Best Of The A to Z of TV Cooking


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We've got some of the greatest dishes from your favourite TV chefs and we

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are serving them up alphabetically, here on the A to Z of TV Cooking.

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Today we have picked out some of the best of our A-to-Zs.

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Here is just some of what is on the menu.

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A culinary history lesson from Rachel Khoo.

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A dish that was created in the 1980s by the Reblochon cheesemakers.

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-A speedy razor clam dish from the Hairy Bikers.

-Look, there's one.

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Look at them!

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And creative masterclass with Raymond Blanc's cafe creme.

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So let's start where every good alphabet starts, A is for Apple.

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And here is Nigel Slater with a savoury take

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on a good old-fashioned apple crumble.

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I am not the sort of cook who travels the world trying to find weird

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things to eat. But I do like to ring the changes.

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And much more fun, to my mind, is to make something I know very well.

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Something familiar. And give it a new lease of life. Give it a surprise.

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So I am taking an unusual approach to one of my favourites. Apple crumble.

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I want to play with the flavours and make a savoury version.

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Something to try with a Sunday roast, or even alongside some sausages.

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Half a dozen apples should be enough.

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There are two ways to approach the filling for a crumble.

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You either cook the food from raw with the crumble topping on it,

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or you just give the fruit a few minutes in a pan with a little

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bit of butter, to start with.

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So often cooking is about getting something on the table

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at the end of the day. It is about feeding the hungry hordes.

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But I think it can also be about having a little bit of fun.

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A rainy afternoon, a few ingredients, and just...playing a bit.

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These apples just need a few minutes to stew.

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Plenty of time to make my crumble topping. It starts in the usual way.

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Butter, flour.

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I'm just going to rub the butter into the flour,

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which you can do in a food processor, and takes seconds.

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But I like the feel of food in my hands, particularly baking.

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I just end up with a good, rich, basic crumble.

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Check the apples, see how they are coming on.

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Now, they are looking good. Nice and soft.

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I'm going to put in a little bit of Madeira. Could have used Marsala.

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Just something to give it a grown-up flavour. So far, so traditional.

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But I want my crumble to be a bit different.

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Time for the savoury twist. Apples and cheese.

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One of life's perfect marriages.

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So, I'm going to grate into that a little bit of Parmesan cheese.

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A good strong Parmesan will add real flavour to this.

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Probably need three or four tablespoons.

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Breadcrumbs will add to the savoury edge and crisp up beautifully.

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Just thinking of something that will work with the apples.

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Maybe a little bit of thyme. Lemon thyme.

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It just adds that extra little bit of freshness.

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Lemon thyme works well in stuffing. And will add a delicate freshness.

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So, the apple is really quite soft.

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And it has soaked up a little bit of that alcohol.

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And then, gets its crumble topping.

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Final shower of Parmesan, into the oven it goes.

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I am grateful for the rain today.

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It is a wonderful excuse to stay inside, pour myself a drink,

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and just enjoy the scent of baking.

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It is deeply savoury from the cheese and thyme.

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But there is definitely the sweetness of apple in there too.

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Looks like a crumble.

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Something very familiar and friendly about that.

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I am expecting pudding but I am actually getting something

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that reminds me of an old-fashioned Ploughman's lunch.

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With a big lump of cheese and an apple.

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It would be a really nice thing to have on the side

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with some cold roast meat.

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Quite unusual, but it is a success.

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The cheese has made a classic apple crumble into something

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intriguing, for very little effort.

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I would happily eat this for supper any day of the week.

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And especially with sausages.

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And we are off to the Caribbean for our next best of letter. Which is J.

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And it stands for a style of cooking. Jerk cooking in fact.

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It originated in Jamaica which is where we are meeting Levi Roots.

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For centuries these Caribbean islands have

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been at the crossroads of global trade.

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And their cuisine combines flavours from all over the world.

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But if all this looks a bit exotic, don't worry.

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The good news is you don't have to travel around the world to

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get your ingredients.

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Everything I'm going to cook in this series you can get

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hold of in your local shops.

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And to make it really easy you could put together a little treasure

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chest with the ingredients we will use again and again.

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Let's call it a sunshine kit.

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If you have got these essentials in your kitchen,

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Caribbean cooking will be a breeze.

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I have put in ginger, which adds heat as well as flavour. How much?

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-Five dollars.

-That is Jamaican dollars, by the way. Allspice,

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or pimento. Scotch Bonnet pepper, my favourite.

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These are one of the world's hottest chilli peppers.

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You have any nutmeg there, lady?

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Lord have mercy! Fantastic. Fresh nutmeg.

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Next, some sweet-scented thyme.

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I have got to say, this is really fresh stuff.

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And finally, a bit of bay leaf.

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Now, in there I should have everything

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I need to bring a bit of sunshine to your kitchen.

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Lots of these flavours go into the most popular fast-food in Jamaica.

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The legendary jerk chicken.

