Food for Friends Tom Kerridge's Proper Pub Food


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Transcript


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Portion of chips, pork is a la carte.

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I'm Tom Kerridge.

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HE GUFFAWS

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I run the only pub in the UK with two Michelin stars.

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Lamb in, please!

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And one lamb out.

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The great British pub.

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This is what we Brits do best.

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Set lunch coming, yeah?

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And I want to show you how to cook pub classics

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in your own home.

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There we go!

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Lovely!

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I'm all about simplicity.

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Solid, strong flavours.

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You shouldn't complicate food.

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You should just keep it nice and simple.

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It's about good food...

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prepared with a little bit of extra love and attention

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to share with family and friends.

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This is my pub food...done properly.

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Right then, boys and girls!

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In this episode, I'm doing dishes that are great

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for when your mates come over.

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The more love you give it,

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the more fantastic it's going to be.

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I'm making a delicious chorizo and pollack one-pot wonder.

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It's almost too good to share.

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It's amazing!

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Right tasty dishes for everyone to dig into,

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like my mussels in ale.

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Proper grub, innit?

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-More!

-More!

-More!

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Some fantastic beer food -

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salt-beef bagels with the ultimate pickle.

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This is going to be the best sandwich ever.

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And a plum fool dessert that's proper ace.

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It comes to me and there's none left!

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But first up,

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my go-to dish for when friends come over...

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Slow-cooked lamb - it's ideal

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for when you know you've got mates coming round.

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You can just whack it in the oven and disappear for a few laughs.

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I'm using shoulder of lamb.

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It's ideal for slow-cooking.

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I've peeled two heads of garlic,

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and all I'm going to do is put some big pierce marks into my lamb,

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stick the clove of garlic - whole -

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all the way in.

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The garlic melts into the lamb

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and all the flavour kind of emulsifies together

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to make a beautiful, but very simple, rich dish.

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It's very important to get the garlic as far in as possible.

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That way, it won't burn during cooking.

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Last piece of garlic in, then I'm on to my potatoes.

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I'm going to serve my slow-cooked lamb

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with pommes boulangeres,

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or translated, baker's potatoes.

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And it's called pommes boulangeres

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because every town or village in France would have a baker,

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and when they turned the ovens off, the good women of the villages

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would take their sliced potatoes and onions and thyme

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with a piece of meat on the top

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and stick it in the ovens and cook it in the residual heat.

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Hence...baker's potatoes.

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Next, slice the onions up and pick some thyme,

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which is a brilliant, hardy herb and great for slow cooking.

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I'm going to use a mandoline to get the potatoes really thin.

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You can use a knife if you've got really mad skills.

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If you do it on a mandoline, just mind your fingers.

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I've been involved in many an accident with one of these!

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I'm laughing now.

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At the time, it hurt a lot.

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Grab a large roasting tray and layer the onions.

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Loads of thyme

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and potatoes.

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Then season and repeat the process until it reaches the top.

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Onion, thyme,

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potatoes, salt and pepper...

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Onion, thyme, potatoes, salt and pepper.

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And on and on and on and on.

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The beauty of this is it's all in one tray.

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It's a one-dish wonder.

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Loads of flavour.

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Very little washing up.

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Pommes boulangeres is ready.

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Time for the lamb to go on the top.

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Two or three ladles of this good-quality stock...

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..to just help to start the cooking,

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keep the potatoes moist at the beginning, not let them burn.

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My stock looks thick because it's home-made.

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The gelatine from the bones gives it a jelly-like consistency.

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And then that is how easy this is.

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It goes into the oven now four, five hours.

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Give you a chance to go and walk the dogs,

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come back and your tea's ready.

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Look at that bad boy!

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That just looks amazing.

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You know the best thing about it?

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It's completely no-bother cooking.

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This is absolutely stunning.

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The meat just falls apart from the bone.

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Look at that - it's amazing!

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Nothing could be better.

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And that, my friends, is a proper bowl of delight.

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As a publican, you've got to know your beers.

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And this country produces some outstanding ales.

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I enjoy a pint or two,

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but I also love to cook with it.

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Beer can give you such a huge depth of flavour.

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But you have to choose the right ale.

