Oxfordshire Glorious Gardens from Above


Oxfordshire

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Britain has some of the finest gardens anywhere in the world.

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For me, it's about getting in amongst the wonderful plants

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that flourish in this country

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and sharing the passion of the people who tend them.

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However, there's another way to enjoy a garden...

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..and that's to get up above it.

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I love ballooning

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because you get to see the world below in a whole new light.

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From up here, you get a real sense

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of how the garden sits in the landscape,

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how the terrain and the climate has shaped it.

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And I want you to share that experience with me.

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This is a day that promises wonderful flying weather

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and a chance to see one of Britain's most wonderful counties.

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We're exploring Oxfordshire today

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and, despite being one of the most-densely populated counties

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in the country,

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it still remains mainly rural.

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Oxfordshire lies in the South,

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bordered by Gloucestershire to the West

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and Buckinghamshire to the East.

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Being landlocked,

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Oxfordshire is furthest from the paths of most Atlantic depressions,

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with their cloud, wind and rain, so the climate is relatively calm.

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Perfect, in fact, for ballooning and gardening.

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The geography of Oxfordshire is very varied.

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In the North, we have the rich Redlands

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and, in the West, the beautiful Cotswolds.

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And slap-bang in the middle of the county

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is that ancient seat of learning, Oxford University.

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But I'm here to see the gardens.

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Today, I'm dropping in on two Oxfordshire gardens

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begun by formidable women,

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whose legacy is now under the guardianship of the next generation.

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Now, you worked with Miss Havergal.

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What was it like during that period?

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She could be very, very strict.

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The farmers would be quite frightened of her.

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CHRISTINE CHUCKLES

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We'll be messing about on the river at Henley-on-Thames,

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where your knees might come under some scrutiny!

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Women at the regatta are always expected to wear a dress

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and the dress has to be below the knee,

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otherwise they will be told to leave.

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And I do a bit of inspection myself.

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Go on, how many manky ones have you got?

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Have you got a manky one?

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-Oh, look.

-Oh, look, you've got one! Yeah!

-Yeah.

-One each.

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-You caught me.

-One each.

-HE LAUGHS

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From my bird's-eye view in the sky,

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I'm looking out for a very special eight acres.

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And there they are, Waterperry House and Gardens,

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one of Britain's first ever horticultural schools for women.

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Waterperry Gardens lie close to the eastern border of the county.

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This grand house in the grounds was not only a school,

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it was home to the Waterperry girls,

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the first generation of women horticulturists who studied here.

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Most of the garden I'll be visiting today lies south of the house.

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Here, the relaxed landscaping becomes more formal and structured.

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Vistas lead you through to intimate and peaceful spaces

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like this one, the Tudor-inspired Formal Garden.

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Or, if you follow your nose,

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you'll find yourself tipsy with the scent in the Mary Rose Garden.

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But, high as I am,

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one feature of this garden stands out above all others.

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One of the most exciting things about viewing Waterperry from above

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is that you can see the vast amount of colour that's down there.

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The borders just rippling along the walls,

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the intensity of the colour from the trials beds.

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All brought together with passion, and I can't wait to get down there.

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I enjoy coming to Waterperry

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because of the connection of women and gardening.

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It was a school and, for me, having been in education myself,

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that's very important.

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It's the standard, it's the love.

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Every time you come, you feel an intimacy,

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a special atmosphere within this garden.

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Plants, people and education coming together

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to create a very beautiful garden.

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The Waterperry Gardening School was started by this towering lady,

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Beatrix Havergal.

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Beatrix was a passionate gardener

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and a woman of formidable determination.

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Her dream of establishing a horticultural school for girls

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came to fruition here in 1932.

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Students would undergo two years of rigorous training

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and leave with the cherished Waterperry Diploma.

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During the Second World War, Waterperry became a market garden

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for much-needed food production

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and accommodating members of the Women's Land Army.

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They were soon put to work ploughing and Digging For Victory.

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Miss Havergal, dressed as always with a smartly knotted tie,

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cut a singular figure and she had two very distinct ambitions.

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One was her principle of achieving horticultural excellence -

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lines had to be straight, plants correctly planted.

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Secondly, she believed in sharing and passing on the knowledge

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and the opening up of opportunities for women.

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When one student told her that she would be leaving to get married,

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Miss Havergal cried, "But what about the garden?!"

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Miss Havergal retired

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and sold Waterperry in 1971 to the School of Economic Science,

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and she died nine years later, aged 79.

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Her legacy not only lives on through this beautiful garden

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but through the thousands of girls who studied under her.

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One such girl is Mary Spiller,

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who continued Miss Havergal's work at Waterperry after she died.

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I'll be meeting her later.

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She in turn trained and continues to influence

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the latest custodian of the garden, horticultural manager Rob Jacobs,

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who's working in Waterperry's orchards.

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Hi, Rob. I thought it was you down here. How are you?

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Hello, I'm all right.

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I can see you're picking. Do you want a hand?

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Yes. Well, we've got you a bag.

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Oh, ey, great! Let's cross it over do this...

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-Yeah, arms through there.

-Head through.

-The bottom one.

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-That's it.

-That's it.

-I remember these, from t'old days. Aye.

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Right, where are we going to start?

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There we are.

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Gentle, tender, loving care.

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No fingers.

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You cup the apple and you rotate it up.

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So there's no damage and everything's hunky-dory.

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-What you don't want is to use your fingertips.

-Right.

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And if you ever bite into an apple and there's a little bruise,

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you can put your fingers to it and you can see

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and, you know, when we're picking, it happens

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and Chris, our fruit manager, he has to come out

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and he has a little rant at everybody -

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they're not using their hands, not rolling it up.

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So if you can feel pressure on your fingertips,

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-you're picking the apple wrong.

-Mm.

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'Waterperry is pretty famous for its apples.

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'They have over five acres of orchards

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'and grow around 60 varieties for eating, pressing and cider making.

