The East: A New Dawn How We Built Britain


The East: A New Dawn

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This is a journey through Britain and through 1,000 years of our history,

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to see how we've built the country we live in.

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We are reflected in our buildings.

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They tell us who we are.

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Sometimes fearless and heroic,

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sometimes exuberant,

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often ambitious.

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When we reach for the skies...

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..we can be innovative and industrious.

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But we have a cosy side...

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..an eccentric streak

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and a taste for fun.

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This is the story of Britain told through its buildings

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and the people who built them.

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Our journey starts in the east of England.

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In the Middle Ages this was the richest corner of the country

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where out of conflict and conquest arose buildings the like of which we'd never seen.

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These glorious buildings are more than just objects of great beauty,

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they marked the beginning of a new era of progress and sophistication.

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It was here in the medieval east that the foundations of modern Britain were laid.

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1066, Britain is conquered by the Normans.

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William the Conqueror is waging a ferocious campaign to subdue England.

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The last outpost of Anglo-Saxon resistance, the Fenlands of East Anglia and the Isle of Ely.

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Ely used to be a treacherous place, an island surrounded by these bogs and marshes.

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It got its name from the huge number of eels that used to be caught here.

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And the only people who were safe were the fen men, who according to legend, had webbed feet.

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It was only when the Isle of Ely fell that the conquest was complete.

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After the devastation of war,

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work started on the building of a new world.

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Towering over this flat landscape, Ely Cathedral,

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the start of the first construction boom in our history.

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It was the birth of modern Britain.

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The Normans were visionary builders.

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And they used their skills to make the conquered population cower before them.

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Imagine what it must have been like if you lived as a villager here,

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you know, in a low-lying house, quite modest,

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and suddenly in your midst arose this enormous building

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made of stone and taller than anything you'd ever seen in your life before.

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For medieval man, to build a cathedral was to build paradise on earth.

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Every part was beautifully crafted,

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stonework almost out of sight but so finely made

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for God, not man, to see.

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What's one to say? The first feeling coming into this place

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is just a sense of...awe,

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of the majesty of a building so glorious, so vast.

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This high, high, high nave with its pillars.

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And you think, "How did a building like this get to be built

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"so many hundreds of years ago?

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"Who were the people that were prepared to spend the time

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"and the energy creating this great monument,

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"when nothing like it existed?"

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It's just breathtaking!

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If you were making a cathedral like this today, you'd have architectural plans, engineering drawings,

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structural engineers poring over all the stresses and the load-bearing walls and the rest of it.

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And after a long time they'd probably conclude it couldn't be built anyway cos it would fall down.

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Now, this building was built entirely

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by the knowledge, the experience of the master masons who made it.

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The miracle is, and I think even they would have been astonished,

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that almost 1,000 years later it's still standing.

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You couldn't rush the building of a medieval cathedral. Ely took almost 300 years

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Thousands of tons of stone was quarried 50 miles away

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and brought to Ely by boat.

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Working with little more than a set square, some compasses

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and a knowledge of geometry,

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medieval masons were able to raise this glorious building to the heavens.

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And 1,000 years later stonemasons are still working -

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repairing and restoring it.

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You see it from a distance and you feel you've put your mark on it,

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-you can feel proud of what you've done.

-Feel part of it's yours?

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I think every stone you put in, it's yours, you know.

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It sounds strange, but every stone you touch and put in, on any building, you know,

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you've done it and you'll respect that building for it.

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'Stonemasons have a tradition. They leave tokens behind for future generations to find.'

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Ah! It's too steep, I get vertigo looking at it.

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'I wanted to leave a time capsule of my own, to puzzle people 1,000 years from now.'

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So, there's a bill for a week's shopping,

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a packet of cigarettes saying "smoking kills" -

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because I think by the time it's opened, nobody will know what cigarettes are -

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a week's television programmes, so they can see the kind of stuff we watched.

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And finally a Mars bar. I don't know why it's there,

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but I've said, "You may live there by now."

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So I thought they'd feel at home.

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-Can I say goodbye to the box?

-Yes.

-Lovely.

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You can see that sort of fits there.

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Great, it's not going to fall out.

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Well, fill this, some muck in there, and then fill the back.

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Time capsule's gone for a few hundred years

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and we're happy, job's done, and then onto the next one.

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It's wonderful to see a bit of work like this all hand-carved,

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this decoration here, way out of sight of anybody on the ground.

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You can just see it if you look up, get a slight feel of it.

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-And yet so much love and attention has been paid to it.

-Yeah.

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It's extraordinary, beautiful.

