Gwynedd The Hairy Bikers' Food Tour of Britain


Gwynedd

Si King and Dave Myers explore Gwynedd, where they cook a traditional county favourite in Portmeirion, visit a mountain lamb farmer and meet a man growing exotic mushrooms.


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Transcript


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We're the Harry Bikers, finding regional recipes to rev up your appetite.

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-We're riding county to county to discover, cook and enjoy the best of British.

-Come on! Wey-hey!

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We're here to define the true taste of Gwynedd.

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Oh, it's beautiful, isn't it?

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-This is magnificent! Oh!

-This is... Where are you going?

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Just - look! I feel inspired.

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Look! Ooh! To see the world in a grain of sand! And heaven in a white flower!

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To hold infinity in the palm of your hand and eternity within the hour.

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Get down from there, you! You're going to hurt yourself.

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It's the land of poetry and song - Gwynedd.

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You know, it's not just sheep in them there hills.

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Endless coastlines, golden beaches.

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-I bet food reflects the landscape.

-Rugged.

-It's gotta be hearty, tasty.

-Oh, aye. It's gonna be good.

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'On our quest to define the true flavours of Gwynedd,

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'we drive into the magical land of Portmeirion and cook up a traditional county favourite.

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'We help out on a farm and get our hands on some of the tastiest lamb in the county.

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'We find spectacular mushrooms of all shapes and sizes grown by a fun guy named Cynan.

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'And representing Gwynedd in the cook-off is Peter Jackson.

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'Will we be able to beat him using the county's finest ingredients?'

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'First stop - Pwllheli. We need to know what traditionally gets Gwynedd taste buds going.'

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I'm trying to find out what's, like, the famous produce and famous dishes of Gwynedd?

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You have lobscouse. It's a stew you can make either with beef or lamb.

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Some people put leek. Some people put sprouts, potatoes.

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A good filler with fresh crispy bread.

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Ah! Yeah.

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-Welsh lamb.

-Welsh lamb.

-And beef! Wonderful beef, wonderful beef.

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Hello, ladies. What are your local specialities?

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I'd say... For Pwllheli, I'd say seafood.

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-There's lobscouse, which is like veg and meat and...

-It's a bit like a stew.

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It's got to be lobscouse, innit?

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My gran used to make it for me. My mum used to make it for me.

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It's a well-known dish in Wales, like, lobscouse.

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-It's got to be lobscouse we cook.

-It's got to be.

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Now, you may think we've gone completely bonking mad. We know this is a Spar, but...

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This is closer to Fortnum & Mason's than your average Spar shop.

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Come and have a look.

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'Conrad Davis' family have owned this award-winning store for five generations.

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'He's made it his business to celebrate local produce.'

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Lately, we've really got behind local producers, suppliers,

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and really, really pushed and marketed the products we've got,

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-and quality, good Welsh products.

-Show us what you've got!

-No problem.

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Local carrots, just from six miles up the road.

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We've got some lovely spuds here, locally grown.

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Again, this is our same man, our carrot man.

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-Right.

-And he grows broccolis, cauliflowers.

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We've got Swedes off him. He does all of our produce for us.

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Obviously, being on the peninsula, a big thing here is shellfish.

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-Yes.

-These crabs... Well, they were in the pots yesterday.

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We do all our own butchering, as you can see. Welsh lamb, Welsh beef,

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the full works. People are really going for the cheaper cuts of meat.

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-Right.

-If you look at something like this ox heart.

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-Think of the meal you can do with that now.

-Yeah.

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And you have that for a nice Saturday night. Cracking steaks.

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Look at that, fresh pheasants and wild ducks.

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-These are up the road literally, the local game keeper.

-That's mad!

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-Ah, yes! Where do we start? Pie.

-Carol Harvey makes these for us.

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Made with Welsh Black beef. You can get them here, on her farm shop and Harrods.

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-Hey!

-The crust's fantastic.

-It is.

-It tastes like a homemade pie.

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-Let's try this crab. Oh!

-Yeah.

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We've got suppliers who supplied my grandfather, and I'm now working with their grandchildren.

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This looks like a top butcher's. Hello.

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-Hiya. How are you?

-I'm all right.

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We'll be cooking a lobscouse. Can you show us what beef we need?

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-You need the cheaper cuts.

-Right.

-That's what we use around here.

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-Can you do us a marrow bone as well?

-Oh, yeah. You need bone with it.

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-Is there a chance of having a look at a four quarter hanging?

-Yeah. We can cut it up for you.

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-Right, this is it.

-That's beef.

-This is Welsh beef, four quarter.

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What's the advantage of using the cheaper cuts of meat?

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-Well, the advantage to the housewife is you can get a lot more meat for your money.

-Wow.

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-So what cuts of beef do we need?

-This is one of the most favourite ones in Wales.

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-It's called the sherry.

-Look at that.

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-This is called the clod.

-It'd take me a fortnight to do that.

-Me too.

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-So fast.

-We've got the brisket down here and then you've got your neck.

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-A lot of fat in it.

-Those cuts need longer.

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-Not the flash fry.

-No.

-They're not like sirloin, not like fillet.

-No.

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It needs to be reheated and add veggies to it. Eat it the first day and reheat it the second day.

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My mum used to have it going all week.

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-Look at the marrow in that, man. Yeah.

-You'll only get that from a proper butcher's.

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-Anything off this will scouse.

-You can scouse it.

-Scouse it, yeah.

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-That's when the dish has become part of the county's vocabulary, isn't it?

-Absolutely.

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Can you scouse it? I think we can.

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Gwynedd's world-famous beauty spot, Portmeirion,

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is a perfect place to cook the county's traditional dish.

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Designed by architect Clough Williams-Ellis in 1925,

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it's inspired by the Italian fishing village Portofino.