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You see these oil drum barbecues, called jerk pans,

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everywhere across the Caribbean.

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Jerk has been described as Jamaica's culinary gift to the world.

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And it has a rich history.

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Jerk is a spicy seasoning rubbed in with chicken, pork, fish,

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or pretty much anything!

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The cooking method is said to have been used by Jamaica's

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original inhabitants, the Arawak Indians.

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They laid their meat on pimento wood strips in a fire pit.

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Perhaps the world's first barbecue.

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Do you know, jerk is just not about how you cook it?

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It is the spices you use and what you put in it.

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So today I'm going to make my sticky jerk wings with sugared oranges.

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This is first-rate finger food.

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A modern twist on traditional jerk flavours.

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I have kept the spice but added a delicious sweetness with honey.

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A fantastic accompaniment are these sugared orange slices,

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which are caramelised on the barbecue.

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First I'm going to need four spring onions. Get rid of the ugly bits.

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Chop them roughly.

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Because I am going to put them in a pestle and mortar.

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Next, I'm going to plunder that fabulous Caribbean sunshine kit.

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Two tablespoons of thyme leaves.

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I am not going to chop these, I'm just going to flake off the leaves.

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One Scotch Bonnet pepper. And I'm going to choose a red one.

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You know, Scotch Bonnet pepper is always optional.

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Jerk is not about the heat, it is

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about the flavours of the spices that you put together.

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A knob of ginger. Chop that up finely.

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I'm going to put all this lot into a pestle and mortar.

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There are two kinds of seasoning for jerk.

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The first one is what you call dry seasoning.

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Then you have the wet rub, which is what I'm going to make.

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I am going to add 100 mls of cider vinegar.

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One teaspoonful of cinnamon.

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Three tablespoons of honey. Next, pimento, or allspice.

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Two tablespoons of olive oil.

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Add a bit of salt and pepper, mash it up,

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and then transfer it to a bowl.

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The sweetness and the spices are a lip-smacking combination. Wow!

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Some really fresh chicken wings here. Just pop them in.

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Just going to leave this for about four hours, to marinade.

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But better still, overnight. But, you know what?

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I have got some already prepared.

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I have made myself a little barbecue here.

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Just as I would as a little boy. Nothing fancy. Have a look.

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Once you have put them on the barbecue,

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turn them every couple of minutes or so.

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This stunning spot happens to be a sugar plantation.

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Sugar has long been a core crop in Jamaica.

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I am serving my sticky jerk chicken wings with sugared orange slices.

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Quarter your oranges and coat them generously in the sugar.

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I know, it is exciting! I think you can see where I'm going with this.

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Add the oranges, sugared side down.

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Once they get brown, just turned them over.

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These are so easy, but so delicious. Have a go on your barbecue.

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And now, to round the day off, a little local spectacle.

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Burning the cane.

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In preparation for the harvesters, the cane field is set on fire to

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clear away all the leftover brushwood.

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Leaving just the cane stalks.

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There is nothing like dinner by the fire!

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Now, time for desert. And we have got one here, with two L ingredients.

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It is a lemon and lime cream tart.

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-And your chef this time, Jamie Oliver.

-Woo hoo!

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-What do you want me to do, Jamie?

-Can you wash those limes?

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-We are only going to get the zest of those.

-What are you making, Jamie?

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Lemon and lime cream tart. Dead simple.

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I have got a pastry shell in the freezer.

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And I think, short pastry, sweet, short pastry,

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is best out of the freezer, straight in the oven.

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And it doesn't seem to shrink or anything like that.

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If you put your pastry in and the filling in,

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the pastry will be soggy at the bottom.

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So...

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For the filling, basically what I need, get a bowl, eight eggs,

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just break them in there, the whole lot. Right.

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I need some sugar in here. I need 340g.

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So, I have just chucked the sugar in here with the eggs.

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Just whisk it until it is kind of pale. And all dissolved.

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Lee is a big desert freak. Aren't you, mate?

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-I always save a little bit of space for desert.

-A little bit of space!

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He likes extra large portions, yes! Uncle Lee doing a fine job.

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A slow job.

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Yeah, but some of the best things in life are slow, aren't they, mate?

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-Have I got enough?

-Beautiful. Lee has done a fine job.

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Look at that green.

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That is dead cool. That looks good and it will taste right good.

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Immediate flavour.

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-Right, let's get about six lemons.

-You want me to cut these in half?

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Yes, if you can cut these in half,

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and I will start juicing along with you. I need 300 millilitres.

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Generally I do a little bit more lime than lemon,

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because it is not quite as strong in flavour.

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At least not when it is cooked anyway.

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-Why do you not use one of those lemon squeezers? Is it easier?

-Yeah.

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It is easier. But I haven't got one!

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Of all the toys in my kitchen, I haven't got a lemon squeezer.

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There is something about squeezing that I like.

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-You have got a very good squeezing action.

-Yes, proud of it!

