The Winter Larder The Edible Garden


The Winter Larder

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Transcript


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'I'm Alice Fowler.

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'I'm a gardener and a writer.

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'I grew up in the countryside,

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'but now my husband and I live in the city.

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'I get pleasures from simple things.

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'My chickens and home grown food.

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'This is my garden - a small Victorian terraced backyard, around 20 foot by around 60.

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'I'm trying to avoid shop-bought fruit and veg and live off home grown produce from my edible garden

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'that has to be both beautiful as well as productive.

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'This time, I'm focusing on filling my store cupboards

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'with vegetables that will feed us through the colder months,

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'as well as the pickles and preserves that will flavour our winter suppers.'

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There's nothing quite like brightly coloured jars to keep away

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the winter blues and if you're going to try and live off your garden,

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you need to preserve, bottle and pickle an awful lot.

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And I think there's just enough to keep me happy.

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'As well as having vegetables to eat in season, an edible garden needs to provide for the leaner months.

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'So whilst I've been living off my fresh produce, I've also been storing

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'and preserving any gluts my garden has provided.

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'My journey to a well-stocked winter larder began back in April.'

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The point is, my garden is a very average back garden.

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And if you can grow at least a meal a day in your average terrace,

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that's quite an achievement, and that's what I aim to do.

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'To avoid a hungry gap, I made sure that there was a succession of veg to keep harvesting.

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'So April and May were busy months.

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'Foraging in the wild larder helped whilst the garden took root.

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'And then the vegetables and fruits started coming

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'and my little garden began to provide delicious meals...

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'..and excess vegetables I could store.

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'The garden began to look pretty...

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'and it fed the insects too.

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'But not everything went to plan.

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'And the weather wasn't great.'

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Sometimes you break absolutely everything. Your back, your heart,

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your nails, the whole experience hurts.

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This is not the summer that I signed up for.

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'But the garden kept growing, and the food kept coming.

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'Bountiful crops meant party food for all.

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'And there were fresh salads every day.

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'But a year-round edible garden is not just about eating fresh pickings,

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'it's about making sure you have enough to store.

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'The key to a winter larder

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'is to grow crops that guarantee a plentiful harvest,

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'enough to enjoy fresh, and enough to preserve.

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'Courgettes and squashes can be prolific.

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'In a good season, one plant can easily produce 20 fruits.

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'So I am putting in two courgette plants

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'which should provide two people

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'enough courgettes to eat fresh and some to store.'

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This is my fail safe...courgette,

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because it's a variety called Defender,

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and it's particularly good for organic growers

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because it's very, very disease-resistant

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to mildews and what not,

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and whatever the weather,

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this one produces very traditional straight green courgettes

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and it will take up this entire area.

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Hi, Isobel!

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'At the bottom of the garden,

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'I'm planting out a squash called patty pan.

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'It's one of my favourites.

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'This plant is about six-weeks-old

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'and because I want each plant to produce so much fruit,

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'I'm giving them plenty of rich compost to grow in.

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'But the squash family are hungry plants,

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'so I also need to feed it to be sure of a bountiful harvest.

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'For that, I made a nitrogen-rich tonic from nettles rotted down in water.

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'Great for the plants, but with an evil smell. Effective but a bit deadly.'

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It's gone mouldy. How is that possible? Urgh!

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SHE COUGHS

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I love vegetables so much.

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I've got a kind of aversion.

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I used to be really good and it didn't bother me,

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and this one has kind of, is taking me over the edge.

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All I want to do is throw up every time I open this.

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'By June and July the garden is growing fast.

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'I'm harvesting broad beans, and what I can't eat fresh, I'll freeze for winter stews.

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'And there's other crops, too.'

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It's a bit like hunting for gold though.

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'I've grown two sorts of potatoes,

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'salad potatoes to eat now, and others that will store.'

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I have got...

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at least 60 or 70 potatoes...

