Essex Glorious Gardens from Above


Essex

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Britain has some of the finest gardens anywhere in the world.

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For me, it's about getting in amongst the wonderful plants

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that flourish in this country and sharing the passion

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of the people who tend them.

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However, there is another way to enjoy a garden.

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And that's to get up above it.

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I love ballooning because you get to see the world below

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in a whole new light.

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From up here, you get a real sense of how the garden sits in the

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landscape, how the terrain and the climate has shaped it,

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and I want you to share that experience with me.

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I'm taking to the skies over a county on the south eastern

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edge of the country. And what a surprise it is.

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I'll show you a wonderful open, rural landscape, bisected by

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waterways and bounded by 350 miles of coastland,

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with the Thames providing a direct link into the heart of London.

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Today, I'm visiting Essex.

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In the north of the county,

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you've got the beautiful Epping Forest.

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In the far south, the Thames Estuary and on the east, mile upon mile

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of marshland and mudflats.

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What a view!

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I want to show you how different this county is

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from the suburban outposts of London we sometimes imagine.

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It's the maritime geography of Essex that creates a temperate climate.

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It's one of the driest counties in the country

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and that makes for some fascinating gardens.

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Today, I'll be seeing how two beautiful gardens are flourishing

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here despite the low rainfall.

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The first belongs to a woman who's inspired a whole generation

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to get more creative in the garden.

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See, I like that, I like that.

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And I find out from one garden curator, who was once a student

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of mine, how his career has flourished.

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I remember as we were sort of dozing off, that you used to sort of

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shout and get us all awake again. So those moments still haunt me.

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-THEY LAUGH

-Pleasantly?

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While we see how keeping the simple traditions

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alive in Essex not only gives us a link to the past,

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but also ensures our future.

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-How is it?

-Lovely.

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Inland, most of Essex is made up of small, traditional villages

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and glorious farmland as far as the eye can see.

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And five miles to the east of Colchester,

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lies a green haven that has a special place in my heart -

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the Beth Chatto Gardens.

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This garden, started in 1960, is world famous for its pioneering,

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naturalistic approach to planting, which changed the way

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people looked at their gardens forever.

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This garden, to me, oozes plantsmanship.

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A lake, woodlands and a dry garden, the like of which you won't

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see anywhere else. It's exciting,

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it's invigorating and I can't wait to get down there.

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This glorious place is a testament to the vision of Beth Chatto

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and her farmer husband, Andrew,

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who were determined to make a garden grow out of an arid wilderness.

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Today, you just have to marvel at the way Beth makes plants flourish.

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It's her simple philosophy to grow

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plants in exactly the same conditions as

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they would have done in the wild.

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And, in doing that, she's turned what was once a wasteland

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into a wonderful garden.

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Beth Chatto's right plant, right place.

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But we seldom see it.

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But here, in her garden, it exudes from every single bed

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and is a testament to Beth's genius.

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She's probably most famous for creating this Gravel Garden,

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which proves her theory beautifully.

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It's full to bursting with all manner of fantastic plants,

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despite the fact it's never been artificially watered.

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In contrast, there's a Water Garden, where clusters of

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irises and other plants make beautiful swathes of

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colour and texture around four ponds.

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It's like finding an oasis in a parched landscape.

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And in the glorious gloom of the Woodland Garden,

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you'll discover shade-loving plants at their very best.

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Beth Chatto has had no formal horticultural training,

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but has a creative eye for what works.

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And she isn't afraid to experiment,

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and that's what I love about it here.

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But back in 1960, it was hardly an auspicious start.

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Beth moved into a new house with her husband Andrew, a farmer.

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But the house was surrounded by the worst possible growing conditions.

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Dry, gravelly soil and a boggy ditch.

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Most self-respecting gardeners would have run a mile.

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But the couple began planning a garden that would make

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a feature of each difficult area.

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In 1981, a fresh-faced young reporter visited Beth

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to hear about the problems they'd faced. You might recognise him.

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You think that you've got a problem garden.

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Can you imagine trying to make a garden out of this?

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It's a piece of wilderness that's got in it every

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kind of perennial weed you can think of.

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Not only did she have an enormous weed problem,

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but she also had a pretty rotten soil.

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Just look at this.

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Beth and Andrew worked with the problem areas in their garden,

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rather than trying to fix them.

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Andrew researched the wild background of plants,

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collected specimens from all over the world and Beth created

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artistic displays of unusual specie plants

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rather than the colourful cultivars popular in the 1970s and '80s.

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For me, it is the shape of a plant which is the most important,

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the texture, the foliage,

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and so I like to build up contrasting shapes.

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Fine leaves, small leaves,

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contrasted with the big leaves of hostas and then occasionally,

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the tall spikes of anything, whether it's a sword-like leaf or

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a fine grass or a foxglove or delphinium, whatever.

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By the time Alan visited,

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Beth had already become a successful gardening author and TV personality.

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Crowds were flocking to visit her garden and she was

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winning gold medals every year at the Chelsea Flower Show.

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But these days, at the age of 91,

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Beth isn't as hands-on as she used to be, leaving some

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pretty big shoes for garden director David Ward to fill.

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-Hi, David, how are you?

-Hello there.

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What are you doing?

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I'm collecting Phlomis russeliana seed.