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Do you cook together a lot, you two?

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Yeah, Lee has cooked a couple of delights for me. Do you remember?

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-What was that?

-It was about four years ago.

-That long ago?

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-Fisherman's surprise.

-No, captain's delight.

-What?

-Captain's delight.

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-Captain's delight.

-Yeah, it was so good I couldn't remember the name!

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It was, Lee went on a bit of a mission, he made a ship,

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-constructed a ship out of toast.

-And baked beans.

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And he made this sea of baked beans.

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And by the time I'd finished it I had got to the bottom of the sea

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and there was a chest of treasure which happened to be a big chunk

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of rather mature old plastic cheese at the bottom.

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It's what you call an interactive meal, isn't it, eh?

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-Interact?

-You are searching for something.

-Shut up!

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Right, let's just have a look. Cool. Basically I just get a sieve now.

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Because there's quite a few pips in it.

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So we are done. That is basically it. Sweet as.

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Just got to add some cream. 350 millilitres of double cream.

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Very, very simple. The tart shell is ready.

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I'm kind of wondering why I put it in such a big bowl now.

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Because I have got to pick it up!

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You can take the tart shell out and put the filling in,

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but actually, I find that a pain.

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So I just pour it, just pull the tray out, pour it in.

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Much easier this way, because you don't spill any.

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-How long does that take to cook then?

-Erm... About 20 minutes.

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But you never know, really. It depends on the oven.

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Basically you want to cook it

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until the centre is just a little bit wobbly.

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Right? Then you know that around that it is pretty much set.

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By the time you've taken it out and let it rest for an hour,

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it will cut really smooth.

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Be lovely.

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And it's good, because all the work's done now. Do you know what I mean?

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One tart, lots of girls.

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Now, whilst cooking this recipe,

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Rachel Khoo keeps on saying to us that it is not that easy on the nose.

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In fact, it is a bit whiffy. But they look fantastic.

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N is for nests, or as they say in France, "nids".

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Tartiflette is a dish that was created in the 1980s

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by the Reblochon cheesemakers.

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Reblochon is a smelly French cheese.

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Yes, it is pretty smelly, but super yummy.

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You need about half a kilo of waxy potatoes. I'm going to Julienne

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my potatoes, make them into little matchsticks on my mandolin.

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If you don't have a mandolin you could slice it by hand.

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You can see it looks a bit like a twig.

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I find that potatoes sliced on a mandolin make the best shaped nest.

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Finely chop an onion. Whack them in the pan. Garlic.

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Smelly work this.

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Smelly onions, smelly cheese, smelly garlic,

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but it makes for an extra tasty dish. Put this on the hob.

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I'm going to throw in a bay leaf too.

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While that starts cooking I'll cut up my lardon.

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While that is sizzling away I will to cut up my stinky Reblochon cheese.

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Look at that. All squashy in the middle. Yum.

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You'll need 250 grams of Reblochon, which comes from the Alps.

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If you don't like Reblochon, You could use a brie, Camembert.

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OK, that is the cheese done.

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I'm going to throw in 100 millilitres of dry white wine.

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And you just want to cook that

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until there is about a tablespoon of liquid left.

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My wine has reduced down and I will add my potatoes.

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I'm going to pour this into the bowl.

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And I have got to fish out the bay leaf.

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Now, this is what you should do before you add the potatoes. Ah, yes.

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Found you. OK. Throw in the cheese. Look at all that cheese.

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You only live once, that's what they say! Give it a stir, grab your tin.

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The tins are already buttered, so just load up each section.

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Overfill it, because it kind of shrinks a little bit.

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Might not be the prettiest of dishes, but when it tastes this good,

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who cares? Into the oven they go.

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And I'm going to clean up.

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After about 15 minutes they will be cooked.

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It smells certainly quite cheesy now. Let's have a look.

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Oh, it is bubbling away. They look amazing.

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Yummy. Good stuff.

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All right, I'm going to scoop one out. Scoop it all out.

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It is like heaven on a plate.

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The Reblochon cheese is melted, smoky bacon flavour,

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bit of crunch from the potato on the top,

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but then it is all kind of soft and cooked in the middle.

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It is delicious.

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What these little tartiflettes lack in looks

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they make up for in taste.

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A delicious springtime lunch.

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So we're now going to look at a recipe using pheasant.

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Which is a bird, which as you will see, Clarissa from the Two Fat Ladies

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absolutely loathes in the wild, but loves on a plate.

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I am making pheasant and pickled walnut terrine.

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You may think that game is for the rich, the idle, and the aristocrats.

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But you would be wrong.

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Game is lean, fat-free if you must, delicious, more importantly.

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And you can even buy it in supermarkets these days.

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And what I'm doing at the moment

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is I am lining this terrine with streaky bacon.

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It is actually, as you can see, not so much a terrine as a loaf tin.

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But that is fine. And what I am doing is I am just flattening out the bacon

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a little bit. So that it will go better around the tin.

