USA Around the World in 80 Gardens


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I believe that a really good way to understand a culture is through its gardens.

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This is an extraordinary journey to visit 80 inspiring gardens from all over the world.

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Some are very well known - the Taj Mahal, the Alhambra.

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And I'm also challenging my idea of what a garden actually is.

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So I'm visiting gardens that float on the Amazon,

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a strange fantasy in the jungle,

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as well as the private homes of great designers,

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and the desert flowering in a garden.

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And wherever I go I shall be meeting people that share my own passion for gardens

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on my epic quest to see the world through 80 of its most fascinating and beautiful gardens.

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If you set yourself to visit 80 gardens around the world,

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then you have to come

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to the richest and most powerful nation in the world.

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America is a country that has been built on optimism,

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amazingly diverse natural resources

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and an enthusiasm that, in my experience,

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empowers it to tackle anything with a real sense of creative purpose

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that is incredibly invigorating.

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And what I want to see on my journey around this vast country

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is how America takes all that wealth,

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all that incredible energy, and expresses it in the garden.

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I'm starting my journey in New York, where garden guerrillas

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are creating community gardens from derelict land.

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Then I shall travel south, to Virginia, to visit a garden

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that embodies the history and birth of the nation.

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Finally, I shall go west

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across to the other side of the continent to California,

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to see gardens touched by the glamour and glitz of show business.

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New York might be synonymous with the cityscape of Manhattan,

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but most of the state is actually very rural,

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and the upstate suburban towns have a very different feel

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to the intense, edgy energy of the city.

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My first garden of this trip is right down at the end of Long Island, in the Hamptons,

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and it's the LongHouse which is the home and garden of the textile designer and weaver, Jack Larsen.

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Now, he is hugely successful,

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and what I want to see is how someone

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who is very successful in one field applies it to their garden.

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It's a garden that self consciously nurtures the other arts.

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In fact, it's even a garden as a gallery.

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Now, nothing could be more different from European gardens,

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and that's why I've come here.

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Larsen began the garden in the mid 1980s,

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expressly as a place to display works of art

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with an eclectic mix of cultures and styles, which, paradoxically,

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seems to me to be a good way to try and pin down some kind of

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American culture and style.

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This is not what I'd expected at all.

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The gardens house temporary and permanent installations from Larsen himself

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and a variety of established artists, like Dale Chihuly,

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who was responsible for this blown-glass sculpture.

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Ooh art!

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Dunno.

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Dunno about that.

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Oh!

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I love this.

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I didn't realise it was so self-consciously and up front a sort of display of artwork.

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Most contemporary sculpture

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is best in the garden.

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It's best in the open air, where you get strong highlight and shadow.

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The changing of different weathers and so forth, times of the day,

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enlivens surfaces that you don't get

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in a museum or gallery,

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and that the organic textural backdrop is kind to these hard forms.

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One thing that I find very attractive

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is that one can be rather spontaneous in gardens.

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I'm a fabric designer, and a design takes at least a year,

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but gardening is much more direct.

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It's like performing art, you get a feedback quickly.

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I like that.

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Isn't that beautiful?

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Isn't that wonderful?

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LongHouse covers nearly 16 acres of East Hampton Great North Woods.

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Since he acquired the land in 1975,

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Larsen has laid out major spaces as settings for plant collections,

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ornamental borders and sculpture.

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Just like a gallery, the artwork comes and goes.

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That's good.

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The rams' heads with the white birch next to it.

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How beautiful is that?

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Well, of course, you get that effect by letting a tree grow and then

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just cutting it off at the base, and it resprouts with multi stems.

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But this has done it so beautifully.

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The great thing about having artwork of any sort in a garden

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is you start to look at planting.

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You start to look at plants as works of art.

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I mean, one wonders which came first - the sculpture or the planting.

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They look like fastigiate hornbeams to me.

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As a gardener, I think the fact these are in pots is really significant.

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It means you can create avenues like this overnight, if you've got the money.

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So, the garden becomes a sort of stage set.

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One of the permanent installations is the red garden,

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which was designed by Larsen himself.

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Now, I like that very much indeed.

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I like that a lot.

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I think it works instantly, partly because it's so simple.

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Brilliant red forms and the clipped azaleas.

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What you don't see from here is the posts, diminished right down,

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to give you the sense of perspective.

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I love the elephant balancing on his trunk.

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The inspiration for the design of the house

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is taken from the seventh-century Shinto shrine at Ise in Japan,

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which is one of Larsen's favourite buildings,

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and the planting around the house is very sculptural and architectural.

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I love looking underneath buildings.

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There's more garden on the other side.

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See, that's great. That's a really, really nice view.

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This has been a fascinating beginning to this journey.

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The mixture and the abundance of everything is quite difficult to absorb.

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But it does seem that what you have here

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is an extraordinary breadth and confidence of vision.

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But Jack Larsen has a large canvas to work with,

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here in the bucolic setting of the New York State countryside.

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Now I want to go to Manhattan and see how gardens are shaping INSIDE the big city.

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New York City is a uniquely dynamic metropolis,

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with eight million inhabitants.

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Manhattan, the central island, is one of the most densely-populated places in the world.

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Any green space is valuable in every sense of the word,

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so any available land that might possibly become real estate

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rarely gets made into private gardens.

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This means for many New Yorkers, Central Park is the only green space they have access to.

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It's a huge rectangle, two and a half miles long by half a mile wide,

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right in the centre of Manhattan,

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and the most widely-visited park in the whole United States.

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It was designed in 1857 by Frederick Olmsted.

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Although it looks very naturalistic,

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it is, in fact, entirely man-made and landscaped.

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This part of Central Park has real meaning for me.

