Letter R The A to Z of TV Cooking


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Fantastic ingredients, delicious dishes

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and some of the nation's favourite TV chefs.

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Get ready for a gourmet's greatest hits

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because this is The A-Z of TV Cooking.

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Today, we're looking at things linked by the letter R

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and here's just some of what's on the menu.

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Nigel Slater's tips on spicing up a ribs recipe...

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I much prefer the lightly-crushed, dried chillies,

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and they're really quite spicy.

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..a speedy razor clam dish with The Hairy Bikers...

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Ooh, there's one. Oh, look them!

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..and my mate, Gregg, with all you need to know and more about rhubarb.

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It is a good laxative, as well. Nice(!) Nice, Janet(!)

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All that to come, but we're starting with rice

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and a dish made up of not one, not two

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but three different varieties, all cooked up for us by Sophie Dahl.

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For years, this was my dinner party staple. This is a wild rice risotto.

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It is totally different from a traditional risotto

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and shouldn't really be called a risotto, but it's made in the same

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way as a risotto - it's stove-top, it's fed, it's a mixture of rices.

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Got red rice, wild rice and brown basmati.

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No arborio rice, so I think it would make an Italian turn in their grave.

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In here, I have two leeks, a red onion and two cloves of garlic,

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and to that mixture, I'm going to add one grated carrot,

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one courgette, a good handful of wild mushrooms.

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Roughly tear them.

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I think the reason this recipe's

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so good for a celebratory meal is it's beautiful to look at,

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you've got lots of different things going on,

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so three different kinds of rice, all these lovely vegetables.

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Next, you're going to add brown basmati, 500 grammes.

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Yes, it might be the brown rice that'll finish the Italians off,

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but just like a traditional risotto,

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now is the moment where you can add a good glug of wine.

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Absolutely love that smell of the wine hitting the bottom of the pan.

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So, once that wine has been guzzled up by the rice,

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this is where the patient ladling bit begins.

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So, really, the trick with risotto is to just keep feeding it.

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The moment it looks thirsty, another spoonful of stock.

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I used to love my mum's dinner parties, when I was little.

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The feeling of total fascination from watching her, as she put on

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her make-up and her earrings, and then, getting tricked into

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laying the table and thinking it was a great treat!

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Then, there's that very specific smell of a party, sort of, wafting...

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..upstairs. Very politically incorrect now,

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but the smell of cigarettes and perfume

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and, sort of, whisky and just brilliant... Brilliant smells.

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So, the rice has puffed up.

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I'm going to add to it what I cooked earlier,

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which was some wild rice and red rice.

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This is both a flavour thing and a texture thing

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because the rice that's been cooking in the pot with the stock is creamy.

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The wild rice, you've got that slightly nutty, bitter taste.

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Just works really well as a combination. Mm!

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Feels really filling and moreish.

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You could have that as a main course, if you're a vegetarian.

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Also, really good cold for the next day for lunch. Some salt.

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Some pepper. Grated Parmesan.

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And then, lastly, decent-sized bunch of parsley and coriander.

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Not remotely a strict combination.

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You could use basil, you could use chives,

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you could use a bit of tarragon.

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The thing that's lovely about this is you've got that

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sort of freshness of the coriander, the cleanness of the parsley,

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and it just works well with that sort of nutty rice.

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So what I'm going to do now, I've got this mould.

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Please don't imagine that every night, I'm going to

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the trouble of putting my food in moulds! I'm not.

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I'm serving it in a cake mould because it's going to set in

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the fridge, and then you turn it out and it's like a sort of risotto cake.

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Beautiful, if you've got people coming over, and it's celebratory.

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And that's what the whole spirit of tonight is.

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All that needs to happen with this now is it cools,

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then it goes into the fridge for a couple of hours to set. It's so easy.

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The good news is you get to have a bath,

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be relaxed and not answer your door a fraught, kind of, manic mess.

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Next, a recipe that really does look finger-licking good!

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We're moving on to R for ribs and this is Nigel Slater,

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who likes his sticky and spicy.

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I often think that the best fun a cook can have is seasoning.

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And one of my favourite seasonings of all

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is when I mix sweet things with something spicy.

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It's getting the right amount of heat and the right amount of sweetness.

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When I'm making ribs, pork ribs, I often start with some honey.

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'Sticky ribs are a classic example of sugar

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'and spice working brilliantly together.

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'You might never have thought of making them at home,

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'but it's much easier than you think.

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'So I've got the sweet honey, and now I need the spice.

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'I'm going to add crushed chillies.'

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And you can use ground chilli, if you like,

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but I much prefer the lightly-crushed, dried chillies.

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And they're really quite spicy.

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But then, because spicing isn't all about heat,

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it's a very aromatic thing, too, I'm going to stick in...

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..a warm, sort of earthy spice, too. A little bit of star anise.

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'They'll give the ribs a lovely, mellow, aniseed flavour.

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'I'm adding some oyster sauce, for richness.'

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There are so many recipes for ribs.

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Some of them have so many ingredients that they almost cancel

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one another out.

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I keep mine simple, with just a few ingredients that all add

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their certain something.

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'All it needs now is some salt and pepper. Don't grind the peppercorns.

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'Just bash them a bit.

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'Now for the ribs. You want something you can really get your teeth into.

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'Coat them thoroughly in the marinade.'

