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The terror of Attila the Hun had ravaged the hills of northern Italy. | 0:00:06 | 0:00:11 | |
The refugees fled to a small group of islands in a marshy lagoon. | 0:00:14 | 0:00:19 | |
This big wasteland would become the most beautiful city on earth - | 0:00:19 | 0:00:25 | |
Venice. | 0:00:25 | 0:00:27 | |
Its people were fierce in war and rich in trade. | 0:00:27 | 0:00:31 | |
And then, one morning in April 1204, | 0:00:33 | 0:00:36 | |
in pursuit of money and power, | 0:00:36 | 0:00:38 | |
Venice led a vast army into one of the bloodiest battles in history - | 0:00:38 | 0:00:44 | |
the sack of Constantinople. | 0:00:44 | 0:00:47 | |
With victory came the power to dominate the Mediterranean | 0:00:49 | 0:00:54 | |
and a new empire that would span East and West. | 0:00:54 | 0:00:59 | |
Venice was now the centre of the world. | 0:01:33 | 0:01:35 | |
It became rich beyond its wildest dreams | 0:01:35 | 0:01:39 | |
and it spent its money on great new buildings, | 0:01:39 | 0:01:42 | |
beautiful paintings and sculptures. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:45 | |
This is the story of the greatest flowering of art in Venice's history. | 0:01:49 | 0:01:55 | |
There seemed no end to what this city could achieve. | 0:01:55 | 0:01:59 | |
But as the city's painters and architects became ever more daring and outrageous, | 0:01:59 | 0:02:06 | |
Venice was to make many enemies, | 0:02:06 | 0:02:09 | |
who would bring this spirit of great beauty and opulence | 0:02:09 | 0:02:13 | |
to a crashing end. | 0:02:13 | 0:02:16 | |
It all began with a mysterious arrival. | 0:02:20 | 0:02:24 | |
In 1295, a man staggered into this courtyard. | 0:02:27 | 0:02:32 | |
He wore torn, alien-looking clothes. | 0:02:32 | 0:02:37 | |
It seemed he didn't belong in Venice. | 0:02:37 | 0:02:40 | |
But he was coming back home. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:45 | |
His name... | 0:02:48 | 0:02:50 | |
was Marco Polo. | 0:02:50 | 0:02:53 | |
And he had just returned after 24 years of travel | 0:02:55 | 0:02:59 | |
through China and other strange and fantastic lands. | 0:02:59 | 0:03:04 | |
With the bizarre clothes, the weird accent and the savage look, | 0:03:09 | 0:03:15 | |
he had become a stranger to his own family. | 0:03:15 | 0:03:19 | |
A great banquet was given to celebrate Marco Polo's return. | 0:03:38 | 0:03:43 | |
At this feast, he was to reveal his discoveries, | 0:03:43 | 0:03:47 | |
things that Europe had never dreamt of. | 0:03:47 | 0:03:51 | |
Polo had returned with more than just jewels. | 0:03:52 | 0:03:56 | |
He'd brought back knowledge of a new world that was to make Venice rich. | 0:03:56 | 0:04:01 | |
He told of extraordinary spices from India, | 0:04:02 | 0:04:06 | |
the finest quality of silk, | 0:04:06 | 0:04:09 | |
gold and silver from Malabar | 0:04:09 | 0:04:12 | |
and the astonishing riches of the Chinese emperor Kublai Khan, | 0:04:12 | 0:04:18 | |
with his millions of ships, | 0:04:18 | 0:04:20 | |
his millions of horses | 0:04:20 | 0:04:23 | |
and millions of temples. | 0:04:23 | 0:04:26 | |
Marco Polo became known as Marco Milione or simply Milione - | 0:04:26 | 0:04:30 | |
Mr Millions - because the people of Venice didn't believe a word he said. | 0:04:30 | 0:04:35 | |
To make fun of him, | 0:04:36 | 0:04:40 | |
they even called this courtyard Il Milione. | 0:04:40 | 0:04:43 | |
But these distant lands were truly as rich as he said | 0:04:45 | 0:04:50 | |
and Venice would establish a unique network of trading routes to the East. | 0:04:50 | 0:04:55 | |
The city would be the gateway between Europe and the Orient, | 0:04:55 | 0:05:00 | |
bringing us huge power and riches. | 0:05:00 | 0:05:03 | |
Venice was truly the centre of the world, | 0:05:05 | 0:05:09 | |
and the place where the people of the East and West literally met | 0:05:09 | 0:05:13 | |
was in the Rialto, Venice's trading centre. | 0:05:13 | 0:05:17 | |
On a typical day, | 0:05:22 | 0:05:24 | |
any time between the 11th and the 15th centuries, | 0:05:24 | 0:05:29 | |
this place would have contained the richest mix of people to be found anywhere in the world. | 0:05:29 | 0:05:35 | |
The Rialto market, with all the shops, stores, people - | 0:05:35 | 0:05:39 | |
it felt like an eastern souk, almost a kasbah. | 0:05:39 | 0:05:44 | |
And still it does. | 0:05:44 | 0:05:46 | |
In this tiny area of Venice, | 0:05:49 | 0:05:52 | |
Europe could sample the world's most exotic goods - | 0:05:52 | 0:05:56 | |
strange fruits from Africa, perfumes from India, | 0:05:56 | 0:06:01 | |
minerals and fabric dyes from Malaya | 0:06:01 | 0:06:04 | |
and pepper, cloves and other spices from Arabia. | 0:06:04 | 0:06:10 | |
More than a centre of trade, the Rialto was the banking centre of Venice. | 0:06:22 | 0:06:28 | |
And Venice's banks were way ahead of their time. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:32 | |
This bar is the site of the first Giro bank, | 0:06:41 | 0:06:45 | |
the place where credit was born, where paper replaced gold, | 0:06:45 | 0:06:49 | |
and the first ever bank loans were issued here. | 0:06:49 | 0:06:53 | |
During the 12th and 13th centuries, this square was the financial centre of the world. | 0:06:56 | 0:07:02 | |
While the rest of Europe languished in the feudal age of masters and serfs, | 0:07:04 | 0:07:10 | |
Venetian bankers gave financial backing to a new class of merchant adventurers. | 0:07:10 | 0:07:17 | |
It was to fuel a modern credit boom. | 0:07:18 | 0:07:22 | |
The spirit of Marco Polo and the money of Banco Giro | 0:07:24 | 0:07:29 | |
created men like my ancestor, Alvise da Mosto. | 0:07:29 | 0:07:32 | |
Every great Venetian family had an explorer, | 0:07:34 | 0:07:38 | |
and in my house we have a statue of ours. | 0:07:38 | 0:07:42 | |
This is my great-great-great-grandfather, Alvise da Mosto. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:47 | |