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'Also known as Turkish sage,

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'this has striking yellow flowers in the summer.'

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Ah, lovely.

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-It's a lovely plant, isn't it?

-Yes, it is.

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I just love how it goes up in rows and rows and rows.

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-Yes, it's such a useful plant.

-I mean, ding, ding, ding.

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I know, I know, it's a fantastic sound, isn't it?

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You can just rattle. FLOWER RATTLES

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-So they're ripe, ready to pick. Yeah.

-Can I help?

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Yes, you certainly can. If you'd like to grab a bag.

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-Great.

-There you go. You can write the name on the bag first.

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-Not very technical.

-Date.

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Yeah, date will be great, yeah.

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'In a garden like this, there's always something to be done.

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'And seeds are gathered

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'and stored, for selling or for re-sowing next season.'

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If you spin 'em round, they just pop out.

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Yeah.

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It's good fun, isn't it, the old, the old twist and shake?

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That's right, yeah.

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How did you come to be here, David?

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Well, I've been working here for over 30 years.

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I actually turned Beth down. I made her wait a year

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-before I came...

-Oh!

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And then I realised I'd probably made a bit of a mistake,

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came back and she very kindly said, "Yes, you can still come along."

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And when I first came here,

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she was totally involved in everything.

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I mean, she had her own ways of doing things.

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She horrified me when I first arrived because

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the sort of way she did cuttings,

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her equipment was a razor blade and a pack of plasters.

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THEY LAUGH

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So I just, I did refuse to go down that route

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-and said, "I prefer to use my knife."

-Yeah.

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It's a wonderful garden, it's a lot of hard work

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and a lot of effort has gone into it.

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Even before I came here, I appreciate that Beth had built up

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a lovely garden and all of us here are quite proud to carry it on.

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David's been around as the garden's evolved over the years,

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playing his part in Beth's more radical schemes.

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The Gravel Garden was created in 1992, on what was once a car park,

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and was an experiment to see which drought-resistant

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sun-lovers would survive, without any form of irrigation.

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During a hot spell in the first two years,

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when the plants were failing and Beth was desperate to water,

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David persuaded her not to.

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It could have all gone horribly wrong,

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but luckily the weather broke and the rest, as they say, is history.

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-Hey, look what I've got here.

-What have you got in there?

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Hey, you've got a right plethora in here.

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-Yes, you will do.

-Look.

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What happens is, you have to leave the bag open

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-and they'll all crawl up.

-Yeah, well we've got shield bugs.

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-Right.

-We've got ladybirds.

-Earwigs, earwigs.

-We've got earwigs.

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Yeah, hey, well, let's go and sort these out

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and let all these bugs out. And shall we have a cup of tea?

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-That sounds a great idea.

-Come on.

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Beth's planting philosophy was heavily influenced

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by a Japanese theory about the three layers of Heaven, Earth and Man.

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And I think this is beautifully illustrated here.

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It draws your eyes up, or down, with something to see at every level.

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And this garden's just full of examples of Beth's

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-triangulation, isn't it?

-It is actually, yeah.

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I mean, we're just walking past a really good example.

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You can see a lovely line.

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It's all about shape, line and form.

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So, from this Cotinus, through the

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Amelanchier, the monkey puzzle, up to the conifer,

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you've got a lovely linear line through there.

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-And the same thing coming down.

-Yes.

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You know, this way, and if you move here,

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you've got the same flipping principle.

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That's right. Whatever way you view it from.

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But so many people, in their garden, I mean, they just plonk plants,

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don't they, without even thinking, really?

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It is. It's not just the tall, medium and short,

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there's a lot more to it than that.

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Yeah, I mean, you can also do it, you know, with plants in pots,

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can't you? Because so many people buy and they don't play.

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I've seen people go to a garden centre and don't, you know.

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It's like sort of putting in regimental sergeant majors.

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They'll put them in a line and you sort of think, actually,

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nice plants but you could so much more with them.

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-That's right.

-And it is just that triangulation, isn't it?

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Sort of contrasting the leaf shapes and the size.

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It's not, you know, it's not rocket science.

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'I don't want to sound bossy but think of all the fun you can have!'

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I love doing this, you know. I love going to garden centres

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and just nicking things off benches and playing to see it, the magic.

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I like that, I like that, I like that.

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Well, another way of doing it, what Beth would do is to say,

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put the grass down here so the line's going like this

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and sort of fill that void in, round there.

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That's what's missing in so many beds, isn't it?

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You don't get the sense of adventure.

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Of being able to, you know, what is just round there?

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-That's right.

-Let's go and get some more plants

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-then we can play a bit more.

-That's a good idea.

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For gardens like this, with plenty of sun

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and a tendency to dry soil,

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sedums are very nearly the perfect plant.

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As well as being drought-resistant and needing very little care,

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this plant will provide gorgeous, colourful flowers in summer,

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and even looks good in the winter.

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The smaller species will give good ground cover,

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and the taller ones are great for cutting and drying.

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And if you need any more persuading,

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they're great for attracting butterflies and bees, too.

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Somehow Beth managed to combine the creation

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and running of this wonderful place with a busy family life.

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Her two daughters and six grandchildren,

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and now their children, have all grown with the garden.

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Julia Bolton is Beth's eldest granddaughter,

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and commercial director at the garden.

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Now you grew up in this very special place.