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Now, what I like to do is to leave the ribs in the sticky marinade

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for a few hours.

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Two's the minimum and overnight is probably the maximum.

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It just gives a chance for the spices and the sugar to work with the meat.

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'Finally, tuck some garlic cloves between the ribs.'

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And they'll soften as these are roasting.

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And you'll get a lovely mellowness.

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You won't get that rasping, garlic flavour.

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'Cover them and leave for as long as you can.

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'Once the flavours have really got to know each other,

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'then it's into a low oven, for 90 minutes.

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'Turn them occasionally, to make sure each rib gets

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'a good coating of the sweet and spicy marinade.'

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So, these ribs have been cooking for a good hour and a half

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and this is the moment when it actually gets slightly dangerous,

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because I'm going to put them back in the oven,

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but on a slightly higher heat.

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I'm going to keep my eye on them, till they're almost starting to burn,

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then I've got this incredible sweetness, the spiciness

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and then just that edge of caramel burntness to them.

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So this is how I like my ribs - very, very dark, very sticky...

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..very sweet and very spicy.

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'Choose plump, meaty ribs and cook them slowly.

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'While they're in the oven, they'll fill the kitchen with warm,

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'sweet and spicy smells and they'll be the best ribs you've ever eaten.'

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We're tackling, next, one of the nation's most popular curries.

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It's Rogan Josh, and here with how to cook it is Anjum Anand.

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Rogan Josh.

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Now, Rogan Josh is probably the most familiar Kashmiri dish

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that we know of in this country.

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If I could just ask you to slice that onion. OK.

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In Kashmir, they would use just lots of spices and yoghurt.

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So if you slice that,

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and I'll get into these garlic cloves to make a puree.

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Mm-hm. OK. Since you've done the onion, let's start cooking.

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'First, I'm going to fry off all my spices in hot oil.

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'I'm using black and green cardamom pods, peppercorn, cloves,

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'cinnamon and mace, which is derived from the nutmeg tree.

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'Next, I'm going to make a paste, using six cloves of garlic

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'and one square-inch piece of ginger.'

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So, in with that meat. All in. Right.

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If I can have you, kind of, gently browning that off in the onions.

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And the reason I haven't gone too dark with the onions

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is cos they're going to cook now more with the meat. Even more.

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Quite big pieces here. Would you actually leave them this size?

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No, I would have cut them a bit smaller, really.

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I mean, for the train, definitely. Well, that's what I was thinking.

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Does it matter, having them small? No, it doesn't matter at all.

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You know, in India, we eat with our hands, so we'll tear bits off and that's fine.

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But for the train, you absolutely cut them to the right size for you. OK.

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So how did you get involved in this train? How did that happen?

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Cos your parents are involved, too, aren't they?

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My parents have been involved, yes.

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They are still, um, slightly less involved than they were.

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My father used to be the chairman of the catering department. Ah!

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Now the connection makes sense. He roped you in, didn't he?

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Something like that, yes.

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Did what an Indian father does - he goes, "This is what I do.

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"Come and do it with me." OK. I'm just going to puree these tomatoes.

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'Then I'm adding half a teaspoon of chilli powder

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'and two teaspoons of cumin, coriander and garam masala.'

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Now, fennel seeds are really typical of Kashmir.

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And it's definitely something that should go into Rogan Josh,

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and it just works.

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Although it sounds unusual, it works really well with the lamb.

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So I'm adding two teaspoons. OK. Stir, stir, stir.

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And you can see the colour's already gotten darker.

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It's looking more like what you'd expect a curry to look like. Mm-hm.

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In go the tomatoes.

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This is yoghurt, and I've stirred it, so that it's got no lumps.

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So, three tablespoons, straight in.

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OK. Stir. And that's really all that goes into it.

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'Now I'm going to leave the lamb to stew for about 20 minutes.'

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Sound of the water, some wine and sunshine. A bit like a holiday...

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'Once the liquid has reduced, I brown the meat slowly in the masala.'

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So what it's actually doing is just concentrating all those flavours?

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Yup. So you just need enough liquid and in there to stop it catching.

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Yeah. Exactly. So it shouldn't, like, be dry.

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But there shouldn't be so much liquid that it's just kind of bubbling away.

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Yeah. So I'm happy with that.

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I can kind of smell the caramelisation of that masala.

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We need to add some water.

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It's not supposed to be a thin gravy, but it's also not thick,

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cos we're going to have it with rice,

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so we need enough to, kind of, moisten that. All right.

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So that's boiling. So I'm putting the heat back on, turning it down a bit.

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And then, just leaving it till the lamb's completely cooked.

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Another ten minutes or so.

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Un petit peu de garnish.

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And that is actually more than garnish, cos once you

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crunch into that with the lamb, it's really fragrant and fresh.

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And I think it's time to try.

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And we have lift-off!

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That's fabulous. Is it? Yeah.

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That's not converting you to eat lamb in Indian restaurants now, is it?

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It might well do. You're kidding! Yeah. Success!

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That's a good curry... if I do say so myself!

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'This fabulous lamb curry would normally be served

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'with Kashmiri pilaf rice.'

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We've had a couple of meat dishes there,

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so let's try something veggie.

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Here's one of my favourite cooking Rs, Rick Stein,

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with one of HIS favourite Rs, ravioli.