He was an explorer and at the age of 22, | 0:07:47 | 0:07:52 | |
he discovered the Capo Verde Islands, off the coast of Africa, | 0:07:52 | 0:07:56 | |
in the Atlantic Ocean. | 0:07:56 | 0:07:58 | |
I'm 40, and with my little boat, I go around the lagoon. | 0:07:58 | 0:08:04 | |
But this is the difference between me and him. | 0:08:04 | 0:08:08 | |
Alvise da Mosto's incredible journey took him beyond the Christian world to pagan Africa. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:23 | |
Trade would be the new religion. | 0:08:23 | 0:08:26 | |
The explorer-merchants roamed from Jerusalem in the Holy Land to Muslim Egypt, | 0:08:26 | 0:08:32 | |
from Beijing in China to Constantinople, the capital of Byzantium, | 0:08:32 | 0:08:39 | |
the city we now call Istanbul. | 0:08:39 | 0:08:41 | |
They travelled to make money, but they also brought back new ideas of art. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:48 | |
This great building is the Fondaco dei Turchi. | 0:08:48 | 0:08:53 | |
The word "fondaco" derives from the Arabic for trading post. | 0:08:53 | 0:08:58 | |
Dating from the early 13th century, | 0:08:58 | 0:09:01 | |
the building served as lodging for foreign traders and a warehouse for their goods. | 0:09:01 | 0:09:08 | |
The tall arches were inspired by Byzantium. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:12 | |
The layout, a central courtyard with lodgings above, | 0:09:12 | 0:09:17 | |
was an idea borrowed from the East. | 0:09:17 | 0:09:19 | |
Buildings like this would change the look of Venice for ever. | 0:09:19 | 0:09:24 | |
But nothing is simple in Venice. | 0:09:24 | 0:09:27 | |
Here, the Byzantine style of the East mixed with Western Gothic style of northern Europe | 0:09:27 | 0:09:33 | |
and Venetian buildings became a strange, almost alien mixture. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:38 | |
No city in the world looked like this. | 0:09:40 | 0:09:43 | |
The elongated, round arch from the East | 0:09:44 | 0:09:48 | |
merged with the Western Gothic arch, | 0:09:48 | 0:09:51 | |
creating an elaborate new style, | 0:09:51 | 0:09:54 | |
a unique architecture - | 0:09:54 | 0:09:57 | |
Venetian Gothic. | 0:09:57 | 0:09:59 | |
And it was this style that would stamp its identity | 0:10:03 | 0:10:07 | |
on Venice's Grand Canal... | 0:10:07 | 0:10:10 | |
..the city's greatest waterway. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:14 | |
It stretches from the great basin of St Mark at one side of the city... | 0:10:16 | 0:10:21 | |
..winding snake-like through the great trading district of the Rialto. | 0:10:23 | 0:10:29 | |
This is the main artery of Venice. | 0:10:34 | 0:10:37 | |
All canals lead into the Grand Canal. | 0:10:38 | 0:10:42 | |
Throughout the 14th and 15th centuries, | 0:10:49 | 0:10:53 | |
fabulous Venetian Gothic palaces rose up along the Grand Canal. | 0:10:53 | 0:10:58 | |
It was here that Venice's great traders | 0:10:58 | 0:11:02 | |
would show off their wealth and splendour. | 0:11:02 | 0:11:06 | |
These palaces were all built for merchants | 0:11:10 | 0:11:14 | |
and they would double as a place of work and a home. On the ground floor | 0:11:14 | 0:11:19 | |
would be the warehouse space for merchandise | 0:11:19 | 0:11:23 | |
and on the first floor would be the grand living quarters. | 0:11:23 | 0:11:27 | |
But these palaces had new features which made them uniquely Venetian. | 0:11:27 | 0:11:32 | |
Every palace had two very different entrances - | 0:11:34 | 0:11:38 | |
one on the water and one on land. | 0:11:38 | 0:11:41 | |
The land entrance was often small | 0:11:41 | 0:11:45 | |
and lost down a dark back passage. | 0:11:45 | 0:11:48 | |
By far the more important was the water entrance. | 0:11:48 | 0:11:52 | |
Doubling as both a ceremonial entrance | 0:11:52 | 0:11:55 | |
and the easiest place to unload merchandise, | 0:11:55 | 0:11:59 | |
the Venetian water entrances were lavish shows of wealth and power. | 0:11:59 | 0:12:05 | |
The canal facade was most definitely the front of the house. | 0:12:05 | 0:12:10 | |
It had to impress everyone, from private visitors to business rivals. | 0:12:10 | 0:12:15 | |
Think about it. | 0:12:15 | 0:12:17 | |
Every one of these palaces was the headquarters of a family business. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:22 | |
The facades were a way of representing success. | 0:12:22 | 0:12:26 | |
Quite simply, the more money you had, the grander your facade. | 0:12:26 | 0:12:31 | |
But, as Venice was inclined to show off its wealth more and more, | 0:12:34 | 0:12:39 | |
even the back entrances came in for some extravagant treatment. | 0:12:39 | 0:12:43 | |
This is the Scala del Bovolo, | 0:12:59 | 0:13:01 | |
a sight famous all over the world. | 0:13:01 | 0:13:04 | |
Not because of the palace, but because of the staircase. | 0:13:04 | 0:13:08 | |
It's a work of art in itself. | 0:13:12 | 0:13:15 | |
Land was scarce in Venice and buildings were crowded together. | 0:13:18 | 0:13:23 | |
So light was vital. | 0:13:23 | 0:13:25 | |
The early windows were made like bottle ends, | 0:13:27 | 0:13:31 | |
the round discs held in place by lead. | 0:13:31 | 0:13:35 | |
Venice pioneered the production of window glass, | 0:13:35 | 0:13:39 | |
when other cities only had canvas or rags to keep out the wind and rain. | 0:13:39 | 0:13:45 | |
Glass allowed the palazzos to shimmer and shine | 0:13:50 | 0:13:55 | |
in the glory of the Venetian light reflecting off the canals. | 0:13:55 | 0:14:01 | |
One palace, more than any other, represents this great period for Venice - | 0:14:08 | 0:14:13 | |
the Ca d'Oro. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:16 | |
The name means "the house of gold". | 0:14:16 | 0:14:20 | |
And when it was first built, | 0:14:20 | 0:14:23 | |
the facade was covered with glistening gold-leaf paint. | 0:14:23 | 0:14:28 | |
