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Episode 1

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I'm Peter Owen Jones, I'm a vicar from the Church of England

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and I've taken a year off from my parishes to see for myself

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the richness of faith across six continents.

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I'm going to witness rituals never seen before, making people's journeys from birth to death.

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I'm going to encounter strange and beautiful faiths,

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expressing people's deepest hopes and fears.

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How can you say such things?

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My biggest hope is to understand humanity's timeless fascination with the divine.

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Am I dreaming?

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Well, it's Sunday morning and as ever I'm going to church,

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but this isn't just any church,

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this is the biggest church in the world.

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I'm a vicar in the Church of England - that makes me a Protestant.

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But Seoul is the centre of a very different - and growing - kind of Protestantism.

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CHEERFUL HYMN MUSIC

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Pentecostalism is the fastest-growing brand

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of Christianity in the world.

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The hymns may be in Korean,

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but the tunes are very recognisable as those born out of evangelical revivals.

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And that's because Pentecostalism was imported from America.

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It was originally an out-growth of American methodism.

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Pentecostalism expects and demands human beings to have an intense personal encounter with God.

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Central to it is a belief in the active gifts of the Holy Spirit -

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these are the gifts of prophecy, of healing and of speaking in tongues.

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These are the very same gifts that the disciples of Jesus experienced at the Feast of Pentecost,

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when the Bible says the Holy Spirit descended upon the 12 Apostles.

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It was a life-changing experience and they felt a power to spread the message of Jesus across the world.

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And the same is happening here, at this Pentecostal church.

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After the service, I discover just how fundamental they believe their

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prayers are to the survival of the country against the communist north.

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Intrigued, I take a Church bus

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along the border with North Korea to Prayer Mountain,

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a Christian bunker on the ideological front line.

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HE SPEAKS KOREAN

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The praying grottoes?

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I know these look like changing rooms from the local swimming baths,

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but they are in fact, all of them, prayer cubicles.

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And they're all full of people saying their prayers.

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Some people are going to stay in here for between 48 hours and

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a week, and they wont eat, they'll maybe a little water,

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but perhaps that's all. Erm...

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The inspiration for the prayer cubicles

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comes from the Bible - where people like Abraham, Moses and Jesus

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all prayed in the wilderness to wait on God and to seek his will.

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They also have a central auditorium where Christians can pray collectively.

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The whole Prayer Mountain movement sprang from the practice of the early Korean Christians,

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persecuted by the home religions and philosophies of Buddhism, Shinto, and Confucianism.

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In desperation, Christians who could not practise their faith openly

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would wake up as early as four in the morning

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to ascend the nearby mountains where they could freely pray, until the first ray of sun rise.

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Since the 1950s, it's the threat of communist North Korea,

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which has inspired South Korean Christians to continue to make the trip to Prayer Mountain.

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Brazil is home to the world's largest Catholic population.

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In total, 140 million souls.

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But things are changing. For over four centuries,

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the Catholic Church has been the major Christian denomination in Brazil.

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Recently, there has been a surge in growth of Protestant churches.

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I'm about to meet one - Pastor Marcus, he's from the Church of the Assemblies of God, here in Brazil.

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It's the largest Pentecostal church in the country.

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And the people he's just about to minister to are not the type of men

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that are going to make it to church on Sunday.

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Let's go.

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APPLAUSE

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SHE SINGS

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Pentecostals believe that God, acting through his son Jesus

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and the Holy spirit, plays an active role in human life.

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But the devil is also ever present.

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Only through constant vigilance and in some cases, exorcism, is he kept at bay.

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When you are placing your hands on the men's faces, what is taking place there?

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Pentecostalism promises people who convert a total break with the past.

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They believe that they can transform bad people into good people by casting out their demons.

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Pastor Marcus has built up a formidable reputation in Rio's prisons.

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There's a line, I think in the New Testament, that says, "When I was sick, you comforted me.

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"When I was in prison, you visited me."

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I've been in a few prisons in my time, but that one is a black hole from hell.

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SHE SINGS

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APPLAUSE

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I'm in Bolivia to visit the Basilica of Our Lady of Copacabana.

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Like many Catholic churches in South America, the basilica was built over a pre-existing sacred space.

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Native Bolivians worshipped their own gods here

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long before the arrival of Christianity from Europe.