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..from eight plants,

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which is more than enough for us.

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'If you are going to store potatoes,

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'they need to go in a cool dark place.

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'Left in the light and they'll turn green and become poisonous,

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'but like this they'll keep for months.'

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Hello, chicky chicks. Hello!

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'By August the summer squash I planted is fruiting like mad.'

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Well, our summer has been everything but perfect,

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but there are one or two things

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that have been giving me lots of joy

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and this patty pan,

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'these funny, small, butter-coloured flying saucers

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have been producing for a couple of weeks

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and eaten about this size,

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sliced up finely and dressed with lemon, or fried, they're fantastic.

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'My courgettes are also ripe for picking, and as I've hoped,

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'it's been a good crop so there's plenty to preserve for my winter larder,

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'whilst I can also enjoy them fresh on homemade pizza.

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'My summer special is courgette, parmesan, capers and olives, with fresh grown garden rocket.

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'It beats any takeaway.

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'Over the summer, I've made the most of my fruit gluts

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'and used my basic knowledge of preserving to make dried apple rings,

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'a sweet taste of summer for the colder months.

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'And damson cheese, a delicious alternative to jam.

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'And I like to preserve my herbs, too.

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'I've got lots of mint which I use to make mint tea,

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'but when it gets colder the leaves get damaged by frost so I dry them.'

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If you dry them in direct sunlight then they sort of fade to a yellow

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and they don't look nearly as nice, so out of the sunlight,

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and when they are dry to touch,

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then they're ready.

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'And there's nothing quite like homemade mint tea on a cold winter's day.

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'But I want to find out more about preserving,

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'so I'm taking some of my produce to Daphne Lambert and Miche Fabre Lewin.

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'I'm a novice compared to them,

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'as they have perfected the art of preserving fruit and vegetables.'

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That's good.

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So exactly what can and can you not preserve?

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Well, I think we'd say you could preserve everything.

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From mushrooms to damsons, to chard,

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to turnip, to sage, to onion.

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Everything can be preserved in some way.

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They have nutritional benefits too, so it's not just about lasting.

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They also aid digestion.

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'My first lesson is an easy way to preserve my courgettes.

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'Miche introduces me to an ingenious pickle recipe,

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'which you can eat as soon as you've made it, or keep it for many months.'

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''So this is my small harvest from my garden.

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If we were in the depths of winter, to open a jar

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and see that yellow next to the green, with a little bit of red.

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Particularly as this is quite a dull-tasting courgette.

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So we can really lift it.

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'First we shred perilla leaves, an Oriental herb I've been growing in my garden.

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We add it to some cider apple vinegar, concentrated apple juice and, finally, sliced garlic.

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Mm!

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Well, this is to your garden, Alice.

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It smells really good already.

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While that mix steeps, we make another pickling solution with cider vinegar

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and more concentrated apple juice, infused with cinnamon bark, caraway seeds and juniper berries.

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-We've got our sort of spices in. How about some herbs?

-Lovely.

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Some fresh herbs from the garden.

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With the bay leaves and rosemary immersed in the solution, next we add the courgettes and chillies.

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Miche cuts her vegetables along their natural growing lines, from their top to their bottom.

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This, she believes, brings out the more natural flavour.

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You want to mix that all in?

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Mm. Beautiful. Beautiful.

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We add the perilla and garlic mix to the ingredients.

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Fold them together and pack it into a sterilised jar,

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topping up with more vinegar solution.

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-This is from your garden. You've got your garden preserved in a jar.

-I know.

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And look how quick that is. You could be eating it now essentially as well.

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Miche recommends serving her pickles with bread and salad, or as a garnish to rice dishes and soup.

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It can be eaten right away or will last for many months.

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In addition to my courgette pickle, I'm eager to learn a preserving process I've never tried before.

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Daphne has agreed to teach me the long forgotten art of fermenting food.

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It's a technique that's been used for over 7,000 years.