The Venetians had started building their houses out of mud and straw. | 0:14:32 | 0:14:37 | |
But now they were building them out of gold. | 0:14:37 | 0:14:41 | |
Look how far Venice had come. | 0:14:41 | 0:14:44 | |
The Ca d'Oro was designed by the architect brothers Giovanni and Bartolomei Bon | 0:14:46 | 0:14:53 | |
and built during the 1420s for the grand Contarini family, | 0:14:53 | 0:14:58 | |
one of the most respected families in Venice. | 0:14:58 | 0:15:02 | |
They too traded in spices, fabric and dyes. | 0:15:02 | 0:15:07 | |
This would have been their warehouse space. | 0:15:07 | 0:15:11 | |
But what a warehouse! | 0:15:11 | 0:15:13 | |
In the internal courtyard is a well of red marble from Verona, | 0:15:18 | 0:15:24 | |
decorated with the figures of Charity, Justice and Fortitude, | 0:15:24 | 0:15:29 | |
and an intricately carved Moorish-style staircase | 0:15:29 | 0:15:34 | |
that shows us how Eastern-looking Venetian architecture could be. | 0:15:34 | 0:15:40 | |
It's hard to imagine now, but to a visitor of the 15th century, | 0:15:49 | 0:15:53 | |
the front of this palace might have seemed as if it was built by aliens. | 0:15:53 | 0:15:59 | |
It was the greatest example of Venetian Gothic architecture, | 0:15:59 | 0:16:03 | |
a style that was unique in the world. | 0:16:03 | 0:16:07 | |
The crenellation around the roof is yet another brilliant marriage | 0:16:12 | 0:16:17 | |
of Eastern and Western elements. | 0:16:17 | 0:16:20 | |
The marble columns were brought from quarries in Greece and Verona | 0:16:21 | 0:16:27 | |
and the bas-relief panels were looted from buildings in the far-eastern reaches | 0:16:27 | 0:16:34 | |
of the Venetian empire. | 0:16:34 | 0:16:36 | |
Ingredients may have come from far and wide. | 0:16:36 | 0:16:40 | |
But this brilliant confection | 0:16:40 | 0:16:43 | |
could only be found on the Grand Canal in Venice. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:46 | |
Through the rise and rise of the merchant class, | 0:16:50 | 0:16:54 | |
trade prospered and money flowed into Venice. | 0:16:54 | 0:16:59 | |
Money for fine architecture was followed by money spent on fine art. | 0:16:59 | 0:17:04 | |
Artists, like Giovanni and Gentile Bellini and Vittore Carpaccio, | 0:17:04 | 0:17:09 | |
emerged as much sought-after men in the life of the city. | 0:17:09 | 0:17:14 | |
And the Venetian authorities recognised art | 0:17:14 | 0:17:19 | |
as another trade to be supported by organised guilds. | 0:17:19 | 0:17:24 | |
This painting by Carpaccio | 0:17:29 | 0:17:31 | |
shows life on the Grand Canal in the 15th century. | 0:17:31 | 0:17:36 | |
The crowds pouring across the old wooden Rialto Bridge. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:41 | |
Merchants swagger along the canal side | 0:17:41 | 0:17:44 | |
with all the confidence of princes. | 0:17:44 | 0:17:48 | |
The Grand Canal is teeming with life. Even on the rooftops, | 0:17:48 | 0:17:51 | |
people hang their washing out to dry among the chimney pots. | 0:17:51 | 0:17:56 | |
The city's confidence was founded on its empire and its trade routes. | 0:18:07 | 0:18:12 | |
But something terrible was about to hit Venice. | 0:18:12 | 0:18:16 | |
Turkish armies laid siege to Constantinople. | 0:18:16 | 0:18:20 | |
The capital of Byzantium. | 0:18:22 | 0:18:24 | |
For 250 years, this city had been key to Venetian prosperity. | 0:18:24 | 0:18:30 | |
On the 29th of May 1453, | 0:18:33 | 0:18:36 | |
Sultan Mehmet II's terrifying army of Turks | 0:18:36 | 0:18:40 | |
marched into Constantinople and took the city. | 0:18:40 | 0:18:45 | |
Venice had lost its most important imperial outpost. | 0:18:45 | 0:18:49 | |
Now, the Islamic Ottoman empire dominated the East. | 0:18:49 | 0:18:56 | |
If Venice was to retain any trading influence in Constantinople, | 0:18:56 | 0:19:00 | |
the Venetians would have to make friends with the Turks. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:05 | |
So who did Venice send to Constantinople? | 0:19:05 | 0:19:09 | |
Not a soldier, not a sailor, | 0:19:09 | 0:19:11 | |
not even a politician, | 0:19:11 | 0:19:14 | |
but an artist. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:16 | |
By the end of the 15th century, | 0:19:16 | 0:19:19 | |
Venice knew that art was its most powerful asset. | 0:19:19 | 0:19:25 | |
They sent the painter Gentile Bellini | 0:19:25 | 0:19:28 | |
to win over Sultan Mehmet II. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:32 | |
Gentile had just finished decorating the Doge's Palace. | 0:19:32 | 0:19:37 | |
He had barely travelled beyond the Venetian lagoon, | 0:19:37 | 0:19:42 | |
but he took with him the secret of Venetian art | 0:19:42 | 0:19:46 | |
and the promise of painting a great portrait | 0:19:46 | 0:19:51 | |
of the sultan himself. | 0:19:51 | 0:19:53 | |
With its realism and psychological insight, | 0:19:58 | 0:20:01 | |
this painting was a revelation at the court of the sultan. | 0:20:01 | 0:20:05 | |
The picture bridged the divide between the Christian and Islamic worlds. | 0:20:05 | 0:20:11 | |
Unlike any other major European trading power, | 0:20:11 | 0:20:15 | |
Venice was happy to do business with the non-Christian world. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:20 | |
It was behaviour condemned by the Pope. | 0:20:20 | 0:20:24 | |
HE KNOCKS | 0:20:33 | 0:20:36 | |
As we say in Venice, | 0:20:51 | 0:20:53 | |
"Veneziani prima, poi Christiani." | 0:20:53 | 0:20:56 | |
We are Venetian first and Christian second. | 0:20:56 | 0:21:00 | |
Art and trade before faith. | 0:21:00 | 0:21:02 | |
But if Venice's secular attitude allowed trade to flourish, | 0:21:02 | 0:21:08 | |
the city knew better than to trust the increasingly expansionist Turks. | 0:21:08 | 0:21:14 | |
So Venice would smile at the East, | 0:21:15 | 0:21:18 | |