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'It's no wonder Rob takes so much care with the fruit.

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'As a custodian, he has a very strong tradition to uphold.'

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In a magazine called The Fruit Grower, in the '70s,

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they said the five most influential people for growing fruit

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in the last 100 years, four men

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and one woman - Beatrix Havergal.

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There you go, you see.

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For many years Miss Havergal won gold medals

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at the Chelsea Flower Show for her exhibit of one particular fruit,

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the strawberry.

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Is there a fruit more evocative of a British summer than a strawberry?

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I don't think so.

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It's actually a member of the rose family,

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and its wild cousins were found all over the temperate world.

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It was the crossbreeding of these wild strawberries

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that give us the succulent, sweet fruits we eat today.

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Summer-fruiting varieties are the largest and most popular.

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They have a short but heavy cropping period over two to three weeks,

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but planting different varieties

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can provide you with a crop from early to late summer.

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Pick them when they're bright red all over,

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and eat them at room temperature,

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because this is when they're at their most tasty.

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What was it like working here as a youngster?

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-Oh, as a young man?

-Yeah.

-Um, it was slightly scary.

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-At the time, the two ladies who did my job were Mary Spiller...

-Yeah.

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..and a lovely lady called Jean Manger.

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But you had to do things THEIR way.

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Well, what's it like, being bossed by women?

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Do you know, I've never seen it like that and it's only cos...

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(they're right.)

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CHRISTINE LAUGHS (Ssh!)

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Now you did say, "It's only because they're right."

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I've got two daughters and a wife at home,

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so it's good for me to say that.

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SHE LAUGHS

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Get these in there, then.

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Right. Careful and steady. If you release the side there.

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I've done this before, you know.

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You can come here again, you know, Christine.

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-Can I have a job?

-Yeah.

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As she goes because you don't want to bruise them.

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There you are, you just withdraw it gently and there you are, you see.

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Oh, was there an offending soul in there?

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Well, you're never going to get it absolutely right, I mean.

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Go on, how many manky ones have you got?

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-Have you got a manky one?

-Oh, look at that one.

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Oh, look, you have got one. Yeah, one each.

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-You caught me.

-One each.

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So how many apple varieties have you got here?

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Well, on-site we've got about 63

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but we've actually got a tree that we call our little family tree.

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It's a bit more than a family tree. Nearly all the varieties of apples.

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-On one tree?

-Yeah. Do you want to see it?

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Cor, yeah, come on, let's go and have a shufty.

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Blimey, there's a lot of different varieties on this.

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Do you like it? It's just to show how clever we are.

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It's our family tree.

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Great, so a lot of different grafting been going on here.

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Yeah.

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Grafting, where a section of a stem with leaf buds from one

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variety is inserted into part of a tree, is a horticultural technique.

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You combine one tree's best qualities with

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the roots of another tree that offers vigour and resilience.

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Apple is malus domesticus.

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It has the most forgiving, stretchy, cambium layer of any tree.

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So the bark...

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So if you want to do something clever.

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Yeah, the bark, the green bit underneath.

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You want to do anything clever, do it with malus domesticus. It's wonderful.

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Grafting is an ancient skill.

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The Chinese were performing grafts over 4,000 years ago,

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before the knowledge travelled across the continents to Europe.

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This 25-year-old mother tree is a variety called Spartan

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but has approximately 50 other varieties growing from it.

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If you look in here.

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We'll pull that out the way, can you see the fuse in the bark?

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-That's been where...

-That's the old bark...

-And that's the new.

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-..and this is all the fuse.

-..and that's the new branch.

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And how old would that be, then?

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Well, this is quite vigorous.

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I think they're now grafts on to grafts.

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So this would be about three to four years

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because we've been doing it about seven years now.

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One of our local varieties is Oxford Beauty, here.

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-Oh, right.

-It's doing all right.

-It's all right that.

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It's not too bad. We also have Eynsham Dumpling down there.

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I can see that, yeah.

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Right at the back, you can see that's the weak one.

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On the other side there's Old Fred. That's Old Fred Wastie.

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Oh, I can see that. Yeah, I can see that, yeah.

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Old Fred Wastie, he was the man that actually bred all these

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Oxford varieties, or most of these Oxford varieties.

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We've even got a little orchard of them.

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-Just a few trees standing.

-Lovely.

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-It's keeping that genetic material in the county.

-Absolutely.

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Before buying Waterperry,

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Miss Havergal ran another small garden

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and, to make ends meet, she'd sell the produce at a local market.

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Times may have changed

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but the ambition of bringing affordable local food to the people

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of Oxford has been grasped by a new breed of producers in a unique way.

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This is Cultivate.

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Cultivate is a co-operative, which sells fruit

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and vegetables from its farm directly to the public.

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This is one of several vans that they have operating in the city.

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-Thank you.

-Bye, see you soon.

-Bye.

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But what they sell comes from here, a ten acre community farm.

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Over £80,000 was raised three years ago to rent the land

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and fund the start-up costs.

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Now, nearly 400 members

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and volunteers support the co-op with their time and hard work.

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Tracey Jones is one of them.

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Community farms are absolutely brilliant in that they bring

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people on to the land that haven't got their own land

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but can just have the opportunity to come out on odd days

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and experience what it's like to grow food and harvest food.

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So it's really, really important to bring people into farming

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that wouldn't necessarily get a chance to do it.

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It's an Oxford-based farm

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and a number of the members are very well-educated.

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One of the founders, Joe Hassel,

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is a former philosophy, politics and economics student.

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I came to Oxford to study and in my undergraduate days,

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I did nothing to do with horticulture or food production.

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I just really got into gardening.

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Then I carried on to do a horticultural apprenticeship.

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The benefits of this type of food production are abundant.

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One great thing about local food economies is the variety you get

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in every aspect.