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And it's an unusual variety, as you're about to find out.

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Just thinking,

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I wonder how many people in this country actually eat pumpkins?

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They all seem to be turned into those little lanterns at Halloween.

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American idea, I think. They're missing a great treat. I'd love

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to see more pumpkins being eaten.

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They go particularly well in this ravioli dish,

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a classic Italian ravioli dish, where you mix Amaretti biscuits with them.

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Now, you'd have thought it's a combination that wouldn't work,

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but, in fact, it does.

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'So, first, you bake the slices of pumpkin with olive oil, salt,

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'fennel seeds and a scrunch of black pepper.'

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So I'm just going to put these in a hot oven for half an hour at least

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and then I'll scrape the flesh out, to make the ravioli filling.

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But now, I'm going to make the ravioli dough.

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'I use a food processor for this, to save time.

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'225 grammes of flour, two whole eggs, four egg yolks,

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'a little olive oil and some salt.'

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So, that's just about ready.

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It's a bit elastic now,

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so I'm just going to have to leave that

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to rest for about 20 minutes to sort of calm down a bit, by which time,

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of course, the pumpkin will be ready to get out of the oven.

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Pumpkin.

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"A large vegetable fruit, typically orange in colour." Mm.

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It's fairly obvious.

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No, I'm just waiting for it to roast at the moment.

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It takes... Well, I said 20 minutes. Actually, it's more like 40 minutes!

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I suppose we'll have to change it. Yeah!

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'And, indeed, it did take 40 minutes,

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'but I needed all that time to really concentrate

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'the flavour of the pumpkin and drive off a lot of the moisture.

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'Scoop the pumpkin flesh out and mix it with Amaretti biscuits.

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'I don't know why, but the flavours of the pumpkin

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'and the Amaretti really work, with Parmesan, of course, and an egg yolk.

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'Now I add some fresh white breadcrumbs,

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'just to tighten the mixture up a little.

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'And I season with salt and freshly-ground black pepper.

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'This is a classic Northern Italian dish

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'and needs just a rasp or two of nutmeg to finish off the filling.

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'Now, I make a dough that's rich in eggs, so you really do need

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'one of those Italian rolling machines, to do a proper job.

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'And what you do is just keep rolling it through and reducing

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'the roller gap all the time, so it's thinner and easier to work with.'

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Now, these are really good.

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I'm told every Italian housewife has one of them,

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but I think in the average British household, it's probably

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destined for the garage, shortly to be followed by the car-boot sale!

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Normally, I wouldn't bother with one of these.

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Actually, it's quite easy to make ravs,

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but I'm a sucker for a gadget, and, yes, I DID buy this.

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It also comes with a little rolling pin

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and you mustn't forget that in a car-boot sale.

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In theory, what you do is roll it along the top

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and out comes all these pristine little raviolis.

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Good Lord, I think it's working.

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Look at that!

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I suppose, in theory, what we do now is empty them onto a floured table.

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Something like this.

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Yeah, look at those.

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Look at that, they're lovely little ravs.

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You need to cook these in plenty of boiling salted water

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for about four minutes.

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And making the sage butter is simplicity itself.

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Just melt butter over a high heat, add your sage leaves

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and fry them for a little bit and then add lemon juice.

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I forget that this is actually a vegetarian dish

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because I think the best vegetarian food doesn't try to be vegetarian,

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it just doesn't happen to have meat or fish in it.

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I saw this in a restaurant in Venice and thought, "I'll give that miss",

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but everyone was ordering it.

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I thought I'd give it a try and I'm so glad I did.

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Do you know what?

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This is not going to the cupboard under the stairs with the fondue set,

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I'm going to keep it, it makes jolly good ravs.

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Considering our next chefs are well-known for their beards,

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you wouldn't have them down as fans of the razor,

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but they are both united in celebrating the razor clam.

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Our next star is courtesy of The Hairy Bikers.

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We're going to make chilli and garlic razor clams

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served with parsley crumbs and a harissa and saffron mayonnaise.

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Ancient forage food meets the flavours of contemporary cooking.

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First up, we cook the clams in boiling water,

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and you don't need to do that for long.

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Literally it is for seconds because they'll open pretty quickly.

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Soon as they're open, they're cooked.

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There's one. Look at them!

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Say hello to Daddy.

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Look at those.

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They're cooked.

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And if you like eating mussels, if you like cockles,

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the sweeter shellfish, these are better.

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But we can't tell you enough.

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They key is, you saw, literally, it took seconds.

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The key with razor clams is not to overcook them

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because if you do, they'll go chewy and rubbery.

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Squash balls. Yeah.

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Drain them off and, while they're cooling,

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we'll get on with the other components.

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I'm going to chop one chilli and eight cloves of garlic

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to make an infusion that we'll pour over the clams.

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While Si's doing that, I'm going to fry up 50g of breadcrumbs,

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which I'll mix with a handful of rough-chopped parsley.

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They're just nice to sprinkle over the razor clams

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when they've been dressed with the garlic and olive oil.

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With the razor clams, they're wonderful.

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This is British produce and it doesn't come much better.

0:20:260:20:30

For the oil, it's really important not to burn

0:20:300:20:32

the garlic when you cook it.

0:20:320:20:34

Do you know how we keep banging on and going,

0:20:340:20:36

"Oh, listen, start with something in your pan"?

