Celebratory Food Tom Kerridge's Proper Pub Food


Celebratory Food

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-A portion of chips. The pork is a la carte.

-Thank you.

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I'm Tom Kerridge.

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I run the only pub in the UK with two Michelin stars.

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-Lamb in, please, Ant.

-OK.

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How long on lamb, Ant?

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The great British pub. This is what we Brits do best.

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Keep it coming, yeah?

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And I want to show you how to cook pub classics in your own home.

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There we go.

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Lovely!

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I'm all about simplicity.

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Solid, strong flavours.

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You shouldn't complicate food. You should just keep it nice and simple.

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It's about good food, prepared with a little bit of extra love and attention

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to share with family and friends.

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This is my pub food done properly.

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-Chin-chin.

-That was a good day.

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In this episode, I'm going all-out and making extra special dishes

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that are spot-on for any celebration.

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If you serve this to your family and friends,

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they're going to be in for a right treat.

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I'm cooking up one of my ultimate roasts - delicious crispy duck.

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Absolutely fantastic.

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Real decadent treats, like deep-fried oysters.

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This is oysters for beginners, this.

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A dish perfect for a special night in -

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spiced monkfish with an awesome aubergine puree.

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And that, boys and girls, is how to treat

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your other half - and yourself - properly.

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All of that, topped off with a dead-easy dessert,

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my boozy gin and tonic granita.

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It's an amazing way to book-end a meal.

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But first, an excellent starter that's quick and simple to whip up

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and has a special secret weapon - my fantastic duck egg dressing.

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I, like every chef, love using asparagus.

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It's got a wonderful, elegant flavour.

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I'm starting by peeling the asparagus

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because it gets rid of that sometimes harsh, bitter taste you can get from the skin.

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Also, it's a bit cheffy and looks nice, too.

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A little tip for peeling asparagus is using an upturned bowl

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to rest the asparagus on.

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That way you've got less chance of snapping the stalk.

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Next, remove the woody ends, so you're left with the lovely, sweet stalks.

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Normally with asparagus, a lot of people will cook it, boiling it in water

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or steaming it.

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I'm going to do it with some butter and some water.

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The benefit of cooking asparagus this way is

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that there's so little water in the pan

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that the asparagus water actually comes out.

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It cooks itself almost in its own juices.

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Let them cook for two to three minutes.

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Traditionally, you'd serve asparagus with hollandaise

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but I'm going to make my ultimate salad dressing

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with duck eggs through it.

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This dressing is like a mix of hollandaise, salad cream and mayonnaise,

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all rolled into one.

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It's proper lush, smothered over ham salad or smoked fish

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and it'll work perfectly with the beautiful freshness of the asparagus.

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Start by separating four duck egg yolks into a bowl.

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Duck eggs are brilliant for special occasions.

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Their yolks are much richer than hen's,

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producing a creamier, more luxurious taste.

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Next add in 50ml of water and 100ml of white wine vinegar.

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A quarter teaspoon of smoked paprika gives a sweet, smoky edge to the dressing

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and a teaspoon of mustard powder adds a little kick.

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Then in with a teaspoon of sugar and season with a pinch of salt.

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Place the bowl over boiling water and whisk.

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When the eggs are cooked and it's nicely thickened,

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pour in 100ml of double cream

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and finely grate two hard-boiled duck eggs into the bowl.

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This gives the dressing fantastic texture.

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Two tablespoons of chopped capers gives the dressing tartness

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and also cuts through the richness of the eggs and cream.

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For a lush, fresh finish to my salad dressing,

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I'm adding in chopped parsley.

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When the asparagus is just soft to the touch you know it's cooked.

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Take a few spears out, place them on your plate,

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dress the dish with my ultimate salad dressing.

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And that's a simple, elegant starter with a rich, creamy dressing

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for that little bit of indulgence.

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When it comes to celebrations, it's the perfect time to go all-out

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and try something new.

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If you've never roasted a whole duck before, give it a go.

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Not only is it ideal for a special occasion, it's dead simple.

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Duck for me is one of the most fantastic meats.

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It can take so much flavour and it's perfect for slow-roasting.