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We're making sauerkraut - fermented cabbage.

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That doesn't initially sound very appetising.

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It's literally cabbage and caraway seed.

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That's really nice.

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Clearly, because I can't stop eating it!

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-Mm!

-Would you like to make some?

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Mm! Can't decide whether I want to eat it or make it more!

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Fermentation is simple. Apparently you just need a jar and some salt.

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The art is to cut things very, very finely

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because what we're going to do is use a little bit of salt to extract the liquid from the cells.

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-And the finer it's chopped, the more liquid you're going to get.

-Yes.

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Daphne explains that plants contain a range of beneficial bacteria.

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Fermentation happens when you create the right conditions for the good bacteria to grow

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and suppress the bacteria that makes food rot.

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So the next stage is to sprinkle on top of the cabbage some salt.

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You don't need to do too much, but there will be more salt going in as we progress,

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but at this stage you don't need much.

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And then you start pounding.

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So...

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The pounding break downs the cabbage cell structure and releases natural juices.

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It's very satisfying.

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It's a beautiful process.

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Look.

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You pound the cabbage for about ten minutes and then cover it and leave it overnight to help fermentation.

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Daphne has already left this bowl of cabbage overnight and the next stage is to add extra flavouring.

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You could, if you've got a lot of windfalls, you could put apple in it, apple and cabbage is quite nice,

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add a tartness to it,

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or you could layer it up with other vegetables.

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I mean, I think this is beautiful to layer it up with.

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This is Swiss chard and it should add an earthy, nutty flavour to the sauerkraut.

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So we're going to put about three handfuls

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into the bottle and you're going to gently press it down

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and the idea now is to make it without air.

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The key is to make sure that the vegetables are submerged beneath the salty cabbage juices,

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so no bad bacteria can breed inside the jar.

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Perfect.

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-This has to stay in liquid.

-Right.

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And we're going to weight it down with some water.

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And in the next 24 hours it will start bubbling and fermenting.

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-Beautiful colours through that one.

-Really beautiful.

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My day with Daphne and Miche has inspired me to expand my winter larder

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and look beyond my dried fruits and jams.

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I didn't grow any cabbage because they take up quite a lot of room and I don't usually like them,

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but I couldn't get enough of that sauerkraut, so I'm buying my first veg of the year to make my own.

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September brings another opportunity to add to my winter food stocks.

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A glut of runner beans.

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At this point I'm just actually being very traditional and freezing a lot because...

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now they seem, kind of, frozen beans don't seem that exciting.

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Actually, come January...to add to kind of curries and soups, they're brilliant.

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As well as freezing, I'm also preserving some, using Miche's pickle recipe.

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The key to a productive garden is good preparation

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and as the autumn approaches and the garden slows down, it's time to think about the next year.

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One thing I want to do is make more space for vegetables,

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so the chickens are going to have to move.

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Hello, girls. How you doing? Hello. Are you OK?

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You are going to be moving. Put your head back in. It'll almost be over.

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Good girl. Bye-bye!

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My friend Dave has come to help.

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Their new home is next to the compost

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and will be more spacious,

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so I could even increase my little chicken family.

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OK.

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They've fertilised the ground that they've left behind, so I'll get a great new growing space.

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And then a bit this way.

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There.

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Gertrude.

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Good girl.

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With a new trellis fence in place, Gertrude and Alice have their own chicken compound

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where they can roam freely outside of their coop.

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I am delighted.

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Got a good growing space over there, it's where the chickens were, so they've been fertilising that

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and these girls get to have a very happy life.

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Scratching in a lot of dirt.

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You guys aren't going to want to go to bed, are you ?

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A small, but tasty addition to my store cupboard is dried seeds

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and I've been collecting different types all summer from my mature flower heads,

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like these poppy seeds.

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But supplies for my winter larder are to be found well beyond my garden fence.

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As autumn approaches, I head out to a nearby river bank to forage for some hidden gems.

