Oxfordshire The Hairy Bikers' Food Tour of Britain


Oxfordshire

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Transcript


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We're on the road to find regional recipes to rev up your appetite.

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-We're riding county to county to discover, cook and enjoy the best of British.

-Come on!

-Wahey!

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We're here to define the true taste of Oxfordshire.

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-I'm in it!

-# South of the border

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-# Down Oxfordshire way... #

-Guess where we are?

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-Oxfordshire.

-One of the old English counties, you know?

-I don't know what we'll find.

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-Students.

-It was a county of great prosperity, great education...

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It's a a blank canvas. I'm looking forward to filling in the dots and dashes.

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-I am. Apart from that, I'm hungry.

-Shall we go?

-We shall. You look like a fly with those glasses on!

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On our quest to define the true flavours of Oxfordshire, we head to a farm that is using

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an army of local producers to take on the supermarkets.

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That's real, proper home baking.

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We unearth a forgotten Oxfordshire recipe

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that we hope will prove a winner with the people of Henley-on-Thames.

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Rock star Alex James reveals the secrets of making your own cheese.

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And representing Oxfordshire in a cook-off is Emily Watkins.

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Will we be able to beat her using the county's finest ingredients?

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First stop, Oxford.

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-These cobbles are a killer!

-Whoa!

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Oxford, city of culture, intellect and dreaming spires.

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Never mind dreaming spires, dude, I know what I'm dreaming about - lunch. I'm starving.

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Lunch will have to wait. We're going to the Covered Market.

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They sell everything from cheese to chicory.

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Surely this is the place to discover the real flavour of Oxfordshire?

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What represents Oxfordshire for you?

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-Um...

-My favourite one is pheasant and venison casserole.

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-Sounds good to me, dude!

-Don't be too hasty. We need something that's unique to Oxfordshire.

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-There's plenty of inspiration here, though, isn't there?

-Look at those chestnuts. So plump and lovely.

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-This is a fine collection of cheese as I've ever seen in my life!

-This is the local cheese, Oxford Isis.

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-Right.

-But this is washed with honey mead, so it's very special.

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Everyone's skint at the moment. I'm making a stew tonight.

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-You're lucky, having a market like this, aren't you?

-Not half.

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All these great ingredients, yet no-one's come up with a traditional Oxfordshire dish.

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This is desperate. We need advice.

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We've got a meeting with this lady called Helen.

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-She's an expert on Oxfordshire food.

-Where did you get her from?

-The Internet.

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-Pleased to meet you, Helen. I'm Si.

-Nice to meet you.

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-It's not every day you get a date like this, over the internet, is it?

-THEY LAUGH

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-So, would you say Oxfordshire is a really fine larder?

-It's a fabulous larder.

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We've got a lot of mutton, we've got some brilliant pick-your-owns.

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Strawberry time in Oxfordshire is magic.

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I'll bet it is. What dish represents Oxford really well?

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-We haven't got one big dish that says, "This is Oxford," as such.

-Right.

-We've got the Banbury cake.

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That goes back to the days of the Crusades.

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-Mmm! Spicy.

-It's kind of like a sweet mincemeat.

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Can I get you really excited?

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-Yeah, go on.

-OK. Oxford sausage?

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Now you're talking! Now, that's a girl!

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How to make an Oxford sausage.

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An 18th-century manuscript cookery book.

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-This is like the Holy Grail.

-Hey, it's great, this!

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You take equal amounts of pork good veal, and then an equal amount of suet.

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-Sage, thyme, then things like nutmeg.

-This is good.

-It is good, isn't it?

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-And you can put lemon and orange in, too.

-Excellent.

-Is that OK?

-You're just the lass! Perfect.

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We're on the trail of the Oxford sausage. We need to find out more.

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It's a proper old butcher's. If anyone can tell us about the Oxford sausage, these people can.

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Hello. I'm Si. Hi, nice to see you.

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-I'm Dave.

-Nice to meet you, hello.

-Could you tell us anything about the Oxford sausage?

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It's an old traditional recipe.

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You have minced pork, and you can also use minced lamb, minced veal or minced turkey.

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-Right.

-Do you do it here?

-No, we don't any more, unfortunately.

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-There's been no call for it, so we stopped doing it.

-That's what we'll cook.

-Yes.

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If we're successful, will you take it on?

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-No problem.

-That's a deal.

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So we're going to bring back the Oxford sausage to the people of Oxfordshire.

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BIRDS CHEEP

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We'll serve it with a full English breakfast.

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For the ingredients, we are heading to Foxbury farm shop that stocks only local produce.

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We're going to meet Colin Dawes, a farmer who's turned his back on supermarkets and instead

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promotes the community of cottage industries right on his doorstep.

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-Morning, Colin.

-Morning!

-Morning, Col. How are you, sir?

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-I'm good.

-Hey, you've got a great place, man.

-Fantastic.

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A great place. How did it start?

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2001, when the foot and mouth came through, the place...

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We had sheep everywhere and we just couldn't sell them.

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-When we could sell them, we were getting something like £25 for a lamb, it was ridiculous.

-What?!

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So we ventured into the local farmers' market, and did that for the first time.

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It was unbelievable. People actually wanted to get stuff fresh from the farm.

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The nice thing about Foxbury is it's not just your stuff you're selling.

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You've got little micro local producers. So Foxbury becomes part of the community.

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We've got two or three other producers delivering today.

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-We've got a honey man, Ian, dropping stuff off, and he's got all his bees on the farm.

-Hello!

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-Very nice to meet you, sir.

-And you.

-I've bought many things out of the back of a car, but never honey!

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-Would you like a taste?

-Oh, absolutely. Absolutely.

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-Oh, look at that.

-It all comes from within about a five-mile radius.

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-Oh, that's one of the nicest things I've ever tasted.

-Oh, that's fantastic.

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So full of flavours.

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So, Ian, how does the countryside here facilitate such fantastic honey?

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Well, the farmers round here plant oilseed rape, field beans, you've get a lot of clover,

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and that taste of those flowers adds to the taste of the honey.

