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This is a journey through Britain and through 1,000 years of our history, | 0:00:11 | 0:00:17 | |
to see how we've built the country we live in. | 0:00:17 | 0:00:21 | |
We are reflected in our buildings. | 0:00:31 | 0:00:35 | |
They tell us who we are. | 0:00:35 | 0:00:37 | |
Sometimes fearless and heroic, | 0:00:39 | 0:00:42 | |
sometimes exuberant, | 0:00:42 | 0:00:46 | |
often ambitious. | 0:00:46 | 0:00:49 | |
When we reach for the skies... | 0:00:49 | 0:00:52 | |
..we can be innovative and industrious. | 0:00:54 | 0:00:59 | |
But we have a cosy side... | 0:01:02 | 0:01:05 | |
..an eccentric streak | 0:01:06 | 0:01:09 | |
and a taste for fun. | 0:01:09 | 0:01:11 | |
This is the story of Britain told through its buildings | 0:01:16 | 0:01:20 | |
and the people who built them. | 0:01:20 | 0:01:22 | |
Our journey starts in the east of England. | 0:01:34 | 0:01:37 | |
In the Middle Ages this was the richest corner of the country | 0:01:43 | 0:01:47 | |
where out of conflict and conquest arose buildings the like of which we'd never seen. | 0:01:47 | 0:01:53 | |
These glorious buildings are more than just objects of great beauty, | 0:01:59 | 0:02:03 | |
they marked the beginning of a new era of progress and sophistication. | 0:02:03 | 0:02:08 | |
It was here in the medieval east that the foundations of modern Britain were laid. | 0:02:08 | 0:02:14 | |
1066, Britain is conquered by the Normans. | 0:02:59 | 0:03:04 | |
William the Conqueror is waging a ferocious campaign to subdue England. | 0:03:06 | 0:03:11 | |
The last outpost of Anglo-Saxon resistance, the Fenlands of East Anglia and the Isle of Ely. | 0:03:14 | 0:03:21 | |
Ely used to be a treacherous place, an island surrounded by these bogs and marshes. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:37 | |
It got its name from the huge number of eels that used to be caught here. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:41 | |
And the only people who were safe were the fen men, who according to legend, had webbed feet. | 0:03:41 | 0:03:48 | |
It was only when the Isle of Ely fell that the conquest was complete. | 0:03:57 | 0:04:04 | |
After the devastation of war, | 0:04:23 | 0:04:26 | |
work started on the building of a new world. | 0:04:26 | 0:04:29 | |
Towering over this flat landscape, Ely Cathedral, | 0:04:33 | 0:04:39 | |
the start of the first construction boom in our history. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:43 | |
It was the birth of modern Britain. | 0:04:43 | 0:04:46 | |
The Normans were visionary builders. | 0:04:56 | 0:04:58 | |
And they used their skills to make the conquered population cower before them. | 0:04:58 | 0:05:04 | |
Imagine what it must have been like if you lived as a villager here, | 0:05:07 | 0:05:11 | |
you know, in a low-lying house, quite modest, | 0:05:11 | 0:05:14 | |
and suddenly in your midst arose this enormous building | 0:05:14 | 0:05:19 | |
made of stone and taller than anything you'd ever seen in your life before. | 0:05:19 | 0:05:24 | |
For medieval man, to build a cathedral was to build paradise on earth. | 0:05:41 | 0:05:47 | |
Every part was beautifully crafted, | 0:05:49 | 0:05:54 | |
stonework almost out of sight but so finely made | 0:05:54 | 0:05:59 | |
for God, not man, to see. | 0:05:59 | 0:06:02 | |
What's one to say? The first feeling coming into this place | 0:06:09 | 0:06:13 | |
is just a sense of...awe, | 0:06:13 | 0:06:16 | |
of the majesty of a building so glorious, so vast. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:23 | |
This high, high, high nave with its pillars. | 0:06:23 | 0:06:27 | |
And you think, "How did a building like this get to be built | 0:06:27 | 0:06:32 | |
"so many hundreds of years ago? | 0:06:32 | 0:06:35 | |
"Who were the people that were prepared to spend the time | 0:06:35 | 0:06:39 | |
"and the energy creating this great monument, | 0:06:39 | 0:06:42 | |
"when nothing like it existed?" | 0:06:42 | 0:06:45 | |
It's just breathtaking! | 0:06:45 | 0:06:47 | |
If you were making a cathedral like this today, you'd have architectural plans, engineering drawings, | 0:07:10 | 0:07:16 | |
structural engineers poring over all the stresses and the load-bearing walls and the rest of it. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:22 | |
And after a long time they'd probably conclude it couldn't be built anyway cos it would fall down. | 0:07:22 | 0:07:27 | |
Now, this building was built entirely | 0:07:27 | 0:07:29 | |
by the knowledge, the experience of the master masons who made it. | 0:07:29 | 0:07:33 | |
The miracle is, and I think even they would have been astonished, | 0:07:33 | 0:07:37 | |
that almost 1,000 years later it's still standing. | 0:07:37 | 0:07:41 | |
You couldn't rush the building of a medieval cathedral. Ely took almost 300 years | 0:07:47 | 0:07:53 | |
Thousands of tons of stone was quarried 50 miles away | 0:07:55 | 0:07:59 | |
and brought to Ely by boat. | 0:07:59 | 0:08:02 | |
Working with little more than a set square, some compasses | 0:08:02 | 0:08:06 | |
and a knowledge of geometry, | 0:08:06 | 0:08:09 | |
medieval masons were able to raise this glorious building to the heavens. | 0:08:09 | 0:08:14 | |
And 1,000 years later stonemasons are still working - | 0:08:14 | 0:08:18 | |
repairing and restoring it. | 0:08:18 | 0:08:21 | |
You see it from a distance and you feel you've put your mark on it, | 0:08:23 | 0:08:26 | |
-you can feel proud of what you've done. -Feel part of it's yours? | 0:08:26 | 0:08:31 | |
I think every stone you put in, it's yours, you know. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:35 | |
It sounds strange, but every stone you touch and put in, on any building, you know, | 0:08:35 | 0:08:40 | |
you've done it and you'll respect that building for it. | 0:08:40 | 0:08:44 | |
'Stonemasons have a tradition. They leave tokens behind for future generations to find.' | 0:08:47 | 0:08:52 | |