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These days, it provides a unique service, which draws in people from miles around.

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Every Sunday, a priest performs automobile blessings directly outside the cathedral.

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There's an incredible mixture of smells out here.

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Basically, it's an aroma of champagne and diesel.

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And this isn't really the sort of thing one expects to see outside

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your parish church at 10.30 on Sunday morning.

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I'm curious to know why people have travelled here to have their cars blessed.

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That's completely thrown me.

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I've never asked God for a car.

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It may seem unusual to us to ask a priest to bless a car, but here in Bolivia, it is what the people want.

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So the Church offers the service.

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Right, well, as Bolivia has some of the world's

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most dangerous roads, it makes sense to get our vehicle blessed.

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Marvellous.

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Romero!

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Look what I have bought!

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Do you feel that after you've blessed this car, father, that things will go better for us?

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I like this pragmatic side of Catholicism and the way

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it has allowed these colourful, home-grown traditions, to thrive.

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And it's provided me with a great excuse to make some noise and crack open the bubbly!

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Johannesburg suffers from one of the worst crime rates in the world.

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In the inner-city district of Hillbrow, dozens of new Christian churches

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escape up here to find respite on a patch of wasteland above the city.

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Here we are. Here we are.

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Every Friday evening up here on this mound, the 12th Apostolic Church meet.

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And they meet for a prayer vigil.

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No-one's turned up yet. I was assured they'd all be here at three, and it's about half past five now.

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The 12th Apostolic Church was founded in South Africa in the 1940s.

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They broke away from the Protestant mainstream to create their own

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African Church, with its own African reading of the Bible.

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-Jesus is my number one, Jesus. ALL:

-He is my number one.

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-Jesus... ALL:

-He is my number one...

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As night falls, the atmosphere becomes more and more spiritually charged.

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THE SPEAK IN TONGUES

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Pentecostal Christians believe in a phenomenon called speaking in tongues.

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The idea comes from writing in the Bible but says that after Jesus was crucified, the Holy spirit

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came into his followers and they began speaking in other languages, or tongues.

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The time when this happened became known as Pentecost.

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In Africa, where spirits are very real presences to many people, I'm not surprised to find

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that this new Christian church puts the Holy spirit centre-stage.

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And even relies on it for protection.

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What's it like living in Hillbrow.

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It is a very rough place, to be frank.

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There's a lot of criminality and stuff like that.

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But we're not living in fear because the spirit is the armour of God, protecting us.

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-Any time, to us, we don't mind.

-Is the church growing?

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Very big, yes.

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People come to this church because

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its spiritual milk.

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There is the word and there is the healing.

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There is power.

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There is light.

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So this church is based on the power and presence of the Holy Spirit?

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-Yes.

-OK.

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Do you believe in the Holy Spirit?

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-Yes.

-You don't believe it.

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I do believe. I believe in the Holy Spirit.

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Then when I pray, pray for each and every one of you.

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Jehovah! In the name of Jesus.

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THEY SPEAK IN TONGUES

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In the name of Jesus Christ.

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It's loud, it's noisy, you're being shaken.

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Someone's banging you on the back and tapping the back of your head,

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whispering in your ear and...

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everything's happening at once.

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It's disorientating.

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But on the other hand,

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if you are bold enough to let go,

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you're enveloped by...

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..the Holy Spirit.

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The 12th Apostolic Church believe in the power, the reality, the presence - now - of the Holy Spirit.

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Not as some academic concept, not as some theological notion, but as a reality of God.

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So it's a very energetic, charismatic form of Christianity.

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I'm in Mexico City for what is a huge Catholic gathering

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in honour of Mexico's national saint, the Virgin of Guadalupe.

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It's estimated that there'll be over 5 million pilgrims here today.

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It's one of the biggest gatherings of people in the Americas.

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Pilgrimages like this one are an important feature of many religions.

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These Christians see it as their religious duty to make the journey.

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Pilgrimage sites often grow up around where miraculous events are believed to have occurred.

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Alfonso, why are these people coming in on their knees?

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When you have a problem, you ask to the Virgin for help.

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If she makes you the miracle, so you have to pay for it.

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And the most unusual form is that you have to go by your knees, or walking long distances.

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Some people have crawled for miles in honour of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

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I mean, you are tired, but you are not in pain because your faith is making you get to the place.

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Religion really matters here.