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It's Strawberry Fields, which is the memorial garden to John Lennon,

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who lived in the Dakota Building just across the road.

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Now, John Lennon was a huge hero of mine.

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He influenced me when I was growing up more than anybody else,

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so that his death, and the resulting garden, had great impact,

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and Central Park then becomes personal.

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I guess that's the way people work in vast parks.

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The whole thing is too big, it's too big an idea,

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too big geography to be any kind of garden.

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But people come and take little bits of it,

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and I think that's the way it works in a big city.

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You take bits of public space and you start to possess them,

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even though you don't literally own them,

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and what I'm really interested in doing here in Manhattan

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is seeing how public space can become personal,

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connected to an area and, therefore, be properly called a garden.

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I've come across the East River from Manhattan to Queens, to Gantry Plaza,

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which is a public space designed by the landscape architect Thomas Balsley.

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And I want to meet and talk to him to explore the possibility

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of creating public spaces that have sufficient meaning,

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that they then become, by default, gardens.

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The gantries that give this two-acre park its name

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were used until the 1970s to load railway cars and cargo onto river barges.

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Thomas Balsley is one of America's leading public landscape architects

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and feels his design for Gantry Plaza,

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with its strong links to its history and surroundings,

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transform it into a legitimate garden space for the local community

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in this dense urban landscape.

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I'm really interested in the way that

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a space, a green space, moves from being a park to a garden,

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and, of course, gardens is what I'm interested in.

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What, for you, defines a public garden?

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A garden, when you put that word together with public,

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in my mind, doesn't have to have horticulture at all.

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It's that place where we can all escape our lives,

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our apartments, the places we live, or work, or the streets we walk down,

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and it's that place where we can transport ourselves into another realm.

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If we've done a good job, it's that we have created this common ground

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for people to find themselves and each other and to build social connections.

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I'm really interested how you've created the garden, or the park,

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using the iconography of the place.

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The space must have a meaning. That meaning can be translated in different settings.

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We all wanted to celebrate the heritage of this place.

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The decision to really bring the gantries out front and centre

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came from this need of ours for there to be real icons of this railroad history of this place.

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The more and more we thought about the gantries,

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the gantries are the icon of this place,

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and it didn't require lots of little historical motifs

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to be scattered around to tell the story.

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They tell the story in such a compelling way

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that there was very little more that we could do.

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This is an amazing sight, with that incredible skyline,

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and there are elements here that anybody would recognise as a garden.

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But I feel this is a process,

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and it's one that is very difficult to pin down,

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it's when a garden is not a garden,

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or when it's just an interesting public space.

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That may not matter. I suspect in the scheme of things it's not important.

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If it works and it's enjoyable, so be it.

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But I think I want to take this one step further.

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But is there a way that people can actually possess it from day to day,

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where they can manipulate the change?

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That seems to me the really interesting thing.

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Down on the Lower East Side is the Liz Christy Garden,

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the first community garden to be made in the city.

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Tell me, how did this garden begin?

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What's the history behind it?

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The Liz Christy Garden is the first of the community gardens

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in Manhattan and the five boroughs.

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-Right.

-It was begun by a woman named Liz Christy.

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She and her friends lived in the neighbourhood.

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She was a painter, and I believe she did some kind of social work.

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-When was this?

-1973.

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-Right, '73.

-And she and her friends would make seed bombs and throw them into vacant lots.

-Right.

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And that was one way to reclaim abandoned areas.

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This was owned by the city, and when the Liz Christy Garden began,

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they rented it for about a dollar month, so 12 a year.

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And we, the gardeners, I became a gardener in '85,

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maintained it as a community garden

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before it became officially part of the New York City Parks Department.

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So these gardens went from being vacant lots with seed bombs

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to something that people were prepared to campaign to preserve

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-and spend money to preserve.

-Yeah, right.

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What's their function? What are they for?

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To provide an outlet for our very fundamental human desire

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to dig the dirt and to work with plants.

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And the will to keep them is strong.

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-Didn't Giuliani want to sell them all off?

-Oh, sure he did, exactly.

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There's been always a struggle between developers

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and the interests of developers for housing,

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and I've always said that it's not housing or gardens,

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it's housing AND gardens that people need.

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And housing and noise!

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The soundtrack in this garden is always completely opposite of what you see.

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Well, I like everything about this garden.

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I like the way it looks, I like what they've done to it,

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but above all I like the fact that it exists.

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I even like the traffic hammering behind it because that's what it is.

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It's reclaimed space in the middle of downtown Manhattan,

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and it's a very noisy, busy place.

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It's part of the identity of the gardens.

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But now I'm leaving all that noise and business

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and going south to Maryland,

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to visit one of America's foremost garden designers,

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who is creating gardens that are new and very American.

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This is part of Chesapeake Bay,

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which is the largest estuary in America,

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where the rich and the successful politicians

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come to spend their weekends and their holidays.

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The big Atlantic skies, with its wide horizons and the natural flora,

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drew James van Sweden to this coast,

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about an hour away from his Washington base,

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because it reminded him of the Michigan meadows where he grew up.

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Well, here I am.

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This is James van Sweden's weekend holiday home.

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James van Sweden is one of America's leading landscape designers,

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and has created gardens for Oprah Winfrey and other celebrities.

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His gardens are always natural, free spirited,

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and are designed for low maintenance and high sustainability.

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His work pays homage to the natural grasslands of North America,

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but it's also a reaction against the tightly-mown lawns

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that still dominate the American suburban garden.

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This garden inverts the relationship between houses and gardens

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that I've seen endlessly on the road here,

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where you have mown grass going up to the front door

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and you keep looking for the garden to begin.