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I mean we're growing five or six different

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varieties of tomato in this little polytunnel, so you get your

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punnet of tomatoes and it's not one cherry, you've got five different

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cherry tomato varieties and I think people really appreciate that.

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It makes you engage with your food, it makes you think about it,

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it makes you cook it differently, it makes you taste it differently.

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Today, volunteer Niko O'Brien is harvesting veg for sale

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later in the vans

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I'm picking peppers and I'm aiming for the bigger ones

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rather than the smaller ones because some of them can still grow.

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So, right now, they are going in this little box

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and then taken on to the veg van

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where they will be sold in various stops around Oxford.

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-There we are.

-Well done.

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But the farm is also educational and it's a great way of teaching kids

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about the food they eat and where it comes from.

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And then this one. Do you want to grab this one?

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And so you're trying to do it without pulling out the other ones.

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So if you hold it by the root, that's it, it's a bit easier,

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I find.

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-Yeah!

-Hooray!

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Champion beetroot, look at that. That's very good.

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Once picked, the produce is then distributed to the veg vans,

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where an appreciative and hungry clientele awaits.

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Star of the show is these, which Mia calls sweetie tomatoes

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and some really nice blueberries. We've got some beetroot,

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so I'm just going to experiment with some beetroots and halloumi

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and from Cultivate's own farm, some really nice peppers.

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At the moment, the tomatoes are flying off the shelves.

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Those really juicy little yellow tomatoes,

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which are really sweet, so they're great.

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Beans, chard, spinach, everything just looks

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so delicious as well, all spread out on the van.

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Everyone's like, "Yeah, I'll have a bit of that, a bit of that."

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It's been a real journey for me, in terms of discovering what is

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actually available in the local area and it means that

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I can also take the next generation along, my daughter,

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to see how stuff is grown and that's also really great for her.

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Cos that was a bit of a mystery for me as a kid, I think.

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I think it's really nice that you can get to know your local

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veg van driver and they're like your link to the farm

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and you can find out what they've been growing,

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what they're planning to put in the ground for next week.

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It's great. You can see where your food's come from.

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I couldn't agree more.

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Delicious, locally grown fruit and veg is what we're all looking for

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and here it is, right on the doorstep.

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Miss Havergal would certainly have approved.

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Becoming a custodian to someone else's life's work

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could become a great burden

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but, in former Waterperry student Mary Spiller's safe hands,

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the gardens continued to flourish.

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Now a sprightly 90-year-old,

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to this day, Mary still tends her own garden.

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But as a young woman,

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opportunities to garden were a little more limited.

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I had to decide what I was going to do when I left school

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and of course, all I knew I wanted was an outdoor life.

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But this was wartime, so I said,

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"Well, a Land Army's much more of an outdoor life, I'm going to do that,"

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and so that's how I got into it.

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It was quite a hard life and you were working all day.

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Each student would have a strip of land to hand dig

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and it had to be perfectly level.

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Miss Havergal was a perfectionist and because she was so enthusiastic,

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you believed that perfection could be achieved.

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You just worked for it and you didn't mind

0:18:380:18:40

because it gave you a great sense of fulfilment.

0:18:400:18:43

After graduating, Mary returned to Waterperry to lecture

0:18:430:18:47

and develop more of the gardens.

0:18:470:18:49

And, like Miss Havergal, she broke new boundaries too

0:18:490:18:52

when she became the first female presenter of Gardeners' World.

0:18:520:18:58

Well, we've had a really terrible winter

0:18:580:19:00

but not everything has suffered.

0:19:000:19:02

We've got some really gorgeous pussy willows here,

0:19:020:19:06

making us think that spring is coming at last.

0:19:060:19:09

Mary and the rest of the staff at Waterperry feel very much

0:19:090:19:12

the custodians of Miss Havergal's vision for the garden and her

0:19:120:19:16

prized herbaceous border has been lovingly tended for over 50 years.

0:19:160:19:20

Mary, you've been associated with Waterperry for a very long time

0:19:220:19:26

but what were the principles you used to create these beautiful borders?

0:19:260:19:30

Well, it was really the idea that was current in the 20th century,

0:19:300:19:36

in that this was just purely herbaceous.

0:19:360:19:40

No bulbs, no shrubs, no bedding,

0:19:400:19:45

and so you had to get your display by how you arranged your plants

0:19:450:19:50

and chose them and it was basically three seasons.

0:19:500:19:53

The first was May/June.

0:19:530:19:55

But if they were going to be planted in the front,

0:19:550:19:59

they'd got to look good after flowering

0:19:590:20:02

because you then had your next season,

0:20:020:20:05

which was the June/July, delphiniums,

0:20:050:20:09

the tall verbascums, phloxes. Lovely time, wonderful time.

0:20:090:20:13

Yeah, all that colour and fireworks.

0:20:130:20:14

Oh, yes, that's right.

0:20:140:20:16

And so you put those

0:20:160:20:18

so that, as they grew up,

0:20:180:20:21

they hid the early flowering,

0:20:210:20:23

and then you had the late season,

0:20:230:20:25

which was the September/October.

0:20:250:20:27

So it was quite a tricky planning device.

0:20:270:20:30

The idea behind it was

0:20:300:20:32

-that you did the work at certain times of the year...

-Quite.

0:20:320:20:35

..and if you've got bulbs there,

0:20:350:20:37

-they get in the way when you're digging in the autumn.

-Quite.

0:20:370:20:40

-You bring up a handful of bulbs.

-That's right.

0:20:400:20:43

But it was great fun, yes,

0:20:430:20:44

and Miss Havergal, this was her pride and joy,

0:20:440:20:48

and she arranged it and she taught me how to do it,

0:20:480:20:51

and then I looked after it for about 30 years too.

0:20:510:20:54

Well, it still looks good today, as I'm sure it did in those days.

0:20:540:20:57

Yes, well, they've carried on very, very well,

0:20:570:20:59

they're using the same principles.

