Ching-He Huang and her fireman friend, Robbie.

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I know we had a problem. Yes. ?1.25...

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Yes. Work to a budget. ..was the budget per head,

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and I've come up with a traditional Chinese recipe

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that's going to hopefully excite your guys, but remain within budget. OK.

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It's called fragrant pork. Great.

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I've got here aubergine. We want to get this on first,

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so I'm just going to slice that in half.

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Do you cook with aubergine much? Yes, we have done.

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We've used it in moussaka at work.

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So, are you the only guy that cooks?

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No, no. We all have to take it in turns to cook,

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so we do have good cooks and bad cooks.

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Are you the guy in demand, right? I buy everything in.

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I buy everything in. I tell 'em what they're cooking.

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You boss them around? Yes, especially in the kitchen.

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OK. So, wok nice and hot, smoking,

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and then in with the aubergines.

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Just let that sizzle, and then I'm just going to create a bit of steam

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to help cook. They don't need that much oil.

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That'll absorb into the aubergine, will it? Yeah, it will.

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You see, at this stage, if you do get called out,

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just turn it off and then go out. You're not going to ruin the dish,

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and it's like that throughout the whole cooking process.

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You can put it to one side? Well, that's great.

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This is lovely and brown, OK,

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so we're just going to put that to one side.

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And then I've got some garlic-ginger chilli.

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Garlic, ginger and chilli are the holy trinity of Chinese cookery,

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the flavour foundation of countless dishes.

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Just going to fry them for a couple of seconds

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to release their aroma. Would you pass me the minced pork, as well?

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Thanks. OK.

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So, as the meat starts to brown,

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the Chinese...we love adding a little bit of Shaoxing wine. OK.

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In this case I've got dry sherry, cos you're likely to have this in your store cupboard. Yeah.

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If not, get some, cos when you cook meat,

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and you add that, it just adds a little bit of sweetness,

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and it takes off the xing wei.

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What's xing wei? Xing wei? It's sort of like this rawness

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of ingredients. You know, meats sometimes have an odour,

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or fish has an odour. Yeah.

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Now, at this stage I'm going to add some chilli-bean sauce.

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You can dip your finger in there, have a taste.

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Mind, it's very spicy.

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Yeah. Yeah?

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How spicy do you like your food? About a tablespoon? Yeah.

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Now, at this stage, back in with the aubergine. OK.

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Mix this together well, then... got some stock.

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Is that just chicken, or... Yeah, that's chicken stock,

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or you can use vegetable stock. I'm going to bring this to the boil.

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Great. So, next we've got some pak choi.

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Yeah. You can use Chinese leaf if you want to.

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Just going to slice this. Just roughly chopped?

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Yeah, just roughly chopped. You know you can eat these raw? Can you?

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Go on, take a bit of the leaf. I love them. Great for salad.

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Chinese don't really like to eat raw vegetables,

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but it's great. Nice.

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Tasty, isn't it? Very. Almost sweet, and peppery at the same time.

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Yeah. You get that pepper just at the end.

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Delicious. Good for you.

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Nearly there. Making me hungry now.

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Well, this is all yours. This is quite spicy.

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We got a little bit of seasoning now, OK?

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Add some cider vinegar to cut through the heat.

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And then a little bit of sesame oil, a couple of splashes.

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Next, some cornflour to thicken the sauce.

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Literally it's a couple of seconds. Can you see?

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It's just starting to thicken now.

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And finally, some chopped spring onions for freshness and bite.

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If you've got any vegetarians... Yeah. ..in your watch,

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just use aubergines and vegetables and mushrooms.

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You can leave the pork out. Just add what you want?

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Yeah, just add what you want,

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just as long as you follow the basic seasoning steps. That's it.

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And then, beautiful, ready to plate up,

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and that was all for ?1.25 per head. Brilliant.

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Can I get a pat on the back? You can. Well done.

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So, my fragrant pork hits Robbie's budget mark at ?1.25 per head.

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It's perfect for anyone with a busy life,

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as the cooking can be stopped and started at any stage

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without affecting the final dish.