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What childhood memories have you got?

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You know, a lot of my memories are about parts of the garden

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that no longer exist, so...

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For instance, the Gravel Garden before was the car park, so...

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-Yes.

-So we would play on there, you know, football

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and take our bikes and... But really my very favourite place is here,

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in the Water Garden, where we are right now.

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Throughout their childhood, Julia and her brother spent their

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school holidays here, at a time when Beth was at the height of her career

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doing Chelsea and writing books.

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But for the youngsters, the whole

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gardens stretched out before them like a giant playground.

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Now, Julia's children have the run of the place.

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What I do remember doing was making some

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little boats with my brother. And we used to race them under

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the bridge here. And I wondered if you'd like a challenge, Christine?

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Oh, yes, yes. We can play. Yeah, yeah.

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Jolly good, but I have to warn you,

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I did actually push my brother in once,

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when he was leaning to get his boat, so I don't want any funny business.

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OK. Well if you promise not to push me in, I promise not to push you in.

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-OK. It's a deal.

-Right, come on, let's play.

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Get down there, come on.

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On a count of three. Do you want a count down?

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Yeah.

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One, two, three.

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Oh, look!

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Go on. Get up there.

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Oh, mine wants to stay near me.

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Well, look at that, it's going to catch it up, no, it's not, no,

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-no it is, go on, after it.

-No luck.

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'I can see she's done this before.'

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I think I'm just going to have to admit defeat.

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Admit defeat, yeah.

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-Well...

-You're a good sport.

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Well, you know. It's all very well doing this

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-but now we've got to get up.

-That's right. Come here.

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-THEY LAUGH

-Give us a hand.

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Well, that's fun.

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This garden is filled with happy memories for Julia,

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and she's enormously proud of everything her

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grandmother has achieved. But I'm sure she and Beth have more plans

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up their sleeves.

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What of the future?

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You know, what are you going to do with this garden?

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Well, you know, we get asked that quite a lot

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-because obviously Beth's getting older now.

-Yeah.

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But, you know, gardens change all the time and obviously there's

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going to be carrying on replanting certain areas

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and that kind of thing but it's all in the style of Beth Chatto.

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But one of the things that we are really excited about here

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is that we're setting up an educational charity in

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-Beth Chatto's name.

-Great.

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It's something that we're really, really proud about.

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You see, that's exactly how Beth has spent her life,

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taking little seedlings, growing them on and then seeing them bloom.

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-That's really, really lovely, very special.

-Spot on.

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It is spot on. Yeah, come on, but

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it's not spot on that I didn't win that race, so I want another race.

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-Let's go and get some more boats.

-Come on.

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From the smooth waters of Beth's garden pond,

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it's just a few miles to the River Colne,

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once an important trade route and much more of a

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challenge for the boats that had to navigate its tricky waters.

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From above, you get a spectacular view of the Essex coastline,

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and a real sense of how it's shaped the county's history.

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In the 19th century, these tributaries

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and estuaries that wend their way eastward

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and out to the North Sea, would have been crowded with the distinctive

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red-brown sails of the Thames barges.

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They carried cargoes of brick, grain

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and coal along the Thames Estuary and out to the coast.

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Kitty dates back to 1895,

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and is one of the few restored working barges left.

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Kevin Burtonshaw feels proud to be her current skipper.

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What makes a Thames barge special is it's got a flat bottom.

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So these were able to go up all the little inlets,

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to all the little villages, take the coal,

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you know, goods from London, whatever it might be,

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right up into the little places, and a lot

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of the work of these was what we call stack barges.

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They'd literally carry a haystack, loaded up on their deck,

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about ten-foot-high and they actually had to have a ladder

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to get up on to the top, to see where they were going.

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They'd take it down to London

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and then unload it for the horses in London.

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Then they'd come back with the manure to spread on the field.

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Pick up another stack and off they'd go again.

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So, yeah, they were very, very versatile craft.

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In their heyday, there was about 2,000 of them registered.

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You pretty much wouldn't have been able to go anywhere around

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the east coast without seeing a Thames barge, and you'd

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have seen them as far afield as down in Cornwall, over on the Continent.

0:19:160:19:21

Kitty was even used to take munitions to

0:19:230:19:26

France during World War I.

0:19:260:19:28

But her days were numbered.

0:19:280:19:30

By the end of the '40s and early '50s,

0:19:300:19:34

the biggest problem was actually finding crew.

0:19:340:19:36

So unfortunately, it all fizzled out, as it were.

0:19:360:19:41

The Thames barges had fallen out of fashion, but luckily,

0:19:420:19:45

there were still some seafarers who weren't prepared

0:19:450:19:49

to let these beautiful old boats sink without trace.

0:19:490:19:52

These vessels are all part of the heritage of the country.

0:19:530:19:58

They are unique.

0:19:580:19:59

No other country has anything like these. I think it's absolutely

0:19:590:20:03

vital that we still keep them for the generations to come.

0:20:030:20:07

It's a continuity with our past

0:20:080:20:10

which would be awful sad to see it go.

0:20:100:20:13

If there ever was to come a day when you couldn't look out

0:20:130:20:17

and see a barge, I wouldn't want to be around for it, I know that.