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I love pheasant. I had a lot of access to pheasant in my life.

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You did. You farmed them, didn't you? Actually looked after them.

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Yes, I managed a pheasant farm. And cooked at the same time.

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-We had 25,000 pheasants.

-Heavens.

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And don't let the fluffy bunny brigade ever tell you

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that they are dear, sweet creatures.

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They are one of God's nastiest animals.

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They come out of the egg trying to peck each other's eyes out.

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They are a very nasty bird indeed.

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But they do have the advantage of tasting delicious. They must be hung.

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You can't, as you can with grouse or partridge,

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take it straight off the moor and cook it.

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A pheasant that isn't hung has no flavour whatsoever.

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None, and rather dry.

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And like Jennifer's rabbit, pheasant has no real fat in it.

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So you have to add some fat.

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And that is why the bacon for this terrine

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because it will lubricate it and make it moist.

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Apart from the fact that if you use good bacon, it will taste delicious.

0:21:090:21:12

So I have now lined this tin. And then you put in the pheasant.

0:21:130:21:18

This is the meat from a whole pheasant. Cut it into strips.

0:21:180:21:23

Both the white meat and the dark meat.

0:21:230:21:25

I have had it marinating overnight in red vermouth.

0:21:250:21:30

Pack it in well. An amazing amount of meat on a pheasant.

0:21:330:21:37

People are constantly surprised.

0:21:370:21:41

Now that I have half-filled this terrine I'm going to

0:21:410:21:45

put in a layer of pickled walnuts.

0:21:450:21:48

I hope they are not the disgusting,

0:21:480:21:50

heavily vinegared ones you get in pubs.

0:21:500:21:52

I don't like that taste.

0:21:520:21:53

God forbid, Jennifer. No! Look. Lovely little things.

0:21:530:21:57

My own green walnuts picked in the garden this morning,

0:21:570:22:01

which I shall pickle in due course.

0:22:010:22:03

-I have brought them along just to show you.

-Very proud making.

0:22:030:22:06

Very proud making, yes.

0:22:060:22:08

Anyway, here are some I did earlier. Like, last year, you know.

0:22:080:22:12

-They look wonderful.

-And you just slice them. Not too thin though.

0:22:120:22:16

You don't need to be painstaking.

0:22:160:22:19

You can buy them in any good delicatessen

0:22:190:22:22

and they are lovely things.

0:22:220:22:25

You can add them to anything, add them to beef stew very easily.

0:22:250:22:29

They give a good colour to it. And a nice flavour.

0:22:290:22:32

You are flouring your rabbit that way.

0:22:320:22:34

-That is a very good way of doing it.

-It is the only way.

0:22:340:22:37

It is terrible, putting it out on a basin

0:22:370:22:39

and dib-dabbing on and everything gets sort of soggy.

0:22:390:22:42

And you spend half an hour scrubbing it off the kitchen table afterwards.

0:22:420:22:46

There we are.

0:22:460:22:47

And now I am going to put the other half of this pheasant on

0:22:470:22:50

and fill it up to the top.

0:22:500:22:52

So now I have filled up the terrine. I'm just going to cover it

0:22:560:23:01

with some more pieces of bacon. You see how really simple this is.

0:23:010:23:08

Everybody thinks terrines are so complicated. This is terribly easy.

0:23:080:23:12

So, there we are.

0:23:150:23:16

I'm just going to put it in a bain-marie and put it in the oven.

0:23:160:23:19

A bain-marie. "Mary's bath".

0:23:190:23:21

Everybody thinks it is something terribly mystical and wonderful,

0:23:210:23:24

but it is actually just any old pan with some water in the bottom of it.

0:23:240:23:29

And it is just so that the bottom of what you are cooking does not burn.

0:23:290:23:33

-It steams a little as well, which helps the process.

-Whoops.

0:23:340:23:37

There we are.

0:23:430:23:44

Splendid for lunch with a salad, or as a starter.

0:23:470:23:50

Now, our next chefs are known for their beards.

0:23:550:23:58

So you wouldn't have them down as fans of a razor.

0:23:580:24:00

But one that they actually rave over is the razor clam.

0:24:000:24:04

And here with the best of R dish, are the Hairy Bikers.

0:24:040:24:08

We're going to make chilli and garlic razor clams

0:24:110:24:14

served with parsley crumbs and a harissa and saffron mayonnaise.

0:24:140:24:18

Ancient foraged food meets the flavours of contemporary cooking.

0:24:200:24:24

First up, we cook the clams in boiling water.

0:24:270:24:30

And you don't need to do that for long.

0:24:300:24:32

Literally, it is for seconds,

0:24:320:24:33

because they will open pretty quickly.

0:24:330:24:35

As soon as they are open, they are cooked.

0:24:350:24:38

There is one. Look at them! Say hello to daddy. Look at those.

0:24:430:24:51

They are cooked.