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How is it? Delicious.

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Bit fiery. Just a little bit, but it'll be fine.

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Really good.

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So, we're now going to look at a recipe using pheasant,

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which is as bird which, as you will see,

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Clarissa from The Two Fat Ladies absolutely loathes in the wild,

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but loves on a plate.

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I'm making pheasant and pickled-walnut terrine.

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You may think that game is for the rich, the idle and the aristo,

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but you'd be wrong. Game is lean, fat-free if you must,

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delicious, more importantly,

0:18:430:18:45

and you can even buy it in supermarkets these days.

0:18:450:18:48

And what I'm doing at the moment is,

0:18:480:18:51

I'm lining this terrine with streaky bacon.

0:18:510:18:55

It's actually, as you can see,

0:18:560:18:59

not so much a terrine as a loaf tin,

0:18:590:19:02

but that's fine. And what I'm doing is,

0:19:020:19:04

I'm just flattening out the bacon a little bit,

0:19:040:19:07

so that it'll go better round the tin.

0:19:070:19:10

I love pheasant. I've have a lot of access to pheasant in my life.

0:19:100:19:14

You did. You, um, farmed them, didn't you?

0:19:140:19:17

Actually looked after them? Yes, I managed a pheasant farm

0:19:170:19:21

and cooked at the same time.

0:19:210:19:23

Er, we had 25,000 pheasants. Heavens!

0:19:230:19:28

And don't the fluffy-bunny brigade ever tell you

0:19:280:19:31

that they're dear, sweet creatures.

0:19:310:19:33

They're one of God's nastiest animals.

0:19:330:19:36

They come out of the egg trying to peck each other's eyes out.

0:19:360:19:41

They are a very nasty bird indeed.

0:19:410:19:43

But they do have the advantage of tasting delicious.

0:19:430:19:47

They must be hung.

0:19:470:19:50

You can't, as you can with grouse or partridge,

0:19:500:19:54

take it straight off the moor and cook it.

0:19:540:19:57

A pheasant that isn't hung has no flavour whatsoever.

0:19:570:20:00

None, and rather dry. Yep.

0:20:000:20:03

And like Jennifer's rabbit,

0:20:030:20:05

pheasant has no real fat in it, so you have to add some fat,

0:20:050:20:10

and that is why the bacon for this terrine,

0:20:100:20:13

because it will lubricate it and make it moist,

0:20:130:20:15

apart from the fact that if you use good bacon,

0:20:150:20:18

it'll taste delicious.

0:20:180:20:20

So I've now lined this tin, and then you put in the pheasant.

0:20:200:20:24

This is the meat from a whole pheasant.

0:20:240:20:26

Cut it into strips, both the white meat and the dark meat.

0:20:260:20:31

And I've had it marinating overnight in red vermouth.

0:20:310:20:36

And pack it in well. There's an amazing amount of meat on a pheasant.

0:20:390:20:43

People are constantly surprised.

0:20:430:20:46

Now that I've half-filled this terrine,

0:20:460:20:49

I'm going to put in a layer of pickled walnuts.

0:20:490:20:54

I hope they're not the disgusting heavily vinegared ones

0:20:540:20:57

you get in pubs. I don't like that taste. Oh, God forbid, Jennifer!

0:20:570:21:01

No, look! Lovely little things. My own green walnuts.

0:21:010:21:05

That's terrific. Picked in the garden this morning,

0:21:050:21:08

which I shall pickle in due course. I brought them along just to show you.

0:21:080:21:11

Very proud-making. Very proud-making, yes.

0:21:110:21:14

Anyway, here are some I did earlier, like last year, you know?

0:21:140:21:18

They look wonderful. And you just slice them,

0:21:180:21:21

not too thinly. Don't need to be painstaking.

0:21:210:21:25

You can buy them in any good delicatessen,

0:21:250:21:28

and they are lovely things. You can add them to anything.

0:21:280:21:32

You can add them to beef stew very easily.

0:21:320:21:35

They give a good colour to it, and a nice flavour.

