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Episode 2

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I'm Peter Owen Jones. I'm a vicar in the Church of England

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and I've taken a year off from my parishes to see for myself

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the richness of faith across six continents.

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I'm going to witness rituals never seen before,

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making people's journeys from birth to death.

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I'm going to encounter strange and beautiful faiths,

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expressing people's deepest hopes and fears.

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How can you say such things?

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My biggest hope is to understand humanity's timeless fascination with the divine..

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Am I dreaming?

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This part of America is famous for Evangelists,

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whose preaching of traditional values keep the Bible Belt true to its name.

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And I've been invited to meet with the Revered Jared Sawyer

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and his family.

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They're not here.

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I've timed by arrival badly.

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It's the school run, a daily chore for this renowned preacher.

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-How are you?

-I'm doing good.

-I'm Pete.

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-Nice to meet you.

-You Jared?

-Yes, sir.

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'Jared believes that God has called him to preach.'

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-Wow, so you must be going to public school.

-Yes, sir.

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-When?

-Well, I started last Monday.

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How did you feel... that you had to preach?

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Well, I was sleeping one night and I had a dream.

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I had a dream, I don't know if it was true

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or if it were really a dream, but I was having a dream.

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And I felt that God was calling me to be a minister.

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I have my pencils and pens in here.

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I have all of my sermons labelled.

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-What's your favourite verse in the Bible?

-Philippians 4:13.

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That says, "I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me."

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-Do you feel that?

-Yes, sir. If I want to be a pastor of my own church,

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I can be a pastor of my own church, as long as I just believe it.

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GOSPEL SINGING

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Tonight Jared is guest preacher at a nearby Baptist church.

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GOSPEL SINGING

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Our topic for this evening is God's amazing grace.

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-SHOUTING AND CHEERING

-First, what is amazing?

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Well, man defines amazing as wonder.

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Well, we know that our God fits this description.

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-Uh-huh.

-Yeah.

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I don't know about you, but he makes me wonder all the time.

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We all need God's amazing Grace, in order for us to prosper.

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It is your aid.

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And unlike some aids that you can buy from the store,

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-you can't buy grace.

-CHEERING

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In these Baptist churches it's the style of preaching

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that draws in the crowds.

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And child preachers gain their authority from a Biblical custom

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where God's spirit inspires children to preach.

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..free us from sin.

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Therefore do people in this place today know that you need the Lord.

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You need God on a day-to-day basis to survive.

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# We've come this far by faith

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# Leading on the road. #

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But surely only adults can be priests, can be ministers?

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-No.

-No, no, God can use anybody.

-Amen.

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God is using him. God is speaking through him.

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He's just an instrument for the Lord.

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-You did it good.

-Thank you.

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Hidden away in this part of America

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is a unique off-shoot of Pentecostal Protestant Christianity.

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It takes a literal reading of the Bible to its very extreme.

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Jimmy? Hi.

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'Jimmy Morrow is the pastor of The Church of Jesus Name.

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'He's so proud of his tradition, he's even got the T-shirt.'

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Let's go and look at the snake hut.

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'Jimmy's been a serpent handler for 40 years.'

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Gordon Bennett.

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Wow! What snakes are they?

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How poisonous are they?

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Right.

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In the name of Jesus Christ.

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-I think I'll leave this bit to you.

-OK.

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'For Jimmy, the Bible is literally the Word of God

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'to be followed to the letter.

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'He bases his tradition on just two verses of Scripture.'

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You've put the verse from Mark up here on the door.

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Serpent handling services originated in Tennessee in 1908.

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Reading the Bible literally

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was part of a back to basics protest against moral decay.

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However the serpents have claimed 100 lives, so far.

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I was on life support one time for 28 hours,

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I refused medical treatment, and when I passed out they took me

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and I didn't want to go, but when you're passed out you don't know what's going on,

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they do what they want to do. I was on a respirator

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and I thought that would push me out of this,

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but I'm still here doing it.

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HE SINGS

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Pentecostal worship sometimes includes such shaking and shouting,

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the people around me believe that they are filled with the Holy Ghost.

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Unless Jimmy too feels anointed by the Spirit,

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the snakes will stay in the box.

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Picking up serpents is seen as a literal sign of God's power.

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Serpent handlers have no fear, they believe they are protected by God.

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THE SINGING CONTINUES

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Look, I'm English. We walk into church, we stand up,

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we sit down, we pray, but apart from the Eucharist,

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nothing really happens.