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So today I'm off to my local brewery,

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to find the right ale for a mussel dish I'll be making.

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And chief brewer Mark is giving me a private tasting session.

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Well, Tom, I suggest you start with this one,

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which is a light summer beer.

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The types of barley, hops and malt

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have a big part to play in producing different flavours.

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Pale ales like this are made using pale malts.

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-That's delicious.

-Yeah. Very, very light and refreshing for summer.

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Yeah, summer drinking beer, but maybe not so good for cooking with.

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For my mussels, I'm looking for something much richer.

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That has some dark chocolate, roasted malts in.

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-It's got a really quite coffee character to it.

-Wow!

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And this is roasted at a high temperature, and as you can taste,

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it's burnt.

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Yeah, that's fantastic.

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Very malty, very rich.

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If you imagine beautiful salty shellfish,

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then something coming through with the bitter flavours of a stout...

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This is going to suit me much better.

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Fingers crossed it works and everyone likes it!

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Tonight the brewery are holding one of their regular barbecue nights.

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I've promised to knock up a delicious dish

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to help feed the hungry punters,

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so I'd better get cracking.

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I'm going to be cooking my version of moules marinieres -

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a great French classic, but with our British twist.

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I'm going to get rid of the wine and we'll use some of that amazing ale.

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First job - dicing vegetables.

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My mussels in ale are a proper treat.

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They're ideal for special occasions,

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because they're so quick and easy to knock up

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when you have crowds of starving people.

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Especially wet starving people!

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For a sweet base, sweat finely chopped banana shallots,

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nutty celeriac and carrots in a little butter.

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Tear in a few bay leaves so they release their lovely oils.

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To be 100% honest with you,

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I don't think I've ever cooked in such mayhem.

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I'm in a brewery and I can't resist it.

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Some of these wonderful, amazing hops.

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We're going to pour into this.

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We're going to make a hop teabag.

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It might look odd,

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but by putting hops into a cloth,

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I'm creating my own infuser.

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It's something I've never tried before,

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but experimenting is what cooking's all about.

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Drop it into the soft vegetables.

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Then for the magic ingredient.

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We're going to add some of this lovely dark ale.

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We're going to let it come up to the boil.

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It'll take three to four minutes.

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OK, the next job. Very, very hot pan.

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Into that, we're going to pour the mussels.

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Then on top of that, we're going to pour the beer stock.

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Give them a good shake.

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Leave them to cook.

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You're just in time, chief.

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Have a little taste of one of those.

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That's it. Cooked, tasty.

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Absolutely brilliant. Thank you very much indeed.

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To finish off, I'm draining the mussels.

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And a good dollop of rich creme fraiche

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into the drained cooking liquor adds a fantastic sharpness to the dish.

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Going to add some chopped tarragon,

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chopped chervil

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and some chopped parsley.

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All of the herbs go in last minute so they keep their colour.

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Then we'll add the mussels back to the liquor.

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Mussels are perfect for a big party,

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whether it's a family do or even a mate's birthday you're cooking for.

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They'll feed a bunch of people quickly and easily.

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Come on, get in there! Proper portion.

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I need a proper portion as well!

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You're a growing boy, I can see!

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I've been sent by my husband,

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-so I need a proper portion.

-Is your husband too shy?

-Yeah!

-Where is he?

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You ain't getting a bowl unless you come and get it yourself, chief!

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You can be shy all you like.

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There you go.

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Proper grub, innit?

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-More!

-More!

-More!

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If you're feeding a crowd,

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one-pot, hearty-style casseroles are always a winner.

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My next dish will not only save on washing-up,

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it's also a taste sensation.

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There's a pub in north Norfolk with a fantastic chef,

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and one of his best dishes was a salt cod dish

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with chickpeas and chorizo.

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This is my version,

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just using pollack instead of cod.

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Pollack is a member of the cod family,

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but it's sustainable and it is very good value for money.

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Before I cook white fish, I like to salt it

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to draw out moisture and firm up the flesh.

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So I'm going to use a good pinch of saffron.

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A little bit of saffron goes a long, long way.

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Apparently saffron, in weight, is more expensive than gold.