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That would send Winnie the Pooh into a frenzy, that!

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-No wonder he got stuck in that hole!

-I'm gonna have trouble getting out of this car!

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-This is Penny.

-Penny, how are you, darling? All right?

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She's been making cakes for us for years. We'll leave her to you.

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-Wow, look at these.

-How many cakes a week will you produce, Penny?

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22 cakes and six sponges this week.

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-That's quite a lot.

-It is.

-Do they all go? Do they all sell?

-Yeah, usually.

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We know with talking to Colin that he had a vision which has changed the community.

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Has Colin's business changed your life?

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Yeah, it's made my life, you know?

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-I've not got a husband or anything, and I live to cook.

-That's real, proper home baking.

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Penny, you're not frugal with your fillings, are you?

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No. Don't stint on anything.

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-Yes!

-If you're gonna make something, make it good.

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So, for the Oxford sausage and breakfast...

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Flour, Rollright Plain.

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-Eggs, we need eggs.

-Yes, we do.

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-Farm shops are the future.

-They are.

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One for crumbs and one for toast.

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Single cream.

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-What for?

-I've no idea, but we always buy cream!

-THEY LAUGH

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-Morning!

-Morning, lads!

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How are you? You all right?

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You got any Oxford sausages?

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No, but I've got the ingredients. Minced lamb and minced pork.

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-Can I have a kilo of each, please?

-Certainly.

-Morning, gentlemen. You all right?

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-Do you butcher your own meat here?

-Yeah, we do beef, lamb and pork.

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They come in as full carcasses, and then we butcher them all up.

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-Brilliant.

-So how far's the slaughter house from where you are, then?

-Five miles.

-Brilliant.

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-The stress levels are zilch.

-Zero. Have you got any suet?

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-Have that on us.

-What a nice man! Thank you very much.

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-One tin of goose fat.

-Oh!

-Thank you very much.

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All we need now is a few mushrooms, tomatoes, lemons and some herbs.

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-Mushrooms.

-Yeah. These are a nice size.

-Tomatoes!

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-Tomatoes!

-Oh, look at these!

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One of the nice things is that the herbs are in pots outside, and you just take what you want for nothing.

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-Ooh, smell that!

-They can't, they're on the telly!

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I know, but I've teased them!

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Let's go and cook sausages!

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Time to get cooking and serve up the quintessential Oxfordshire dish -

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a skinless, tangy, spicy banger known as the Oxford sausage.

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And the people of Henley-on-Thames look hungry. Let's get going.

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-Hey-hey! Now, has anybody here heard about the Oxford sausage?

-Anybody?

-ALL: No.

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-It's your heritage!

-People think English food's bland. It really isn't.

-No.

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-This sausage has lots in it. It's got suet to make it fat and juicy.

-Lemon zest, a main thing.

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-It's a tangy sausage.

-Oh, it's lovely!

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But we can't just serve a plate of sausages, so we're gonna do a big cooked breakfast.

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And it can be quite rustic, this sausage.

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We're doing it with pork and lamb mince.

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I always get these jobs, me!

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-Pork mince...

-That'll do!

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-That'll do!

-No... All right, that'll do!

-That'll do!

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-We don't want it too bready.

-No.

-Look. Good Gloucester Old Spot.

-LAUGHTER

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Oh, man! How come I end up like this and you end up like that?!

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It's a local pig, it's local lamb, it's local suet, it's local breadcrumbs.

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-It's local breadcrumbs, all right! They're halfway up the street!

-Yes. This is lamb mince.

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Now, proper shredded suet.

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Bung an egg in.

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The zest of a lemon.

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Your Oxford sausage has a lot of sage in.

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This is wonderful, purple sage. Ooh!

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Smell it. It's good, isn't it? We picked that this morning.

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Dave, don't give them any more. He'll be rolling it and smoking it next.

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They're students around here. They all do that sort of thing!

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What have we got there?

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Season liberally. Now, obviously if I chopped this up

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it'd be like a stick in the sausage, so you need to just

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-strip these little leaves. That's where the flavour is.

-Right, I'm gonna put my hand in.

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-It's a rural community, what's the matter with you all?!

-LAUGHTER

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So, what we need...

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We need to make sure that all of

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those ingredients are mixed really well together to form said sausage.

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This is another traditional ingredient in the Oxfordshire sausage. It's nutmeg.

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You can use it ground, but freshly ground's better.

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By the way, a nutmeg will last for ten years.

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And also...

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-It's working!

-Go on.

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It is, all over the back of my hand!

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-Do you think that's enough?

-I think that'll do, dude.

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It'll be all right.

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-METALLIC CLICK

-Oh, no! My ring pull's gone!

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Story of your life, that, dude!

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This never happens on telly, does it, except to us?

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I've got it, dude, I'll do it in a minute. Hold on.

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CHEERING, APPLAUSE

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A top motorcycling tip - you can always waterproof your biking jacket with goose fat!

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-It's always traditional.

-I'm not coming again!

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If you were swimming the Channel, you'd be brilliant.

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That's all right, that's gone. You'd never notice.

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We're doing our bangers in goose fat

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cos goose fat'll make them super tasty, as it does roast potatoes and everything.

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Put some flour on the table.

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I washed my hands first. I have.

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Take a handful of this zesty sausagey goodness.

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Now, there's no skins involved.

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-Shall we have whoppers?

-ALL: Yeah!

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-Who's cooking them?!

-LAUGHTER

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You greedy lot!

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-You're gonna love this.

-You are.

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Whether you like it or not, you're gonna say that you love it!

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They look all right, don't they?

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-Now, we can't just serve a plate of these, can we?

-Oh, no.

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We need fine Oxfordshire back bacon.

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-Oh, yes.

-Fine Oxfordshire tomatoes.

-Oh-ho-ho!

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-Field mushrooms...

-Yes.

-..fried in butter and oil.

-Oh!

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-That was your cue. "Oh!"

-ALL: Oh!

-That's it. Well done.

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-Ah-one, two, three, four...

-ALL: Oh!