Ah! It's too steep, I get vertigo looking at it. | 0:08:52 | 0:08:56 | |
'I wanted to leave a time capsule of my own, to puzzle people 1,000 years from now.' | 0:08:56 | 0:09:03 | |
So, there's a bill for a week's shopping, | 0:09:03 | 0:09:08 | |
a packet of cigarettes saying "smoking kills" - | 0:09:08 | 0:09:10 | |
because I think by the time it's opened, nobody will know what cigarettes are - | 0:09:10 | 0:09:15 | |
a week's television programmes, so they can see the kind of stuff we watched. | 0:09:15 | 0:09:19 | |
And finally a Mars bar. I don't know why it's there, | 0:09:19 | 0:09:22 | |
but I've said, "You may live there by now." | 0:09:22 | 0:09:25 | |
So I thought they'd feel at home. | 0:09:25 | 0:09:26 | |
-Can I say goodbye to the box? -Yes. -Lovely. | 0:09:29 | 0:09:32 | |
You can see that sort of fits there. | 0:09:32 | 0:09:35 | |
Great, it's not going to fall out. | 0:09:35 | 0:09:37 | |
Well, fill this, some muck in there, and then fill the back. | 0:09:37 | 0:09:40 | |
Time capsule's gone for a few hundred years | 0:09:40 | 0:09:44 | |
and we're happy, job's done, and then onto the next one. | 0:09:44 | 0:09:47 | |
It's wonderful to see a bit of work like this all hand-carved, | 0:09:47 | 0:09:52 | |
this decoration here, way out of sight of anybody on the ground. | 0:09:52 | 0:09:57 | |
You can just see it if you look up, get a slight feel of it. | 0:09:57 | 0:10:00 | |
-And yet so much love and attention has been paid to it. -Yeah. | 0:10:00 | 0:10:04 | |
It's extraordinary, beautiful. | 0:10:04 | 0:10:06 | |
What's really exciting about Ely Cathedral | 0:10:17 | 0:10:21 | |
is this feeling of the energy, the determination of the people who built it. | 0:10:21 | 0:10:26 | |
For 1,000 years, time has been spent restoring and embellishing it, | 0:10:26 | 0:10:31 | |
to make sure it stands for another 1,000 years. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:34 | |
In the years after the Conquest, the land that wasn't given to the Church | 0:10:47 | 0:10:52 | |
was shared out between a handful of William's loyal followers. | 0:10:52 | 0:10:57 | |
And to secure their hold on the country, they introduced a building | 0:10:57 | 0:11:01 | |
never before seen in England - the castle. | 0:11:01 | 0:11:06 | |
Within a generation of their arrival, | 0:11:12 | 0:11:14 | |
the Normans had built over 500 castles. | 0:11:14 | 0:11:18 | |
50 miles south of Ely, across the border into Essex, is one of the finest. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:26 | |
Hedingham Castle, built around 1140, | 0:11:32 | 0:11:36 | |
is a monument to Norman might. | 0:11:36 | 0:11:39 | |
The idea behind a Norman castle wasn't just to establish power over an area, | 0:11:47 | 0:11:52 | |
it was actually to frighten people with the authority and wealth of the family who built it. | 0:11:52 | 0:11:58 | |
And this is the keep of a castle of a very, very powerful family indeed, the De Veres. | 0:11:58 | 0:12:04 | |
They were known as "The Fighting Veres", | 0:12:09 | 0:12:12 | |
an elite warrior class of noblemen who owed their position to the king | 0:12:12 | 0:12:17 | |
and who in return fought for him. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:20 | |
Their castles were built to overpower and intimidate. | 0:12:24 | 0:12:28 | |
If attacked, they could hold their own. | 0:12:28 | 0:12:31 | |
Massive walls, 12-feet thick, protected them again battering rams. | 0:12:33 | 0:12:38 | |
Narrow windows shielded them from missiles. | 0:12:38 | 0:12:41 | |
And a raised entrance to the first floor made it harder for enemies to penetrate. | 0:12:41 | 0:12:47 | |
The staircase was built in a clockwise direction. | 0:12:54 | 0:12:57 | |
And there's a reason for that, too. It's so that it you were under attack, | 0:12:57 | 0:13:01 | |
you could fight your way back with your right arm free to attack your enemy, | 0:13:01 | 0:13:06 | |
whereas he, had this in the way | 0:13:06 | 0:13:09 | |
and couldn't ever get his arm free. | 0:13:09 | 0:13:12 | |
'But this wasn't just a fortress, it was a place of ritual and ceremony. | 0:13:16 | 0:13:22 | |
'You came here to pay homage to your lord.' | 0:13:22 | 0:13:26 | |
This is the grandest room in the castle, the banqueting hall, | 0:13:40 | 0:13:44 | |
where the mighty De Veres held court. | 0:13:44 | 0:13:48 | |
This was the centre of their empire. | 0:13:48 | 0:13:50 | |
It's where knights would come and swear loyalty to them and obedience, | 0:13:50 | 0:13:55 | |
putting their hands between the hands of the De Veres. | 0:13:55 | 0:13:59 | |
And it's decorated to show that grand style, | 0:13:59 | 0:14:04 | |
that need to impress people who came here. | 0:14:04 | 0:14:08 | |
Beautiful decorations, zigzag decorations round the curved arches and the fireplace. | 0:14:08 | 0:14:14 | |
Hangings on the wall would all have been tapestries. | 0:14:14 | 0:14:18 | |
And then this magnificent archway, | 0:14:18 | 0:14:22 | |
huge Norman arch, | 0:14:22 | 0:14:24 | |
it's the widest arch built by the Normans left standing. | 0:14:24 | 0:14:30 | |
In the Middle Ages almost everyone lived off the land. | 0:14:45 | 0:14:50 | |
Landlords grew rich by forcing their tenants to work for them. | 0:14:51 | 0:14:56 | |
We were a nation of peasants shackled to the lord of the manor. | 0:15:05 | 0:15:09 | |
Cressing Temple, in Essex, the heart of a medieval estate | 0:15:27 | 0:15:33 | |
and, if you worked here, a medieval production line. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:37 | |
This was once a hugely profitable farm complex | 0:15:44 | 0:15:48 | |
with a brew house, a granary, a dairy and a water mill. | 0:15:48 | 0:15:52 | |
Two 13th-century barns survive, | 0:15:57 | 0:15:59 | |
so magnificent, they're known as "cathedrals of the countryside". | 0:15:59 | 0:16:05 | |
It's no coincidence that these are called cathedrals, | 0:16:26 | 0:16:30 | |
