Perfect Pairings The Best Dishes Ever


Perfect Pairings

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Today, The Best Dishes Ever is looking at perfect pairings -

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ingredients that work together beautifully and just seem right.

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This can mean adding a herb or a spice, or mixing sweet with savoury.

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Whatever the combination, you know when it hits the spot.

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Let's get things started with cakes from Mary Berry that

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illustrates our theme so well, with apple and cinnamon.

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Fruit and spice is normally associated with rich,

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dense cakes, but this loaf cake, with apple and cinnamon,

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offers a much lighter way to spice up tea-time.

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I'm actually going to make two - one for now and one for the freezer.

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Start off with the flour.

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200g of self-raising flour.

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75g of butter.

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I find that it helps to have it a bit soft.

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And then, a light rubbing-in and that gets the air in it.

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When the butter has combined with the flour to a breadcrumb texture,

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add 100g of light Muscovado sugar

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and a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon.

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Cinnamon and apple go really well together.

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They use it an awful lot in Europe. Think of apple strudel.

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Lightly combine the sugar and spice, then prepare the apples.

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I'm using three Braeburns, which must be cored and peeled.

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If I was using our old favourite, Bramleys,

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they would go in to a mush in the cake.

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Eating apples, sometimes known as dessert apples,

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hold their shape and I want to keep the texture.

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Right, we have three apples prepared.

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I'm going to keep half to go on top of my loaf tin,

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so I'll pop that down there.

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When I was a child, we had a lot of apples in the garden

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and, when it came to picking time, we had to go up the tree

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and have a basket and not let them fall.

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I've always liked climbing trees, so, I must say, I really enjoyed it.

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With the apples chopped, lightly whisk three eggs,

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then add both to the mixture and stir it all in.

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That's quite a soft mixture

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and there's a lovely spicy smell coming up from it, too.

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Spoon the mixture into two greased and lined 1lb loaf tins.

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I find that two smaller cakes bake more reliably than one big one.

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It also means I've got one for now and another for the freezer.

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To decorate the cakes,

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cut the remaining half apple into thin slices and place on top.

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And then, to give it a nice crunch, I'm going

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to add a little bit of Demerara sugar.

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I'm just going to sprinkle that,

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I suppose I'm using about two tablespoons,

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all over the top of the apple,

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and that will just sort of melt and become a lovely,

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crunchy topping and a good, even brown colour all over.

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Now they're ready for baking,

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so it's into the oven at 160 fan for about 35 minutes.

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Once the cakes have cooked, turn them out

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and spread with apricot jam.

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It will melt to leave you with a lovely, sticky glaze.

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So, there you go, wonderful cinnamon apple cakes.

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This is a perfect choice for the adults.

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I think they'll be thrilled with it.

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Thanks, Mary.

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Now, it's time for something from yours truly,

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and a combination of duck and honey

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that I think works an absolute treat.

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It's my honey-glazed duck with rosti potatoes, creamed cabbage

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and a honey and clove sauce.

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Oh, sounds delicious, Ains!

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I'm on a mission to revive British honey and what is apparent is

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that buying British isn't always top of our agenda.

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As far as where my honey comes from, I wouldn't have a clue.

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I buy a branded label, I'm not sure where it's from, maybe England.

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I don't think I've ever checked the back of a jar to find out

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where it's from.

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I think our apathy towards buying British honey is alarming,

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but that's just one of the many challenges

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facing the honey industry.

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David Bondi runs the UK's largest honey manufacturer.

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His company bottles over a third of all the honey sold in our shops.

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Total British honey production is

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only about 10% of everything that we consume in this country,

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and so, clearly, we have to import lots of honey.

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We buy all the British honey that we can. We'd love to buy more.

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Our difficulty has been just how limited the supply has been.

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We work with our beekeeper colleagues to encourage them

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to produce as much as they can.

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But they are obviously struggling to keep up with demand,

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so I've come to Buckinghamshire to meet one of the UK's leading

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commercial beekeepers to find out why.

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-Hello, Jed.

-Hi, Ainslie.

-How you doing?

-All right.

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Good, looking forward to meeting your bees.

