Letter B The A to Z of TV Cooking


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This is the show where we bring together some of the nations top TV chefs and letter by letter

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serve up some of their greatest ever dishes.

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It's as easy as A, B, C, on the A To Z Of TV cooking.

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Today we're looking at things linked by the letter B.

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Let's start with one of life's basics.

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And here's Michel Roux with his B, he's baking bread.

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First, put the milk on to a gentle heat.

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Then, slowly melt some butter.

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Before adding a tablespoon full of golden syrup.

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The golden syrup is in there to give just a touch of sweetness

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but also it helps to give that lovely moist crumb.

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So whilst this is melting...

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..we put our fresh yeast in our bowl.

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Every bread needs some form of leavening and this yeast is the leaven.

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It's the life.

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Pour the warm milk on to the yeast and stir until it's dissolved.

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We buy more white bread in Britain than any other variety.

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I want to prove to you that it is possible to make a really

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delicious white loaf, that's why I'm using white flour.

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Then, add two pinches of salt to complete the dough.

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Then we're going to leave it for a while

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so that all the moisture is absorbed in the flour.

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And that's it.

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After just five minutes resting in a warm place, you can

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start to knead the dough.

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I'm just keeping it in the bowl

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and I'm not really working very hard, I'm just stretching.

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Stretching the gluten in there.

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And if it does stick to your hands a bit you can just get a little

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bit of flour and rub that on your fingers and your fingers come clean.

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There are no shortcuts to making a great loaf of bread.

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So after the dough has been kneaded for around ten minutes,

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leave it to rise for half an hour, to give the yeast time to do it's work.

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And again, as soon as you take the clingfilm off you can smell

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those yeasts working.

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It has a lovely aroma, beautiful aroma and it's smooth,

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it's glistening.

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Quite beautiful.

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So I then turn this out on to the board.

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I remember these smells, these aromas as a child.

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Of waking up to freshly baked bread.

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I want every house in Britain to be baking.

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Or at least supporting your local baker.

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Form the dough in to two balls, place them in a baking tin

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and allow to rise for a 2nd time.

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A bread that's only risen once and has been pushed through

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the whole process is bland and it hasn't had a life.

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A further 30 minutes in a warm place is all it should need.

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Wow, that looks beautiful.

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It's got that lovely shape, beautiful sheen

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and it's ready to go in the oven.

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First off, we need to slash the bread.

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So we take a very sharp knife and just go over there like that.

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And that will help the bread develop and open up. And in to the oven.

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Now the oven is at 200 degrees C and we do that for about ten minutes.

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And that helps to really push and make the bread develop

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and then we turn it down to about 180.

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And it should take 30 minutes to cook. 30 minutes to wait for heaven.

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Here we go. Looks beautiful and the smell is great.

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This is what I love about cooking bread.

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You never know exactly how a loaf will turn out.

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This is beautiful and it's white bread

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but it actually has got a crust so it's crunchy on the outside.

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And it's got that lovely delicate texture on the inside.

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It's got the perfect crumb

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and you can smell all the ingredients in there.

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That golden syrup gives it just a hint of sweetness

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but it's also helping the yeast to grow and to give that lovely texture.

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Good bread needs butter.

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Mmm. So simple to make.

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But the pleasure you get out of that is indescribable.

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Next up, a breakfast time B, courtesy of Sophie Dahl.

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This is her bright and beautiful bruschetta.

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So having had the most perfect breakfast on my selfish day,

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I've been thinking about lunch.

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In fact I haven't been able to stop thinking about lunch.

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So, I'm going to make a really simple feast of the most

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beautiful ingredients.

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A yellow and green bruschetta.

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Got some fennel here and unless you're an expert chopper,

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peeling is a brilliant way to go.

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Our lovely yellow courgette.

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Predominantly chosen for it's colour

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but they have a really subtle flavour and

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when you put the dressing on it it really sort of wears it like a coat.

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And fennel is the sort of opposite of that.

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It's the kind of bold, fearless cousin.

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Sort of sharp and liquorice and crunchy,

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so they work really well together.

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Add some orange to it.

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And little fennel tops, little aniseedy fronds.

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Mint, you can just roughly tear it in.

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When I was little I loved going to the bakery

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and sort of picking things out.

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I was very keen on doughnuts.

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So that would be my earliest memory of the experience of eating

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on my own and sort of picking something out on my own.

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And I recently met a child who was a far more sophisticated

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version of my kind of gluttonous eight-year-old self.