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I'm just going to remove the wings

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and then any of the excess from the bottom, here.

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Your butcher can also do this for you

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and by cutting off this section, it helps to remove fat from the cavity,

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which reduces the amount of unwanted fat during cooking.

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I'm going to put a few little pierce marks in the skin,

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just so that when I slow-roast it, the fat begins to render out

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and can easily escape.

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I'm now going to give this duck a little bit of an Asian twist

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using some Szechuan pepper.

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This tastes nothing like pepper.

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It's actually dried ash plant berries.

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Loads of beautiful smells and aromas coming into the room.

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It's floral and lemony and creates an awesome tingling sensation in the mouth.

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And I'm going to rub it onto my duck.

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Now I'm going to put this into an oven at about 200 degrees centigrade

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for 20 to 25 minutes.

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That'll get the skin nice, crispy and golden.

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Then after that 25 minutes, turn the oven down to 120 degrees

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and the duck will continue to cook for about 2.5 hours

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until tender and lush.

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But every 20 minutes, it's important to baste the duck in its own juices.

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Just regenerate flavour.

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Everything that's being dripped out of the duck

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is then being kind of fed back onto it.

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Back into the oven and then we'll do the same process again

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and again until the duck is beautifully cooked.

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As I'm roasting a duck, it would be rude not to make pancakes.

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Mine are dead easy, lovely and fluffy

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and because they're made with potato,

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they're more substantial for a main.

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Now, this mash has been made with baked potatoes

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rather than boiled.

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That way, it hasn't taken on too much moisture.

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To that I'm adding 75g of plain flour and a teaspoon of baking powder.

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175ml of milk and two eggs bring this batter together.

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Now it's important to gently combine the mix.

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I'm not going to work it too much,

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just in case the glutens in the flour go too tight

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and I end up with really tough little pancakes.

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There's a few little lumps and bumps in it but that's OK.

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Now let the batter sit for about an hour,

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so the glutens have a chance to chillaxo-relaxo.

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And don't forget to keep basting your duck.

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To cook the pancakes, start with a little drizzle of vegetable oil

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in a non-stick pan.

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I'm just going to gently put about a spoon per pancake.

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You can see they're ready to flip over when all the air bubbles start to pop.

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These will now sit happily in a low oven until serving time.

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So my duck's been in about two and a half hours.

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It's time to take a look.

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HE CHUCKLES

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Absolutely fantastic.

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You can see the skin's nice and crispy.

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Simply remove the roasting rack and drain away the fat.

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Just leaving a little coating on the bottom of the pan.

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To finish this, we're going to pour some of this beautiful clear runny honey over the top of the duck.

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This will create a wonderful sticky glaze.

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Then it goes back into the oven at a slightly higher temperature

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for about five minutes.

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Then we're going to baste it and we're going to repeat this process

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four or five times, just until the honey is caramelised.

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I know it's a lot of effort but I promise it will be worth it.

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The duck's been in the oven for about 15 minutes.

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I'm just going to give it a good splash of soy sauce.

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And then a wonderful baste.

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I'm just going to leave it to rest now for about 20 minutes.

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To finish, I'm going to serve my duck and pancakes with a helping of greens

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and braised Little Gem lettuces do the job perfectly.

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Lettuce is much more than a salad item.

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If you think of it as a vegetable, you get a lot more use out of them.

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Just heat up a little stock and butter in a pan,

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add in some lemon peel and some thyme leaves

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and cook the halved Little Gems core-side down.

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So that's the bit you're looking at cooking and softening.

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I'm not really a salad kind of guy.

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So the best way of serving lettuce for me

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is cooking it in stock and butter.

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Braised lettuce tastes wonderful and fresh

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and literally takes minutes to cook.

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I'm going to pop that onto the plate.

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For me, that is the perfect way of serving a roast duck.

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If you serve this to your family and friends as a meal,

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they're going to be in for a right treat.

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Cooking with the best ingredients is a proper way to treat yourself.

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-Hello, there, chief.

-Hello, there.

-How are you?

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-Could I get 12 of your finest rock oyster, please?

-Certainly.

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Oysters are one of those ingredients that really make a celebration feel momentous

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and here in Whitstable there's a truckload of them.