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'Jed has 200 hives spread across the farm and, in a good year,

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'he can produce up to 15 tonnes of honey.'

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What's it like being a commercial farmer, then, Jed?

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Well, it's changed radically from when I started 20 years ago.

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We've got so much more to contend with these days.

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We've got a lot of problems with disease,

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bee losses over winter, we've also got a lot of the good

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agricultural crops that were grown,

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that were very helpful for beekeepers,

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have been stopped or greatly reduced,

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so it's more difficult to find good sites where the bees can get

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a good crop of honey in the summer.

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What about the production of honey for you?

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How long would it take for a bee to make a jar of honey?

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For a single bee to make a jar of honey, it would

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travel the equivalent of one and a half times round the world.

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Wow. That's why you need about 50,000 in order to keep a hive active.

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Yes, I mean, that's the whole idea.

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You get an awful lot of bees and they don't have to travel as far.

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They're just going over there, to the flower meadows.

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That's a mixture of clover and Bramwell.

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-Would you like to try some?

-Yeah, get them out the way.

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-That's it.

-Dig in.

-Yeah, I know. I'm right in there.

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-Go on, they'll all be after me now, all the bees. I'm in there.

-Yeah?

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Oh, yeah!

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You can taste the wildness coming through that.

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That's definitely there. Mm. Gorgeous. And a bit of wax, too!

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THEY LAUGH

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So, what can we do to help our bee farmers?

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Planting more bee-friendly flowers would be a start,

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but we can take it further than that.

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The thing that the Great British public can do

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is simply to buy honey.

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Let's make sure that British honey, when it's in the supermarkets,

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when it's in the farmers' markets, that people buy it.

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Very simple and we can all do that.

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Wow.

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And I'm going to be using this - Jed's honey - for my second recipe.

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And that's going to be...

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Now, the sauce is really fairly straightforward.

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Loads of different flavours going on here, notably the honey,

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cos it really does work so beautifully with this.

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So I'm talking about four tablespoons of honey.

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I know, I just pour things in,

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but that's the real beauty of being a cook, isn't it?

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You kind of measure by eye.

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That's followed by a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce,

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balsamic vinegar and ketchup.

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To that, add a couple of tablespoons of Muscovado sugar and a few cloves.

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When that starts to boil down and that clove oil starts to be released

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into the honey and everything, it's got a real pungency.

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And, last but not least, some beef stock.

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Let's get some heat under there now. There you go.

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And all you really want to do is just to bring that up to the boil.

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Let's slice up that onion, shall we?

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You see this end here, where the root is?

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Because I'm using sliced onions as opposed to just chopping them,

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I want to cut a little wedge out of that, either side.

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And the idea of removing that root is, look at that, look,

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the onions just separate beautifully.

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If I hadn't taken that out, then they'd be all glued together.

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Add some butter and oil to the pan, followed by the onions.

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Whilst that's sorting itself out, we can get on with preparing the meat.

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This is what we're going to go with, those lovely, lovely duck breasts.

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And what we want to do is just to score that skin.

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You know, ducks are waterproof, so their skin is like that.

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What you need to do is you need to score the skin a little bit

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to release some of that fat.

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Right, let's get our pan on now. Pan is cold, as you can see.

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A lot of chefs will say put it into a hot pan so it sears straightaway.

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I'm not sure whether it really matters.

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I think you can put it straight into a cold pan and we're just going

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to let that render down a little bit, to release some of that fat.

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I think cabbage works wonderfully well with duck.

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Cabbage, in my house, is a big, big thing and sometimes

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I cook it down with carrots and bacon and ginger

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and a bit of chilli, one of my dad's favourites.

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SIZZLING

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Hey, can you hear that duck now?

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That duck is just kind of starting to release its fat now.

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Give the cabbage a quick wash and pop it in with your onions.

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Just look at that. Crispy.

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I'm just going to pour off that excess fat.

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Carefully do this, guys.

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They do move around the pan there a little bit.

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That really doesn't need to go to waste.

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It makes the most wonderful roast tatties, or rostis.

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I'm going to be doing a few of those for you later.