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Even on a Welsh grey day, its colours bring a bit of sunshine.

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-This is bonkers, isn't it?

-It is.

-A small Italian village on the side of the water, absolutely gorgeous.

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It's Welsh and it's wacky.

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Hello, sir.

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'No time for a chat, we've got a hungry crowd waiting for us.

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'We're cooking up...

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'lobscouse, a simple and traditional stew

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'made from beef, potatoes, onions, turnip and carrots.'

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-Right!

-After exhaustive research, with the good people of Pwllheli....

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-Pwllheli... Pwllheli?

-He's got his own teeth as well, you know.

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The dish that everybody said was representative of Gwynedd was the lobscouse.

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Good, hearty traditional fare. Right. First off, we need to brown the meat.

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What you don't want to do is put a lot of meat in the pan, you see, cos all it does then is steam.

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-You can do it in batches and put your batches in there.

-Exactly.

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There you are, that's enough. Brown it off.

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-It doesn't take long, does it?

-I know.

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Every stew has got its onions, though, hasn't it?

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It's a very simple recipe this.

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He's manning the fire and I'm manning the chopper.

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I'll do my potatoes next.

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-Good Welsh's spuds.

-Come and have a look.

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We've just added a bit of colour on this meat now, look. See?

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A little bit brown there like that.

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Now before we peeled them, they had muck on.

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-Buy potatoes that have muck on, cos they're tastier.

-Why peel them?

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-All the goodness is just under the skin.

-I agree.

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-You've got to peel for mash, though, haven't you?

-No.

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-You mash the skins as well?

-Yes.

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You've got to peel your potatoes. That's not right, that.

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Mm!

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Marrow's great in stews, isn't it?

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You put a couple of marrowbones and just seal them and put the marrowbones in with the stew.

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-That will thicken it and make it sticky, and make it stick your ribs.

-Look at this.

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Leave that for a minute or two.

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-Look at that.

-Oh.

-I'm just going to take this out.

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-That's about enough now.

-That's lovely.

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Does anybody here cook lobscouse?

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Madam, any tips?

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-Cook it for a long time.

-BOTH: Yeah.

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I save my vegetable stock, that gives it a good flavour.

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-Yes.

-Good top tip, Mrs.

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Right, the building blocks of all good stews, onions. Just sweated.

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We've maintained and kept all the same flavours in the same pot.

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-Rotate them through the dish.

-When you're cooking, you always take flavours.

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Like that lady said about the stocks, why waste flavour?

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If you're doing meat, you keep the bit from the meat, from the veg,

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it all builds up and you get better tasting food.

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I'm chopping my turnip now to go with the potatoes. I'll put those in

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to toss round with the fat and juices and loveliness.

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-I think that's enough.

-That will do us.

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Just add a little bit of seasoning.

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And a leek.

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But you can put what vegetables you want in a lobscouse!

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-I wouldn't put sweet corn in.

-No, that would be wrong!

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-You've got to have leeks, it's Welsh.

-Exactly.

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-It's a well-packed pan.

-It is a well-packed pan.

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Now then, a little bit more salt.

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Do you know what we're going to do for a little twist? A bay leaf.

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-Throw a couple in.

-There we are.

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All lobscouse should have carrot. The carrot adds flavour and colour.

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-And a little bit of sweetness.

-Sweetness.

-Now then...

-Now then!

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Bury in the middle of that unctuousness,

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the two marrowbones.

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-Oh, that's champion.

-Then what we're gonna do... Put that on the top.

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-It's a big lobscouse, this.

-Put some stock in there.

-Aye!

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Right...

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-It's there, it's there.

-That's lovely, lovely.

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Anybody got any suggestions now? To my money, what we do

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is cover that up and cook that for hours and hours.

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-Some pepper.

-On its way, madam.

-And a bay leaf.

-Put two in.

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-Oh, you've done that?

-Yeah, done that.

-Have you been asleep?

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Just pop that in a low oven, about 130 degrees for about two days.

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Has anybody got Scrabble?

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-Oh, thank you, madam.

-Oh, there you are, madam.

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Aha! In true Blue Peter sort of style fashion...

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here's one we made earlier, look.

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Look at that. Look, see. That's worth an "ooh", isn't it?

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-Have a waft, Mrs, have a waft.

-Lobscouse, made in Wales.

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Oh... Oh, lovely.

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-All we need to serve that with is crusty bread and butter.

-Yes.

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Who's good with their hands? We'll go through that lovely arch and eat his food.

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What are you lot standing for? You're coming with me. Come on! Come on, here we go.

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-Let's go and eat stew in the rain.

-What a good idea. Isn't it?

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There you are.

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'This is such a county favourite, everyone had their version. So will ours be up to scratch?'

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-It's like a lobscouse garden party!

-It's a lobscouse rave, dude.

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-Some canapes and lots of stew.

-Loads of stew.

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-What do you think of our lobscouse?

-Absolutely fantastic.

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-My mother never made it like this in her life.

-Didn't she?

-No. God rest her soul.

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-Madam.

-Really, really nice.

-Nice and seasoned, isn't it?

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It's dead simple. Good meat, good veg, let it go for hours. There's no secret.

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-This is a serious one.

-Very good, very good.

-How many out of 10?

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-10 out of 10.

-Really?

-Really?

-Definitely.

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Now then, what do you reckon to our effort?

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-Well, it's warming the cockles of my heart.

-Tasty?

-Very good. Excellent.

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-Ardderchog.

-Oh, gawd!

-Blasus iawn.

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-Ardderchog.

-Blasus iawn.

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-Blasus iawn. Ardderchog. Blasus iawn.

-That's really good.

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Oh, thank you.

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SHE SPEAKS WELSH, THEY REPEAT WHAT SHE SAYS

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-Call again.

-Call again.

-Oh, thank you very much!