0:24:510:24:52

And if you like eating mussels, if you like cockles,

0:24:520:24:55

the sweetest shellfish, these are better.

0:24:550:24:59

But we can't tell you enough, the key is, you saw it took seconds,

0:24:590:25:03

the key with razor clams is not to overcook them.

0:25:030:25:06

-Because if you do they will go chewy and rubbery.

-Squashed balls.

0:25:060:25:10

Drain them off.

0:25:120:25:13

And while they are cooling, we will get on with the other components.

0:25:130:25:17

I am going to chop one chilli and eight cloves of garlic to make

0:25:170:25:21

an infusion which we will pour over the clams.

0:25:210:25:23

While Si is doing that, I'm going to fry up 50 grams of bread crumbs

0:25:250:25:29

which I will mix with a handful of rough chopped parsley.

0:25:290:25:33

It is just so nice to sprinkle over the razor clams

0:25:330:25:35

when they have been dressed with a garlic and olive oil.

0:25:350:25:38

All the razor clams, they are wonderful.

0:25:380:25:40

This is British produce and it does not come much better.

0:25:400:25:44

For the oil it is really important not to burn the garlic

0:25:440:25:47

when you cook it.

0:25:470:25:48

Do you know how we keep going,

0:25:480:25:50

"Oh, listen, start with something in your pan"? Not this time.

0:25:500:25:54

What we are going to do is we are going to put the chilli in,

0:25:540:25:57

and we're going to put the garlic, again, into a cold pan.

0:25:570:26:00

We're going to cover it with olive oil, and quite a lot of olive oil.

0:26:020:26:07

Now, look at the heat here. It is really quite low.

0:26:070:26:10

So we're just going to very slowly bring that up to temperature.

0:26:100:26:13

Very slowly.

0:26:130:26:14

We're going to season it up with lots of black pepper.

0:26:150:26:20

And salt. And then just to stir it in.

0:26:220:26:25

We're going to leave the breadcrumbs to cool

0:26:270:26:29

before we add in the parsley.

0:26:290:26:31

In the meantime, we can get on with the last bit of the recipe.

0:26:320:26:36

The harissa and saffron mayonnaise.

0:26:360:26:39

-I love saffron.

-The smell is lovely.

-Absolutely.

0:26:390:26:42

-You love it, you really do, don't you?

-More expensive than gold.

0:26:420:26:47

Just put a good handful in there.

0:26:470:26:49

Keith Floyd always used to say, "When people say to me,

0:26:490:26:52

"how much saffron do I use? I say, how much can you afford?"

0:26:520:26:56

A splash of boiling water on that.

0:26:560:26:58

Look at the colour that comes out of that instantly.

0:26:580:27:01

It is going to make the most fantastic,

0:27:010:27:03

colourful tasting mayonnaise.

0:27:030:27:05

Leave that to cool.

0:27:050:27:06

Saffron is interesting.

0:27:060:27:07

It is thought that the Phoenicians, when trading for tin

0:27:070:27:10

with the Cornish, swapped saffron for tin.

0:27:100:27:13

And this could explain the Cornish love of making saffron cakes.

0:27:130:27:18

But we do know that in the 16th century

0:27:180:27:20

saffron was grown in Britain.

0:27:200:27:23

Particularly in Essex. Saffron Walden. Look at that.

0:27:230:27:27

A tan like an Essex girl.

0:27:270:27:29

Now, for the other main ingredient.

0:27:310:27:35

This is harissa.

0:27:350:27:36

It is a chilli paste that goes really well

0:27:360:27:38

with Middle Eastern food.

0:27:380:27:40

A lot of people think it is Moroccan but originally it is Tunisian.

0:27:400:27:43

And it is fantastic. So put a teaspoon of that in the bowl.

0:27:430:27:47

What is great about cooking in Britain is that we get

0:27:470:27:50

to spice up our lives with fantastic international ingredients.

0:27:500:27:55

The one that we are using is rose harissa, not as hot and fiery,

0:27:550:27:58

because you can get some that blow your socks off.

0:27:580:28:01

But these are all really robust flavours.

0:28:030:28:05

And honestly, the razor clams can take it.

0:28:050:28:08

Add in a couple of large tablespoons of mayonnaise, and mix it in.

0:28:100:28:14

-That looks gorgeous, man.

-And now mix the saffron in.

0:28:150:28:18

We don't waste any of this. Look at that!

0:28:220:28:27

Somewhat tasty and somewhat psychedelic.

0:28:290:28:32

That is what you call a seafood sauce. Spoon is clean.

0:28:320:28:35

Oh, yeah. Oh, yeah. It is earthy as well, it is lovely.

0:28:380:28:42

By now my chilli and garlic infused oil should be ready.

0:28:420:28:46

This is when it is ready. Look. Little bubbles in the oil.

0:28:460:28:50

So, and that point, take it off the heat. And leave it. That is it.

0:28:520:28:57

It is done.