0:20:590:21:02

Now, you worked with Miss Havergal.

0:21:020:21:03

What was it like during that period?

0:21:030:21:06

Well, it was hard work, of course,

0:21:060:21:08

because she expected perfection.

0:21:080:21:12

She could be very, very strict. Very strict.

0:21:120:21:14

I mean, big farmers would be quite frightened of her.

0:21:140:21:18

-CHRISTINE LAUGHS

-But on the other hand,

0:21:180:21:20

she was very sweet to everyone,

0:21:200:21:22

she was very caring for people.

0:21:220:21:25

We all ate together in a dining room,

0:21:250:21:27

we played together in the evenings,

0:21:270:21:29

went on the river together.

0:21:290:21:31

So you enjoyed it, you worked hard,

0:21:310:21:34

because she'd got such a lot of enthusiasm.

0:21:340:21:37

She wanted it to succeed,

0:21:370:21:40

and so you wanted it to succeed.

0:21:400:21:42

And then you had a great sense of achievement when things did -

0:21:420:21:45

when you grew a crop well or didn't.

0:21:450:21:47

Yeah, occasionally!

0:21:470:21:49

Not so good.

0:21:490:21:51

I remember once forgetting to move a line,

0:21:510:21:53

so when the seedlings came up

0:21:530:21:55

they were V-shaped instead of parallel,

0:21:550:21:58

but luckily we'd remembered just in time and sowed the extra line.

0:21:580:22:02

Excellent!

0:22:020:22:04

So before she could get out there, we were hoeing it off quickly.

0:22:040:22:08

While the cat's away, the mice'll play!

0:22:080:22:10

That's right, yes, absolutely.

0:22:100:22:12

One newer feature, developed by Mary,

0:22:180:22:20

is the water-lily canal

0:22:200:22:21

on the eastern border of the garden.

0:22:210:22:24

It looks fantastic now, but it's given Rob a few headaches.

0:22:240:22:28

So, Mary, what made you create this canal?

0:22:300:22:34

Well, we were finding that visitors were tending to stay

0:22:340:22:37

in the bottom part of the garden,

0:22:370:22:38

and so we put in that semi-circular bed

0:22:380:22:42

with brilliant colours in it.

0:22:420:22:44

But then that left us a rather empty space between the two,

0:22:440:22:48

so I thought the canal would just join the two.

0:22:480:22:50

But I didn't want anything too elaborate,

0:22:500:22:53

because you're looking out to the countryside.

0:22:530:22:56

-To a lovely landscape.

-Yes, that's right.

0:22:560:22:59

And so I didn't want lots of fountains and statues and things,

0:22:590:23:02

so we kept it very low-key.

0:23:020:23:05

But then it means you come across it almost unexpectedly.

0:23:050:23:08

And then it's quite exciting,

0:23:080:23:09

cos you've got all these different water lilies.

0:23:090:23:11

That's right, it's rather nice.

0:23:110:23:13

And what about maintaining it and looking after it?

0:23:130:23:16

Maintaining it. Well, first problem we had

0:23:160:23:18

-is our tap water is quite limey.

-Right.

0:23:180:23:20

We had huge lime-level issues,

0:23:200:23:23

and as soon as we sorted that problem out, duckweed came in.

0:23:230:23:27

So I didn't realise Mary was setting me one challenge after another

0:23:270:23:30

when she came up with the concept.

0:23:300:23:32

It's the principles.

0:23:320:23:33

You've got to keep going back to those strong principles.

0:23:330:23:36

One of the principles we were given is that the water should re-balance,

0:23:360:23:39

and so I took a dangerous thing last year,

0:23:390:23:43

where I said, "I'm not doing anything for 12 months",

0:23:430:23:46

and it's actually worked.

0:23:460:23:47

And we've got there.

0:23:470:23:49

You see, ponds, naturally,

0:23:490:23:51

given the right circumstances,

0:23:510:23:52

will actually re-balance.

0:23:520:23:54

I don't put any tap water in any more.

0:23:540:23:55

-No.

-I leave it to the rain.

-That's the trouble.

0:23:550:23:57

Tap water, you've got ammonia, you've got fluorine,

0:23:570:24:00

you've got chlorine, you've got all sorts of things.

0:24:000:24:02

And they need to evaporate off

0:24:020:24:04

and, though you've got the large surface area,

0:24:040:24:06

you've still got to get it to evaporate off.

0:24:060:24:08

You know, whereas Mother Nature... Nice acid water. Yeah.

0:24:080:24:12

So, I think, you know,

0:24:120:24:13

sometimes doing nothing is the answer.

0:24:130:24:16

In this occasion it absolutely was.

0:24:160:24:19

Yeah, yeah.

0:24:190:24:20

You need to train someone,

0:24:200:24:22

because then they get the ideas behind the work.

0:24:220:24:25

-Absolutely.

-They know what you're aiming at,

0:24:250:24:27

-and that's the main thing, isn't it?

-It absolutely is.

0:24:270:24:31

I have to stop myself

0:24:310:24:33

and listen to what Mary has said,

0:24:330:24:35

to make sure I keep repeating that,

0:24:350:24:37

and keep that ethos going on all the time.

0:24:370:24:40

And, you see, you will pass that on to the next person,

0:24:400:24:44

and they will have it ringing in their ears.

0:24:440:24:46

-Yes.

-Yes, of course.

0:24:460:24:48

Come on, let's have a look.

0:24:480:24:49

Waterperry is such a special place to me, and countless others,

0:24:530:24:57

that I want to give a tribute

0:24:570:24:58

to honour Mary's lifelong custodianship

0:24:580:25:01

of Miss Havergal's legacy.

0:25:010:25:03

So I've asked local artist Rachel Ducker, who sculpts with wire,

0:25:030:25:07

to make a piece of artwork for the garden.

