Pennod 6 Aled Jones: Fy Nhaith Glasurol

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-We turn this time

-to one of Europe's major rivers.

-The boat takes us through

-some delightful scenery...

-..as we sail on to the next port.

-Rudesheim is a city

-in the valley of the River Rhine.

-As we approach the port,

-the views are quite stunning.

-This trip will be something special.

-Rudesheim is renowned for its wine.

-The Drosselgasse

-is full of wine bars and shops.

-With plenty going on,

-you eat and drink well.

-Cable cars, historic sites...

-..wonderful shops, monuments...

-..and excellent museums abound.

-Johannes Brahms holidayed here

-many times.

-This path is named after him.

-After Rudesheim comes another

-section of the Rhine valley.

-It is historic and beautiful.

-All along the river

-are castles or forts.

-They were once

-important defensive sites.

-Building them on the steep slopes

-was quite a challenge.

-This area, the Rheingau,

-is a famous wine region.

-It is as historic

-as Burgundy or Champagne.

-Certain white wines are familiar.

-Well, they are to me,

-especially the Rieslings.

-A ferry sails through the valley

-every day.

-You can stop to see the castles

-and, of course, to taste the wine.

-This stretch of the Rhine

-has many musical connections.

-The Rhinemaidens feature

-in two operas in Wagner's Ring.

-Jacques Offenbach's opera Rheinnixen

-was about Rhine fairies.

-It's easy to see how this land...

-..inspired so many artists

-and composers.

-Robert Schumann wrote

-a whole symphony praising it...

-..after he had a pleasant holiday

-here with his wife Clara in 1850.

-It was his Rhenish Symphony.

-The second movement

-reflects the river's flow.

-Schumann's initial title

-was Morning On The Rhine.

-Let's spend a while

-enjoying the enchanting views...

-..and the music inspired by them.

-This incredible 65-kilometre stretch

-of river is a World Heritage Site.

-What a great view of the Rhine.

-There are castles everywhere

-along the river.

-It winds through a narrow gorge

-with stunning views.

-This inspired Wagner's castle

-in the opera Gotterdammerung.

-The area abounds in legends,

-and has many historic links.

-The Lorelei rock

-is at the Rhine's narrowest point.

-Careful navigation is crucial.

-According to the legend...

-..a beautiful girl

-combed her hair here as she sang.

-She lured passing sailors

-to their death.

-By now, some castles

-have been demolished or restored.

-Marksburg

-is a rare original example.

-It gives a realistic feel

-of life in the Middle Ages.

-I'm in Marksburg Castle,

-built in the 12th century.

-It's an unrivalled landmark

-in these parts.

-It's a fair climb up here.

-It's a real step back into the past.

-It's such a well-preserved place.

-You can imagine being here

-at a medieval banquet.

-There's no finer example

-of a medieval castle than this one.

-It has a long history

-of noblemen and women...

-..of war and peace,

-and of politics and religion.

-These 15th century walls

-are intriguing.

-They were built by a warrior,

-aptly named John the Belligerent.

-Bonn and Cologne lie ahead.

-They are prominent places

-in the world of classical music.

-These are truly classical journeys.

-The music, the composers

-and our destinations.

-One such place is Bonn,

-where Beethoven was born.

-The city's beauty left its mark

-on much of his early life and music.

-It's a very important destination

-among my classical journeys.

-Like Cologne, Bonn's roots

-date back to Roman times.

-It was a military base.

-It was the 16th century seat

-of the Archbishopric of Cologne.

-It's still an administrative centre.

-This is St Martin's Cathedral.

-Architecturally significant

-is the contrast...

-..between the Romanesque

-and the Gothic.

-The cathedral was completed...

-..just as the foundation stone

-was laid at Cologne Cathedral.

-A mix of periods and styles

-is found here.

-The cathedral was badly damaged

-more than once during WW2.

-Beethoven's father and grandfather

-worked for the Elector of Cologne.

-Both were court musicians.

-His father taught the piano.

-Violin teaching

-was an extra source of income.

-In common with Mozart,

-Beethoven was a child prodigy.

-His father recognized his ability.

-He wished to nurture this talent.

-Young Ludwig had to practise

-until he was almost in tears.

-However, by the age of seven,

-Ludwig was giving concerts.

-Formal training as a composer

-and accompanist followed.

-At 17, he went to Vienna,

-hoping to study under Mozart.

-We don't know if the two ever met.

-Beethoven had to come home urgently.

-His mother was ill and sadly died.

-Before long, he too

-joined the court orchestra.

-He became a firm favourite

-with the Elector.

-It was he who arranged his move

-to Vienna at the century's end.

-Here, Haydn and Beethoven

-met for the first time.

-Haydn became his tutor.

-After Mozart's death...

-..Ludwig van Beethoven

-was expected to succeed him.

-Beethoven was born

-in this house in 1770.

-Who could have foreseen his

-composition of such great music?

-Nine symphonies, concertos

-for piano and violin...

-..and much more.

-It's very different

-to Mozart's birthplace.

-The throngs of tourists are absent.

-It feels more respectful.

-The family lived at the rear

-of the house, by this quiet garden.

-Beethoven was born

-in this very room.

-Nobody is allowed to enter it.

-It's an empty space.

-The life of one of classical

-music's greats began here.

-His parents had him christened

-at this nearby church.

-He lived here until he was 22.

-He never returned to Bonn...

-..but he is revered

-just as Mozart is in Salzburg.

-The museum here

-is heaven to Beethoven fans.

-There is so much to see here.

-This is important,

-his last pianoforte.

-He composed superb works

-on this particular piano.

-In the Munsterplatz is a statue

-of Beethoven the eminent musician.

-It commemorates his birth in 1770.

-He died at the age of 57.

-He was another great composer

-who died relatively young.