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What's really exciting about Ely Cathedral

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is this feeling of the energy, the determination of the people who built it.

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For 1,000 years, time has been spent restoring and embellishing it,

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to make sure it stands for another 1,000 years.

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In the years after the Conquest, the land that wasn't given to the Church

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was shared out between a handful of William's loyal followers.

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And to secure their hold on the country, they introduced a building

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never before seen in England - the castle.

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Within a generation of their arrival,

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the Normans had built over 500 castles.

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50 miles south of Ely, across the border into Essex, is one of the finest.

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Hedingham Castle, built around 1140,

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is a monument to Norman might.

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The idea behind a Norman castle wasn't just to establish power over an area,

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it was actually to frighten people with the authority and wealth of the family who built it.

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And this is the keep of a castle of a very, very powerful family indeed, the De Veres.

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They were known as "The Fighting Veres",

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an elite warrior class of noblemen who owed their position to the king

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and who in return fought for him.

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Their castles were built to overpower and intimidate.

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If attacked, they could hold their own.

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Massive walls, 12-feet thick, protected them again battering rams.

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Narrow windows shielded them from missiles.

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And a raised entrance to the first floor made it harder for enemies to penetrate.

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The staircase was built in a clockwise direction.

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And there's a reason for that, too. It's so that it you were under attack,

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you could fight your way back with your right arm free to attack your enemy,

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whereas he, had this in the way

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and couldn't ever get his arm free.

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'But this wasn't just a fortress, it was a place of ritual and ceremony.

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'You came here to pay homage to your lord.'

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This is the grandest room in the castle, the banqueting hall,

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where the mighty De Veres held court.

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This was the centre of their empire.

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It's where knights would come and swear loyalty to them and obedience,

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putting their hands between the hands of the De Veres.

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And it's decorated to show that grand style,

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that need to impress people who came here.

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Beautiful decorations, zigzag decorations round the curved arches and the fireplace.

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Hangings on the wall would all have been tapestries.

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And then this magnificent archway,

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huge Norman arch,

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it's the widest arch built by the Normans left standing.

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In the Middle Ages almost everyone lived off the land.

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Landlords grew rich by forcing their tenants to work for them.

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We were a nation of peasants shackled to the lord of the manor.

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Cressing Temple, in Essex, the heart of a medieval estate

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and, if you worked here, a medieval production line.

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This was once a hugely profitable farm complex

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with a brew house, a granary, a dairy and a water mill.

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Two 13th-century barns survive,

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so magnificent, they're known as "cathedrals of the countryside".

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It's no coincidence that these are called cathedrals,

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because it was designed on the same basis as a big church -

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the nave here, and an aisle each side.

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So it copied the way that medieval churches were built.

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It even seems a place of quiet contemplation, as it is now.

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But not so - this was the factory at the centre of the whole estate,

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a place that thrummed with industry.

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At the time of harvest the corn would be cut and brought into this barn.

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There's always a high entrance and a low entrance.

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The high one for the wagon piled up with corn,

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the low one, when it's been emptied, you don't need the height. Then the corn would be stacked here.

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And what they did was to start at the low level

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and use a horse to trample it down,

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so it really used as little space as possible.

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Then you started the threshing process, using this flail.

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You spread the corn on the floor

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and for hour after hour you stood and simply beat it

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until the grain was beaten...

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out of the top of the sheaves of corn.

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Oh! Until your flail broke!

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And at that point you had to go hungry.

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It took nearly 500 trees to create one barn at Cressing.

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Oak was the most popular building material in the Middle Ages,

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and woodland was carefully managed to produce just the right size of timber.

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Tightly packed trees grow tall and straight

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to reach the light - perfect for construction.

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The tools that we used then were very efficient for their time.

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And they did evolve over a period of time to become even more efficient.

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This is very handsome.

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This is a copy of an 11th-century axe,

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and you can see an axe identical in the margins of the Bayeux Tapestry

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from the second half of the 11th century.

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'To make a beam, the bark is first removed

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'and then the log is hewn square.'

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I wonder what you thought about all day while you were doing this! Mm?

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-Evil thoughts!

-Who knows?

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I think revolutionary thoughts would come to MY mind

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if I was doing this for three pence a day.

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'When that's done, the timber is sawn over great trestles.'

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-So what am I called?

-You're the underdog.

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-I'm the top dog.

-Oh, right. Did they really call them that?

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-I get paid more than you.

-Why?

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Because I'm responsible for looking after the saw.

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But it's much harder pulling down. I'm doing all the work.

