Letter T The A to Z of TV Cooking


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If you're in the market for a feast of fantastic food,

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you're in the right place. We've chosen the very best dishes from

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some of the nation's favourite chefs and we're serving them up alphabetically

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here on The A To Z Of TV Cooking.

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So today we're looking at all things linked by the letter T.

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And here's just some of what we've got on the menu.

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Rachel Khoo describes the best veg to stuff a trout with.

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Just pick out vegetables which have a low water content.

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If they're too watery, they'll release too many juices

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and then your fish will be swimming...

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in a water bath.

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SHE LAUGHS

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We get Angela Hartnett's recipe for a succulent turkey curry.

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Instead of having pasta with chicken or having a curry with chicken,

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always substitute it with turkey.

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You don't need to buy the whole bird, just buy a little breast

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from your butcher or from your supermarket and use it instead.

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A much healthier option for you.

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And Raymond Blanc's tips for a terrific tarte tatin.

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Not much work really, apart from the peeling so far.

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A bit of caramel, simple.

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Our first T is for tomato,

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and Nigel Slater has a delicious dish for us here,

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but he's also adding another T in the form of turmeric.

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I love using the really hot spices

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to give a dish masses of fiery heat.

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But equally I like using the softer,

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gentler spices

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to provide something actually more interesting.

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There's something very comforting about a warming, rustic meal.

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Tonight I'm going to cook a simple tomato stew

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given life and vigour with warm spices.

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Mild, sweet onions are the backbone for this dish.

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A couple roughly chopped go into a little oil.

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And there's always garlic, of course.

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I want the onions to cook until they're pale gold

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and have started to sweeten.

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That way the dish will have a mellowness,

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it won't have that fiery bite

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that you get when you stir-fry things.

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This is much gentler, it's softer.

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It's altogether about the flavour of the spices, not just their heat.

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But I do want a little heat in there,

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so I'm going to add some fresh chilli.

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Just one of these mild red ones with its fiery seeds removed.

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The recipe will be much gentler

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if I take those little white seeds away.

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Add some cumin seed,

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warm and pungent.

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A couple of teaspoons.

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And brown mustard seeds.

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They have a very mellowing effect.

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And a little bit of turmeric.

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This is what will really add the earthy notes.

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There's something very ancient about turmeric.

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It has that age-old flavour...

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..and gives a brilliant colour to your sauce.

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And straight away I'm smelling chillies and spices,

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but there's no real heat there.

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It's very different to when you use lots of fresh chillies.

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Softer and warmer.

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To that I'm going to add a can of tomatoes.

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And a little pot of water.

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There are so many things I could use this for.

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I've used it with fish or meat.

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We're actually going to use this as a sauce in which to cook tomatoes.

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These big vine tomatoes aren't just good in a salad.

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They're meaty enough to be the centrepiece of this dish.

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And what will happen is that the tomatoes will cook in their own

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spice and tomato-scented steam.

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After 25 minutes, the tomatoes should be cooked through.

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The dish itself is still a bit of a mystery.

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The only real way to see what's going on is to get a spoon in there

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and taste it.

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You can follow all the recipes in the world,

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but the only real way to tell is whether you like it or not.

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There's a softness to this, there's a mellowness,

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but I feel as if I want it to be...slightly richer.

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'I could add cream, but I think it needs the cooling tang of yoghurt.'

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Incredibly luscious.

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It's much smoother, it's got a softness to it.

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There's still spice there...

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but that spice has been cooled by the yoghurt.

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What wonderful tomato flavour.

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It's got the background of the spices,

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and then there's that little nip from the sharp yoghurt,

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and it's an altogether very successful dish.

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I'd be very happy to eat that as my supper.

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'Ample on its own, this recipe would work well with lamb or fish,

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'with its warm spices and its hint of yoghurt.

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'It's simple, versatile, and so full of flavour.'

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'Next, an example of Thai cooking,

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'a soup packed with super-punchy flavours.

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'This is Sophie Dahl with recipe for tom kha.'

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I've got everything here to make the most brilliant soup.

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Perfect for chasing away the dark days that have preceded.

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I'm going to be making a tom kha,

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which is the absolute in kind of anti-hibernation food.

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Like a rainbow after a storm,

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or the smell of wet grass after it's rained.

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That is what this is to the palate.

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It's all going to go in the blender,

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so everything can be roughly chopped.

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I've got one shallot, two garlic cloves,

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a chilli.

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If you really needed a kick up the arse,

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you could use the whole chilli with seeds and all,

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and then you'd forget what you had to complain about.

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Going to add some lemon grass and a good piece of ginger,

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and ginger's also famous as a sort of blues beater.

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Brings heat to the lifeless.

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The beginning of the soup is a paste.

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So easy. Blitz it all up.

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Zest a lime,

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followed by the juice.

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BLENDER WHIRRS

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It's very noisy!

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The head is now ready for it.