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Dude, I've got to tell you, they might have a bit of money, but they're slow!

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Good Oxfordshire bacon.

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Look at this! The Oxfordshire sausages are now going golden.

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Bobby dazzlers!

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I've got some nice field mushrooms. I'll do those in some butter, olive oil, salt and pepper.

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Field mushrooms are great because the butter and the oil,

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give that lovely black gravy that soaks into your bread.

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Just with one egg, they're staying together really well.

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That's a lot of bacon for one breakfast.

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It is, but there's a lot of mouths to feed, and some of them

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have got a look in their eye that's starting to worry me!

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So, whack this in the grill.

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The Oxfordshire sausages are doing well, the mushrooms are bubbling down to a lovely caramelised-ness.

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I'm dying to taste one.

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-I must admit, I have never tasted an Oxfordshire sausage.

-No?!

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-Bacon!

-Bacon!

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It's all about the timing, you know!

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-Look at that.

-Look at that, done.

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Hands are clean.

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The star turn...

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It's all framing the Oxfordshire sausage in all its glory.

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-Davey, are you ready for the bacon?!

-Oh, we've got bacon as well!

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Now this is a proper breakfast. Yes.

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We'll let that fat dribble on the mushrooms in a provocative, Michelin star-like fashion.

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Now, what have we got to do? We have to prioritise the sausage.

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The sausage bit...

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-A massive bit.

-What do you think?

-That's really nice.

-Nice, isn't it?

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-Absolutely beautiful.

-Good old Oxfordshire.

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-Delicious. Does it have some lemon in it?

-It does.

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It's good without the skin, and the lamb and the nutmeg really come through. Good flavour.

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-It's a real tang on the back of the throat.

-Brilliant!

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Give it a dip in the Oxfordshire sauce.

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Oh, that's delicious.

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-You can taste the nutmeg.

-Oh, look at that.

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-Nutmeg, the lemon zest...

-You can get the zest as well.

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Ask your butcher to start to stock the old Oxfordshire s-s-saus... That's easy for you to say!

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It's really nice and light and the lemon brings out a good taste.

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You better eat it. I'm just about to nick it!

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Our Oxford sausage seems to have gone down a treat with the people of Henley.

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But our next challenge is just around the corner.

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As always, we're taking on one of the county's top chefs in their restaurant,

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using local ingredients to see who can best define the taste of the region.

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It will be up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents the true flavours of Oxfordshire.

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Our opponent today is...

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..Emily Watkins, owner and head chef

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-of The Kingham Plough.

-Emily sources virtually all her produce from within ten miles of the pub

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and trained under the watchful eye of Heston Blumenthal.

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I started cooking professionally after university.

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Italian cookery I've always been a big fan of, and so I got on a plane and went to Florence.

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I had no knowledge of Italian, no CV. After two years of being in Italy, I started to get itchy feet

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and my head chef said, "Where would you really like to go?" I said, "The Fat Duck".

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Being at the Fat Duck was inspiring.

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Heston was a very exciting person to work with, so open to a different concept of cooking.

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He introduced me to sous-vide temperature bath cooking, which I'm implementing here as well,

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but when you look into the science of cookery, all you see is the pluses for it.

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Local produce is exactly what we are, it's everything.

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We've a couple of guys who go out rabbiting for us, we get vegetables from round the corner, from Mr Cox.

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The flavours speak for themselves.

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What's your dish? What's the title?

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The title? Locally-shot Partridge With Violet Potatoes.

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-"Violent potatoes"?!

-Violet potatoes.

-I thought you meant angry potatoes.

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-Purple spuds!

-Purple spuds, dude.

-This is partridge.

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It's the beginning of the shooting season, so they're at their best, they're full of flavour.

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-These were shot by my husband on Saturday and they've been hanging now for 24 hours.

-Just right.

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The longer you hang it, the more intense the flavour will be.

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The only reason I'm soaking it off is to stop the feathers flying everywhere.

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I'll start off by plucking the partridges. Try and keep the skin intact

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-but it's not the end of the world if it doesn't.

-That's a beautiful bird.

-Yeah!

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Now I want to get it ready to cook.

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I'm taking off this part - the supreme.

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The supreme is the breast with the wing attached to it.

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I'm just going to pull down on the skin to keep the pressure on it, or it will slide all over the place.

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I'm making a line across the back of the breast bone,

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just like you would if you were doing a chicken or anything else.

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Taking the wing with it.

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The problem about game is that you can't tell where the guns have shot it and so sometimes you will find

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that you've lost the wing or some part of it. There's nothing you can do about that.

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You've got to accept it for what it is. Now you've got your breasts, bones and the legs.

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The legs, we're going to put into a bag with some goose fat.

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-Straight into the bag.

-There you are.

0:17:430:17:45

And just some herbs in there to flavour it. That'll be confit.

0:17:450:17:52

The breast, all those juices will stay inside. It will be really nice and juicy inside,

0:17:520:17:57

so we'll keep it together. There we go.

0:17:570:18:01

-Into the vac-pack bag.

-"Vac-pack bag"?

0:18:010:18:04

Vac-pack. Vacuum pack. Like you would if you were buying a pack of salami in a supermarket.

0:18:040:18:09

By removing the air it will make it sink to the bottom

0:18:090:18:12

and it will allow no water to enter it when we go into the temperature bath over here.

0:18:120:18:16

We're going to cook it really slowly so it's not affected by any outside flavours.

0:18:160:18:21

There's 100% partridge in there.

0:18:210:18:23

I've set the bath at 57 degrees.

0:18:230:18:25

Higher, it starts to dry out. Lower, it's too pink, it's too rare. It's not cooked properly.

0:18:250:18:31

-I'm going to vac-pack these now.

-All right then.

0:18:310:18:33

AIR HISSES

0:18:370:18:39

So the confit, I'll put into the bath at 64 degrees, and the supreme at 57 degrees.

0:18:500:18:55

-I've never been that specific in my life.

-No! I have it just in for a bit!

0:18:550:18:59

The bones I'll roast off with some extra herbs to make a sauce later.