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You stop, you see if you can do it by yourself, I bet you can't.

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'The next stage is to cut the joints.'

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God, it weighs a ton!

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Ah! It's like steel.

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'The framework of the barn is pre-fabricated on the ground.

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'Each piece is made to fit its neighbour, so the carpenters

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'cut marks to allow the timbers to be reassembled in the right place.

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'You can see the medieval carpenter's marks

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'all through the barn.'

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Right...

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And there we have it - a pair of rafters and a collar for a medieval roof.

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'This simple joint took us all morning.

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'And there are 1,500 in the barn at Cressing.'

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I'm going north now, to an undisturbed wilderness in the heart of East Anglia...

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..the Brecklands.

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In the Middle Ages much of the land that wasn't farmed

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was reserved by the rich for sport and leisure.

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The Brecklands were home to what might seem a rather lowly pursuit for a lord...

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..hunting rabbits.

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In the 13th century, the right to breed and hunt rabbits

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was a fiercely guarded privilege.

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Their meat was an expensive delicacy, their fur a luxury.

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They were carefully nurtured in special enclosures

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and guarded by a warrener.

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This warrener's lodge near Thetford once stood in open heathland.

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The warrener's lodge was on two floors.

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This ground floor was a storeroom

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with thick walls and small windows to protect it.

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And here there'd be the nets, the lamps, the snares,

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racks to hold the valuable rabbit skins and the rabbit flesh itself.

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And then a staircase up here which goes up to the first floor

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and that was where the warrener lived with his family,

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so a huge fireplace,

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and windows all the way around. And a final tower at the top there,

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so that he could look out with a view, 360 degrees, of the whole warren.

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Just as the warrener protected his rabbits, so his lodge protected him.

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His home was built to be a fortress.

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It's a very fine building, these lovely stones on the corner

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and the flint work, almost too grand you might think for it's purpose,

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but the warrener faced real enemies, gangs of marauding poachers

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armed with bows and arrows and sticks, who'd come after him.

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And there was another reason. This lodge could be seen for miles around,

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and it said to everybody, "This is a private warren and the warrener is there to protect it."

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That's an albino ferret, he's about three years old.

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He's in his prime, ferret never get no better.

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-You can hold him if you like.

-He's a biter, that one?

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-No. It bit me, mind you.

-Did it?

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Why won't it bite me, then?

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Do you train them to go after rabbits or is it just natural?

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No, it's just a natural instinct. Like me, hopefully.

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'Warreners still use the old methods

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'to control the rabbit population.

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'These rabbits are being rounded up to be moved to another warren nearby.'

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It's an old, old skill being a warrener, isn't it?

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Well, it is. It's a family thing as well.

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Our family, going back, to my knowledge, five, six generations

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have been warreners and probably before that. It's a gift, if you like.

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What's the appeal?

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Just, you know, a lovely, natural feeling you get with the rabbits and all the wildlife.

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And, eh...to be able to...

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love wildlife as well as control, like, where you have to, and make the balance.

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And that seems a good way of life to me.

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I'm on my way to Lincolnshire, to a place which reminds me who I am.

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My family used to come from this part of the world,

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a tiny little hamlet called Dembleby. Haven't been... Here we are!

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Oops. Turn left, hold on tight. Whoa!

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Haven't been here for 40 years, over 40 years.

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Dembleby.

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It's a Viking name, we're Vikings. It means a little stream going through a valley,

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which is what it is. Dembleby, "Please drive slowly

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"through our village." Through my village!

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Dembleby's changed very little since the Middle Ages, it's just a few houses and a parish church.

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-Hello, how do you do?

-Good to meet you.

-David Dimbleby.

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-How many people live in Dembleby now?

-35.

-What, 35 people in the village, is that it?

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-That's about it yes, yeah.

-I think I better come back and live here and increase the population by 10%!

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Has it been very difficult to find any references to Dimblebys?

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No, I mean, these are the... I've looked in two books and there they were.

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'The local historian had done some digging to find out what my medieval ancestors were up to.'

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This is the 1341 Royal Inquest in Lincolnshire

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and, um, here we have... Where is he...? Can you see him on here?

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-Thomas de Dembleby.

-Yes.

-Chaplain.

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"On the 14th of June 1339 at Lincoln,

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"feloniously killed Gilbert Sharpe..."

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-What, the chaplain?!

-"..Former servant of the parson of Leake."

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Is "feloniously killing" the same as murder?

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I'm trying to avoid saying it, I'm glad you're saying it.

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-So, a Dimbleby who was a chaplain...

-Yes.

-..Committed murder?