0:20:170:20:20

These barges are truly part of the landscape here in Essex,

0:20:240:20:28

perfectly adapted for use in their environment. And in every corner

0:20:280:20:32

of the county, you can see

0:20:320:20:34

how people have learned to work in harmony

0:20:340:20:37

with the climate and the natural world around them.

0:20:370:20:39

If you drive 50 miles south of here, towards London,

0:20:420:20:45

you'll find another magnificent Essex garden - Hyde Hall.

0:20:450:20:50

Sitting on top of a hill,

0:20:500:20:52

amongst undulating countryside, this is a garden that shows

0:20:520:20:56

exactly what can be done in one of the driest areas of the country.

0:20:560:21:00

This was once a busy, working farm

0:21:030:21:06

exposed to the elements on all sides.

0:21:060:21:08

But it's now been transformed into one of the finest gardens

0:21:100:21:13

in the east of England.

0:21:130:21:15

Hyde Hall is a mix of historic and contemporary horticulture.

0:21:210:21:25

They planted traditional woodland, meadows and hedgerows

0:21:270:21:30

that will eventually blend into the landscape,

0:21:300:21:34

as well as creating the Dry and New World Garden.

0:21:340:21:37

In 1955, when Dick and Helen Robinson bought this farm,

0:21:400:21:45

they inherited a few trees, an overgrown field of rye grass

0:21:450:21:49

and a derelict orchard as a starting point for their garden.

0:21:490:21:52

But they cleared the land and started again.

0:21:520:21:55

The gardening curator, Ian Le Gros, and I go back a long way.

0:21:570:22:02

He was once a student of mine.

0:22:020:22:04

Now that's nice that you're doing a bit of work.

0:22:050:22:07

-Oh, nice for a change.

-How are you?

-Good to see you. I'm doing very well.

0:22:070:22:10

-How you doing?

-Yes, I'm fine, yeah.

-Good.

0:22:100:22:12

So, what are you up to here?

0:22:120:22:13

We've just decided this stops a bit abruptly,

0:22:130:22:16

so we're getting another piece of stone in,

0:22:160:22:18

just to finish the seam off and tuck it into the hill a bit tighter.

0:22:180:22:20

Are you going to bung some plants in?

0:22:200:22:22

We've got a few little things and we'll filter those in around later.

0:22:220:22:25

OK, can I give you a hand?

0:22:250:22:26

It'd be great to have that hand, certainly, absolutely.

0:22:260:22:29

So I think, yeah, we've got to just measure, dig and then maybe put

0:22:290:22:33

some hardcore in the bottom cos we don't want the rock to sink.

0:22:330:22:37

Now, Ian, the last time I had any dealings with you,

0:22:380:22:42

you were as one of my students.

0:22:420:22:44

Yeah, I've got sort of fond memories of it.

0:22:440:22:46

Yeah, I remember as we were sort of dozing off, drifting

0:22:460:22:49

off slightly, you used to sort of shout and get us all awake again.

0:22:490:22:52

So those memories still haunt me.

0:22:520:22:54

THEY LAUGH

0:22:540:22:55

-Pleasantly?

-Pleasantly, absolutely, yeah.

0:22:550:22:57

He must have been paying attention in some of my lectures,

0:22:580:23:01

because just look at the glorious gardens

0:23:010:23:04

Ian and his team has created.

0:23:040:23:06

So what's your actual role here?

0:23:070:23:09

My role here is the head of site and curator,

0:23:090:23:12

so I'm in charge of the whole site, all the activities that go on it.

0:23:120:23:15

It's not bad for an old student, is it?

0:23:150:23:16

No, not bad at all, actually, it's not bad.

0:23:160:23:18

I mean, it's a great place to work, great, great team here,

0:23:180:23:21

great atmosphere to the place.

0:23:210:23:23

'If I do say so myself, he's done a grand job.'

0:23:230:23:26

What I like is seeing your name in the press.

0:23:260:23:29

Every now and then.

0:23:290:23:30

In the magazines, I think, "One of my old students."

0:23:300:23:33

-Yes.

-Great sense of pride.

0:23:330:23:34

Oh, that's good to hear.

0:23:340:23:36

Ian and the team have seen lots of changes in the 22 years he's

0:23:400:23:43

been at Hyde Hall, because this site was almost as

0:23:430:23:46

hostile as the one Beth Chatto faced when she started planting.

0:23:460:23:50

But unlike Beth's garden, the soil here was a solid, heavy clay,

0:23:510:23:56

giving them all sorts of different challenges.

0:23:560:23:59

And we always say that we put more under the ground

0:23:590:24:02

here at Hyde Hall than we do on the top.

0:24:020:24:04

Of course you do. That's what every gardener does.

0:24:040:24:06

You know, if you're going to do it properly.

0:24:060:24:08

It's a big piece of rock, Ian.

0:24:130:24:15

It is, it is a sizeable piece.

0:24:150:24:16

I managed to move it a little bit myself,

0:24:160:24:18

so I think between two of us, and with a bit of luck on our side...

0:24:180:24:21

Yeah.

0:24:210:24:22

I'll get out your way.

0:24:250:24:26

They've managed to create this dry garden by mixing in sharp sand

0:24:280:24:32

and grit to the clay soil to take the water away.

0:24:320:24:35

Perfect for drought-resistant plants of all kinds.

0:24:350:24:40

And one firm favourite since it came here from the

0:24:400:24:42

Mediterranean is lavender.