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We don't ever do anything which threatens us.

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'But maybe we should.'

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Could I feel called to hold one of these things?

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I don't think I'd do it in any other name.

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Just hold your hand out if you want him.

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Oh, Hallelujah.

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They'll bite you...

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Yeah. In Jesus name, Hallelujah.

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In the name of Jesus Christ.

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Thank you Lord.

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I felt complete peace.

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-I didn't feel fear.

-That's good.

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Praise the Lord.

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-HE SHOUTS IN PRAISE

-Yeah, come on!

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It's easy to look at this as an act of maniacs,

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but in fact, this about letting go of human power

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and allowing yourself to be held by your faith, your belief in God.

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So you come away from that experience not with a sense of power,

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but with a sense of being...humbled.

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I'm heading south to Italy.

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This is the heartland of the oldest and largest faith in Europe... Catholicism.

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It's a fact that the conversion of barbarian Europe to Christianity

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was largely led by Benedictine monks.

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So I've come to a monastery founded over 1,000 years ago.

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Hello. Luigi.

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-Father Luigi.

-Nice to meet you.

-Wonderful to meet you.

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Welcome in Sacro Speco of St Benedict.

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Men live here and devote their lives to serving God.

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They believe that by obedience and prayer, their existence is beneficial to humanity.

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Benedictine monks have to vow to stay in the monastery and give absolute obedience to the Abbot.

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The rule that they live by was written by St Benedict who lived in Italy 1,500 years ago.

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They live by a strict timetable, praying seven times a day, seven days a week,

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starting with vigils at five in the morning.

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The time given to God must not be wasted.

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Now the monks have gone into what they call the great silence,

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which means that there's no talking in the monastery whatsoever, so we've had to nip outside.

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And then, I think after breakfast they're allowed to speak again, but they don't speak a great deal.

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They tend to wander around in silence most of the time and when they say hello,

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it's a brief sort of... so that's it.

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BELL TOLLS

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The monks start praying at five every morning.

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Everything here has to run by the absolute minute.

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These are the SAS of monks -

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these are the hard guys, these are the hard cases.

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You know, when you're a little boy, if you want to be a monk,

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this is the monk you want to be cos these guys are the toughest monks...

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..all dressed in black in their hoods.

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This way of life is for someone who actually thrives on order.

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At the height of its powers in the 14th century,

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the Benedictine order had 37,000 monasteries across Europe.

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Today, there are just over 150 left.

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How many novices at the moment?

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One, only one, that's the Korean, Matean.

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The Korean.

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We have only one. We don't have... much vocation for the moment.

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-No young men, no young Italian men?

-Not for the moment.

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They don't want to enter in the monastery at the moment because they prefer to be in life,

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instead of to come inside and to be alone and quiet.

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But what happens in 20 years' time? Many of the brothers here are quite old.

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We have to pray that our Lord will send us vocation.

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We have to pray.

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I'm heading off to the land of the Sami -

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nomadic reindeer herders now converted to Christianity.

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It's their stories and traditional way of life

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that inspired much of the Santa Claus legend.

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BELLS RING

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Oh, will you look at that?

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Oh, look at that!

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Christmas card.

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This Protestant church, deep in what used to be the Sami homelands,

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-caters exclusively to the Sami.

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SINGING

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Today, they are all wearing traditional costumes

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because their priest is performing a baptism.

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This little boy has 14 godparents.

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This area has been Protestant for hundreds of years.

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The Sami were forced to convert in the 18th Century as Lutheranism spread north from Germany.

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Just over 40 years ago, an African American in Chicago

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received a divine revelation that he should lead his people out of America and back to the Holy Land.

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Many people believe that God speaks directly to them

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and that ancient text contained prophecies that they are destined to fulfil.

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Would you change your life because of something written thousands of years ago?

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-Morning, how are you? Welcome to the Village of Peace.

-Thank you very much. It's a delight to be here.

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The African Hebrew Israelites believe Africans are descended

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from the ancient tribe of the Israelites whose history is recorded in the Hebrew Bible.

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THEY SING A HYMN

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These African Americans say they're fulfilling a Biblical prophecy by returning to the Holy Land.

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Today, about 1,200 Hebrew Israelites live here

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and their commune interprets the Old Testament in some unique ways.

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They follow a strict vegan diet and grow their own organic food.