but be ready for a fight at any moment. | 0:21:18 | 0:21:21 | |
This is the Arsenale - a temple to military and trading power. | 0:21:22 | 0:21:27 | |
Venice's shipbuilding and weapons factory. | 0:21:27 | 0:21:32 | |
The engine that ran the Venetian empire. | 0:21:32 | 0:21:35 | |
It occupied the whole easternmost boundary of the city. | 0:21:35 | 0:21:40 | |
This place was so important that the whole of Venice kept time | 0:21:40 | 0:21:46 | |
according to work hours at the Arsenale. | 0:21:46 | 0:21:50 | |
At sunrise every morning, the bell in the Campanile would ring out across the city | 0:21:50 | 0:21:56 | |
and thousands of Venetians would make their way to the Arsenale. | 0:21:56 | 0:22:01 | |
The bell is still known as la Marangona, the carpenter, | 0:22:01 | 0:22:05 | |
named after the workers who had half an hour to get to the factory. | 0:22:05 | 0:22:10 | |
Here, they worked every hour of daylight | 0:22:10 | 0:22:13 | |
to ensure Venetian trade routes were never threatened. | 0:22:13 | 0:22:17 | |
This place could produce 200 ships in a month. | 0:22:19 | 0:22:23 | |
That's 50 ships in a week, seven per day. | 0:22:23 | 0:22:26 | |
It was the first factory production line in the world. | 0:22:26 | 0:22:31 | |
All of this in the second half of the 15th century, | 0:22:41 | 0:22:46 | |
at a time when English carpenters took months just to build one ship. | 0:22:46 | 0:22:52 | |
But something very strange, even wonderful, had happened at the Arsenale. | 0:22:54 | 0:23:00 | |
Just to the left, on the southernmost water entrance, | 0:23:02 | 0:23:06 | |
almost pushed to one side, | 0:23:06 | 0:23:09 | |
is a truly revelatory moment in Venetian architecture. | 0:23:09 | 0:23:13 | |
This is the land gate to the Arsenale, | 0:23:13 | 0:23:17 | |
built in 1460. | 0:23:17 | 0:23:19 | |
Its scale is modest, but its look is triumphant. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:24 | |
It is the first classical structure in the city, | 0:23:24 | 0:23:27 | |
its roots firmly in the ancient world of Greece and Rome. | 0:23:27 | 0:23:33 | |
For now, this wonderful gateway would sit here alone... | 0:23:36 | 0:23:41 | |
..out of time and out of place | 0:23:43 | 0:23:46 | |
in this Gothic city. | 0:23:46 | 0:23:48 | |
But on one fateful night... | 0:23:52 | 0:23:55 | |
in 1514... | 0:23:55 | 0:23:57 | |
..the opportunity to rebuild Venice was presented in the most terrifying way. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:08 | |
On the 10th of January 1514, | 0:24:11 | 0:24:14 | |
Venice burned. | 0:24:14 | 0:24:16 | |
But how could this be? | 0:24:18 | 0:24:21 | |
Fighting fires in Venice should be easy. | 0:24:21 | 0:24:24 | |
There is water everywhere. | 0:24:24 | 0:24:27 | |
Alas, Venice was in the grip of winter. | 0:24:27 | 0:24:31 | |
The canals were frozen solid. | 0:24:33 | 0:24:35 | |
The city burned for 24 hours. | 0:24:37 | 0:24:40 | |
The whole of the Rialto, Venice's commercial centre, was destroyed. | 0:24:40 | 0:24:45 | |
This was the great fire of Venice, a tragedy. | 0:24:47 | 0:24:51 | |
But also a great opportunity. | 0:24:52 | 0:24:54 | |
They would have to rebuild, and there was a choice - Gothic or classical. | 0:24:54 | 0:25:00 | |
And the choice was classical. | 0:25:07 | 0:25:09 | |
Out of the tragedy would come triumphalism | 0:25:09 | 0:25:13 | |
and one of its most famous monuments, the Rialto Bridge. | 0:25:13 | 0:25:17 | |
The old wooden bridge had to be replaced. | 0:25:18 | 0:25:22 | |
Now, this important thoroughfare, | 0:25:23 | 0:25:26 | |
linking the commercial heart of the Rialto to the political heart of San Marco | 0:25:26 | 0:25:32 | |
would be a monument to permanence and power. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:36 | |
An architectural competition was held, | 0:25:46 | 0:25:49 | |
attracting the best Italian architects. | 0:25:49 | 0:25:53 | |
Even Michelangelo entered. | 0:25:53 | 0:25:55 | |
But Venice, being Venice, would choose one of its own | 0:25:57 | 0:26:01 | |
to build the emblem of the new age. | 0:26:01 | 0:26:04 | |
Michelangelo's design was thrown out | 0:26:04 | 0:26:07 | |
and the job was given to a little-regarded architect | 0:26:07 | 0:26:11 | |
who'd done some repair work for the Doge - | 0:26:11 | 0:26:16 | |
Antonio da Ponte. | 0:26:16 | 0:26:18 | |
Just like everything else in Venice, the design was fuelled by trade. | 0:26:18 | 0:26:22 | |
With the shops that lined it, | 0:26:22 | 0:26:25 | |
the bridge became an extension of the Rialto market itself. | 0:26:25 | 0:26:29 | |
The winning design had one, giant, single span | 0:26:29 | 0:26:33 | |
of over 90 feet across the canal. | 0:26:33 | 0:26:36 | |
Above it, a classical arcade of finest white marble from Istria, | 0:26:36 | 0:26:41 | |
meeting at the middle in a great arch. | 0:26:41 | 0:26:46 | |
The enormous weight of the bridge | 0:26:49 | 0:26:51 | |
is supported by more than 12,000 wooden stakes, | 0:26:51 | 0:26:55 | |
sunk into the shifting ground on either side. | 0:26:55 | 0:26:59 | |
From afar, the Rialto Bridge appears so gentle, | 0:27:03 | 0:27:08 | |
so light. | 0:27:08 | 0:27:10 | |
But the nearer you go, you feel the power of the stones. | 0:27:11 | 0:27:17 | |
When they built it, they had to strengthen both sides for 100 metres. | 0:27:17 | 0:27:21 | |
It's incredible. | 0:27:23 | 0:27:25 | |
After 500 years, it's still like the first day. It's perfect. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:29 | |
It's strange, but, er... | 0:27:36 | 0:27:38 | |
it's always an emotion to pass under. | 0:27:38 | 0:27:43 | |
Like it was the first time. | 0:27:43 | 0:27:45 | |
Oh-oh! | 0:27:49 | 0:27:51 | |
And after 500 years, it's still perfect. | 0:27:53 | 0:27:57 | |
The same stones. | 0:27:57 | 0:28:00 | |
The angels on the sides. | 0:28:00 | 0:28:03 | |
Because the bridge is something against nature. | 0:28:05 | 0:28:09 | |