0:20:360:20:39

Not this time. What we're going to do is put...

0:20:390:20:42

the chilli in and put the garlic in, again into a cold pan.

0:20:420:20:46

We're going to cover it...

0:20:460:20:48

..with olive oil - and quite a lot of olive oil.

0:20:490:20:52

Look at the heat here, it's really quite low,

0:20:530:20:56

so we're just going to very, very slowly bring that up, very slowly.

0:20:560:21:00

We're going to season it up with lots of black pepper...

0:21:030:21:06

..and salt

0:21:080:21:10

and then just stir it in.

0:21:100:21:11

We're going to leave the breadcrumbs to cool,

0:21:130:21:15

before we add in the parsley.

0:21:150:21:17

In the meantime, we can get on with the last bit of the recipe -

0:21:180:21:22

the harissa and saffron mayonnaise.

0:21:220:21:23

I love saffron.

0:21:250:21:27

The smell is lovely.

0:21:270:21:29

The spice that's more expensive than gold.

0:21:290:21:33

Just put a good handful in there.

0:21:330:21:35

Keith Floyd always use to say, he said, "When people say to me

0:21:350:21:38

"how much saffron do I use, I say, how much can you afford?"

0:21:380:21:42

Splash of boiling water on that.

0:21:420:21:44

Look at the colour that's come out that instantly.

0:21:440:21:47

It's going to make the most fantastic colourful-tasting mayo.

0:21:470:21:50

Leave that to cool.

0:21:500:21:52

Saffron's interesting. It's thought that the Phoenicians,

0:21:520:21:55

when trading for tin with the Cornish, swapped saffron for tin,

0:21:550:21:59

and this could explain that the Cornish love making saffron cakes.

0:21:590:22:04

But we do know that, in the 16th century,

0:22:040:22:06

saffron was grown in Britain, particularly in Essex.

0:22:080:22:11

Saffron Walden. Look at that - got a tan like an Essex girl.

0:22:110:22:14

Now for the other main ingredient.

0:22:170:22:19

This is harissa,

0:22:210:22:23

a chilli paste that goes really well with Middle Eastern food.

0:22:230:22:26

A lot of people think it's Moroccan, but originally it's Tunisian,

0:22:260:22:29

and it's fantastic.

0:22:290:22:31

Put a teaspoon of that in a bowl.

0:22:310:22:33

What's great about cooking in Britain

0:22:330:22:36

is that we get to spice up our lives

0:22:360:22:38

with fantastic international ingredients.

0:22:380:22:40

The one that we're using is rose harissa,

0:22:400:22:43

it's not as hot and fiery,

0:22:430:22:44

because you can get some harissas that blow your socks off.

0:22:440:22:48

There are all really robust flavours

0:22:490:22:52

and honestly, the razor clams can take it.

0:22:520:22:54

Add in a couple of large tablespoons of mayonnaise and mix it in.

0:22:560:23:00

That is gorgeous. Now mix the saffron in.

0:23:020:23:04

You don't waste any of this.

0:23:090:23:11

Look at that.

0:23:120:23:14

Somewhat tasty and somewhat psychedelic.

0:23:150:23:18

That's what you call a seafood sauce.

0:23:180:23:20

Oh, yeah.

0:23:240:23:25

Oh, yeah, it's earthy, as well. It's lovely.

0:23:250:23:28

By now my chilli and garlic infused oil should be ready.

0:23:280:23:32

This is when it's ready. Look.

0:23:320:23:34

Got little bubbles in the oil.

0:23:350:23:37

At that point, take it off the heat.

0:23:380:23:40

And leave it.

0:23:410:23:42

That's it. It's done.

0:23:420:23:43

Put the parsley in the crumbs and we're nearly there.

0:23:470:23:49

We've got the clams, we've got the dressing, accompaniments

0:23:510:23:55

and we've got its juice.

0:23:550:23:57

Lovely.

0:23:570:23:58

We can start building now, can't we? We can.

0:23:580:24:01

Let's show you how to dress a razor clam.

0:24:010:24:06

Really simple.

0:24:060:24:08

Save the shells.

0:24:080:24:10

They come out of the shells easy, don't they? Yeah.

0:24:100:24:13

This bit here, you don't want.

0:24:130:24:14

And you want to make a cut across there, like that.

0:24:160:24:19

Look at that. Beautiful piece of meat.

0:24:220:24:24

Now the foot. We want all that.

0:24:240:24:26

So we just nip that off like that.

0:24:260:24:29

So we have two lovely pieces of meat. And this bit, you chuck.

0:24:290:24:33

Take the shells and snap the hinge, so they lie flat on a baking tray.

0:24:460:24:51

Then replace the prepared clams.

0:24:510:24:53

There we are. Lovely.

0:24:580:24:59

Dress them with the infused garlic and chilli oil.

0:25:020:25:05

Coastal foraging's interesting

0:25:050:25:07

because it's far from being, kind of, like survivalist food,

0:25:070:25:10

it's quite haute cuisine,

0:25:100:25:12

I mean, you could eat this in a very fancy restaurant and be happy.

0:25:120:25:15

Last of all, the clams need to go under a blistering hot grill

0:25:220:25:25

for two to three minutes.

0:25:250:25:27

Move the shelf up as close as you can get it to the grill,

0:25:270:25:30

under a preheated grill, which is key, stick your razor clams in.