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Another magic ingredient, the lime leaf,

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which is just the most incredible-smelling thing...

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in the world.

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I've got some coriander here.

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It's the most life-affirming collection of flavours.

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Wow, that's just...

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..a sort of abundant, riotous...

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..bar-room brawl of a smell.

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Hits you...right in the eyes.

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I really associate Thai food with moving to London,

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living in a flat with a friend,

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and we had a really good Thai restaurant

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half a street away from us

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and we used to sit and have bowls of tom kha.

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I associate some comfort with it, that sort of...being in London

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on a cold November night and having this warming,

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nourishing...lively soup.

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So the heat really releases the flavour,

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so the kitchen, at this moment, is filled with a great big...

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shout of fragrance.

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Now the lovely coconut milk,

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which is the buffer against all of the spices,

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so it can still work if you're melancholy.

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It's like a ruffian wearing a cashmere cardie.

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A good dash of fish sauce,

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which just gives it a sort of undercut of sharpness.

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Got some vegetable stock here.

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Because this is a more robust phase,

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we're going to add some soba noodles to the water I've got boiling.

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Made with buckwheat, a sort of nutty, dark flour.

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Now for the amazing, slightly melancholic-looking prawns

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which, by the time I've finished with them, are going to be pink and happy,

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and doing the can-can.

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Going to add the mushrooms.

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We've got the enoki, which are like little old men in berets.

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Handful of them.

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Shitake mushroom.

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I'm a mushroom fiend

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so I want as many different types of mushroom as I can have in here.

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Lastly, putting in some sugar snaps,

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and they're going to give us the crunch.

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A bit more lime juice, then you've made this glowing green soup.

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On with the giant prawns, who are now looking decidedly cheerful.

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And the last in the arsenal, some Thai basil,

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which is a sweeter, more licqourice-y version

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than the basil we normally encounter.

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The smell would cheer up Scrooge.

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So, here it is, a feast for the senses...

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..my tom kha.

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I'm going to let it...

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wash away...

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the last cloud of melancholy.

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# My tears dry on their own... #

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'Now the first of a few fish dishes beginning with T.

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'It's a great-looking recipe using trout. Take it away, Rachel Khoo.'

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I'm going to make a trout in a parcel, en papillote,

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which is a great way of keeping all the flavours,

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it's healthy and really easy to do.

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We're going to start off by making our little marinade.

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Zest half a lemon.

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You can use any kind of fish you like.

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I like to use trout because it's a beautiful fish,

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it's got a lot of flavour, it's an oily fish, so it's very good for you.

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Half a teaspoon of salt, couple of generous pinches of pepper.

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And a good glug of olive oil.

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I'm going to make my paper parcel.

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You don't have to use baking paper, you could use aluminium foil,

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which is a little bit easier

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because you can just scrunch up the ends to seal it in.

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But I'm using the classic technique of using paper.

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When you come to measure out your paper,

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you want to give yourself a couple of inches on each side.

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Fish goes in.

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Now I'm going to use my marinade.

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'A quick rub outside and in

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'will give the whole fish a beautiful citrus flavour.'

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Don't be afraid to get your hands messy! It's more fun.

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Now, I've parboiled some baby potatoes.

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Just slice them in...big slices.

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What the potatoes do is they soak up some of the juices.

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Fennel.

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You just want half. I'm just going to take the not-so-nice bit off.

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My bin's broken!

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Just thinly slice it.

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The lovely aniseed flavour from the fennel,

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mixed with the lemon, is just going to be really yummy.

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If you don't want to use fennel, you could use leeks,

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you could use some red onions, because they're not too strong.

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Just pick out vegetables which have a low water content.

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If they're too watery, the vegetables,

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they'll release too many juices and then your fish will be swimming...

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SHE LAUGHS

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..in a water bath.

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A bit of string to tie my ends, and a pair of scissors.

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Whatever you're using, if you're using paper or aluminium foil,

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you want to make sure you seal it properly, so fold over the top.

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'This technique can be tricky to get right,

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'but, if you do, the end product should look like a sweet.'

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Oh! That was too tight!

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Got a bit too enthusiastic with that.

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OK, the parcel's nicely sealed.

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And that's going to probably take 15, 20 minutes.

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The great thing about cooking with papillote

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is you're less likely to overcook it, it's always going to stay moist.

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It's kind of a guaranteed way to cook fish.

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Let's have a look at our papillote.

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It certainly smells delicious, I can smell the lovely lemon flavours

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and the fennel, so let's have a look.

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This is a bit like Christmas, opening a present.

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Look at that.

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So, we've still got the lovely juices in there.

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Squeeze of lemon on top.

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I think it's just missing a big dollop of really creamy creme fraiche.

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Obviously, that's optional.

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What you're looking for with the fish being cooked

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is it should be opaque, the flesh.

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If you have a look... Wow, see, you can just peel the skin off

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like that, and, if you look, you can just flake away.

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'A classic French supper that would traditionally be served

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'with a fresh green salad.'