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Whereas here, you keep looking for the garden to end.

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But it doesn't, it just dissolves out into the landscape.

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Where you have a garden that merges so completely with the surrounding landscape,

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there can be a bit of confusion about what's garden and what's not garden,

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and just by cutting this curving path through the grass

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it brilliantly defines the space around it, it makes it into a garden.

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It's not a lot, but it's enough.

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When you came here, did you have in your mind what you wanted to do?

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I did. When I bought this land it was empty and flat.

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And what I wanted to do was build a house that floated over a meadow,

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and I thought this was the perfect place to do it.

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Now, for clients you often have to design a very gardenesque kind of garden, you know, pretty.

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But I wanted a garden that was not pretty.

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In fact, I said, "I want an ugly garden,

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"I'm so sick of pretty, pretty."

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And so I designed a garden that I thought was tough, was sustainable,

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and I have no watering, I don't water anything here.

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Not having chemicals and just a minimum of weeding...

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I'm very flexible about weeds,

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so that's why the whole garden looks quite a bit like a meadow.

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One thing about having no lawn, it brings nature right up to the house.

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Snakes, foxes, turkeys...

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I have wild turkeys walking right by, ten feet from the windows.

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I have deer coming up. It's fantastic, it's just wonderful.

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But it terrifies Americans, I think, to some extent.

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Driving along and seeing these very large houses often,

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with no cultivated garden, there'll be lawn mown outside,

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is a very strange experience for a European.

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Why is it that you think the garden culture doesn't seem to express itself very freely here?

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I don't think Americans necessarily want to be outside.

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When they are outside they want to play golf and they want to swim and so on, and play.

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But I don't think they really want to garden. I think it's too much work.

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It's very hot so they don't want to be outside.

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They're also afraid of a bug.

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They're afraid they'll be cold or hot, whatever.

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So it's not really a gardening country.

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This garden is a synthesis

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of the very modern and natural indigenous plants,

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taking a garden with huge skill to make it look effortless

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and carefree, and it's brilliant, I think.

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It works wonderfully well and is a real model for the way gardens could go.

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But now, from here, I'm going to go back in time.

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I want to go back to the roots of modern America,

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to perhaps the most famous American garden of all,

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which is the garden of Thomas Jefferson, at Monticello.

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Monticello is 100 miles

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south-west of Washington,

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in Charlottesville, Virginia,

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and this grand neo-classical mansion

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has become a symbol of nationhood and independence.

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Monticello was one of those places

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that I knew I absolutely must visit when I came here to the States.

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It was created and lived in by Thomas Jefferson, who was an extraordinary man.

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He was the third president of the United States,

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and the author of the Declaration of Independence.

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He was also a great gardener, a horticulturist, a landscaper and architect,

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a man with furious curiosity and energy,

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and he believed that plants had social significance.

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So what we have here at Monticello is not just a garden

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but also the founding of modern America.

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His energy and curiosity were boundless,

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and everything at Monticello is a testament to this.

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Jefferson began the Palladian villa in 1767 and worked on it,

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designing every quirky detail, for the next 40 years.

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This was his home, a sanctuary away from the demands of public life,

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but it was also always a place of almost manic work.

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He was a polymath, spoke seven languages,

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was versed in all the sciences and recorded everything he ever did.

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And if that wasn't enough, he was also, like me,

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passionate about growing vegetables.

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It's been very, very dry, so the garden is quite empty,

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but as a vegetable gardener that doesn't matter at all,

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it's still fascinating.

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It's actually quite wide. It's a hugely long space.

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These 24 squares - each of them is about half an allotment.

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And as well as this huge vegetable garden terrace,

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there's an eight-acre fruit garden and a large floral garden,

0:25:450:25:49

which were all part of the original 5,000-acre plantation.

0:25:490:25:52

Peter Hatch is the director of gardens and has written several books about Jefferson.

0:25:520:25:57

Now, I think it's clear that this wasn't a fancy garden,

0:25:570:26:02

where an ex-president pottered out his waning years.

0:26:020:26:05

There was a much more serious purpose to it.

0:26:050:26:07

I think there was a real profound function

0:26:070:26:09

that Jefferson was experimenting in order to sort of transform

0:26:090:26:13

the socio and economic culture of this new country he was working on.

0:26:130:26:17

I'll just stop you there for a moment because that is

0:26:170:26:20

A, an extraordinary statement, it's a really big idea.

0:26:200:26:24

Jefferson said the greatest service which can be rendered to any country

0:26:240:26:29

is to add a useful plant to its culture,

0:26:290:26:31

and a lot of these were kitchen vegetables that he planted

0:26:310:26:35

in this kitchen garden that's so remarkable at Monticello.

0:26:350:26:38

This was really a revolutionary garden in the way that it contained

0:26:380:26:42

330 varieties of 170 species of vegetables,

0:26:420:26:47

and he was growing really new things in this garden,

0:26:470:26:51

unusual plants that came, literally, from around the world.

0:26:510:26:54

330 different varieties of vegetable. That's not necessary.

0:26:540:26:59

That's interesting, but it's obsessive, isn't it?

0:26:590:27:02

Right. I think he grew 38 varieties of peach,

0:27:020:27:05

or 27 varieties of bean, and then would winnow out the inferior types.

0:27:050:27:09

-So this was an experimental laboratory.

-Right.

0:27:090:27:12

Now, here in what one might call the floral part of the garden,

0:27:140:27:20

what was Jefferson's thinking and how did it evolve?

0:27:200:27:25

He planted all the flowerbeds first,

0:27:250:27:27

as he was about to retire from the presidency,

0:27:270:27:30

and there were 20 oval flowerbeds.

