Letter P The A to Z of TV Cooking

For his final recipe, Raymond returns to a classic -

a pigeon baked in a salt crust.

I did this dish

25 years ago

and it's still modern in its concept.

It's still very much loved.

That's what classic is all about.

Raymond is using a French farm-raised pigeon known as squab.

You'll need one per person.

No seasoning, no salt,

because, remember, we are going to put it into a salt crust.

So, no seasoning.

The pigeons are seared in hot goose fat

to brown the skin for extra flavour.

And now we are going to do our salt crust.

Although not eaten, the salt crust prevents

small and lean game like pigeon

from becoming dry and overcooked.

Put one kilo of plain flour into a mixer,

add 600g of fine salt

and nine egg whites.

Voila!

I'm going to prepare to cut it into four.

Voila!

Chill the dough for 30 minutes before rolling

to a thickness of 5mm.

So, now, I'm ready to wrap the squabs into the dough.

To decorate the salt crust, Raymond cuts out some wings.

Place it breast down.

Bottoms up.

OK. To aid the sticking...

there's egg yolk.

Not too much. If you put too much, it will not stick, it will slide.

Lift this side here... Tres bien.

And then lift... Put your breast... Voila. Pressing...

so there are no air pockets whatsoever.

It doesn't look very pretty at the moment, but it will.

We're going to do the head

because a pigeon without a head is not good.

Pinch the beak.

For eyes, two cloves are perfect.

This technique works without the need for decoration,

but for Raymond, the extra effort is worthwhile.

Voila! All that you have to do is finish it off,

is put the egg yolk on it. All over.

That's what's going to give it wonderful colour.

Don't chop its head off.

Not yet. Later.

The last finish...

that you do is salt.

The salt-crust pastry shell protects the meat from the heat,

creating an oven within an oven.

In an oven, the temperature goes very high and the meat retract here.

The heat goes very, very slowly,

permeating the meat quietly inside,

changing completely the texture and the flavour.

The pigeons are cooked for 20 minutes at 220 degrees centigrade.

Bye-bye.

Can we have some fennel tops? Just the top of the fennel.

To go with the pigeon - cabbage.

It's quartered and steamed.

Raymond is also serving his favourite -

the fricassee of wild mushrooms.

So, of course, as a cook, anything you wrapped,

it is something you cannot see, cannot smell or touch.

It's rather unnerving what's happening inside.

Is it overcooked?

Is it undercooked?

You've got all sorts of nightmares - little doubts.

To serve, remove the pigeon from the crust.

Yes, you guillotine the head.

Voila!

Spoon. He likes that.

Come on. Out. That's it.

That's perfect. Tres bien.

Slice the blade gently towards...

Voila!

Gosh, it's quite a nice medium achieved.

I think that's one of the most

beautiful food experiences you may have.

It's unctuous with the most melting quality.

You must taste it once in a lifetime.

Have you ever tasted squab before?

-No.

-Never?!

-I grew up with very dry pheasant.

-Poor you! Sorry.

-How is it?

-It's good.

It's amazing how the salt crust has seasoned the breast so well.

It's seasoned it perfectly.

So, for my mother, that'd be too rare.

But that's delicious.

OK, tell your mother we can teach her a few tricks. Is it possible?

Could you tell her, Chef?

-Of course I'll tell her.

-Thank you.

-OK. Thank you, mate.

OK. Great. Lovely. Thank you.

Now time for some desserts.

This P is for pineapple

and here is Levi Roots cooking up a pineapple pudding in Glasgow.

MUSIC: I Feel Good All Over by Horace Andy

I want to spread the message

about the sunshine flavours

of the Caribbean to everyone!

But when I took a look at a map,

it seems that some people might be more in need

than most.

I've been doing a bit of research

and Scotland has hardly any Caribbean restaurants!

I think it's time for a change.

So I've chosen a spot right in the centre of Glasgow

and the perfect fruit

to show people what they're missing.

In the Caribbean, a pineapple is a sign of welcome and hospitality.

So, what better way for me to introduce my Caribbean flavours

than to do my pineapple in lime, vanilla and rum syrup?

This mouthwatering dessert is going to persuade Glaswegians

that Caribbean food is a must.

I can't wait for them to taste my hot pineapple

soaked in a warm syrup of sweet vanilla, rum and allspice.

So, first thing I'm going to do is start making my delicious syrup.

Dissolve some dark sugar in water

to give you a lovely deep-coloured mix,

and then add the zest of a lime for zing factor.

Next, I'm going to add this lovely thing here, which is vanilla pods.

Vanilla is something that you find in every Caribbean home.

The sweet flavour is concentrated in the seeds,

so cut along the length of the pods and scrape them out.

For extra flavour, cut the pod in two and add it to the syrup.

Next, I'm diving into what I call "the sunshine kit"

for allspice berries.

This kit is the essential toolbox of herbs and spices

used in Caribbean cookery.

Keep these in your cupboard

and you'll always be able to taste a little sunshine.

Thyme, Scotch bonnet pepper, ginger, nutmeg,

garlic and these aromatic allspice berries.

Normally, allspice berries are used in savoury dishes,

but I think, this time round,

it's going to give it a nice, lovely warmth.

And now, it's time for the star of the show -

my big golden welcome.

You need to expose the juicy flesh.

And it's important to go quite deep with your knife

when you're peeling your pineapple, so you get rid of all those eyes.

Like that.

And instantly...

reminds me of the Caribbean.

Lovely.

It's fantastic. It's always good...

to cook with a smile on your face.

Especially if you're cooking Caribbean.

It's what it's about.

It's the fun.

Now, let's put these on a skewer.

Make sure you keep your fingers well out of the way.

I think about there is fine.

I think these look ready for the barbecue.

You know, this is a really easy dish.

The reason why I chose it is because I don't want people just to taste it.

I want them to make it!

You can always use a grill for this,

but I want the aromas from this barbecue

to grab people's attention.

Cook your wedges for about eight minutes

till they're lightly brown.

By now, your syrup should have reduced and thickened,

ready for your final ingredient -

the rum.

Your rum is optional.

You don't have to put it in. But you know me.

I think these are ready.

They look absolutely gorgeous!

This is warm syrup going on to warm pineapple.

Smell all that lovely rum!

Especially the allspice berries, I can smell.

Fruity...spicy...

it's a tropical delight. I love it!

So, here's the deal,

shoppers not only get to taste,

they also get a pineapple complete with a recipe.

I want them to promise they will make this Caribbean treat for themselves.

Respect.

This is my pineapple in lime, vanilla and rum syrup.

How does it taste? Can you feel the sunshine on your face?

-That's really good. Lovely.

-Cool.

-It's even got a ribbon on it.

-Oh, thank you very much.

-Respect, man.

-Here you go.

There may be no Caribbean restaurants here,

but I'm hoping in kitchens all over Glasgow

people will be cooking my Caribbean food.