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Our lobscouse was a hit in Welsh and English!

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But our biggest challenge is just around the corner.

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'As always, we're taking on one of the county's top chefs in their restaurant,

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'using local ingredients to see who can best define the taste of the region.

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'It's up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents

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'the true favours of Gwynedd. Our opponent today is...

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'Peter Jackson, head chef and owner of Maes-Y-Neuadd.

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'Peter is President of the Welsh Culinary Association.

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'He champions local food and has the finest ingredients on his doorstep.'

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Most produce we get comes from within 30 miles.

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Out the front door, on the right, I've got Snowdonia,

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so I can get mountain lambs, lowland lambs, salt marsh lamb, beautiful Welsh Black Beef.

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And to my left is Cardigan Bay, where I get sea bass, grey mullet,

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cockles, mussels, big prawns, even samphire off the estuary.

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Food miles are very important to me.

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Closer to home, I have two acres under cultivation for produce for myself.

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You name it, we can grow it.

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People come to Maes-Y-Neuadd, because we work around the seasons.

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The menu changes every day with as much local produce as possible.

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It's all about freshness, cooked simple. Presentation is number two. Taste is number one.

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Cooking off the land makes a chef's job very easy and being in Gwynedd makes it even better.

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I'm really proud to live here. All the farmers come with produce. "Do you want this or that?"

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And I say to them, "Ask a silly question!" Of course I want them!

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To take on the bikers, my taste of Gwynedd is a trio of duck.

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A lovely breast on an apple and pear compote, a little rissole of duck and barley, rolled in local oats

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with hot brawn of duck, butternut squash and a fabulous sloe gin foam.

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-Peter.

-Hello there.

-Nice to see you. How are you?

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Welcome to the hotel Maes-Y-Neuadd.

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Well, Mr Peter Jackson, here we are.

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What are your cooking, Peter?

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We're going to use some wild ducks that were shot not far from here.

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I'm going to do them three ways. We'll do the breast very simple,

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with an apple and pear compote with beautiful thyme from our garden.

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We've got the rissole, which is used in the duck confit with barley.

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-The third thing is we're going to do brawn.

-A duck brawn?

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A duck brawn, but with a modern twist.

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-Hot.

-Nah, how do you have hot brawn?

-It doesn't work.

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-Honestly!

-And a sloe gin foam.

-Oh, no!

-He's doing a foam!

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-It's our nightmare, foam.

-Are we ready to start?

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-Yes, yes, chef.

-Wild ducks.

-Yes.

-Yeah.

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Two sizes, one male, one female. We're going to take the legs off.

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-Which one's the biggest, male or female?

-Female.

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-Sitting around all day.

-Cos the male spends all day chasing females.

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-Exactly.

-Good meat on those ducks.

-There is. And it's all natural.

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-Look at the breast on that bird! God!

-Beautiful, isn't it?

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-Absolutely beautiful.

-It's great.

-Absolutely great product.

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After I've seasoned the ducks, put them down, seasoned side down.

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-Too many chefs don't season food.

-Yes, yes.

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Go into a bloody steakhouse, and there's no salt on the steak,

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-and it's the most awful thing you can have.

-Yeah.

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And then just season the other side before you turn it over.

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It's a note Dave and I have picked up a lot, that some chefs put stuff out the kitchen

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without even tasting it. And it's madness.

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What we're going to do, put this in a tray and leave them for

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five to ten minutes and we'll catch up with them later in the dish.

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Now what we want to do is seal the legs off and roast them.

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What would you do with the carcasses, Peter?

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-I would make stock. Roast them off, make stock.

-Yeah. Wonderful.

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Put this in the oven to roast for a little bit and then we'll add the duck back later.

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The next thing we need to get on is the apple compote. I've got the pears and apples ready.

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Pan on the stove. A little bit of unsalted butter.

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The reason it is unsalted, you can adjust the seasoning for yourself.

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Some of the butters you get from the supermarket are heavily salted.

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-Absolutely.

-There's a couple of... The English ones especially.

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And we'll just chop a little bit of shallot.

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Now there's a skill. That's what you call fine.

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Years of practice. Into the pan.

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-That's a little shallot.

-Just a little.

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-Use a bit of the fresh thyme.

-I can smell that from here.

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When we write the menu each day, the first people we speak to is the gardeners.

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They come up with a list of what they've got.

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Then we think about fish and meat and building the menu up and the third thing we think about is

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customers who've been here for a few days, so they never get the same menu when they're here.

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That's fabulous. That is fabulous. Is that sugar or salt?

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That's salt. Salt and pepper.

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-These butternut squashes came from the garden.

-Wow!

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-We've got duck stock, which we've made already.

-Oh, look at that.

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This is for the hot brawn.

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To that, we're going to add 1.5 grams of gellan gum.

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Gellan gum? This is this miracle kind of gelatine that isn't affected by heat.

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That's right, then you can take it up to 120 degrees.

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-Wow!

-Now we've got that on to boil were going to start on the little rissoles.

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-Some cooked barley.

-What do you cook your barley with, Peter?

-A little bit of garlic,

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maybe some rosemary, one of the harder herbs, the woody ones,

0:17:400:17:44

-and stock.

-It's almost like risotto as it is.

0:17:440:17:47

To that we add a little bit of mashed potato just as a binding agent. Chopped shallots.

0:17:470:17:52

I want to admit, I really like the look of this.

0:17:520:17:55

-Some duck confit which we've taken off the bone.

-Yeah.

0:17:550:17:58

And a little bit of diced veg.

0:17:580:17:59

Got some carrots, parsnips, celeriac and French beans in it.

0:17:590:18:03

-Is that raw?

-It's been slightly blanched.

-Right.

0:18:030:18:06

We're just going to mix that together.

0:18:060:18:10

-Oh, yes, indeed.