0:27:300:27:32

He planted them and went back to Washington.

0:27:320:27:34

His daughter wrote to him and said the bulbs had done splendidly

0:27:340:27:38

but none of the seeds had come up.

0:27:380:27:40

Despite that temporary setback he said, "I need more room for a greater variety of flowers."

0:27:400:27:45

He sketched a plan with a border alongside of it.

0:27:450:27:47

One garden writer said Jefferson was like all good gardeners,

0:27:470:27:51

when he couldn't successfully garden in a small space,

0:27:510:27:54

he just decided to make it three times larger.

0:27:540:27:56

It's exactly the truth!

0:27:560:27:57

In its day, Monticello was a frontier garden.

0:28:030:28:06

To its west lay largely undiscovered land for Europeans.

0:28:060:28:11

But for the man who wrote that, "All men are created equal",

0:28:110:28:15

Jefferson's Monticello enshrined the deepest of American dilemmas.

0:28:150:28:19

All the way along this mulberry avenue were buildings,

0:28:200:28:23

and in those buildings, all the needs of the estate were serviced,

0:28:230:28:27

from making nails to splitting wood, and also lived slaves.

0:28:270:28:33

Now, there were about 100 slaves working here at Monticello,

0:28:330:28:38

which, for the man who wrote the Declaration of Independence,

0:28:380:28:43

is confusing to the modern mind.

0:28:430:28:46

Slaves were a largely accepted element of 18th and 19th-century life in the American south,

0:28:480:28:55

and although Jefferson wrote and spoke against the evils of slavery,

0:28:550:29:00

the bald fact remains that Monticello depended upon slave labour

0:29:000:29:05

for its creation and maintenance.

0:29:050:29:08

This is a beautifully-restored and maintained late-18th century garden,

0:29:100:29:17

set in the glorious Virginia countryside and, as such, is worth a visit.

0:29:170:29:21

But what makes it really special is the extraordinary man that made it.

0:29:210:29:27

There's still something slightly austere about Jefferson,

0:29:270:29:30

something almost ruthless at the heart of it.

0:29:300:29:33

Again, I suspect that's to do with being a successful politician.

0:29:330:29:38

But what it did do in its age was to inspire people

0:29:380:29:43

to go out and conquer what they saw as wilderness,

0:29:430:29:48

and set up a series of settlements, increasingly further west.

0:29:480:29:54

So now I'm going in the footsteps of those early settlers,

0:29:560:29:59

as they struck out westwards into what is now called Kansas.

0:29:590:30:03

Kansas takes its name from the Kansa tribe,

0:30:040:30:08

who inhabited the area long before Europeans arrived,

0:30:080:30:11

and for thousands of years native Americans had lived in this stunning landscape.

0:30:110:30:15

However, as the emerging nation expanded into the prairies of the mid-west,

0:30:150:30:20

their way of life would be changed forever.

0:30:200:30:23

Jefferson encouraged and sponsored the exploration of the west,

0:30:250:30:30

and following this were settlers,

0:30:300:30:33

forever moving inexorably westward looking for more land,

0:30:330:30:37

and there was, seemingly, a limitless amount of it.

0:30:370:30:40

And they came to the prairies,

0:30:400:30:43

thousands of square miles of rolling grass.

0:30:430:30:47

These vast grasslands once stretched unbroken for hundreds of miles across the continent's interior,

0:30:480:30:54

and when this landscape was first seen by the French explorers,

0:30:540:30:58

they called the sea of grass "prairie", the French term for "meadow".

0:30:580:31:03

Seeing this trail wind through the grasses,

0:31:040:31:08

you see exactly the inspiration

0:31:080:31:10

that James van Sweden has taken and used in his garden.

0:31:100:31:15

Native Americans lived harmoniously with this landscape,

0:31:180:31:22

and the ecosystem was sustained by a cycle of natural fires

0:31:220:31:26

and the grazing by tens of thousands of wild buffalo.

0:31:260:31:29

Today, the buffalo and the indigenous people have all but gone,

0:31:290:31:32

as well as most of the prairie,

0:31:320:31:35

but what remains still has to be sensitively managed.

0:31:350:31:39

Only 2% of the 19th-century grasslands remain, and two thirds of that is being preserved here,

0:31:390:31:44

the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve.

0:31:440:31:48

Ron Clark is one of the park rangers.

0:31:480:31:52

The prairie can contain about 60 different types of grasses.

0:31:520:31:55

We have approximately 40 that we've identified,

0:31:550:31:59

but we have four that we consider our signature grasses,

0:31:590:32:02

and those, of course, are the two blue stems, big and little, Indian and switchgrass.

0:32:020:32:07

The blue grass has these very deep roots, I understand.

0:32:070:32:11

Exactly. Most of these grasses root down at least eight feet.

0:32:110:32:15

Some of them can go down to 15 or 16 feet.

0:32:150:32:18

80% of the plant is actually under your feet.

0:32:180:32:22

And the grasses are extraordinarily subtle and beautiful.

0:32:220:32:27

They repay you steady, don't they?

0:32:270:32:30

I think this is the prettiest time of the year here.

0:32:300:32:32

They're just so majestic.

0:32:330:32:35

Standing here, the grasses are taller than us.

0:32:410:32:44

Yes. The one right behind you is just about your height.

0:32:440:32:47

One at the back, that's old big blue stem.

0:32:470:32:49

-Right.

-And this time of year you really don't see that blue stem colour, mid summer.

0:32:490:32:55

This stock has a kind of blueish-green colour to it.

0:32:550:32:58

Now, this grass is called turkeyfoot.

0:32:580:33:00

It's one of our big four, right here, a big blue stem.