because it was designed on the same basis as a big church - | 0:16:30 | 0:16:34 | |
the nave here, and an aisle each side. | 0:16:34 | 0:16:38 | |
So it copied the way that medieval churches were built. | 0:16:39 | 0:16:43 | |
It even seems a place of quiet contemplation, as it is now. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:47 | |
But not so - this was the factory at the centre of the whole estate, | 0:16:47 | 0:16:53 | |
a place that thrummed with industry. | 0:16:53 | 0:16:56 | |
At the time of harvest the corn would be cut and brought into this barn. | 0:16:59 | 0:17:03 | |
There's always a high entrance and a low entrance. | 0:17:03 | 0:17:06 | |
The high one for the wagon piled up with corn, | 0:17:06 | 0:17:09 | |
the low one, when it's been emptied, you don't need the height. Then the corn would be stacked here. | 0:17:09 | 0:17:14 | |
And what they did was to start at the low level | 0:17:14 | 0:17:17 | |
and use a horse to trample it down, | 0:17:17 | 0:17:20 | |
so it really used as little space as possible. | 0:17:20 | 0:17:23 | |
Then you started the threshing process, using this flail. | 0:17:23 | 0:17:27 | |
You spread the corn on the floor | 0:17:27 | 0:17:29 | |
and for hour after hour you stood and simply beat it | 0:17:29 | 0:17:32 | |
until the grain was beaten... | 0:17:32 | 0:17:36 | |
out of the top of the sheaves of corn. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:40 | |
Oh! Until your flail broke! | 0:17:42 | 0:17:45 | |
And at that point you had to go hungry. | 0:17:47 | 0:17:50 | |
It took nearly 500 trees to create one barn at Cressing. | 0:17:54 | 0:17:59 | |
Oak was the most popular building material in the Middle Ages, | 0:18:00 | 0:18:04 | |
and woodland was carefully managed to produce just the right size of timber. | 0:18:04 | 0:18:09 | |
Tightly packed trees grow tall and straight | 0:18:11 | 0:18:15 | |
to reach the light - perfect for construction. | 0:18:15 | 0:18:18 | |
The tools that we used then were very efficient for their time. | 0:18:23 | 0:18:27 | |
And they did evolve over a period of time to become even more efficient. | 0:18:27 | 0:18:32 | |
This is very handsome. | 0:18:32 | 0:18:33 | |
This is a copy of an 11th-century axe, | 0:18:33 | 0:18:36 | |
and you can see an axe identical in the margins of the Bayeux Tapestry | 0:18:36 | 0:18:41 | |
from the second half of the 11th century. | 0:18:41 | 0:18:44 | |
'To make a beam, the bark is first removed | 0:18:51 | 0:18:54 | |
'and then the log is hewn square.' | 0:18:54 | 0:18:57 | |
I wonder what you thought about all day while you were doing this! Mm? | 0:18:57 | 0:19:03 | |
-Evil thoughts! -Who knows? | 0:19:03 | 0:19:06 | |
I think revolutionary thoughts would come to MY mind | 0:19:06 | 0:19:09 | |
if I was doing this for three pence a day. | 0:19:09 | 0:19:11 | |
'When that's done, the timber is sawn over great trestles.' | 0:19:13 | 0:19:18 | |
-So what am I called? -You're the underdog. | 0:19:18 | 0:19:21 | |
-I'm the top dog. -Oh, right. Did they really call them that? | 0:19:21 | 0:19:24 | |
-I get paid more than you. -Why? | 0:19:24 | 0:19:27 | |
Because I'm responsible for looking after the saw. | 0:19:27 | 0:19:29 | |
But it's much harder pulling down. I'm doing all the work. | 0:19:29 | 0:19:33 | |
You stop, you see if you can do it by yourself, I bet you can't. | 0:19:33 | 0:19:38 | |
'The next stage is to cut the joints.' | 0:19:40 | 0:19:44 | |
God, it weighs a ton! | 0:19:47 | 0:19:49 | |
Ah! It's like steel. | 0:19:49 | 0:19:51 | |
'The framework of the barn is pre-fabricated on the ground. | 0:19:53 | 0:19:57 | |
'Each piece is made to fit its neighbour, so the carpenters | 0:19:57 | 0:20:02 | |
'cut marks to allow the timbers to be reassembled in the right place. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:07 | |
'You can see the medieval carpenter's marks | 0:20:07 | 0:20:09 | |
'all through the barn.' | 0:20:09 | 0:20:12 | |
Right... | 0:20:13 | 0:20:15 | |
And there we have it - a pair of rafters and a collar for a medieval roof. | 0:20:16 | 0:20:21 | |
'This simple joint took us all morning. | 0:20:21 | 0:20:24 | |
'And there are 1,500 in the barn at Cressing.' | 0:20:24 | 0:20:28 | |
I'm going north now, to an undisturbed wilderness in the heart of East Anglia... | 0:20:43 | 0:20:50 | |
..the Brecklands. | 0:20:52 | 0:20:54 | |
In the Middle Ages much of the land that wasn't farmed | 0:20:55 | 0:20:58 | |
was reserved by the rich for sport and leisure. | 0:20:58 | 0:21:02 | |
The Brecklands were home to what might seem a rather lowly pursuit for a lord... | 0:21:06 | 0:21:12 | |
..hunting rabbits. | 0:21:13 | 0:21:16 | |
In the 13th century, the right to breed and hunt rabbits | 0:21:16 | 0:21:20 | |
was a fiercely guarded privilege. | 0:21:20 | 0:21:23 | |
Their meat was an expensive delicacy, their fur a luxury. | 0:21:23 | 0:21:29 | |
They were carefully nurtured in special enclosures | 0:21:31 | 0:21:35 | |
and guarded by a warrener. | 0:21:35 | 0:21:37 | |
This warrener's lodge near Thetford once stood in open heathland. | 0:21:41 | 0:21:46 | |
The warrener's lodge was on two floors. | 0:21:51 | 0:21:53 | |
This ground floor was a storeroom | 0:21:53 | 0:21:54 | |
with thick walls and small windows to protect it. | 0:21:54 | 0:21:58 | |
And here there'd be the nets, the lamps, the snares, | 0:21:58 | 0:22:02 | |
racks to hold the valuable rabbit skins and the rabbit flesh itself. | 0:22:02 | 0:22:07 | |
And then a staircase up here which goes up to the first floor | 0:22:07 | 0:22:11 | |
and that was where the warrener lived with his family, | 0:22:11 | 0:22:15 | |
so a huge fireplace, | 0:22:15 | 0:22:18 | |
and windows all the way around. And a final tower at the top there, | 0:22:18 | 0:22:22 | |
so that he could look out with a view, 360 degrees, of the whole warren. | 0:22:22 | 0:22:28 | |
Just as the warrener protected his rabbits, so his lodge protected him. | 0:22:31 | 0:22:36 | |