-That looks good, doesn't it?

-Simple but fabulous.

0:18:100:18:14

-That's all heated hot enough now.

-What part of the dish is this for?

-This is for hot brawn.

0:18:140:18:19

That's the brawn, that's the croquette.

0:18:190:18:22

We're using some of the same ingredients in here.

0:18:220:18:24

-He's got a lot going on!

-He has! Nicely paced and relaxed, though.

-It is, yeah.

-Very lovely.

0:18:240:18:30

-But there's a rhythm between our dishes.

-And reflections of flavour.

0:18:300:18:33

Exactly. I'm using egg cups for this. Just little moulds.

0:18:330:18:38

-Fabulous.

-It's as simple as that.

0:18:380:18:41

-Goodness gracious.

-How audacious.

0:18:410:18:44

We're just going to put these behind us at the moment.

0:18:440:18:48

-Out of the way. They'll set up themselves.

-Right.

0:18:480:18:51

Look at that. It's setting up. It's hot an' all!

0:18:510:18:55

We're going to make the croquettes now. We're going to have a line up.

0:18:550:18:59

I'm going to do the flour, you do the egg wash, and you do the breadcrumbs.

0:18:590:19:03

-Through the breadcrumbs, we have oats.

-This isn't just egg?

0:19:030:19:07

It's egg and a little bit of cream.

0:19:070:19:09

We're just going to get some little shapes like that. Egg wash.

0:19:090:19:14

Go on, just drop them in there, dude.

0:19:140:19:17

-I think this is a lovely recipe. One I'll do at home.

-There we go.

0:19:170:19:21

-Beautiful.

-Right. Our favourite ingredient, sloe gin.

-Slow!

0:19:210:19:26

Very slow. Just get a little bit with the berries.

0:19:260:19:30

To that we add a little bit of oil.

0:19:300:19:32

-Just cooking oil?

-Normal vegetable cooking oil.

0:19:320:19:35

Then we're going to add a little bit of lecithin.

0:19:350:19:38

-What's lecithin?

-It emulsifies the oil and the sloe gin.

-Right, OK.

0:19:380:19:42

-You put it in jam, don't you?

-Yeah, exactly.

0:19:420:19:45

That's for making the foam. So we bring that to the boil. Put a pan on

0:19:450:19:48

for vegetable oils for cooking the little rissoles or croquettes.

0:19:480:19:52

We need a bit of jus to go with it. We'll use a little bit of butter,

0:19:520:19:56

some chopped shallots, a little bit of thyme. That goes in.

0:19:560:20:00

And then, I've got some dark duck stock.

0:20:000:20:04

-That's like duck elixir.

-It is, and you won't need much.

0:20:040:20:07

So now, sloe gin, the emulsification's boiled.

0:20:070:20:10

Just take that off and let that cool down.

0:20:100:20:13

This should be hot enough to cook the little rissoles.

0:20:130:20:16

Listen to that! There's something lovely about that sizzle.

0:20:160:20:21

What's the duck stock gone into?

0:20:240:20:26

It's gone into the chopped shallots and the thyme and the butter.

0:20:260:20:30

-Your juice, your gravy.

-That's right.

0:20:300:20:32

The oatmeal looks fantastic. It gives a really nice finish.

0:20:320:20:37

-You have that speckled effect. It's the taste.

-Lovely colour.

-It is.

0:20:370:20:41

The next thing we've got to do is puree the butternut squash.

0:20:410:20:46

-But I've already got some done.

-Ah, ye tinker!

0:20:460:20:49

We've got a very fine puree there, and that's to go on the plate.

0:20:490:20:53

-The other thing we need to do is get the ducks and put them in the oven.

-So what's next, Peter?

0:20:530:20:58

We're very close to plating up, but we've got to put the jellies back in, to heat them up.

0:20:580:21:03

-They won't go liquid?

-Not at all.

0:21:030:21:05

-We will just put these in a little pan of water.

-That's mad!

0:21:050:21:09

Next thing we've got to do is the foam, and make sure it's working.

0:21:090:21:13

We've taken this down to about 40 degrees and then get a little hand blender.

0:21:130:21:18

You can see the foam's working.

0:21:200:21:22

You can just take the foam off,

0:21:220:21:24

and that can sit there for an hour.

0:21:240:21:27

-Like foamed, like that?

-Yes, foams like that, yeah.

0:21:270:21:31

-That'll...? Wow!

-It won't collapse?

-It won't collapse, no.

0:21:310:21:34

Right, guys, we're ready to plate.

0:21:340:21:37

Take a bit of the apple compote, which we keep quite chunky.

0:21:370:21:40

We used eating apples so they stay together.

0:21:400:21:42

If you use cooking apples, they go to mush. We want a bit of body.

0:21:420:21:46

-Lovely breast of duck. Look how pink that is.

-That is beautiful.

0:21:490:21:53

Then we are putting the rissoles on.

0:21:550:21:59

-Oh, yes.

-Now we've got the jelly.

0:21:590:22:02

-Look at that!

-If we did this it'd probably stick.

-That's hot.

0:22:040:22:09

-You can see the steam coming off it.

-Yeah, wow!

-That's insane, isn't it?

0:22:090:22:14

-Then we take a bit of butternut puree.

-Look, it's not a dollop there, mate.

0:22:140:22:19

Oh, it's a smear.

0:22:190:22:21

Then we've got foam.

0:22:210:22:23

That one's still there.

0:22:230:22:25

I think that's amazing.

0:22:250:22:26

Fabulous.

0:22:280:22:31

Finish it off with a little bit of jus. And the other side.

0:22:310:22:36

There we have our trio of wild duck. The breast is on there.

0:22:380:22:41

Apple and pear confit with thyme in it.