0:24:420:24:44

There are more than 30 species of this lovely plant,

0:24:460:24:50

which thrives in full sun and is happiest in well-drained soil.

0:24:500:24:54

Colours range from blue to lilac and violet and its

0:24:540:24:58

heady scent is unmistakable.

0:24:580:25:01

Lavender is good for encouraging sleep and relaxation.

0:25:010:25:05

Not much chance of relaxation here.

0:25:090:25:12

We've got this rock to get in!

0:25:120:25:14

Well, let's have a look at our handiwork.

0:25:180:25:21

Almost looks like we've done it, that there's a new rock in place.

0:25:210:25:25

Really tucks into the ground like we wanted it to at the start.

0:25:250:25:27

Is this your favourite bit of the garden?

0:25:270:25:29

It's a very nice bit, but no,

0:25:290:25:31

I actually prefer some of the Hilltop Garden.

0:25:310:25:33

OK, do you want to show me?

0:25:330:25:35

Why not, why not. Totally different theme, but beautiful nonetheless.

0:25:350:25:38

-Yes, come on, let's go and have a shufti.

-OK.

0:25:380:25:40

Hyde Hall is now owned by the Royal Horticultural Society and

0:25:450:25:49

attracts thousands of visitors a year, who come to enjoy the

0:25:490:25:53

variety of gardening styles on show.

0:25:530:25:56

From the contemporary look of the Dry Garden to Ian's favourite,

0:25:560:26:00

the six formal beds filled with masses of gloriously scented blooms

0:26:000:26:04

in the rose garden.

0:26:040:26:05

So, Ian, this is your favourite bit of the garden, but why?

0:26:070:26:10

I think it's my favourite bit

0:26:100:26:12

because the rest of the plantings at Hyde Hall all sort of meander

0:26:120:26:15

and sort of roll together and they look more organic.

0:26:150:26:18

This is a lot more formal, therefore it's different.

0:26:180:26:21

And it sort of rekindles people's love of roses, hopefully.

0:26:210:26:24

Lovely old English flower, shape, scent, very important for roses,

0:26:240:26:28

I think, but with disease and pest resistance in the modern breeding.

0:26:280:26:32

No longer do we have to don suits quite so often

0:26:320:26:34

and come up and spray them.

0:26:340:26:35

And what about the future? How are you taking it forward?

0:26:350:26:37

What are your plans?

0:26:370:26:39

Well the plans are to do up the perennial meadows

0:26:390:26:41

and the hay meadows that we're working on.

0:26:410:26:43

Huge drifts of bulbs naturalised in turf

0:26:430:26:45

and the landscape pockmarked with trees.

0:26:450:26:47

And then outside of that you've got the true East Anglian countryside,

0:26:470:26:50

the wild wood that we've been planting for 15 years.

0:26:500:26:52

You see, for me, that's what's typical of Hyde Hall.

0:26:520:26:55

You're constantly moving it on, but you're always showing

0:26:550:26:59

what you can do on a really windy, dry site.

0:26:590:27:02

And I think that's fantastic.

0:27:020:27:04

Time never stands still in a garden.

0:27:060:27:08

They've worked so hard to create something beautiful here,

0:27:080:27:11

that's so in tune with its surroundings.

0:27:110:27:14

But just a few miles away is a natural spectacle

0:27:170:27:21

that's largely untouched by time.

0:27:210:27:23

This must be one of the most stunning prehistoric sights

0:27:250:27:28

I've seen in the British countryside.

0:27:280:27:31

These salt-marshes have looked like this for thousands of years.

0:27:310:27:35

You wouldn't think anything could grow down there,

0:27:350:27:39

but believe it or not,

0:27:390:27:41

they support a fascinating and unique habitat for plant life.

0:27:410:27:44

Neil Harvey works for the Essex Wildlife Trust.

0:27:460:27:50

The salt-marshes have been here since after the last Ice Age.

0:27:500:27:53

And they're created when rivers that are bringing

0:27:530:27:55

the silt down to the coast, widen out and they lose their energy

0:27:550:27:59

and they can't carry that material any more, so they drop the silts.

0:27:590:28:02

What's left behind is very high in nutrients,

0:28:020:28:05

and this builds up to a height where the plants can start to grow.

0:28:050:28:09

The vegetation on salt-marshes is quite specialised.

0:28:110:28:14

There aren't a huge number of species of plants here,

0:28:140:28:17

it's quite a simple community, but all of the plants

0:28:170:28:19

are particularly adapted to growing in these conditions,

0:28:190:28:22

so they have to cope with various kind of stresses.

0:28:220:28:26

The salt-marshes are covered by the tide twice a day.

0:28:260:28:29

But the plants have to be salt-tolerant to

0:28:300:28:33

survive in this habitat.

0:28:330:28:35

Plants like samphire, which are succulent, a bit like cacti,

0:28:370:28:41

so they're holding onto water in that way.

0:28:410:28:43

Other plants, like the sea lavender, will have a really thick cuticle,

0:28:430:28:46

which means that they can hold onto the water.

0:28:460:28:49

So there are lots of different adaptations that they show

0:28:490:28:51

that allow them to live here where most plants

0:28:510:28:54

wouldn't be able to survive.

0:28:540:28:55

As well as plants, the salt marshes are a rich food source.