0:25:070:25:10

Waterperry has featured heavily in her life too.

0:25:100:25:12

I used to take my son to Waterperry

0:25:140:25:17

when he was very young.

0:25:170:25:18

Really gorgeous to sit out there

0:25:180:25:21

and have a cup of tea and walk around,

0:25:210:25:23

and I like the ethos of the whole place,

0:25:230:25:27

being very spiritual

0:25:270:25:29

and to do with kindness and giving...

0:25:290:25:32

..and you can feel that when you're there.

0:25:340:25:36

Rachel initially started as a jeweller,

0:25:380:25:40

before she moved on to wire sculptures.

0:25:400:25:43

I love trying to catch a moment.

0:25:430:25:45

I sort of see my work as a bit of 3-D photography in a way,

0:25:450:25:48

because it's a snapshot of a moment,

0:25:480:25:50

is what I'm trying to catch,

0:25:500:25:51

and that's why I try and get the energy of the movement

0:25:510:25:55

with the hands, the hair.

0:25:550:25:57

Everything, just creating a scene, really.

0:25:570:26:00

Rachel's sculptures have featured at the Chelsea Flower Show,

0:26:000:26:03

and in gardens that have won a coveted gold medal,

0:26:030:26:06

but creating one for Waterperry is very special.

0:26:060:26:10

I'm really thrilled that I'm going to have a piece of my work in the garden there, actually.

0:26:100:26:14

Because I've been there for so many years

0:26:140:26:16

and I've had my work in the gallery there,

0:26:160:26:18

it's just lovely that I'll have a piece that will stay there...

0:26:180:26:21

for however long...it will.

0:26:210:26:24

I'm really happy about that.

0:26:240:26:26

Protecting and caring for someone's legacy in one lifetime

0:26:300:26:33

is no mean feat,

0:26:330:26:35

but 25 miles west of Waterperry,

0:26:350:26:38

an Oxfordshire landmark has been cared for by local people

0:26:380:26:41

for the last three millennia.

0:26:410:26:43

And the best view of what they care for is up in the sky.

0:26:430:26:47

This beautiful creature is the world-famous Uffington White Horse.

0:26:510:26:55

Leaping across a hill over 800 feet high,

0:26:570:27:00

it can be seen for miles around.

0:27:000:27:02

It's not the only chalk figure carved into the British countryside

0:27:030:27:06

but, at almost 400 feet long and 110 feet high,

0:27:060:27:11

it's certainly the biggest.

0:27:110:27:14

And, dating back to the Bronze Age,

0:27:140:27:16

it's the oldest too.

0:27:160:27:18

Below the horse is a dramatic dry valley known as The Manger,

0:27:200:27:24

with its sides rippled by the retreating permafrost

0:27:240:27:27

during the last Ice Age.

0:27:270:27:29

Legend has it that it's where the white horse descends

0:27:290:27:32

to feed at night.

0:27:320:27:33

Imagine arriving in this vale 3,000 years ago

0:27:380:27:41

and seeing this majestic beast for the first time -

0:27:410:27:45

the awe and the reverence it must have inspired.

0:27:450:27:48

Before the gods that made the gods

0:27:490:27:51

Had seen their sunrise pass

0:27:510:27:53

The White Horse of the White Horse Vale

0:27:530:27:56

Was cut out of the grass.

0:27:560:27:58

But why the horse was carved into the hill

0:28:010:28:03

still remains a bit of a mystery.

0:28:030:28:04

There are burial mounds nearby,

0:28:040:28:06

so a link to death and the spirits is possible.

0:28:060:28:10

In fact, people still bring ashes of the deceased

0:28:100:28:12

to scatter over the hill.

0:28:120:28:14

National Trust Ranger Andrew Foley

0:28:150:28:17

is entrusted with the upkeep of the White Horse,

0:28:170:28:20

but he has own theory about its origins.

0:28:200:28:23

It's not meant for human eyes, in my opinion.

0:28:240:28:27

It's set on the side of this hill in Oxfordshire,

0:28:270:28:29

one of the highest points, it faces the setting sun,

0:28:290:28:32

it's positioned above a landscape that cannot be explained

0:28:320:28:36

by ancient man,

0:28:360:28:37

so everything points to - it's an offering towards the gods.

0:28:370:28:40

One of those gods being Epona, which was a horse goddess,

0:28:400:28:43

so my theory is that this is an offering to that god.

0:28:430:28:47

Bring us good harvests,

0:28:470:28:48

bring us fortune, bring us long life.

0:28:480:28:51

That's what I think it is.

0:28:510:28:52

But why would the image of a horse

0:28:520:28:55

be so meaningful to Bronze Age inhabitants of the vale?

0:28:550:28:59

Horses were symbols of power and status.

0:28:590:29:02

Most people were born, lived and died in the same village

0:29:020:29:05

and hardly ever travelled at all.

0:29:050:29:07

So if you've got a horse, you have to be somebody important,

0:29:070:29:09

you have to be probably a chieftain or a high-class warrior.

0:29:090:29:13

A white horse would also symbolise your power and status,

0:29:130:29:17

because most native horses in the country

0:29:170:29:20

were brown, dull nags or cobs.

0:29:200:29:23

White horses would have been arriving in the country

0:29:230:29:25

through trade with Europe or beyond.

0:29:250:29:28

So, again, if you're that high-status

0:29:280:29:30

and you've got a white horse,

0:29:300:29:32

it's pretty much like driving down the high street in a Ferrari

0:29:320:29:35

instead of a Ford Fiesta.

0:29:350:29:37

Over the millennia, the White Horse has attracted some unique folklore.

0:29:390:29:44

Well, here we're working on the eye of the horse.

0:29:450:29:48

It's probably the most visited part of the horse

0:29:480:29:50

that people come to look at.

0:29:500:29:53

There was a couple of legends associated with it.