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Served raw, they might not be everyone's cup of tea

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but I'm going to be deep-frying these bad boys in a delicious batter

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and serving them with something special.

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Knock, knock.

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-Oi.

-Steve, how are you doing?

-Hello, Tom.

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-Are you all right?

-Yeah, yeah.

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So I've come to see my mate Steve Harris,

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who owns the outstanding Sportsman pub.

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He's famed for his use of local seaweed in his dishes

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and today, that's what I'm after for my oysters,

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so we're heading straight to the beach to fill up.

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Right, so we use this stuff, which is fresh - it's actually growing here.

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-And it's called gutweed. Nice name.

-Gutweed.

-Yeah.

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Look, if you smell that, you get that lovely kind of sea...

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They call it ozone. It's very salty.

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But can you get instantly that...?

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-Oh, it's amazing.

-Isn't it amazing?

-Yeah, it's beautiful.

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What blew my mind - this has been on the beach for hundreds of years

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and it's never become part of English cookery.

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And I had to go to Japan and come back here and realise,

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-"My God, it's all over my beach."

-It's right here on your doorstep.

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Right, then, Steve, I think this is perfect for some seaweed mayonnaise

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-and some oyster fritters.

-Lovely.

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-There's loads of it!

-THEY LAUGH

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There's loads of it!

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Whilst Steve lends a hand prepping those awesome oysters,

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I'm starting on the magic ingredient for my mayonnaise.

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I'm just going to squeeze out this gutweed.

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-Do you want these just opened in here?

-Just opened into there.

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And we can keep the juice as well, if you like.

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To make mayo, into the seaweed I'm adding two yolks,

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a squeeze of wasabi and a splash of rice wine vinegar.

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So this is that kind of Japanese influence.

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So the idea of the wasabi and the rice wine vinegar follows it through.

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If you can't get hold of gutweed,

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you can always use nori seaweed, you know, the dried stuff.

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-You buy those sheets.

-Yeah.

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Into the whizzed-up seaweed mix, blend in 250ml of vegetable oil.

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This is perfect because it's neutral in flavour

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and doesn't overpower the taste of the amazing seaweed.

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That looks great.

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-Have a little try of that.

-Wow.

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-I think that could do with a pinch, don't you?

-That's sensational.

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You should come here more often, Tom.

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-Love it.

-So shall we get these oysters frying?

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Well, sticking it into the flour

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-will allow the batter to stick nicely.

-OK.

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-And that batter, what's...?

-It's a very simple batter.

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It's just flour, warm milk and fresh yeast.

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-I made it about an hour ago.

-So it's really active.

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Really active, really bubbly.

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Into the deep-fat fryer.

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Let it kind of set so that it floats.

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Because otherwise they'll stick to the bottom when you drop them in.

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-That looks great.

-This is oysters for beginners, this.

-Yeah, yeah.

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-So many people don't like them raw, do they, or fresh?

-No.

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That's often the problem.

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This way they can think of them as kind of like a seafoody chicken nugget.

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So you're going to dip them in the mayonnaise?

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Yeah, we'll dip them in the mayonnaise.

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To finish, I'm seasoning with sea salt

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and crushing over seaweed that Steve has dried himself.

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-Little bit of that on the top.

-Yeah, lovely.

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-Will be lovely, that, won't it?

-Yeah.

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And who better to get the verdict from than some tourists from Belgium,

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who have travelled all the way to visit Steve's pub?

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Come on in, guys, come on in. Come on in, come on in.

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-What are these?

-So these are Whitstable oysters from the area

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-and then a mayonnaise made with seaweed.

-OK!

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-Mmm!

-LAUGHTER

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-So you need to stop them...

-Mm! It's very good.

-That's nice.

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-It's good, isn't it?

-Very good.

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Washed down with a glass of cold champagne,

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absolutely perfect.

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This is what celebrating is all about -

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top-notch, lush ingredients, indulged in once in a while.

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-Job well done, chief.

-Yeah. Cheers, Tom.

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So next time I'm down on the beach, I know where your secret is.

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This next recipe is perfect for spoiling a special someone in your life.

