Suffolk The Hairy Bikers' Food Tour of Britain


Suffolk

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Transcript


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We're the Hairy Bikers, on the road for regional recipes to rev up appetites.

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We're riding county to county to discover, cook and enjoy the best of British.

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We're here to define the true taste of Suffolk.

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Suffolk is a really rural county.

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-Look at this, there are thousands of little rinky, dinky villages.

-You're not wrong, it is rural.

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Even the county town of Ipswich, their football team, is called the Tractor Boys.

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I don't know too much about Suffolk, it's like England's forgotten county.

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-I know about the pork, Suffolk hams and sausages, fabulous.

-Where there's hams,

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there's pigs, and where there's pigs there's apples. Ying and Yang, dude.

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Foods go together like that, don't they? I'm freezing, this bus is never going to come.

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Come on, on your bike.

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On our quest to define the real flavours of Suffolk,

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we cook up a dish that shows off the best of the county's larder.

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We sample flour ground at a water mill with a 1,000-year history.

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Our wheat goes up and the flour comes down.

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We ferret about in the hedgerows in search of wild rabbit.

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Representing Suffolk in the cook-off is Chris Lee.

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Will we be able to beat him, using the county's finest ingredients?

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Here we are, Bury St Edmunds, beautiful town in the county of Suffolk.

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We've got to get to the root of Suffolk food.

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Let's see what the people think about the county larder, the palate, the taste.

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He's always the voice of reason.

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What is the iconic food of Suffolk?

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Pork, we're in pig country.

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Pork of course, it's got to be.

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I've got a huge joint tonight and my best mate is a butcher, so I'm laughing.

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-I imagine pork and apples.

-It is pork all time.

-It comes up again, pork and apple.

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-Just cider.

-Cider and a bit of belly pork.

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And there is a lovely shop down there. They'll sort you out in there.

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This looks great, they've been here since 1860.

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It's quality this, isn't it?

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-Morning, gentlemen.

-There's a fella with a frying pan.

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Pleased to see you. Look at this!

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It's a St Edmunds Bury purse.

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What is a St Edmunds Bury purse?

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It's some English beef that's been hung for three or four weeks.

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Absolutely lean, make a pocket of wholegrain mustard

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and ale cheese and then we shut the purse and then we cook it.

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Do you want a job! You're good, you, aren't you?

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-So it's from the hind quarter, this bit of meat?

-Absolutely.

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It's absolutely got to be perfection.

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-Try that.

-It's beautiful.

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And with that is a sloe wine because the berries here are full of them.

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-Thanks very much, good health.

-It's the only way to live.

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The smallest pub in Britain.

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ALL TALK AT ONCE

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-What's the beer like, boys?

-Good, you'd better have one and find out.

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It's Greene King down here, isn't it?

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Good Suffolk beer, brewed in Bury St Edmunds.

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-Cheers, guys.

-This is the IPA.

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-Very good.

-The IPA for lunch time, the Abbot for in front of the fire.

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Tell us about traditional Suffolk food.

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A bit of game pie maybe, pheasant.

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A bit of pigeon and rabbit if you can get it.

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-What are the traditional dishes?

-Organic pork.

-Pigs, yes.

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-Pork it is, it's got to be, hasn't it?

-Yes, and you like cooking it don't you?

-We do.

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-We like eating it more.

-That shows!

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20% of the UK's outdoor-reared pork comes from Suffolk,

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so that's definitely what we have to cook.

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But we don't want any old Suffolk pork, we want the best

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and that means visiting Blythburgh Free Range and Jimmy Butler,

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who has been voted Pig Farmer of the Year.

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Plenty of space here.

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It's wonderful, the amount of space they got is fantastic.

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-They have an acre to run in.

-How many pigs do you have?

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About 18,000, between 18,000 and 20,000 most of the time.

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I thought pigs were lazy creatures that lay around.

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-No, no.

-They're like racehorses!

-Oh yeah.

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They'll play, they will muck about, they are like children in the playground, they just enjoy life.

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Go on.

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-Not a bad life being a free-range pig is it?

-These aren't a rare breed pig, but they are unique?

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They are unique, yes. They are what we designed for ourselves, they are a cross-bred.

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What was wrong with the pig as it was?

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Couldn't get enough back fat on it and length to it,

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so we had to create the pig that could grow a little bit slower

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but still create the flavour we manage to get into them by doing them free range.

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Right, I think that one's ready for the slaughter, don't you?

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Balding, scalding and turn it into burgers.

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You can fall out with folk really quickly, you know.

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I think Pauline has got some food ready for us.

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-Lovely.

-I thought that would appeal.

-You're not wrong.

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Let me introduce you to Pauline, my wife. She's been cooking all night.

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Oh yes!

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-Look at the crackling on that!

-I bet you hear that a lot, Pauline, don't you?

-Yes.

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What's your secret for cracking?

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Dry it off, rub salt and olive oil into the crackling.

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Most important of all, heat the oven hot

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for half an hour and turn it down and I cooked it for six hours.

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-I think it's time we took the top off.

-We couldn't possibly.

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This is one of the great pleasures of life.

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And that's Dave being polite.

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This is the shoulder which is very economical to buy.

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The meat almost goes like a confit. It's just so rich.

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You can cut it out with a spoon.

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Absolutely. You can see she's a good cook, I'm now twice the man she married.

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You wait until I get mine, you know?

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Would you like some apple sauce? It's homemade. Bon appetit.

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That's so full of flavour, Jimmy, it tastes so piggy!

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Normal pigs are about 18 or 19 weeks when they are killed.

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But these are about 24 to 26 weeks and because of that,

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they've had the time to develop flavour into themselves and that's what you're eating.

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You're eating pork your grandparents used to eat

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that sadly we've lost and the modern-day farming doesn't have nowadays.

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-We can't come to Suffolk and not cook pork.

-It would be criminal, mate.

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It would be, wouldn't it?