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Mmm, perfectly cooked.

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'The best things really do come in small packages.'

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'Time for another fish that begins with T.

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'It's the turbot, which is a real favourite of the Two Fat Ladies.'

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I'm cooking turbot with pickled walnuts and watercress.

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Now, I love turbot, it's a very good, thick, dense fish.

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And people say it's very expensive, but a little of it goes a lot further

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than some flimsy flibbertigibbet fish.

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Like plaice. Yes, exactly.

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And I'm going to put over this some sliced onions,

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and then I'm going to cover it with a combination of fish stock

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and white wine.

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When you're making your fish stock,

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buy things like cod or turbot or halibut bones, or Dover sole.

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Don't use oily fish bones,

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and even some very gelatinous fish is not good.

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Skate or monkfish doesn't make a good stock.

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I adore turbot, but I do consider it quite expensive.

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Well, treats...

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Yes, treats.

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And a bit of salt and pepper.

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And now I'm going to poach this for ten to 15 minutes.

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And, for the sauce,

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I'm just going to melt a bit of butter...

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and mash some pickled walnuts.

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I find they go terribly well with fish.

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I'm just going to...scrape these into the butter.

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Are they frying?

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Well, just gently melding, really, over a very low flame.

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They're quite remarkable, really, the Gurkhas, aren't they?

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It's extraordinary to think that this country at the top of the world,

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Nepal, their main export, their main industry,

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is producing these crack, brilliant, fearless troops.

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Yes, they're wonderful, and they're dead loyal.

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They've got more VCs than any other regiment in the British Army.

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Yes, I know. Fearless in battle, and absolutely sweet and gentle to meet!

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Just put these on a little dish,

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and now I'm going to pour some of the fish stock mixture

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in to the butter and pickled walnuts.

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Right, and into that I'm going to put my chopped watercress.

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And then I'm just going to pour it over the fish.

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Looks very exciting. And very delicious.

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And garnish it with a few halves of pickled walnuts.

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As you can see, if you're a very busy person,

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this would be excellent for a dinner party

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because it takes no time at all to cook,

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and if you wanted something more formal or flashy,

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you could use a whole turbot. Obviously, one of the smaller ones

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that are known colloquially as chicken turbot.

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CHATTER

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Where do GTW do theirs? Do they have a separate one?

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'and if you were asked to name a fish starting with T,

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'I think this would be the first to come to your mind.

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'Take it away, Tony and Giorgio, with tuna.'

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It's worth saying that it's the closest thing you're going to get

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to a piece of steak. Yeah.

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Good to introduce to the kids if they've never eaten fish.

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No bones, yeah? You want all the British nation to eat tuna?

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Well, it's healthy, isn't it? You import it and sell it, that's why!

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Well...you've got a point there, Giorgio!

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You're making an awful lot of money out of that, that's why!

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Vine tomatoes, nice and ripe. Rocket, yeah? Nice salad. Yeah.

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I want to do one of these very simple vinaigrette that you do,

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you know, you can keep in your fridge.

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Tony, will you get that out?

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What's the matter with you? It's slippery. I'm struggling, as well.

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Hold on. We're both struggling.

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Nah, let's have custard with it.

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THEY LAUGH

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There you go.

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You know, people go 20 meals, ten meals, this and that.

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No, forget about it. So we do two fingers of red wine vinegar,

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good quality if you can. Then one finger of water.

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Now you add three fingers of olive oil, right? Yeah.

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Tiny little bit of salt.

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That would give you a very balanced vinaigrette.

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Put a little bit on your hand...

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you taste it, and you make your mind up there and then.

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I like it like that, nice and sharp.

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One of the first things you do,

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you season your tomato with salt and pepper.

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Then you put a little bit of your vinaigrette...

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This is way, way before you actually start to cook the fish,

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because the cooking of the fish will take about two, three minutes.

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And then you give it a gentle - I repeat, a GENTLE - squeeze.

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What's going to happen is then the tomato leaves all that red...

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The juice, yeah. ..and the seeds. This is fantastic.

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This is going to make your salad altogether taste fantastic.

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At the last minute, you can add a little bit of the rocket,

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and that's going to be lovely and crispy,

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and you will see it's fantastic.

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Right.

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SIZZLING

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Can you hear it?

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And it cooks very, very quickly.

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Don't forget one thing, as well, it's quite important -

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you take it out to room temperature before you start to cook it.

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That's very important.

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What you try to achieve all the time

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is something that is rare in the middle, yet not cold.

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Well, that's coming up quite nicely now. I think we're ready for... Yes.

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You should have been an engineer or something like that.

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An architect. Look at that.

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Fantastic.

0:21:480:21:50

OK, he's cooking there, I'm going to clean a little bit of the rocket,

0:21:500:21:55

just by taking away a bit of the bottom.

0:21:550:21:58

You like it rare, Giorgio? I love it rare.