0:28:570:28:58

Put the parsley in the crumbs, and we're nearly there.

0:29:010:29:04

We have got the clams. Got the dressing.

0:29:040:29:07

Got the accompaniments.

0:29:070:29:09

-Got the oil.

-Got its juice.

-Lovely.

0:29:090:29:11

-Start building now, can't we?

-We can.

0:29:110:29:14

Let's show you how to dress a razor clam. Really, really simple.

0:29:140:29:22

-Save the shells.

-They come out the shells easy, don't they?

-Yes.

0:29:220:29:27

This bit here, you don't want.

0:29:270:29:30

And then, you want to make a cut,

0:29:300:29:34

across there like that.

0:29:340:29:36

Look at that. Beautiful piece of meat. We want all that.

0:29:360:29:40

Just nip that off like that. So we have two lovely pieces of meat.

0:29:400:29:46

This bit you chuck.

0:29:460:29:48

Take the shells and snap the hinge,

0:30:000:30:02

so they lie flat on a baking tray.

0:30:020:30:05

Then replace the prepared clams.

0:30:050:30:07

There we are. Lovely.

0:30:130:30:15

Dress them with the infused garlic and chilli oil.

0:30:160:30:19

Coastal foraging is interesting,

0:30:190:30:21

because it is far from being like survivalist food.

0:30:210:30:24

It is quite haute cuisine.

0:30:240:30:26

You could eat this in a very fancy restaurant and be happy.

0:30:260:30:29

There we are. Beautiful.

0:30:310:30:32

Last of all, the clams need to go under a blisteringly hot grill

0:30:350:30:39

for two to three minutes.

0:30:390:30:41

Move the shelf up as close as you can get it to the grill,

0:30:410:30:43

and under a preheated grill, which is key, stick your razor clams in.

0:30:430:30:48

-They are starting to go.

-Yeah.

-Perfect.

-Nicely sizzling away.

0:30:550:31:00

Lovely.

0:31:050:31:08

Now, just dress that with the crumbs and parsley.

0:31:120:31:15

And on the side, a nice big dipping dollop

0:31:180:31:20

-of the saffron and harissa mayo.

-That looks fantastic.

0:31:200:31:26

Hey, mate, I think that is what I would call a Michelin star forage.

0:31:280:31:31

-I am with you.

-Top scrounge, that one.

-Should we?

-I think we should.

0:31:310:31:37

-Forks or forage?

-Forage.

0:31:370:31:38

Mayo, garlic, crumbs...

0:31:430:31:44

The chilli and the razor clam, it is so sweet, and then,

0:31:510:31:55

you have that lovely savoury hit with the garlic and the oil. Fabulous.

0:31:550:32:00

And you dip the mayo in and you get that earthy thing with

0:32:000:32:03

the saffron. Honestly, it is amazing.

0:32:030:32:06

If you like squid, you would like these.

0:32:060:32:08

If you like mussels, you will like these.

0:32:080:32:11

If you love scallops, you will go bonkers for these.

0:32:110:32:14

And if you like food for nothing, give this one a go.

0:32:140:32:17

They're here, on our beaches and on our shorelines,

0:32:180:32:22

and they are fantastic.

0:32:220:32:24

All you need, a bit of courage, a good sense of the tides,

0:32:240:32:28

and a bag of salt.

0:32:280:32:30

Cooking foraged food and eating the oldest grub around, it is

0:32:340:32:37

a great way to connect with our very earliest foodie ancestors.

0:32:370:32:41

But it is great to combine those primal flavours with the best taste

0:32:430:32:47

that modern cooking has to offer, fusing the really old and the new.

0:32:470:32:51

We have got a triple whammy of S's in this dish.

0:32:530:32:56

This is the marvellous Mary Berry, and she has come up trumps,

0:32:560:33:00

cooking her beautiful salmon with a sorrel and spinach sauce.

0:33:000:33:03

This is sort of a hollandaise sauce.

0:33:050:33:08

But there is no difficulty in making it.

0:33:080:33:11

It will not separate, it is everlasting, and it is easy.

0:33:110:33:15

Not quite as rich as hollandaise either. What more could you want?

0:33:150:33:18

It starts with a tub of low fat creme fraiche,

0:33:180:33:21

straight into the processor, with one egg yolk.

0:33:210:33:24

Then I'm going to add the juice of half a lemon.

0:33:240:33:28

So it is a nice lemony sauce.

0:33:290:33:31

And two level teaspoons of flour to thicken it.

0:33:310:33:34

Just like that. One...two.

0:33:340:33:37

And then I have got some melted butter here.

0:33:370:33:40

Half the amount you would use in a traditional hollandaise.

0:33:400:33:44

And some salt and pepper.

0:33:440:33:46

And I know that purists will always use white pepper in a white sauce

0:33:460:33:51

but I like to see the flecks of black. On goes the lid.

0:33:510:33:56

Whizz it together until it is all emulsified.