0:29:530:29:55

Firstly, it is said that,

0:29:550:29:57

should a maiden stand in the eye of the horse,

0:29:570:30:00

within one full year she will be with child -

0:30:000:30:03

take that as you will.

0:30:030:30:05

The second legend is that,

0:30:050:30:07

should you stand in here and spin round three times,

0:30:070:30:09

it will bring you good luck.

0:30:090:30:11

But that really doesn't help us with the National Trust management,

0:30:110:30:15

obviously we're trying to fight erosion everywhere across the horse

0:30:150:30:18

and that's why we have signs saying, "Please keep off."

0:30:180:30:21

We want you to enjoy,

0:30:210:30:22

but we'd like you to help us preserve it as well.

0:30:220:30:25

The horse is formed of deep trenches filled with crushed chalk.

0:30:260:30:29

Countless visitors, and rain washing the chalk down the steep hill,

0:30:290:30:33

means it has to have constant care

0:30:330:30:35

or the lines of the figure would quickly become obscured.

0:30:350:30:37

OK, so what I'm doing here is

0:30:400:30:42

I'm pounding chalk back into the eye of the figure of the horse.

0:30:420:30:46

It's a very labour-intensive job,

0:30:460:30:48

there's no great technology to it, as you can see.

0:30:480:30:50

Things probably haven't changed over the years.

0:30:500:30:52

It's just extremely... We call it like painting the Forth Bridge.

0:30:520:30:56

As soon as you've finished, you think you've finished,

0:30:560:30:59

then it's time to start all over again.

0:30:590:31:01

But perhaps the greatest enigma

0:31:010:31:03

surrounding this ancient white horse,

0:31:030:31:05

is that local people must have looked after it

0:31:050:31:07

for it to have survived for 3,000 years.

0:31:070:31:10

Whatever their reason for doing so, I'm so glad they did.

0:31:100:31:14

As you fly over the county,

0:31:220:31:23

you realise how quintessentially English and restrained

0:31:230:31:26

the landscape is.

0:31:260:31:28

And the next Oxfordshire garden I'm visiting

0:31:280:31:30

wonderfully reflects that setting - Kingston Bagpuize.

0:31:300:31:33

Like Waterperry, it's a 20th-century garden

0:31:380:31:41

created by a formidable woman,

0:31:410:31:43

and her legacy, too, is being guarded by the next generation.

0:31:430:31:47

It's a young garden but, viewed from above,

0:31:480:31:52

you can just see how wide that herbaceous border is.

0:31:520:31:55

Fantastic trees, marvellous planting

0:31:550:31:58

and some great landscapes.

0:31:580:32:00

Flying from the east, a stately sentinel of mature trees

0:32:070:32:11

creates a natural avenue that leads to the house itself.

0:32:110:32:14

On the north side lies a formal lawn

0:32:150:32:17

trimmed by straight-edged paths,

0:32:170:32:19

encompassing newly planted Portuguese laurel trees

0:32:190:32:22

and an elegant fountain.

0:32:220:32:24

Further north, informal paths lead you through the trees and shrubs

0:32:260:32:30

into the parkland.

0:32:300:32:32

This isn't a garden that screams in your face.

0:32:330:32:36

It has a softer voice which gently encourages you to stroll within it.

0:32:360:32:40

It was started by well-to-do spinster Marlie Raphael,

0:32:450:32:48

who bought Kingston Bagpuize in 1939

0:32:480:32:51

and spent the rest of her life developing her beloved garden.

0:32:510:32:54

Plans were laid out, plants were bought,

0:32:560:32:59

and a lifetime's work of creating a garden begun.

0:32:590:33:02

She travelled extensively, visiting gardens around the world,

0:33:050:33:07

and bringing back plants to see if they could work at home.

0:33:070:33:12

She was determined to create a garden of her own.

0:33:120:33:15

After her death in 1976,

0:33:170:33:19

the gardens became a little less loved.

0:33:190:33:21

Thankfully, Virginia Grant and her late husband inherited,

0:33:230:33:26

and began to restore the garden to its former glory.

0:33:260:33:29

-Hi, Virginia.

-Hi, Christine, lovely to see you.

0:33:310:33:33

-Yeah, how are you?

-I'm fine, thanks.

0:33:330:33:35

What are you up to?

0:33:350:33:36

Well, I'm just sort of slightly doing a gentle trim,

0:33:360:33:40

more than a sort of hard prune, on these Portuguese laurel.

0:33:400:33:42

-Is that just to balance them up a bit?

-It's just to balance them up.

0:33:420:33:45

If you look at them all, they've not all grown evenly.

0:33:450:33:47

But, also, I want it to be

0:33:470:33:49

so that next year's flowering wood isn't all cut off,

0:33:490:33:52

which is what I think is going to be done

0:33:520:33:54

if you cut them into a lollipop.

0:33:540:33:56

So it's just short back and sides.

0:33:560:33:57

It's... Yeah, pretty much so, pretty much so.

0:33:570:34:00

Can I give you a hand?

0:34:000:34:01

Yeah, I'd be delighted, absolutely delighted.

0:34:010:34:03

So where do you get your inspiration from?

0:34:030:34:05

Well, I'm very influenced by Marlie Raphael,

0:34:050:34:08

because I feel this is her garden, I'm custodian,

0:34:080:34:10

not just of the house but the garden as well.

0:34:100:34:12

I've got all her invoices,

0:34:120:34:15

when she did her major planting right into the '60s and early '70s.

0:34:150:34:18

They actually did plans for the planting.

0:34:180:34:20

I've only got one of them, sadly -

0:34:200:34:22

I don't know what happened to the other.

0:34:220:34:24

-But talking about Marlie, wasn't she inspirational for the herbaceous border?

-Absolutely.

0:34:240:34:28

Yes, I think this was in...

0:34:280:34:29

It was in full bloom and it was tended throughout the war years.