0:21:580:22:01

I haven't mixed it together, that's very, very important -

0:22:010:22:03

don't mix it together until, really, the last minute, OK?

0:22:030:22:07

Where's your plate? Plates are there.

0:22:070:22:10

OK, nearly there? Yeah, I'm there.

0:22:100:22:12

OK, so I got my salad in, I give them a little stir with the tongs.

0:22:120:22:18

Be gentle, don't squeeze it too much in your hand. Ready? Yeah, you go.

0:22:200:22:24

Nice one. That is what you call a nice dish. Quick, simple lunch.

0:22:300:22:34

How's yours, Giorgio? How is it? Hold on a minute.

0:22:340:22:38

A bit of oil on top, no?

0:22:380:22:40

Nah, you don't need it, you've got enough oil on it.

0:22:400:22:42

No, a little bit of oil.

0:22:420:22:44

You don't like oil in the fryer, you like it all over the food.

0:22:440:22:46

It's good for you, it's when it's... Beautiful.

0:22:460:22:50

You can see that, still quite raw.

0:22:500:22:53

Look at that. Mmm.

0:22:550:22:58

Lovely, eh? Mmm.

0:23:000:23:02

So now a question for you.

0:23:030:23:06

How often do you cook turkey, besides at Christmas?

0:23:060:23:09

Many of us don't give it much of a go at any other time of the year.

0:23:090:23:13

But to fix that,

0:23:130:23:14

here's Angela Hartnett with a really good-looking turkey curry.

0:23:140:23:18

To start with, we are going to prepare our paste for our curry.

0:23:210:23:24

We're going to start with some onion.

0:23:240:23:27

Roughly chop up the onions, followed by garlic and chilli.

0:23:270:23:31

Just do enough to suit your taste buds.

0:23:310:23:35

You can...some curries will tell you to keep the seeds in,

0:23:350:23:39

I tend to remove them because I don't want it so spicy.

0:23:390:23:41

But I do like to add a good dose of ginger.

0:23:430:23:47

Blitz.

0:23:470:23:49

Then throw in a few coriander seeds, sugar and a touch of tamarind paste.

0:23:490:23:54

That's your base for your curry.

0:23:560:23:59

Something like this is perfect to store in the fridge or freezer.

0:23:590:24:02

If you make a large amount and you don't use it all,

0:24:020:24:05

it's a perfect thing to put in a little jar

0:24:050:24:07

and you've got it for three or four days afterwards.

0:24:070:24:09

What I love about turkey is that it's so incredibly versatile.

0:24:120:24:16

One of the athletes we spoke to,

0:24:160:24:18

he uses it as a substitute for chicken.

0:24:180:24:20

Instead of having pasta with chicken or a curry with chicken,

0:24:200:24:24

he always substitutes it with turkey.

0:24:240:24:25

You don't need to buy the whole bird, just buy a little bit of the breast

0:24:250:24:28

from your butcher or from your supermarket and use it instead.

0:24:280:24:31

Much healthier option.

0:24:310:24:33

Slice the turkey into even strips so they saute at the same cooking speed.

0:24:330:24:38

Gently fry, along with some crushed garlic and thyme.

0:24:390:24:44

You only want to sear them. You want to keep the juices from the turkey.

0:24:490:24:53

Because it is lean and full of protein,

0:24:530:24:55

it doesn't have its natural fat,

0:24:550:24:56

so you don't want to sear it too quickly and make it too dry.

0:24:560:24:59

You want it to cook slowly in the curry to absorb all the flavour.

0:24:590:25:04

Heat up the paste, then return the turkey to the pan,

0:25:040:25:07

making sure the pieces are evenly coated.

0:25:070:25:09

Then add the potato.

0:25:110:25:14

These do have to go in at this stage as opposed to right at the end

0:25:140:25:17

because these are raw and will need to cook for at least 15 minutes.

0:25:170:25:20

For the sauce, pour in a tin of coconut milk.

0:25:210:25:24

Followed by turkey stock.

0:25:250:25:26

Just going to bring it up to a lovely simmer now

0:25:260:25:30

and cook it for 15 to 20 minutes so that the turkey is cooked,

0:25:300:25:33

the potatoes are cooked and you have that lovely, thick sauce to coat it.

0:25:330:25:38

Cover, preferably with grease-proof paper.

0:25:380:25:40

The beauty of the grease-proof is you can see through it,

0:25:400:25:43

you can see what is going on

0:25:430:25:44

and you know when it's coming up to a little simmer.

0:25:440:25:47

So we are going to leave that for about 20 minutes.

0:25:470:25:50

Let's be honest, we're all going to cook turkey at Christmas,

0:25:520:25:54

so here's a few tips to make your life easier.

0:25:540:25:57

Make sure you bring your turkey out the night before

0:25:570:25:59

so it comes up to room temperature.