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Well, um, that's what it seems to say on the face of it.

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-Would you cease your historical research, please? Thank you very much!

-I will, indeed.

-Forthwith.

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Let's forget the murky past of the humble Dimblebys

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and see how the grand members of medieval society lived.

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Gainsborough Old Hall was built around 1460.

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It was the home of a rich, powerful and flamboyant knight, Sir Thomas Burgh.

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For much of the medieval period, everyone - the lord, his lady,

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their retainers and servants -

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would live in one big room like this.

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This is one of the last great halls left standing in England

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and what a wonderful sight it is.

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These black and white stripes, the plaster and the beams,

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the great beamed roof... Exactly as it would have looked

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except for one missing element - and that's the people.

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Because this was the centre of the household, this is where everything happened.

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It wasn't just that people ate here.

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They did all their business here, standing in groups in the corners,

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arguing, talking, warming themselves by the fire.

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And then as night fell, out came skins, rugs, whatever,

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and they all slept in here.

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It must have been a disgusting smell.

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This is a really impressive part of the house, the kitchen,

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which is one third the size of the great hall.

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Twelve people working here all day long, feeding anything from 50 to 100 people.

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And the whole thing tightly controlled because they had to make sure food wasn't stolen,

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that the work was done exactly as it should be.

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So the clerk was in charge, and he had his own office in here.

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You couldn't get into the kitchen without passing through his office,

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he'd check what you were up to,

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and came into the kitchen here.

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Now, here is a huge fireplace.

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And this is a boiling area,

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ladles and devices there for cooking with.

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There's a corner here for boiling meats, and meat hanging up.

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An extremely large wild boar waiting to be cut up.

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And then you come to the pastry ovens, where pastry and bread were done,

0:29:300:29:35

just like a pizza oven, if I can take this one out...

0:29:350:29:37

And then going on round is the roasting fireplace with a spit,

0:29:390:29:45

and here four people sat while they roasted, turning these.

0:29:450:29:50

I can't do it right. There we are, turning...

0:29:530:29:56

I don't know how that works.

0:29:560:29:58

Four people sat turning these spits, and it was so hot

0:29:580:30:02

that the four men working here

0:30:020:30:05

did their work stark naked, because if they had clothes on,

0:30:050:30:08

it would get fat on it and would catch fire.

0:30:080:30:11

It seems to me it might have been a bit dangerous being stark naked. But, anyway, that's what they did.

0:30:110:30:16

And then you come to the delivery of the food. The food is all laid out

0:30:160:30:20

and carefully worked out. You know how easy it is in the kitchen to bump into people,

0:30:200:30:24

at the dishwasher, at the sink, at the stove. Here it's big enough

0:30:240:30:28

for all the food to be brought from these tables

0:30:280:30:31

to the serving hatch, which is huge, here,

0:30:310:30:34

and from there into the great hall.

0:30:340:30:36

'The provision of a fine table was essential to a lord's standing in society.'

0:30:490:30:54

I can't eat all that!

0:30:540:30:56

'At a medieval feast, there were as many as 24 different dishes.

0:30:560:31:02

'They were served by the carver

0:31:020:31:05

'in delicate pieces, laid on thick bread, which acted as a plate.' Mmm!

0:31:050:31:10

That's spectacular.

0:31:100:31:13

-The first course done.

-I need a drink.

0:31:140:31:17

'Everybody drank. A visiting Italian monk said,

0:31:170:31:21

' "the English delight in drink and make it their business to drain full goblets."

0:31:210:31:26

'No change there, then.

0:31:280:31:30

'Medieval specialities included roast rabbit, of course,

0:31:320:31:37

'castles made of pastry served flambe...' Lord!

0:31:370:31:40

'And the cockatrice - the head of a cockerel

0:31:400:31:43

'sewn onto the back end of a pig.'

0:31:430:31:45

Oh...!

0:31:450:31:48

They must sometimes have said, "I just want to have a boiled egg and go to bed early." No?

0:31:580:32:04

-No.

-No?

0:32:040:32:06

But there was one thing that wealth and power couldn't protect you from,

0:32:160:32:21

which made lord and peasant equal...

0:32:210:32:24

..the devastating effects of the Plague.

0:32:260:32:29

In 1348, the Black Death struck England.

0:32:310:32:36

The deadly disease began with swellings in the groin,

0:32:370:32:40

the eruption of black pustules all over the body

0:32:400:32:44

and the vomiting of blood.

0:32:440:32:45

Within hours came an agonising death as victims coughed uncontrollably

0:32:470:32:53

and drowned in the fluid in their lungs.