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Our worship is all encompassing.

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It's holistic.

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That relationship with the creator governs our agriculture.

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Their spiritual connection with the Holy Land is based on the book of Genesis

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that says God promised this land to their forefather Abraham.

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Biblically we are tied to the land.

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What influenced most of us to leave America and the cities there

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was a calling to come back to what we considered our ancestral homeland.

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I'm very happy doing this, I could do it all day.

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I think the way in which people are living here is seeing

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the land in this way and to see working on it as an act of worship.

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I can't think of anything better.

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Well, here's breakfast.

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Ahmadiel has taken the idea of healthy living much further than I could have ever imagined.

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We believe in eternal life.

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We believe it is attainable objective and should we return back

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to the proper cycles we can indeed, in these bodies,

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continually renew ourselves, and we will put an end to the idea of death.

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The Bible talks about death being the final victory, the victory over death.

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We are living in that day.

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Voila!

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That's something to chew on, right?

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That's quite big, that one.

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As his children set off to school, Ahmadiel wants me to see for myself

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the importance of faith in his community.

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He introduces me to the gym teacher.

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Those look pretty hideous.

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Don't do this unless you got strong faith.

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No.

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Right.

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I don't really want to do this.

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Just there.

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That's it.

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Can you stand up straight?

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-Then you've got to relax.

-Oh, man.

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BBC...be basically calm!

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THEY LAUGH

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That's the consciousness that is moving throughout this anatomy, this temple...

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In the evening I'm invited to attend a seminar in the village hall.

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Hallelujah!

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Studying the Old Testament is an important part of the African Hebrew Israelites' way of life,

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but their Bible study group is a bit funkier than the ones I'm used to.

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UP-TEMPO MUSIC PLAYS

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# Hallelujah!

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# Hallelujah!

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# Hallelujah!

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The African Hebrew Israelites have created an inspiring model

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for how to connect with God and how to live a good life.

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But their return to the Promised Land is based on a literal reading of the stories of the Hebrew Bible.

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The problem with this way of reading Biblical history

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is that Jews, Christians and Muslims have all created their own competing claims to this land.

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I set off to Palestine to visit a tribe who've taken a religious belief

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in the unity of their tribe to such extreme lengths it has pushed them to the edge of extinction.

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They're called the Samaritans and they've been living

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on the West Bank of the Jordan River for over 3,000 years.

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The Samaritans' unbending adherence to the rituals of the Old Testament

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makes them a living embodiment of the ancient practice of Judaism.

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I'm here to witness the Samaritan Passover.

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The Samaritans are Palestinian but they are Jewish.

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There are only 712 Samaritans left.

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The name Samaritan means "keeper of the law".

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They claim to uphold the true faith of the ancient Israelites.

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Tonight, almost all of them are here on Mount Gerizim.

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This is where the Samaritans believe Abraham came to sacrifice his son, Isaac.

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The Samaritans believe in Mount Gerizim, the place where you are right now.

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-This is a holy place for the Samaritans?

-Yeah, this is a holy place.

-Only 712?

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-712, that is the number?

-Yeah, that's what I was told.

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-It is the exact number?

-Unless someone's had a baby.

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-Or somebody died.

-Or somebody died.

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-What's going to happen this evening?

-There is going to be the sacrifice of Passover.

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-Something the Samaritans do for 3,000 and more years.

-How many sheep?

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-Between 40 and 50 sheep.

-Enough to feed a lot of people. It's bloody. It's brutal.

-Yeah.

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-Lots of blood?

-Yeah. What can you do?

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We're just waiting for sunset, which is getting pretty close.

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Vegetarians turn away now.

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Do you think there is still a place for such ancient rituals in our modern world?

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This is a rite, practised by a people who trace their origins to the creation of man himself.

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I'm 162 generations from Adam to me.

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How I know, because I live here.

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The Samaritans, this is the origin of the tribes of Israel.

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When the Israel come here 3,646 years,

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until now the Samaritans have not left the Holy Land. We live here.

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The idea of sacrifice is deeply ingrained within monotheism,

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within the traditions of monotheism, starting with Abraham's near murder of his own son Isaac.

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From there, sacrifice has been deeply rooted

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within the monotheistic faith, leading up to and perhaps evolving into the crucifixion of Christ.

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I wonder whether the reason there are so few Samaritans left in the world

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is that they have not adapted their beliefs and practices to reflect the modern world.