0:34:290:34:32

I think it was the only bit of the garden which was as a garden,

0:34:320:34:35

rather than producing fruit or vegetables.

0:34:350:34:37

Well, there's bits to do, isn't there?

0:34:370:34:39

-Yeah, there's a lot to do.

-Come on, let's have a look.

0:34:390:34:41

We haven't had the kindest summer, unfortunately.

0:34:410:34:44

Well, there's quite a lot of dead-heading to be done here,

0:34:440:34:46

-isn't there?

-Yeah, sadly.

0:34:460:34:48

It's just not as good as it should be,

0:34:490:34:52

simply because it's been so dry these last few weeks.

0:34:520:34:55

Well, you know, some years you get a long display, don't you,

0:34:550:34:58

-and other years it's much shorter.

-Yeah, absolutely.

0:34:580:35:00

So what state was the garden in when you actually arrived here?

0:35:000:35:03

The herbaceous border here essentially had four plants in it.

0:35:030:35:07

So, a limited palette?

0:35:070:35:09

A limited palette, absolutely.

0:35:090:35:10

There were great losses here

0:35:100:35:12

in the hard winter of, you know, '81, '82,

0:35:120:35:15

and we sort of set about the restoration of the gardens

0:35:150:35:18

to realising a little bit what Marlie Raphael had done

0:35:180:35:22

and what we would like to go on doing.

0:35:220:35:25

So we've taken quite a lot back into the garden and I'm still doing it.

0:35:250:35:30

But what was Marlie like as a person?

0:35:300:35:32

Well, I don't have any first-hand knowledge,

0:35:320:35:35

because sadly I never knew her, although I grew up very close.

0:35:350:35:38

My mother met her on a few occasions

0:35:380:35:39

and said she was delightful and passionate about her garden.

0:35:390:35:42

And she travelled a lot before the war, between the wars,

0:35:420:35:45

but she didn't really travel nearly as much afterwards.

0:35:450:35:48

I think it was, you know...

0:35:480:35:49

She wanted to see what was happening here

0:35:490:35:51

and have her finger on the pulse and she was....

0:35:510:35:53

What's the overall plan for the garden?

0:35:530:35:55

I think she had one

0:35:550:35:57

where she wanted to plant the plants that she'd seen on her travels,

0:35:570:36:02

and to have them.

0:36:020:36:03

And have them she did.

0:36:040:36:06

Further down, at the end of the border,

0:36:060:36:09

an exotic Persian silk tree has just come into bloom.

0:36:090:36:12

Marlie may have seen this tree on her travels around Asia,

0:36:160:36:20

but it was first introduced into Europe in the mid-18th century

0:36:200:36:23

by an Italian nobleman.

0:36:230:36:25

In the wild, the tree tends to grow

0:36:250:36:28

in dry plains, sandy valleys, and uplands.

0:36:280:36:30

But it's planted as an ornamental feature in parks and gardens

0:36:300:36:35

for its stunning foliage and silky pom-pom flowers.

0:36:350:36:38

Its Persian name means "night sleeper",

0:36:400:36:42

because the leaves slowly close during the night.

0:36:420:36:45

To look this good, maybe you need a little beauty sleep.

0:36:450:36:49

They say, the more you travel,

0:36:510:36:52

the more you go and look at plants in the wild,

0:36:520:36:55

the better informed and the more aware you are

0:36:550:36:57

of the peculiarities that Mother Nature can throw up.

0:36:570:37:00

And I think those early days of travel

0:37:000:37:03

really set the palette and the tone

0:37:030:37:05

for British horticulture.

0:37:050:37:06

Because we had no reference point before then.

0:37:060:37:09

I'm sure. She wanted a garden where you could walk at any time of year

0:37:090:37:12

and you could find something of interest,

0:37:120:37:14

and I think that's really important.

0:37:140:37:16

But it's so easy to do, and people say,

0:37:160:37:17

"How do you get 12 months' worth of colour?"

0:37:170:37:20

You visit a garden centre one day every month

0:37:200:37:23

and buy something in flower

0:37:230:37:25

and you do it every month the same, for the year.

0:37:250:37:27

And at the end of the year, you've got 12 months' worth of colour.

0:37:270:37:30

I've never thought of that, but that's a really, really good idea.

0:37:300:37:33

So what's going to happen to the garden in the long term?

0:37:330:37:36

You know, do you have kids that are interested?

0:37:360:37:38

I've got two, Elizabeth and Alexander.

0:37:380:37:40

I have to say, they're teenagers and they're not really keen!

0:37:400:37:43

They're not interested in the niceties of gardening,

0:37:430:37:47

but they're very interested

0:37:470:37:48

in the whole...vista.

0:37:480:37:51

-OK.

-So, bearing in mind what I was like at their age,

0:37:510:37:54

you know, I think you've got to have that sort of opportunity

0:37:540:37:58

and chance to grow into it.

0:37:580:38:00

Yeah, and you see, what's interesting about youngsters,

0:38:000:38:02

is that often they don't actually say what's in there.

0:38:020:38:06

And, you know, you hope that, as a gardener,

0:38:060:38:09

you've sown a seed. And you probably have sown the seed,

0:38:090:38:11

but it may lay dormant for a hell of a long time,

0:38:110:38:14

and then one day it might bloom.

0:38:140:38:15

Like gardening, the seeds of a good idea can grow anywhere,

0:38:180:38:21

and 24 miles south-east of Kingston Bagpuize,

0:38:210:38:25

on the calm waters at Henley-on-Thames,

0:38:250:38:27

the idea of a boat race

0:38:270:38:29

between the great universities of Oxford and Cambridge

0:38:290:38:32

came to fruition in 1829.

0:38:320:38:34

It eventually became the world's most famous regatta, Henley.

0:38:340:38:38

Eloise Chapman is curator

0:38:410:38:43

at the River and Rowing Museum on the riverbank.