0:25:590:26:01

Also, I like to wrap my bird in foil so it's like a big pocket round it,

0:26:010:26:05

lots of butter on there, lots of bacon

0:26:050:26:07

and put some water into your roasting dish

0:26:070:26:10

so it lightly steams your turkey.

0:26:100:26:12

Then just before it is ready to go, unwrap the turkey from the foil

0:26:120:26:16

and allow it to roast so you have that beautiful, caramelised turkey.

0:26:160:26:20

The curry has been simmering for about 20 minutes now.

0:26:210:26:23

I'm going to add the final ingredients.

0:26:230:26:26

Finally, just add in all our spinach,

0:26:260:26:30

and that's just going to wilt down very loosely in the curry.

0:26:300:26:34

And also our coriander.

0:26:340:26:36

If you want to, you can add a little bit of mint as well in there.

0:26:360:26:39

That's the beauty of any sort of curry, you can add adapt the flavours.

0:26:390:26:43

We're using turkey, so it's really very good for you,

0:26:430:26:46

there's hardly any fat in that. It is really healthy.

0:26:460:26:50

Finish off with a sprinkling of toasted almonds and it's done.

0:26:500:26:54

My delicious turkey curry.

0:26:540:26:56

Mm. That really is a perfect way to have turkey.

0:27:000:27:04

You've got the spices coming through, the coriander,

0:27:040:27:06

the coconut, the chilli. The turkey is so moist.

0:27:060:27:10

Everyone moans about it being dry, but if you cook it really slowly,

0:27:100:27:13

for 20 or 25 minutes, it really is lovely and moist.

0:27:130:27:17

A perfect way to eat turkey. Couldn't ask for a better dish.

0:27:170:27:20

Eggs play a key part in our next dish.

0:27:240:27:27

But they're not what we're focusing on first.

0:27:270:27:29

We're joining Valentine Warner and he is on a mission,

0:27:290:27:32

desperately trying to get his hands on the elusive British truffle.

0:27:320:27:37

As summer fades, the still-warm, but damper conditions transform fields

0:27:370:27:41

and forests across Britain into one of the prettiest, tastiest

0:27:410:27:45

and, sometimes, deadliest of natural larders.

0:27:450:27:48

The fairy wonderland of incredible fungal forms

0:27:500:27:53

captivated me as a child, and as a grown-up cook,

0:27:530:27:56

the edible fruits of an autumnal ramble are no less exciting.

0:27:560:28:00

But there is one seasonal treat that has so far eluded me.

0:28:000:28:05

The British truffle is the top of my culinary hit list.

0:28:050:28:09

Before I die, I really hope to find one and take it home to cook.

0:28:090:28:13

Like all the best things in life,

0:28:150:28:16

the British black truffle is notoriously hard to find.

0:28:160:28:20

But today, I've been invited to a secret hot-spot

0:28:200:28:24

in the Peak District by Dr Paul Thomas,

0:28:240:28:26

one of the UK's top truffle experts,

0:28:260:28:29

and I've got a good feeling in my bones.

0:28:290:28:31

I'm very, very excited about today.

0:28:310:28:33

Good. It's nice to go mushroom-hunting with someone who's really into it.

0:28:330:28:37

Nice to go mushroom hunting...I'm in the presence of the king of truffles.

0:28:370:28:41

Onwards, towards little black, hard balls of glory.

0:28:410:28:44

It's not just truffles we are after today.

0:28:460:28:49

There's loads of other mushroom goodies to be an unearthed

0:28:490:28:52

in this shady patch of ancient woodland.

0:28:520:28:54

For every edible wild mushroom,

0:28:540:28:56

there are at least 30 you would not want to touch.

0:28:560:28:59

So be certain before you try anything.

0:28:590:29:02

It's very tempting to be greedy when picking wild fungi,

0:29:020:29:05

but good mushroom etiquette dictates

0:29:050:29:07

you only pick a handful of what is available.

0:29:070:29:09

Always use a knife to avoid damaging its delicate underground parts.

0:29:090:29:13

An Amethyst Deceiver? Yeah, you're right. This is fairy stuff.

0:29:150:29:19

A bright purple mushroom - this is little chattering voices in the trees

0:29:190:29:23

and whizzing wings kind of a mushroom. Exactly.

0:29:230:29:25

It may be a relief to hear some of our best tasting wild mushrooms

0:29:270:29:30

are harvested commercially and can be bought fairly easily.

0:29:300:29:33

One of the greatest mushrooms known to mankind. The cepe or penny bun.

0:29:390:29:44

Yeah. Yes, that really is a pleasure to behold.

0:29:440:29:46

In my top ten of British wild fungi,

0:29:480:29:50

the cepe probably comes in at number two.

0:29:500:29:53

It's almost impossible to resist raw temptation. That's deep, man.

0:29:530:29:57

As we reach Paul's last truffle tip, we're running out of light and time,

0:29:590:30:03

but it feels promising.

0:30:030:30:05

My hopes are really, really up.

0:30:050:30:07

I feel now we're where we should be. Get scraping.