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There are people crying, carrying statues and icons which they've brought from their houses.

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This is testament to a society where Catholicism is immensely

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deep-rooted within the very soul of this country.

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When the Spanish conquered the Americans in the 16th century,

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they converted its people to Christianity.

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The Catholic Church demanded obedience to the Pope in Europe and faith in Jesus as the Son of God

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and Mary as the the viriginal Mother of God.

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Initially, the native Aztecs were resistant to conversion.

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But a vision of the Virgin to an indigenous man ten years after the Spanish conquest changed everything.

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One guy called Juan Diego was walking by the mountains and

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in one moment, suddenly appeared the Virgin of Guadalupe in front of him.

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She's brown-skinned, in front of an indigenous guy,

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so that's like the greatest moment in the religious history of Mexico.

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The apparition of a brown-skinned Virgin to an native Indian kick-started the mass conversion

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of the indigenous population and in an extraordinary turn

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of events, began to unite Indians and mixed blood mestizos under the banner of Catholicism.

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I joined the crowds packing into the basilica to pay their respects to the Virgin.

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This is like being on the M25 in rush hour!

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Stop-start, stop-start, stop-start.

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HE SINGS

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I never expected an escalator to take me underneath the Virgin of Guadalupe.

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It is extraordinary how a miraculous vision seen by one man

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can alter the religious history of an entire country.

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Lithuania used to have 200,000 Jews.

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They were part of the nine million strong Jewish population of Europe -

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after the Christians, the most important religious group in the Continent.

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The Nazis killed six million across Europe,

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but in Lithuania, 91% were killed,

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both by the German occupiers and the local people, during the Second World War.

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Amongst the hundreds of abandoned synagogues

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is this unusual wooden one.

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I think she's sitting outside her house...

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The key is held by Agrippina, an 82-year-old Orthodox Christian

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who witnessed what happened to the Jews in her village.

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Were there people from this village that took part in the killing?

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Some of the families that did this, are they still here?

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There are still Jews living in Lithuania.

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But I'm going to have to go to the capital, Vilnius, to find them.

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Before the Second World War there were about 100 Jewish synagogues,

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a thriving Jewish community, here in this town.

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But the Second World War decimated that population

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and many of the traditions that went with them.

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There's now only one -

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one - that remains.

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I'm joining the congregation as they prepare for their Friday worship.

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HE CHANTS

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THEY CHANT

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This service is the start of Shabbat, which commemorates the day

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that God rested after creating the Earth.

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Later you will come to my home, and tonight we will have Shabbat...

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-Tonight?

-Yes.

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-I'll take you up. I'll come tonight.

-Yeah, great.

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-Thank you for your invitation.

-Bye-bye.

-See you.

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My visit to Vilnius has brought to mind an issue

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that has been troubling me for some time -

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some of the words of the founder of my Protestant faith, Martin Luther.

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He had some fine things to say about

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our understanding of our relationship with God.

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But he also had some very dark things that he said,

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especially about the Jewish race, the Jewish people.

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I was reading this morning, and he said that the Jews were

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"a base, whoring people, that is,

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"no people of God,

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"and their boast of lineage

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"and circumcision and law

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"must be accounted as filth."

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He goes on to say that they should either be set to forced labour,

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or

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banished, exiled, forever.

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Not a very pretty picture, that one.

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Neither graceful nor holy,

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nor loving.

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Nor forgiving.

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And look, you know, if we're going to make this journey,

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we have to confront things like that.

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We can't just pretend they didn't exist,

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and that Christianity is all about Songs Of Praise and lisping vicars

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and some of the lovely things that it has to offer -

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you know, there are darknesses in its closet.

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I'm going to talk about it tonight.

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And I hope it's all right to talk about it at the Shabbat meal.

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The most painful part of all of this for me

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is that these words of Luther were used by the Christian Nazis

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to justify the Jewish Holocaust.

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Hello, Peter. My lovely neighbour.

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Hello, lovely neighbour. ..Hello. How are you?

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-Very good. Please come in.

-Thank you.

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This is my grandfather.

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Shabbat shalom.

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-Shabbat shalom.

-Shabbat shalom.

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Before the family can eat, we must ritually wash our hands -

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in silence.

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Mm-mm. Mmm...

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Mmm...mmm...mmm...

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Mm-mm.