And you have to put yourself in the angels' hands. | 0:28:09 | 0:28:13 | |
For da Ponte, it was over. | 0:28:15 | 0:28:18 | |
The Rialto Bridge, his one monument to posterity. | 0:28:18 | 0:28:23 | |
But already a battle had begun for the architectural soul of Venice. | 0:28:23 | 0:28:29 | |
Just as Venice had made the Gothic its own, so it would reinterpret classicism. | 0:28:32 | 0:28:38 | |
It would be a battle of architects, | 0:28:38 | 0:28:41 | |
but whose classicism will win? | 0:28:41 | 0:28:44 | |
This is Jacopo Sansovino, | 0:28:44 | 0:28:48 | |
a charismatic man who made his buildings rich and ornate. | 0:28:48 | 0:28:52 | |
This is Andrea Palladio. | 0:28:52 | 0:28:55 | |
He was clever, but he knew it. | 0:28:55 | 0:28:57 | |
His designs were monumental. | 0:28:57 | 0:29:00 | |
The story of their rivalry would take Venice to new heights of beauty, | 0:29:01 | 0:29:07 | |
but it would come at a difficult time for the republic. | 0:29:07 | 0:29:12 | |
Let me explain. | 0:29:12 | 0:29:14 | |
The Republic of Venice was losing power. | 0:29:14 | 0:29:17 | |
It needed to feel solid, lusting, impenetrable, | 0:29:17 | 0:29:21 | |
so Sansovino and Palladio were trying to rebuild it as a great ancient city. | 0:29:21 | 0:29:27 | |
And classical architecture gave the feeling | 0:29:27 | 0:29:31 | |
of older insecurity to Venice. | 0:29:31 | 0:29:35 | |
Ciao! | 0:29:37 | 0:29:38 | |
Andrea Palladio was a brilliant scholar of ancient architecture. | 0:29:48 | 0:29:53 | |
But his designs were too bold for the conservative Venetians. | 0:29:56 | 0:30:02 | |
Palladio was frequently rejected in favour of Jacopo Sansovino, | 0:30:11 | 0:30:15 | |
an outgoing, healthy-living man, who was fond of cucumbers. | 0:30:15 | 0:30:21 | |
With his charms, Sansovino had quickly found favour with the Venetian Establishment. | 0:30:21 | 0:30:28 | |
Sansovino was successful, popular and well connected. | 0:30:28 | 0:30:33 | |
By 1529, he was employed as the superintendent of works | 0:30:33 | 0:30:39 | |
for St Mark's Square and the Doge's Palace... | 0:30:39 | 0:30:42 | |
..the chief architect of Venice. | 0:30:45 | 0:30:48 | |
His buildings were certainly bold. | 0:30:48 | 0:30:51 | |
But their elaborate facades seemed to the authorities | 0:30:51 | 0:30:55 | |
to complement the older Venetian Gothic. | 0:30:55 | 0:30:59 | |
It looked as though Palladio's cause was hopeless, | 0:31:02 | 0:31:06 | |
but fate - or incompetence - would intervene. | 0:31:06 | 0:31:12 | |
While Palladio struggled to get work in Venice, | 0:31:12 | 0:31:15 | |
Sansovino started a building that would dominate his life. | 0:31:15 | 0:31:20 | |
It would make him imprisoned and bankrupt, but, at the end, it was a triumph. | 0:31:20 | 0:31:25 | |
It was the Library of St Mark. | 0:31:25 | 0:31:28 | |
This is classicism following the rules of Ancient Rome, | 0:31:37 | 0:31:41 | |
with its fine Doric arcade below | 0:31:41 | 0:31:44 | |
and ionic upper story. | 0:31:44 | 0:31:46 | |
But it is classicism with a Venetian flourish, | 0:31:49 | 0:31:53 | |
hailed in the city as the richest, most ornate building since antiquity. | 0:31:53 | 0:32:00 | |
It's as though Sansovino was playing to his audience. | 0:32:00 | 0:32:05 | |
Confident of Venice's love of ornate decoration, | 0:32:05 | 0:32:10 | |
he covered the building with fine detail, putting the frieze and graceful figures on the balustrade. | 0:32:10 | 0:32:18 | |
But Sansovino had got carried away. | 0:32:24 | 0:32:27 | |
On the 18th of December 1545, disaster struck. | 0:32:29 | 0:32:33 | |
The ground-floor vault over the main hall collapsed, | 0:32:33 | 0:32:38 | |
bringing down the floor above it. | 0:32:38 | 0:32:41 | |
Sansovino was thrown into jail. | 0:32:44 | 0:32:47 | |
Sansovino had fallen from grace - | 0:32:57 | 0:32:59 | |
from superstar architect to common criminal. | 0:32:59 | 0:33:03 | |
He had blamed the collapse of the building on frost | 0:33:03 | 0:33:08 | |
and the gunfire from a nearby ship, | 0:33:08 | 0:33:10 | |
but the authorities held him personally responsible. | 0:33:10 | 0:33:16 | |
Sansovino was made to pay for the rebuilding himself. | 0:33:16 | 0:33:20 | |
It took him 25 years. | 0:33:20 | 0:33:23 | |
At last, the time had come for the radical vision of Andrea Palladio. | 0:33:35 | 0:33:41 | |
This is the church of San Francesco della Vigna. | 0:33:56 | 0:34:00 | |
The interior was designed by Sansovino, | 0:34:00 | 0:34:04 | |
but the exterior was given to Andrea Palladio, | 0:34:04 | 0:34:08 | |
the new star of Venetian architecture. | 0:34:08 | 0:34:12 | |
Quite simply, Palladio has taken all Sansovino has done, | 0:34:12 | 0:34:18 | |
and he made it bigger and bolder. | 0:34:18 | 0:34:22 | |
This building, more than any other, | 0:34:29 | 0:34:31 | |
signalled the fall of Sansovino and the rise of Palladio. | 0:34:31 | 0:34:36 | |
Palladio brought something entirely new to Venice. | 0:34:39 | 0:34:43 | |
He took the classicism of Rome and made it even greater. | 0:34:46 | 0:34:51 | |
His buildings felt as though they would last forever, | 0:34:51 | 0:34:57 | |
and whatever their size, | 0:34:57 | 0:34:59 | |
their structures seemed enormous. | 0:34:59 | 0:35:02 | |
But perhaps Palladio's greatest work | 0:35:09 | 0:35:12 | |
is the monastery and church of San Giorgio Maggiore. | 0:35:12 | 0:35:17 | |
When this was built, | 0:35:23 | 0:35:25 | |
it shocked and astonished the Venetians. | 0:35:25 | 0:35:29 | |
The huge columns, the triangular porticos were like nothing they had ever seen, | 0:35:29 | 0:35:36 | |
and even if they didn't like it, | 0:35:36 | 0:35:39 | |
it would have turned their heads, and screamed, "Look at me!" | 0:35:39 | 0:35:44 | |
Inside, Palladio even incorporates his love of circular, ancient temples | 0:35:58 | 0:36:04 | |
by planning the church's shape round a huge dome, | 0:36:04 | 0:36:09 | |
placed exactly at the centre of the building. | 0:36:09 | 0:36:13 | |