0:32:530:32:55

The Great Plague killed almost half the people of England.

0:32:590:33:06

But, for the peasants who survived, the devastation brought benefits,

0:33:060:33:11

the promise of a better life.

0:33:110:33:14

The sudden shortage of labour meant they could demand their freedom

0:33:140:33:19

and higher wages for their work.

0:33:190:33:21

Swathes of the countryside were neglected for lack of manpower.

0:33:210:33:26

What was to be done?

0:33:270:33:29

This was the answer.

0:33:300:33:32

SHEEP BLEAT

0:33:320:33:34

Come on, in you go.

0:33:470:33:50

'Sheep-rearing didn't need as many labourers as growing corn.

0:33:500:33:54

'Sheep produced meat and, most valuable of all, they produced wool.'

0:33:540:33:58

This beauty is a Lincoln Long Wool sheep.

0:34:020:34:05

And this huge fleece, just look at the thickness of it!

0:34:050:34:09

This was what brought prosperity back to East Anglia, it's this animal that's responsible

0:34:090:34:15

for the building of towns and villages and some of the finest churches England has.

0:34:150:34:21

You don't realise that, do you, hey?

0:34:220:34:24

-Like that?

-Yeah.

-Sure?

0:34:290:34:32

..Was that something I said?

0:34:360:34:38

There is no sheep that produces the quantity

0:34:400:34:43

or the length or the strength

0:34:430:34:46

-of wool that the Lincoln does.

-The length of the thread or whatever?

0:34:460:34:50

-It can be up to 1ft long.

-Really?

0:34:500:34:53

-They're wonderful-looking, they look as if they've got dreadlocks, don't they?

-Oh, yes, yes.

0:34:530:34:58

-A sort of Rasta look.

-Yes.

-How much do you get for a fleece now?

0:34:580:35:02

Unfortunately, the price is going down this year but about £4.50.

0:35:020:35:06

-£4.50?!

-Yes.

-What, for all that wool?

0:35:060:35:09

-Yes.

-I don't believe it.

-Well, farming doesn't pay very well.

0:35:090:35:12

-But that's less than they'd have got in the 14th century.

-Well, it is.

0:35:120:35:16

I think rams then were worth about £15 to £20,

0:35:160:35:20

whereas the labourers probably got a shilling a week,

0:35:200:35:23

or something like... probably even less than that.

0:35:230:35:26

So you can understand why people sometimes stole sheep, and were hanged for it.

0:35:260:35:32

Lincolnshire's prize wool was transported south to Suffolk

0:35:420:35:46

where new towns grew up, devoted to turning the wool into cloth.

0:35:460:35:51

The peaceful town of Lavenham was once one of the richest towns

0:35:530:35:56

in medieval England, thanks to this boom in the cloth industry.

0:35:560:36:01

Whole streets of medieval houses and workshops survive here.

0:36:030:36:08

They were built by rich cloth merchants in the most flamboyant style.

0:36:110:36:15

A street like this looks quaint, picturesque to our eyes,

0:36:220:36:27

but five centuries ago it would have been far from quaint or picturesque.

0:36:270:36:31

This would have been a noisy place day and night. Men shouting as bales of wool were unloaded

0:36:310:36:37

from the horses that have come down from Lincolnshire. Women gossiping as they washed

0:36:370:36:41

and sorted and carded the wool Women on the doorstep spinning the yarn.

0:36:410:36:47

Men working on the looms inside, turning the yarn into cloth.

0:36:470:36:52

And then there were the dyers - Lavenham's famous

0:36:520:36:55

for something called Lavenham Blue -

0:36:550:36:57

with great big vats of boiling water with woad added to it.

0:36:570:37:01

And the effluent from the vats would come running down a drain in the middle of this street

0:37:010:37:06

and not just that stinking mess

0:37:060:37:08

but urine, the droppings of horses, offal from the butcher's shops,

0:37:080:37:14

and human excrement, which was simply taken out of the houses and dropped in the street.

0:37:140:37:18

The whole place was a stinking mess.

0:37:180:37:22

'As the town grew, a way had to be found to cope with pollution from the cloth industry.'

0:37:330:37:39

Ugh!

0:37:400:37:42

Lavenham was rich enough to find a solution.

0:37:440:37:47

In the 1520s, they simply covered over the drain, they built this beautiful brick culvert,

0:37:470:37:53

and down it came all the effluent, all the sewage.

0:37:530:37:58

They were the envy of towns and cities all over England.