0:33:000:33:05

Right in front of us here, I see some Indian grass,

0:33:050:33:08

which people who had a good imagination thought looked like the feather of an Indian.

0:33:080:33:12

The science community tells us that only the rainforest has a greater diversity than the prairie.

0:33:120:33:19

-Really?

-That's something that people have a hard time understanding

0:33:190:33:24

or even contemplating, because they just see it as a grassland,

0:33:240:33:28

that's got a few steers out on it, and a coyote or two,

0:33:280:33:32

but, actually, if you spend any time here, every rock has life under it.

0:33:320:33:37

Yeah. Yeah.

0:33:370:33:38

OK, as we kind of walk down out of the prairie,

0:33:390:33:42

you begin to pick up the woody vegetation, trees to our left,

0:33:420:33:45

and this beautiful red-leafed plant called sumac.

0:33:450:33:49

It's an astonishing colour.

0:33:490:33:51

It's an interesting plant. It's very pretty,

0:33:510:33:53

-and we like to see it on the prairie. It belongs here.

-Yeah.

0:33:530:33:56

I'm so glad that I came out here

0:34:070:34:11

to the Kansas prairies.

0:34:110:34:14

It puts everything into context and takes plants that you can see

0:34:140:34:18

and admire in a garden and gives them another dimension.

0:34:180:34:22

But the thing that changed this prairie,

0:34:220:34:26

it probably changed this country, actually,

0:34:260:34:28

more than anything else as it developed,

0:34:280:34:32

was the railroad.

0:34:320:34:33

The final leg of my journey is on to the west coast and California.

0:34:360:34:40

Modern transport is dominated by the aeroplane and the motor car,

0:34:440:34:48

but in the pioneer days it was the railroad that truly opened up the west.

0:34:480:34:52

Henry Huntingdon was a railroad magnate,

0:34:550:34:58

and he used the vast wealth that he accrued

0:34:580:35:01

to finance his collections of manuscripts, paintings, rare books and plants.

0:35:010:35:06

In 1904, he met a talented gardener named William Hertrich,

0:35:070:35:11

whom he charged to build the most beautiful garden in California.

0:35:110:35:15

The result is the Huntingdon Botanical Gardens.

0:35:150:35:18

The thing that has drawn me here, first of all in California,

0:35:230:35:27

is because it seems to me an extraordinary thing that Huntingdon,

0:35:270:35:31

who had so much power, who blazed a trail into California,

0:35:310:35:36

who loved California, decided to build a garden as his memorial.

0:35:360:35:41

He didn't just build any old garden, he built a garden on a grand scale,

0:35:440:35:47

bearing in mind California was only part of the US from 1850 onwards.

0:35:470:35:51

So it was an amazingly optimistic, grand gesture.

0:35:510:35:57

Huntingdon's Botanic Garden covers 127 acres,

0:36:030:36:08

with over 15,000 species of plants divided amongst 12 themed areas.

0:36:080:36:12

The desert garden is 100 years old,

0:36:120:36:15

and one of the oldest collections of cacti and succulents in the world.

0:36:150:36:19

Mmm.

0:36:210:36:23

Many of these cacti are night blooming.

0:36:250:36:28

So this wonderful, extraordinary flower is only open now

0:36:280:36:33

because it's rather a grey, chilly morning,

0:36:330:36:36

and, for once, I'm glad that the sun is slow to come out

0:36:360:36:39

because when it gets sunny, which it will do later on,

0:36:390:36:42

that will just close up.

0:36:420:36:44

But I confess that these are plants

0:36:470:36:49

as far from my own familiar botanical terms of reference

0:36:490:36:52

as anything found outside a coral reef

0:36:520:36:54

and to help me find out more about the garden and its plants,

0:36:540:36:57

I met up with Jim Folsam,

0:36:570:36:59

who's been director of gardens here for the past 23 years.

0:36:590:37:02

I'm intrigued that the place existed at all.

0:37:040:37:08

What did Huntingdon expect people to get out of this?

0:37:080:37:12

What was the purpose?

0:37:120:37:13

One of the things that we've lost, "we" in the broader sense,

0:37:130:37:17

is a feeling that an earlier generation had

0:37:170:37:20

that plants were important,

0:37:200:37:22

and that plants were almost important from an imperial sense,

0:37:220:37:25

and he felt that this was the new world, southern California.

0:37:250:37:29

If you could grow anything here, then you could be anybody, couldn't you?

0:37:290:37:33

The collections were an expression of what southern California can do.

0:37:330:37:37

You can grow all these plants, so you can do something wonderful, can't you?

0:37:370:37:41

It's partly, as you say, a sort of imperial statement.

0:37:430:37:47

It's partly an expression of sort of energetic optimism.

0:37:470:37:52

An understanding modern society has lost,

0:37:520:37:54

the understanding that plants are important.

0:37:540:37:56

Now, that looks, to me, terribly like a London plane,

0:38:000:38:03

and yet I can't imagine what you would want with a London plane tree in this environment.

0:38:030:38:08

Well, of course it's the more rugged, western cousin, of the hybrid regimented London plane,

0:38:080:38:15

and this is the way the tree looks in nature.

0:38:150:38:17

This is one of the few trees that was on the property when Huntingdon bought it.

0:38:170:38:21

It still looks incongruous to me, I have to say!

0:38:210:38:24

It looks perfectly natural here!

0:38:240:38:26

If you understand how your garden works,

0:38:340:38:37

you have gained a lot of understanding in science and culture

0:38:370:38:41

and a lot of understanding in just practical matters.

0:38:410:38:44

So, we hope that what we can do is we can cause people

0:38:440:38:49

to love to learn more about the world around them through their garden.