0:30:070:30:11

I set off this morning determined to fulfil one of my life's dreams -

0:30:120:30:16

to uncover my first wild British truffle.

0:30:160:30:19

All good things come to those who wait.

0:30:190:30:22

But after countless minor excavations and dusk rapidly approaching,

0:30:220:30:27

reality is sinking in.

0:30:270:30:29

Looking for the elusive truffle has been a great, great joy.

0:30:300:30:34

It's been a fantastic day.

0:30:340:30:35

But here I am smelling my 5,000th bit of rotting wood matter.

0:30:350:30:40

I think I'm admitting defeat.

0:30:400:30:42

Free, black British truffles are pretty hard to come by,

0:30:430:30:46

but you can buy them from posh grocers

0:30:460:30:48

from around 30 quid for 100 grams.

0:30:480:30:50

Today, however, I am a lucky man.

0:30:530:30:55

Paul has brought along an amazing personal stash

0:30:550:30:57

of propagated black truffles for us to sample.

0:30:570:31:00

Wow! Yeah, it's a good smell, isn't it? It's punchy.

0:31:020:31:05

So these eggs are really going to be penetrated with truffle.

0:31:050:31:08

We're going to scramble truffle eggs with more on top.

0:31:080:31:11

Sounds very good to me.

0:31:110:31:12

So I can get as much in my mouth before I go as possible. Let's go.

0:31:120:31:15

I don't know what you think,

0:31:180:31:20

but I like my scrambled eggs with absolutely no milk in them at all.

0:31:200:31:24

Sounds good to me.

0:31:240:31:26

Double yolker. Lucky. Can we go truffle bonkers? Absolutely.

0:31:280:31:33

Look at that flecked marble, just so pretty.

0:31:360:31:39

We both like it nice and runny. Yeah, absolutely.

0:31:400:31:43

No pepper, I think, just truffle and eggs. Forget toast. You first.

0:31:450:31:50

Thank you. This looks excellent.

0:31:500:31:51

Oh, my God, that is really, really good. Really good.

0:31:560:32:01

That is intensely truffle-y. It is really good. Really good.

0:32:020:32:09

I needed that.

0:32:090:32:11

This would make a fabulous Sunday-morning treat.

0:32:110:32:14

How can something so utterly simple - butter, eggs and truffle -

0:32:140:32:18

deliver such a serious, grown-up, full-on whopper of a dish?

0:32:180:32:25

Yeah. That's the truffle, that's the truffle. That is the truffle.

0:32:250:32:30

Big up the truffle. Big up the truffle indeed.

0:32:300:32:32

Our next T is for tart. They can be sweet, they can be savoury.

0:32:350:32:39

Rick Stein first with a bacon tart.

0:32:390:32:42

Before he starts cooking,

0:32:420:32:43

he wants to be sure he has got the bacon exactly right.

0:32:430:32:47

Much to the relief of the camera crew,

0:32:510:32:53

we left the metropolis for broader skies.

0:32:530:32:55

I did 14,000 miles zigzagging across the country.

0:32:570:33:00

And now I'm in Ayrshire for its world-famous bacon, Ramsays.

0:33:000:33:05

What we have here is the middle.

0:33:070:33:09

The middle is the combination of what would be the back bacon here

0:33:090:33:12

and the streaky bacon here.

0:33:120:33:14

The Scottish way of doing this is to roll the streaky right in here,

0:33:140:33:18

which gives you a nice combination with the flavour of the fat

0:33:180:33:22

in the streaky along with the lean muscle on the back.

0:33:220:33:25

How come you don't put all the kinds of things in your brine,

0:33:260:33:29

like bay leaves and brown sugar

0:33:290:33:31

and molasses and juniper berries and all that?

0:33:310:33:35

We produce traditional Scottish bacon

0:33:350:33:36

and traditional Scottish bacon is simple cure,

0:33:360:33:39

which means we keep the flavours.

0:33:390:33:41

We're not adding flavour, the flavour is already there.

0:33:410:33:44

Why change it?

0:33:440:33:45

All these things can be added if we want, it's not that difficult.

0:33:450:33:49

But we sell traditional bacon and that's the way it is.

0:33:490:33:52

That's the way it is going to be.

0:33:520:33:54

The cure is still the same.

0:33:540:33:55

It's something we can have pride in when we're finished.

0:33:550:33:58

We don't mind people taking it away and somebody has bacon and says,

0:33:580:34:00

"That's nice, I like that. Where did it come from?"

0:34:000:34:03

I can stand and say, "That's mine, I did it."

0:34:030:34:06

After we visited Andrew Ramsay's bacon factory in Ayrshire,

0:34:060:34:09

he took me back to his house and just made me a simple bacon butty.

0:34:090:34:14

The point of it was just to show that there is no liquid,

0:34:140:34:17

no water whatsoever in his bacon. It was really good.

0:34:170:34:21

However, I think this allows his bacon to shine.