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It's time to get cooking this delicious Suffolk pork, and there couldn't be a place more inspiring

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than the Maltings at Snape on the banks of the River Ore.

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There's a concert hall here that was founded by Benjamin Britten and Sir Peter Pears.

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We're cooking up Suffolk Pork in a mushroom, cider and cream sauce with caramelised toffee apples.

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-CHEERING

-Now look at this, this is a chop.

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And that's a free-range pork chop from the Blythburgh Farm.

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What were going to do is cook them in cider with mushrooms, shallots, cream, a bit of mustard.

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Everything from Suffolk. It's a really good kind of dish to have with mashed potatoes and carrots.

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This is extra-virgin rapeseed oil, it's produced in Suffolk

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and you can use it instead of olive oil and as its local, we are at it.

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And as there's a few here, we'll do three pans full.

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What I've done is season that on the griddle pan that's really hot.

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Stand that up there until I find the tongs.

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The idea is, you get a nice bit of crackling.

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-I need three onions.

-Miles, come here, hold that, will you? Good lad.

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I don't want this too hot.

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-We don't.

-What we're going to do is do that with all the pork chops,

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rub some of that lovely salt into the fat and stand them up together in a little line.

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Just like a band of soldiers.

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At this point, with the onions, don't want them caramelised,

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because we've got caramelised apples,

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so the pork and cider is like a white stew.

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One of the elemental sounds of life that, an onion sizzling.

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You can be quite rustic with the onions. That's well charred.

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Cajun, Cajun.

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-Burn it and call it Cajun.

-Exactly.

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Yes!

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You looked a bit kind of wrong.

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To this, I have some fine Suffolk bacon, mix that up like that.

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Handful in there, doo-doos in there.

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Sweat those down

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and I will chop the mushrooms now. I must say, Mr King, those chops are great.

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Now, to the pan add some mushrooms.

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Not fancy mushrooms, just mushrooms from the mushroom farm.

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Now these are shallots, they've been blanched for about five minutes because I want the onions whole.

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Look at that, all those lovely juices out of the pork chop will slightly caramelise.

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So in each pan, a little bit of thyme...

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..some parsley and a bay leaf.

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Two, three.

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Keep that stirring. Imagine all those flavours just mixing in perfect harmony.

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Next step, cider.

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Aspinalls dry, premier cru from your lovely county.

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Put half a bottle in each, bring that to the boil.

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One for me, and one for the pan. That'll do.

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Bring it to the boil.

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-That will be hot that.

-Yes!

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Now, we need to put four chops into each pan.

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-I think we should go for three and have two on the side.

-All right.

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Yes, all of those juices in there, waste not want not.

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-Pick your nose and eat it.

-LAUGHTER

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It's time to get on with the toffee apples.

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These aren't any apples, these are Suffolk Cox's apples.

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Ow!

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-That will be hot.

-No, I got the sharp end.

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Peel, cored and quartered.

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What we're going to do to make the toffee apples, this muscovado sugar goes into this bowl.

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-First lot. Kingy?

-What, mate?

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-Do you think it's a good idea to turn the chops, put the top ones on the bottom?

-Stir it, look.

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What happens is, there is a leach of citric acid that have been coated with the muscovado sugar.

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Here's another one. What I'm going to do is put the chops into the oven and then the finish off the sauce.

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If you have noticed, we've reduced the heat on the griddle pan

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because we want the apples to soften and caramelise.

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-Who's going to wash up those griddle pans?

-We will leave them to soak in the river for a bit.

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The chops have been simmering in the cider, the shallots, the onions, bacon.

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We take those out and put them in the oven for a bit.

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Right, the sauce.

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I think we can put everything back in one pan now, do you?

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Now, all that is starting to caramelise nicely.

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They will need another 10 minutes before they are sticky and cooked.

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To the pan, add some cream.

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LAUGHTER

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It said on the recipe.

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And reduce.

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And to that, some good, Suffolk mustard, wholegrain would be better because it's got texture.

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Two of those. It is a mustard cream sauce.

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I have just had this pan on here so I get the temperature up.

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It's a good bubble,

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I will let it reduce because the sauce could be runny.

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All the shallots are still in a oner. Nice herbs, nice mushrooms.

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I think we're about there.

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The sauce is reduced, it's thick and tasty.

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Pork chops are ready, stood by, standing.

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-The toffee apples are sticky and kind of cooked.

-We're ready.

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It's like Desperate Dan's breakfast.

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-That one's nice.

-Yes.

-That's a comedy chop.

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That is a comedy chop.

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Scatter those in a cascade off the chops.

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Couple of those lovely shallots, now poached down in the cream.

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It's kind of a dish from heaven.

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You're going to love it.

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-That's it, that's it.

-Oh, look at that!

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Some parsley sprinkles, not too much. A little bit of mash.

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Some carrots.

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There we have it, here is our taste of Suffolk. APPLAUSE

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Suffolk Pork is so easy to prepare and smells fantastic, but what will such a big hungry crowd make of it?

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There you are, my darling.

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There are a lot of mouths to feed here! Let's get their verdict.

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-What do you reckon?

-Superb, absolutely beautiful.

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-I've done mine with a tomato base before, but I'm converted to cream, it's good.

-Go on son!

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Size of that, the poor lad will choke!

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Now tell us what it's like.

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The seed mustard was the right way to go.

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-Lovely!

-What do you reckon?

-Very good.

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I think you like it, so, young lady, what do you reckon?

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Worth waiting for.

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CHEERING It's all been eaten, yeah.

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-A nice, local roll.

-So, thumbs up from Suffolk?

-Yes!

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That went down a storm, thankfully we had enough to go round!

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The people of Suffolk were definitely satisfied customers.

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Next, an even bigger challenge is around the corner.

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As always, we're taking on one of the county's top chefs in their restaurant,

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using local ingredients to see who can best define the taste of the region.