0:28:570:29:00

The Blackwater Estuary has been fished for oysters for 1,000 years,

0:29:010:29:06

and oysters are still harvested by hand here today.

0:29:060:29:10

And lamb grazed on salt marshes is deliciously juicy and tender,

0:29:100:29:16

with a fantastic flavour.

0:29:160:29:18

Perhaps it was this that led ancient settlers to find a way to harvest

0:29:180:29:22

the most precious treasure of all,

0:29:220:29:24

from this apparently empty landscape - salt.

0:29:240:29:28

The ancient town of Maldon, which sits at the head of the

0:29:350:29:38

Blackwater Estuary, has been at the centre of the salt-making industry

0:29:380:29:42

for 2,000 years.

0:29:420:29:44

Clive Osborne's family has been involved for four generations.

0:29:450:29:49

-Everything all right this morning?

-Yes, everything's fine.

0:29:490:29:51

Sea salt has been produced in this area going back to the Roman times,

0:29:510:29:56

and then through the Saxon and Norman times.

0:29:560:29:58

Going back to the great Domesday Book,

0:29:580:30:01

there were no fewer than 45 salt pans listed on this

0:30:010:30:05

particular part of the river.

0:30:050:30:06

This area has always been perfect for producing salt -

0:30:080:30:11

not only because it's the driest part of the country, but

0:30:110:30:14

because of the way the salt marshes help concentrate

0:30:140:30:17

and filter the sea water.

0:30:170:30:19

Salt produced in this area has been known as Maldon salt for a long time.

0:30:200:30:25

But in 1882, a company was formed,

0:30:250:30:29

called the Maldon Crystal Salt Company.

0:30:290:30:32

And the process hasn't changed much over the centuries.

0:30:340:30:37

Sea water is brought in from the estuary

0:30:370:30:40

and filtered into massive pans.

0:30:400:30:43

It's boiled to remove impurities,

0:30:430:30:45

and then heated until the salt crystallizes.

0:30:450:30:48

Workers use a traditional method of drawing the crystals by hand

0:30:500:30:53

from the pans.

0:30:530:30:55

Sometimes the older, simpler ways

0:30:560:30:59

of doing things really can't be improved upon.

0:30:590:31:03

And it's not only on the coast

0:31:030:31:05

that you can find rich pickings from the environment.

0:31:050:31:08

Head inland from Maldon and you can reach a community that's

0:31:080:31:12

determined to make the most of whatever it can produce itself.

0:31:120:31:16

Wivenhoe is one of more than a thousand so-called

0:31:160:31:19

Transition Towns across the world.

0:31:190:31:21

They want to practise sustainability

0:31:210:31:24

and save our dwindling oil supplies, by encouraging us all to go local.

0:31:240:31:29

Ruth Melville explains.

0:31:290:31:32

We've been going since maybe 2008, 2009.

0:31:320:31:36

As part of the project, we've started doing quite a few food-related things

0:31:360:31:40

because I suppose one of the core things about transition

0:31:400:31:43

is moving from sort of not thinking about where it comes from,

0:31:430:31:46

to realising that you can get a lot of things locally

0:31:460:31:48

and, obviously, it's fresher and it's easier to get hold of.

0:31:480:31:52

The group has converted bits of unused land in the town to

0:31:520:31:56

produce food, including the disused Station Master's garden

0:31:560:32:00

next to the local railway line,

0:32:000:32:02

which has become a herb and vegetable plot.

0:32:020:32:05

And they love nothing better than to share their bounty.

0:32:050:32:09

One year we had far too many courgettes which grew into marrows,

0:32:100:32:13

so we made marrow curry and gave it out to the commuters as they

0:32:130:32:16

were coming off the train.

0:32:160:32:18

Lucky commuters!

0:32:180:32:19

Businesses have also joined the transition campaign.

0:32:210:32:25

One pub landlord offered his back yard,

0:32:250:32:27

so that neighbours could set up a community chicken coop.

0:32:270:32:31

Carole Rennie and her son, Joshua, love getting involved.

0:32:310:32:35

I'm one of about eight of us, and we take shifts.

0:32:350:32:38

So every other Friday, it's mine and Josh's turn to do the chickens.

0:32:380:32:41

We come in, in the morning, let the chickens out of their coop

0:32:410:32:44

and then we come and collect the eggs, clean out the bottom

0:32:440:32:48

and give them any scraps that we've got.

0:32:480:32:50

We're not allowed to feed them onions, I think, but, like,

0:32:520:32:57

other things we usually do.

0:32:570:32:59

The kids are having fun,

0:33:020:33:04

getting their hands dirty at the same time as learning

0:33:040:33:07

where their food comes from.

0:33:070:33:09

And what have you learned, Joshua?

0:33:090:33:11

Not much, actually.

0:33:110:33:13

LAUGHTER

0:33:130:33:15

Well, you can't win 'em all!

0:33:150:33:17

The volunteers are so dedicated and productive that the local

0:33:190:33:22

council even asked them to take over a vacant plot of land

0:33:220:33:25

and do something with it.

0:33:250:33:27

The result is this fabulous wildlife garden,

0:33:290:33:32

which is John Rowland's domain.

0:33:320:33:35

Before we started creating this garden,

0:33:350:33:38

it was pretty much just scrubland. And then once we'd cleared all that,

0:33:380:33:41

we could start putting in plants that are good for

0:33:410:33:43

the bees and the butterflies.