0:34:210:34:24

It's an Alsace bacon and onion tart.

0:34:240:34:27

First of all, I'm going to make a very, very shortcrust pastry

0:34:270:34:32

that my mum used to make.

0:34:320:34:34

Into the bowl with some hard butter, like that.

0:34:340:34:37

Just cutting it up a little

0:34:370:34:39

and then I am going to do it in the old-fashioned way with my fingertips

0:34:390:34:43

because I feel much more assured making a shortcrust by hand.

0:34:430:34:47

Obviously, you can use a machine. Next, some lard.

0:34:470:34:51

Actually, it's slightly more fat to flour in there

0:34:510:34:54

and that makes it really, really short.

0:34:540:34:57

Next goes in a generous teaspoon of salt.

0:34:570:35:00

I know that might seem a lot,

0:35:000:35:02

but it doesn't taste the same to me without it.

0:35:020:35:05

Now I add about a couple of tablespoons of water, no more,

0:35:050:35:08

it needs to be as dry as possible.

0:35:080:35:10

The more water you put in, the less short the pastry becomes.

0:35:100:35:14

I'm going to blind-bake the pastry case.

0:35:160:35:19

That's because the flan filling takes much less time to cook.

0:35:190:35:23

I'm pricking the base with a fork just to stop it rising.

0:35:230:35:26

It will only take about 15 minutes in the oven.

0:35:260:35:29

I'm using these beans to shore up the edges of the pastry.

0:35:290:35:33

If you're a really serious chef, of course, you can use ceramic beans.

0:35:330:35:36

But I like the smell of the hot beans as they come out of the hot oven.

0:35:360:35:40

For my filling, I'm using goose fat to soften up some onions.

0:35:410:35:45

I don't know why, but potatoes roasted in goose fat

0:35:450:35:49

feel lighter and taste sweeter than anything.

0:35:490:35:51

I've got to remember to get the pastry out of the oven

0:35:510:35:54

and allow it to cool. It just needs to take on an even, golden colour.

0:35:540:36:00

Now I cut some lardons of Ayrshire bacon and add them to the onions.

0:36:000:36:04

It's very important to cook everything down like this.

0:36:040:36:07

I bet some people would just throw everything into the pastry case.

0:36:070:36:11

Finally, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

0:36:110:36:14

I suppose this is really like a quiche Lorraine.

0:36:160:36:19

It reminds me of the '60s and '70s quiche.

0:36:190:36:21

You couldn't really go to an arts centre party without

0:36:210:36:25

the obligatory tray of rather cold and rather stodgy quiche Lorraine.

0:36:250:36:30

I suppose that's where the expression

0:36:300:36:32

"real men don't eat quiche" came from.

0:36:320:36:34

A good, well-cured bacon is worth the effort involved in finding it.

0:36:360:36:41

Just as it is with good, free-range eggs,

0:36:410:36:43

great cheeses and real ale, for that matter.

0:36:430:36:46

I'm adding some double cream to three eggs to make the custard.

0:36:460:36:50

And now a little more seasoning, some salt,

0:36:500:36:52

a few turns of the black pepper mill

0:36:520:36:55

and finally a few rasps of the nutmeg grater.

0:36:550:37:01

It's so satisfying to see the mixture fill up those little pockets

0:37:030:37:06

and craters, and so annoying when you find you haven't made enough.

0:37:060:37:10

Not with my recipes of course!

0:37:100:37:12

Well, to those of you who have only had cold, arts centre quiche,

0:37:130:37:17

this will be a real treat, straight out of the oven.

0:37:170:37:20

This is much better than the one I had in the arts centre

0:37:220:37:25

discussing the story of Peter Greenaway's Draughtsman's Contract.

0:37:250:37:29

I still don't understand that film.

0:37:300:37:32

Nor do I, so I can't help you there.

0:37:340:37:36

But here's something you should have no trouble following.

0:37:360:37:39

It's a sweet tart this time.

0:37:390:37:41

Raymond Blanc's take on the French classic tarte tatin.

0:37:410:37:45

Raymond's next recipe is another French favourite - tarte tatin.

0:37:530:37:57

Sticky, caramelised apples,

0:37:570:38:00

gently baked and upended onto buttery puff pastry.

0:38:000:38:02

I'm going to bring another wonderful, huge French classic

0:38:060:38:09

which has been exported across the world,

0:38:090:38:11

and it is known as the tarte tatin

0:38:110:38:13

First, Raymond prepares the caramel.

0:38:150:38:17

He adds a dash of water

0:38:170:38:19

and 100 grams of caster sugar to a heatproof baking dish.

0:38:190:38:23

I've got a syrup at the moment. That's called a syrup.

0:38:230:38:26

This will take about five, seven minutes

0:38:260:38:28

according to the strength of the gas underneath.

0:38:280:38:32

According to the moon... No, no, no. Not the moon. Not today.

0:38:330:38:38

The caramel is cooked until it turns the right colour.