His home was built to be a fortress. | 0:22:37 | 0:22:41 | |
It's a very fine building, these lovely stones on the corner | 0:22:43 | 0:22:48 | |
and the flint work, almost too grand you might think for it's purpose, | 0:22:48 | 0:22:52 | |
but the warrener faced real enemies, gangs of marauding poachers | 0:22:52 | 0:22:57 | |
armed with bows and arrows and sticks, who'd come after him. | 0:22:57 | 0:23:01 | |
And there was another reason. This lodge could be seen for miles around, | 0:23:01 | 0:23:06 | |
and it said to everybody, "This is a private warren and the warrener is there to protect it." | 0:23:06 | 0:23:11 | |
That's an albino ferret, he's about three years old. | 0:23:15 | 0:23:19 | |
He's in his prime, ferret never get no better. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:23 | |
-You can hold him if you like. -He's a biter, that one? | 0:23:23 | 0:23:26 | |
-No. It bit me, mind you. -Did it? | 0:23:26 | 0:23:28 | |
Why won't it bite me, then? | 0:23:28 | 0:23:31 | |
Do you train them to go after rabbits or is it just natural? | 0:23:31 | 0:23:34 | |
No, it's just a natural instinct. Like me, hopefully. | 0:23:34 | 0:23:37 | |
'Warreners still use the old methods | 0:23:43 | 0:23:46 | |
'to control the rabbit population. | 0:23:46 | 0:23:49 | |
'These rabbits are being rounded up to be moved to another warren nearby.' | 0:23:57 | 0:24:02 | |
It's an old, old skill being a warrener, isn't it? | 0:24:02 | 0:24:05 | |
Well, it is. It's a family thing as well. | 0:24:05 | 0:24:09 | |
Our family, going back, to my knowledge, five, six generations | 0:24:09 | 0:24:13 | |
have been warreners and probably before that. It's a gift, if you like. | 0:24:13 | 0:24:18 | |
What's the appeal? | 0:24:21 | 0:24:24 | |
Just, you know, a lovely, natural feeling you get with the rabbits and all the wildlife. | 0:24:24 | 0:24:30 | |
And, eh...to be able to... | 0:24:30 | 0:24:34 | |
love wildlife as well as control, like, where you have to, and make the balance. | 0:24:34 | 0:24:39 | |
And that seems a good way of life to me. | 0:24:39 | 0:24:42 | |
I'm on my way to Lincolnshire, to a place which reminds me who I am. | 0:24:54 | 0:25:00 | |
My family used to come from this part of the world, | 0:25:03 | 0:25:06 | |
a tiny little hamlet called Dembleby. Haven't been... Here we are! | 0:25:06 | 0:25:11 | |
Oops. Turn left, hold on tight. Whoa! | 0:25:11 | 0:25:15 | |
Haven't been here for 40 years, over 40 years. | 0:25:15 | 0:25:18 | |
Dembleby. | 0:25:18 | 0:25:20 | |
It's a Viking name, we're Vikings. It means a little stream going through a valley, | 0:25:22 | 0:25:27 | |
which is what it is. Dembleby, "Please drive slowly | 0:25:27 | 0:25:30 | |
"through our village." Through my village! | 0:25:30 | 0:25:34 | |
Dembleby's changed very little since the Middle Ages, it's just a few houses and a parish church. | 0:25:36 | 0:25:42 | |
-Hello, how do you do? -Good to meet you. -David Dimbleby. | 0:25:55 | 0:25:58 | |
-How many people live in Dembleby now? -35. -What, 35 people in the village, is that it? | 0:25:58 | 0:26:03 | |
-That's about it yes, yeah. -I think I better come back and live here and increase the population by 10%! | 0:26:03 | 0:26:08 | |
Has it been very difficult to find any references to Dimblebys? | 0:26:11 | 0:26:14 | |
No, I mean, these are the... I've looked in two books and there they were. | 0:26:14 | 0:26:18 | |
'The local historian had done some digging to find out what my medieval ancestors were up to.' | 0:26:18 | 0:26:25 | |
This is the 1341 Royal Inquest in Lincolnshire | 0:26:25 | 0:26:28 | |
and, um, here we have... Where is he...? Can you see him on here? | 0:26:28 | 0:26:33 | |
-Thomas de Dembleby. -Yes. -Chaplain. | 0:26:33 | 0:26:36 | |
"On the 14th of June 1339 at Lincoln, | 0:26:36 | 0:26:40 | |
"feloniously killed Gilbert Sharpe..." | 0:26:40 | 0:26:44 | |
-What, the chaplain?! -"..Former servant of the parson of Leake." | 0:26:44 | 0:26:47 | |
Is "feloniously killing" the same as murder? | 0:26:47 | 0:26:50 | |
I'm trying to avoid saying it, I'm glad you're saying it. | 0:26:50 | 0:26:53 | |
-So, a Dimbleby who was a chaplain... -Yes. -..Committed murder? | 0:26:53 | 0:26:58 | |
Well, um, that's what it seems to say on the face of it. | 0:26:58 | 0:27:02 | |
-Would you cease your historical research, please? Thank you very much! -I will, indeed. -Forthwith. | 0:27:02 | 0:27:07 | |
Let's forget the murky past of the humble Dimblebys | 0:27:16 | 0:27:20 | |
and see how the grand members of medieval society lived. | 0:27:20 | 0:27:23 | |
Gainsborough Old Hall was built around 1460. | 0:27:27 | 0:27:32 | |
It was the home of a rich, powerful and flamboyant knight, Sir Thomas Burgh. | 0:27:40 | 0:27:46 | |
For much of the medieval period, everyone - the lord, his lady, | 0:27:51 | 0:27:55 | |
their retainers and servants - | 0:27:55 | 0:27:58 | |
would live in one big room like this. | 0:27:58 | 0:28:02 | |
This is one of the last great halls left standing in England | 0:28:02 | 0:28:06 | |
and what a wonderful sight it is. | 0:28:06 | 0:28:08 | |
These black and white stripes, the plaster and the beams, | 0:28:08 | 0:28:12 | |
the great beamed roof... Exactly as it would have looked | 0:28:12 | 0:28:15 | |
except for one missing element - and that's the people. | 0:28:15 | 0:28:19 | |
Because this was the centre of the household, this is where everything happened. | 0:28:19 | 0:28:23 | |
It wasn't just that people ate here. | 0:28:23 | 0:28:25 | |
They did all their business here, standing in groups in the corners, | 0:28:25 | 0:28:29 | |
arguing, talking, warming themselves by the fire. | 0:28:29 | 0:28:32 | |
And then as night fell, out came skins, rugs, whatever, | 0:28:32 | 0:28:36 | |
and they all slept in here. | 0:28:36 | 0:28:38 | |
It must have been a disgusting smell. | 0:28:38 | 0:28:42 | |
This is a really impressive part of the house, the kitchen, | 0:28:42 | 0:28:45 | |
which is one third the size of the great hall. | 0:28:45 | 0:28:48 | |