0:21:350:21:38

You're flouring your rabbit that way. That's a very good way of doing it.

0:21:380:21:42

It's the only way. It's terrible, that putting it out on a basin

0:21:420:21:46

and dib-dabbing on, and everything gets sort of soggy.

0:21:460:21:49

And spend half an hour scrubbing it off the kitchen table afterwards.

0:21:490:21:53

There we are. Now I'm going to put the other half of this pheasant on

0:21:530:21:56

and fill it up to the top.

0:21:560:21:59

So now I've filled up the terrine,

0:22:020:22:04

and I'm just going to cover it with some more pieces of bacon.

0:22:040:22:09

You see how really simple... Everyone thinks terrines are so complicated.

0:22:120:22:17

They're terribly easy.

0:22:170:22:19

So, there we are. I'm just going to put it in a bain-marie

0:22:210:22:25

and put it in the oven. A bain-marie, "Mary's bath".

0:22:250:22:28

Everybody thinks it's something terribly mystical and wonderful,

0:22:280:22:31

but it's actually just any old pan with some water in the bottom of it,

0:22:310:22:35

and it's just so that the bottom of what you're cooking doesn't burn.

0:22:350:22:39

It steams a little, as well, which helps the cooking process.

0:22:390:22:43

Whoops!

0:22:430:22:45

There we are.

0:22:490:22:51

Splendid for lunch with a salad, or as a starter.

0:22:530:22:57

BAGPIPE MUSIC

0:22:570:22:59

Now another bird recipe, and this time the P is for partridge.

0:23:010:23:05

Your chef here is Valentine Warner,

0:23:050:23:07

and he's adding to this dish a spicy mixture

0:23:070:23:10

called ras el hanout.

0:23:100:23:12

'You can buy ras el hanout ready made,

0:23:120:23:15

'but for me there's nothing more satisfying than doing it yourself,

0:23:150:23:19

'so I'm heading back to my flat to get grinding.'

0:23:190:23:22

Ras el hanout translates as "top-drawer" or "top-notch",

0:23:220:23:25

so this is a super-special mix.

0:23:250:23:28

'Every recipe for ras el hanout is different.

0:23:280:23:31

'Some are reputed to have as many as 60 different ingredients,

0:23:310:23:35

'but the common version must include a combination of cinnamon,

0:23:350:23:39

'turmeric, cumin, coriander and pepper.

0:23:390:23:42

'To my version I'm adding some rose petals, saffron and cayenne.'

0:23:420:23:46

This is obviously a coffee grinder,

0:23:460:23:50

but it's very good for grinding up the spices.

0:23:500:23:53

I like doing things the old way,

0:23:530:23:56

but you can also buy automated spice grinders

0:23:560:23:59

which make life easier. I like to work for my ras el hanout.

0:23:590:24:04

See what's going on here. It smells amazing,

0:24:040:24:07

rosy and nuts and chocolate and... Fantastic.

0:24:070:24:13

Partridges are really one of my favourite all-time autumn meats,

0:24:150:24:20

delicious, plump, fantastic and tasty.

0:24:200:24:23

And combined with the ras el hanout,

0:24:230:24:26

they really make for a tremendously good dish.

0:24:260:24:29

So, one heaped teaspoon per bird of the ras el hanout.

0:24:290:24:34

Twist them around. Look how happy they look.

0:24:340:24:36

They're having a great time, like children in the sandpit.

0:24:360:24:40

Take one good, hard red onion

0:24:400:24:43

and chop it really, really, really small.

0:24:430:24:46

Big fat chunks won't do, the point being that as the partridge cooks,

0:24:460:24:50

which is not for too long, by the time it's all ready,

0:24:500:24:53

the onion is totally cooked through and soft.

0:24:530:24:55

One good fat clove of garlic, chopped into virtual nonexistence.

0:24:550:25:02

That's quite enough chopping for one day.

0:25:020:25:05

Now, the rest is just dead simple.

0:25:050:25:07

This is the tagine. It's commonly mistaken

0:25:080:25:11

that the tagine is the name of the food.