0:38:410:38:44

It's blonde, it's sweet.

0:38:440:38:46

What I want is to cook the caramel to a beautiful auburn.

0:38:460:38:50

By cooking it, I bring a bit of acidity, I remove some of the sugar.

0:38:500:38:55

Little undertones of bitterness.

0:38:550:38:57

Next, Raymond adds 60 grams of butter

0:38:570:39:00

to make the caramel glossy and smooth.

0:39:000:39:02

If it's melted, it's going to burn into it.

0:39:020:39:06

If it's cold, it's going to stop the cooking

0:39:060:39:08

and get emulsified with the caramel.

0:39:080:39:10

That's perfect. Look at that glorious, glorious caramel.

0:39:100:39:14

While the caramel cools a little,

0:39:160:39:17

Raymond prepares the main ingredient.

0:39:170:39:20

Picking the right variety is key.

0:39:200:39:23

When you start thinking of apples, imagine, you've got 2,000 varieties.

0:39:230:39:28

You have got a lot of choice but, actually,

0:39:280:39:31

amongst all these apples which are perfect for tarte tatin,

0:39:310:39:37

the best for me is Braeburn. Why?

0:39:370:39:39

Because their flesh is beautiful and yellow and rich.

0:39:390:39:44

You want that fresh taste.

0:39:440:39:45

Raymond peels, cores and halves 12 Braeburn apples.

0:39:480:39:52

We have this lovely caramel that I have kept warm a little bit.

0:39:520:39:56

Make sure it is warm. What I do, I become Raymond the builder.

0:39:560:40:02

So, voila. Against each other.

0:40:020:40:05

Imagine that thickness of apple.

0:40:050:40:08

That apple experience you are going to have. It's not about pretty.

0:40:080:40:12

You have got to think, when it is cooked,

0:40:120:40:15

it has got to be tight or your apple will collapse.

0:40:150:40:18

It's easy. Press.

0:40:180:40:20

You know when it's ready, that thing, when you press, it starts to rise.

0:40:200:40:25

They are trying to get out of the pan. I would as well.

0:40:250:40:28

Raymond brushes the top of the apples with butter

0:40:280:40:31

to create a silky glaze during cooking.

0:40:310:40:33

The dish is then ready to go in the oven at 180 degrees.

0:40:330:40:37

Not much work, really.

0:40:370:40:38

A bit of peeling so far, a bit of caramel, simple.

0:40:380:40:43

I didn't say voila.

0:40:490:40:51

After 30 minutes in the oven, the tart is ready for the puff pastry

0:40:520:40:56

which will form the base of the dessert.

0:40:560:40:58

Raymond's is home-made, but ready-made will be fine.

0:40:580:41:01

Make sure your puff pastry is frozen.

0:41:030:41:07

Place it frozen onto the apple

0:41:070:41:09

and then the apple is very easy to work with.

0:41:090:41:12

They are half-frozen now.

0:41:130:41:15

And I want it firm.

0:41:150:41:16

Adam? The servants these days, they are never there.

0:41:180:41:22

Tom, can you put that in the blast freezer, please?

0:41:240:41:28

The freezer will do. No problem. Thank you very much.

0:41:280:41:31

After a few minutes in the freezer, the buttery puff pastry is ready.

0:41:310:41:36

Frozen. I'm warming it up a little bit with my hands.

0:41:360:41:39

I have got very warm hands, I'm very lucky. Tres bien. That's it.

0:41:390:41:43

Now I'm going to cut it.

0:41:430:41:45

And I'm going to just simply wrap it up.

0:41:500:41:55

Raymond tucks the pastry around the apples.

0:41:550:41:58

Piercing it allows steam to escape, keeping the pastry crisp.

0:41:580:42:02

That will take about 40 minutes at temperature 180 degrees.

0:42:020:42:07

After 40 minutes in the oven, the tart can be left to cool

0:42:070:42:10

before it is turned upside down for serving.

0:42:100:42:13

Ready to eat now. Absoluement.

0:42:170:42:19

I think for many Frenchmen,

0:42:190:42:21

this dessert represents what is really good about France.

0:42:210:42:26

Augustine. Yes, Chef.

0:42:400:42:42

I decided to invite you for a little bit of a break.

0:42:420:42:46

To celebrate the tarte tatin.

0:42:460:42:48

What do you think, colour of the caramel? What does it tell you?

0:42:500:42:55

It tells you how sweet the caramel is going to taste.

0:42:550:42:58

If it's very dark, it can be quite bitter.

0:42:580:43:00

The apples are cooked through but they still have a nice shape,

0:43:000:43:03

they're not falling everywhere. So, marks out of ten?

0:43:030:43:09

I'll have to give it a ten, Chef.

0:43:090:43:11

What a delicious way to end today's show. I hope you all enjoyed it.

0:43:140:43:18

Thanks again to our wonderful chefs and I'll see you again next time.

0:43:180:43:22

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