0:33:560:33:59

And that doesn't take a moment.

0:34:020:34:04

Then cook out the flour in a bowl over simmering water.

0:34:040:34:07

Now, this is a really good sauce to make ahead.

0:34:070:34:11

And hollandaise you've got to make at the last minute.

0:34:110:34:15

Often a recipe will say gently reheat it.

0:34:150:34:19

Well, half the time if you try to gently reheat hollandaise,

0:34:190:34:22

it separates. So this is very un-temperamental.

0:34:220:34:26

So, we have in the bowl everything

0:34:260:34:29

except for the spinach and the sorrel.

0:34:290:34:32

The reason for not adding it now is, if you cook sorrel and spinach,

0:34:320:34:36

and keep it hot for a long time, it goes grey.

0:34:360:34:40

So we will add it at the very last minute.

0:34:400:34:42

And while that thickens we can get our fresh herbs ready for the pot.

0:34:420:34:46

So, I have already got the sorrel here.

0:34:460:34:49

And it is nice young sorrel.

0:34:490:34:52

And it has a sharp, lemony flavour.

0:34:520:34:54

I'm going to take some of those stalks off. Like that.

0:34:540:34:58

And then chop it up.

0:34:580:34:59

Sorrel was a very popular in Tudor times.

0:35:010:35:04

But nowadays not many people use it. It is so easy to grow.

0:35:050:35:10

But the one thing you have to do is keep cutting it.

0:35:100:35:13

Because the leaves get very tough if you don't.

0:35:130:35:17

But it is a perennial and once you have planted it,

0:35:170:35:19

you have got it for ever, which is a good thing.

0:35:190:35:22

I have chopped up the sorrel, now the spinach,

0:35:220:35:24

and there is no stalk on the spinach, it is fairly young.

0:35:240:35:27

You don't have to be really fussy about it doing small, it is

0:35:270:35:30

only a matter of sort of wilting it into the sauce at the last minute.

0:35:300:35:35

And that is looking good. Nice and frothy, fairly thick.

0:35:350:35:38

So we can add the sorrel and spinach,

0:35:400:35:42

a handful of each, and give it a stir.

0:35:420:35:44

Now, I'm just going to taste that, although I tasted it before.

0:35:440:35:48

It might need a dash of sugar. Because sorrel is very, very sharp.

0:35:510:35:56

And when you are happy with the seasoning, it is ready to serve.

0:35:560:35:58

Now, this is a beautiful piece of salmon,

0:36:010:36:04

it could be salmon trout, a little halibut perhaps, or sea bass.

0:36:040:36:07

I have cooked it in the oven with a touch of lemon juice

0:36:100:36:13

and it goes really well with the sorrel and spinach sauce.

0:36:130:36:16

And, what could I serve that with?

0:36:190:36:21

I would like that with small, new potatoes, would be good.

0:36:210:36:25

A generous amount of sauce.

0:36:250:36:26

But you see, I am married to a gravy man, I always make a lot of sauce.

0:36:260:36:30

And what does it taste like?

0:36:320:36:34

Truly lemony, sharp, and, of course, very inviting,

0:36:340:36:38

because it is this lovely, bright, creamy colour.

0:36:380:36:40

That is a bit of all right. And I'm going back for another one.

0:36:430:36:47

Thanks, Mary.

0:36:490:36:50

And if you have still got room for it,

0:36:500:36:52

we are finishing with a masterclass from Raymond Blanc.

0:36:520:36:55

Maybe not one you will try at home, but, anyway,

0:36:550:36:57

sit back and enjoy this incredible cafe creme.

0:36:570:37:01

A cup, sculpted completely from chocolate.

0:37:030:37:07

Filled with iced espresso parfait,

0:37:070:37:09

topped with cherry liqueur with sugar-coated truffles.

0:37:090:37:14

I am going to put a very special dessert. It is one of my oldest.

0:37:140:37:18

It took me about six months solid work on this dessert to realise it.

0:37:190:37:23

And you will understand exactly why. OK?

0:37:240:37:27

You have to love someone so very much to make this dessert.

0:37:270:37:31

And that is certainly proof of love, there is no doubt about it.

0:37:310:37:35

But it is possible.

0:37:350:37:37

We have 500g of chocolate which is melted at about 55 degrees. OK?

0:37:370:37:42

Which I have... SPEAKS FRENCH

0:37:420:37:45

Sorry, I just... OK. It is getting too hot.

0:37:450:37:50

It was off. OK. Oh, can you just...?

0:37:510:37:56

Why don't they just do a bloody thing which would stick to it?

0:37:560:38:00

They give you a thermometer and you put it on the side.

0:38:000:38:03

And the first thing it does is slide in the chocolate. Great.

0:38:030:38:06

Instead of putting a little catch, maybe here, on that side.

0:38:060:38:09

Again, choose your equipment well.

0:38:090:38:12

A good thermometer is useful,

0:38:120:38:14

as the chocolate needs to reach the right consistency to sculpt.