0:22:410:22:44

We've got the rissole, which has got the barley, different flavours,

0:22:440:22:49

and then the clever thing is the hot brawn of duck.

0:22:490:22:52

-Just a little bit of jus to go on it.

-It's lovely, it's fabulous.

0:22:520:22:57

I'm interested in this wild duck breast here.

0:22:580:23:02

-That croquette's something I'd cook at home.

-Right. Let's have the jus.

0:23:020:23:07

Ah, that's good. That's the best wild duck I've ever tasted.

0:23:070:23:12

-That's unbelievable.

-So easy to get wrong, duck brawn.

0:23:120:23:16

I've got to get back to this duck breast, and the apple. It's just unreal.

0:23:160:23:21

It's pretty amazing really.

0:23:210:23:24

-That was a real tough one for me.

-So do I.

0:23:240:23:26

Not the duck, the challenge.

0:23:260:23:28

Remember, it's not just about a good dish.

0:23:280:23:31

It's what represents the county of Gwynedd better.

0:23:310:23:35

It's the locals who will decide whose dish is best in a blind tasting coming up.

0:23:370:23:42

BOTH: Duck!

0:23:500:23:51

-What's in the hills, the valleys, up the mountains?

-Slate.

-Sheep, man!

0:23:510:23:57

I knew it began with S.

0:23:570:23:58

-Oh god.

-You are so right. We could do a trio of Welsh lamb.

0:23:580:24:03

That's a good idea. We could get creative and jazzy and lovely.

0:24:030:24:08

We need to find a Welsh hill farmer. We need to find the best.

0:24:080:24:12

-There's one over there.

-Charge!

0:24:120:24:15

Dewi Owen is a fourth-generation farmer.

0:24:200:24:23

He tends to 500 ewes and produces some of the best lamb in Wales.

0:24:230:24:27

After losing out to the supermarkets,

0:24:270:24:29

he set up a co-operative selling lamb direct to customers.

0:24:290:24:33

-Nice to see you in Wales.

-Ey-ey!

0:24:330:24:37

It's not a bad spot, is it?

0:24:370:24:39

-No. An excellent view.

-We're off. Can we see your friends?

0:24:390:24:43

You're just in time to feed them this morning.

0:24:430:24:46

Come on then. I'm give you a lift up to the top.

0:24:460:24:49

Get out the way! Woo-hoo!

0:24:530:24:55

-Are you OK back there?

-Smashing, aye!

0:25:000:25:03

You see what it means, being on a hill farm now?

0:25:060:25:09

-Oh, aye!

-Yeah.

0:25:090:25:10

-Right. Just run it along.

-Run it along slowly. Steady on, guys.

0:25:210:25:25

-Mind your legs. They'll take your legs away from you.

-Made in Wales.

0:25:250:25:30

They're so healthy, aren't they?

0:25:300:25:33

-Dewi, what do the spots mean?

-See the ones with the red spots?

0:25:330:25:37

-They're all carrying twins.

-Right!

-Most farmers scan their ewes now.

0:25:370:25:42

-Those with two red spots are carrying triplets.

-Wow!

0:25:420:25:45

That's my profit for next year, isn't it?

0:25:450:25:48

Look at that, it's profit for your soul, isn't it? Look at that.

0:25:480:25:54

Why is it that your lambs taste so good?

0:25:540:25:57

I think it's the salt air here, cos we're close to the sea.

0:25:570:26:00

Salt sweetens food a bit.

0:26:000:26:03

How old were you when you delivered your first lamb?

0:26:030:26:06

Six or seven. A long time ago now.

0:26:060:26:09

I remember going with my father round the sheep.

0:26:090:26:12

Of course we were lambing out then.

0:26:120:26:15

He was walking the hills three times a day then.

0:26:150:26:18

These ewes will be coming in, in about two to three weeks time because they'll be lambing indoors.

0:26:180:26:24

-This is the shed we use for lambing.

-It's your maternity ward!

0:26:240:26:30

This is the maternity ward.

0:26:300:26:34

These are about a week to 10 days old now.

0:26:340:26:37

Very cute, aren't they?

0:26:370:26:39

These will be ready for the market within about 16 weeks,

0:26:390:26:44

three months' time. That side, those are last year's lambs

0:26:440:26:48

and some will be going to the butchers next week.

0:26:480:26:51

-Would that be hogget?

-Those would be hogget.

-Right.

0:26:510:26:56

Jump in there and you can catch me a lamb.

0:26:560:26:59

Look, it's me woolly jumper.

0:26:590:27:02

You are so beautiful.

0:27:020:27:05

I want a number 12 on him. Unless we number the lambs

0:27:050:27:09

with its mother we don't know which lamb is with which ewe.

0:27:090:27:13

-I want a 12 on the sheep now.

-My God, it's the Mona Lisa!

0:27:150:27:19

That's the one I'll be recognising now all summer!

0:27:190:27:23

I think with Dewi's lamb, we're with a shout against Peter Jackson.

0:27:230:27:28

Because if we can go with a pure Welsh product,

0:27:280:27:33

-cook it well, that's our chance.

-There's no argument then, is there?

-No.

0:27:330:27:38

Dewi also has his own butcher in the local town.

0:27:400:27:43

His son-in-law, Martin, is going to sort us out with the cuts we need.

0:27:430:27:48

There we are, gents.

0:27:480:27:49

Perfect, beautiful Welsh lamb.

0:27:490:27:52

-Look at that.

-That's been hung for a week.

0:27:520:27:55

-Beautiful shoulder for you.

-Perfect.

0:27:550:27:58

Two French trimmed racks of lamb.

0:27:580:28:01

We're going to cook a trio of lamb from Dewi's hilltops,

0:28:070:28:11

a herb crusted rack, a slow roasted confit of shoulder and a lamb adobe.

0:28:110:28:15

But for the adobe, we need some extra special ingredients.