0:37:580:38:03

Lavenham's houses belonged to a rising middle class

0:38:100:38:14

who could afford to build in style.

0:38:140:38:17

'Their homes and their meeting halls were comfortable and airy.

0:38:230:38:27

'They could buy glass for their windows,

0:38:270:38:31

'a luxury in medieval England.

0:38:310:38:33

'Later they began to decorate their homes with elaborate plaster work

0:38:390:38:43

'known as pargeting.

0:38:430:38:46

'A mixture of sand, lime and animal hair

0:39:010:39:05

'was applied to the building and shaped into intricate patterns.'

0:39:050:39:09

If I fill in this bit here...

0:39:090:39:12

Perfect.

0:39:120:39:13

-Not much of a pattern I'm making.

-That looks all right to me.

0:39:130:39:17

The pargeter had to work fast

0:39:190:39:22

to finish his design before the plaster dried hard.

0:39:220:39:25

It looks like making mud pies, doesn't it, though?

0:39:280:39:32

-Well, it is a similar sort of thing, only on walls.

-Do you enjoy doing it?

0:39:320:39:36

I love doing it. Every job's a challenge. You're thinking before,

0:39:360:39:41

"What am I going to do? How am I going to do it? What's the best kind of design?"

0:39:410:39:45

And, eh, this is lovely, I never get tired of doing it,

0:39:450:39:49

never ever get tired of doing it.

0:39:490:39:54

You could have some mischief with this, couldn't you?

0:39:510:39:54

Something like that wouldn't occur to me!

0:39:540:39:57

What's the most mischievous thing you've done?

0:39:570:40:00

Eh, I never HAVE done, actually, I don't think.

0:40:000:40:03

-Have you not?

-Oh, yes, I did. I done a job for some people

0:40:030:40:06

and right at the end they wanted a barn owl.

0:40:060:40:09

Then they told me they didn't have all my money ready, so I put a rat in its beak.

0:40:090:40:13

And it's still on their gable, a barn owl with a big rat hanging out of its beak.

0:40:130:40:17

CHURCH BELL RINGS

0:40:200:40:23

Travel through Suffolk and you'll see magnificent churches everywhere,

0:40:310:40:35

built by locals who grew rich on cloth.

0:40:350:40:39

It's sometimes called Silly Suffolk today,

0:40:410:40:44

but that's from the Anglo-Saxon "seely", meaning "blessed".

0:40:440:40:48

"What would you be, you wide East Anglian sky, without a church to recognise you by?"

0:40:570:41:03

The words of the Poet Laureate John Betjeman,

0:41:030:41:06

who encouraged people to go, not pub-crawling, but church-crawling.

0:41:060:41:10

The Holy Trinity in Blythburgh is a must for any church crawl.

0:41:210:41:26

The great glory of Blythburgh

0:41:330:41:36

are these pairs of angels

0:41:360:41:39

supporting the roof, all the way down the nave,

0:41:390:41:43

looking like eagles with their wings outstretched. Really exciting.

0:41:430:41:47

Every church has something special about it - round tower, thatch tower -

0:41:520:41:57

each has its own unique treasure.

0:41:570:41:59

'St Peter's in Wenhaston boasts a breathtaking survival from the Middle Ages.'

0:42:030:42:09

A strange thing happened in this church.

0:42:140:42:16

Towards the end of the 19th century, the Victorians, who loved restoring churches,

0:42:160:42:21

were busy putting in that new archway there.

0:42:210:42:23

And to do so they had to take out a great piece of wood, all covered in whitewash.

0:42:230:42:28

And the workmen simply took it outside and put it in the churchyard overnight.

0:42:280:42:33

That night there was a torrential downpour and in the morning the workmen came back...

0:42:330:42:40

and this is what they found.

0:42:400:42:43

Under the whitewash was this terrifying vision

0:42:470:42:51

of the Day of Judgment.

0:42:510:42:54

The souls of the dead are weighed by St Michael as the Devil looks on.

0:42:540:42:59

The good are received into heaven,

0:42:590:43:02

the sinners chained and cast into hell.

0:43:020:43:06

This vision of heaven and hell doesn't mean much to us now,

0:43:070:43:11

but in the Middle Ages people were really fearful about the Day of Judgment.

0:43:110:43:16

And it's what led to some of the greatest churches and cathedrals,

0:43:160:43:20

because people poured their money into these buildings, to maintain them, to endow them,

0:43:200:43:25

not for THIS world but because of their concern for what would happen in the next.

0:43:250:43:31

Fear of death preyed on the medieval mind.

0:43:340:43:39

And it's not hard to see why.