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-Mm-mm.

-Mmm.

-Mm-mm.

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-Amen.

-Mmm...!

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So the head of the family is giving to everybody the piece of challah,

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and nobody's allowed to speak till they take the piece of challah.

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You can take it, and the meal normally starts.

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The founder of the Protestant perspective...

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-Yes?

-..said some quite terrible things

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about members of the Jewish faith.

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As a Protestant Christian, I feel guilty about that.

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When can we move on?

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I believe when somebody understands the guilt

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for his own previous generations -

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as soon as this happens, this is the beginning of a new era.

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For example, the Jewish people will never blame somebody,

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but as soon as somebody starts thinking,

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"I feel very bad for what my great-great-grandparents did" -

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as soon as we come to that point, this is the beginning of new relationship.

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OK. We'll shake.

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-I hope you...

-Shalom, shalom, shalom.

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So, now I know that in Britain I have got one more friend.

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I need to write your address and when we come, we continue...

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And we can just continue where we left off.

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Yes, yes, yes, yes.

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Wow!

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There we go, then.

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Umayyad Mosque?

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We're off to the Umayyad Mosque,

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which is one of the most important mosques in the world.

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It's in the old city of Damascus.

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I'm fascinated by that mosque.

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-Is it your first time to see the mosque?

-Yes, it is.

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Is it your first time that you see a mosque?

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No, I've seen lots of mosques but none of them have seemed quite so ancient.

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I want to learn more about what happens inside a mosque.

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What are the main countries where the visitors come from?

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All over the world.

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Islam is the second largest religion in the world,

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with at least a billion followers.

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Literally, Islam means "submission to the will of God".

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After it was founded in 632 in what is now Saudi Arabia,

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it spread rapidly.

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When the Prophet Muhammad died, many of his followers

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felt that a new leader should come from the Prophet's family.

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This group became the Shi'a Muslims.

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Today, Shi'a Muslims do not recognise the authority

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of elected Muslim leaders.

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Instead, they follow the teaching of a line of imams

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who they believe are elected by God.

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Sunni Muslims believe that after the Prophet's death,

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a new leader should be elected by his followers.

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Today, they make up over 85% of Muslims.

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Having followed different leaders for hundreds of years,

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there are differences between how the two groups practise their faith.

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But they both share the same basic Islamic beliefs.

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What is the most important point of Islam, for you?

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It's to believe in God, in angels, in prophets,

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in books and destiny - the good and bad, from God.

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That's it. Once you believe in these five, you are a good Muslim.

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But that makes ME a good Muslim.

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Yeah - if you believe in God and the angels

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and the books and the prophets,

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including Prophet Muhammad.

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-Once you try to learn, you will come to a point that you accept it.

-Mmm.

0:32:240:32:30

Where is the focus of prayer?

0:32:310:32:34

Any place you pray in is the correct place,

0:32:340:32:38

but your prayer should be made facing direction of Mecca.

0:32:380:32:44

-East.

-No, which is south from Damascus.

0:32:440:32:47

It's east from UK, west from India,

0:32:470:32:51

-south from here and north from Australia.

-It is.

0:32:510:32:55

So, Mecca is the centre of the world.

0:32:550:32:59

Why, when a Muslim man prays -

0:32:590:33:03

he goes down on his knees, he leans his face forward,

0:33:030:33:07

he puts his hands on the ground then his forehead on the ground?

0:33:070:33:10

Every Muslim, making the prayer,

0:33:100:33:12

should have seven bones touching the floor.

0:33:120:33:18

The forehead, two hands,

0:33:180:33:21

two knees, two feet.

0:33:210:33:24

-OK.

-And this is a teaching by the Prophet Muhammad, who said,

0:33:240:33:30

"Pray as you saw me praying."

0:33:300:33:33

You start the prayer like this,

0:33:330:33:36

as if you are just throwing everything else of your worries

0:33:360:33:40

and interests of your world behind you,

0:33:400:33:45

and say, "God is greater".

0:33:450:33:48

Allahu Akbar.

0:33:480:33:49

-Allahu Akbar.

-And then...

0:33:490:33:51

Allahu Akbar. God is greater...

0:33:510:33:54

Then you go down.

0:33:540:33:56

Down here, you have to have your hands,

0:33:560:34:01

your feet, and then your nose and forehead touching the ground.