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The preparation takes a little love and care

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but when you taste the results you'll be pleased you made the effort.

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The perfect partner for my Moroccan inspired monkfish

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is an incredible-tasting puree that I've been making for years

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using aubergines.

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Now, this is quite a cool way to cook them.

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This intense flavour you get from aubergine here is just amazing.

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That burning process gives

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a really nice kind of smoky flavour and edge

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that goes all the way through the aubergine.

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I remember when I was about 18 at catering college

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and I'd come home and make things for my mum

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and do like something with a garlic sauce.

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I put so much garlic in it that I always remember my mum saying,

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"Why does it taste so much of garlic?"

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I didn't listen to my mum and I just want everything to taste exactly of what it is.

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After about five to ten minutes, the skin will be nicely charred,

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so transfer the aubergines to a hot oven for 40 minutes.

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Once the aubergines are lovely and soft in the centre,

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scoop out all of the flesh.

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I'm going to chop the aubergine.

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Now, it's really important to do this process with a knife

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and not just stick it in a food processor,

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like I'm sure you'll be tempted to do.

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The problem with a food processor is it will emulsify the waters into the aubergine puree.

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What I'm trying to do here is chop it nice and finely

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but still give it enough space for the water to escape.

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It's all about getting rid of that excess moisture.

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It is worth doing.

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You can already see that there's liquid beginning to drip out.

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Now, this needs to sit in the fridge overnight

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to give the water a good chance to escape.

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I'm flavouring my puree and monkfish with cumin and coriander seeds.

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Toasting these intensifies their flavour,

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so it's well worth doing.

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I like to roast them in the oven so they cook evenly.

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And then every minute or two, give them a quick toss.

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And in five minutes, they'll be beautiful and golden.

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Then they're ready for a good grinding.

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This is a spice grinder.

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Now, you could so this in a mortar and pestle if you wanted.

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Wow!

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The smell that comes off that is amazing.

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It's really fragrant of loads of toasted spice.

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Cooking the spice mix out in olive oil releases even more flavour,

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which the drained aubergine then absorbs.

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Just as it's warming through, I'm going to pour in double cream.

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You're looking for a really nice,

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almost mashed-potato kind of texture and look to it.

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So I've got spice, richness from the cream

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and all it needs now is an acidic kick

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from the juice and zest of one lemon and then a good season.

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And a sneaky taste.

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That's amazing.

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And it's going to be even better with its partner in crime,

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a beautiful piece of fish.

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I like using monkfish.

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It's got a wonderful, meaty texture to it,

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so it's all right, blokes - pretend it's a steak.

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I'm going to cook it in a frying pan

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and treat it exactly like it was a fillet steak.

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Dust each piece of fish

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in that fantastic leftover ground cumin and coriander.

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This spice mix actually isn't hot.

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It just adds a wonderful warmth and fragrance

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that goes really well with a meaty piece of fish.

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Now place the monkfish into a hot frying pan

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with a little olive oil.

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Another good trick to remember is don't overfill your pan.

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If you have too many things in it, it causes steam

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and it won't crisp up or colour nicely.

0:19:440:19:46

Big pan like this, plenty of room - nice.

0:19:460:19:50

When it's looking golden and crispy, add a knob of butter.

0:19:510:19:54

It actually cools the pan down and gently helps to cook the fish.

0:19:540:20:00

And then like any good steak, you need to give it a good basting.

0:20:000:20:03

A squeeze of lemon juice adds a bit of zing.

0:20:070:20:09

And in only six to eight minutes, this delicious bit of fish is cooked.

0:20:110:20:15

Whilst they're resting, I'm going to get on and make a nice salsa to go with it.

0:20:210:20:24

You can whip this salsa up in minutes.

0:20:270:20:29

All it takes is chopped salty olives, acidic capers...

0:20:290:20:33

and the lovely savoury flavour we're going to get from these bad boys -

0:20:330:20:37

salted anchovies.

0:20:370:20:39

Red chilli adds spice and heat

0:20:420:20:44

and chopped parsley gives a lovely clean herbiness to the salsa.

0:20:440:20:48

A good squeeze of lemon juice.

0:20:490:20:51

That's going to go so well with this fish.