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I'm going to mix that with good-quality salt.

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Then on a layer of clingfilm...

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I'm going to sprinkle the salt and saffron mix

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and place the fish fillet on top.

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The remainder of the salt goes on top.

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Then I'm just going to wrap the fish in the clingfilm.

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The fish will simply sit in the fridge for about two hours

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and cure, while taking on the incredible saffron flavour.

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On to the chickpea stew.

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Couple of onions.

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I'm going to finely dice.

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I've got a right sniffly face!

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Look at me eyes!

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Apparently real men don't cry or eat quiche.

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I like quiche.

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Next, two cloves of garlic.

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I prefer to grate it, because the cloves release more oil and flavour.

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Then some finely chopped chilli, seeds in for the extra heat.

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All of this gets cooked in a little olive oil to soften up,

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ready for the chorizo.

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There's so many different types of chorizo sausage.

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You can get the dry-cured ones,

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or ones like these - these are perfect for cooking.

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I'm just going to gently cook it out

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and let all those chorizo fats begin to render down.

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This is the perfect point to add another layer of flavour,

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this time with spice -

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cumin, cinnamon and smoked paprika

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all work wonderfully with this dish.

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And bay leaves, which are a store cupboard essential.

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There's a real pungent smell coming from this pan.

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The flavours are really strong and powerful.

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Now for the lovely nutty chickpeas.

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These chickpeas have already been soaked overnight and cooked.

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And they're just at that point where they give

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under a little bit of pressure.

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I know that feeling!

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Canned chickpeas will also do the job.

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There's loads of lovely little caramelised bits.

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Loads and loads of flavour beginning to stick to the pan.

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Next to go in are some chopped tomatoes,

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good-quality chicken stock,

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then bring it to the boil.

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Then I'm going to stick the whole pan, without a lid,

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into a medium oven for about 45 minutes.

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If the lid's off, the stew will reduce down

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and the flavour will get more intense.

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OK, my pollack has been curing for about an hour and a half

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and the fish, I can feel already, is beginning to firm up.

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It's dead important to wash the fish for a good few minutes

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to remove the salt,

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leaving behind the amazing colour and taste from the saffron.

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The chorizo stew is fantastic.

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Bubbling away.

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Just going to stick this on top of the chorizo and chickpeas.

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It's going to go back into the medium oven

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for about ten minutes.

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I could happily eat this now,

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but you should add a bit of green.

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A few handfuls of spinach will wilt down nicely.

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Look at that - it's amazing!

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A beautiful, sweet, spicy, robust stew.

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Put that down in the middle of the table,

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everyone will be happy.

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This, my friends, is so good...

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it's almost too good to share.

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The best thing about being a chef

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is finding new places that serve great food.

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And I'm here at Maltby Street Food Market

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to find Mark, who I've heard does the best salt beef around.

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I'm going to go find him.

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Cooking for friends isn't just about making sit-down meals.

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It can be grab-and-go food

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and this market is great for inspiration.

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These look amazing. Do you make them all yourselves?

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Can I get a pistachio one and a chocolate?

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-Thank you very much!

-You're welcome.

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How you doing? You all right?

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Hello there, chief. You must be Mark.

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-Nice to meet you.

-You all right?

-Very good, thanks.

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-I've got a box of cakes. I'll put them down there.

-You shouldn't have!

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-Monty's?

-Yeah, this is called Monty's after my grandfather.

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-Right.

-Grandpa Monty. He was what's known as a nosher,

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which is somebody who loves to eat

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lots of unhealthy but lovely, delicious food.

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That then makes me a nosher!

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-Yeah. We're all noshers.

-All noshers.

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Mark's preparing for the lunchtime rush.

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In only six hours on a Saturday,

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he can get through 45 kilos of salt beef and pastrami.

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So I'm keen to find out what his secret is.

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It's all in here. So I've got salt beef

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and pastrami,

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which I make from scratch.

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This is a real labour of love for Mark.

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He begins the process for both meats by submerging beef brisket

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in a brine solution for five days.

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This is the key to amazing salt beef and pastrami.

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So I'd love to get his recipe.

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So, Mark, what's in your brine mix?

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Well, obviously, it's a secret recipe,

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but, um...