0:34:010:34:07

Allahu Akbar.

0:34:080:34:10

MUEZZIN CHANTS

0:34:100:34:12

Coming from the West,

0:34:410:34:42

I had always thought of Ethiopia as a place of great hardship.

0:34:420:34:47

I want to find out how the world's biggest religions

0:34:470:34:50

provide for their people

0:34:500:34:52

in the face of repeated droughts and subsequent famines.

0:34:520:34:56

We set off to the northern province of Tigray.

0:34:580:35:02

Tigray was the sight of the famine in the early 1980s

0:35:050:35:08

that shaped my entire impression of Ethiopia.

0:35:080:35:11

I am nervous of what I will find.

0:35:130:35:15

I am certainly not prepared for a place of such spectacular beauty.

0:35:150:35:20

The North Ethiopian Highlands are just so, so beautiful.

0:35:220:35:27

So beautiful.

0:35:270:35:28

In the valley of Negash,

0:35:320:35:33

we stop at the first Muslim settlement

0:35:330:35:36

founded in sub-Saharan Africa.

0:35:360:35:39

1,300 years ago, the Prophet Muhammad's daughter

0:35:400:35:44

and 80 of his followers fled here from persecution in Mecca.

0:35:440:35:48

There have been Muslims here ever since.

0:35:480:35:51

I join the community elders here for a special prayer meeting

0:35:530:35:57

which takes place in a house beside the mosque.

0:35:570:36:00

CHANTING

0:36:030:36:05

The ceremony starts with the roasting of coffee beans.

0:36:090:36:13

Has there ever been a time when your prayers have not been answered,

0:36:240:36:29

because there is so much suffering, there is a lot of pain in the world?

0:36:290:36:34

This teaching's a challenge to my belief in a benevolent God,

0:37:020:37:07

and to my expectations of Ethiopia.

0:37:070:37:09

I mean, to be honest I wasn't really looking forward to coming here.

0:37:100:37:14

I felt that I would be arriving in a land where

0:37:150:37:18

I would be constantly confronted with sorrow,

0:37:180:37:23

and with erm...

0:37:230:37:26

..with things that I would find upsetting.

0:37:260:37:31

And I wasn't really looking forward to being tested in that way.

0:37:330:37:38

But being here is... quite, quite different.

0:37:400:37:44

I'm in Bangkok in Thailand

0:38:040:38:06

where Buddhism is the official state religion.

0:38:060:38:09

But what I want to find out about is the essence of Buddhism itself.

0:38:110:38:16

It actually originated in India

0:38:160:38:18

and the Buddha was not a god but mortal, an Indian prince

0:38:180:38:23

who claimed the roots of human suffering were our selfish desires.

0:38:230:38:28

Desires are just illusions, he said.

0:38:280:38:31

They can never be satisfied because the world changes all the time.

0:38:310:38:37

Instead we should cease to strive and detach ourselves

0:38:370:38:41

from people and things.

0:38:410:38:43

That was the only true road to an everlasting state of bliss.

0:38:430:38:48

The way to enlightenment was through meditation, good deeds and,

0:38:500:38:54

as in most religions, the adherence to a long list of dos and don'ts.

0:38:540:38:59

To refrain from taking life,

0:39:010:39:03

to refrain from taking that which is not given,

0:39:030:39:06

to refrain from sensual misconduct, to refrain from lying,

0:39:060:39:10

to refrain from intoxicants which lead to loss of mindfulness.

0:39:100:39:14

Then there are three additional precepts

0:39:140:39:16

which are to refrain from eating at the wrong time,

0:39:160:39:19

one should only eat between sunrise and noon,

0:39:190:39:23

to refrain from dancing,

0:39:230:39:25

using jewellery and going to shows.

0:39:250:39:28

The last one is to refrain from using a high, luxurious bed.

0:39:280:39:35

It's not that high, really, is it?

0:39:380:39:40

I'll turn over now.

0:39:430:39:44

Next morning I visit one of Bangkok's biggest temples

0:40:050:40:08

to see Buddhism in practice.

0:40:080:40:10

Today is Ordination Day, the culmination

0:40:140:40:17

of a three to six month period for boys and young men

0:40:170:40:20

spent learning how to control their desires.

0:40:200:40:24

I'm struck by how much daily life is integrated here.