0:25:110:25:14

It's actually the name of the dish. Take your onion and garlic

0:25:140:25:17

and scatter it over the bottom.

0:25:170:25:19

Now a big, generous handful of...

0:25:190:25:24

Mmm! Golden sultanas. Yum!

0:25:250:25:27

Now, this is ghee, used a lot in Indian cookery,

0:25:270:25:30

and it's widely available in a lot of shops all across the UK.

0:25:300:25:34

It's butter with attitude.

0:25:340:25:37

And now our little fat partridges are going to come and rest.

0:25:370:25:41

Pretty snug, I'd say. Gather up the rest of your mix.

0:25:410:25:44

This is good stuff. You've taken care over it.

0:25:440:25:47

Don't throw it away. Use it. This is gold dust.

0:25:470:25:50

A bit more ghee on each one,

0:25:520:25:55

just to kind of lubricate the birds.

0:25:550:25:59

Then some honey.

0:25:590:26:02

Many good things in here, one after another.

0:26:020:26:05

Now, don't be tight with the salt. You really need a lot

0:26:050:26:08

to really bring all the flavours out here.

0:26:080:26:10

And finally add a little bit of water.

0:26:100:26:14

There should be a wonderful sauce at the bottom,

0:26:140:26:17

and that needs a little help. I live on a Moroccan street in London,

0:26:170:26:20

and eat a lot of Moroccan food locally,

0:26:200:26:23

and the locals tell me that the ras el hanout

0:26:230:26:25

is a good thing to bring out of the cupboard

0:26:250:26:27

when the weather's getting cold, because it really warms you.

0:26:270:26:31

I'm now going to put the lid of the tagine on.

0:26:310:26:33

The tagine is a very good thing to cook with. The ceramic is thick,

0:26:330:26:36

and it retains a lot of heat. Fantastic slow-cooking,

0:26:360:26:39

keeping the heat in. It's a wonderful thing to use.

0:26:390:26:42

And in it goes. It takes 40 minutes on a medium heat.

0:26:420:26:46

'Finally, add some hard-boiled eggs to garnish,

0:26:460:26:49

'heat through, then whisk out of the oven.'

0:26:490:26:52

Wowee!

0:26:520:26:54

Look at those lovely fat birds.

0:26:540:26:57

The smell coming off here is so utterly delicious.

0:26:570:27:01

Perfectly, perfectly cooked.

0:27:030:27:05

OK. It really is an extraordinary taste.

0:27:060:27:10

Partridges with ras el hanout.

0:27:100:27:12

Couldn't be better for a cold autumn day.

0:27:120:27:15

Thanks, Valentine!

0:27:150:27:17

Now, our third and final game recipe comes from Raymond Blanc.

0:27:170:27:21

It's a French classic, and the P here is for pigeon.

0:27:210:27:24

For his final recipe, Raymond returns to a classic,

0:27:300:27:34

a pigeon baked in a salt crust.

0:27:340:27:36

I did this dish 25 years ago,

0:27:370:27:39

and it's still modern in its concept.

0:27:390:27:42

It's still very much loved. That's what classics are all about.

0:27:420:27:45

These are just old Trafalgar pigeon, or the wood pigeon.

0:27:500:27:52

That one is special. He's a special one.

0:27:520:27:55

Raymond is using a French farm-raised pigeon

0:27:550:27:59

known as squab. You'll need one per person.

0:27:590:28:02

No seasoning, no salt, because we are going to put it into a salt crust,

0:28:020:28:06

so no seasoning.

0:28:060:28:09

The pigeons are seared in hot goose fat to brown the skin

0:28:090:28:12

for extra flavour.

0:28:120:28:14

Finish off, OK, the sides. OK. Tres bien.

0:28:140:28:18

And now we do our salt crust.

0:28:190:28:22

Although not eaten, the salt crust prevents small and lean game

0:28:220:28:25

like pigeon from becoming dry and overcooked.

0:28:250:28:28

Put one kilo of plain flour into a mixer.