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And I can't help wondering how much longer they can survive with their attachment

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to their own genetic identity and to this piece of land.

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Islam is a religion with Semitic roots and a global, 21st Century identity.

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Muslims around the world differ greatly in their cultural practices.

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However they are united in the basic creed

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and tenets of the faith as a way of life.

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One of the Muslim traditions I find most intriguing is the mystical faith of the Sufis.

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These are Muslims who seek a direct spiritual union with God.

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Sufi Muslims can come from either the Sunni or the Shia traditions

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One of the most famous Sufi sects is the Mevlevi sect, better known as the Whirling Dervishes.

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I head north, to the ancient Ottoman city of Aleppo.

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I want to find out what lies behind the Whirling Dervishes' famous dance.

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Though they often appear on tourist brochures, Whirling Dervishes

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are actually viewed with suspicion by many Middle Eastern governments.

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Wandering through the narrow streets of the Old City, I come across a tiny mosque.

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1394, this is a Sufi mosque.

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And it's been here since 1394.

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The issue with Sufism is that slowly it's become more and more frowned upon by mainstream Islam.

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And it's here, hidden, tucked away now in the back streets of Aleppo.

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We've come here to this house which is attached to the mosque next door,

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and we're awaiting the arrival of a Mevlevi Sufi, someone that we know as a Whirling Dervish.

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But I want to find out why.

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Why is this whirling necessary, what's the spiritual purpose of it?

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HE SINGS IN ARABIC

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Within this state, you reach eternity - a joining of God and man.

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The Dervishes have found a niche to practise their rich spiritual tradition,

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despite the mistrust of mainstream Islam, and of many secular governments in the Middle East.

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We're just coming in to Istanbul.

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It's a city I've always wanted to go to, but what I didn't know

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is that here in Turkey, there is a religion with 20 million followers called Alevi,

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that I'd never heard of before, and it's that religion that I've come to find out about.

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Alevism is Turkey's second largest religion, and possibly its oldest, but they've suffered

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a history of discrimination and violent attacks that has made them very cautious of outsiders.

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As I head off to attend a weekly meeting of Alevis in the suburbs of Istanbul,

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I discover even the Turks don't know much about them.

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Alevism is a folk religion that started some time before Islam

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in the villages of Anatolia, a rural region of central Turkey.

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It shares many beliefs with Shia Islam and Christianity.

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But most Muslims regard them as heretics.

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The first difference I notice from Islam is that this private ceremony

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takes place not in a mosque, but an ordinary house.

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The next big difference is that men and women worship together.

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Like many Alevis, Ayse's life has been shaped by her faith.

0:30:290:30:34

Is it difficult being an Alevi?

0:30:340:30:36

Yes, at school my mum said, "Don't say you are an Alevi. Don't say."

0:30:360:30:44

-Why?

-I don't know why she said that sentence.

0:30:440:30:48

But nowadays, it's becoming dangerous.

0:30:490:30:53

But in my opinion, the main rule is to love everyone. Everyone.

0:30:550:31:01

Alevism is based on an oral tradition, not a sacred book.

0:31:010:31:06

One of the most important symbols in their songs is the crane.

0:31:100:31:14

This folk tradition is surviving in Turkey, despite a history of intolerance.

0:32:060:32:12

How do Buddhists get to heaven?

0:32:350:32:37

How do they escape the endless cycle of life, death and rebirth?

0:32:370:32:42

I am travelling to a village

0:32:420:32:44

in the Himalayan mountains called Jomsom,

0:32:440:32:47

to visit a Buddhist monastery.

0:32:470:32:48

What fascinates me about the Indian religion is their idea of the afterlife.

0:32:480:32:55

Christians like me believe the soul has one earthly life

0:32:550:32:59

and after death it is reunited with God in heaven.

0:32:590:33:02

Indian faiths believe in the transmigration of the soul.

0:33:020:33:07

Everyone's soul is trapped in a long cycle of birth and rebirth,

0:33:070:33:12

and it might take generations before the soul

0:33:120:33:16

is reunited with the ultimate source of being,

0:33:160:33:20

Brahman, or God in the case of Hinduism.

0:33:200:33:23

Or extinguished, in nirvana, in the case of Buddhism.

0:33:230:33:28

What I want to ask the Lama, and the monks there,

0:33:280:33:31

is about this notion of eternity, the notion of the wheel of life,

0:33:310:33:37

the notion that when we die,

0:33:370:33:39

rather than going to this paradise called heaven, we actually return here.