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It will be up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents the true flavours of Suffolk.

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Our opponent today is...

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Chris Lee, head chef of The Bildeston Crown.

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One of the Good Food Guide's Young Chefs of the Year.

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He loves to showcase local fare and his menu reflects his commitment to Suffolk produce.

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What we believe in is flavour. Yes, there is the odd foam, the odd jelly,

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but it's there to complement the food. The food that we do at The Crown is very relaxed.

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A glass of wine in front of the fireplace, some chips and bearnaise,

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a 32oz rib of beef, Suffolk cattle, fantastic.

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Who would want anything else? The local produce is amazing.

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You don't need to go out of Suffolk for produce, you go to the farmers' markets,

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the people that do the produce. They care about it. People are proud to show it off in Suffolk.

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Tenderness and flavour is definitely what the local produce is about.

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Everybody on their menu can say it's local this, local that. But you need to shout about it.

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Do it cos you care about it. Get your guys involved in the kitchen, that's what cooking's about.

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The awards over the last few years have been fantastic. I was lucky last year in the Good Food Guide

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to get Up and Coming Chef of Great Britain.

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Obviously I'll now have to work for Chef of the Year.

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To take on the Bikers, my taste of Suffolk is roasted mallard with gizzard and heart stew.

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-So, Chris...

-Yes?

-..In the battle for the Plate of Suffolk, what are you going to do for us?

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Right, we've got a lovely mallard from a farm just two minutes up the road.

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-Does all the game for us at the hotel.

-Well, that's local!

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-Everything we are going to do, the potatoes, kale, squash, all local.

-Headline that dish!

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Everything. We're doing roasted mallard with slow-roasted gizzards and heart stew.

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Chris, I know you prepare lots of this dish in advance.

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Could you show us which bits of duck you're using?

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Yes. We just nip the skin, just bring it all the way down, keep the skin on the bird.

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That's a lovely colour, Chris. How long would that be hung?

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For a couple of days, you don't need more.

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So we've got the two legs which we're going to really cook slowly in some duck fat.

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We've got the thigh which we'll braise and then mix together with a bit of a mousse

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and we're going to make a little golf ball, so all the flavour.

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The dish is about everything on the duck. OK, taking the breast off, nice and gently.

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So we've got one lovely breast.

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The carcass gets roasted really slowly, we're going to make a duck stock, cooked for about 10 hours.

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-10 hours?!

-Yeah.

-Have you got a room.

-Ready for this?

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One will be for the sauce, the other part, we'll do a clear consomme to go with the dish as well.

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Nice. Fantastic.

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So just trimming up these, and again, take the fillets off.

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The fillets get used for clarification of the consomme.

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So again, everything gets used. So a little bit of salt.

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We don't use pepper, it doesn't bring out anything.

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-Good quality salt, obviously?

-Maldon sea salt, just down the road.

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Very good. OK, the pan has obviously been on for a while.

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We're going to roast these off, melt down some of the fat.

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You cook it first on that side to leach out the fat?

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Yes, turn it over. Same colour again, but everything goes in the pan.

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Just leave those ticking over.

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So what we're going to do, go through the bone there, just nice and slowly.

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We'll roast it really slowly, because it can be quite tough meat.

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This, we're going to slow braise.

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I'll just pop these in the oven.

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I'll put them in for three minutes, nice and pink.

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Then I'll just leave them to rest.

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The potatoes, known as dauphinoise, I just like to call them a garlic cream potato.

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We've infused some garlic with rosemary and thyme,

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cream, milk, brought it up to boil with a little bit of nutmeg.

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So they go in and we just colour them off a little bit.

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In the fat from the duck!

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We cook them really, really slowly the day before on about 150 for an hour,

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take the foil off, get a bit of colour on them and then press them.

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That's how you get your layers.

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-Then they go in the fridge.

-Fabulous.

-Just tick it over.

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-Look at that lovely glaze comes on to it!

-Nice and slowly.

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Okay, so we'll check the duck, and then the duck out the oven...

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Okay, so still a little bit pink.

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Remember they're going to be rested for a couple of minutes. We'll just leave them to rest.

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And then, another little thing, the juices, why waste it? Get it on.

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-Yeah!

-Nice and gently, cos obviously they're are now getting to the soft stage.

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Seriously, it's a beautiful thing.

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It's a work of art!

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OK, so we have the hearts and the gizzards.

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-They're big hearts, aren't they?

-Yes, big birds.

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All we need to do is nip off the top,

0:18:360:18:38

have a little look inside to make sure they're all nice and clean.

0:18:380:18:42

Again, into the quarters like that.

0:18:420:18:44

Now, you nip that top off because you don't use that?

0:18:440:18:47

Yeah, it's got tubes and things like that.

0:18:470:18:49

And the gizzards. We're just going to take off any white like that.

0:18:490:18:54

Again, the gizzards take a very long time to cook really, really slow.

0:18:540:18:59

-They're very rich, aren't they?

-They are.

0:18:590:19:01

-A gizzard is a second stomach that breaks up food.

-That's what it is.

0:19:010:19:04

They get salted for two hours with some rosemary, thyme and bay leaf and a little bit of garlic.

0:19:040:19:08

Then wash the salt off and they go into a little duck fat which just

0:19:080:19:11

sits there, and we tick them over. That will take about eight hours.

0:19:110:19:15

I'll just clear my board, cos that's me down for my raw meat.

0:19:150:19:18

And these are the cuts of duck you prepared earlier?

0:19:180:19:20

This is the leg. Again, it has been really slowly cooked in duck fat.

0:19:200:19:25

We've then just left it to cool a bit and trimmed,

0:19:250:19:27

-just made it very chef-y, which I'm going to pan fry.

-Crispy duck.

-Can't beat it.

0:19:270:19:31

Then here, this is the gizzard which has been confited really slowly in the fat.

0:19:310:19:36

It's got the mousse around it, it's been set, then what we're going to do is just pan-fry.