0:25:300:25:33

They're starting to go.

0:25:410:25:43

I think they're perfect.

0:25:430:25:44

Sizzling away.

0:25:450:25:47

Just dress that with the crumbs and parsley.

0:25:580:26:00

And on the side...

0:26:030:26:04

..a nice big dipping dollop of the saffron and harissa mayo.

0:26:050:26:10

That looks fantastic.

0:26:120:26:14

I think that's what I would call a Michelin-star forage.

0:26:140:26:17

I'd be with you. That's a top scrams, that one.

0:26:170:26:20

Should we? I think we should.

0:26:210:26:23

Forks or foraged?

0:26:230:26:24

Foraged.

0:26:240:26:25

Mayo. Garlic. Crumbs.

0:26:280:26:31

The chilli and the razor clam, it's so sweet,

0:26:370:26:39

and then you have that lovely savoury hit with the garlic and the oil.

0:26:410:26:45

Fabulous.

0:26:450:26:47

Then you dip it in the mayo, you get that earthy thing with the saffron.

0:26:470:26:50

It's amazing.

0:26:500:26:52

If you like squid, you'd like these.

0:26:520:26:54

If you like mussels, you'd like these.

0:26:540:26:57

If you like scallops, you'd go bonkers for these.

0:26:570:27:00

And if you like food for nothing,

0:27:000:27:02

give this one a go.

0:27:020:27:03

That, here on our beaches and on our shorelines and they're fantastic.

0:27:050:27:11

All you need, a bit of courage, a good sense of the tides

0:27:110:27:15

and a bag of salt.

0:27:150:27:16

Cooking foraged food and eating the oldest grub around,

0:27:200:27:23

it's a great way to connect with our very earliest foodie ancestors.

0:27:230:27:27

But it's great to combine those primal flavours

0:27:290:27:32

with the best tastes modern cooking has to offer.

0:27:320:27:35

Fusing the really old and the new.

0:27:350:27:38

Our next star is for rhubarb. But before we look at the recipe,

0:27:400:27:43

let's join my great mate Gregg Wallace, finding out

0:27:430:27:47

about one particular type and how it got it's special status.

0:27:470:27:50

My dream is to reinstate British rhubarb as national treasure.

0:27:540:27:59

I'm off to Rothwell, to meet a grower

0:27:590:28:01

who's as passionate about rhubarb as I am

0:28:010:28:04

and has been instrumental in putting Yorkshire forced rhubarb

0:28:040:28:07

back on the map.

0:28:070:28:08

I love forced rhubarb.

0:28:130:28:15

Tender, soft, sweet, bright pink

0:28:150:28:18

and the chefs I work with

0:28:180:28:19

simply cannot get enough of it.

0:28:190:28:21

But in recent years,

0:28:210:28:23

there's been a rival on the shelf.

0:28:230:28:25

Those naughty, crafty Dutch are trying to pass theirs off

0:28:250:28:28

as the hallowed forced Yorkshire.

0:28:280:28:30

Not right.

0:28:300:28:32

And the Yorkshire growers weren't prepared to take that lying down.

0:28:340:28:37

They knew they had a unique product

0:28:370:28:39

and they were prepared to fight for it.

0:28:390:28:41

And the good news is,

0:28:430:28:44

after six long years battling with bureaucrats in Brussels,

0:28:440:28:48

Yorkshire forced rhubarb has been awarded

0:28:480:28:50

a protected designation of origin status - a PDO.

0:28:500:28:54

It's an exceptionally rare accolade, which puts it right up there with

0:28:540:28:58

the likes of Champagne and Parma ham.

0:28:580:29:00

And Janet is the woman who made it all happen.

0:29:000:29:03

There it is. The beauty.

0:29:040:29:05

Your forced rhubarb has been a huge success in the last ten years.

0:29:060:29:11

And I've got to congratulate you on your hard work

0:29:110:29:14

on getting European PDO status.

0:29:140:29:15

Yes, thank you.

0:29:150:29:17

It was hard work.

0:29:170:29:18

It took six years in total.

0:29:180:29:20

But now, no-one can call it Yorkshire rhubarb.

0:29:200:29:23

Exactly. Unless it comes from Yorkshire.

0:29:230:29:26

Yorkshire forced rhubarb is available for just a few months a year,

0:29:260:29:29

from January to March.

0:29:290:29:32

It's first established outdoors.

0:29:320:29:33

Is this where the life of forced rhubarb starts?

0:29:330:29:36

It is.

0:29:360:29:37

This is a two-year-old root.

0:29:370:29:40

When do you decide to take it in?

0:29:400:29:41

It's got to have two to three years of living out here,

0:29:410:29:45

getting stronger and stronger. The root are massing an energy supply.

0:29:450:29:50

So you have to leave it completely dormant for over two years?

0:29:500:29:53

You don't get a single penny out of it? No.

0:29:530:29:55

It's not dormant, it's growing and working for the plants.

0:29:550:29:58

Yeah, but it's not making you any money. It's not. Exactly.

0:29:580:30:01

When they're ready, the roots are moved indoors

0:30:010:30:03

to pitch black forcing sheds -

0:30:030:30:05

a controlled environment that produces sweeter, tender stems.

0:30:050:30:09

In a forcing shed there is no light.