0:33:390:33:46

The Kutsab Ternga monastery sits on a high bluff overlooking the village.

0:33:490:33:56

That's the monastery up there.

0:33:560:33:58

The head monk has told me I can join one of their rituals.

0:33:580:34:02

It's a tough two-hour walk up to the top...

0:34:020:34:06

through a timeless landscape.

0:34:060:34:08

What happens in the afterlife is the fundamental basis

0:34:120:34:15

of most Indian religion.

0:34:150:34:18

Earthly life is seen as short, and full of suffering.

0:34:180:34:21

Faith offers a chance to escape from that suffering,

0:34:210:34:23

but Hindus and Buddhists provide different solutions.

0:34:230:34:26

Although Buddhism originated in India in the 6th century BC,

0:34:400:34:44

in its purest form, it no longer exists in the subcontinent.

0:34:440:34:48

Instead, they have Tibetan Buddhism, which arrived here

0:34:480:34:51

in Nepal in the 9th century AD.

0:34:510:34:54

CHANTING

0:34:540:34:57

All Buddhists believe that suffering and the cycle of reincarnation

0:34:590:35:02

is caused by our attachment to people and things.

0:35:020:35:06

Escape from the cycle is possible

0:35:060:35:08

through a life of meditation, and ultimately, enlightenment.

0:35:080:35:13

BELLS RING, DRUMS BEAT

0:35:230:35:27

THEY CHANT

0:35:500:35:52

The monastic life is a tough regime that few are capable of following,

0:35:520:35:57

but Tibetan Buddhism offers an attractive outcome.

0:35:570:36:02

Monks can accumulate good actions,

0:36:020:36:04

what Indian religion calls "good karma," and gradually

0:36:040:36:09

inch their way up the cycle of death and rebirth towards nirvana.

0:36:090:36:14

During another break for tea,

0:36:160:36:18

one of the senior monks answers my questions.

0:36:180:36:23

What is it to have good karma?

0:36:230:36:25

If I have bad karma in my life,

0:36:370:36:42

in my next life, what can I expect to happen?

0:36:420:36:45

I see.

0:36:550:36:58

Do animals have karma? Does that horse have karma?

0:36:580:37:01

So he could have been a woman or a man in a previous life?

0:37:150:37:19

I'm surprised at how young so many of the monks are here.

0:37:270:37:31

They are drawn from the surrounding villages.

0:37:310:37:34

And clearly, this is still a thriving religion.

0:37:340:37:37

One of them invites me to his cell on the second floor of this 14th-century monastery.

0:37:390:37:45

To my astonishment, it's like any teenager's bedroom at home.

0:37:450:37:50

-Is this your room?

-Yes.

0:37:500:37:52

-And your room?.

-Yes.

0:37:520:37:55

-So you both share?

-Yes, share.

-OK.

0:37:550:37:58

-How long have you been here?

-I've been here seven years.

0:37:580:38:01

-Seven years?

-Yes.

0:38:010:38:03

-In this room?

-Yes.

0:38:030:38:06

OK. Why have you got a picture of London Bridge on your wall?

0:38:060:38:09

How do you see your life from now on? What will you do?

0:38:120:38:17

I will...

0:38:170:38:19

-I hope.

-Are you going to be a monk?

-Yeah.

0:38:240:38:26

So, no girlfriends?

0:38:340:38:36

-No, no.

-No, no. Just a very strict, disciplined life.

0:38:360:38:41

OK.

0:38:410:38:43

It's a difficult thing to do.

0:38:430:38:45

-Yes. Very difficult.

-Very difficult.

-Yes.

0:38:450:38:48

For the monks, there is a world of difference between here and Tibet.

0:38:480:38:52

In Nepal, they are free to practise as they wish.

0:38:520:38:55

Just a few miles north in Tibet, Buddhism has come under sustained

0:38:550:39:00

attack from a secular Chinese government ever since it annexed the country in 1950.

0:39:000:39:06

The Tibetan Buddhist precepts of non-violent resistance now symbolise

0:39:060:39:12

a worldwide protest led by their exiled leader, the 14th Dalai Lama.

0:39:120:39:17

The Buddhists' way of deliverance from reincarnation is a demanding one.

0:39:170:39:22

Not all can manage the difficult path of these Tibetan Buddhist monks.