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I've got them in the oven, really.

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Duck fat is really, really good for that.

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Pop that into an oven, 200 degrees centigrade or 400 Fahrenheit.

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Gas mark six. For that thickness, no more than six to eight minutes.

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I'm talking about just beyond pink.

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If you want it deadly pink, four, five minutes, no more than that.

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OK, and if you like it well-done, which would be a shame,

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because duck doesn't need to be eaten well-done...

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I won't even tell you how long you've got to cook it for,

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but there you go.

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So, back to the cabbage.

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I've lowered the heat so it begins to cook down.

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Ears are a fabulous thing when you're cooking.

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My mum always used to say, "Grab the steam".

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When we talked about cooking like that, she'd grab the steam

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and smell, that will tell you a lot. But it's the sound of stuff.

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You can tell that something has reduced down,

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there's no longer any moisture in the pan, it's drying out,

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so I think we just need a little bit of water in there.

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That's it, now. That's cooked down really, really lovely.

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So, at this stage, in with my crispy bits of bacon.

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Add a splash of cream and stir well.

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I'll take my duck out now and, for that final minute, all I'm going

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to do is take some of Jed's honey

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and just drizzle on top of that.

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Look at that, it's going to give it that lovely sheen. Beautiful.

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Pop that back in for another minute.

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Now, what we're going to do is just pass off our sauce.

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Oh, it smells of cloves, the honey, it's slightly caramelised.

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OK, let's take those beautiful honeyed ducks out.

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OK, you can see I'm carving it.

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I think it just presents so much better than just having

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that lump there. It's not like a bit of chicken.

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This is duck, it demands respect,

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as my old head chef Malcolm used to say.

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JAMAICAN ACCENT: Respect da duck!

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He wasn't from Jamaica!

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HE LAUGHS

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And there you have it, guys.

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Look at that - gorgeous.

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Honey-glazed duck, I should say Jed's honey-glazed duck,

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with rosti potatoes and creamed cabbage and bacon.

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I've just got to try that.

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You know, honey just works so well with savoury,

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because it brings out the natural flavours.

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I can taste the duck beautifully.

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It's gone into the sauce and the clove is there, so you get that

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spicy taste followed by that honey, and Jed's honey really is wonderful.

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I think this is what we forget. Honey is just not honey.

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There's so many different varieties, so many different flavours,

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and if you can find out what works with your cooking,

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you're in for a real treat.

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Cor, that was lovely.

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And here's another poultry pairing that features honey,

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but the reason I've included it here is because

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it marries together chicken and lavender.

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Let's head to France and join up with Rachel Khoo.

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Landes, in the south-west of France, is famous for its chickens.

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They carry the French red label, which is

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similar to our free-range chicken guarantee.

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Their lovely strong taste comes from being raised slowly

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and given good-quality feed.

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Because I'm not the best butcher, he's going to take the head off,

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and the feet, and cut it up into bits for me

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because he can do it in five minutes and I take half an hour.

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I'm going to use lavender with this chicken,

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which Parisians use for baking.

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This will add a subtly perfumed taste.

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Sticky lemon and lavender chicken.

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You might be thinking, "Lavender in a savoury dish?"

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Right, we're going to start off with crushing some lavender.

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There is lavender that tastes bitter,

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so look for sweet lavender and make sure it's suitable for cooking.

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In it goes. Next step, I'm going to zest the lemon.

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OK.

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Right, lemon zest in. And I'm going to grab some thyme.

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I have my Parisian fridge out here.

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In Paris, most people have small fridges...

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..so you stick your stuff out on the windowsill.

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OK, so I'm just going to take the leaves off these sprigs.

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Thyme and lavender go really well together - it's a good combination.

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Some olive oil, about two tablespoons.

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So, I'm going to add two tablespoons of honey, some lavender honey,

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which is going to give that stickiness to this dish.

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The lavender honey will reinforce the flavour of the mixture.

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You'll find it in specialist shops in the UK,

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but you can also use regular good-quality honey.

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I need some lemon juice.

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OK, let's juice this lemon.

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That goes in there. A pinch of salt.

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And let's mix this all together.