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I was doing a book signing at a shop in London.

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I said what are you doing here? Are you here with your mum or your dad?

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And he said, "No, I come here every Saturday morning to buy sushi." He came on his own.

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He'd sit on the steps of the shop and eat it on his own.

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And he was called Bertram.

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And I so wanted to be his friend

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and then he sort of disappeared off in to the ether

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and I will for ever wonder here he is and what he's doing

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because he's a boy after my own heart.

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So I'd like to dedicate my lunch to Bertram, actually.

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So, we've got the first stage done. Happy, fragrant little salad.

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We've got a really lovely sourdough.

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It's a good hearty loaf.

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Take a clove of garlic and rub the surface of the bread with it.

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It gets sealed in by the heat,

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without it sort of whooshing up in your face when you take a bight.

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My favourite bit, the cheese. It's a lovely, alabaster ball.

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Buffalo mozzarella.

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It's really soft, a bit like kind of, the wobbly bit on someone's arm.

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There's something about ripping a great,

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soft hunk of it off that is deeply, deeply satisfying.

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Our lovely yellow ribbons.

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The fennel, orange, mint and frond.

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And as I'm here on my own I can totally indulge.

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Having a little sort of artistic frond arrangement on my plate.

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No-one's here to mock me.

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So there is my ultimate selfish lunch.

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Totally thrilled I don't have to share it

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because I'm not very good at sharing to begin with.

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Particularly not good at sharing when faced with that.

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Now, pudding time and we're looking at B for blackberries,

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with those Hairy Bikers.

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You didn't pick those blackberries off a bush near here, did you?

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I was just thinking, you see these blackberries?

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If you found a blackberry bush close by where you live

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-and you found those on them, you'd kill for it, wouldn't you?

-Oh, aye.

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But that's what we just found this morning when we were out foraging.

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Yeah.

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-Down the fruit wholesalers.

-Well, you can't win them all, can you?

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-We're busy, you know!

-Right.

-Cooking stuff for you.

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You start with the usual thing when making sponges.

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Blend together 150g of butter

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and 150g of golden caster sugar.

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To this, we add the zest of a lemon.

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Now, if the butter's hard,

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just knock it about the bowl a bit with a wooden spoon

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and once it's softened slightly take it over to the electric mixer

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and blitz it there.

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Meanwhile, I need three eggs in a bowl, lightly whipped.

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The first mention of any sort of sponge was a sponge cake,

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referred to in a letter written by Jane Austen in 1808.

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Sponge pudding, which is steamed,

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arrived at the end of the 19th century.

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They're both made with the same basic ingredients of

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eggs and flour, which allows the mixture to rise.

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And, do you know, it was like a seminal moment

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in the world of baking and pudding making, when people first

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decided and realised that eggs could be used as a raising agent.

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First off, whisking half the eggs.

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Then, whisking half the flour.

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Then, the other half of your eggs.

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And by adding it bit by bit,

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you kind of ensure that it's not going to split.

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That means, kind of go all curdley.

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Now for the Bramley apples.

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Skin them, core them and cut them in to cubes about 2cm.

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These are nice, big, appley chunks that just sit in the duvet of sponge.

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Meanwhile, I'll prepare the pudding basin.

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Butter a basin, put a disc of greaseproof paper in the bottom.

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That sits there and it stops a seal being formed between the pudding and

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the basin. That will enable you to get your pudding out without it sticking.

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There's nothing worse after all the cooking, all the baking,

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all the foraging,

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getting your pudding stuck and it comes out looking like a...well, a cobbler.

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And you put these in to there.

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When the sponge cooks, there's going to be quite a lot of liquid

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comes out of the bramleys.

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Blackberries are our classic foraged ingredient.

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Now this is the lovely, Hairy Biker, tricksy, twisty bit.

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Just put a little kind of phalanx of blackberries

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on the bottom of the bowl.

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Now, obviously when we pop the pudding out they're going to

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be like proud little soldiers standing on the top.

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There you are, look. Nicely packed in the bottom.

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We reserve this to make a sauce for the top. That goes in.

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But blackberries are interesting.

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-There's over 2,000 varieties of blackberry.

-Is there?

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-And it's said that the blackberry leaves purify your blood.

-Ohhh.

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Every year we used to go out blackberrying with my mother

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and she'd make blackberry and apple pies.

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Bramble jelly was always a favourite. That was lovely.

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It was just like a thin, thin jam.

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But the thing about foraging is, it is seasonal.