0:28:280:28:32

Add 600 grams of fine salt

0:28:320:28:35

and nine egg whites.

0:28:350:28:37

Enormous amount of salt, and you don't eat it.

0:28:390:28:41

It's really to seal it, and it's a very special flavour.

0:28:410:28:46

Voila! I'm going to prepare to cut it into four.

0:28:490:28:54

Voila.

0:28:540:28:56

Chill the dough for 30 minutes before rolling to a thickness of five millimetres.

0:28:560:29:01

So, now I'm ready to wrap the squabs, OK, into the dough.

0:29:030:29:08

To decorate the salt crust, Raymond cuts out some wings.

0:29:080:29:13

Place it breast-down, bottoms up.

0:29:140:29:18

OK?

0:29:180:29:19

To help the sticking, that's the egg yolk.

0:29:190:29:23

Not too much, otherwise, if you put too much,

0:29:230:29:26

it will not stick. It will slide.

0:29:260:29:29

So, lift this side here. Tres bien.

0:29:290:29:32

And then lift... Put your breast, voila,

0:29:330:29:37

pressing right so there's no air pocket whatsoever.

0:29:370:29:42

Doesn't look very pretty at the moment,

0:29:420:29:45

but it will. We're going to do the head.

0:29:450:29:48

The first pigeon without head is not good.

0:29:480:29:52

Pinch the beak.

0:29:520:29:54

For eyes, two cloves are perfect.

0:29:540:29:58

This technique works without the need for decoration,

0:29:580:30:02

but for Raymond, the extra effort is worthwhile.

0:30:020:30:04

Voila. What you have to do to finish off is to put the egg yolk on it,

0:30:040:30:09

all over. That's what's going to give it its wonderful colour.

0:30:090:30:12

Don't chop his head off. Not yet. Later.

0:30:120:30:17

The last finish that you do is, er, salt.

0:30:180:30:22

The salt-crust pastry shell protects the meat from the heat,

0:30:220:30:26

creating an oven within an oven.

0:30:260:30:28

In an oven, the temperature goes very high, and the meat heat up.

0:30:280:30:33

Here the heat go very, very slowly,

0:30:330:30:35

permeating the meat quietly inside,

0:30:350:30:38

changing completely the texture and the flavour.

0:30:380:30:42

The pigeons are cooked for 20 minutes at 220 degrees centigrade.

0:30:420:30:46

Bye-bye!

0:30:480:30:51

Can we have some for the top, just from the top of the fridge?

0:30:510:30:54

To go with the pigeon, cabbage.

0:30:540:30:57

I'm asking for cabbage. He's given me lettuce.

0:30:570:31:00

It's amazing! I'm amazed.

0:31:000:31:03

When the cabbage arrives, it's quartered and steamed.

0:31:030:31:07

Raymond is also serving his favourite,

0:31:090:31:11

the fricassee of wild mushrooms.

0:31:110:31:14

So, of course, as a cook,

0:31:140:31:16

anything you wrapped into something, you cannot see, you cannot smell,

0:31:160:31:20

it's rather unnerving. What's happening inside?

0:31:200:31:23

Is it overcooked? Is it undercooked?

0:31:230:31:26

And you got all sorts of nightmares and doubts.

0:31:260:31:30

To serve, remove the pigeon from the crust.

0:31:300:31:33

Yes. You guillotine it.

0:31:330:31:36

Voila.

0:31:360:31:37

Spoon, like that. Well, come on out!

0:31:370:31:40

That's it. That's perfect. Tres bien.

0:31:400:31:43

Slice the blade gently towards...

0:31:430:31:48

Voila. So actually it's quite a nice medium rare.

0:31:480:31:52

I think that's one of the most beautiful food experiences

0:31:560:32:00

you may have. And it's unctuous...

0:32:000:32:03

It's the most melting quality.

0:32:030:32:05

You must taste it once in your lifetime.

0:32:050:32:08

Have you ever tasted squab before? No. Never?