With this and other churches in Venice, | 0:36:40 | 0:36:44 | |
Palladio was at last hailed as the architectural genius of the age. | 0:36:44 | 0:36:50 | |
Palladio's great triumphs | 0:37:00 | 0:37:03 | |
allowed Venetians to take refuge in the look of their city, | 0:37:03 | 0:37:07 | |
but they could not master reality. | 0:37:07 | 0:37:09 | |
The foundations of Venice's success were crumbling away. | 0:37:09 | 0:37:13 | |
In 1497, the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama | 0:37:13 | 0:37:19 | |
had rounded the Cape of Good Hope at the tip of Africa. | 0:37:19 | 0:37:23 | |
It would change the trading map of the world. | 0:37:23 | 0:37:26 | |
It created a new trade route by ship to the East - | 0:37:26 | 0:37:32 | |
to India, China and Central Asia. | 0:37:32 | 0:37:35 | |
A faster and a cheaper route. | 0:37:35 | 0:37:37 | |
A route that bypassed Venice. | 0:37:37 | 0:37:40 | |
Venice had been the gateway to the East, | 0:37:42 | 0:37:46 | |
but the trade routes were largely across land. | 0:37:46 | 0:37:49 | |
Often, the terrain was dangerous and difficult, | 0:37:49 | 0:37:53 | |
and a camel train could only carry a fraction of the goods | 0:37:53 | 0:37:57 | |
that could go by ship. | 0:37:57 | 0:37:59 | |
The news of Vasco da Gama's discovery travelled fast. | 0:37:59 | 0:38:04 | |
There was now little point in European traders using Venice as a stopoff, | 0:38:06 | 0:38:12 | |
or even an intermediary trading post. | 0:38:12 | 0:38:16 | |
When the news hit the Rialto, | 0:38:19 | 0:38:21 | |
banks closed overnight. | 0:38:21 | 0:38:24 | |
This was a total nightmare. | 0:38:24 | 0:38:27 | |
Almost overnight, Venice was penniless. | 0:38:27 | 0:38:31 | |
Facing ruin. | 0:38:31 | 0:38:33 | |
They really had to do something to survive, | 0:38:33 | 0:38:36 | |
but what they did shocked the rest of the Christian world. | 0:38:36 | 0:38:41 | |
The Jews were reviled by the Catholic Church, | 0:38:43 | 0:38:47 | |
but at a time when much of Europe was expelling them from its cities, | 0:38:47 | 0:38:52 | |
Venice saw the Jews as great traders and moneymakers. | 0:38:52 | 0:38:57 | |
Like the Venetians themselves, | 0:38:57 | 0:39:00 | |
their trading contacts spread far and wide. | 0:39:00 | 0:39:04 | |
In 1516, Venice set up a Jewish quarter in the city. | 0:39:04 | 0:39:08 | |
Before long, Jews arrived from all over Europe. | 0:39:08 | 0:39:13 | |
They brought money, expertise and trading contacts. | 0:39:13 | 0:39:18 | |
This is where they had to live - | 0:39:18 | 0:39:20 | |
an island at the heart of Venice. | 0:39:20 | 0:39:24 | |
On this island there was an old forge, | 0:39:24 | 0:39:27 | |
and the Venetian word for the forge was "getto". | 0:39:27 | 0:39:31 | |
This was the first Jewish ghetto in the world. | 0:39:31 | 0:39:35 | |
It gave its name to the concept of captivity and cruelty that existed now. | 0:39:35 | 0:39:42 | |
And the marks of the gates are still here. | 0:39:42 | 0:39:45 | |
Look. | 0:39:45 | 0:39:47 | |
The Jews were heavily taxed, | 0:39:50 | 0:39:53 | |
forced to wear yellow hats as a mark of distinction, | 0:39:53 | 0:39:57 | |
and the gates were locked at nightfall. | 0:39:57 | 0:40:00 | |
The guards on the gates were Christians, | 0:40:00 | 0:40:03 | |
paid for by the Jews. | 0:40:03 | 0:40:06 | |
Yet, despite their treatment, | 0:40:06 | 0:40:08 | |
Venice's Jewish population flourished, | 0:40:08 | 0:40:12 | |
and life was better in Venice than just about anywhere else in Europe. | 0:40:12 | 0:40:17 | |
Venetian Jews were moneylenders, | 0:40:17 | 0:40:20 | |
pawnbrokers, merchants, doctors, and dealers in second-hand goods. | 0:40:20 | 0:40:25 | |
The ghetto is the place you still come in Venice for second-hand goods. | 0:40:42 | 0:40:48 | |
Arrivederci! | 0:41:09 | 0:41:12 | |
As the Jewish community expanded, | 0:41:14 | 0:41:16 | |
the ghetto grew...upwards. | 0:41:16 | 0:41:19 | |
These houses are higher than most Venetian houses, | 0:41:19 | 0:41:24 | |
as more floors were added to accommodate more people. | 0:41:24 | 0:41:28 | |
The windows are so close together | 0:41:28 | 0:41:31 | |
because the ceilings are so low. | 0:41:31 | 0:41:34 | |
Many of the buildings were linked internally by passages and staircases, | 0:41:35 | 0:41:42 | |
and contain some of Venice's great hidden treasures. | 0:41:42 | 0:41:46 | |
This is one of four synagogues inside the houses of the ghetto. | 0:41:46 | 0:41:51 | |
It is like no other synagogue in the world. | 0:41:51 | 0:41:56 | |
Jewish architects were forbidden in Venice, | 0:41:58 | 0:42:01 | |
so this synagogue was built by a Venetian. | 0:42:01 | 0:42:05 | |
And you can tell. | 0:42:05 | 0:42:08 | |
It is typical of the Venetian love of show and wealth, | 0:42:08 | 0:42:12 | |
and it feels...more like a theatre | 0:42:12 | 0:42:16 | |
than a place of worship. | 0:42:16 | 0:42:19 | |
After Vasco da Gama's dramatic discovery, | 0:42:22 | 0:42:25 | |
Venice's deal with the Jews brought the city back from the brink of disaster, | 0:42:25 | 0:42:32 | |
but once again, it rocked Venice's relations with the Catholic Church. | 0:42:32 | 0:42:38 | |
As Venice turned its back on the Church, | 0:42:38 | 0:42:41 | |
so did its artists. | 0:42:41 | 0:42:43 | |
Once saucy young painter took Venetian painting | 0:42:43 | 0:42:47 | |
to a new level of beauty, | 0:42:47 | 0:42:50 | |
sexuality and ungodly eroticism. | 0:42:50 | 0:42:53 | |
His name was Tiziano Vecellio. | 0:42:57 | 0:42:59 | |
In his lifetime, he was to become Venice's most famous artist, | 0:42:59 | 0:43:05 | |
but his fate | 0:43:05 | 0:43:07 | |
would be horribly linked to that of the city. | 0:43:07 | 0:43:11 | |
We know him by the name Titian. | 0:43:11 | 0:43:14 | |
This is where Titian lived. | 0:43:17 | 0:43:20 | |
His studio was at the end of the garden. | 0:43:25 | 0:43:28 | |