0:18:590:19:03

A bit of oil on there.

0:19:030:19:06

We'll caramelise that, get the lovely, sweet flavours out.

0:19:060:19:09

In the oven, very traditionally.

0:19:090:19:13

OK.

0:19:130:19:15

Leave all that to do its thing.

0:19:150:19:17

Basically, the bath is set so there's no possible way it can overcook now.

0:19:170:19:21

Is that something you did with Heston?

0:19:210:19:23

Yeah, very much so. He was the one who opened my eyes to this type of cooking.

0:19:230:19:28

-Right.

-He doesn't sit there saying it's the only way to cook - he would never do that -

0:19:280:19:33

but he does say that there are huge benefits to cooking in this way.

0:19:330:19:37

The confit is cooked. I'll take it out and put it in a water bath, let it chill down straightaway.

0:19:370:19:42

Lots of ice in there. We can let that chill before picking it down to finish off the dish.

0:19:420:19:47

I'll prep up the chicken hearts.

0:19:470:19:49

I'm not taking off all the fat. There isn't a lot on them anyway.

0:19:490:19:53

I'm soaking them with a little bit of oil and some herbs to flavour them.

0:19:530:19:56

-Is that sage?

-Sage and thyme. Sorry, yeah.

0:19:560:20:00

-They'll be ready to go into a hot pan.

-A nice traditional flavour.

0:20:000:20:03

Violet potato dumplings. I'm going to cook them in their skins for two reasons -

0:20:030:20:08

one is to keep the nuttiness in there and one is to keep the purpleness.

0:20:080:20:11

-If you skin them, they bleed.

-They will bleed, yeah.

0:20:110:20:14

-Like beetroot.

-Exactly. They will take a lot of cooking.

0:20:140:20:17

-Those have been on for an hour and a half.

-An hour and a half?!

0:20:170:20:21

How long do they take to cook?

0:20:210:20:22

About two hours. They are actually cooked when they still feel a little bit hard.

0:20:220:20:27

So, the potatoes are cooked now. Peel them while they're still hot, let any last moisture evaporate.

0:20:270:20:34

Pass them through the ricer while they're hot.

0:20:340:20:36

Because Emily handles hot food all the time, she has hands like asbestos. Chef's hands.

0:20:360:20:42

Yes. They feel no pain.

0:20:420:20:43

Don't touch them, don't squish them.

0:20:430:20:45

You can see the steam coming off. That's the last bit of moisture.

0:20:450:20:48

-Doesn't it smell of beetroot as well?

-Beetroot, chestnuts...

-Yeah.

0:20:480:20:52

How mad's that?

0:20:520:20:55

Season that a little bit, and once they're cooled down, I add in an egg white per 750g of potato.

0:20:550:21:01

Nothing else. It's purely to help it bind together and it does very little to affect the flavour.

0:21:010:21:08

-Just the egg whites.

-You're very conscious of keeping the integrity of the flavours.

-Yep, 100%.

0:21:080:21:13

I just pureed these yesterday. Egg whites are already in there.

0:21:130:21:18

-It looks like Play-Doh!

-Luckily it doesn't smell like Play-Doh.

0:21:180:21:22

Roll it out into a sausage. Use a little bit of semolina.

0:21:220:21:26

Spread it out onto a tray, to put the dumplings onto.

0:21:260:21:30

They'll stick around the edge and help get a really nice crust around the edge.

0:21:300:21:34

-They're not being boiled like Italian gnocchi.

-How will you cook it?

-We'll saute them.

0:21:340:21:38

She's cut the dumplings on a cheffy angle, dude.

0:21:380:21:41

-It's still quite rustic, though.

-Yeah. Aye.

0:21:410:21:45

Then we'll give it a little gentle shake in that tray so that they

0:21:450:21:49

all get covered with a coating of the semolina.

0:21:490:21:53

We'll get those out of the way until later.

0:21:530:21:56

Basically everything's now prepared.

0:21:560:21:59

We'll start getting the whole dish together, so get the confit, which has chilled down.

0:21:590:22:03

You can see that because the fat has set.

0:22:030:22:06

-Look at that!

-So there are the legs.

0:22:060:22:08

-That looks fabulous.

-Can I have a bit?

-Sure you can.

0:22:080:22:12

-How's that?

-Beautiful.

0:22:140:22:17

I have to say I was sceptical and I genuinely was, I wasn't just saying it,

0:22:170:22:22

but actually it is the application of common sense.

0:22:220:22:26

It's tender and juicy...

0:22:260:22:28

You've got the intensity of flavour you get with a regular confit

0:22:280:22:32

-but you have the texture, so juicy and moist.

-Exactly.

0:22:320:22:34

So you've got a really hot pan here, a knob of butter

0:22:340:22:36

that will make it more nutty to help the nutty flavour of the dumplings.

0:22:360:22:41

-That's a very hot pan, isn't it?

-Very, very hot pan.

0:22:460:22:48

We want to get that albumen working, get them held together before we start messing around.

0:22:480:22:52

At the same time, we can get the chicken hearts in.

0:22:520:22:55

They want to be nice and caramelised.

0:22:550:22:59

Check the partridges, we're there. It's got to 57 degrees. There you go.

0:22:590:23:04

-Three boiled bags.

-I suppose it saves on washing up.

0:23:040:23:06

It does! Cutting it open.

0:23:060:23:10

-So you finish those off in a pan.

-Yeah. Get the partridge sauce on.

0:23:120:23:16

That's really thick jelly.

0:23:160:23:18

Where does that go now?

0:23:180:23:20

I'll just warm it through and bring it to the boil.

0:23:200:23:22

The partridge breast is ready, our pan's nice and hot.

0:23:220:23:25

The last thing is to get the clarified butter into our pans.

0:23:250:23:32

Partridge breast, it might spit so watch out.

0:23:320:23:37

Now we're gonna finish off the dish.

0:23:400:23:42

We've got the curly kale from a local grower.

0:23:420:23:44

We've got some butter into the water to make an emulsified butter

0:23:440:23:49

for the kale so we don't have to over-season it at the end.