0:20:550:20:58

The aubergine puree is nice and warm.

0:20:590:21:01

Rested monkfish.

0:21:020:21:04

That looks so beautiful.

0:21:060:21:07

A little twist of salt.

0:21:090:21:10

And then stick it on top of the aubergine.

0:21:110:21:13

The dressing.

0:21:200:21:21

To finish, a few celery leaves add a wonderful freshness.

0:21:230:21:26

And that, boys and girls, is how to treat your other half - and yourself - properly.

0:21:260:21:33

I am a massive lover of gin,

0:21:450:21:47

so I'm here in the Portobello Road here in West London

0:21:470:21:50

and I'm going to the Ginstitute to meet Jake,

0:21:500:21:53

who knows everything there is to know about gins.

0:21:530:21:55

Gin is an excellent ingredient to cook with.

0:21:570:21:59

I like to poach rhubarb and summer fruits in it.

0:21:590:22:02

But today, I'm looking for a bottle to use in a gin and tonic granita.

0:22:030:22:07

This place is amazing.

0:22:090:22:10

And hopefully, Jake can sort me out and teach me a few things.

0:22:100:22:14

So what is gin and how is it made?

0:22:140:22:17

In a nutshell, when you make gin, you start with a blank canvas of an alcohol

0:22:170:22:21

and then you take botanicals, which are plants -

0:22:210:22:24

something naturally occurring - a seed, a nut, a berry, a root -

0:22:240:22:28

and we soak those in the alcohol

0:22:280:22:30

and then re-distil it and then what comes out the end is London dry gin.

0:22:300:22:33

The most important ingredient that all gins must contain is juniper.

0:22:330:22:39

If you take one out and rub it between your fingers,

0:22:390:22:41

-you'll feel the oil coming off it.

-Yeah.

0:22:410:22:43

-And if you smell that oil on your fingers, that is the smell of gin.

-Yeah.

0:22:430:22:47

So juniper berries are crucial

0:22:470:22:50

but it's the other ingredients that make each brand and bottle of gin unique.

0:22:500:22:54

I can see you've got things like nutmeg or allspice or liquorice.

0:22:540:22:59

Yeah, you can distil anything you can get your hands on.

0:22:590:23:01

Jake makes a variety of gins,

0:23:010:23:05

so has a massive range of distillations,

0:23:050:23:07

which I'm dying to have a taste of.

0:23:070:23:09

You can try them and see the different levels of intensity.

0:23:090:23:12

Whoa! That is lush.

0:23:120:23:15

I think you're going to like this one.

0:23:150:23:17

-No way! That's Worcester sauce.

-That's exactly right.

0:23:170:23:22

Whoa!

0:23:230:23:24

Another flavour which might interest you - fennel.

0:23:250:23:27

That dried apple is brilliant.

0:23:300:23:31

-This is the tea.

-Oh, my God!

0:23:310:23:34

Yeah, it's like a cup of tea but like...

0:23:340:23:37

It's like the best cup of tea ever.

0:23:370:23:39

But I'm here to find a gin to use in my granita

0:23:410:23:43

and I think Jake's London dry will do the job.

0:23:430:23:46

What makes his special blend stand out is

0:23:480:23:50

a carefully chosen recipe of nine botanicals.

0:23:500:23:53

That is absolutely lovely, that.

0:23:530:23:56

You get that gin start and then you do get a big citrus hit.

0:23:560:23:59

This is going to be perfect for me to make a gin and tonic granita.

0:23:590:24:03

Now I've got my bottle, I'm going to show you how to create a show-stopping dessert.

0:24:050:24:10

If you've indulged in a rich meal

0:24:100:24:12

and all you want is something light but sophisticated at the same time,

0:24:120:24:16

this recipe is spot on.

0:24:160:24:18

I'm doing a granita, which is a little bit like a sorbet

0:24:210:24:25

but more like one of those brightly coloured, slushy ice drinks.

0:24:250:24:28

Traditionally, an Italian granita is flavoured with citrus fruits

0:24:300:24:34

like lemons and oranges

0:24:340:24:36

but mine will have a lush gin and tonic twist.