0:38:430:38:46

Henley's always benefited from the fact that

0:38:470:38:50

it sits on a stretch of the river that's very navigable up to London,

0:38:500:38:53

and with the introduction of locks during the 17th and 18th century,

0:38:530:38:57

the amount of trade really increased

0:38:570:38:59

and the size of vessels on the river really increased as well.

0:38:590:39:03

During this time, there was an increasing interest

0:39:030:39:05

in everything maritime,

0:39:050:39:07

and this was due in no small part

0:39:070:39:09

to Jerome K Jerome's book, Three Men In A Boat.

0:39:090:39:11

And around this time,

0:39:110:39:12

there was another travel book which came out, by John MacGregor,

0:39:120:39:15

called A Thousand Miles In The Rob Roy Canoe,

0:39:150:39:17

where he wrote about his adventures in his purpose-built canoe,

0:39:170:39:21

and we have one of these first canoes, called a Rob Roy,

0:39:210:39:24

that was built for him, in the museum.

0:39:240:39:26

The first Oxford-Cambridge boat race took place here

0:39:280:39:31

after two old school friends, who went on to opposing universities,

0:39:310:39:35

were rowing together when they came up with a plan

0:39:350:39:37

for an eight-oar race.

0:39:370:39:39

They chose Henley-on-Thames

0:39:410:39:43

because this stretch of the river was nice and straight.

0:39:430:39:47

In the inaugural race, it was Oxford who won the day,

0:39:480:39:51

and they have the winning boat in the museum.

0:39:510:39:53

The boat is very different to the boats you have today.

0:39:530:39:56

It's completely made of wood,

0:39:560:39:57

it's incredibly large, incredibly heavy.

0:39:570:40:00

It doesn't have outriggers for the oars

0:40:000:40:02

and it also has static seats.

0:40:020:40:04

So today you have a sliding seat, which makes rowing a lot easier,

0:40:040:40:07

whereas these are completely static.

0:40:070:40:09

The good people of Henley quickly realised

0:40:110:40:14

that messing about on the river could be very lucrative,

0:40:140:40:17

and the first regatta was established in 1839,

0:40:170:40:22

eventually increasing from a one-day event

0:40:220:40:25

to the five-day event it is now.

0:40:250:40:27

But despite advancements in its duration,

0:40:270:40:30

some rules weren't so progressive.

0:40:300:40:33

Perhaps the most shocking rule

0:40:340:40:36

was that no entrant was allowed to have undertaken

0:40:360:40:39

any task that was considered menial,

0:40:390:40:41

so nothing like a mechanic or an artisan,

0:40:410:40:44

where they'd be working for a wage.

0:40:440:40:46

The regatta was intended for amateur oarsmen

0:40:460:40:49

and it enforced strict guidelines.

0:40:490:40:51

But they didn't mention middle-class jobs

0:40:510:40:53

like doctors, lawyers and accountants,

0:40:530:40:55

So, in all but name, there was a class bar.

0:40:560:40:59

The offending rule was dropped in 1937,

0:40:590:41:02

but when it comes to sartorial tradition,

0:41:020:41:05

some rules are holding fast.

0:41:050:41:07

The regatta has quite a strict dress code,

0:41:080:41:11

and for men this includes blazers or jackets and flannels,

0:41:110:41:14

and blazers are quite a big part of rowing, and they came out of rowing.

0:41:140:41:18

They were known as blazers because they were so bright.

0:41:180:41:21

Women at the regatta are always expected to wear a dress,

0:41:210:41:23

and the dress has to be below the knee,

0:41:230:41:25

otherwise they will be told to leave.

0:41:250:41:27

No need for dress codes back at Waterperry, thank heavens,

0:41:310:41:35

although these island beds will have you wearing a smile.

0:41:350:41:38

'Much of the garden we see today

0:41:400:41:41

'was under the guardianship

0:41:410:41:43

'of Miss Havergal's former pupil, Mary Spiller.

0:41:430:41:46

'Mary was the first-ever presenter on Gardeners' World

0:41:460:41:49

'and has cared for Waterperry for over 50 years.'

0:41:490:41:53

Have a little pew.

0:41:530:41:55

Oh, well, thank you very much, that's very nice.

0:41:550:41:58

'To thank this modest woman,

0:41:580:41:59

'I've asked local artist Rachel Ducker

0:41:590:42:02

'to make one of her miniature wire sculptures.

0:42:020:42:05

'It will sit in this particular part of the garden

0:42:050:42:07

'that's filled with alpine plants Mary's particularly fond of.'

0:42:070:42:11

What we thought would be nice

0:42:130:42:14

is to leave something here

0:42:140:42:16

to recognise the woman that really started it off,

0:42:160:42:20

and what we did was asked a local artist,

0:42:200:42:22

that equally loves Waterperry,

0:42:220:42:24

to create a modern piece of art

0:42:240:42:27

that would reflect Miss Havergal and the principles.

0:42:270:42:30

And there we go.

0:42:300:42:32

How lovely! And she's holding a strawberry.

0:42:360:42:39

Absolutely.

0:42:390:42:40

Delightful.

0:42:400:42:42

So there we are, Miss Havergal with a strawberry.

0:42:420:42:44

The excellence of the standards -

0:42:440:42:47

you've got to have principles to produce a strawberry like that.

0:42:470:42:50

Yes, she was quite a woman,

0:42:500:42:52

quite a woman.

0:42:520:42:54

'I wholeheartedly agree, Mary. She was quite a woman!'

0:42:540:42:58

It's been so uplifting to see these Oxfordshire gardens

0:43:040:43:06

from high in the sky,

0:43:060:43:08

and to know that both the memory of the women who created them

0:43:080:43:11

and the gardens themselves

0:43:110:43:12

are safe in the hands of their new custodians.

0:43:120:43:15

With that kind of protection,

0:43:180:43:19

these young gardens might last as long as that ancient White Horse.

0:43:190:43:23

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