0:28:220:28:25

We heard about the man who claims he can get into the mind of a mushroom.

0:28:250:28:30

His name, Cynan Jones.

0:28:300:28:32

This is definitely it. On the money.

0:28:380:28:40

What do you mean, on the money? There's not a mushroom in sight!

0:28:400:28:44

They said we are at Wales's premier mushroom producing facility.

0:28:440:28:48

-What?

-Co-ordinates never lie.

0:28:480:28:51

We are here.

0:28:510:28:52

Hello lads.

0:28:520:28:53

-Are you Cynan?

-I am. How are you?

-Pleased to meet you.

-Hello.

0:28:530:28:58

Nice to see you. How are you?

0:28:580:29:00

-You looking for mushrooms?

-Yeah!

-Aye!

-Come on. Follow me. Come in.

0:29:000:29:04

It's going to be lovely!

0:29:040:29:06

-Ooh!

-Bloomin' eck!

-Crikey!

-Crumbs!

0:29:060:29:10

Wow! I'd never guess this was here.

0:29:100:29:13

-How do you cultivate a mushroom?

-It starts like this.

0:29:130:29:18

This is a bag of sawdust and woodchip

0:29:180:29:21

inoculated with the mushroom spawn. Then they're left in this warm atmosphere for eight weeks.

0:29:210:29:27

They think it's the summer.

0:29:270:29:29

25 degrees. After eight weeks, the bag becomes like this.

0:29:290:29:34

It's a solid block and crusting.

0:29:340:29:37

See the cracks appearing? This tells me it's waiting to burst out.

0:29:370:29:44

Now we cheat the mushroom to make it think winter's coming.

0:29:440:29:47

So, it's got to go to the unit next door.

0:29:470:29:49

-That's autumn, where it's cooler and damper.

-The man's a genius, dude!

0:29:490:29:55

-It's all very magical, isn't it?

-Yeah. I tell you what...

0:29:550:29:58

-You're getting inside the mushroom's head, you see? Cheating it.

-You see?

0:29:580:30:03

Let's go next door to the autumn.

0:30:030:30:05

This is really going to blow your mind. Come in. Come in.

0:30:050:30:10

Wow! Ho-ho!

0:30:100:30:12

Wow! Hey, man, this is fantastic.

0:30:150:30:17

-What variety of mushrooms do you cultivate?

-Shiitake and oyster. Those are the two favourites.

0:30:170:30:24

And it's cold in here because it's autumn?

0:30:240:30:27

It's autumn. It's 10-12 degrees, 87% humidity,

0:30:270:30:30

lights on 12 hours, off 12 hours controlled automatically.

0:30:300:30:34

-So, how old are these mushrooms here?

-A couple days old.

-Really?

0:30:340:30:40

Caps just about opening.

0:30:400:30:42

In another three or four days, they'll be almost perfect.

0:30:420:30:46

Wow! Look at those.

0:30:460:30:49

That is beautiful.

0:30:490:30:51

These have been here about two weeks. Just about perfect.

0:30:510:30:55

When you cut those two, will more mushrooms appear in their place?

0:30:550:30:59

Yeah. You can see more cracking on these blocks. They will fruit over the next week.

0:30:590:31:05

Look at the baby ones!

0:31:050:31:08

Little trumpets.

0:31:080:31:09

Solid, aren't they? Like wax.

0:31:090:31:12

Don't pick mushrooms if you don't know what they are.

0:31:120:31:16

If you can't identify it, leave them in the ground and let them grow.

0:31:160:31:20

-The death cap. Sounds like a terrible way of killing you.

-You eat it in stroganoff with the pork.

0:31:200:31:27

Then four hours later you're violently sick and you think, it must be the pork.

0:31:270:31:33

Then you get better.

0:31:330:31:35

Two weeks later, you die

0:31:350:31:37

-cos it takes two weeks for your liver to pack up.

-Whoosh!

0:31:370:31:41

-Can we buy some mushrooms?

-Choose which ones you want.

-Shiitake, oyster and dried. Yeah?

0:31:410:31:47

That's beautiful.

0:31:470:31:49

Get some big oysters. Look at these trumpet oysters. Right at the base.

0:31:490:31:55

-Pick those beauties! Oh, yes!

-Cynan, thanks, man. Fantastic!

0:31:550:32:02

We're going to get the big guns out now.

0:32:020:32:04

The hairy bikers' trio of Welsh lamb.

0:32:040:32:07

We have Welsh lamb adobe, with fine Welsh mushrooms.

0:32:070:32:10

A herb crusted rack of lamb, French trimmed,

0:32:100:32:13

and a confit of Welsh shoulder of lamb with a splash of jus.

0:32:130:32:17

It will be up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents Gwynedd.

0:32:170:32:21

The first lamb is the shoulder of lamb.

0:32:210:32:25

-This needs the bejesus cooking out of it.

-It does.

-Over to Mr King.

0:32:250:32:29

This is about keeping all the flavours together.

0:32:290:32:33

We're going to sear the lamb. Listen to this.

0:32:330:32:36

LAMB SIZZLES

0:32:360:32:37

-Just hold it down like that.

-Are you going to use any flavourings?

-Yep.

0:32:370:32:42

Traditional rosemary, anchovies and garlic.

0:32:420:32:47

Don't be frightened to get involved with your meat.

0:32:470:32:51

This shoulder has a perfect handle.

0:32:510:32:54

There we are. This is so easy.

0:32:540:32:58

Just take two heads of garlic, like so.

0:32:580:33:01

Sprinkle some rosemary, like so.

0:33:010:33:03

A couple of fronds, like that. The anchovies.

0:33:030:33:07

If you say to people, "I've got anchovies on your lamb" they won't know if you don't tell them.