0:38:140:38:19

First, heat the chocolate to 55 degrees centigrade.

0:38:190:38:22

Add chopped chocolate to reduce the temperature,

0:38:220:38:25

then reheat to 32 degrees.

0:38:250:38:28

-Voila.

-This is known as tempering.

0:38:280:38:31

It refines the chocolate by melting unstable fat crystals,

0:38:310:38:34

making it smoother, easier to shape, and shiny.

0:38:340:38:38

So, now, I'm going to start building up my chocolate cup.

0:38:380:38:42

To create the cup, use a flat rectangular plastic sheet,

0:38:420:38:45

which you can buy from cookery shops.

0:38:450:38:48

A ladle, here.

0:38:480:38:50

I'm going to pick up... SPEAKS FRENCH

0:38:580:39:02

Tres bien. Voila. Merci.

0:39:040:39:07

-Voila.

-Place the chocolate coated plastic into a circular mould.

0:39:110:39:16

Perfect. I'm pressing it on the lid here.

0:39:160:39:19

Then afterwards I am opening it up completely,

0:39:190:39:22

so it is the perfect circle.

0:39:220:39:23

I'm going to do the joint. Take a little bit of chocolate here.

0:39:230:39:28

Voila. Tres bien. I'm going to do my saucers now.

0:39:310:39:34

That sort of surface, glass, china. They are all stuck.

0:39:340:39:41

Because they are porous. OK?

0:39:410:39:42

So, I saw a piece of clingfilm, I say, of course!

0:39:420:39:48

First thing you need to do is to oil your saucer

0:39:490:39:52

so the clingfilm actually can slip on it.

0:39:520:39:55

You just...

0:39:550:39:57

..squeeze, then I'm going to dip it.

0:39:590:40:03

Voila. Then smooth away the excess.

0:40:030:40:07

I'm good to create a lip in order to release later, much of that saucer.

0:40:080:40:12

-So, now, we do the handles.

-Make a cone using grease-proof paper.

0:40:120:40:19

Pour in melted chocolate, cut a hole in the end, and shape your handles.

0:40:190:40:23

Voila. Tres bien. You never put them in the fridge to set.

0:40:240:40:28

It gets a little bit... Room temperature is perfect, OK?

0:40:280:40:32

All the chocolate moulds will need at least five hours to set.

0:40:330:40:37

Now I'm going to do the sugar cubes.

0:40:390:40:42

And the great thing about sugar cubes is a ganache.

0:40:420:40:44

A ganache is the same as chocolate truffle filling

0:40:440:40:48

and is a great way to make home-made chocolates.

0:40:480:40:51

First the skin will boil over.

0:40:510:40:53

To make, boil double cream, add 70% dark chocolate, and stir.

0:40:530:40:58

It gets that lovely quality, simple quality, it is so beautiful.

0:41:000:41:06

Clingfilm. Put it in here.

0:41:060:41:09

-Voila.

-The ganache is now ready to put in the fridge to set for six hours.

0:41:130:41:18

So, the ganache has cooled down, nicely,

0:41:260:41:29

and all that I need is a hot blade.

0:41:290:41:30

Cuts like butter. OK?

0:41:320:41:35

Lovely sugar cubes here. Now, we're ready to build the cafe creme.

0:41:400:41:44

Just unfold, very carefully. That's it. And you got your perfect saucer.

0:41:470:41:54

Raymond is using his solid top cooker

0:42:050:42:06

to weld all the pieces together.

0:42:060:42:08

But a hot pan will do the job just as well.

0:42:080:42:11

That cup becomes coffee proof. Gently, gently press on it.

0:42:120:42:16

So, now, the little handle.

0:42:170:42:19

Line the base with a biscuit soaked in espresso.

0:42:240:42:27

-In the bottom here.

-Now, for the filling.

0:42:290:42:32

This is an iced espresso parfait.

0:42:330:42:36

Just an egg yolk, frothed up with espresso coffee, and whipped cream,

0:42:360:42:40

which you freeze.

0:42:400:42:43

Frenchman can't help it, a little bit of alcohol.

0:42:480:42:51

Add a dash of cherry liqueur to the foam to make the espresso topping.

0:42:510:42:55

Voila!

0:43:030:43:05

OK, so, Tom, a young man who has worked with us

0:43:060:43:08

for two months now is going to taste the cafe creme.

0:43:080:43:12

So, no pressure, Tom.

0:43:120:43:14

-OK, so what do you think?

-Very nice.

-Out of... What, out of ten? Tell us.

0:43:170:43:22

-Eight.

-Eight? You are a tough guy. You are a tough guy!

0:43:250:43:29

Just work with me two months and giving me eight! I don't pay well?!

0:43:290:43:33

That's the end of the best of the A to Z of TV Cooking.

0:43:340:43:38

Thanks to all our chefs, and see you soon.

0:43:380:43:41

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