0:40:300:40:34

In my own tradition, this would mean life behind closed doors.

0:40:340:40:39

In Thailand, it's different.

0:40:390:40:41

It seems the monks can come and go at will.

0:40:410:40:44

In the complex of lanes behind the temple, I found a senior monk

0:40:510:40:55

who could answer some of my questions.

0:40:550:40:58

What I find very interesting is that a young man can become a monk

0:40:580:41:02

for three months and then he can leave and have a family

0:41:020:41:06

and then maybe later in life he can pick that up again.

0:41:060:41:10

-Yes.

-It seems very fluid.

0:41:100:41:12

Of course, Buddhism is a part of community.

0:41:120:41:15

In Thailand, we believe that if you are not ordained,

0:41:150:41:18

a gentleman is not ordained, you are still considered as

0:41:180:41:22

uncooked, you are still considered as raw.

0:41:220:41:25

In that sense, your mind or your spirituality is not well trained.

0:41:250:41:32

That's why in Thailand they believe that if you go and ask

0:41:320:41:35

for someone's hand for marriage, they will ask you first criteria is

0:41:350:41:40

are you ordained? Have you ordained?

0:41:400:41:42

Only then they will consider to give your daughter because if you

0:41:420:41:46

are not ordained yet, you don't know how to take care of the daughter yet.

0:41:460:41:50

In that sense, the monastery plays a great role

0:41:500:41:53

in terms of giving spiritual training for them.

0:41:530:41:58

Make them ready to face society.

0:41:580:42:00

The climax of the ordination comes

0:42:040:42:07

when the abbot leads the monks three times around the temple.

0:42:070:42:12

For me, the sight of the thousands of city families following them

0:42:160:42:19

in quiet devotion is a sign of the faith in the Buddhist message.

0:42:190:42:26

The Buddhist philosophy is that suffering comes from desire,

0:42:260:42:30

from our continual craving for power, money, sex...

0:42:300:42:38

and a thousand other worms that infest our hearts and our souls.

0:42:380:42:44

It is that continual state of craving

0:42:440:42:48

that the Buddhists seek to rid themselves of.

0:42:480:42:51

We misunderstand in the West.

0:42:540:42:56

We see Buddhism as a strange, rather ephemeral, slightly flowery thing

0:42:560:43:01

that someone called Samantha has taken to and lives in Totnes.

0:43:010:43:06

In the East, this is the main religion.

0:43:060:43:11

Between 350 and 400 million people are Buddhists.

0:43:110:43:15

I can't help but see an unexpected connection with Shinto here.

0:43:200:43:24

Just as Shinto wards off the chaos of nature,

0:43:240:43:28

so Buddhism teaches how to order the chaos within our hearts.

0:43:280:43:33

The Daigo temple of Shingon Buddhism was built on a sacred spring

0:43:490:43:53

in the ninth century and I've been allowed to peek

0:43:530:43:56

into the austere daily lives of the novice monks who train there.

0:43:560:44:01

I immediately noticed that these monks are finding

0:44:080:44:12

a distinctive way to avert chaos in the mind and in the heart.

0:44:120:44:16

Here is the theology of order in operation.

0:44:250:44:30

Everything is timed.

0:44:320:44:35

Everything is worked out to the very last detail.

0:44:350:44:41

I think after a while of living here you would

0:44:430:44:46

fall into the pattern and it would become immensely reassuring.

0:44:460:44:51

At the heart of Buddhism

0:45:020:45:04

there is a way to inner tranquillity and ultimately nirvana.

0:45:040:45:09

There is no God, only a path to enlightenment.

0:45:090:45:13

And for the monks here, it's an austere one.

0:45:130:45:15

DRUM RHYTHMS AND CHANTING

0:45:470:45:50

Right in the heart of Bangkok,

0:46:470:46:49

there's an open-air shrine to a faith where office workers, students

0:46:490:46:53

and tourists can just pop in

0:46:530:46:56

at any time of the day to pay their respects and make a prayer.

0:46:560:47:00

You can offer flowers or release some birds,

0:47:000:47:03

or if you're really flush, commission a dance.

0:47:030:47:07

This shrine is in Thailand,

0:47:110:47:13

which is a Buddhist country, but it is not a Buddhist shrine.

0:47:130:47:17

It is a Hindu shrine.