0:30:090:30:11

What makes it grow at all?

0:30:110:30:13

In the forcing sheds? Cos it's looking for light.

0:30:130:30:16

And that is when, the scientists have found out,

0:30:160:30:19

it puts out this substance, polyphenols,

0:30:190:30:23

that we need in our bodies, because polyphenols basically clear out

0:30:230:30:27

your body of pollutants that could cause cancer in your body.

0:30:270:30:32

This scientist who found the cancer cure in the rhubarb,

0:30:320:30:35

could you ask him to look in the beer at rugby matches?

0:30:350:30:38

Cos I'm sure it's got the same preventative medicine in there.

0:30:380:30:42

It is a good laxative as well. Nice. Nice, Janet.

0:30:420:30:46

Would you let me look in one of these sheds?

0:30:460:30:48

Yeah. Let's go have a look.

0:30:480:30:50

Take my arm. Nothing's growing, but it will give you an idea.

0:30:500:30:54

Janet has ten forcing sheds of varying sizes

0:30:540:30:56

producing around 200 tons of proper Yorkshire forced rhubarb a year.

0:30:560:31:00

This is one of the famous forcing sheds?

0:31:010:31:04

This is the largest one in the country.

0:31:040:31:06

It's one of the last ones ever to be built

0:31:060:31:09

because they do say today,

0:31:090:31:11

to build a forcing shed you'll never get your money back

0:31:110:31:14

because they're only used for six weeks' harvest, that's all.

0:31:140:31:18

When do the rhubarb roots come in here?

0:31:180:31:20

Late November, early December.

0:31:200:31:23

Ready to be in production straight after the New Year.

0:31:230:31:26

How many plants will we get in here?

0:31:260:31:29

You'll get between 20 to 30,000.

0:31:290:31:32

And they need to be kept damp and warm with mist irrigation

0:31:320:31:35

and propane heaters.

0:31:350:31:37

Looks like an aircraft engine. And you've got...? Two of them.

0:31:370:31:42

Do you think I may have learned enough

0:31:420:31:44

to now grow my own on a very small scale?

0:31:440:31:47

I won't bet on it.

0:31:470:31:49

You're not going to be in competition, I don't think.

0:31:490:31:53

I've been truly blown away by the hard work

0:31:530:31:55

and dedication that goes into producing our forced rhubarb

0:31:550:31:58

and can't believe it's taken this long to give it

0:31:580:32:00

the recognition it deserves.

0:32:000:32:02

It's a piece of our culinary heritage and it's delicious.

0:32:020:32:06

For a start it's just amazingly tender.

0:32:060:32:08

The force of my tongue on it against the roof of my mouth

0:32:080:32:12

is enough to make the whole thing dissolve.

0:32:120:32:15

That is just stunning.

0:32:150:32:17

That's nectar.

0:32:170:32:18

I'm having that.

0:32:180:32:20

You don't have to taste it, do you? No.

0:32:200:32:22

Close your eyes. I'll only be a minute.

0:32:220:32:25

I'm really impressed.

0:32:300:32:31

I really had no idea how difficult it was to force rhubarb.

0:32:310:32:35

It's not a scientific process at all, it's completely artisan.

0:32:350:32:38

Everything depends on the skill and the knowledge of the grower,

0:32:380:32:41

but I'm really pleased that they've managed to get PDO status.

0:32:410:32:45

For an industry once in decline has now recognised for its uniqueness.

0:32:450:32:50

It's a beautiful product and now luckily it's protected for ever.

0:32:500:32:53

What we need now is a rhubarb recipe.

0:32:550:32:58

So here are Tony and Giorgio with a rhubarb bread and butter pudding.

0:32:580:33:02

Shall we sling one together? Yeah.

0:33:050:33:07

Or let's put one together delicately.

0:33:070:33:09

Let's put one together.

0:33:090:33:11

We're going to go for a layer of bread.

0:33:110:33:12

Bread first.

0:33:120:33:14

All this way round.

0:33:140:33:15

I think it's better you do it left to right

0:33:160:33:19

because it's very unlucky to do it like that.

0:33:190:33:22

Like this?

0:33:220:33:23

Yeah, do it like that.

0:33:230:33:24

Why? You superstitious?

0:33:240:33:27

Everything has got to be why, why, why?

0:33:270:33:30

Why? Because it's like that. That's it.

0:33:300:33:32

If my mum asked you why, what would you say to her?

0:33:320:33:35

Politely, I'll tell her.

0:33:350:33:37

Come on. Why, why, why.

0:33:370:33:39

That's what the chef says.

0:33:390:33:41

You don't whistle in the kitchen.

0:33:410:33:43

You don't put things left to right.

0:33:430:33:45

You always put it right to left.

0:33:450:33:47

It is very unlucky.

0:33:470:33:48

I'm going this way for this one. Really?

0:33:480:33:50

Tonight I'm going to have an accident on my way back from

0:33:500:33:53

the restaurant, then I'll blame you, yeah? OK.

0:33:530:33:55

Nice.

0:33:570:33:58

Then we're going to put a bit of rhubarb.

0:34:010:34:04

Just in the gaps, yeah?

0:34:040:34:06

The colour is beautiful.

0:34:060:34:08

It's lovely.

0:34:080:34:09

Lovely shocking pink.

0:34:090:34:11

Very Versace, this is.