0:39:220:39:27

What fascinates me about the Indian religions is their idea of the afterlife.

0:39:270:39:34

Followers of religion are often forced to choose between following their religious leaders

0:39:450:39:50

and obeying their government.

0:39:500:39:52

I'm travelling to the Kalmyk Republic which used to be part of the Soviet Union.

0:39:520:39:58

The Kalmyk people originally came to this area of Southern Russia in the 17th century.

0:40:000:40:06

During the 2nd World War, Stalin deported the entire population to Siberia, where 50% of them perished.

0:40:060:40:14

They returned here in 1957, and really this whole landscape

0:40:140:40:21

must have seemed familiar to them,

0:40:210:40:23

must have reminded them of the Mongolian steppes from where they came.

0:40:230:40:28

And once again, the Kalmyk people can proudly boast to be the only Buddhist state in Europe.

0:40:320:40:38

They revere the Dalai Lama and frankly, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Tibet!

0:40:380:40:44

CHANTING

0:40:440:40:46

From a grey Russian winter...

0:40:480:40:51

..to tropical colour.

0:40:530:40:55

How wonderful.

0:40:550:40:57

The idea behind repeating the same chant is to actually fall into a meditative state,

0:41:030:41:09

where almost the words of the chant become immaterial,

0:41:090:41:13

and by taking it in

0:41:130:41:16

you are cleansed from samsara,

0:41:160:41:19

which is, what... the general state of being human.

0:41:190:41:24

The joy, the anguish, the pain, the dichotomy, the frustration,

0:41:240:41:29

and this process of meditation, meditative chanting,

0:41:290:41:33

-LOUD METALLIC BANGING

-..and banging of cymbals...

0:41:330:41:37

..cleanses you and leads you into a state where you're free.

0:41:380:41:45

It's remarkable to see Tibetan Buddhism flourishing far away from its homeland,

0:41:530:41:57

but even Russian tolerance has its limits.

0:41:570:41:59

The Dalai Lama is the spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhists across the world.

0:42:010:42:07

A visit from him would give a great boost in confidence to the Kalmyk people.

0:42:070:42:11

But Russian has denied permission for the Dalai Lama to visit them,

0:42:110:42:15

despite having built an enormous apartment on top of the temple especially for him.

0:42:150:42:22

This is very swish.

0:42:240:42:25

'But he hasn't even seen it.'

0:42:250:42:28

Dalai Lama bedroom.

0:42:280:42:31

Yup, Dalai Lama bathroom.

0:42:310:42:33

Dalai Lama meditation.

0:42:330:42:35

Yup. Meditation.

0:42:350:42:37

No-one, no-one else is allowed to stay here. We've been very privileged to be able to come here,

0:42:420:42:47

but he hasn't been here yet - it's been sitting here for two years.

0:42:470:42:51

No-one's sat on the sofas, no-one's turned the telly on,

0:42:510:42:55

No-one's turned the kettle on... Yet.

0:42:550:42:58

Indian society is divided into many castes.

0:43:120:43:14

A glance at the matrimonial pages in the newspapers shows exactly how many.

0:43:140:43:20

There is every caste represented here.

0:43:220:43:24

Punjabi, Sikh, Rajput, NRI - Non-Residents in India.

0:43:240:43:29

But, so far as I can see, there is no section for Parsis.

0:43:290:43:34

The Parsi population is shrinking and a Parsi wedding

0:43:340:43:39

is...is becoming an incredibly rare event...

0:43:390:43:44

and we're going to one!

0:43:440:43:46

1,300 years ago, the Zoroastrians or Parsis arrived in Mumbai

0:43:480:43:53

from Persia, fleeing Muslim persecution.

0:43:530:43:56

They were granted asylum so long as they did not seek to convert Hindus,

0:43:560:44:00

and this ancient promise is their historic problem.

0:44:010:44:04

Their numbers are dwindling.

0:44:040:44:06

I've come to the wedding to find out why.

0:44:060:44:10

So you have to be born, otherwise you can't join?

0:44:170:44:21

The wedding will take place behind the closed doors of the fire temple,

0:44:270:44:33

a place always absolutely forbidden to outsiders.

0:44:330:44:36

Zoroastrian fire temple. We're not really supposed to be filming here.

0:44:380:44:42

I've just been told it's not allowed.

0:44:430:44:45

Enigmatic!