0:33:430:33:45

The big thing was making sure that we had a pond, so we've got some water.

0:33:450:33:49

We've done lots of activities with pond dipping,

0:33:490:33:52

just getting people out here.

0:33:520:33:55

All sorts of events that we've done over the year to

0:33:550:33:57

sort of get the most out of what is quite a nice little wildlife garden.

0:33:570:34:01

Today, the neighbours are all getting together for a

0:34:030:34:06

meal in the open air.

0:34:060:34:07

Using ingredients from the garden,

0:34:070:34:10

including the eggs that the children collected earlier,

0:34:100:34:13

as well as herbs from the Station Master's garden. Scrumptious.

0:34:130:34:17

Quite a lot of butter in that.

0:34:190:34:21

Try a bit.

0:34:210:34:23

The idea of moving to a more sustainable society is one that

0:34:230:34:26

I agree with and I've met lots of nice like-minded people doing it.

0:34:260:34:30

These neighbours may be amateur gardeners,

0:34:320:34:35

but they've used their environment to produce a wonderful harvest.

0:34:350:34:39

What an achievement.

0:34:390:34:41

-How is it?

-Lovely.

-Do you like it?

0:34:410:34:43

-Oh, it's really coming out.

-So salty.

0:34:430:34:47

I need a pumpkin!

0:34:470:34:48

In Essex, it's fantastic to see the ingenious ways in which people

0:34:550:34:59

and plants have adapted to this dry, windy, low-lying landscape

0:34:590:35:04

and created something that not only produces food and sustains life,

0:35:040:35:09

but is also beautiful.

0:35:090:35:10

And the one place that sums it all up for me is Beth Chatto's garden.

0:35:130:35:19

She and Andrew did so much to show gardeners

0:35:190:35:22

how to work with their surroundings.

0:35:220:35:24

I love it here, and I want to give my own offering to this

0:35:240:35:28

beautiful place.

0:35:280:35:30

After garden director David and I had a close encounter

0:35:330:35:37

with all those lovely bugs earlier,

0:35:370:35:39

it occurred to me there's one thing that would

0:35:390:35:41

benefit Beth's garden and the local environment

0:35:410:35:44

for years into the future.

0:35:440:35:46

And it involves a practice that stretches back 4,000 years.

0:35:460:35:51

Perfect for traditional Essex - beekeeping.

0:35:510:35:55

As pretty much any schoolchild knows, plants need to be pollinated

0:35:560:36:00

to reproduce and spread.

0:36:000:36:02

Bats, birds and insects all do this job,

0:36:030:36:06

but by far the most important of the pollinators are bees.

0:36:060:36:10

For Essex beekeeper Lee Bartrip,

0:36:110:36:14

it was an accident of nature that led to a new passion.

0:36:140:36:17

Initially, a swarm came into the garden

0:36:180:36:20

and I didn't know what to do with them.

0:36:200:36:22

So I went online to check what you do with a

0:36:220:36:25

swarm in your garden, joined the local Bee Association and

0:36:250:36:29

really just found them so fascinating, I thought,

0:36:290:36:33

"Yeah, I'm going to become a beekeeper."

0:36:330:36:35

Lee installed a beehive in his garden

0:36:360:36:39

and has a colony of 15,000 bees.

0:36:390:36:42

He inspects the hive regularly to check on the health of the bees,

0:36:420:36:46

and to see how they're getting on with honey production.

0:36:460:36:49

If it's been a good year, you get honey, you get wax

0:36:510:36:53

for candle-making. It's just really good fun looking after bees.

0:36:530:36:57

No wonder bees got the reputation for being busy.

0:37:000:37:03

A worker bee visits about 100 flowers collecting

0:37:030:37:06

nectar on every foraging trip.

0:37:060:37:09

They store the nectar in their honey stomachs,

0:37:100:37:13

where it mixes with enzymes.

0:37:130:37:15

When they're full, they head back to their hive.

0:37:150:37:18

We have sealed honey here. The bees are still bringing in nectar,

0:37:190:37:24

which comes straight from the plant, has been passed

0:37:240:37:28

from the foraging bee to the house-working bees.

0:37:280:37:31

And these are all house-working bees,

0:37:310:37:33

so they're not old enough to go out to collect nectar yet themselves.

0:37:330:37:38

It's the job of these young bees to process

0:37:380:37:41

and store this sugary substance in the comb cells within the hive.

0:37:410:37:46

Bees top up the cells until they're full,

0:37:480:37:51

then allow water to evaporate off until the substance has thickened.

0:37:510:37:56

And that's a complete frame of honey.

0:37:580:38:01

It's been capped, so that is actually ready to harvest.

0:38:010:38:06

It's incredible to think that to produce one pound of honey,

0:38:090:38:13

around 500 bees will have visited about two million flowers,

0:38:130:38:17

and that one bee will only produce

0:38:170:38:20

a fraction of a teaspoonful in its lifetime.

0:38:200:38:23

But what a treat for us.

0:38:230:38:26

Gardens provide the habitat bees need to thrive,

0:38:310:38:35

and all the gardens I've visited today are a natural bee paradise.