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the basic principle is

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a ratio of curing salt, pickling spices, things like that,

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and a few extra little secret ingredients

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that give it that Monty's Deli flavour.

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Tough luck for me.

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The family recipe is staying under wraps.

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The pastrami is smoked for about six hours

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and the salt beef is simmered up in water with its own spices

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for several hours.

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The whole thing takes me about a week to get everything ready.

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I can't wait to try some of this, chief.

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-Why don't you knock us up a sandwich?

-I'd love to.

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This bad-boy sandwich consists of mountains of pastrami

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and that incredible-looking salt beef...

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..Russian dressing, mustard,

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sauerkraut and cheese.

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That is the size of the sandwich!

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This is the moment of truth.

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All finished off in the jaws of a mean toasting machine.

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Oh, my God!

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What I like to do sometimes is get a customer to stand there

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and I take a picture of their face just the other side of the sandwich!

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Let's do that!

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There we go.

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TOM CHUCKLES

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That is so good!

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Wow - look at that!

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That's a proper sandwich.

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There you go.

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That is so lush.

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My paper plate needs scaffolding to hold that up.

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That's lush!

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Oh, my God, that has to be the best value lunch in London, that.

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That is just incredible.

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What a brilliant way to spend a Saturday morning.

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And it takes all week for Mark to get to that point.

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Don't worry. I'm going to show you a cheat's version,

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and stick it in a bagel.

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You can pick up awesome salt beef

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in decent delis and specialist butchers.

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But what really makes this bagel lip-smacking and delicious

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is my freshly made vegetable pickle.

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I love pickling things.

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The flavour that you get from sugar and vinegar together,

0:19:120:19:15

it goes so well with vegetables.

0:19:150:19:17

I use this not for preserving foods

0:19:170:19:20

but to give it a real big zing of flavour.

0:19:200:19:22

My ultimate pickle mix cuts through fatty meats perfectly

0:19:220:19:27

and because it's ridiculously easy to make,

0:19:270:19:29

it should be a staple in everyone's fridge.

0:19:290:19:32

Into a pan, simply add 500g of caster sugar,

0:19:320:19:35

one cinnamon stick.

0:19:350:19:37

For warmth and aroma, a few cloves.

0:19:370:19:41

Two tablespoons of white peppercorns...

0:19:420:19:44

a tablespoon each of coriander and fennel seeds.

0:19:440:19:49

Then grab five star anise.

0:19:520:19:54

Next, a litre of white wine vinegar,

0:19:570:19:59

which gives a more mellow acidic finish to the pickle.

0:19:590:20:01

And finally, 250ml of water.

0:20:010:20:05

Let that bubble away for 15 minutes.

0:20:060:20:08

To finish, cover with clingfilm, to stop it evaporating.

0:20:090:20:13

You can use your lid, but I'm in the habit of using clingfilm,

0:20:130:20:17

because, to be honest, finding the right lid in a professional kitchen

0:20:170:20:20

is a nightmare.

0:20:200:20:22

Once my pickle mix has cooled down,

0:20:230:20:25

I decant it into a bottle

0:20:250:20:28

and then leave it in the fridge until needed.

0:20:280:20:30

This mix can be used to pickle almost anything.

0:20:300:20:33

I like to pickle Granny Smith apples,

0:20:330:20:36

which go fantastically with fish,

0:20:360:20:38

but today I'm pickling vegetables

0:20:380:20:40

to go inside my salt beef bagel.

0:20:400:20:42

Onions and carrots are right good for pickling.

0:20:460:20:49

They keep their crunch and will add fantastic texture to the sandwich.

0:20:490:20:53

You might not have seen this before, but if you've got a bit of time,

0:20:540:20:58

try rubbing the carrots down with a scourer

0:20:580:21:00

to give them a lovely smooth finish.

0:21:000:21:02

You don't have to do this at home,

0:21:020:21:04

but I am a professional chef

0:21:040:21:07

and sometimes I just can't help myself.

0:21:070:21:09

Cutting the carrots and onions into thick slices

0:21:090:21:12

will help them stay nice and crunchy.

0:21:120:21:14

Cucumber for me is one of the most fantastic vegetables.