0:47:170:47:20

What I love about this shrine is that here, on one of the busiest intersections in the city,

0:47:210:47:28

is one of the busiest shrines in the city.

0:47:280:47:30

I decided to find out what religion the people coming here to pray belonged to.

0:47:310:47:37

-Are you Hindu or Buddhist?

-Buddhist.

0:47:370:47:41

But that's a Hindu god.

0:47:410:47:44

I'm off to Calcutta in India

0:48:140:48:16

to find out more about the role of the gods in the Hindu religion.

0:48:160:48:21

Calcutta is one of India's greatest cities and three-quarters of its 15 million inhabitants are Hindu.

0:48:210:48:30

I'm here at the high point of the religious calendar,

0:48:350:48:38

when Calcutta's citizens, especially the women,

0:48:380:48:41

are in full celebration mode.

0:48:410:48:43

They're celebrating a nine-day act of reverence, or puja,

0:48:430:48:47

to the goddess Durga.

0:48:470:48:49

But while the women dance, on the banks of the city's river,

0:48:490:48:53

the sacred Ganges, there are men whose sole occupation

0:48:530:48:57

is to gather a holy ingredient for the festival.

0:48:570:49:01

It is used to construct literally thousands of gods and goddesses.

0:49:050:49:12

Over the nine days of the festival,

0:49:200:49:22

the clay deities are brought to life in street shrines known as pandal,

0:49:220:49:27

where the people come to have their wishes blessed by the now living gods.

0:49:270:49:33

There are these makeshift shrines on every single street corner.

0:49:330:49:37

All the people here are going around from shrine to shrine and

0:49:370:49:42

there's a great deal of competition between the shrines

0:49:420:49:45

to see which one is considered to be the best.

0:49:450:49:48

Isn't that great?

0:49:510:49:54

All of that is a recent construction.

0:49:540:49:56

That in fact is a shrine.

0:49:560:49:58

It's just such an incredible piece of design.

0:49:590:50:03

A ship in the middle of this backstreet of Calcutta.

0:50:030:50:07

But every shrine depicts the same scenario -

0:50:080:50:11

the victory of the goddess Durga

0:50:110:50:14

over the demon Mahisha.

0:50:140:50:15

Hindus believe in one god - all the gods and goddesses

0:50:180:50:22

are manifestations of this ultimate reality, Brahma.

0:50:220:50:27

But I want to find out if these shrines have a deeper meaning.

0:50:270:50:32

I've asked my old friend, Lakshmi Singh, to explain how

0:50:320:50:36

these shrines relate to the mysteries

0:50:360:50:39

of the vast number of inter-related Hindu gods and goddesses.

0:50:390:50:44

The central figure

0:50:440:50:46

of the whole of the puja

0:50:460:50:48

-is Durga.

-Is Durga.

0:50:480:50:50

In these nine days, she changes from one energy to the other energy,

0:50:500:50:55

from one form to the other form, like a woman,

0:50:550:50:58

from a little girl, the daughter, she becomes the sister,

0:50:580:51:03

she begins the wife, she becomes the mother, she becomes the grandmother.

0:51:030:51:08

So it's the depiction of my life, my story, in different forms and how to go about it.

0:51:080:51:15

But it's not about a woman.

0:51:150:51:18

It's about the energy, the electricity

0:51:180:51:21

which sustains everything here, in every form.

0:51:210:51:24

What do you think when you look at this, Lakshmi?

0:51:240:51:27

I must have control over myself.

0:51:270:51:30

I must get rid of the negative side of me.

0:51:300:51:35

To cut that green demon out.

0:51:350:51:38

Get it out of me.

0:51:380:51:40

A big fight is happening.

0:51:400:51:42

But this is always work in progress, surely?

0:51:420:51:45

All the time.

0:51:450:51:47

So then me...

0:51:470:51:49

I have to slay my demons

0:51:490:51:53

before I'm able to understand

0:51:530:51:56

wisdom, which is the goddess depicted on the left of the Durga.

0:51:560:52:01

On the ninth day, women all over the city say goodbye to their mother goddesses.

0:52:040:52:10

What's happening is that all the married women are gathering on stage

0:52:120:52:16

and putting vermilion on the goddess Durga.

0:52:160:52:18

They're also putting it on each other.