0:34:110:34:12

Ladle the custard gently over.

0:34:130:34:16

You always go from underneath,

0:34:190:34:22

you better keep some to put round the top.

0:34:220:34:25

Put the bread on.

0:34:250:34:27

Rhubarb, baby.

0:34:280:34:30

Yeah, we got enough?

0:34:310:34:33

You say it wasn't possible, but it's pretty easy, this dish.

0:34:340:34:37

It's a lovely dish. So much stuff to throw away.

0:34:370:34:39

Hang on. You made me do too much bread.

0:34:390:34:41

Didn't do too much bread.

0:34:410:34:43

Just a million pounds... Millionaire.

0:34:430:34:47

Nice big chunky bits on it.

0:34:480:34:50

Down the sides.

0:34:500:34:51

Oh, look at that.

0:34:520:34:54

Come on, we're suppose to be a marriage,

0:34:540:34:57

partners like egg and bacon.

0:34:570:34:58

You slag me off all the time,

0:34:580:35:01

then when it's your turn I have to be nice to you.

0:35:010:35:03

I have enough of this.

0:35:030:35:05

Oven?

0:35:050:35:06

I open the oven. Do the honours.

0:35:060:35:09

You don't cook it in...?

0:35:090:35:11

No, that's a bit restauranty. This is straight into the oven.

0:35:110:35:15

Just give it roughly an hour.

0:35:150:35:17

But we can keep checking it.

0:35:170:35:18

Wait now? Yeah.

0:35:200:35:22

You're on the spoon, I'll be on the tea towel.

0:35:220:35:25

I'll do this for you.

0:35:250:35:27

Give me the spoon.

0:35:270:35:28

Look. Whoa!

0:35:280:35:31

Robbie Williams does it with the microphone.

0:35:310:35:33

I got, "Eh, I can cook something for you."

0:35:330:35:35

Have you seen that?

0:35:380:35:39

Robin Williams.

0:35:420:35:44

Robbie.

0:35:440:35:46

Look.

0:35:460:35:48

See, I get too excited and...

0:35:510:35:53

Yeah.

0:35:530:35:54

Do you like it? Yeah.

0:35:590:36:01

That looks good. It would look better if you kept the crust on.

0:36:010:36:04

No, listen, I did what you told me.

0:36:060:36:08

And now because you don't like it, you're telling me...

0:36:080:36:11

I love it, it's beautiful. But it could have been better.

0:36:110:36:13

The colour is very, very beautiful.

0:36:130:36:15

You want to try it? Hang on.

0:36:150:36:17

Remember when I said we save a little bit of the custard?

0:36:170:36:20

I saved it for you.

0:36:200:36:21

Got big lumps in it.

0:36:250:36:27

Don't be so stupid, there's no lumps in that.

0:36:270:36:29

What's that, then?

0:36:310:36:33

The scrambled egg?

0:36:330:36:34

That's what we call a scrambled anglaise.

0:36:340:36:36

It's not scrambled.

0:36:360:36:38

I'm just joking.

0:36:380:36:39

I've got to have a good sense of humour, I work with you.

0:36:420:36:45

I come to this country because they say,

0:36:450:36:46

"Go to England because they got very good humour."

0:36:460:36:49

Very good humour. Then you get touchy about

0:36:500:36:53

little bit of scrambled egg. Just eat it, will you?

0:36:530:36:55

Crust or no crust, it's delicious.

0:37:000:37:02

Is it...? NO!

0:37:030:37:06

Thanks, fellas.

0:37:060:37:07

Next up, Valentine Warner is using raspberries in a double R delight -

0:37:070:37:10

raspberry ripple ice cream.

0:37:100:37:12

Finally, the ultimate supper sweet to keep you cool

0:37:140:37:18

is my raspberry ripple ice cream.

0:37:180:37:21

Heat cream, milk and fresh vanilla in a pan.

0:37:210:37:24

As soon as it starts to boil, remove from the heat.

0:37:250:37:28

Whisk together egg yolks and caster sugar.

0:37:280:37:32

Add your cream and milk mixture

0:37:320:37:33

and then return to a low heat.

0:37:330:37:35

Stir the mixture constantly for around 20 minutes until thickened.

0:37:360:37:40

Leave to cool.

0:37:400:37:42

Now for the raspberry ripple.

0:37:420:37:44

Add raspberries, sugar and water and simmer vigorously until

0:37:440:37:47

the fruit has totally collapsed.

0:37:470:37:49

Then sieve into a pan and return the juice to the heat and reduce.

0:37:500:37:54

Pour your cooled creamy mixture into an ice cream machine

0:37:550:37:59

and churn until very thick and smooth.

0:37:590:38:02

If you don't have a machine, put the mixture in the freezer

0:38:020:38:06

and thoroughly mash with a fork every couple of hours until almost solid.

0:38:060:38:10

Scoop out the ice cream, add the raspberry sauce

0:38:110:38:14

and swirl to get the ripple effect, then freeze until solid.

0:38:140:38:18

Ice cream is summer.

0:38:210:38:23

Yum.

0:38:230:38:24

Now, we began the show with R for rice

0:38:280:38:30

and we're ending it with R for rice.

0:38:300:38:32

And here is one of my favourite Rs - Raymond Blanc,

0:38:320:38:35

with an amazing-looking take on a good old rice pudding.