0:33:070:33:13

Pepper. That's a work of art in itself, man.

0:33:130:33:16

Lastly, a good slug of a dry white wine. You don't want it to boil dry.

0:33:160:33:21

Wrap it in a double layer of tinfoil. Really wrap it.

0:33:210:33:25

The reason that we're doing this is to keep those flavours in the meat.

0:33:250:33:30

When it's all tucked up, put it in a preheated oven at 140-50 degrees centigrade depending on your oven.

0:33:300:33:37

Six hours, or overnight. Right then, veggies.

0:33:370:33:41

We're going to do a three-veg mash.

0:33:410:33:43

We've got some lovely potatoes, Jerusalem artichoke, and a head of celeriac.

0:33:430:33:49

-Equal quantities of the three vegs.

-Are you cooking them separately

0:33:490:33:54

-cos of the different cooking times?

-Yes.

0:33:540:33:56

Now, the second element is the rack of lamb.

0:33:560:34:00

We're going to sear these. Oh, Captain Sear!

0:34:000:34:03

Sear the end, now we make a crumb coating for this. Couple of good handfuls of breadcrumbs.

0:34:030:34:10

Fresh, not dried.

0:34:100:34:12

Some parsley.

0:34:120:34:16

That looks fabulous.

0:34:160:34:18

-To this, some fresh mint.

-Fabulous.

-Some finely chopped rosemary.

0:34:180:34:23

Season that and add a good glug of olive oil for the crunchy coating.

0:34:230:34:28

Now, to keep the crunchy coating, on said rack of lamb, score it.

0:34:280:34:34

-That will hold that crust really nicely.

-The other thing that's great with lamb, mustard.

0:34:340:34:40

-Just get a medium mild mustard. How's the potatoes?

-Done.

0:34:400:34:46

-I've been careful with this coating because we'll cut it into chops.

-I think I'm in trouble now.

0:34:460:34:53

-You think?

-I think so, big time.

0:34:530:34:55

Just set that aside now and get on with lamb number three.

0:34:550:34:59

And this one's the lamb adobe. It's a lovely, lovely loin. Look at that.

0:34:590:35:03

I'm going to merrily make blankets of stretched streaky bacon on the cling film.

0:35:030:35:10

Now, that rind that Dave took off the bacon, I'm going to put in a frying pan.

0:35:100:35:16

That's a beautiful fresh mushroom. Then we've got some oysters.

0:35:160:35:21

We're gonna blitz this in a blender to make a paste.

0:35:210:35:24

That's the blanket. I'll make another now.

0:35:240:35:27

Put some butter in the pan.

0:35:270:35:30

And then I'm just going to remove these pieces of bacon rind.

0:35:300:35:35

Then I'm going to put these mushrooms in and just saute them off.

0:35:380:35:43

This fine Welsh bacon's good.

0:35:430:35:46

And so many people don't use streaky bacon.

0:35:460:35:49

Now, these are sometimes known as porcini, chop those.

0:35:490:35:54

Again, we're gonna blitz it.

0:35:540:35:56

This is also a trio of mushrooms as well as a trio of lamb.

0:35:560:36:00

They've just started to colour. That's when you take them out.

0:36:000:36:05

To that we're going to add an onion. Lovely! A teaspoon of parsley.

0:36:050:36:10

Some lovely sprigs of rosemary.

0:36:100:36:14

Three cloves of garlic.

0:36:140:36:18

A tablespoon of red wine vinegar.

0:36:180:36:21

We're gonna temper that vinegar with some sugar. And this is about a teaspoon really.

0:36:210:36:27

I'm gonna blitz it to a paste.

0:36:270:36:29

-That's rubbish.

-It's not very good this, is it?

0:36:310:36:36

-It's as much use as a chocolate fireguard!

-Put it in this.

-Let's do that. We'll get that in there.

0:36:360:36:42

Oh yes! Lovely.

0:36:440:36:49

-It's got a lovely colour from the herbs.

-It has, hasn't it?

0:36:490:36:53

In the blender we've got celeriac juice, artichoke and potato.

0:36:530:36:58

Bit of cream and I'm firing it to a puree.

0:36:580:37:01

-We want this very fine because it's going to be piped.

-Piped, you see.

0:37:010:37:06

Look at that.

0:37:080:37:11

That looks fab, it really does.

0:37:110:37:13

That's a puree.

0:37:130:37:15

I want some butter in there.

0:37:150:37:17

Salt and pepper.

0:37:180:37:20

-Do you know what would be nice? White pepper.

-Yeah.

0:37:220:37:28

I'll put that to keep warm here.

0:37:280:37:32

I'm gonna just lay a little platform for the adobe.

0:37:320:37:38

-Then we smear over the top.

-Do you never seal your lamb before that?

0:37:380:37:42

No, cos we want the flavour to come through.

0:37:420:37:45

Top trick this - take the cling film like that and just roll it nice and tightly.

0:37:450:37:52

Pull the cling film away, Bob's your uncle!

0:37:520:37:56

-Nice one!

-There we are.

0:37:560:37:59

-Nice one.

-Thank you.

0:37:590:38:01

We put this in an oven, 180 degrees, for half an hour. Let's get it in.

0:38:010:38:06

Now, the shoulder of lamb, number one. Look at this.

0:38:060:38:09

What I wanna do though is give Kingy the pan in which to de-glaze and make a nice jus.

0:38:090:38:17

Look at that! You see this layer of fat here? What you do is you just pour it off.

0:38:170:38:22

Look at that.

0:38:220:38:24

-Give us a go!

-That's gorgeous.

0:38:270:38:29

We've won! Hey hey!

0:38:290:38:32

You want grease inside of your ring.

0:38:320:38:34

You need some cling film on the bottom of the ring like so.

0:38:340:38:38

We're gonna pack that with the meat, on the side of the plate with a jus.