0:38:490:38:53

I confess that I'm feeling pretty shattered.

0:39:030:39:06

To try and take in ten acres of succulent plants that you're not very familiar with,

0:39:060:39:13

and that's less than one tenth of the whole Huntingdon estate, is exhausting.

0:39:130:39:19

But it's a great way to be introduced to California and its gardens.

0:39:190:39:25

It's a vast place, and the one message that comes through this

0:39:250:39:29

is the sense that the weather, and the land, and the general atmosphere,

0:39:290:39:35

the sense of possibilities here, are limitless.

0:39:350:39:38

And all that optimism, combined with the marvellous weather,

0:39:380:39:44

is really what drew the movie business here,

0:39:440:39:46

just after the First World War.

0:39:460:39:48

The next garden I want to go and see is one made by an entertainer.

0:39:480:39:53

The 1920s and '30s were the golden age of cinema in California.

0:39:590:40:03

Movie moguls and Hollywood stars built palatial homes

0:40:030:40:06

with suitably luxuriant gardens.

0:40:060:40:09

It was a time of extravagance and glamour, a period when

0:40:090:40:12

celebrities would flaunt their wealth through their gardens.

0:40:120:40:16

I've come here to Lotusland in Santa Barbara

0:40:250:40:29

because it is one of the very few gardens

0:40:290:40:31

that survived from the heyday of Hollywood.

0:40:310:40:34

And what we see now is down to one extraordinary woman,

0:40:340:40:39

called Madame Ganna Walska.

0:40:390:40:41

Ganna Walska was a Polish opera diva who married six times,

0:40:450:40:49

obviously wisely, if not successfully,

0:40:490:40:52

because she accumulated great wealth in the process.

0:40:520:40:55

She bought the property in 1941 and immediately began to renovate its grounds.

0:40:550:40:59

And today, Lotusland is 37-acre estate

0:40:590:41:03

made up of over 20 idiosyncratic gardens,

0:41:030:41:05

and it's become famous for its botanical diversity and richness.

0:41:050:41:09

A-ha.

0:41:120:41:15

Now, I've read that this used to be the original swimming pool

0:41:150:41:19

and it's been created into a series of ponds, not least to house the lotus,

0:41:190:41:25

which gives the garden its name, Lotusland.

0:41:250:41:28

The blue garden was one of the first of its kind

0:41:330:41:36

and created almost entirely without flowers,

0:41:360:41:39

and its weave of glaucous foliage, all intermeshes subtly,

0:41:390:41:43

set against a very yellow-green backdrop,

0:41:430:41:46

and it's one of a whole series of individual gardens,

0:41:460:41:50

each which has its own theme.

0:41:500:41:52

It's not just the physical scale of this garden.

0:41:540:41:58

Whether you like it or not, it's this mix.

0:41:580:42:02

Here am I, looking out on sort of a bit of Islamic garden

0:42:020:42:05

and a bit of Italianate garden,

0:42:050:42:07

and then there's a zoo or something in topiary down there.

0:42:070:42:10

Now, I actually really like it.

0:42:100:42:12

I like the kitschness, I like the sort of way it's all pulled together

0:42:120:42:16

in this quirky jingle-jangle of plants

0:42:160:42:20

because underneath that is a really assured performance,

0:42:200:42:23

as if someone's saying, "We're putting on a show and we're good at it.

0:42:230:42:27

"Stand back because you're going to be amazed."

0:42:270:42:29

But I'm curious to find out how a singing diva

0:42:350:42:38

came to create such an array of gardens on such a scale.

0:42:380:42:42

Ganna Walska's niece, Hania, grew up at Lotusland,

0:42:420:42:46

and her first wedding took place here, too.

0:42:460:42:48

What was it like growing up in this extraordinary garden?

0:42:480:42:51

Well, my friends, who I would invite for a swim,

0:42:510:42:54

were always kind of shy when they walked in here,

0:42:540:42:59

and it was kind of overwhelming for my teenage friends

0:42:590:43:02

when I would have a party here.

0:43:020:43:04

They were quite overwhelmed.

0:43:040:43:06

What was your aunt like as a person?

0:43:060:43:08

It's hard to describe my aunt.

0:43:080:43:10

She'd sort of the life of the party.

0:43:100:43:12

Let's put it this way, when she walked in, everybody knew.

0:43:120:43:15

I don't know why but they all stopped talking when she walked in,

0:43:150:43:19

and she was such a strong personality.

0:43:190:43:21

And it was extraordinary back then

0:43:210:43:23

that somebody like her should become so involved in gardening

0:43:230:43:28

because she became effectively the head gardener, didn't she?

0:43:280:43:31

Yes, she did, actually.

0:43:310:43:33

No-one was allowed to touch anything, or move anything,

0:43:330:43:36

or plant anything, or cut anything without her specific permission.

0:43:360:43:41

If it was a question of planting, she'd say, "Dig a hole, then wait."

0:43:410:43:46

Then she'd walk around the garden.

0:43:460:43:49

Two hours later she'd come back, the gardener's standing over the hole,

0:43:490:43:53

and she'll say, "All right, now put the plant in and I'll come back and look."

0:43:530:43:57

So, she puts the plant in the hole, then she'll come back an hour later

0:43:570:44:01

and she says, "No. More to the left. I'll be back."

0:44:010:44:05

I think, perhaps more than any other garden, this is specifically hers

0:44:120:44:18

because other gardeners may have landscape designers, you know,

0:44:180:44:22

and she did,

0:44:220:44:24

but she wouldn't take their word for it!

0:44:240:44:27

She would get their plans, and then she would change them!

0:44:270:44:31

I think I'm beginning to understand how Madame Walska got through her six husbands.