0:44:470:44:48

Luckily, we find a Parsi cameraman

0:44:480:44:51

to give us a brief insight into this ancient monotheistic faith.

0:44:510:44:55

Have you used a camera like this before, Sir?

0:44:570:45:00

-Have you used a camera like this?

-No.

0:45:000:45:02

So we just have to hope that our cameraman-cum-wedding video bloke

0:45:030:45:08

does a good job.

0:45:080:45:09

'The ritual is ancient.

0:45:120:45:14

'At first, the bride and bridegroom are divided by a sheet,

0:45:140:45:17

'indicating their former separation.

0:45:170:45:20

'But then they are encircled by seven threads -

0:45:200:45:23

'each one easy enough to break in itself

0:45:230:45:27

'but when joined together, symbolising an unbreakable union.'

0:45:270:45:31

Keeping to the ancient promise not to convert has created a dilemma

0:45:380:45:42

for Zoroastrians, one which makes this orthodox marriage especially joyful.

0:45:420:45:47

Even the fathers accept that their other children

0:45:470:45:50

may well marry out of caste.

0:45:500:45:53

No, a heavy heart!

0:46:070:46:09

Love knows no boundaries!

0:46:120:46:14

-Because of the ancient promise.

-Yes, the promise.

0:46:190:46:21

-HE SNIFFS

-You can smell...

0:46:440:46:48

You can smell...burning flesh.

0:46:480:46:52

After death the bodies of most Hindus are cremated.

0:46:520:46:55

This takes place in sacred areas called ghats.

0:46:550:47:00

The cremation ghats in one particular place in India called Tarapeeth are unique.

0:47:000:47:06

Bodies are often only partially burnt

0:47:060:47:09

before being buried in shallow graves.

0:47:090:47:12

It means that they are accessible to Aghoris, who make their homes

0:47:120:47:16

among the cremation grounds.

0:47:160:47:17

Aghoris are holy men,

0:47:200:47:22

followers of the creator and destroyer god, Shiva.

0:47:220:47:25

Hindus see life and death as part of a cycle.

0:47:250:47:28

The gods create,

0:47:280:47:30

sustain and destroy the universe.

0:47:300:47:32

Shiva, the destroyer, is a key player in this cycle.

0:47:320:47:39

Aghoris believe all of creation is perfect, even death and decay.

0:47:390:47:43

To show their devotion, and to overcome their fear,

0:47:430:47:46

they will embrace death by being close to it.

0:47:460:47:49

'I'm expecting to meet a man, but instead I meet a holy woman.'

0:47:510:47:57

'This is Gauri Karima,

0:47:580:48:00

'who lives with her disciple just yards from the fires.'

0:48:000:48:03

I can't take my eyes off her necklace of skulls

0:48:060:48:09

carved from human bone.

0:48:090:48:11

In Hinduism one way of earning good karma is to devote your life to a holy cause.

0:48:140:48:18

And some Hindus feel called to do things that we would consider extraordinary.

0:48:180:48:23

Why do you choose to live around death?

0:48:230:48:27

In Hinduism many of the rules and laws are not written down.

0:49:050:49:09

Instead sacred knowledge is passed down

0:49:090:49:11

from generation to generation by wise holy people known as gurus.

0:49:110:49:16

To submit yourself to following this spiritual teaching of a particular guru

0:49:160:49:21

is seen as a very worthy thing to do.

0:49:210:49:25

Gauri came here because so many gurus have lived their lives here before she did.

0:49:250:49:30

By living close to death and the souls of her predecessors Gauri believes

0:49:500:49:55

that she will earn a better life for herself next time.

0:49:550:49:59

Many sects within Hinduism follow the teachings of different gurus,

0:50:180:50:23

spiritual leaders who interpret how the religion should be practiced.

0:50:230:50:28

If their message is popular, they can have thousands of devotees

0:50:280:50:32

and even start their own branch of the faith.

0:50:320:50:35

I'm off to the desert in Rajastan to meet a Hindu sect

0:50:370:50:41

whose followers are prepared to do anything for their guru,

0:50:410:50:45

including paying the ultimate sacrifice.

0:50:450:50:48

My journey takes me into a beautiful land of dramatic sand dunes,

0:50:500:50:54

with tiny farms and villages

0:50:540:50:56

scattered in the scrub woodland between.

0:50:560:50:59

The local wildlife, too, seems incredibly tame.