0:21:140:21:17

As a pickle, it contains a beautiful freshness.

0:21:170:21:21

I'm also pickling mushrooms.

0:21:230:21:25

They add a wonderful soft and earthy contrast

0:21:250:21:27

to the crunchy veg.

0:21:270:21:29

I'm going to pour on my pickle mix.

0:21:310:21:34

Leave them to marinate for about two hours.

0:21:370:21:40

That way, the vegetables retain all of their freshness

0:21:400:21:42

and their beautiful flavour,

0:21:420:21:44

but it's also got a zing and a vibe that comes through.

0:21:440:21:47

While that pickles,

0:21:490:21:50

thickly slice some salt beef.

0:21:500:21:52

I've made my own, but to save time,

0:21:520:21:54

you can actually buy already brined brisket from some butchers.

0:21:540:21:58

Then just simmer it for five hours at home.

0:21:580:22:01

Salt beef is best served warm,

0:22:030:22:04

so gently heat it up in a little stock and butter.

0:22:040:22:07

The salt beef has been in the pan for about a minute or two.

0:22:120:22:15

It's looking absolutely stunning.

0:22:150:22:17

Like with everything in cooking,

0:22:170:22:20

the more love you give it,

0:22:200:22:22

the more you treat it with respect,

0:22:220:22:24

the more fantastic it's going to be.

0:22:240:22:26

For a spicy kick,

0:22:330:22:34

thickly spread peppered cream cheese on the bagel

0:22:340:22:37

and layer up with the warm salt beef.

0:22:370:22:39

And then the secret weapon -

0:22:390:22:41

a good helping of the zingy, freshly pickled veg.

0:22:410:22:44

And finally, some dill really sets this sandwich off.

0:22:440:22:48

The lid on.

0:22:480:22:50

That for me is one super, great sandwich.

0:22:520:22:55

Imagine having a stack of those,

0:22:550:22:57

your mates over, watching the football...

0:22:570:23:00

Or on your own, and having just the one.

0:23:010:23:03

Or two.

0:23:050:23:06

When friends come over,

0:23:180:23:19

it's the best thing if you can bring out a home-made pud.

0:23:190:23:22

My final recipe is a twist on a British classic -

0:23:250:23:28

a delicious fruit fool.

0:23:280:23:30

It's a bit of a laugh

0:23:300:23:32

and guaranteed to impress your mates.

0:23:320:23:34

This is my version of that instant whipped dessert

0:23:400:23:43

I used to have as a kid,

0:23:430:23:45

but I'm making it with plums.

0:23:450:23:47

The recipe is dead simple

0:23:480:23:50

and consists of just two elements -

0:23:500:23:52

creamy custard and a plum puree.

0:23:520:23:54

I'm starting with a delicious sweet base to stew my plums in.

0:23:560:23:59

Simply melt butter and sugar in a pan,

0:23:590:24:01

together with cinnamon sticks and the juice of one lemon.

0:24:010:24:05

While that cooks down, I'll prep me plums.

0:24:090:24:12

Just going to cut them in half.

0:24:120:24:14

Give them a twist, take out the stone.

0:24:160:24:18

This is a fantastic recipe

0:24:180:24:20

to use up those stubborn stoned fruits that will never ripen.

0:24:200:24:24

They'll stew down nicely

0:24:240:24:26

and end up lovely and soft.

0:24:260:24:27

So I'm using plums for this fool,

0:24:270:24:29

but you can use whatever's in season -

0:24:290:24:31

apples or pears.

0:24:310:24:33

Rhubarb's fantastic.

0:24:330:24:34

I've cut my plums in half

0:24:340:24:36

and I'm going to stick them into my butter mix.

0:24:360:24:38

Whilst my plums stew,

0:24:410:24:43

I'm going to show you how to make proper delicious custard.

0:24:430:24:46

You might think it's tricky to make,

0:24:460:24:48

but it's dead easy.

0:24:480:24:50

You just have to be patient.

0:24:500:24:52

First, pour equal measures of milk and cream into a jug.

0:24:540:24:57

I always use double cream,

0:24:580:25:00

because it makes the custard extra rich

0:25:000:25:02

and gives it a decadent edge.