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Depending on who you are,

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Himalayan balsam is either a very uninvited guest,

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an alien that's taking over our wilder bits,

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particularly by rivers and damp places,

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or it's rather a tasty snack and a very pretty flower, much loved by our bees.

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They have these incredible exploding seed pods,

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and they really do explode.

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And inside those are little...

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They look quite like apple pips,

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a bit peppery, and they're amazing when you use them to bake breads.

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So, I thought I'd do my bit of plant control

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by collecting as many seeds as possible.

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Isobel!

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Back in my edible garden and there are more seeds to harvest.

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Enough to feed the neighbourhood wildlife as well as myself.

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These multi-headed sunflowers, I'm going to leave over the winter

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because once you rub all of this off, that's where the seeds are, and if I leave this and it's basically

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a really cool bird feeder that looks great and the birds can enjoy the seeds.

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These really big sunflower heads... I don't leave to the birds

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because they also have giant seeds, which means I can roast them and salt them and snack on them.

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As the colder weather sets in, there's another job I can get on with and that's to turn my compost.

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Compost feeds your soil and a well-fed garden means plentiful vegetables.

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So, the time has come. Out of the way, Alice.

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Yes, to do the compost.

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And it's got into a bit of a mess really, but autumn is the perfect time to deal with this

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because you're starting to produce a lot more material to go on to the compost

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because you're cutting stuff back, but also it's had a year or so

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of sitting round, and as you get down to the bottom...

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it's going to be the good stuff, and that's what matters because

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you can't grow good vegetables without constantly feeding the soil.

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It's essential.

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And into the compost goes all the obvious stuff.

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The stuff from the garden, as well as a lot of peelings and kitchen scraps,

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but nothing cooked.

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No bread, no pasta, no rice.

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Anything like that will be a really big mistake, because you just attract rats really quickly.

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These are compost worms.

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Once your compost reaches a good state they just appear.

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They're like one of compost's miracles, really,

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and partly why these girls are having a good scratch.

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Come on. Out the way.

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By spreading my compost now, it'll do two things.

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It will feed my winter greens and allow the worms to dig the goodness back into the ground.

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And by spring,

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we'll have fantastic soil.

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November brings the last opportunity to plant out some winter crops,

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so that I'll have something fresh to pick in February.

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So, in order to make sure that I am continually able to eat off this garden,

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these winter veg are the last things that I will plant out this year.

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These are an oriental mustard called Golden Streak and it's a very finely cut mustard.

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It tastes amazing.

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A really good peppery spicy flavour.

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Such a fine, pretty little plant.

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And they look so lovely in winter salads.

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This is a radicchio, which is a bitter Italian leaf,

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like a lettuce.

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You can either cook with it, or eat it very small in a traditional salad.

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And they need this cool weather.

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In fact it's the very cold, frosty days that concentrate the flavour.

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During the summer, you might try and ram plants in, oh, you could go a bit closer.

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You can't do that in the winter, they need lots of air circulation around them

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or else they get the kind of mould that rots the leaves away.

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Although most of my efforts are now focused on the next year, I have one last harvest.

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All summer long, the willowy stems of the Jerusalem artichokes have been growing almost unnoticed

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at the back of my borders.

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The time has come to dig up the Jerusalem artichokes which are these incredibly tall plants

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which make up the backdrop to the garden.

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They grow, quite literally, in the background,

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doing very little other than growing very, very tall all year,

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and the point about them is that they really are

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a slacker vegetable

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because you do nothing whatsoever.

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You don't feed them, you don't look after them, you don't water them,

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and in return, you get a huge amount

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of these very knobbly white tubers,

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which can be roasted

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or fried or baked.

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I think they have suffered a little from having a bad reputation.

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They are known to make you fart a lot, which is why some people call them fartichokes.

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And there is a trick or a way round that and that is to use the herb winter savoury when you cook them

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because this sort of counter-balances their gassy properties.