0:19:360:19:41

Keep the cling film on to keep the shape.

0:19:410:19:44

-What's in the mousse, Chris?

-The mousse is just all the scraps from the duck.

0:19:440:19:48

-All the little bits?

-Everything.

-What's the herb?

0:19:480:19:50

The herb is parsley. So it's like a duck terrine, which we're just going to warm up.

0:19:500:19:54

These are obviously the thigh, which has been cooked really slowly, flank down,

0:19:540:19:58

rolled into nice little pieces and then paned into bread crumbs.

0:19:580:20:02

-I'm just starting to think we needed to come two days earlier.

-I know! I know!

0:20:020:20:06

We've got to do it from scratch! We're on a hiding to nowt.

0:20:060:20:10

We've got a drumstick, duck balls and a sausage!

0:20:100:20:12

OK, all into the pan.

0:20:120:20:14

-You're still keeping the cling film on?

-Keep the cling film on, yeah.

0:20:140:20:17

-Will that work?.

-Yeah, yeah. It doesn't burn. It just sits there. It's a chef-y thing.

-Ooooh!

0:20:170:20:23

We'll just put these to the frier, literally two minutes before we start plating the dish.

0:20:230:20:29

Nice and crispy, crispy balls. So I'll just pop those in the oven.

0:20:290:20:33

I can't get over the whole cling film thing, dude!

0:20:330:20:35

OK, let's do the vegetables. Very simple, we're going to do a squash, fantastic time of year for it.

0:20:350:20:40

-What we do for the puree, we peel it, into small chunks, place into a bag...

-Sous-vide!

0:20:400:20:45

Yeah, basically sous-vide cooking.

0:20:450:20:47

Nice and spongy, nice and soft.

0:20:470:20:49

It's got a knob of butter in there and some seasoning.

0:20:490:20:52

And this literally goes into the blender.

0:20:520:20:54

Everything's in there, nothing's been wasted, nothing's been lost.

0:20:540:20:59

If you find it's not coming together - a touch of warm milk. Keep it warm.

0:20:590:21:02

If you put cold milk in, it'll start having that grainy feel to it.

0:21:020:21:05

Going back to the heart stew, we've prepped the hearts,

0:21:050:21:08

we've marinaded them in red wine and thyme overnight.

0:21:080:21:11

-Taken the liquor off them in the morning. A bit of flour on them.

-What are the crispy bits?

0:21:110:21:15

Some diced carrots and diced celeriac and some diced shallots.

0:21:150:21:18

A touch of port and that really gets the taste buds going.

0:21:180:21:21

So that goes on the stove and then the consomme.

0:21:210:21:23

A fantastic part of the dish.

0:21:230:21:25

-And now the kale.

-Kale's great.

-It's been blanched in boiling water,

0:21:250:21:29

then all we do is pan fry it in a little bit of butter, bit of salt,

0:21:290:21:32

touch of pepper - cos that's where the pepper comes in - and that's it.

0:21:320:21:35

-We have the puree here, fantastic consistency.

-That's silky.

0:21:350:21:39

All we're going to do is, in case there's any lumps...

0:21:390:21:41

-You'd still pass that through a sieve?

-Yes, a little sieve,

0:21:410:21:44

cos we're only doing a couple of portions.

0:21:440:21:47

OK, so we'll put all our sauces on.

0:21:470:21:49

Pan for the kale. This is obviously where it all comes together.

0:21:490:21:52

-Knob of butter into the pan.

-SIZZLING

0:21:520:21:55

You want it that brown, like a beurre noisette,

0:21:550:21:57

cos again, it's more flavour than just a normal bit of butter.

0:21:570:22:00

OK, plenty of butter, in goes the kale.

0:22:000:22:03

You're flashing that

0:22:030:22:04

-with no heat other than what's been retained in the pan, yeah?

-That's it.

0:22:040:22:09

It's kept going, and that's it. Fantastic.

0:22:090:22:11

Onto there. All I'm going to do now, start plating up...

0:22:110:22:15

We'll just squeeze these out, cos you don't want the juices on.

0:22:150:22:18

Just take the cutter off, on goes the kale...

0:22:210:22:24

Make sure there's no cling film on it, cos it doesn't go down very well!

0:22:240:22:28

So the puree...

0:22:280:22:31

-Just trim it off. For the chefs.

-Oh, really?

-Nice and rested.

0:22:310:22:34

-Ah, smart, man!

-OK, so the heart stew...

0:22:370:22:40

just into the pot.

0:22:400:22:42

The duck stock, it's been reduced down.

0:22:420:22:45

On with the consomme. Into the pan.

0:22:450:22:49

We've got some clementines, cooked down in their own juices. A touch of orange.

0:22:500:22:54

Blitz them up with stock syrup and then put into here.

0:22:540:22:56

It's called an espuma.

0:22:560:22:58

What... That is fantastic.

0:22:580:23:00

-Finish off with a parsley...

-Wow.

0:23:000:23:04

What's lovely is, if you're presented with that on the table, it's an adventure of food.

0:23:040:23:08

But one food - duck. How wonderful's that?

0:23:080:23:11

So we have roasted breast of mallard, slow roasted leg,

0:23:110:23:14

finished off with a heart stew, the consomme and the clementine foam.

0:23:140:23:19

I've got to have a taste of this.

0:23:190:23:21

Oh, wowser! It's a duck a l'orange in a glass! The duck hearts...

0:23:230:23:27

You know what's nice? The texture.

0:23:270:23:29

-That's so rich.

-I think we might be in trouble here.

-I think we're knackered.

0:23:290:23:33

I'm really looking forward to this.

0:23:330:23:34

-The garlic in the potatoes is so rich.

-The gizzard sausage and mousse.

0:23:340:23:39

-Take that with the kale..

-Oh, wow!

0:23:390:23:42

-Moist.

-Moist.

0:23:420:23:43

Now then, duck balls.