0:32:080:32:13

I grew up with very dry pheasant. Poor you! Sorry!

0:32:130:32:17

How is it? It's good.

0:32:170:32:19

It's amazing how the salt crust has seasoned the breast so well.

0:32:190:32:23

It's seasoned it perfectly. See, for my mother, that'd be too rare,

0:32:230:32:27

but that's delicious.

0:32:270:32:29

Tell your mother we can teach her a few tricks, if possible.

0:32:290:32:32

Could you tell her, Chef? Of course I'll tell her.

0:32:320:32:35

Thank you. OK. Thank you. OK, good. Lovely.

0:32:350:32:38

Thank you.

0:32:380:32:40

Now time for some desserts. This P is for pineapple,

0:32:410:32:44

and here is Levi Roots, cooking up a pineapple pudding in Glasgow.

0:32:440:32:49

'I want to spread the message

0:32:530:32:55

'about the sunshine flavours of the Caribbean to everyone.

0:32:550:32:58

'But when I took a look at a map, it seems that there are some people

0:32:580:33:01

'who might be more in need than most.

0:33:010:33:04

'I've been doing a bit of research,

0:33:040:33:07

'and Scotland has hardly any Caribbean restaurants!

0:33:070:33:10

'I think it's time for a change.

0:33:100:33:13

'So I've chosen a spot right in the centre of Glasgow,

0:33:150:33:19

'and the perfect fruit to show people what they're missing.'

0:33:190:33:23

In the Caribbean, a pineapple is a sign of welcome and hospitality.

0:33:230:33:27

So what better way for me to introduce my Caribbean flavours

0:33:270:33:30

than to do my pineapple in lime, vanilla and rum syrup?

0:33:300:33:35

This mouth-watering dessert is going to persuade Glaswegians

0:33:350:33:39

that Caribbean food is a must.

0:33:390:33:41

I can't wait for them to taste my hot pineapple,

0:33:410:33:44

soaked in a warm syrup of sweet vanilla, rum and allspice.

0:33:440:33:49

So, first I'm going to start making my delicious syrup.

0:33:490:33:54

Dissolve some dark sugar in water

0:33:560:33:58

to give you a lovely, deep-coloured mix,

0:33:580:34:00

and then add the zest of a lime for zing-factor.

0:34:000:34:04

Next I'm going to add this lovely thing here,

0:34:040:34:07

which is vanilla pods.

0:34:070:34:09

Vanilla is something that you find in every Caribbean home.

0:34:090:34:13

The sweet flavour is concentrated in the seeds,

0:34:130:34:16

so cut along the length of the pods and scrape them out,

0:34:160:34:19

and for extra flavour, cut the pod in two and add it to the syrup.

0:34:190:34:23

Next, I'm diving into what I call the sunshine kit,

0:34:230:34:28

for allspice berries.

0:34:280:34:30

This kit is the essential toolbox of herbs and spices

0:34:300:34:33

used in Caribbean cookery. Keep these in your cupboard,

0:34:330:34:37

and you'll always be able to taste a little sunshine.

0:34:370:34:41

Thyme, Scotch-bonnet pepper, ginger, nutmeg,

0:34:410:34:45

garlic, and these aromatic allspice berries.

0:34:450:34:48

Normally allspice berries are used in savoury dishes,

0:34:480:34:52

but I think this time it's going to give it a nice, lovely warmth.

0:34:520:34:56

And now it's time for the star of the show, my big golden welcome.

0:34:560:35:02

You need to expose the juicy flesh.

0:35:020:35:05

It's important to go quite deep with your knife

0:35:050:35:08

when you're peeling your pineapple, so you get rid of all those eyes.

0:35:080:35:11

Like that.

0:35:110:35:14

And instantly... it reminds me of the Caribbean.

0:35:140:35:18

Lovely.

0:35:180:35:21

Fantastic. It's always good to cook with a smile on your face,

0:35:230:35:28

especially if you're cooking Caribbean.

0:35:280:35:31

It's what it's about! It's the fun.

0:35:310:35:34

Now let's put these on a skewer.