0:23:490:23:51

I kind of quite like that technique of putting the butter in the water.

0:23:530:23:58

-I think we'll nick that.

-Yeah, we will. Say nowt, dude!

0:23:580:24:01

The sauce, we're gonna bring that...

0:24:010:24:05

-Wow!

-It's on the potatoes.

-Now I didn't expect that.

0:24:050:24:09

-They'll finish off cooking all the way through.

-Are you not worried they're gonna fall to pieces?

0:24:090:24:13

No. Now you've said that, they probably will!

0:24:130:24:16

Oh, look at the colour.

0:24:160:24:18

Put that there.

0:24:190:24:22

There are the partridges.

0:24:250:24:27

The last thing is add that bit of partridge confit

0:24:270:24:29

into the sauce, get that all the way through.

0:24:290:24:33

Then it's just plating it up.

0:24:330:24:35

That's such an intense green.

0:24:350:24:38

You want to make sure you've got a little bit of everything.

0:24:380:24:41

Dumpling, chicken hearts, confit, the whole lot.

0:24:410:24:44

And then all we need after that is a little bit of...

0:24:440:24:48

-Oh!

-Oh!

-Nah, I don't like it.

0:24:480:24:52

-It looks terrible(!)

-A little bit of the extra sauce.

0:24:520:24:55

I couldn't eat that. That's supercharged gravy, isn't it?

0:24:550:24:59

It is, yeah. There you go.

0:24:590:25:02

So...name that dish!

0:25:020:25:05

I'm representing Oxfordshire and this is the locally shot partridge

0:25:050:25:08

with violet potato dumplings and curly kale.

0:25:080:25:10

She's right, it's absolutely perfectly cooked through, but still juicy.

0:25:170:25:23

This kind of boil-in-the-bag techno thing really works.

0:25:230:25:26

We're going to have to watch ourselves and up the ante.

0:25:260:25:30

-This is Oxfordshire on a plate, isn't it?

-Yeah.

0:25:300:25:33

But it's the locals who will decide whose dish is best in a blind tasting coming up.

0:25:330:25:38

Emily's partridge with violet potato dumplings was a true taste of the county.

0:25:380:25:41

Everything was so local.

0:25:410:25:44

We're heading to the home of Blur guitarist Alex James

0:25:440:25:47

to get some great local flavours with a rock'n'roll twist.

0:25:470:25:49

These days he's more into cheese-making than hell-raising.

0:25:490:25:53

# Lives in a house, very big house in the country... #

0:25:530:25:57

Come in, this is my shed, this is HQ.

0:25:570:26:00

-What a shed! Oh, man!

-Because cheese is the tastiest thing

0:26:000:26:05

in the universe, it's been at the forefront of the gastro-revolution.

0:26:050:26:09

I always loved it. They used to throw it at me in Japan.

0:26:090:26:13

They used to throw beads at Damon and cheese at me because they knew

0:26:130:26:17

that I liked it but it comes in tins in Japan so...

0:26:170:26:21

It's kind of weird.

0:26:210:26:22

My wife and I bought this farm on our honeymoon

0:26:220:26:26

and we moved right next door to the country's leading cheese expert, Juliet Harbutt.

0:26:260:26:32

-Ah, yes!

-We decided we'd embark on a cheese-making extravaganza together.

0:26:320:26:37

You've drunk nearly all my milk in your coffees,

0:26:370:26:39

so we'll get some cheese out of that. Rennet, that's the special stuff.

0:26:390:26:43

-What is rennet?

-Yeah.

-Nobody knows!

0:26:430:26:48

Juliet. Hello, darling.

0:26:480:26:50

Look, they've drunk half the milk. We won't get much cheese out of that.

0:26:500:26:53

Just as well I have some spare.

0:26:530:26:56

I thought making cheese was difficult but it's not at all.

0:26:560:26:59

No. It's difficult to make a really good one.

0:26:590:27:02

It's easy to make a very simple one.

0:27:020:27:03

It might sound daft, but what is cheese?

0:27:030:27:06

Milk, which has curdled or gone sour, and the magic ingredient, rennet.

0:27:060:27:11

It's an enzyme found in the stomachs of calves.

0:27:110:27:15

Of any milk-fed animal.

0:27:150:27:18

It's often just a powder and you can buy these sachets so people can make cheese very easily.

0:27:180:27:22

The quantity of rennet you add is important if you're gonna age the cheese for a long time. That's a lot.

0:27:220:27:27

What temperature do we do that at?

0:27:270:27:29

65 but if you've got it just so you wouldn't want to put your finger in it, that'd be hot enough.

0:27:290:27:35

Stir it through.

0:27:350:27:36

What we've got here is proto-cheese.

0:27:360:27:39

Hey!

0:27:390:27:41

If the cheese miracle has worked...

0:27:410:27:43

-Look at that!

-Something's happened!

0:27:450:27:48

That's the curds and the whey's coming out there.

0:27:480:27:50

-That's almost getting cheese-like.

-You got quite a lot of cheese out of that milk.

0:27:500:27:56

Yeah, it's quite productive.

0:27:560:27:58

A gallon of milk, you get a pound of cheese.

0:27:580:28:01

-Yes!

-Yeah!

-Hey!

0:28:010:28:05

-It's not that tasty.

-It keeps its texture.

0:28:050:28:07

-That's not bad.

-It's not horrible, is it?

0:28:070:28:11

We all know how to make cheese now, I'm gonna do it with the kids!

0:28:110:28:15

If you eat enough cheese, after a while you become an expert.

0:28:160:28:19

We get through some cheese but we have...

0:28:190:28:22

Do you?

0:28:220:28:23

I'm holding in here, I'm on the telly!

0:28:230:28:25

People think cheese is about 70% fat content.

0:28:250:28:28

-Do you have any idea?

-No, I'd love to know.

0:28:280:28:32

Cheese like this, which is quite soft and runny, it's probably 26.

0:28:320:28:35

-Really?

-And the blue one is probably 30 and cheddar's only 34.