0:23:430:23:45

Half...

0:23:450:23:46

-I'd love a pile of them with a pint!

-Confit.

0:23:490:23:52

That's my favourite, I so love dark meat.

0:23:520:23:56

It's an immaculately presented restaurant dish.

0:23:560:23:59

Boy, does Chris know how to cook!

0:23:590:24:01

-Oh aye!

-I could be a piranha in a former life!

0:24:010:24:04

But it's the locals who will decide whose dish is best in the blind tasting coming up.

0:24:040:24:09

To take on Chris' duck, we need to find something packed with flavour.

0:24:090:24:12

Well, look around us, this rural county must be full of game.

0:24:120:24:16

Let's go wild!

0:24:160:24:18

Hi, Robert.

0:24:250:24:27

'We're here to meet Robert Gooch, owner of the Wild Meat Company.'

0:24:270:24:31

-What's that?

-That's a hare, yeah.

0:24:310:24:34

-Ah!

-A lot of wood pigeons behind, we're full of wild meat here.

0:24:340:24:39

-It's your business, isn't it?

-We're trying to create an niche where wild food will be seen as an alternative

0:24:390:24:45

to organic, an alternative to free range and conventional.

0:24:450:24:48

-Can you show us what you've got?

-Sure, d'you want to come in?

-Aye.

0:24:480:24:51

We're nearly out of the game season for the birds, but we've got a few still left. Partridges.

0:24:510:24:57

French red-legged partridge.

0:24:570:24:59

Wood pigeon. We've had a bumper year for woodcock.

0:24:590:25:02

To me this is the finest of all game birds. We've got rabbit and hare in here.

0:25:020:25:07

These are the hares that you saw in the field. They're quite a lot bigger than a rabbit.

0:25:070:25:11

Aye. Does the wild rabbit taste different to farmed rabbit?

0:25:110:25:14

Yes, I think it's got a slightly gamey flavour, a slightly stronger flavour,

0:25:140:25:18

firmer texture of meat. Rabbits are one of the most popular things at farmers' markets.

0:25:180:25:24

Of all the wild food Suffolk has to offer, rabbit really takes our fancy.

0:25:240:25:29

-What exactly is this, Robert?

-A cold rabbit pie.

0:25:290:25:32

Traditionally every Christmas morning lots of Suffolk families have cold rabbit pie.

0:25:320:25:37

I have it in the summer as a cold lunch with salad.

0:25:370:25:41

-It's wonderful rabbit pie, isn't it?

-A great, proper Suffolk tradition.

0:25:410:25:45

Lovely.

0:25:450:25:47

Robert often calls upon the expertise of Johnny.

0:25:470:25:50

By ferreting for rabbits, he's also helping local farmers protect their crops.

0:25:500:25:54

My grandfather has done it, my grandfather's grandfather.

0:25:540:25:58

-It's got a long tradition in these parts.

-Johnny, why are we talking so quietly?

0:25:580:26:01

So that we don't make the rabbits hear us.

0:26:010:26:04

This morning I set out some nets on the hedge down here over the holes.

0:26:040:26:09

Being quiet is the key to this.

0:26:090:26:11

This is one big warren running all the way through to the end of this thicket.

0:26:110:26:15

The rabbits could come out at any place.

0:26:150:26:17

It's like cowboys and indians, this, but just for rabbits.

0:26:170:26:20

The girls here are all albinos because they're a lot easier to see in the hedge.

0:26:200:26:24

-Lift it up, put her in, put it back.

-Right-oh.

0:26:240:26:27

I'll put the golden girls into the holes very quietly.

0:26:300:26:34

They'll chase the rabbits out into the nets that I set.

0:26:340:26:38

Stand back.

0:26:380:26:41

How long do we wait?

0:26:410:26:43

Until all the ferrets are out of the hole.

0:26:430:26:45

They'll work the rabbits.

0:26:450:26:46

SQUEAKING

0:26:460:26:48

That's another one.

0:26:560:26:58

There's one there!

0:26:580:26:59

That worked quite well. Two rabbits.

0:27:050:27:08

Can you pick the ferrets up now, guys, please.

0:27:080:27:12

Johnny, did you kill these instantly?

0:27:120:27:15

Yes, the first thing I do is break the neck.

0:27:150:27:18

That relieves any stress upon the animal.

0:27:180:27:20

-They just go quickly. Very quickly.

-It's a proper, old, rural craft.

0:27:200:27:26

Whilst the action was happening over there another rabbit's bolted into this net here.

0:27:260:27:30

Eventually they'll just kick their way out and he's run off to feed another day.

0:27:300:27:35

I really think we're getting a sense of this county's heritage.

0:27:350:27:39

So, we'll use a saddle of rabbit wrapped in spinach

0:27:390:27:43

and local pancetta with a duxelle of mushrooms.

0:27:430:27:46

We'll complete this dish with another taste of Suffolk's history.

0:27:460:27:50

Flour, an ingredient that has been milled here the same way for centuries.

0:27:500:27:56

This is heaven, isn't it?

0:28:020:28:03

Beautiful. It's tranquillity all around.

0:28:030:28:07

That's one of the things people like when they come here.

0:28:070:28:10

It's just a lovely place to be.

0:28:100:28:12

David, tell us about Pakenham Mill?

0:28:120:28:14

The building here behind us is about 200 years old,

0:28:140:28:18

but there has been a mill on the site for nearly 1000 years.

0:28:180:28:23

We have a windmill which you can see at the top of the pond and it's the only village

0:28:230:28:27

in England still with a working windmill and a working watermill.

0:28:270:28:31

Fabulous.

0:28:310:28:33

-I bet you've got a lovely mill pond.

-We have indeed.

0:28:330:28:36

Its stores all the water that drives the huge 16 ft high water wheel.

0:28:360:28:40

We'd love to see that. Can we have a look?

0:28:400:28:42

-Wow!