0:43:390:43:41

The skeletons in the graveyard of St Margaret's church in Norwich have been exhumed and analysed.

0:43:430:43:49

The bones tell a grim tale.

0:43:520:43:55

Over half the skeletons that were dug up

0:44:080:44:11

were found to be suffering either from illnesses

0:44:110:44:15

or from severe injuries.

0:44:150:44:17

Now, this one, for instance,

0:44:170:44:19

the bottom of the leg bone, that curve

0:44:190:44:23

is a symptom of rickets caused by malnutrition, a bad diet.

0:44:230:44:28

The forearm here...

0:44:280:44:30

..has been broken

0:44:310:44:33

and not properly set, but has somehow healed itself.

0:44:330:44:37

And then this skull...

0:44:410:44:43

..the skull should be smooth on the inside.

0:44:450:44:48

In fact, if you look at this one,

0:44:480:44:51

it's got little scars all around it, like lesions,

0:44:510:44:54

and that's a symptom of syphilis.

0:44:540:44:58

Two thirds of children died before the age of 12.

0:44:590:45:04

Even if you lived beyond 12, you couldn't expect a long life.

0:45:040:45:09

The average age of death was the early 30s.

0:45:090:45:13

One way to ward off illness and misfortune was to go on a pilgrimage.

0:45:310:45:36

Up in the north of Norfolk is the village of Little Walsingham.

0:45:420:45:46

Legend has it that the Virgin Mary appeared here in 1061.

0:45:540:45:59

Thank you. Thank you very much.

0:45:590:46:01

-Thank you so much.

-OK.

0:46:010:46:03

By the 13th century, Walsingham ranked alongside Rome and Jerusalem

0:46:030:46:08

as a place of pilgrimage. It became known as England's Nazareth.

0:46:080:46:13

Kings, nobles and the common people came on pilgrimage here

0:46:300:46:34

to affirm their faith and to pay homage to Our Lady of Walsingham.

0:46:340:46:40

Slipper Chapel is the last in a whole series of chapels that lead up to Walsingham.

0:46:540:46:59

Not Slipper as some people think because people took their shoes off to walk barefoot,

0:46:590:47:05

but from the word "slipe", meaning to slide, to move,

0:47:050:47:09

from the rest of England into the Holy Land of Walsingham.

0:47:090:47:14

It's the last stop before the pilgrims reach the shrine.

0:47:140:47:17

Today, pilgrims still come, as they did in medieval times, to walk in procession

0:47:250:47:31

the last leg of their journey along a road known as the Holy Mile.

0:47:310:47:35

A medieval writer said of Walsingham, "Many sick have been cured

0:47:400:47:45

"by Our Lady's power, the dead revived, the lame made whole,

0:47:450:47:49

"the blind have had their sight restored."

0:47:490:47:52

..Hail Mary, full of grace, the Lord is with thee...

0:47:520:47:55

..Holy Mary, Mother of God, pray for our sinners now and at the hour of our death. Amen.

0:47:550:48:00

The final stop on the pilgrims' journey, the ruins of Walsingham Priory.

0:48:000:48:05

It was built in 1150

0:48:140:48:17

to celebrate the miraculous appearance of the Virgin.

0:48:170:48:21

Today, all that remains is a magnificent turreted arch.

0:48:220:48:26

The pilgrimage to Little Walsingham is like nothing else in Britain.

0:48:310:48:36

It's an extraordinary reminder of a vanished religious era.

0:48:370:48:42

The Middle Ages are alive and well in Little Walsingham.

0:48:430:48:48

As the Middle Ages drew to a close,

0:48:590:49:01

England settled into a new period of peace and prosperity.

0:49:010:49:06

The days of looking nervously over your shoulder were passing,

0:49:060:49:10

and the fortified castle gave way to the country house.

0:49:100:49:14

Oxburgh Hall, near King's Lynn, was built towards the end of the 15th century.

0:49:210:49:27

It could be a castle - gatehouse, moat, battlements, all present and correct.

0:49:380:49:44

But this building isn't about defence, it's about display.

0:49:440:49:49

Those battlements aren't there to shield archers, they're just decoration.

0:49:530:49:58

The moat provides a nice reflection, not protection from attack.

0:50:010:50:05

And instead of blocks of defensive stone,

0:50:060:50:10

a new building material was used - brick.

0:50:100:50:13

In the early 15th century it was very expensive, used pretty well only by the king.

0:50:130:50:17

But by the time Oxburgh was built it had become readily available here.

0:50:170:50:21

And it allowed the owner not only to look grand

0:50:210:50:25

but also to be in the fashion.