0:28:350:28:40

That's positively slimming.

0:28:400:28:43

This is a goat's cheese and won in its first year

0:28:430:28:45

at the British Cheese Awards best goat's cheese out of 111.

0:28:450:28:47

-That's beautiful.

-There's a cream and softness to it that's lovely.

0:28:470:28:52

So this is Blue Monday. How many square cheeses do you know?

0:28:520:28:55

So we have...boom!

0:28:550:28:59

Look at that!

0:28:590:29:01

That is absolutely fantastic.

0:29:010:29:04

Love the texture.

0:29:040:29:06

We wanted to have something more like the European ones, slightly more moist.

0:29:060:29:10

-Dolcelatte and Gorgonzola.

-Exactly.

-Cheese masters, how do you get the blue bits?

0:29:100:29:14

You sprinkle blue mould into the milk when you start and then once the cheese is made,

0:29:140:29:19

you have to pierce or poke the rind and by pushing the needles in, you let air into the cheese and...

0:29:190:29:24

-It feeds the bacteria.

-Yeah, and it goes blue.

0:29:240:29:26

-Nothing to do with copper wires whatsoever.

-No!

0:29:260:29:30

-Everybody thinks it's because of the wires.

-I did think it was copper wires, I must admit.

0:29:300:29:34

I think you could do really good dauphinoise with this cheese.

0:29:340:29:37

-I'd never thought of doing it with goat's cheese.

-Why don't we get some goat meat?

0:29:370:29:41

Yes! I tell you what we could do - a fantastic goat loin noisette.

0:29:410:29:46

-Can I come?

-Goat's cheese dauphinoise!

0:29:460:29:49

-Done, dude!

-Done!

0:29:490:29:51

Brilliant, we'll do noisettes of kid

0:29:520:29:55

and using Alex and Juliette's produce, we'll make a goat's cheese dauphinoise.

0:29:550:29:59

But we can't leave without giving Si the chance to relive his rock'n'roll years.

0:29:590:30:05

Brilliant! That was great.

0:30:220:30:25

-You rock!

-Thank you so much.

-You rock!

0:30:250:30:27

There's a fruit that's been grown in Oxfordshire for centuries - the quince.

0:30:310:30:37

A local retired couple are determined to put it back on the food map.

0:30:370:30:41

We think Elspeth and Colin Wainwright's quince products

0:30:410:30:44

-might be the perfect finishing touch for our goat dish.

-So that's a quince!

0:30:440:30:49

I've got to admit, it's a new one on me in its raw state.

0:30:490:30:52

It looks like an odd hybrid between a pear and a lemon...

0:30:520:30:55

-A turnip!

-Tough going.

0:30:550:30:57

This one likes the Oxfordshire soil.

0:30:570:31:01

In Tudor times they were regarded as an aphrodisiac.

0:31:010:31:05

Tudor Viagra!

0:31:050:31:07

We have heard of people eating it raw occasionally, but I certainly wouldn't.

0:31:080:31:12

It's very bitter, very hard.

0:31:120:31:14

-Here goes...

-It really needs cooking for about two hours.

0:31:140:31:17

It's really rather sharp.

0:31:200:31:23

What do you cook them in, Elspeth?

0:31:230:31:25

-Just water.

-So they change colour?

0:31:250:31:27

-Yes.

-That's the quince colour we know.

-Ah, yes!

0:31:270:31:30

-You've got this nut and rose colour coming now.

-You don't skin it?

-No, you don't have to.

0:31:300:31:34

In fact, a lot of the pectin is just under the skin

0:31:340:31:36

so we don't add any setting agent to our jellies.

0:31:360:31:40

We don't add pectin. Grandma didn't.

0:31:400:31:43

She's very strong, it's quite heavy.

0:31:430:31:45

I feel like something from Lord of the Rings.

0:31:450:31:47

Cor! Did you build this yourself?

0:31:500:31:52

-We did. It's very Heath Robinson, isn't it?

-It works.

0:31:520:31:56

That's it. Do we stand like this now, Elspeth?

0:32:000:32:03

For 24 hours, yes!

0:32:030:32:05

There's no pressure on that. You just leave it as it is.

0:32:050:32:09

-Exactly, yes.

-What a great process.

0:32:090:32:11

This is what we call the mash. This has gone through a sieve.

0:32:110:32:14

So you add sugar and lemon juice to this.

0:32:140:32:18

And you stand, sometimes up to an hour and a half, stirring it.

0:32:180:32:21

Eventually you have quince fruit cheese.

0:32:210:32:23

You get two products from the quince, you've got no waste.

0:32:230:32:26

Nobody can quite explain it.

0:32:260:32:28

If you do make it in too large amounts, you lose something.

0:32:280:32:32

Do you know what you lose? The soul.

0:32:320:32:34

-You lose the soul of it.

-You could well be right.

0:32:340:32:36

And this is the quince cheese.

0:32:360:32:38

Imagine that with your favourite cheese or meat.

0:32:380:32:40

-So rich, isn't it?

-That's the jelly.

0:32:400:32:44

-Would you like to have a taste?

-I'd love some.

0:32:440:32:46

Seeing as we're here...

0:32:460:32:48

It's just disappearing. It's as if it's going onto your

0:32:510:32:54

tongue, it's evaporating, and when it goes it's leaving this wonderful light fruit footprint in your mouth.

0:32:540:33:00

Can we ask your advice? We were going to do some goat.

0:33:000:33:03

Going to use the jelly to make a glaze.

0:33:030:33:06

Is there anything in the quince cheeses you'd recommend that would go with goat?

0:33:060:33:09

The outstanding one would be with the quince fig and balsamic vinegar.

0:33:090:33:13

Balsamic vinegar just gives it the edge, that slight tartness.

0:33:130:33:17

-We love you!

-Our secret weapon, Elspeth!

0:33:170:33:20

-For our contribution, we've scoured the county and I think we've got a winner.

-It's the potato.

0:33:210:33:27

No, we've got Oxford potatoes. We found it - it's goat and quince!