As his fame grew, he entertained scholars, | 0:43:28 | 0:43:32 | |
artists and many of the most beautiful women in Venice. | 0:43:32 | 0:43:36 | |
Titian set a new style for the artist - | 0:43:39 | 0:43:43 | |
no longer subservient to religion and the Church. | 0:43:43 | 0:43:47 | |
His friends were free-thinking painters, | 0:43:47 | 0:43:50 | |
poets and philosophers. | 0:43:50 | 0:43:53 | |
People like Veronese, the poet Aretino | 0:43:53 | 0:43:57 | |
and the musician, Irene da Spilimbergo. | 0:43:57 | 0:44:00 | |
With Titian's circle, the idea of the artist as a romantic figure was born. | 0:44:02 | 0:44:08 | |
Someone who enjoyed life as an individual, free of the dictates of a rich patron. | 0:44:09 | 0:44:15 | |
Titian was a Venetian, | 0:44:19 | 0:44:22 | |
and like all of us Venetians, trade was in his blood. | 0:44:22 | 0:44:26 | |
He started to see the financial possibilities of his paintings. | 0:44:26 | 0:44:31 | |
Painterly mythologies, allegories and portraits flowed from his studio, | 0:44:34 | 0:44:40 | |
all in his distinctive style. | 0:44:40 | 0:44:42 | |
He had taken the realistic brush stroke of the Florentine Renaissance artists | 0:44:44 | 0:44:50 | |
and given it a softer, more expressive edge. | 0:44:50 | 0:44:55 | |
Royals and noblemen from all over the world | 0:44:58 | 0:45:01 | |
sent agents to Venice to buy Titian's paintings. | 0:45:01 | 0:45:06 | |
Kings and princes vied with each other | 0:45:06 | 0:45:09 | |
to be painted by the great man, | 0:45:09 | 0:45:12 | |
and Titian got rich on the proceeds. | 0:45:12 | 0:45:15 | |
Now art was a commodity to be traded in, | 0:45:17 | 0:45:21 | |
to get rich on. | 0:45:21 | 0:45:24 | |
It was fast becoming Venice's most important export. | 0:45:24 | 0:45:28 | |
And among Titian's hundreds of sitters | 0:45:33 | 0:45:37 | |
were the beautiful women of Venice. | 0:45:37 | 0:45:40 | |
It was in the representations of these women as Venus | 0:45:40 | 0:45:45 | |
that Titian was to take art and Venice | 0:45:45 | 0:45:48 | |
to a deeply immoral place | 0:45:48 | 0:45:51 | |
it had never been before. | 0:45:51 | 0:45:54 | |
Like his portraits, his nudes celebrate life in a new, secular way. | 0:45:54 | 0:46:00 | |
His bodies are real. | 0:46:03 | 0:46:05 | |
They have a feeling of real flesh, | 0:46:05 | 0:46:07 | |
of carnale. | 0:46:07 | 0:46:09 | |
One painting more than any shows the spirit of the age. | 0:46:11 | 0:46:16 | |
Titian had been commissioned by the Duke of Urbino's son | 0:46:16 | 0:46:21 | |
to paint an image of Venus. | 0:46:21 | 0:46:23 | |
This was the result of the commission - | 0:46:23 | 0:46:27 | |
the Venus Of Urbino. | 0:46:27 | 0:46:29 | |
The nude had appeared in art for many centuries before, | 0:46:29 | 0:46:35 | |
and the nudes of the Renaissance | 0:46:35 | 0:46:37 | |
had become erotic icons, | 0:46:37 | 0:46:39 | |
but there was something in the figures that was chaste. | 0:46:39 | 0:46:44 | |
They closed their eyes or looked away from the viewer, | 0:46:44 | 0:46:48 | |
but the Venus Of Urbino was different. | 0:46:48 | 0:46:52 | |
She looked straight at the viewer. | 0:46:52 | 0:46:55 | |
In an earlier painting by Titian's teacher, Giorgione, | 0:46:55 | 0:46:59 | |
The Goddess Of Love touches herself, | 0:46:59 | 0:47:02 | |
but her eyes are closed. | 0:47:02 | 0:47:05 | |
She's in her own world. | 0:47:05 | 0:47:08 | |
As her hand creeps between her legs, acknowledging her sex, | 0:47:13 | 0:47:17 | |
Titian makes Venus look straight at us. | 0:47:17 | 0:47:21 | |
That is what made this the most shocking and astonishing picture of its time. | 0:47:21 | 0:47:27 | |
No other nude had ever stared out at the viewer. | 0:47:27 | 0:47:33 | |
CHURCH BELL TOLLS | 0:47:33 | 0:47:35 | |
Venice's relationship with the Catholic Church | 0:47:37 | 0:47:42 | |
had already been taken to the limit, | 0:47:42 | 0:47:45 | |
but now Titian and a new group of artists went too far with their unchristian art. | 0:47:45 | 0:47:50 | |
The Church was already unhappy about Titian's seductive painting, | 0:47:50 | 0:47:56 | |
The Assumption Of The Virgin, in the Frari church. | 0:47:56 | 0:47:59 | |
But the paintings of Titian's friend Paolo Veronese | 0:48:02 | 0:48:07 | |
scandalised the authorities. | 0:48:07 | 0:48:09 | |
This is the church of St Sebastian, | 0:48:09 | 0:48:12 | |
almost entirely decorated by Veronese. | 0:48:12 | 0:48:16 | |
His versions of traditional Christian scenes were scandalously modern. | 0:48:16 | 0:48:20 | |
Veronese makes no effort | 0:48:20 | 0:48:23 | |
to depict religious scenes | 0:48:23 | 0:48:26 | |
in their traditional surroundings. | 0:48:26 | 0:48:28 | |
He moved historical figures from one scene to another, with little respect for religious history. | 0:48:28 | 0:48:35 | |
He introduces humorous and irreverent details. | 0:48:35 | 0:48:39 | |
In this painting, The Feast At Cana, | 0:48:41 | 0:48:44 | |
he even had the audacity | 0:48:44 | 0:48:46 | |
to portray Venetian painters as the musicians entertaining Christ. | 0:48:46 | 0:48:51 | |
The bearded bass viola player on the right, wearing red, is Titian. | 0:48:51 | 0:48:57 | |
The musician in white, to the left, is Veronese himself. | 0:48:57 | 0:49:03 | |
Veronese was brilliant, and the Church wanted brilliant paintings, | 0:49:03 | 0:49:07 | |
but he was teasing them with his irreverent work, | 0:49:07 | 0:49:12 | |
and when he was commissioned to paint The Last Supper in 1573, | 0:49:12 | 0:49:17 | |
he pushed the tolerance of the Catholic Church one step too far. | 0:49:17 | 0:49:22 | |
Veronese's painting of The Last Supper | 0:49:27 | 0:49:30 | |
was considered deeply blasphemous, | 0:49:30 | 0:49:33 | |
and he incurred the wrath of the Vatican secret police - the Inquisition. | 0:49:33 | 0:49:40 | |
The Church condemned the painting for showing buffoons, | 0:49:40 | 0:49:45 | |
drunkards, dwarves | 0:49:45 | 0:49:48 | |