0:38:380:38:44

Now Dave, have a little nap at that.

0:38:440:38:47

Oh, there's loads of salt!

0:38:470:38:49

There is loads. It's very salty.

0:38:490:38:51

-I'm gonna put more port in it.

-You could take a separate pan,

0:38:510:38:55

reduce your port to take the alcohol off,

0:38:550:38:58

and add little bits of that to it so you get it to the right level.

0:38:580:39:02

-And then just finish it off with some butter.

-With some butter.

0:39:020:39:07

Ten minutes into the cooking time for the adobe, it's time for the racks to go in.

0:39:070:39:12

Thank you, chef. Puree's done.

0:39:120:39:15

Confits are done.

0:39:150:39:17

-Chef, could you pop those in a steam oven for five minutes to warm through?

-OK.

0:39:170:39:22

Time to finely chop the kale. Put in water with butter.

0:39:220:39:26

-Oh, look at that!

-Oh, those look gorgeous.

0:39:260:39:29

Right, let's just see. We want pink.

0:39:290:39:33

That's perfect.

0:39:330:39:34

That means the racks are cooked too.

0:39:340:39:37

-Ho ho!

-Look at them!

-Lovely.

0:39:370:39:42

OK, so the pea has to come off.

0:39:420:39:45

-You cut the meat and I'll start plating?

-Lovely. Fabulous. Mr Myers!

0:39:460:39:51

God, that comes in useful, doesn't it?

0:39:510:39:56

-Look at that. That's a corker.

-It's one cutlet, Kingy.

-Yeah.

0:39:580:40:03

-Is that carving nice?

-Yes.

0:40:050:40:08

Where are you taking this?

0:40:120:40:14

-Perfect. There we have it.

-The Hairy Bikers' trio of Welsh lamb for Gwynedd.

0:40:160:40:22

We have a Welsh lamb adobe with fine Welsh mushrooms.

0:40:220:40:25

We have a herb-crusted rack of lamb, French trimmed.

0:40:250:40:29

And a comfit of Welsh shoulder of lamb.

0:40:290:40:31

All served on a three-root mash and kale and butter.

0:40:310:40:36

Usually we start at the bottom with the veggies.

0:40:380:40:41

Mm, that's gorgeous. This is the adobe.

0:40:410:40:45

Oh, this is gorgeous!

0:40:450:40:47

I've got this comfit. Look at this...

0:40:470:40:50

This is probably a meal on its own. It's fabulous, isn't it?

0:40:500:40:54

Go on, go on!

0:40:540:40:57

-That should be like butter when you bite into it.

-Fabulous.

0:41:000:41:04

This might need cooking a little bit more.

0:41:040:41:07

To be honest guys, I would pay for that dish.

0:41:070:41:09

It's crunch time. The diners will taste both dishes but without any idea who cooked which.

0:41:090:41:15

First up is Peter's trio of wild duck.

0:41:150:41:18

-Oh yes.

-I never eat duck that rare.

0:41:180:41:22

-And it was very, very tasty. Very tender.

-The presentation was excellent.

0:41:220:41:28

If you took a bit of everything on the plate, it went together really well.

0:41:280:41:33

I also liked the jelly.

0:41:330:41:35

Almost reminded me of an old fashioned farmhouse brawn in texture.

0:41:350:41:40

But being hot, it was most unusual.

0:41:400:41:44

I enjoy duck.

0:41:440:41:46

That was tasty, but it was a little bit tough.

0:41:460:41:49

They seemed to like that.

0:41:490:41:51

Now it's our turn. Fingers crossed.

0:41:510:41:54

-That's nice.

-Very nice.

0:41:580:42:01

-Full of flavour.

-It was very well cooked.

0:42:010:42:04

Tender, especially the rack of lamb.

0:42:040:42:07

Only one thing I could say about it was excellent.

0:42:070:42:12

The flavours were just melt in the mouth.

0:42:120:42:17

The kale complemented the crust on the rack of lamb.

0:42:170:42:21

The mash that went with the loin was absolutely fantastic.

0:42:210:42:25

So all in all,

0:42:250:42:27

I can't fault it.

0:42:270:42:29

Thank you for the hospitality we've had from the people in Gwynedd.

0:42:340:42:38

We found great produce, great people and we've had a great time.

0:42:380:42:42

So, what actually you're voting on is the representation of local ingredients,

0:42:420:42:48

which is fantastic in Gwynedd.

0:42:480:42:50

What we would like you to do is do a show of hands for the duck, please.

0:42:500:42:56

For the lamb, please, can I have a show of hands.

0:43:000:43:03

The duck dish was Peter's and the lamb dish was ours so, a big round of applause for everybody, I think.

0:43:040:43:10

It was so funny watching these two cooking and their cheffy lingo!

0:43:100:43:15

-We just learnt it.

-We gotta use it! We're getting better each week at it!

0:43:150:43:20

-It was great fun. They had me in stitches.

-We learned a lot.

0:43:200:43:23

'Amazing, we've won, Dave!'

0:43:230:43:25

'I know, Kingy, I'm so chuffed. And Peter's a great chef.'

0:43:250:43:29

Gwynedd had so much to offer us. The tastiest produce from a truly fantastic landscape.

0:43:290:43:35

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:470:43:52

E-mail [email protected]

0:43:520:43:57

Series which follows the Hairy Bikers as they visit a different British county in every episode, sampling the best of local ingredients and meeting the people keeping culinary traditions alive. Si King and Dave Myers explore Gwynedd, where they cook a traditional county favourite in Portmeirion. They visit a mountain lamb farmer and meet a man growing exotic mushrooms in shipping containers.

Finally, they face a cook-off against top chef Peter Jackson. Restaurant diners decide whose dish best defines the taste of Gwynedd in a blind tasting.


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