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It's wonderful and you can actually define the seasons by what you're eating.

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Because we've got big hunks of apple in it, what we're going to do

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is we're just going to tamper the mixture down a little bit.

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There we are, brill.

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The mixture will expand, so take some greaseproof, put a pleat on.

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Then wrap it over the pudding bowl.

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Put the foil on next then.

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Then do the same thing with a layer of pleated foil to seal it up.

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The pleat will allow that paper and foil to expand,

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-so it's not just going to simply split and pop off.

-Tricky bit this.

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Tie the foil in place with some string,

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-leaving a bit left over to make a handle.

-Lovely.

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That gives us a nice little handle to drop our pudding in to the pan.

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Now, you notice in the pan we've put an upturned flan ring.

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That's like a trivet to rest the pudding on.

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You can use an upturned saucer, it's just

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so that this bottom doesn't rest on the bottom of the pan and catch.

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So, you put that on there,

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pop your pudding in, sitting nice on the trivet.

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Then pour water in up to about,

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kind of two or 3cm short of the top of the basin.

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Set it on a low simmer

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and allow it to bubble away for an hour and a half.

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Keep an eye on it to check it doesn't boil dry or else it'll

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ruin your pudding and your pan.

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That gives us time to make the sauce.

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It's a simple sauce made with blackberry jam

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and whole blackberries.

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Don't worry about those little stalks

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because we're going to sieve this off before we serve it.

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Take the rest of the lemon

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and squeeze out the juice into the fruit mix.

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Oh and these Amalfi lemons, they're like the caviar of the lemon world.

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-Beautiful, aren't they?

-Yeah.

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Like that that quintessentially Mediterranean sunshine in a lemon,

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-aren't they?

-I know.

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And I know it's cheating but we British,

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we're a nation of traders and it's just the thing you need after

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a cold day out foraging for your blackberries.

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Well, this is nice cos it's sweet-sour.

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But we need to cook this until these blackberries are soft,

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they're still quite hard at the minute.

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So let's just cook them down for a little bit further.

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Stir over a low heat for six to eight minutes.

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Look at the deep, red colour that is.

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So lovely, so autumnal, just lush.

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I think they're just about ready, mate.

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-Aye, they've disintegrated, haven't they?

-They have. Fabulous.

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I'll get the basin, sieve those off.

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Press the mixture through a sieve and in to a bowl.

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Look at that.

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It's fabulous, isn't it?

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Taste the sauce and add more sugar or lemon, as you prefer.

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-Right, that's perfect.

-Oh, yeah.

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Big, big flavour of fruit, blackberries.

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But it's sweet and sour. It's like sherbet, isn't it?

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It is. Oh, yes.

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Epic.

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All that's left now is to wait for the pud to cook.

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The moment of...

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-Cor, look at that.

-Oh, yes.

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There's pressure under there, Kingy. See that?

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-That's stretching like Nell Gwyn's bodice, isn't it?

-Ooh.

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-If this was a bosom, it would heave, wouldn't it?

-Beautiful, isn't it?

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All the chemistry's happened in that pan.

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-Right, should we unleash the beast?

-I think so.

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There's something that's always exciting about unpacking

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your pudding, isn't there?

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-There is.

-Has it worked? Has it happened? And will it come out.

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-Oh, that is epic man.

-Beautiful, oh.

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-This is the tricky bit, isn't it?

-Danger's over.

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Yeah, it's coming.

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-Apple chunky, yes. Look at that.

-Oh, yes.

-That's beautiful.

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Now that is an apple and blackberry, steamed, sponge pudding.

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This is what we like to refer to as the Vesuvius moment.

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Ahhhh.

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It's just screaming out for cream. Or ice cream, or home-made custard.

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That is flipping lovely.

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Bit of sauce on there like that. And now...

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Oh, yes.

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-You've got to get the berries of the top, haven't you?

-Yeah.

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-Ahh, that's absolutely gorgeous.

-It's great, isn't it?

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Do you know what's lovely?

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The sweetness of the sponge pudding, it's offset by the bramleys.

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It's quite a grown-up pudding this.

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It is and there's that lovely level of acidity in the blackberries

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-and the Amalfi lemon. Really nice.

-Yeah, yeah.

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-That is a foragers success.

-Oh, yeah.

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So we've reached the end of today's A To Z Of TV Cooking.

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Thanks again to all our amazing chefs and I hope you feel inspired.

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Make sure you join me next time for more delicious food. See you soon.

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