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Once it's mixed up, I'm going to grab my chicken.

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OK, we've got some lovely chicken here. All you need to do...

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is you stick all the pieces in.

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I've got a nice selection of drumsticks, thigh, wings.

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Give it a good mix. That way, all the pieces get coated.

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If you wanted to, you could just cover it with some clingfilm

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and put it in the fridge,

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but because my fridge is so small...

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SHE LAUGHS

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I have to save space on everything, so I'm going to grab a sandwich bag.

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Here.

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I'm just going to tip it in there.

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This dish, a lot of people think it's like,

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"Oh, you should do it for the summer."

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I quite like doing it in the winter, when it's grey and wet.

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And all you need to do is give it some time in the fridge and

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pop it in the oven. All right, so that's going in the fridge.

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FRENCH POP MUSIC PLAYS

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I've grabbed my chicken out of the fridge,

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it's had a couple of hours to marinate,

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and I'm going to put it in the oven.

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Cook it for 40 minutes at 200 degrees.

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That's it. Easy.

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Easy-peasy.

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If the chicken is browning too quickly,

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cover it with aluminium foil.

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And it's a good idea to turn the pieces over halfway through,

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so they brown evenly.

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I think the chicken... It's bubbling away, it looks like it's done. OK.

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Yes. That looks pretty amazing.

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You've got lovely, caramelised, sweet, sticky skin on the top.

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If you've got some crusty baguette or some bread at hand,

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you just want rip a piece off and dunk

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that bread in those juices there

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cos it's seriously good.

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Serve with green beans or any vegetable with a gentle

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flavour that won't fight the lavender.

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Mmm.

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Yeah, good!

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SHE LAUGHS

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The rich, savoury flavour of the chicken

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and sweetness of the lavender,

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a traditional French ingredient used in an unconventional way.

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That looks great, Rachel. Thanks very much for that.

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Now, there are loads of great flavours working

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together in this next dish,

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a lasagne from Lorraine Pascale, that contains a nice

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alternative to the usual bechamel sauce.

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I'm going to make this sweet potato

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and butternut squash lasagne with sage, toasted pine nuts and nutmeg.

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There's these lovely golden layers of yumminess and the cheat

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about it is there's a white sauce that takes seconds to prepare.

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First, soften 12 lasagne sheets in boiling water -

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this makes them cook more evenly when layered.

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Mash together 600g of cooked sweet potato

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and butternut squash with a little bit of salt and pepper.

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Now, chop a generous handful of sage and rosemary.

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Then, to make your shortcut bechamel sauce, 600g of ricotta...

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..100g of grated Parmesan...

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..two egg yolks...

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..a bit of ginger and then nutmeg.

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Really powerful aromas, really boost the flavour of this dish.

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Salt and pepper.

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Then just give this a stir together and we're good to go.

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And now, start assembling the lasagne.

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First, a layer of mashed sweet potato and butternut squash.

0:19:550:19:58

Got some baby leaf spinach here.

0:20:010:20:03

Just sprinkle it over and it'll just wilt nicely in the oven.

0:20:030:20:07

Sprinkle over some of this sage and rosemary -

0:20:100:20:13

it's going to add real pungent flavour.

0:20:130:20:16

Scatter over some toasted pine nuts.

0:20:170:20:20

Then the pasta sheets,

0:20:240:20:26

just overlap them slightly, and then my cheat's bechamel sauce.

0:20:260:20:32

Not really bechamel at all,

0:20:360:20:38

but it tastes even better than a standard bechamel, I think.

0:20:380:20:42

Put about a third on there and then use my palette knife,

0:20:440:20:49

just to spread it over the lasagne.

0:20:490:20:53

That's one lot and then I just repeat that two more times.

0:20:570:21:01

Once I complete the layers, I sprinkle over breadcrumbs

0:21:110:21:14

and Parmesan cheese for a crunchy crust.

0:21:140:21:18

And this goes into the oven for 15 to 20 minutes at 220 degrees.

0:21:180:21:22

Just enough time for me to clear everything away.

0:21:240:21:27

There you are - butternut squash and sweet potato lasagne

0:21:420:21:46

with sage and rosemary.