-That's the same wheel that has been here for more than 100 years.

0:28:460:28:51

Made in Bury St Edmunds, you can see the name on it.

0:28:510:28:56

You don't need a fast-flowing river to push this great wheel round.

0:28:560:29:00

All you need is the water filling those buckets on the one side of the wheel and it'll turn.

0:29:000:29:07

It holds about half to three-quarters of a tonne weight of water.

0:29:070:29:11

That drives a heavy millstone.

0:29:110:29:13

Here we are, this is where it all happens.

0:29:160:29:18

Fantastic! The building comes alive. It's just amazing.

0:29:180:29:23

-The whole building vibrates.

-It's got a heart, hasn't it?

0:29:230:29:26

Just like that, boom-boom, boom-boom, boom-boom. Lovely.

0:29:260:29:29

The wheat comes down the chute, fills up the hopper

0:29:290:29:33

and then you can see it's coming from the bottom of the hopper

0:29:330:29:36

in a steady stream down there and into the eye of the stone.

0:29:360:29:40

Eye of the stone!

0:29:400:29:42

The wheat goes in there, it's ground between the two millstones and you can see there's a block sweeping

0:29:420:29:50

the flour around and it goes down another chute down to the floor below

0:29:500:29:55

and straight into the sacks.

0:29:550:29:57

Let me introduce you to Roger.

0:29:570:29:59

He's been milling here for longer than anyone can remember.

0:29:590:30:02

Roger, how do you assess the quality of that?

0:30:020:30:06

-You get a handful of it, squeeze it and see how it stays.

-It stays.

0:30:060:30:10

-It's lovely.

-This is wholemeal.

0:30:100:30:15

Nothing taken out.

0:30:150:30:17

It doesn't get much more whole than this, does it?

0:30:170:30:20

Our wheat goes up and the flour comes down.

0:30:200:30:24

We don't do anything to it.

0:30:240:30:25

Perfect. David, have you got an oven?

0:30:250:30:29

We've got a very special oven.

0:30:290:30:32

David, how long ago did you light that fire in the oven?

0:30:320:30:35

6 o'clock this morning.

0:30:350:30:38

What a very nice man you are, sir.

0:30:380:30:40

Why do I feel this'll be the best bread we've ever tasted?

0:30:400:30:43

Here is the bread. Thank you.

0:30:430:30:46

Two lovely loaves.

0:30:460:30:49

In it goes on the peel.

0:30:490:30:52

We'll bring it out in about 25 minutes' time.

0:30:520:30:55

Shut the door.

0:30:550:30:56

Here it is.

0:30:560:30:59

Look at that. That means you've got good gluten in your flour

0:30:590:31:02

because there's a nice bounce on your bread.

0:31:020:31:04

-Smell the wheat.

-It's like a taste of paradise.

0:31:040:31:07

I'm going to have a bit, too, thank you. Just taste that.

0:31:070:31:11

You don't need any butter and jam on it.

0:31:110:31:14

-The flavour of that...

-Good bread.

0:31:140:31:16

Straight from the wheat.

0:31:160:31:17

I think that's the acid test.

0:31:170:31:19

It's all very nice and it's wonderful, but so is the bread.

0:31:190:31:23

Right, in competition with your masterpiece we've gone traditional.

0:31:250:31:29

It's a stuffed saddle of rabbit with a duxelle of mushrooms,

0:31:290:31:32

served with braised red cabbage with cranberry and cheese oatcakes and some game chips.

0:31:320:31:38

It'll be up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents the true flavours of Suffolk.

0:31:380:31:43

Step one, cabbage takes an hour and a half.

0:31:430:31:47

HE LAUGHS

0:31:470:31:49

The obligatory big knob of butter.

0:31:490:31:52

Savoy cabbage.

0:31:520:31:54

One finely sliced red onion.

0:31:540:31:57

It's not all going to fit in this pan.

0:31:570:31:59

To this you grate one Bramley apple and four beetroots.

0:31:590:32:04

-Ever thought about getting a bigger kitchen?

-Not till today.

0:32:040:32:07

-Local beetroot, these?

-Yes.

0:32:070:32:10

Oh! Take those stupid gloves off.

0:32:100:32:14

Now we grate the beetroot.

0:32:140:32:15

This is raw beetroot. 3 tablespoons of local red wine vinegar.

0:32:150:32:21

Two, three. And also three tablespoons of not local muscovado sugar.

0:32:210:32:27

Why do I always get...?

0:32:300:32:33

Mr Smiley!

0:32:330:32:35

-Give us a look at that.

-I'll never get that off.

0:32:380:32:40

That's about three.

0:32:400:32:43

Give it a quick mix up.

0:32:430:32:44

It looks like an alarming amount.

0:32:440:32:46

This will drop. The cinnamon stick goes on to there.

0:32:460:32:48

Stick that on a fire for an hour and a half and hey presto, job done.

0:32:480:32:54

Clean me head up, I feel stupid.

0:32:560:32:57

-Lovely, that.

-There we are, three rabbits.

0:32:590:33:02

It's funny with rabbits, the hind quarters, the haunch, it cooks differently to the saddle.

0:33:020:33:09

-Yes.

-Can be a tough brute, but we use both in this, to waste nowt.

0:33:090:33:12

First off, you take that off there.

0:33:120:33:15

-And these are local?

-Yes, absolutely.

0:33:150:33:17

We went out ferreting. These aren't the ones that we caught,

0:33:170:33:21

because the ones that we caught were hung for a couple of days.

0:33:210:33:24

Look at this, this is how easy that loin comes off.

0:33:240:33:27

I'm not cutting it, I'm just pulling it off.

0:33:270:33:30

How lovely is that?

0:33:300:33:32

Take a pan...

0:33:320:33:33

..some olive oil.

0:33:340:33:36

First of all we want to brown that in some olive oil.

0:33:360:33:39

Give that a bit of colour.