Twelve people working here all day long, feeding anything from 50 to 100 people. | 0:28:48 | 0:28:53 | |
And the whole thing tightly controlled because they had to make sure food wasn't stolen, | 0:28:53 | 0:28:58 | |
that the work was done exactly as it should be. | 0:28:58 | 0:29:00 | |
So the clerk was in charge, and he had his own office in here. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:04 | |
You couldn't get into the kitchen without passing through his office, | 0:29:04 | 0:29:09 | |
he'd check what you were up to, | 0:29:09 | 0:29:12 | |
and came into the kitchen here. | 0:29:12 | 0:29:14 | |
Now, here is a huge fireplace. | 0:29:14 | 0:29:17 | |
And this is a boiling area, | 0:29:17 | 0:29:20 | |
ladles and devices there for cooking with. | 0:29:20 | 0:29:23 | |
There's a corner here for boiling meats, and meat hanging up. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:27 | |
An extremely large wild boar waiting to be cut up. | 0:29:27 | 0:29:30 | |
And then you come to the pastry ovens, where pastry and bread were done, | 0:29:30 | 0:29:35 | |
just like a pizza oven, if I can take this one out... | 0:29:35 | 0:29:37 | |
And then going on round is the roasting fireplace with a spit, | 0:29:39 | 0:29:45 | |
and here four people sat while they roasted, turning these. | 0:29:45 | 0:29:50 | |
I can't do it right. There we are, turning... | 0:29:53 | 0:29:56 | |
I don't know how that works. | 0:29:56 | 0:29:58 | |
Four people sat turning these spits, and it was so hot | 0:29:58 | 0:30:02 | |
that the four men working here | 0:30:02 | 0:30:05 | |
did their work stark naked, because if they had clothes on, | 0:30:05 | 0:30:08 | |
it would get fat on it and would catch fire. | 0:30:08 | 0:30:11 | |
It seems to me it might have been a bit dangerous being stark naked. But, anyway, that's what they did. | 0:30:11 | 0:30:16 | |
And then you come to the delivery of the food. The food is all laid out | 0:30:16 | 0:30:20 | |
and carefully worked out. You know how easy it is in the kitchen to bump into people, | 0:30:20 | 0:30:24 | |
at the dishwasher, at the sink, at the stove. Here it's big enough | 0:30:24 | 0:30:28 | |
for all the food to be brought from these tables | 0:30:28 | 0:30:31 | |
to the serving hatch, which is huge, here, | 0:30:31 | 0:30:34 | |
and from there into the great hall. | 0:30:34 | 0:30:36 | |
'The provision of a fine table was essential to a lord's standing in society.' | 0:30:49 | 0:30:54 | |
I can't eat all that! | 0:30:54 | 0:30:56 | |
'At a medieval feast, there were as many as 24 different dishes. | 0:30:56 | 0:31:02 | |
'They were served by the carver | 0:31:02 | 0:31:05 | |
'in delicate pieces, laid on thick bread, which acted as a plate.' Mmm! | 0:31:05 | 0:31:10 | |
That's spectacular. | 0:31:10 | 0:31:13 | |
-The first course done. -I need a drink. | 0:31:14 | 0:31:17 | |
'Everybody drank. A visiting Italian monk said, | 0:31:17 | 0:31:21 | |
' "the English delight in drink and make it their business to drain full goblets." | 0:31:21 | 0:31:26 | |
'No change there, then. | 0:31:28 | 0:31:30 | |
'Medieval specialities included roast rabbit, of course, | 0:31:32 | 0:31:37 | |
'castles made of pastry served flambe...' Lord! | 0:31:37 | 0:31:40 | |
'And the cockatrice - the head of a cockerel | 0:31:40 | 0:31:43 | |
'sewn onto the back end of a pig.' | 0:31:43 | 0:31:45 | |
Oh...! | 0:31:45 | 0:31:48 | |
They must sometimes have said, "I just want to have a boiled egg and go to bed early." No? | 0:31:58 | 0:32:04 | |
-No. -No? | 0:32:04 | 0:32:06 | |
But there was one thing that wealth and power couldn't protect you from, | 0:32:16 | 0:32:21 | |
which made lord and peasant equal... | 0:32:21 | 0:32:24 | |
..the devastating effects of the Plague. | 0:32:26 | 0:32:29 | |
In 1348, the Black Death struck England. | 0:32:31 | 0:32:36 | |
The deadly disease began with swellings in the groin, | 0:32:37 | 0:32:40 | |
the eruption of black pustules all over the body | 0:32:40 | 0:32:44 | |
and the vomiting of blood. | 0:32:44 | 0:32:45 | |
Within hours came an agonising death as victims coughed uncontrollably | 0:32:47 | 0:32:53 | |
and drowned in the fluid in their lungs. | 0:32:53 | 0:32:55 | |
The Great Plague killed almost half the people of England. | 0:32:59 | 0:33:06 | |
But, for the peasants who survived, the devastation brought benefits, | 0:33:06 | 0:33:11 | |
the promise of a better life. | 0:33:11 | 0:33:14 | |
The sudden shortage of labour meant they could demand their freedom | 0:33:14 | 0:33:19 | |
and higher wages for their work. | 0:33:19 | 0:33:21 | |
Swathes of the countryside were neglected for lack of manpower. | 0:33:21 | 0:33:26 | |
What was to be done? | 0:33:27 | 0:33:29 | |
This was the answer. | 0:33:30 | 0:33:32 | |
SHEEP BLEAT | 0:33:32 | 0:33:34 | |
Come on, in you go. | 0:33:47 | 0:33:50 | |
'Sheep-rearing didn't need as many labourers as growing corn. | 0:33:50 | 0:33:54 | |
'Sheep produced meat and, most valuable of all, they produced wool.' | 0:33:54 | 0:33:58 | |
This beauty is a Lincoln Long Wool sheep. | 0:34:02 | 0:34:05 | |
And this huge fleece, just look at the thickness of it! | 0:34:05 | 0:34:09 | |
This was what brought prosperity back to East Anglia, it's this animal that's responsible | 0:34:09 | 0:34:15 | |
for the building of towns and villages and some of the finest churches England has. | 0:34:15 | 0:34:21 | |
You don't realise that, do you, hey? | 0:34:22 | 0:34:24 | |
-Like that? -Yeah. -Sure? | 0:34:29 | 0:34:32 | |
..Was that something I said? | 0:34:36 | 0:34:38 | |
There is no sheep that produces the quantity | 0:34:40 | 0:34:43 | |
or the length or the strength | 0:34:43 | 0:34:46 | |
-of wool that the Lincoln does. -The length of the thread or whatever? | 0:34:46 | 0:34:50 | |
-It can be up to 1ft long. -Really? | 0:34:50 | 0:34:53 | |
-They're wonderful-looking, they look as if they've got dreadlocks, don't they? -Oh, yes, yes. | 0:34:53 | 0:34:58 | |