0:38:350:38:39

Particularly this one, where Beth Chatto and her husband, Andrew,

0:38:400:38:45

have been so determined to work in harmony

0:38:450:38:48

with the natural world around them.

0:38:480:38:51

Beth doesn't make TV appearances these days,

0:38:510:38:54

so I'm thrilled that this towering figure in the world of horticulture

0:38:540:38:58

has kindly agreed to have a chat with me today.

0:38:580:39:01

Beth, how lovely to see you.

0:39:070:39:09

Oh, I'm so pleased to see you.

0:39:090:39:12

This is a real, real privilege.

0:39:140:39:16

Oh, not at all. For me, too.

0:39:160:39:18

For me, this garden has always exuded two people -

0:39:180:39:26

Andrew and you.

0:39:260:39:29

Indeed, Andrew, of course.

0:39:290:39:31

Without him, it wouldn't be like this.

0:39:310:39:33

And it was that ability of Andrew to really see plants in nature,

0:39:330:39:39

bring them back and then pass that knowledge to you, the plantsman,

0:39:390:39:45

the artist, the person with soul.

0:39:450:39:49

Well, we were...I think we were a good partnership.

0:39:490:39:52

We were so different, for one thing.

0:39:520:39:54

I mean, Andrew was not a practical gardener

0:39:540:39:57

in the sense that we perhaps understand it,

0:39:570:40:00

-he was an intellectual.

-Right.

0:40:000:40:02

I was a teenager when I first met him and I was

0:40:020:40:06

interested in gardening because my parents were both keen gardeners.

0:40:060:40:11

But here was Andrew bringing in to me

0:40:110:40:14

a totally new conception of gardening.

0:40:140:40:17

Not to be using hybrid plants,

0:40:170:40:21

which lost all their character.

0:40:210:40:24

He taught me, he taught me to look carefully

0:40:240:40:28

and see the beauty in plants as they are growing in the wild now.

0:40:280:40:32

The majority of people would think they're just fiddly,

0:40:320:40:35

you know, but think of many of the plants that are

0:40:350:40:38

growing here that are as they grow in the wild.

0:40:380:40:41

Although it is a very complicated garden now, I know, in many ways,

0:40:410:40:46

I've aimed for simplicity through the principle of

0:40:460:40:51

putting plants where they're comfortable and happy.

0:40:510:40:53

Because plants are like people,

0:40:530:40:55

they don't want to be pushed into the nearest available hole

0:40:550:40:58

and this, the Japanese golden rule - the Earth, Heaven, Man line.

0:40:580:41:03

-Triangles.

-Triangles, yes.

0:41:030:41:06

Yeah, well you pull it off with so much panache, it's untrue.

0:41:060:41:11

And what you're leaving us, Beth, is something very, very special.

0:41:110:41:15

So thank you so much.

0:41:150:41:17

I'm overwhelmed.

0:41:170:41:19

SHE LAUGHS HAPPILY

0:41:190:41:21

Thank you, Beth, thank you so much.

0:41:210:41:23

What a remarkable woman.

0:41:260:41:28

Beth's inspired so many people, including me.

0:41:280:41:32

There's nothing I can give her that could possibly reflect her

0:41:320:41:36

lifetime of achievements,

0:41:360:41:37

but there's one thing that would benefit the garden

0:41:370:41:41

that I'm sure she'll approve of.

0:41:410:41:43

Today, I've seen how, through the centuries, people in Essex

0:41:440:41:48

have learned to work with their environment, without changing it.

0:41:480:41:52

And how they continue to use traditional, simple ways

0:41:520:41:56

to harvest what they need from nature.

0:41:560:41:58

And to round off this very special day, I've gathered everyone together

0:42:000:42:04

for a little celebration.

0:42:040:42:07

Now this is a happy sight. Look at all this.

0:42:070:42:10

Honey cake, that's beautiful, isn't it?

0:42:100:42:13

-Very nice. Do you want some, Christine?

-Wow, I'd love. some.

0:42:130:42:16

Yeah, terrific. Look at the beautiful flower.

0:42:160:42:18

-And there we go.

-Oh, I'm going to have a chomp.

0:42:180:42:21

Mm.

0:42:210:42:22

I've had a really beautiful day today.

0:42:230:42:27

An iconic garden, a very iconic lady,

0:42:290:42:34

sharing a passion,

0:42:340:42:36

sharing a love.

0:42:360:42:38

We need to ensure that that love, that knowledge, that enthusiasm

0:42:380:42:43

for nature and gardens continues.

0:42:430:42:46

And we've got little seedlings from the same family,

0:42:460:42:50

a bigger seedling, the matriarch

0:42:500:42:53

and we just thought it would be really nice to actually ensure that

0:42:530:42:59

bees continue to come into this garden, so the future is secure.

0:42:590:43:04

And we thought it would be quite nice to

0:43:040:43:06

leave you with your very own beehive.

0:43:060:43:10

Well, that's wonderful.

0:43:120:43:14

Isn't that great? That's an old-fashioned beehive.

0:43:140:43:17

Absolutely. We couldn't give you a modern one.

0:43:170:43:19

I think that's lovely, isn't it?

0:43:190:43:21

-It's very attractive, yes.

-It's a des-res, that is, for bees.

0:43:210:43:24

So, I can come back and always have honey cake.

0:43:240:43:28

THEY LAUGH

0:43:280:43:29

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