0:25:020:25:04

Bring that to the boil,

0:25:060:25:07

and while it heats up, mix six egg yolks

0:25:070:25:10

and a little caster sugar together.

0:25:100:25:12

The eggs will make the custard thicken.

0:25:120:25:15

I don't really like the custard to be too sweet for my fruit fools.

0:25:150:25:18

I like the natural sugars and the flavour from the fruit

0:25:180:25:22

to shine through.

0:25:220:25:23

Combine your egg mix with the simmering milk and cream

0:25:230:25:27

and get it all on the heat to thicken up.

0:25:270:25:29

Now watch it closely.

0:25:290:25:32

You need to make sure you stand here stirring all the time.

0:25:320:25:35

You leave it too long, it'll catch on the bottom

0:25:350:25:38

and you'll end up with scrambled eggs.

0:25:380:25:40

And that's definitely not what you're looking for.

0:25:400:25:42

It'll also scramble if you let it boil,

0:25:420:25:45

so just gently heat it up.

0:25:450:25:46

OK, we're at the point

0:25:460:25:49

where it just coats the back of a spoon.

0:25:490:25:51

At this stage the custard is ready,

0:25:520:25:54

and you need to stop it cooking,

0:25:540:25:56

so you want to cool it down as quickly as possible.

0:25:560:25:59

A brilliant way to do this

0:25:590:26:00

is by pouring it directly over clean freezer blocks.

0:26:000:26:04

You might not have seen this before, but trust me, it works.

0:26:050:26:08

You can infuse the custard with all sorts,

0:26:100:26:12

like brandy, rum or vanilla.

0:26:120:26:14

Be creative, and the results can be lush.

0:26:140:26:17

While the custard cools, my plums have broken right down.

0:26:200:26:24

They're nice and soft and perfect for pureeing.

0:26:240:26:26

Just blend until smooth.

0:26:260:26:28

Pushing the blended plums through a sieve

0:26:310:26:34

will get rid of any lumps and bumps,

0:26:340:26:35

giving you a wonderful, super, silky-smooth puree.

0:26:350:26:39

A layer of clingfilm.

0:26:390:26:41

That'll stop it getting a skin.

0:26:420:26:44

And then these are ready to go into the fridge until your guests arrive.

0:26:440:26:49

When it comes to serving-up time,

0:26:540:26:56

there's hardly anything left to do.

0:26:560:26:58

You want to get yourself one of these bad boys -

0:26:580:27:00

it's a cream whipper.

0:27:000:27:02

What it does is aerate custards or creams

0:27:020:27:04

and you can get them on the internet for about £30.

0:27:040:27:07

Fold the puree and the custard together.

0:27:080:27:10

Then you're ready to load the gun.

0:27:100:27:12

Lid goes on.

0:27:140:27:16

Got to make sure it's nice and tight.

0:27:160:27:18

Left-over little bit of plum puree...

0:27:180:27:20

Going to pop into my glasses.

0:27:200:27:22

I'm having mine in a beer glass.

0:27:240:27:26

Right then, boys and girls!

0:27:270:27:29

There you go. Who's first?

0:27:290:27:31

Go careful!

0:27:320:27:34

Go careful as you do it. Nice and gently.

0:27:340:27:36

And then just gently squirt it.

0:27:360:27:38

CHEERING

0:27:400:27:42

For a little kick, crushed pink peppercorns go so well with plums.

0:27:430:27:47

Keep going!

0:27:470:27:49

This is what cooking for friends is all about -

0:27:510:27:54

good times, tucking into simple but delicious food.

0:27:540:27:58

Look at that - it comes to me and there's none left!

0:27:580:28:01

HE CHORTLES HEARTILY

0:28:010:28:03

Next time, I'll be cooking up some finger-licking food

0:28:060:28:09

perfect for eating outdoors.

0:28:090:28:11

From my smoky sweet barbecued beef ribs...

0:28:140:28:18

Possibly one of the most delicious bits of beef ever.

0:28:180:28:20

..to my fishy twist on a classic burger.

0:28:200:28:23

That's the best burger I've ever had.

0:28:230:28:25

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