0:25:040:25:09

If you don't cook with winter savoury, you will propel yourself round the garden the next day.

0:25:090:25:16

So this

0:25:180:25:19

is why it's a slacker vegetable

0:25:190:25:23

because all you have to do now is plant

0:25:230:25:26

one back in the ground and this is the bounty from just one plant.

0:25:260:25:32

Look at all that. And I did nothing.

0:25:320:25:34

I really... Chuck a bit of earth on that one that I've chucked down there

0:25:340:25:38

and the whole process starts again.

0:25:380:25:40

And you don't have to dig them all up at once, you can just leave them in the ground over the winter

0:25:400:25:45

and take them up as and when you need them.

0:25:450:25:47

And here is winter savoury, the modest little herb which will save your blushes.

0:25:500:25:55

It has a delicious spicy flavour and it likes to grow in a sunny,

0:25:550:25:59

well-drained part of your garden, but will come back year after year.

0:25:590:26:03

I'll add to it the artichokes to make a delicious gratin,

0:26:030:26:06

which I am going to serve at a harvest supper party.

0:26:060:26:08

For my gratin, I simply boil the artichokes in their skins, then

0:26:120:26:15

peel and slice and layer them into a baking dish.

0:26:150:26:17

A quick seasoning with black pepper, garlic and my winter savoury

0:26:190:26:23

and then it's time to add a carton of cream,

0:26:230:26:25

butter and a breadcrumb and parmesan cheese topping.

0:26:250:26:29

I'll bake it in the oven and serve it warm as a nutty flavoured winter treat.

0:26:320:26:37

For my harvest supper, my friends are bringing edible gifts.

0:26:390:26:43

They're gathering veg from their own little plots to add to the menu.

0:26:430:26:46

It's time to welcome my friends.

0:26:530:26:55

-Hello!

-Hello.

-Ooh, it looks cold.

0:26:550:26:57

-Beetroot sorbet, it's very cold.

-Fantastic.

0:26:570:27:00

-Who's here? Who's here?

-Hello!

-Hello. What have you made?

0:27:000:27:04

-Vegetarian moussaka.

-With?

0:27:040:27:07

-My own aubergines and red peppers.

-Fantastic.

0:27:070:27:10

DOORBELL RINGS

0:27:100:27:11

-Hello!

-Hello.

-What did you make?

0:27:110:27:13

-Pumpkin curry.

-Aw! Thank you.

0:27:130:27:16

Right.

0:27:160:27:18

So, this is Moroccan lamb stew

0:27:180:27:22

with kale, parsley, celery, beetroot,

0:27:220:27:26

runner beans, garlic and onions from the garden.

0:27:260:27:30

Nice organic lamb. Fartichoke for those who are brave.

0:27:300:27:33

Are we talking about fartichokes? It sounds concerning.

0:27:330:27:36

It's not fartichokes, it's Jerusalem artichokes.

0:27:360:27:39

-They're really good.

-Well, no. Everybody has to eat a bit of that.

0:27:410:27:44

Have you got enough there?

0:27:440:27:46

I'm really impressed with the moussaka.

0:27:480:27:50

-It's very good.

-I'm quite proud because it's home-grown onions,

0:27:500:27:54

home-grown garlic, aubergine and red peppers.

0:27:540:27:57

Shall we have a toast? To all the lovely food we grew ourselves.

0:27:570:28:01

Happy harvest.

0:28:010:28:03

At the beginning of the year I set out to make a garden that had to be productive as well as beautiful.

0:28:220:28:27

And through my little experiment I found a way of gardening that was more gentle.

0:28:340:28:39

It seemed more free and nature was more responsive to it

0:28:390:28:42

and I think it's changed the way I will garden forever.

0:28:420:28:46

This funny little space has produced way more than I could have imagined.

0:28:460:28:50

I've not just grown food, I've grown happy.

0:28:500:28:52

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