0:35:360:35:38

Make sure you keep your fingers well out of the way.

0:35:380:35:41

There's one.

0:35:430:35:46

I think these look ready for the barbecue.

0:35:460:35:48

You know, this is a real easy dish. The reason why I chose it,

0:35:490:35:53

because I don't want people just to taste it.

0:35:530:35:55

I want them to make it.

0:35:550:35:57

'You can always use a grill for this,

0:35:590:36:01

'but I want the aromas from this barbecue to grab people's attention.'

0:36:010:36:06

Cook your wedges for about eight minutes,

0:36:060:36:09

till they are lightly browned. By now,

0:36:090:36:11

your syrup should have reduced and thickened

0:36:110:36:14

ready for your final ingredient, the rum.

0:36:140:36:16

Your rum is optional. You don't have to put it in,

0:36:160:36:20

but you know me!

0:36:200:36:22

I think these are ready.

0:36:220:36:25

They look absolutely gorgeous.

0:36:300:36:33

This is warm syrup going onto warm pineapple.

0:36:350:36:39

Smell all that lovely rum,

0:36:390:36:42

and especially the allspice berries! I can smell those.

0:36:420:36:45

Fruity, spicy... It's a tropical delight! I love it!

0:36:450:36:49

So here's the deal. Shoppers not only get to taste,

0:36:490:36:53

they also get a pineapple complete with a recipe.

0:36:530:36:56

I want them to promise they will make this Caribbean treat for themselves.

0:36:560:37:00

Respect! This is my pineapple in lime, vanilla and rum syrup.

0:37:000:37:05

How is it tasting? Can you feel the sunshine on your face?

0:37:050:37:08

Really good. Lovely. Cool!

0:37:080:37:10

There you go. It's even got a ribbon on it. Thank you very much!

0:37:100:37:14

Is that good? It is lovely.

0:37:140:37:16

Would you be willing to try to make this at home?

0:37:160:37:19

If I was to give you the recipe... Yes.

0:37:190:37:21

I've got one without any rum in it for this nice lovely young lady.

0:37:210:37:26

The recipe's on there, and everything that is in there

0:37:260:37:29

you can pick up at your local supermarket. All right, my dear?

0:37:290:37:33

Bye! It's brilliant!

0:37:330:37:35

Glasgow is going potty for my pineapples.

0:37:350:37:39

Respect, man. Here you go.

0:37:390:37:41

There may be no Caribbean restaurants here,

0:37:420:37:45

but I'm hoping, in kitchens all over Glasgow,

0:37:450:37:48

people will be cooking my Caribbean food.

0:37:480:37:50

And we end today with another P-based pud.

0:37:500:37:54

Here's Nigel Slater, and his fruit of choice for this recipe

0:37:540:37:57

is the plum.

0:37:570:37:59

When I think of sugar and spice, I think of rainy, damp days

0:38:000:38:03

and warm kitchens full of wonderful smells like honey and syrup...

0:38:030:38:08

..ginger, ground nutmeg and clove.

0:38:090:38:12

'I'm going to be using some of those familiar flavours

0:38:120:38:15

'in a sugary, spicy plum-pudding cake with a stewed-plum topping...

0:38:150:38:20

..'a really useful recipe that works either as a family pudding

0:38:210:38:27

'or as a glorious cake for tea.

0:38:270:38:30

'First I need flour, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda.

0:38:310:38:36

'Now the spices.'

0:38:360:38:38

If you wanted to, you could put a little bit of ground clove

0:38:380:38:41

or nutmeg in, but I like to keep it very simple.

0:38:410:38:44

'I'm adding two of my favourites.'

0:38:470:38:50

Use ground cinnamon, a good teaspoon...

0:38:500:38:53

..and another teaspoon of ground ginger.

0:38:540:38:57

'Sift the flour, bicarb, baking powder and spices together.

0:38:570:39:02

'Don't be tempted to skip this.

0:39:020:39:04

'It's what will make the cake really light.

0:39:040:39:08

'With the spices taken care of, now for the sugary bit.