0:33:390:33:42

It's not generally available in supermarkets. Ask your butcher to get you a rabbit.

0:33:420:33:46

And a rabbit costs about £3 each.

0:33:460:33:49

The rabbit's taken some colour, so into that pan I'm going to add

0:33:510:33:55

the vegetables, a shallot, a carrot and a couple of sticks of celery.

0:33:550:33:59

-He says that.

-Very well.

0:33:590:34:02

Just toss that until you're happy.

0:34:020:34:04

To this about 250 mls of good chicken stock,

0:34:040:34:08

250 millilitres of white wine

0:34:080:34:12

and a couple of bay leaves.

0:34:120:34:15

Just bring that to the boil and let that simmer until the rabbit's tender.

0:34:150:34:20

That's what's getting stuffed. One part of the stuffing is simmering

0:34:210:34:25

and the other part of the stuffing is a duxelle of mushrooms.

0:34:250:34:29

-Butter.

-Thank you, sir.

0:34:290:34:31

First step, soften the shallots.

0:34:310:34:34

About three shallots.

0:34:340:34:36

Just chop these roughly because they are going to go in a blender

0:34:360:34:40

but we have to wait for those to go translucent before we put these in.

0:34:400:34:44

I think we're all right, mate.

0:34:440:34:46

The mushrooms go in there.

0:34:460:34:48

Cover those up and just cook them slowly for about five minutes with a lid on.

0:34:480:34:53

Meanwhile the haunches of rabbit

0:34:530:34:55

will take a couple of hours to simmer down.

0:34:550:34:58

So after two hours, that rabbit'll look like that.

0:34:580:35:03

I just need to pick the meat off that now

0:35:030:35:05

and that will go in as part of the component parts of the stuffing.

0:35:050:35:08

It's falling off the bones. Warm it up, just to get that more liquid

0:35:080:35:12

and then we can strain that and that will be the basis of the gravy.

0:35:120:35:16

These are porcini mushrooms. They've been soaking about 20 minutes.

0:35:160:35:20

We'll need some of this juice to put into the duxelle.

0:35:200:35:23

I'm going to take some of these big bones out and then sieve

0:35:230:35:26

this through, reduce it and that's going to be our gravy.

0:35:260:35:29

Look at that, it's got a lovely glaze on it.

0:35:290:35:31

Now, everybody, that's the reduced stock to jelly and in the kitchen

0:35:310:35:36

-like this it's gold, isn't it?

-It is.

0:35:360:35:37

Roasted beef bones in a big stockpot simmered for 12 hours and then just the bones taken out and reduced.

0:35:370:35:43

I'm just going to put a nice spoonful of that into the juices that have come from the rabbit.

0:35:430:35:48

All you need to do is warm that through, put some butter in and that's your gravy.

0:35:480:35:52

No thickener, nothing.

0:35:520:35:54

Right, the duxelle. First some porcinis.

0:35:540:35:57

I've left the juice there for you, mate.

0:35:570:35:59

That's absolute concentrate liquor of mushrooms.

0:35:590:36:03

I'm just going to cover the bottom of the pan with that and then just give it a stir

0:36:030:36:07

and to that about one tablespoon of double cream.

0:36:070:36:11

Leave the top off at this point. We want that quite dry.

0:36:110:36:16

-Keep a close eye on it so you don't burn it.

-For the oatcakes

0:36:160:36:19

we've taken the mill flour from the thousand-year old mill.

0:36:190:36:22

There's heritage in this bag. Pinhead oatmeal.

0:36:220:36:25

Pakenham wholemeal flour and a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda.

0:36:250:36:31

To that some salt, about half a teaspoon.

0:36:310:36:34

-And the reason for the cranberries?

-Cranberries and rabbit go together.

0:36:340:36:38

And some grated cheese, parmesan would be good.

0:36:380:36:41

This is a good Suffolk cheese, a Cheddar-like creature.

0:36:410:36:44

-Beautiful.

-That is good, man.

0:36:440:36:46

Oatcakes need about... This could be messy!

0:36:460:36:50

Two tablespoons of boiling lard.

0:36:500:36:53

Get your hands in and a mix it.

0:36:530:36:55

It'll be all right, it's not that hot.

0:36:550:36:58

Make that into a dough.

0:37:000:37:01

HE SHRIEKS

0:37:010:37:04

No, I'm joking.

0:37:040:37:05

With about eight tablespoons of boiling water.

0:37:050:37:09

One, two, three, four.

0:37:090:37:12

Stop there and give it a go. We're very nearly there. One more.

0:37:120:37:16

That's about eight tablespoons.

0:37:160:37:19

That's it, absolutely on the money.

0:37:190:37:21

It would be nice if we could chill this for a bit.

0:37:210:37:24

A baking tray, a piece of parchment and because I'm paranoid, I'm going to put a bit of oil on there.

0:37:240:37:30

Take half of it,

0:37:300:37:32

-I think we need about two per portion. Three?

-Let's go for three.

0:37:320:37:36

Cranberry and cheese oatcakes for "rabbitisation"

0:37:360:37:42

across the nation. That will do.

0:37:420:37:44

Put these into a preheated oven about 180 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes until they're golden.

0:37:440:37:49

Next step, the stuffing.

0:37:490:37:52

The mushrooms have gone in there, the rabbit's in there,

0:37:520:37:56

now we have the white of an egg, parsley.

0:37:560:37:59

And an egg white. Fire.

0:37:590:38:03

WHIRRING

0:38:030:38:05

That's how we want it.

0:38:070:38:09

It's like a rough cut, kind of stuffing.

0:38:090:38:11

You just need to season that now and that's the stuffing done.

0:38:110:38:17

The oatcakes are done. Excellent, well done.

0:38:170:38:19

-Perfect, look. Just colouring up on that side.

-Lovely.

0:38:190:38:23

Set those aside to cool nicely. Let's do the saddles.