0:44:330:44:38

But there's no question that her approach has led to

0:44:380:44:40

a very individual garden, and that's always good.

0:44:400:44:44

Now this is very weird,

0:44:490:44:51

although I like that lion, with his shaggy mane.

0:44:510:44:55

Here we have a set of slightly Disneyfied animals, topiary,

0:44:550:45:00

and this enormous clock in the middle.

0:45:000:45:03

I think this is Madame having fun, and she did everything big.

0:45:060:45:11

So if she's going to do tacky, do it big.

0:45:110:45:15

This is the aloe garden,

0:45:260:45:28

with a large collection of aloes.

0:45:280:45:32

But it is centred around, and dominated by,

0:45:320:45:38

a pool of such monstrous hideosity

0:45:380:45:44

that it's hard to see the plants for what they are, which is fascinating.

0:45:440:45:49

But it's interesting.

0:45:500:45:52

I'm amazed.

0:46:010:46:03

Here we have a garden where money seems to be no object,

0:46:160:46:20

where ambition doesn't stop anything,

0:46:200:46:23

where everything is unfettered, including taste.

0:46:230:46:26

And that is a real picture of America and its optimism and energy

0:46:260:46:32

in the '40s and '50s and '60s.

0:46:320:46:35

And I think the next step, whilst I'm here in California,

0:46:350:46:38

is to see what people are doing with their money and energy in the modern day.

0:46:380:46:44

The movies are still the driving force

0:46:510:46:53

behind the cultural and economic life of California,

0:46:530:46:56

and the next garden I'm going to see belongs to the director

0:46:560:46:59

who made the huge Hollywood blockbusters,

0:46:590:47:02

Independence Day, The Patriot and Stargate.

0:47:020:47:05

I'm fascinated to see what he's done with his garden.

0:47:050:47:08

Here, right in Hollywood, we have the homes of the rich and the powerful in the movie business.

0:47:130:47:20

Next door is the house and garden of Dame Helen Mirren,

0:47:200:47:23

and this one belongs to the director, Roland Emmerich.

0:47:230:47:27

But when he bought it, it was actually very destitute and rundown,

0:47:270:47:30

so he was going to revamp the whole thing,

0:47:300:47:33

and he hired a garden designer and gave her very specific instructions.

0:47:330:47:36

He said he wanted her to create something that evoked the glamour of a 1920s starlet.

0:47:360:47:43

He wanted a garden that was exotic and other-worldly.

0:47:430:47:48

Compared to Lotusland, this is a relatively small garden.

0:48:020:48:05

It's only a couple of acres.

0:48:050:48:07

But actually everything about it is on a colossal scale.

0:48:070:48:11

Apparently it needed an enormous crane to bring in

0:48:110:48:14

these enormous trees, and the expenditure matches it.

0:48:140:48:18

The initial flush of pots set them back 100,000,

0:48:180:48:21

and then they got more.

0:48:210:48:22

The total cost of the garden came to round about 3 million.

0:48:220:48:27

Now, another aspect of the brief was that Roland wanted the view blocked because he didn't like it,

0:48:310:48:36

and he also wanted to make sure people couldn't look in,

0:48:360:48:39

so he had complete privacy,

0:48:390:48:41

not least from the paparazzi, as film stars often come and stay here.

0:48:410:48:46

And he wanted that NOW.

0:48:460:48:48

He wanted his mature garden as quickly as possible.

0:48:480:48:51

Well, of course, the only way you can do that

0:48:510:48:54

is by buying in enormous trees, which they've done.

0:48:540:48:57

So, money, power and the positive thinking

0:48:570:49:01

can create an extraordinary garden like that.

0:49:010:49:06

The garden is designed around a central stairway

0:49:120:49:15

that leads from the front door,

0:49:150:49:17

right the way down through the middle of the garden,

0:49:170:49:20

to the pool, the archetypal Hollywood swimming pool.

0:49:200:49:25

Now, I confess that I came here prepared to mock.

0:49:250:49:30

I somehow couldn't believe that all that I'd heard about this garden,

0:49:300:49:34

the energy, the desire to have it completed fast,

0:49:340:49:38

the money that it cost,

0:49:380:49:40

could result in anything that wasn't a bit brash, a bit vulgar.

0:49:400:49:45

But, actually, I was completely wrong.

0:49:450:49:48

It's fantastic.

0:49:480:49:50

When you consider the brief of this garden, to make something that

0:50:080:50:12

evoked a glamorous 1920s starlet, something exotic and other worldly,

0:50:120:50:17

the designer could have been forgiven for chucking colour at it.

0:50:170:50:20

Actually it's much more restrained.

0:50:200:50:22

It's all gradations of green, and what that gives it,

0:50:220:50:27

other than a sense of great peacefulness,

0:50:270:50:29

is substance, almost dignity.

0:50:290:50:32

And instead of being blousy with colour,

0:50:320:50:36

the few dots of brilliant flowers are like jewels,

0:50:360:50:38

jewels against the starlet's beautifully-cut frock.

0:50:380:50:43

I've really enjoyed this garden.

0:50:590:51:01

I like almost everything about it, and I particularly like

0:51:010:51:04

the way that it uses restraint, combined with confidence.

0:51:040:51:10

Now, it's not a gardener's garden.

0:51:100:51:12

There's nothing to do and there's no sense of it

0:51:120:51:15

growing and being nurtured by an individual hand.

0:51:150:51:18

But it's a performance, like everything here in Hollywood,

0:51:180:51:22

and I think the most appropriate response is just to applaud.

0:51:220:51:25

However, when I left Lotusland I said I wanted to see what was going on now,

0:51:250:51:30

and this garden draws a lot of its inspiration from the past.