-A sort of Rasta look. -Yes. -How much do you get for a fleece now? | 0:34:58 | 0:35:02 | |
Unfortunately, the price is going down this year but about £4.50. | 0:35:02 | 0:35:06 | |
-£4.50?! -Yes. -What, for all that wool? | 0:35:06 | 0:35:09 | |
-Yes. -I don't believe it. -Well, farming doesn't pay very well. | 0:35:09 | 0:35:12 | |
-But that's less than they'd have got in the 14th century. -Well, it is. | 0:35:12 | 0:35:16 | |
I think rams then were worth about £15 to £20, | 0:35:16 | 0:35:20 | |
whereas the labourers probably got a shilling a week, | 0:35:20 | 0:35:23 | |
or something like... probably even less than that. | 0:35:23 | 0:35:26 | |
So you can understand why people sometimes stole sheep, and were hanged for it. | 0:35:26 | 0:35:32 | |
Lincolnshire's prize wool was transported south to Suffolk | 0:35:42 | 0:35:46 | |
where new towns grew up, devoted to turning the wool into cloth. | 0:35:46 | 0:35:51 | |
The peaceful town of Lavenham was once one of the richest towns | 0:35:53 | 0:35:56 | |
in medieval England, thanks to this boom in the cloth industry. | 0:35:56 | 0:36:01 | |
Whole streets of medieval houses and workshops survive here. | 0:36:03 | 0:36:08 | |
They were built by rich cloth merchants in the most flamboyant style. | 0:36:11 | 0:36:15 | |
A street like this looks quaint, picturesque to our eyes, | 0:36:22 | 0:36:27 | |
but five centuries ago it would have been far from quaint or picturesque. | 0:36:27 | 0:36:31 | |
This would have been a noisy place day and night. Men shouting as bales of wool were unloaded | 0:36:31 | 0:36:37 | |
from the horses that have come down from Lincolnshire. Women gossiping as they washed | 0:36:37 | 0:36:41 | |
and sorted and carded the wool Women on the doorstep spinning the yarn. | 0:36:41 | 0:36:47 | |
Men working on the looms inside, turning the yarn into cloth. | 0:36:47 | 0:36:52 | |
And then there were the dyers - Lavenham's famous | 0:36:52 | 0:36:55 | |
for something called Lavenham Blue - | 0:36:55 | 0:36:57 | |
with great big vats of boiling water with woad added to it. | 0:36:57 | 0:37:01 | |
And the effluent from the vats would come running down a drain in the middle of this street | 0:37:01 | 0:37:06 | |
and not just that stinking mess | 0:37:06 | 0:37:08 | |
but urine, the droppings of horses, offal from the butcher's shops, | 0:37:08 | 0:37:14 | |
and human excrement, which was simply taken out of the houses and dropped in the street. | 0:37:14 | 0:37:18 | |
The whole place was a stinking mess. | 0:37:18 | 0:37:22 | |
'As the town grew, a way had to be found to cope with pollution from the cloth industry.' | 0:37:33 | 0:37:39 | |
Ugh! | 0:37:40 | 0:37:42 | |
Lavenham was rich enough to find a solution. | 0:37:44 | 0:37:47 | |
In the 1520s, they simply covered over the drain, they built this beautiful brick culvert, | 0:37:47 | 0:37:53 | |
and down it came all the effluent, all the sewage. | 0:37:53 | 0:37:58 | |
They were the envy of towns and cities all over England. | 0:37:58 | 0:38:03 | |
Lavenham's houses belonged to a rising middle class | 0:38:10 | 0:38:14 | |
who could afford to build in style. | 0:38:14 | 0:38:17 | |
'Their homes and their meeting halls were comfortable and airy. | 0:38:23 | 0:38:27 | |
'They could buy glass for their windows, | 0:38:27 | 0:38:31 | |
'a luxury in medieval England. | 0:38:31 | 0:38:33 | |
'Later they began to decorate their homes with elaborate plaster work | 0:38:39 | 0:38:43 | |
'known as pargeting. | 0:38:43 | 0:38:46 | |
'A mixture of sand, lime and animal hair | 0:39:01 | 0:39:05 | |
'was applied to the building and shaped into intricate patterns.' | 0:39:05 | 0:39:09 | |
If I fill in this bit here... | 0:39:09 | 0:39:12 | |
Perfect. | 0:39:12 | 0:39:13 | |
-Not much of a pattern I'm making. -That looks all right to me. | 0:39:13 | 0:39:17 | |
The pargeter had to work fast | 0:39:19 | 0:39:22 | |
to finish his design before the plaster dried hard. | 0:39:22 | 0:39:25 | |
It looks like making mud pies, doesn't it, though? | 0:39:28 | 0:39:32 | |
-Well, it is a similar sort of thing, only on walls. -Do you enjoy doing it? | 0:39:32 | 0:39:36 | |
I love doing it. Every job's a challenge. You're thinking before, | 0:39:36 | 0:39:41 | |
"What am I going to do? How am I going to do it? What's the best kind of design?" | 0:39:41 | 0:39:45 | |
And, eh, this is lovely, I never get tired of doing it, | 0:39:45 | 0:39:49 | |
never ever get tired of doing it. | 0:39:49 | 0:39:54 | |
You could have some mischief with this, couldn't you? | 0:39:51 | 0:39:54 | |
Something like that wouldn't occur to me! | 0:39:54 | 0:39:57 | |
What's the most mischievous thing you've done? | 0:39:57 | 0:40:00 | |
Eh, I never HAVE done, actually, I don't think. | 0:40:00 | 0:40:03 | |
-Have you not? -Oh, yes, I did. I done a job for some people | 0:40:03 | 0:40:06 | |
and right at the end they wanted a barn owl. | 0:40:06 | 0:40:09 | |
Then they told me they didn't have all my money ready, so I put a rat in its beak. | 0:40:09 | 0:40:13 | |
And it's still on their gable, a barn owl with a big rat hanging out of its beak. | 0:40:13 | 0:40:17 | |
CHURCH BELL RINGS | 0:40:20 | 0:40:23 | |
Travel through Suffolk and you'll see magnificent churches everywhere, | 0:40:31 | 0:40:35 | |
built by locals who grew rich on cloth. | 0:40:35 | 0:40:39 | |
It's sometimes called Silly Suffolk today, | 0:40:41 | 0:40:44 | |
but that's from the Anglo-Saxon "seely", meaning "blessed". | 0:40:44 | 0:40:48 | |
"What would you be, you wide East Anglian sky, without a church to recognise you by?" | 0:40:57 | 0:41:03 | |
The words of the Poet Laureate John Betjeman, | 0:41:03 | 0:41:06 | |
who encouraged people to go, not pub-crawling, but church-crawling. | 0:41:06 | 0:41:10 | |
The Holy Trinity in Blythburgh is a must for any church crawl. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:26 | |
The great glory of Blythburgh | 0:41:33 | 0:41:36 | |