0:24:360:24:39

To begin, bring some caster sugar and water up to the boil.

0:24:390:24:43

This will give it a little bit of sweetness.

0:24:450:24:47

It is a dessert, after all.

0:24:470:24:49

Make sure the sugar dissolves.

0:24:510:24:52

Next, in with 500mls of tonic water.

0:24:520:24:56

This instantly cools it down and stops the cooking of the sugar.

0:24:570:25:00

And then I'm going to add the juice of a lemon.

0:25:000:25:04

Citrus and gin and tonic, they go so well together.

0:25:050:25:08

It's like a complete natural marriage. It's amazing.

0:25:080:25:11

And then the gin.

0:25:120:25:14

It almost smells gardeny, all those herbs and all those flowers.

0:25:160:25:21

But be warned - gin works as an antifreeze,

0:25:210:25:24

so if you put too much in, your granita won't set up.

0:25:240:25:27

175ml of gin will do the job

0:25:290:25:32

and now I want to add some tartness

0:25:320:25:34

and there's something properly British that does this perfectly.

0:25:340:25:38

The Bramley apple has a great acidity

0:25:380:25:40

and it works really well with gin and tonic.

0:25:400:25:42

I'm just going to use the coarse side of the grater.

0:25:420:25:45

Bramley apples - not just good for crumble.

0:25:450:25:49

Great for gin.

0:25:490:25:51

This has to be the easiest dessert.

0:25:520:25:55

I'm sure you've all made a gin and tonic before

0:25:550:25:58

and all I've done is boiled some water and sugar

0:25:580:26:00

and grated an apple.

0:26:000:26:02

The apples not only add bite to the granita

0:26:040:26:06

but they also give a fantastic texture.

0:26:060:26:09

Next, quite simply transfer the mix to a freezer container.

0:26:090:26:13

I'm going to pop this in the freezer now for a minimum of four hours,

0:26:150:26:18

ideally overnight.

0:26:180:26:19

I'm going to give it a quick stir halfway through.

0:26:190:26:21

To drizzle over my granita, I'm going to make a beautiful apple caramel.

0:26:250:26:29

Now, this is the simplest thing ever.

0:26:300:26:32

Apple juice into a pan and bring it up to the boil.

0:26:320:26:37

Then it just needs to simmer on a low heat to reduce

0:26:380:26:41

for about 40 minutes.

0:26:410:26:42

The apple juice has got such lovely natural sugars in

0:26:430:26:46

that they begin to caramelise

0:26:460:26:48

and that's why you get your apple caramel - that easy.

0:26:480:26:51

So my granita's been in the freezer for about three to four hours.

0:26:540:26:57

I'm just going to slowly start to break it up with your fork.

0:26:570:27:04

You can see it getting all slushy and lush.

0:27:040:27:08

It's like the best gin and tonic ever.

0:27:080:27:11

Breaking it up like this creates that all-important crystallised ice effect.

0:27:120:27:16

Now it can go back in the freezer until you're ready to serve it.

0:27:160:27:20

My apple caramel has now reduced down to a lovely golden-brown glaze

0:27:210:27:25

and to give it a rich edge, I'm whisking in a knob of butter.

0:27:250:27:28

Once it's cooled down, all that's left to do is serve.

0:27:300:27:34

A sprinkling of finely diced, sweet Braeburn apple

0:27:390:27:42

adds delicious contrast to the sharp Bramley.

0:27:420:27:46

And then, a nice drizzle of cooled apple caramel.

0:27:460:27:50

Now, that is an amazing way to book-end a meal -

0:27:520:27:57

start off with a gin and tonic and finish with one.

0:27:570:28:00

Next time, I'll be cooking up those classic pub dishes

0:28:040:28:07

you always hope to see on the menu.

0:28:070:28:09

The sound of that crackling's incredible.

0:28:090:28:11

From my version of the nation's favourite dish...

0:28:110:28:14

Come on, chaps. Come and grab some fish and chips.

0:28:140:28:16

..to a great British pud you'll always make room for.

0:28:160:28:19

Sticky toffee pudding and caramelised banana - amazing.

0:28:190:28:23

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0:28:230:28:26

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