0:21:460:21:48

Right, that's it. Now, let's end with a pudding, shall we?

0:21:520:21:56

And this is stuffed with flavours that work really well together -

0:21:560:21:59

blueberry, peanuts and chocolate.

0:21:590:22:02

I know, I know what you're thinking. Take it away, James.

0:22:020:22:06

This is my blueberry galette,

0:22:100:22:12

served with an instant chocolate bar ice cream.

0:22:120:22:15

Now, if there's one place that I love going to when I'm on holiday,

0:22:190:22:23

and that's Paris, and I came across this dessert.

0:22:230:22:26

It's a little galette, very, very simple to make.

0:22:260:22:29

There's a real key thing you really need to pay attention to,

0:22:290:22:32

to get perfect pastry every time, like the French,

0:22:320:22:35

and that's what I think needs to be done by hand.

0:22:350:22:38

First thing to do is put 200g of plain flour into a bowl.

0:22:380:22:43

Next is 150g of chopped, unsalted butter.

0:22:430:22:49

But cold butter, it's really, really important that you use cold butter.

0:22:490:22:53

Sometimes, you can actually freeze this to get it really cold.

0:22:530:22:56

I've actually seen recipes where they freeze the pastry as well,

0:22:560:23:00

to get it even colder.

0:23:000:23:02

Throw in the butter to the flour with a good pinch of sugar.

0:23:030:23:08

The secret of this is to actually work the flour as little as possible

0:23:080:23:12

and, by doing so, the gluten in the flour,

0:23:120:23:15

the stretchy part of the flour,

0:23:150:23:17

which you knead when you're making bread, doesn't happen.

0:23:170:23:21

What you end up with is a very short pastry,

0:23:230:23:25

but a very delicate one that just melts in your mouth.

0:23:250:23:29

And even my gran used to rub the butter and flour together to make

0:23:300:23:34

her shortbread while watching Corrie on the box.

0:23:340:23:38

It meant that when you actually tasted this,

0:23:380:23:41

you didn't need to bite it, you didn't need any teeth,

0:23:410:23:44

which, in my granddad's case, was probably a good thing.

0:23:440:23:47

Using the tips of your fingers,

0:23:470:23:49

keep on rubbing it in until it creates a small crumb.

0:23:490:23:52

The more delicate you are with it, the better the end product.

0:23:520:23:56

Once it's like this, add one egg yolk

0:23:570:24:00

and bind it all together into a big ball.

0:24:000:24:03

Because you've worked it, you need to allow it to rest,

0:24:040:24:07

so I've got one that's in the fridge, just firmed up.

0:24:070:24:09

It'll only take about an hour, two hours - something like that.

0:24:090:24:13

I'm going to create the filling for our little galette.

0:24:130:24:16

Now, this is so simple. You can do this with any summer fruit, really.

0:24:160:24:20

For this galette's filling, I'm using blueberries.

0:24:200:24:23

To this, I'm adding some vanilla seeds, a pinch of sugar

0:24:230:24:26

and a squeeze of lemon.

0:24:260:24:29

What holds all this together is a tablespoon of cornflour.

0:24:290:24:33

And this makes sure the liquid from the blueberries,

0:24:340:24:38

when it does cook, it doesn't leak out everywhere

0:24:380:24:41

and make our galette look like a big pizza at the end of it.

0:24:410:24:45

So what we're looking for is that sort of texture.

0:24:450:24:48

It's almost like a wallpaper paste blueberry mixture.

0:24:480:24:51

Looks nothing now, but when it's baked

0:24:510:24:53

it just looks delicious, so a little bit of that to one side.

0:24:530:24:57

You need to roll out your pastry now.

0:24:570:25:00

The secret with this is...gentle but firm.

0:25:000:25:02

And the least amount of flour as possible.

0:25:050:25:08

The more flour you add to anything, the drier it becomes.

0:25:080:25:11

Roll it out on a cold surface until it's about 5mm thick.

0:25:110:25:16

And then I'm going to use one of these rings or tins

0:25:180:25:21

I just have in my kitchen.