0:51:010:51:05

All this harmony is the result of a violent struggle

0:51:050:51:09

that took place here two-and-a-half centuries ago.

0:51:090:51:13

The story goes that in the late-18th century

0:51:130:51:16

the Maharaja of Jodhpur needed some wood to construct

0:51:160:51:22

a new palace, so he sent his men into the desert forests to get it.

0:51:220:51:27

But in the way stood the local guru.

0:51:270:51:30

I call in at a Bishnoi farmstead to find out more.

0:51:300:51:34

I heard that in the 18th century many Bishnoi

0:51:390:51:43

were killed protecting trees. Is that true?

0:51:430:51:47

How did that come about?

0:52:290:52:31

How did that tradition emerge?

0:52:310:52:33

By making trees sacred, the Guru had guaranteed

0:53:060:53:11

the survival of the Bishnoi in a harsh and unforgiving desert.

0:53:110:53:15

It is the first religion I have come across

0:53:150:53:18

where such deep respect for nature is enshrined in faith.

0:53:180:53:22

Over 2,500 years ago in ancient China

0:53:360:53:40

a man called Lao Tse came up with a new philosophy that tried to find

0:53:400:53:45

harmony in the chaos of the world.

0:53:450:53:49

It's called the Dao - the way.

0:53:510:53:53

You just need to find it.

0:53:530:53:56

I arrive at the Jade Spring monastery,

0:53:580:54:00

a Taoist temple 500 miles south-west of Beijing,

0:54:000:54:04

hoping to make sense of what I know to be a deeply enigmatic religion.

0:54:040:54:09

Master Mae, the deputy abbot, meets me by the gate.

0:54:100:54:14

We're just in time for the evening devotional.

0:54:140:54:18

BELL CHIMES

0:54:180:54:20

It's beautiful to watch. It feels mystical,

0:54:220:54:25

with very ancient rhythms and forces spanning thousands of years.

0:54:250:54:29

All I know is that there's no creation story in Daoism,

0:54:330:54:37

but beyond that, it's a mystery.

0:54:370:54:38

The answer will be clearer in the mountains, I'm told.

0:54:420:54:45

The next day we begin the 7,000-foot ascent to the sacred Hua Shan peaks,

0:54:450:54:51

for centuries the haunt of Taoist mystics seeking enlightenment.

0:54:510:54:56

Further up, there are symbols I recognise.

0:54:580:55:01

I've seen this round the necks of many Westerners

0:55:010:55:06

and I understand it as Yin and Yang, but what does it mean?

0:55:060:55:10

What does it really mean?

0:55:100:55:12

HE SPEAKS MANDARIN

0:55:120:55:14

Is it good and evil?

0:55:180:55:20

Dark and light?

0:55:200:55:22

Imbalance and harmony?

0:55:220:55:23

I feel as if I'm entering some kind of divine landscape,

0:55:390:55:42

but this is good for my brain cells.

0:55:420:55:45

Lao Tse said that there was a pre-existing order behind chaos.

0:55:450:55:49

And he called it the Dao,

0:55:490:55:51

an impersonal force that rules the universe.

0:55:510:55:54

It's made up of those two opposing, but complementary, forces -

0:55:570:56:02

the Ying and the Yang.

0:56:020:56:04

Light and dark. Male and female.

0:56:040:56:07

Hot and cold.

0:56:070:56:08

What's interesting is that when they act in harmony

0:56:130:56:16

they produce a kind of cosmic energy, called Qi.

0:56:160:56:20

I'm about to meet a monk seeking the Dao.

0:56:250:56:28

If you don't like heights, this is definitely not the place to come.

0:56:370:56:42

To my intense relief, there is a cave.

0:56:480:56:52

So this is the concentration of the Qi they speak of.

0:56:540:56:58

By human endeavour.

0:56:580:57:00

I was desperate to ask the master how on earth

0:57:240:57:26

they tapped into the Qi.

0:57:260:57:29

What are the basics of Daoism?

0:57:290:57:32

HE SPEAKS MANDARIN

0:57:320:57:34

How long have you been a Daoist monk?

0:57:560:57:58

What made you change?

0:58:040:58:06

The most extraordinary thing of all is the belief that if you do get

0:58:230:58:27

the Dao, you can live longer, and even achieve immortality.

0:58:270:58:32

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0:58:480:58:51

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0:58:510:58:55

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