0:38:350:38:38

In Raymond's Oxfordshire kitchen,

0:38:430:38:44

he's preparing the ingredients for his first recipe.

0:38:440:38:48

A French classic and childhood favourite -

0:38:480:38:50

riz au lait.

0:38:500:38:51

This creamy vanilla rice pudding is hidden under a crunchy topping

0:39:000:39:03

complemented by a tangy sweet berry compote.

0:39:030:39:06

Rice pudding.

0:39:080:39:09

It encourages all sorts of wonderful children memories.

0:39:090:39:12

I love this dish because it's homely.

0:39:140:39:16

It's yummy, it's delicious.

0:39:160:39:18

It's a relatively simple dish as well.

0:39:180:39:21

But Raymond's not the only chef taken back to his childhood

0:39:220:39:24

by this classic dessert.

0:39:240:39:27

M. Benoit is the one of the great patissiers in this country.

0:39:270:39:32

15 years we've battled.

0:39:320:39:34

He claims that his mother makes the best riz au lait.

0:39:340:39:37

I claim that Mama Blanc does the best riz au lait.

0:39:370:39:41

Since there is a battle of the riz au lait,

0:39:410:39:43

it must be once and for all concluded. Shall we?

0:39:430:39:46

I know the winner already.

0:39:460:39:47

See you later. See you later.

0:39:510:39:52

With the gauntlet thrown down,

0:39:540:39:56

the first thing Raymond needs to do is cook the rice.

0:39:560:39:59

First thing I'm going to do is to add sugar.

0:39:590:40:03

Everything together.

0:40:040:40:05

The rice.

0:40:050:40:08

The milk.

0:40:080:40:09

There's 1.7 litre of milk.

0:40:090:40:10

Whole milk. Of course you can do it with thin milk or whatever.

0:40:120:40:16

You can also do it with water.

0:40:160:40:18

But it's not quite the same, so I use whole milk.

0:40:180:40:23

It will absorb ten times its own weight.

0:40:240:40:28

Gorging itself with that milk.

0:40:280:40:31

Fantastic.

0:40:310:40:33

To create that fluffy, delicious experience.

0:40:330:40:36

Raymond's method is simple.

0:40:360:40:38

He just stirs the rice occasionally during cooking.

0:40:380:40:41

But there is a more time-consuming method going on

0:40:410:40:44

in the other kitchen.

0:40:440:40:45

He stirs his completely.

0:40:450:40:47

All the time he has to stand by the stove for hours.

0:40:470:40:53

Mine is more simpler.

0:40:530:40:55

For his low-maintenance method,

0:40:550:40:58

Raymond adds a tablespoon of vanilla puree to the milk

0:40:580:41:01

and leaves it to simmer gently for 30 minutes.

0:41:010:41:04

Just don't have to...

0:41:040:41:06

Thank you very much.

0:41:070:41:09

We're going to warm it up.

0:41:110:41:13

A little bit of butter.

0:41:130:41:15

He dusts the butter dish with sugar

0:41:150:41:18

which will caramelise around the rice during cooking.

0:41:180:41:21

Should be not starchy but creamy.

0:41:210:41:24

We'll see how it comes out.

0:41:240:41:26

After half an hour

0:41:320:41:33

the fluffy milky rice is ready to go into the oven at 150 degrees.

0:41:330:41:37

I'll just hope for the best.

0:41:420:41:44

Another 30 minutes and Raymond's riz au lait is ready.

0:41:470:41:50

Rice pudding - Mama Blanc.

0:41:530:41:56

What you're going to do is to...

0:41:580:42:00

brulee. A bit of sugar, so to use a lovely caramel

0:42:000:42:05

because that's what I love the most.

0:42:050:42:06

Or you could do what my mum would do, use an iron. So appetising.

0:42:090:42:15

You can see all these wonderful bubbles here.

0:42:160:42:19

A champion - Mama Blanc.

0:42:250:42:27

A childhood favourite.

0:42:270:42:29

Comforting creamy rice topped with a sweet caramel crust

0:42:290:42:33

served with a tangy berry compote.

0:42:330:42:35

There we go. That looks lovely.

0:42:460:42:48

But does it taste lovely? We'll see.

0:42:480:42:50

If it's not as good as I like it to be,

0:42:500:42:53

it's because my mother didn't cook it, I did.

0:42:530:42:55

There we go.

0:42:550:42:56

Shall we try it?

0:42:560:42:58

The proof is in the pudding.

0:42:580:42:59

The rice pudding today.

0:42:590:43:01

You go ahead.

0:43:010:43:03

Wow.

0:43:030:43:04

You are my guest.

0:43:100:43:12

Lovely.

0:43:130:43:15

Take a little bit of a...

0:43:150:43:16

I think it's lovely as well. How much?

0:43:190:43:23

I'm going to give you 9.

0:43:230:43:25

I'll give you 9 too.

0:43:250:43:27

It's done.

0:43:290:43:30

But you have to come to my house one day and my mum will cook it for you.

0:43:300:43:34

And this one will be ten out of ten.

0:43:340:43:35

I hope you've enjoyed all of today's recipes.

0:43:380:43:41

A big thank you to all our chefs today,

0:43:410:43:43

and do make sure you join us for more next time.

0:43:430:43:46

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0:43:560:43:59

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