0:39:080:39:12

'I'm using golden syrup, about half a tin,

0:39:130:39:16

'and for extra depth I'm adding some honey,

0:39:160:39:20

'thick or runny.'

0:39:200:39:22

This is real spice-box baking.

0:39:220:39:25

I can get all my toys out of the cupboard.

0:39:250:39:28

'I use light muscovado sugar for this cake.

0:39:310:39:33

'Its treacly flavour works so well with the spices.

0:39:330:39:38

'Add butter, and melt it all together over a low heat.

0:39:380:39:42

'Then whisk up a couple of eggs with some milk.'

0:39:450:39:48

Stir the sugar and butter very gently,

0:39:540:39:59

just to make sure all the sugars have melted.

0:39:590:40:02

Almost smells like Christmas in here today.

0:40:020:40:05

'When the sugar's all melted, turn off the heat,

0:40:050:40:08

'and let it cool slightly while you line your baking tin.'

0:40:080:40:13

So far, so traditional.

0:40:130:40:15

What I want to do is to introduce some fruit into my cake,

0:40:150:40:19

and not dried fruits but some fresh fruit.

0:40:190:40:22

Of all of the fruits,

0:40:280:40:30

I think that members of the plum family take best to spices.

0:40:300:40:34

They need to be quite ripe for this. If the plums are very big,

0:40:340:40:38

then, it's worth quartering them.

0:40:380:40:40

They're very heavy, and they'll sink,

0:40:400:40:42

which is exactly what I want to happen,

0:40:420:40:45

so it will have a cakey quality on top,

0:40:450:40:47

and underneath, it will be soggy with the juice of the plums.

0:40:470:40:53

Add the warm sugar to the spiced flour.

0:40:560:40:58

'Mix it in gently. It'll be a bit lumpy, but it doesn't matter.

0:40:580:41:04

'Stir in the milk and eggs

0:41:040:41:06

'and pour the mixture into the lined baking tin.'

0:41:060:41:09

Into that, I'm going to drop the plums.

0:41:090:41:13

'It goes in the oven for about half an hour.'

0:41:160:41:19

I want something luscious to go with it.

0:41:210:41:24

I think it'll be lovely with sugary, spicy plums on top.

0:41:240:41:27

What I'm going to do is make up a sort of virtual jam, really,

0:41:270:41:31

by popping the fruit into the same pan

0:41:310:41:34

that I melted the golden syrup in.

0:41:340:41:36

'Add a little bit of sugar and butter.

0:41:370:41:40

'I want some spice in here too.

0:41:410:41:43

'I'm going to use the syrup from a jar of preserved ginger.'

0:41:430:41:47

If I hadn't got this, I'd just put in a little bit of ground ginger.

0:41:480:41:53

Pop the lid on and leave them to cook while the cake's in the oven.

0:41:530:41:58

'After half an hour or so, give it a test.

0:42:070:42:10

'It's done when the skewer comes out clean.

0:42:100:42:13

'With the spicy stewed plums ready,

0:42:140:42:16

'it's time to plate up.

0:42:160:42:18

'This is definitely a cake worth serving warm.'

0:42:180:42:22

I'm going to slide the warm plums on top,

0:42:220:42:25

and then some of the syrup round the outside.

0:42:250:42:29

Just a little dollop of cream.

0:42:330:42:36

Sugar and spice...

0:42:490:42:51

and absolutely gorgeous.

0:42:510:42:54

It's like heaven on a spoon.

0:42:550:42:58

This is a sweet and spicy treat,

0:42:590:43:02

whether you have it as pudding or cake.

0:43:020:43:04

And if you've never tried making your own cakes,

0:43:040:43:08

this is a great place to start.

0:43:080:43:10

That's the last of today's dishes. Now it's your turn to get cooking.

0:43:240:43:27

Thanks to all our chefs,

0:43:270:43:30

and do join me for more remarkable recipes next time.

0:43:300:43:33

See you soon.

0:43:330:43:35

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:360:43:40

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0:43:400:43:44

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