0:52:180:52:21

LOUD DRUMMING

0:52:210:52:25

But as the nine-day festival comes to an end,

0:52:360:52:39

the clay figures are taken on their final journey.

0:52:390:52:42

Throughout the night,

0:52:460:52:47

some 20,000 Durga goddesses from all over the city

0:52:470:52:51

are dragged through the streets

0:52:510:52:53

back to the Ganges from whence they came.

0:52:530:52:56

-Here we go.

-Yeah, go.

-Here we go.

0:52:560:52:59

I'm beginning to understand that for Hindus, this life represents only a

0:53:390:53:44

brief period of continuity in the eternal journey of the soul through countless deaths and rebirths.

0:53:440:53:51

Such devotion is driven by the hope of your soul ultimately

0:53:530:53:58

becoming one with Brahma, God, the ultimate reality.

0:53:580:54:03

Religion in the Far East of Asia is often expressed very differently to Europe.

0:54:190:54:24

It seems that people find many different ways to live out their relationship with God or the divine.

0:54:240:54:30

I'm in Shingu, in south-east Japan,

0:54:330:54:36

to wash the preparations for tonight's Oto Matsuri Fire Festival,

0:54:360:54:40

which is celebrated by local people

0:54:400:54:42

at the beginning of the new lunar year.

0:54:420:54:45

These men are in effect saying goodbye to the old year.

0:54:480:54:52

They're washing away the sins of the last one.

0:54:520:54:55

Do you feel cleansed?

0:54:550:54:57

-Are you ready for the fire?

-We forget about woman now.

0:55:020:55:06

You forget about women now?

0:55:060:55:07

Baby. Baby.

0:55:070:55:10

-Like a spirit baby.

-Where does impurity come from?

0:55:120:55:16

Why do ordinary middle-class citizens in this advanced country

0:55:340:55:39

subject themselves to such discomfort?

0:55:390:55:42

But I soon discover that for the men of Shingu,

0:55:420:55:45

this is only the beginning of a big day of rituals.

0:55:450:55:49

Unlike my faith, in Shinto, there is no single god to pray to.

0:55:500:55:55

I'm told there's thousands of them.

0:55:550:55:58

Today each participant prepares a torch on which he writes personal messages.

0:55:580:56:04

What does this torch wish for?

0:56:050:56:08

The cleansing of sins, the prayers to the spirits, it all sounds very elemental.

0:56:140:56:20

Clearly this is a very special day in the year.

0:56:200:56:24

And I'm hoping to find out why

0:56:240:56:26

at tonight's fire festival on a hill overlooking the town.

0:56:260:56:30

2,000 men will assemble at a shrine below a sacred rock.

0:56:300:56:35

It's known locally as a kamikura, a landing place for the gods,

0:56:350:56:39

and what they do there sounds like it could be a bit of an ordeal.

0:56:400:56:45

As night falls, there's a constant stream of arrivals at the rock.

0:56:480:56:53

It's like Friday night in Reading down there.

0:56:580:57:00

The ceremonial torch arrives and if they can stop

0:57:040:57:07

fighting over it, the lighting of everyone else's can begin.

0:57:070:57:11

And the purpose of the torches,

0:57:150:57:17

with their personal wishes, now becomes apparent.

0:57:170:57:21

Your torch is lit and then the smoke from that torch rises up to the gods

0:57:210:57:28

with your wishes for the new lunar year.

0:57:280:57:31

But that's only the prelude to the grand climax, when everyone is

0:57:340:57:39

physically penned into the sacred space behind the temple gate.

0:57:390:57:44

The men in charge of the gate have arrived.

0:57:440:57:46

They are now pushing everyone back behind the temple gate

0:57:460:57:50

and once everyone is inside, they'll shut the gate.

0:57:500:57:53

There's fighting breaking out again.

0:57:530:57:54

And then they will open the gate and there'll be this mad rush.

0:57:540:57:58

It's mayhem down there.

0:58:090:58:11

In fact, it's absolute chaos.

0:58:110:58:12

And that's a bit of a shock to see in such an ordered society as Japan.

0:58:120:58:17

That is a very ancient ritual and it's tied to a very primitive

0:58:200:58:24

belief, that in the beginning, there was chaos,

0:58:240:58:28

and that every year, the world has to be created anew.

0:58:280:58:33

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0:58:480:58:51

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0:58:510:58:54

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