are these pairs of angels | 0:41:36 | 0:41:39 | |
supporting the roof, all the way down the nave, | 0:41:39 | 0:41:43 | |
looking like eagles with their wings outstretched. Really exciting. | 0:41:43 | 0:41:47 | |
Every church has something special about it - round tower, thatch tower - | 0:41:52 | 0:41:57 | |
each has its own unique treasure. | 0:41:57 | 0:41:59 | |
'St Peter's in Wenhaston boasts a breathtaking survival from the Middle Ages.' | 0:42:03 | 0:42:09 | |
A strange thing happened in this church. | 0:42:14 | 0:42:16 | |
Towards the end of the 19th century, the Victorians, who loved restoring churches, | 0:42:16 | 0:42:21 | |
were busy putting in that new archway there. | 0:42:21 | 0:42:23 | |
And to do so they had to take out a great piece of wood, all covered in whitewash. | 0:42:23 | 0:42:28 | |
And the workmen simply took it outside and put it in the churchyard overnight. | 0:42:28 | 0:42:33 | |
That night there was a torrential downpour and in the morning the workmen came back... | 0:42:33 | 0:42:40 | |
and this is what they found. | 0:42:40 | 0:42:43 | |
Under the whitewash was this terrifying vision | 0:42:47 | 0:42:51 | |
of the Day of Judgment. | 0:42:51 | 0:42:54 | |
The souls of the dead are weighed by St Michael as the Devil looks on. | 0:42:54 | 0:42:59 | |
The good are received into heaven, | 0:42:59 | 0:43:02 | |
the sinners chained and cast into hell. | 0:43:02 | 0:43:06 | |
This vision of heaven and hell doesn't mean much to us now, | 0:43:07 | 0:43:11 | |
but in the Middle Ages people were really fearful about the Day of Judgment. | 0:43:11 | 0:43:16 | |
And it's what led to some of the greatest churches and cathedrals, | 0:43:16 | 0:43:20 | |
because people poured their money into these buildings, to maintain them, to endow them, | 0:43:20 | 0:43:25 | |
not for THIS world but because of their concern for what would happen in the next. | 0:43:25 | 0:43:31 | |
Fear of death preyed on the medieval mind. | 0:43:34 | 0:43:39 | |
And it's not hard to see why. | 0:43:39 | 0:43:41 | |
The skeletons in the graveyard of St Margaret's church in Norwich have been exhumed and analysed. | 0:43:43 | 0:43:49 | |
The bones tell a grim tale. | 0:43:52 | 0:43:55 | |
Over half the skeletons that were dug up | 0:44:08 | 0:44:11 | |
were found to be suffering either from illnesses | 0:44:11 | 0:44:15 | |
or from severe injuries. | 0:44:15 | 0:44:17 | |
Now, this one, for instance, | 0:44:17 | 0:44:19 | |
the bottom of the leg bone, that curve | 0:44:19 | 0:44:23 | |
is a symptom of rickets caused by malnutrition, a bad diet. | 0:44:23 | 0:44:28 | |
The forearm here... | 0:44:28 | 0:44:30 | |
..has been broken | 0:44:31 | 0:44:33 | |
and not properly set, but has somehow healed itself. | 0:44:33 | 0:44:37 | |
And then this skull... | 0:44:41 | 0:44:43 | |
..the skull should be smooth on the inside. | 0:44:45 | 0:44:48 | |
In fact, if you look at this one, | 0:44:48 | 0:44:51 | |
it's got little scars all around it, like lesions, | 0:44:51 | 0:44:54 | |
and that's a symptom of syphilis. | 0:44:54 | 0:44:58 | |
Two thirds of children died before the age of 12. | 0:44:59 | 0:45:04 | |
Even if you lived beyond 12, you couldn't expect a long life. | 0:45:04 | 0:45:09 | |
The average age of death was the early 30s. | 0:45:09 | 0:45:13 | |
One way to ward off illness and misfortune was to go on a pilgrimage. | 0:45:31 | 0:45:36 | |
Up in the north of Norfolk is the village of Little Walsingham. | 0:45:42 | 0:45:46 | |
Legend has it that the Virgin Mary appeared here in 1061. | 0:45:54 | 0:45:59 | |
Thank you. Thank you very much. | 0:45:59 | 0:46:01 | |
-Thank you so much. -OK. | 0:46:01 | 0:46:03 | |
By the 13th century, Walsingham ranked alongside Rome and Jerusalem | 0:46:03 | 0:46:08 | |
as a place of pilgrimage. It became known as England's Nazareth. | 0:46:08 | 0:46:13 | |
Kings, nobles and the common people came on pilgrimage here | 0:46:30 | 0:46:34 | |
to affirm their faith and to pay homage to Our Lady of Walsingham. | 0:46:34 | 0:46:40 | |
Slipper Chapel is the last in a whole series of chapels that lead up to Walsingham. | 0:46:54 | 0:46:59 | |
Not Slipper as some people think because people took their shoes off to walk barefoot, | 0:46:59 | 0:47:05 | |
but from the word "slipe", meaning to slide, to move, | 0:47:05 | 0:47:09 | |
from the rest of England into the Holy Land of Walsingham. | 0:47:09 | 0:47:14 | |
It's the last stop before the pilgrims reach the shrine. | 0:47:14 | 0:47:17 | |
Today, pilgrims still come, as they did in medieval times, to walk in procession | 0:47:25 | 0:47:31 | |
the last leg of their journey along a road known as the Holy Mile. | 0:47:31 | 0:47:35 | |
A medieval writer said of Walsingham, "Many sick have been cured | 0:47:40 | 0:47:45 | |
"by Our Lady's power, the dead revived, the lame made whole, | 0:47:45 | 0:47:49 | |
"the blind have had their sight restored." | 0:47:49 | 0:47:52 | |
..Hail Mary, full of grace, the Lord is with thee... | 0:47:52 | 0:47:55 | |
..Holy Mary, Mother of God, pray for our sinners now and at the hour of our death. Amen. | 0:47:55 | 0:48:00 | |
The final stop on the pilgrims' journey, the ruins of Walsingham Priory. | 0:48:00 | 0:48:05 | |
It was built in 1150 | 0:48:14 | 0:48:17 | |
to celebrate the miraculous appearance of the Virgin. | 0:48:17 | 0:48:21 | |
Today, all that remains is a magnificent turreted arch. | 0:48:22 | 0:48:26 | |
The pilgrimage to Little Walsingham is like nothing else in Britain. | 0:48:31 | 0:48:36 | |
It's an extraordinary reminder of a vanished religious era. | 0:48:37 | 0:48:42 | |
The Middle Ages are alive and well in Little Walsingham. | 0:48:43 | 0:48:48 | |
As the Middle Ages drew to a close, | 0:48:59 | 0:49:01 | |
England settled into a new period of peace and prosperity. | 0:49:01 | 0:49:06 | |
The days of looking nervously over your shoulder were passing, | 0:49:06 | 0:49:10 | |
and the fortified castle gave way to the country house. | 0:49:10 | 0:49:14 | |