and similar vulgarities. | 0:49:48 | 0:49:50 | |
Veronese was forced to change the name and subject of the picture | 0:49:52 | 0:49:57 | |
to The Feast At The House Of Levi. | 0:49:57 | 0:50:01 | |
But the Venetian artists wouldn't stop breaking Catholic laws. | 0:50:06 | 0:50:11 | |
The poet Aretino defied the Pope | 0:50:11 | 0:50:15 | |
by publishing a set of pornographic prints | 0:50:15 | 0:50:19 | |
already banned by the Vatican. | 0:50:19 | 0:50:21 | |
Titian's friend Aretino wrote a sonnet | 0:50:23 | 0:50:27 | |
to accompany each image. | 0:50:27 | 0:50:30 | |
These artists were sacrilegious, | 0:51:09 | 0:51:12 | |
but they saw their art as more important than anything else. | 0:51:12 | 0:51:17 | |
Ultimately, Venice would pay the price. | 0:51:17 | 0:51:21 | |
During this golden age, Venice committed ungodly acts. | 0:51:22 | 0:51:27 | |
As the city's population reached an all-time high, | 0:51:27 | 0:51:31 | |
Titian and his friends might have gone too far. | 0:51:31 | 0:51:34 | |
And on the evening of the 25th of June of 1575, | 0:51:38 | 0:51:42 | |
it seemed that the vengeance of the most biblical kind | 0:51:42 | 0:51:47 | |
was delivered upon the city... | 0:51:47 | 0:51:50 | |
..and this most famous artist. | 0:51:52 | 0:51:54 | |
Titian and Venice were struck by the plague. | 0:51:56 | 0:52:00 | |
The disease spread like wildfire through the city | 0:52:00 | 0:52:06 | |
and, for the Venetians, it seemed like a punishment from God, | 0:52:06 | 0:52:10 | |
or worse - a punishment from God, ordered by the Pope. | 0:52:10 | 0:52:15 | |
The symptoms were severe chills, vomiting up blood, | 0:52:16 | 0:52:21 | |
and huge boils that would form a black crust when they burst. | 0:52:21 | 0:52:27 | |
If you were lucky, you died within the day. | 0:52:27 | 0:52:32 | |
If you were unlucky, you might live on in agony for a week. | 0:52:33 | 0:52:39 | |
Venetian plague doctors patrolled the alleys and canals | 0:52:43 | 0:52:49 | |
with capes and snout-nosed masks, full of pepper for protection. | 0:52:49 | 0:52:54 | |
The plague has had a massive impact on the history of Venice. | 0:52:58 | 0:53:03 | |
This is a traveller's city, | 0:53:03 | 0:53:06 | |
and disease has travelled to and from it many times. | 0:53:06 | 0:53:10 | |
But it was from the East that it first came. | 0:53:10 | 0:53:15 | |
The route that brought Venice its riches | 0:53:15 | 0:53:18 | |
would also be the route that brought so much death. | 0:53:18 | 0:53:22 | |
Victims were dying by the hundreds every day. | 0:53:36 | 0:53:40 | |
Criminals were freed from the city's prisons | 0:53:40 | 0:53:46 | |
to deal with the corpses and ferry the ill. | 0:53:46 | 0:53:50 | |
And with the city overflowing with the dead, | 0:53:57 | 0:54:02 | |
there was only one place to take them - | 0:54:02 | 0:54:05 | |
the lagoon. | 0:54:05 | 0:54:07 | |
All around would be death - | 0:54:13 | 0:54:15 | |
galleys full of dying people, guarded by warships | 0:54:15 | 0:54:20 | |
to make sure none escaped. | 0:54:20 | 0:54:23 | |
Those who did try to escape will be hanged over the water. | 0:54:26 | 0:54:31 | |
This was the victims' destination - | 0:54:32 | 0:54:35 | |
the old plague hospital of Lazzaretto Vecchio. | 0:54:35 | 0:54:40 | |
The island is now home to no-one but a pack of stray dogs, | 0:54:44 | 0:54:49 | |
wild, like the souls of the dead. | 0:54:49 | 0:54:52 | |
Someone unfortunate enough to experience this hell wrote about what he saw. | 0:55:03 | 0:55:10 | |
The stench was unbearable, | 0:55:11 | 0:55:14 | |
the air filled with the groans and pained sighs of the dying, | 0:55:14 | 0:55:18 | |
the smoke rising from the burned bodies of the dead... | 0:55:18 | 0:55:24 | |
The sick were placed three or four to a bed. | 0:55:25 | 0:55:29 | |
In agony, unable to speak from the pain they were suffering, they were thrown onto carts | 0:55:31 | 0:55:37 | |
piled up with corpses. | 0:55:37 | 0:55:39 | |
For two years they were brought here, | 0:55:42 | 0:55:45 | |
and they died in their thousands. | 0:55:45 | 0:55:49 | |
Their tens of thousands. | 0:55:49 | 0:55:52 | |
Most of the bodies were burned here. | 0:55:54 | 0:55:57 | |
Only the dead of the noble families were taken away, | 0:55:58 | 0:56:02 | |
and even they didn't get any marked graves. | 0:56:02 | 0:56:08 | |
But in the deeper reaches of the lagoon | 0:56:11 | 0:56:15 | |
lies Venice's true island of the dead. | 0:56:15 | 0:56:20 | |
The plague dead of Venice's noble families | 0:56:26 | 0:56:30 | |
were taken to the island of Santaliano. | 0:56:30 | 0:56:33 | |
Here, they were not burned, | 0:56:33 | 0:56:36 | |
but buried in shallow mass graves, | 0:56:36 | 0:56:39 | |
where they lie to this day. | 0:56:39 | 0:56:42 | |
The only victim to get a marked grave was Titian himself. | 0:56:50 | 0:56:54 | |
On this island lie the remains of all the other nobles who died. | 0:56:58 | 0:57:03 | |
Fragments of human bones everywhere. | 0:57:09 | 0:57:13 | |
We will never know who these people were. | 0:57:15 | 0:57:19 | |
Maybe friends of our ancestors... | 0:57:21 | 0:57:24 | |
A child's that's lost the chance of life... | 0:57:30 | 0:57:34 | |
Maybe death was the end of sufferance. | 0:57:39 | 0:57:43 | |
Who knows. | 0:57:43 | 0:57:45 | |
At the height of the plague, 51,000 had died - | 0:58:01 | 0:58:06 | |
almost a third of the population of Venice. | 0:58:06 | 0:58:10 | |
From her place at the centre of the world, | 0:58:16 | 0:58:19 | |
Venice had fallen. | 0:58:19 | 0:58:22 | |
Now she was a city to avoid. | 0:58:22 | 0:58:24 | |
It seemed like it was the end for Venice, | 0:58:26 | 0:58:31 | |
but the city would make a comeback. | 0:58:31 | 0:58:34 | |
A comeback of the most surprising kind. | 0:58:34 | 0:58:37 | |
Subtitles by Roger Young and Susan Mason, BBC Broadcast 2004 | 0:59:07 | 0:59:13 | |
E-mail us at [email protected] | 0:59:13 | 0:59:16 |