0:51:300:51:33

There is a sort of retrospective feel about it,

0:51:330:51:36

and before I leave Hollywood,

0:51:360:51:37

I want to see something truly modern,

0:51:370:51:40

to see what people are looking forward to.

0:51:400:51:43

I'm off to Brentwood in the west of the city,

0:51:490:51:51

one of LA's most affluent suburbs,

0:51:510:51:53

to visit a garden that represents a dramatic break with the past.

0:51:530:51:57

The owners of this house and garden, the Greenbergs, having reached retirement age,

0:51:570:52:02

decided to start all over again and pull down the home they'd raised their family in

0:52:020:52:07

and rebuild a new, very modern house, literally in its place.

0:52:070:52:11

Walking in here I'm immediately struck by the great slabs

0:52:200:52:24

of colour on the surfaces and the build up of shapes,

0:52:240:52:27

and these fantastic palms!

0:52:270:52:31

I find it an extraordinary notion

0:52:500:52:52

that on this site was the family home where the children grew up,

0:52:520:52:57

with all the memories and associations,

0:52:570:53:00

and yet it was felt an exciting thing to do

0:53:000:53:05

to scrub it all away and reinvent themselves, to build something new.

0:53:050:53:10

And that kind of optimism and bravery

0:53:100:53:13

seems to me to be very Californian.

0:53:130:53:16

This boldness of vision led the owners to collaborate

0:53:250:53:28

with the Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta.

0:53:280:53:31

He's famous for using elements of Mexican regional architecture in his work,

0:53:310:53:36

including bright colours and plays of light and shadow.

0:53:360:53:39

The wonderful garden, however, is the work of the landscape architect Mia Lehrer.

0:53:390:53:45

It was a wonderful sort of

0:53:450:53:48

experience working with Mr Legorreta,

0:53:480:53:51

and working with the Greenbergs.

0:53:510:53:53

They really responded to the notion that the garden

0:53:530:53:58

and the house had to have sort of an equal billing, so to speak.

0:53:580:54:04

Some of my gardens, and especially this one, was relatively instant.

0:54:060:54:12

The fact that you can roll out a lawn,

0:54:120:54:15

you know, and actually, to a degree, Hollywood plays a part in this.

0:54:150:54:21

You know, the instant gardens that need to be created

0:54:210:54:25

for drama, film and TV

0:54:250:54:30

have become sort of an expectation in my world,

0:54:300:54:34

for a certain level of client.

0:54:340:54:37

-All the trees around the house were actually saved from the original property.

-Really?

0:54:530:55:00

It occurred to me that we could bank, so to speak,

0:55:000:55:04

the large existing specimen trees and work with them,

0:55:040:55:10

and that that would be a wonderful way of bringing

0:55:100:55:13

what was part of the original family place back

0:55:130:55:18

and integrate that into the garden.

0:55:180:55:22

We had these two beautiful jacaranda trees, in this courtyard.

0:55:220:55:27

We had the scattering of Washingtonia palms throughout the site,

0:55:270:55:33

and we decided to plant them before the house was built.

0:55:330:55:38

So literally locate them, with a surveyor,

0:55:380:55:42

in their location on the plan and then build the house around it.

0:55:420:55:47

I think one of the ultimate compliments I ever got was when

0:55:500:55:55

Mr Legorreta walked around the house after it was done and we had a party,

0:55:550:56:00

and he said, "You know, this is a garden with a house,

0:56:000:56:05

"not a house with a garden."

0:56:050:56:08

This is the best place to see the garden.

0:56:290:56:31

It looks absolutely fantastic from here, and, significantly,

0:56:310:56:36

the best place to see it from is the swimming pool.

0:56:360:56:40

Swimming pools are right at the heart of

0:56:400:56:43

the whole Californian lifestyle, really,

0:56:430:56:45

certainly of homes and gardens.

0:56:450:56:47

And the very European idea of garden rooms,

0:56:530:56:56

where you have compartments where you discover

0:56:560:56:58

separate sections of the garden, is totally absent from here.

0:56:580:57:02

The whole thing is open, open to the eye and, above all, open to the sun.

0:57:020:57:07

And yet it works together with its various sections

0:57:070:57:11

in a very balanced, harmonious way.

0:57:110:57:14

The thing I most like about this garden

0:57:140:57:17

is not actually just the physical layout,

0:57:170:57:19

which I think is beautiful, but it's the spirit behind it.

0:57:190:57:22

It seems to me this garden represents that very Californian spirit,

0:57:220:57:28

that if you've got the energy, the optimism and the money,

0:57:280:57:33

then you can do anything.

0:57:330:57:35

This is the end of my journey across America,

0:57:420:57:45

and I've visited some amazing gardens

0:57:450:57:47

that reflect the diversity and energy and of its people.

0:57:470:57:51

But the truth is that the wider American public are slow to embrace the concept

0:57:510:57:55

of tending for their land as part of a sense of personal responsibility and pleasure.

0:57:550:58:01

However, there is a movement in America that

0:58:010:58:04

is starting to think about issues of sustainability and stewardship,

0:58:040:58:08

which can be best expressed through the daily care of a domestic garden.

0:58:080:58:12

I think if America got gardening,

0:58:120:58:15

this idea of a sort of generous nurturing of the soil

0:58:150:58:18

that we'd all benefit from, then that could change the world.

0:58:180:58:22

Next time, my journey takes me to the Far East,

0:58:240:58:28

where I'll travel through China and then on to Japan,

0:58:280:58:31

to uncover the history and meaning of their enigmatic gardens.

0:58:310:58:37

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:58:430:58:46

Email [email protected]

0:58:460:58:49

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