Oxburgh Hall, near King's Lynn, was built towards the end of the 15th century. | 0:49:21 | 0:49:27 | |
It could be a castle - gatehouse, moat, battlements, all present and correct. | 0:49:38 | 0:49:44 | |
But this building isn't about defence, it's about display. | 0:49:44 | 0:49:49 | |
Those battlements aren't there to shield archers, they're just decoration. | 0:49:53 | 0:49:58 | |
The moat provides a nice reflection, not protection from attack. | 0:50:01 | 0:50:05 | |
And instead of blocks of defensive stone, | 0:50:06 | 0:50:10 | |
a new building material was used - brick. | 0:50:10 | 0:50:13 | |
In the early 15th century it was very expensive, used pretty well only by the king. | 0:50:13 | 0:50:17 | |
But by the time Oxburgh was built it had become readily available here. | 0:50:17 | 0:50:21 | |
And it allowed the owner not only to look grand | 0:50:21 | 0:50:25 | |
but also to be in the fashion. | 0:50:25 | 0:50:28 | |
The fashion was to use brick to do what you couldn't easily do with stone. | 0:50:37 | 0:50:41 | |
The gatehouse uses bands of brick on the front to make it look | 0:50:44 | 0:50:48 | |
as if it's eight storeys high, a medieval skyscraper, to impress visitors. | 0:50:48 | 0:50:53 | |
'But all isn't what it seems. | 0:50:53 | 0:50:57 | |
'Go through the archway into the courtyard on the other side, and in fact it's only three storeys high.' | 0:50:57 | 0:51:03 | |
Towards the end of the Middle Ages, | 0:51:16 | 0:51:19 | |
the rich were using the trappings of fortifications like this | 0:51:19 | 0:51:23 | |
to suggest power, prestige, perhaps a little touch of romance. | 0:51:23 | 0:51:29 | |
Buildings were harking back to the past | 0:51:30 | 0:51:33 | |
while at the same time looking forward to a new age. | 0:51:33 | 0:51:38 | |
For the final part of my journey I'm travelling back across the fens of East Anglia | 0:51:55 | 0:52:02 | |
to a place where the medieval age reached its peak of sophistication - | 0:52:02 | 0:52:06 | |
the University of Cambridge. | 0:52:06 | 0:52:09 | |
The Middle Ages began with buildings that grew out of conquest and oppression. | 0:52:18 | 0:52:23 | |
Now came a nobler aim, the pursuit of knowledge and learning. | 0:52:23 | 0:52:29 | |
The building of Cambridge University began in the 13th century. | 0:52:31 | 0:52:36 | |
Its growth caused fury among the townsfolk | 0:52:36 | 0:52:39 | |
because it threatened their prosperity as a thriving riverside port. | 0:52:39 | 0:52:45 | |
But the building of King's College sealed the fate of the town. | 0:52:46 | 0:52:50 | |
When Henry VI decided to build King's College, he faced every developer's nightmare. | 0:52:56 | 0:53:01 | |
The land from here down to the river was full of houses, of shops, | 0:53:01 | 0:53:05 | |
lanes going down to the wharves. | 0:53:05 | 0:53:08 | |
There was a church, there were two pubs. | 0:53:08 | 0:53:10 | |
But being the monarch, of course, he simply razed the lot to the ground, | 0:53:10 | 0:53:14 | |
and in doing so he cut off the town from the river. | 0:53:14 | 0:53:19 | |
It was the beginning of the university's takeover of Cambridge. | 0:53:19 | 0:53:23 | |
Narrow streets and dank lanes gave way to the most magnificent building | 0:53:29 | 0:53:34 | |
in the university - King's College Chapel. | 0:53:34 | 0:53:37 | |
Henry VI wanted to astonish people by building a chapel | 0:53:49 | 0:53:53 | |
bigger than anything they'd ever seen before. | 0:53:53 | 0:53:56 | |
It was 70 years and six monarchs before it was completed, | 0:53:56 | 0:54:01 | |
but when it was, it stood as the most magnificent memorial to medieval man. | 0:54:01 | 0:54:07 | |
The delicacy and elegance of the stonework | 0:54:34 | 0:54:37 | |
was unlike anything seen before. | 0:54:37 | 0:54:40 | |
We've travelled a long way from the Normans with their solid, powerful, rather severe buildings | 0:54:47 | 0:54:53 | |
to this end of the Middle Ages, | 0:54:53 | 0:54:56 | |
with this wonderful lightness and exuberance. | 0:54:56 | 0:54:59 | |
The final flowering of medieval architecture. | 0:54:59 | 0:55:03 | |
The building is a miraculous feat of engineering. | 0:55:10 | 0:55:14 | |
From slender columns at the side, | 0:55:25 | 0:55:27 | |
stone ribs soar heavenwards | 0:55:27 | 0:55:31 | |
to the crowning glory, the fan vaulted ceiling. | 0:55:31 | 0:55:34 | |
Its sheer scale is breathtaking. | 0:55:36 | 0:55:39 | |
It's the largest fan vault in the world. | 0:55:39 | 0:55:43 | |
This is quite astonishing. I'm standing under the great roof | 0:56:00 | 0:56:05 | |
of the chapel, these are the wooden beans that support it. | 0:56:05 | 0:56:08 | |
But what I'm standing ON is the top of the ceiling, | 0:56:08 | 0:56:11 | |
the fan vaulted ceiling. | 0:56:11 | 0:56:13 | |
And the stone here is only 12 centimetres thick, | 0:56:13 | 0:56:18 | |
almost like an eggshell supporting nearly 2,000 tons of stone. | 0:56:18 | 0:56:24 | |
You almost feel you could fall through. | 0:56:25 | 0:56:27 | |
When they built this ceiling, they cut holes through it | 0:56:46 | 0:56:50 | |
so that they could communicate with the stonemason on the other side. | 0:56:50 | 0:56:54 | |
And the holes have been left here. If you look through, | 0:56:54 | 0:56:56 | |
you can see right down to the choir stalls, | 0:56:56 | 0:57:01 | |
about 100ft below me. Very tempting, if you were a schoolboy, | 0:57:01 | 0:57:07 | |
to throw little stink bombs down in the middle of evensong. | 0:57:07 | 0:57:12 | |
Staring at this ceiling sends me into a kind of trance-like state... | 0:57:31 | 0:57:36 | |
..almost like a dream... | 0:57:37 | 0:57:40 | |
..listening to fine music. | 0:57:41 | 0:57:44 | |
It's SO beautiful. | 0:57:46 | 0:57:48 | |
It's just what the builders wanted - | 0:57:51 | 0:57:55 | |
to make it look like a dream | 0:57:55 | 0:57:58 | |
so you didn't believe it was real. | 0:57:58 | 0:58:01 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:58:43 | 0:58:46 |