0:33:270:33:31

It's an Oxford goat, and we thought we'd make a dauphinoise, goat noisettes.

0:33:310:33:36

Dauphinoise? That's French.

0:33:360:33:39

It's kind of, you know, it's an amalgam.

0:33:390:33:43

We'll do carrots with caraway seeds, and we'll do broad beans.

0:33:430:33:48

But it's the locals who will decide whose dish is best in the blind tasting coming up.

0:33:490:33:54

So we'll put some beans on to blanche.

0:33:540:33:56

We're gonna get going with the dauphinoise.

0:34:000:34:02

Bring the potato backwards and forwards, and you get lovely thin slices.

0:34:020:34:05

Perfect for dauphinoise potatoes.

0:34:050:34:08

Now what I'm gonna do is season between layers.

0:34:080:34:11

Alex James' rock'n'roll goat's cheese. Just crumble that...

0:34:110:34:16

So what do you reckon? Do you reckon this is gonna work?

0:34:160:34:19

Yeah, I don't see why not.

0:34:190:34:21

Enthusiastic, you know.

0:34:210:34:23

No, it will be great.

0:34:230:34:25

I'm just chopping some garlic now.

0:34:270:34:30

That's gonna sit on top of the goat's cheese.

0:34:300:34:32

I'm gonna cut down the goat's cheese into me magnificent spuds.

0:34:320:34:35

So instead of just all cream on this, we're using half goat's milk as well.

0:34:350:34:39

-Makes sense.

-You just pour enough in till it comes to the surface.

0:34:390:34:44

Don't be mean, plenty of cream.

0:34:440:34:48

So it's basically just below the last level of potatoes, isn't it?

0:34:480:34:51

Yes. The goat's milk, I feel, will give us the edge.

0:34:510:34:54

I'm gonna put some more butter on the potatoes.

0:34:540:34:57

Just to make sure if the first layer didn't kill you, the last one will!

0:34:570:35:00

This is the caraway seed, a much maligned seed.

0:35:000:35:04

-Absolutely beautiful with carrot.

-Caraway bread!

0:35:040:35:07

Caraway bread, lovely.

0:35:090:35:10

Bring to the boil. Then we're gonna puree them.

0:35:100:35:12

Goat's cheese dauphinoise.

0:35:120:35:14

Bang it in the oven, about an hour and a quarter, until it's golden and cooked and lovely.

0:35:140:35:19

Thank you very much. Here we are. The main event.

0:35:190:35:23

This is two loins of goat meat.

0:35:250:35:28

It's as fine as you like.

0:35:280:35:30

It's a bit like lamb. What we're worried about is it may dry out.

0:35:300:35:35

So we're gonna do little noisettes, wrap them in bacon,

0:35:350:35:38

sear them, then bake them in the oven for about 10-15 minutes.

0:35:380:35:42

So they're still juicy on the inside, but a bit caramelised on the outside.

0:35:420:35:46

What we do for this noisette, we're gonna take two knuckles.

0:35:460:35:50

One knuckle, two, in depth. So we want about that size as a noisette.

0:35:500:35:54

That's what you call in the trade a twin knuckle noisette.

0:35:540:35:57

I'll show you why, cause that sits.

0:35:570:35:59

That's gonna sit lovely. As as Dave wraps it...

0:35:590:36:03

-So about that size.

-And because I'm clumsy, I'm gonna secure the bacon with a cocktail stick.

0:36:030:36:09

-Fantastic.

-I've got to admit, I think the sous-vide method of cooking would be great for this loin.

0:36:090:36:14

I'm just gonna bung it in the frying pan and sear it both sides.

0:36:140:36:18

I want the bacon crispy, but we'll do that in the oven.

0:36:180:36:21

Lovely!

0:36:250:36:26

I didn't toast the caraway seeds because I want them to be fresh.

0:36:260:36:31

I kind of want the caraway to be absorbed into that lovely flavour

0:36:310:36:35

of the carrot, so you taste more carrot than you do caraway.

0:36:350:36:38

-Sometimes if we do caraway in bread, we'll soak it in boiling water first...

-To toughen it.

0:36:380:36:43

The trademark big knob of butter.

0:36:430:36:47

-Perfect, Mr King.

-These are gonna go into the oven for about five minutes at about 180 degrees.

0:36:470:36:52

Take them out, let them rest, and then we're not too far away from plating up.

0:36:520:36:56

I've got my garlic sweating down in the butter to make me glaze.

0:36:570:37:01

I don't want that to burn though.

0:37:010:37:03

I have some hot oil here, cos I reckon a really nice finishing touch

0:37:030:37:08

is gonna be a crispy fried sage leaf.

0:37:080:37:11

The secret to good vegetables is not to overcook them.

0:37:110:37:14

Even though we're gonna puree them, I want to maintain the flavour. Now look...

0:37:140:37:18

There's a little snap to it, which means that...

0:37:180:37:22

-Oh, that's lovely.

-Elspeth and Colin's.

0:37:220:37:25

They're amazing. They're a great example of Oxfordshire ingredients.

0:37:250:37:29

They're brilliant. Just about half a jar of that and melt it down.

0:37:290:37:33

I'm gonna put some rosemary into that, some salt and pepper and a couple of teaspoons of beef stock.

0:37:330:37:38

I've drained the carrots with the caraway seeds.

0:37:380:37:41

I'm gonna pop them into a little liquidizer.

0:37:410:37:44

And at this point, because of the heat of the carrots, I'm gonna pour some butter in there.

0:37:440:37:50

Carrot puree.

0:37:500:37:52

I've put some rosemary in there now.

0:37:560:37:58

The jelly's melting. And the garlic and butter...

0:37:580:38:01

Kingy, the goat!

0:38:010:38:03

That just needs to rest now.

0:38:060:38:09

Can't you cope with your loveliness, dude?

0:38:090:38:11

-It's got bounce.

-Yes, nice. Nice.

0:38:110:38:13

Doing all right.

0:38:130:38:16

Into my glaze, I'm just gonna add a couple of spoonfuls of beef stock.