0:50:250:50:28

The fashion was to use brick to do what you couldn't easily do with stone.

0:50:370:50:41

The gatehouse uses bands of brick on the front to make it look

0:50:440:50:48

as if it's eight storeys high, a medieval skyscraper, to impress visitors.

0:50:480:50:53

'But all isn't what it seems.

0:50:530:50:57

'Go through the archway into the courtyard on the other side, and in fact it's only three storeys high.'

0:50:570:51:03

Towards the end of the Middle Ages,

0:51:160:51:19

the rich were using the trappings of fortifications like this

0:51:190:51:23

to suggest power, prestige, perhaps a little touch of romance.

0:51:230:51:29

Buildings were harking back to the past

0:51:300:51:33

while at the same time looking forward to a new age.

0:51:330:51:38

For the final part of my journey I'm travelling back across the fens of East Anglia

0:51:550:52:02

to a place where the medieval age reached its peak of sophistication -

0:52:020:52:06

the University of Cambridge.

0:52:060:52:09

The Middle Ages began with buildings that grew out of conquest and oppression.

0:52:180:52:23

Now came a nobler aim, the pursuit of knowledge and learning.

0:52:230:52:29

The building of Cambridge University began in the 13th century.

0:52:310:52:36

Its growth caused fury among the townsfolk

0:52:360:52:39

because it threatened their prosperity as a thriving riverside port.

0:52:390:52:45

But the building of King's College sealed the fate of the town.

0:52:460:52:50

When Henry VI decided to build King's College, he faced every developer's nightmare.

0:52:560:53:01

The land from here down to the river was full of houses, of shops,

0:53:010:53:05

lanes going down to the wharves.

0:53:050:53:08

There was a church, there were two pubs.

0:53:080:53:10

But being the monarch, of course, he simply razed the lot to the ground,

0:53:100:53:14

and in doing so he cut off the town from the river.

0:53:140:53:19

It was the beginning of the university's takeover of Cambridge.

0:53:190:53:23

Narrow streets and dank lanes gave way to the most magnificent building

0:53:290:53:34

in the university - King's College Chapel.

0:53:340:53:37

Henry VI wanted to astonish people by building a chapel

0:53:490:53:53

bigger than anything they'd ever seen before.

0:53:530:53:56

It was 70 years and six monarchs before it was completed,

0:53:560:54:01

but when it was, it stood as the most magnificent memorial to medieval man.

0:54:010:54:07

The delicacy and elegance of the stonework

0:54:340:54:37

was unlike anything seen before.

0:54:370:54:40

We've travelled a long way from the Normans with their solid, powerful, rather severe buildings

0:54:470:54:53

to this end of the Middle Ages,

0:54:530:54:56

with this wonderful lightness and exuberance.

0:54:560:54:59

The final flowering of medieval architecture.

0:54:590:55:03

The building is a miraculous feat of engineering.

0:55:100:55:14

From slender columns at the side,

0:55:250:55:27

stone ribs soar heavenwards

0:55:270:55:31

to the crowning glory, the fan vaulted ceiling.

0:55:310:55:34

Its sheer scale is breathtaking.

0:55:360:55:39

It's the largest fan vault in the world.

0:55:390:55:43

This is quite astonishing. I'm standing under the great roof

0:56:000:56:05

of the chapel, these are the wooden beans that support it.

0:56:050:56:08

But what I'm standing ON is the top of the ceiling,

0:56:080:56:11

the fan vaulted ceiling.

0:56:110:56:13

And the stone here is only 12 centimetres thick,

0:56:130:56:18

almost like an eggshell supporting nearly 2,000 tons of stone.

0:56:180:56:24

You almost feel you could fall through.

0:56:250:56:27

When they built this ceiling, they cut holes through it

0:56:460:56:50

so that they could communicate with the stonemason on the other side.

0:56:500:56:54

And the holes have been left here. If you look through,

0:56:540:56:56

you can see right down to the choir stalls,

0:56:560:57:01

about 100ft below me. Very tempting, if you were a schoolboy,

0:57:010:57:07

to throw little stink bombs down in the middle of evensong.

0:57:070:57:12

Staring at this ceiling sends me into a kind of trance-like state...

0:57:310:57:36

..almost like a dream...

0:57:370:57:40

..listening to fine music.

0:57:410:57:44

It's SO beautiful.

0:57:460:57:48

It's just what the builders wanted -

0:57:510:57:55

to make it look like a dream

0:57:550:57:58

so you didn't believe it was real.

0:57:580:58:01

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