0:25:210:25:23

We're just going to cut these out.

0:25:230:25:25

The key to making the galettes is quite simple.

0:25:250:25:28

You make it like a crimped pasty.

0:25:280:25:30

So, you start at one end, crimp it...

0:25:300:25:33

and work your way round.

0:25:330:25:36

You've got these wonderful little tartlets - so simple to make.

0:25:360:25:39

Pop them onto a tray.

0:25:390:25:41

You don't need to be too fancy.

0:25:410:25:43

Nothing is too perfect - that's what I love about French patisserie.

0:25:430:25:48

Pop a decent amount of the blueberry mix into the casing

0:25:500:25:53

and put them in the fridge for half an hour,

0:25:530:25:56

which I did with some others earlier.

0:25:560:25:58

It's quite important to do this, it just firms up the pastry nicely,

0:26:000:26:04

just enables us to do some egg wash.

0:26:040:26:06

You don't need to be too fancy with this.

0:26:060:26:09

The final touch is to sprinkle plenty of Demerara sugar over

0:26:090:26:12

the top and then place them

0:26:120:26:14

in the oven at 250 degrees centigrade for 25 minutes.

0:26:140:26:18

While the galettes are cooking, I'm going to make a great

0:26:210:26:25

accompaniment for them - peanut chocolate bar ice cream -

0:26:250:26:27

and that all starts with making a custard.

0:26:270:26:30

For that, I'm going to use sugar, egg yolks, milk and cream.

0:26:320:26:37

Put 300ml of milk and 200ml of double cream into a pan

0:26:370:26:42

and start heating it up.

0:26:420:26:43

While this is happening, whisk together six egg yolks

0:26:430:26:46

and 75g of caster sugar.

0:26:460:26:49

When this is done, add the warm milk and cream into the bowl,

0:26:530:26:56

mix in together and return to the heat and then start stirring.

0:26:560:27:00

I always find the best way is to use a whisk

0:27:030:27:05

and, as the bubbles start to disappear,

0:27:050:27:07

the custard starts to thicken up.

0:27:070:27:10

At that exact time, you take it off the heat before it boils...

0:27:100:27:15

..pour this into a bowl.

0:27:160:27:18

If I was using a normal ice cream machine,

0:27:200:27:23

I'd be putting the chocolate bars into the warm custard now.

0:27:230:27:26

That way, the chocolate bars melt

0:27:260:27:28

and, as the machine that you're blending it in starts to

0:27:280:27:31

churn round, it churns it and cools it and freezes it at the same time.

0:27:310:27:35

But I like kitchen gadgets,

0:27:360:27:38

so I'm going to make my ice cream in a slightly different way.

0:27:380:27:42

I've let some of the custard cool down in the fridge.

0:27:420:27:45

To this, I'm going to add some whole peanut chocolate bars,

0:27:450:27:47

which is then frozen rock-solid.

0:27:470:27:50

It's then ready to churn.

0:27:520:27:54

All that happens with this is, there's a blade in there

0:27:540:27:57

and, when I hit this button,

0:27:570:27:59

the blade goes down and comes back up again.

0:27:590:28:01

While that's churning, it's time to take out the galettes from the oven.

0:28:030:28:07

These look like authentic galettes,

0:28:090:28:13

which is lovely, it's nice and delicate, like that.

0:28:130:28:16

The pastry just breaks open, like that. It's lovely and soft.

0:28:160:28:20

I've got MY fancy ice cream,

0:28:220:28:24

but a scoop from a normal ice cream maker, or even shop-bought,

0:28:240:28:27

will go down just as well with this great galette.

0:28:270:28:31

In fact, do you know what? It's my house.

0:28:320:28:36

I'm going to take two.

0:28:360:28:37

It is so, so good. You HAVE to make this at home.

0:28:440:28:48

Thanks for that, James, and thanks to all of our chefs today.

0:28:530:28:57

I think we all blended together beautifully.

0:28:570:28:59

And I hope to see you again very

0:28:590:29:01

soon for more of The Best Dishes Ever.

0:29:010:29:03

Until then, take care now. Bye-bye.

0:29:030:29:05

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