0:38:160:38:21

-Why beef?

-It's all I've got!

-Fair enough.

-We're on the road, you know!

0:38:210:38:25

That's tempering the jelly to a glaze.

0:38:270:38:31

All that remains for this is to be seasoned.

0:38:310:38:33

These have been popped from their winter coat of hideousness.

0:38:330:38:37

That's why you want the green bits in the middle.

0:38:370:38:39

The other outside bits are chewy and horrible.

0:38:390:38:42

I'm gonna whack these in here.

0:38:420:38:44

Sage leaves, I'm just gonna deep fry those.

0:38:440:38:48

They're gonna go crispy and each one is gonna surmount me noisettes. It doesn't take a minute,

0:38:480:38:53

like popcorn. There you are, I've got me crispy sage leaves.

0:38:530:38:56

All that remains for me to do is to check the seasoning on the glaze.

0:38:560:39:01

-Hot, this!

-Mr King...

-What's that?

0:39:060:39:08

Get your smackers round that.

0:39:080:39:10

That's awesome.

0:39:100:39:11

Dauphinoise, if I cut a square out like that, and then the other square into three on there...

0:39:130:39:19

-Do you want a trick to do that so it doesn't move?

-Have you got a trick?

0:39:190:39:22

If you put down a board on top of it and cut round it.

0:39:220:39:24

She's got a trick.

0:39:240:39:26

If you press that down, the potato's not going to move and then you get a straight line.

0:39:280:39:32

Emily, you know we love you in all sorts of weird ways. Look at that.

0:39:320:39:35

It seems an awful convoluted way to cut a square of potatoes.

0:39:350:39:40

-It's working. It does work.

-I think it's imagination.

0:39:400:39:46

This is the quince glaze.

0:39:490:39:50

Yeah... Don't want much.

0:39:500:39:52

Look at the colour.

0:39:530:39:55

Now for the noisettes. Just take the sticks out.

0:39:550:39:58

-Quite healthy portions, aren't they?

-They are healthy portions, yes.

0:39:580:40:02

I mean, we wouldn't make any money if we had a restaurant!

0:40:020:40:04

-Taste that.

-So you don't think that's going to melt?

0:40:060:40:09

We're not bothered really.

0:40:090:40:11

It's almost like having a little bit of chutney on the top.

0:40:140:40:17

A little crispy bit of sage leaf, again a texture thing.

0:40:180:40:23

That'll break down nicely with the rest of it. Nice textures there as well.

0:40:230:40:28

-There we go!

-The presentation there is very impressive.

-Thank you, chef.

0:40:280:40:33

There you have it, we've discovered Oxfordshire on a plate.

0:40:330:40:36

So the goat...

0:40:420:40:43

-How's it cooked?

-It's perfectly cooked. Pink in the middle.

0:40:490:40:52

-The flavours are great.

-Actually it was quite difficult to get the kid here.

0:40:530:40:59

Go on girl, keep chewing, keep chewing!

0:40:590:41:02

-She's like a dog chewing a caramel!

-The kid flavour was delicious.

0:41:020:41:07

The flavours are all very nice. There's a lot of them on the plate.

0:41:070:41:10

It's a powerful dish really.

0:41:100:41:12

The diners here will taste both dishes, but without any idea who cooked which.

0:41:140:41:19

First up is Emily's locally shot partridge with violet potato dumplings.

0:41:190:41:25

A taste of Oxfordshire in the flavour of the meat.

0:41:250:41:28

It was clearly fresh and very attractive.

0:41:280:41:31

The meat was good but very difficult to cut.

0:41:310:41:34

The first piece I had was chewy but the next piece was very tender.

0:41:340:41:38

I like the way the kale kept its colour.

0:41:380:41:41

I don't often have fowl with dumplings, so worthwhile to do.

0:41:410:41:45

Mauve potatoes? You expect potatoes to be creamy white.

0:41:450:41:49

Some mixed reviews there. We're next in the firing line.

0:41:510:41:54

Fingers crossed for our noisettes and goat's cheese dauphinoise.

0:41:540:41:58

I live in Oxfordshire and that's the first time I've had kid.

0:41:580:42:02

But I must say I'm going to have it again because I did enjoy it.

0:42:020:42:06

The flavours were really, really nice.

0:42:060:42:08

The meat was just slightly tough.

0:42:080:42:10

I found it lovely to eat, except the meat.

0:42:100:42:14

We love quince. I don't know if it's goat, but it's very acceptable.

0:42:140:42:19

Well, I loved the flavours, I really did, because I have a sweet tooth.

0:42:190:42:23

Dauphinoise, creamy and excellent.

0:42:230:42:26

Just the meat let it down, I'm afraid.

0:42:260:42:30

Hello, good evening. How are you?

0:42:300:42:32

Thank you very much. Good people of Oxfordshire, thank you very much for coming today.

0:42:320:42:37

We've worked hard in the kitchen.

0:42:370:42:39

We have, the three of us, haven't we?

0:42:390:42:41

We'd like you to choose which dish you prefer.

0:42:430:42:46

Either the partridge or the goat.

0:42:460:42:48

Now could we have a show of hands for the partridge, please.

0:42:480:42:51

So that's one, two, three, four.

0:42:530:42:55

Could we have a show of hands for the auld nanny, the goat, please.

0:42:550:43:00

One, two, three, four, five.

0:43:000:43:03

Actually Dave and I cooked the goat, Emily cooked the partridge.

0:43:040:43:09

But for us, Emily's the winner really, because we're not professional chefs.

0:43:090:43:14

We're cooks. Emily's the professional chef.

0:43:140:43:16

And we have to say we've learnt so much from you.

0:43:160:43:19

-That's very kind, sir.

-You've been such a generous chef.

0:43:190:43:22

It's been good fun having you.

0:43:220:43:23

That was a close call, and Emily was a great sport.

0:43:250:43:28

But without the stunning local produce, we'd never have done it.

0:43:280:43:32

Oxfordshire, what a fantastic county.

0:43:320:43:35

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:390:43:42

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0:43:420:43:46

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