0:38:230:38:28

We take the pancetta and make a blanket. And repeat.

0:38:280:38:32

On to this I want some baby spinach leaves.

0:38:320:38:37

These wonderfully trimmed saddle of rabbit a twist of pepper.

0:38:370:38:41

I know you don't like pepper, but we do.

0:38:410:38:44

And a little bit of sea salt.

0:38:440:38:46

What we do now is take two saddles and place one there, another there

0:38:460:38:51

and take some stuffing.

0:38:510:38:53

You want about the same proportions, like so.

0:38:530:38:58

-Go on.

-Do it quite tightly.

0:38:580:39:03

That's a healthy portion for one.

0:39:040:39:06

I just transfer those on to a lightly oiled roasting dish.

0:39:060:39:12

Do it so that it's the bacon seam side down.

0:39:120:39:16

Let's put those into a preheated oven, about 185 degrees,

0:39:160:39:19

I reckon for only about 10 minutes until they start to go golden.

0:39:190:39:23

The oatcakes are done, the rabbit's in the oven, all we need now is the game chips.

0:39:230:39:27

Cut that like that to get a nice straight end.

0:39:270:39:30

You put that like that.

0:39:300:39:32

The first one is sacrificial.

0:39:320:39:34

You see the grooves there, you turn it round and do it like that and out pops a holey crisp.

0:39:340:39:41

These are called game chips and we're going to have a stack of these on either side of the rabbit.

0:39:410:39:46

That's it. They're brilliant.

0:39:480:39:51

-I don't think I can handle your deep-fat frier.

-I'm on it.

0:39:510:39:54

Just keep moving them around.

0:39:540:39:56

That cabbage is just a lovely, sticky mass now.

0:39:560:40:00

-Game chips.

-Posh crisps, those.

0:40:020:40:05

Let them rest, put some of that juice into there.

0:40:050:40:09

I never waste nowt. Good lad.

0:40:090:40:12

I think we might have done a few too many portions.

0:40:120:40:16

Your living room used to be this colour.

0:40:180:40:21

-It did, yes.

-That's what you want, deconstructed rabbit.

0:40:210:40:26

That's juicy, mate.

0:40:280:40:29

-What do you think?

-That's it.

0:40:290:40:32

-Way away from the game chips.

-Mr Myers, headline that.

0:40:360:40:40

Stuffed saddle of rabbit with a duxelle of mushrooms served

0:40:400:40:43

with braised red cabbage, beetroot, baking apples, with cranberry and cheese oatcakes and some game chips.

0:40:430:40:50

He's not wrong.

0:40:500:40:52

The cabbage is lovely. The rabbit's lovely and moist. The jus is amazing.

0:40:570:41:02

it's got all the flavours and everything in there.

0:41:020:41:05

The game chips are cut perfectly.

0:41:050:41:07

-It really is a lovely dish. For me, personally, just too much veg to go with the rabbit.

-OK.

0:41:070:41:12

Little bit concerned now. If the TV doesn't work out, come here.

0:41:120:41:15

-Can I have a job?

-I'll take you up on that.

0:41:150:41:17

Thanks, Chris, great offer, but first we've got to see if our dish is good enough to beat you.

0:41:170:41:22

The diners here will taste both dishes, but without any idea of who cooked which.

0:41:220:41:28

-First up is Chris's duck platter with heart stew.

-I've not come across the heart stew before.

0:41:280:41:34

That was fantastic.

0:41:340:41:36

Restaurants tend to use the best bits and discard the others which have been cooked properly

0:41:360:41:40

as they are today. And much more delicious.

0:41:400:41:43

It's nice to see how out of one animal you can get such different textures and flavours.

0:41:430:41:47

The consomme, I didn't like it at all. It was like drinking liquid fat.

0:41:470:41:51

The consomme I actually enjoyed.

0:41:510:41:52

I loved the bitterness of the Orange.

0:41:520:41:54

I had to share it with three other people.

0:41:540:41:56

Can I have some more, please?

0:41:560:41:58

They loved it, now it's down to our pancetta-wrapped saddle of rabbit

0:41:580:42:03

with a duxelle of mushrooms and Suffolk oatcakes.

0:42:030:42:07

It looked good on the plate, there was enough volume there this time,

0:42:070:42:10

so it looked like a proper meal and I thought the flavour of the rabbit was very subtle, but very good.

0:42:100:42:15

It was quite bland, so it needed that pancetta to go with it.

0:42:150:42:18

-The oatcakes were like eating cardboard, really.

-The red cabbage overpowered the dish.

0:42:180:42:23

It probably would have been very nice but with a smaller quantity.

0:42:230:42:27

Probably too much going on and it took away from the rabbit itself.

0:42:270:42:30

-Hello.

-APPLAUSE

0:42:300:42:34

Firstly, ladies and gentlemen, thank you for having us in your wonderful county.

0:42:340:42:39

We've met somebody who we hope will be a good friend for a long time.

0:42:390:42:42

-He's a good man. Great in the kitchen.

-Aye.

0:42:420:42:45

So, could we have a show of hands for the duck?

0:42:450:42:50

That's eight for the duck.

0:42:520:42:55

And for the rabbit?

0:42:550:42:58

OK, the duck was Chris's.

0:42:580:43:01

You can come with us and get drunk, the rest of you have just blown it!

0:43:050:43:08

Well done and we're not speaking to you.

0:43:110:43:13

I'm not surprised. Fantastic, a fabulous dish

0:43:150:43:18

and very, very well done.

0:43:180:43:20

It's fair to say the best man won.

0:43:210:43:23

Chris's dish was incredible.

0:43:230:43:24

He really is a deserving winner.

0:43:240:43:26

After all, he's young Chef of the Year.

0:43:260:43:28

We've certainly learnt a lot in Suffolk.

0:43:280:43:30

This really is a county still rich in food traditions.

0:43:300:43:34

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0:43:340:43:38

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0:43:380:43:40

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