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-The next port of call

-on my classical journey is Cologne.

-We can't miss the dual spires

-of Cologne Cathedral.

-When Robert Schumann visited...

-..he was inspired

-to compose his third symphony.

-Cologne Cathedral was the stimulus

-for the fourth movement.

-The cathedral was unfinished

-when Schumann was here...

-..but it's another example

-of a place influencing a composer.

-His Rhenish Symphony has been linked

-with Beethoven's Pastoral Symphony.

-Beethoven's finale was a tempest.

-Schumann's was Cologne Cathedral.

-The exhilarating music

-befits this marvellous place.

-Miraculously, although Cologne

-was bombed repeatedly during WW2...

-..Cologne Cathedral

-suffered no permanent damage.

-Perhaps, as a reference point

-for the bombers, it was left alone.

-Or maybe someone

-from on high intervened.

-It's hard to convey its sheer size.

-Everything around it seems so small.

-This elegant Gothic church

-is the largest in northern Europe.

-Building work started in 1248,

-and wasn't completed...

-..until 600 years later.

-Cologne Philharmonic Hall

-is behind the cathedral.

-It seats 2,000 people.

-It's the focal point

-for classical music.

-There are some lovely views

-between Cologne and Amsterdam.

-It's a different landscape.

-As we cross into Holland,

-the countryside is transformed.

-We see the flat lands

-which typify this part of the world.

-One can't but notice

-Dutch order and discipline...

-..as we sail along the river.

-It's very exciting

-to sail into Amsterdam.

-It's a river city,

-famed for its canals.

-The harbour

-is all hustle and bustle.

-It's Holland's second-largest port.

-Pioneers and merchants

-have sailed from here for centuries.

-Here we are arriving in Amsterdam.

-Our journey through central Europe

-nears its end.

-But let's see the city of canals.

-It has also been called

-the Venice of the North.

-It was originally

-a small fishing village.

-The dam built on the River Amstel

-gave it its name.

-It's now one of the world's

-most important and busiest ports.

-Water is its lifeblood.

-The famous canal system

-dates from the mid-17th century.

-It facilitated transportation.

-There are 100 kilometres

-of canals in Amsterdam.

-There are 1,500 bridges

-connecting 90 islands.

-As in Venice, many buildings

-have wooden posts as foundations.

-The three main canals

-form a circle around the city.

-This is the Grachtengordl.

-Amsterdam's circle of canals

-is now on the World Heritage list.

-Cycling looks like hard work to me.

-Touring the city via the canals

-is more relaxing.

-If it's romance you're after...

-..an evening cruise

-is just the ticket!

-This little Amsterdam square...

-..is called Bagijnhof

-and dates from the 14th century.

-Religious lay sisters

-lived in these almshouses.

-They worked at the convent,

-part of the English Reformed Church.

-Retired people live here today.

-It's a quiet place

-within a busy city.

-The church is one

-of the city's oldest buildings.

-Interestingly, it's linked

-to the Church of Scotland.

-It's also known

-as the Scots Kirk of Amsterdam.

-Services in English are held here.

-Holland was a sanctuary

-for Protestants.

-Chamber music is popular now.

-70 concerts are held annually.

-As it's off the beaten track,

-it's a perfect concert venue.

-The Church of Scotland

-has a pleasant neighbour.

-This is a beautiful Gothic church,

-dating back to 1671.

-It's a quiet retreat for reflection

-and prayer in central Amsterdam.

-Only a short hop from the city

-lies this lovely village.

-It's a tour of Dutch history.

-It's an agreeable day out.

-We couldn't come to Holland

-without visiting a windmill.

-They look pretty,

-but they were working machines.

-They helped create the country.

-Without them, the land

-couldn't have been reclaimed.

-They pumped water,

-but were also used to make flour...

-..and any produce

-that needed grinding.

-This mill produces peanut oil.

-It's fascinating to learn

-how the internal machinery works.

-Nobody here need worry

-about carbon emissions.

-Ever-increasing modern mills

-across Europe produce clean energy.

-If Amsterdam is a city of canals,

-it's also a city of the arts.

-This is the Rijksmuseum,

-home to 5,000 works by the masters.

-If ever you visit Amsterdam,

-allow time to come here.

-There are over a million exhibits

-and it's still expanding.

-The Rijksmuseum has an extensive

-collection of the Dutch Masters...

-..but it also houses

-other types of art.

-It hosts a range of exhibitions,

-including photography.

-If time is short, Rembrandt's

-The Night Watch is a must-see...

-..as is Vermeer's Dairy Maid...

-..and Portrait Of A Young Couple

-by Frans Hals.

-Make time to see what you can

-in this remarkable museum.

-When you're done, the Van Gogh

-Museum is a stone's throw away.

-It is well worth a visit.

-The artist Vincent Van Gogh

-is well-known to all.

-He met with little success

-during his own lifetime.

-He didn't start to paint

-until his late twenties.

-He died at the age of 37.

-He had been a prolific artist.

-He had worked on 900 paintings...

-..and over a thousand drawings

-and sketches.

-Van Gogh would surely

-have sympathized with Mozart.

-The artist also died a pauper,

-though his work is now priceless.

-Some 200 of his works

-are displayed here.

-It's the world's largest collection.

-As with music, the influence

-of the environment affects artists.

-This is called The Harvest

-and is very atmospheric.

-You can almost hear the insects

-and the birdsong.

-Who perhaps might be the equal

-of Bach or Mozart in the art world?

-The answer is probably Rembrandt,

-an amazing talent.

-Sadly, he ended up bankrupt.

-His house in Amsterdam is today

-a popular and flourishing museum.

-It was originally built

-four centuries ago.

-The museum was opened a century ago.

-There are various drawings,

-hundreds of them.

-Through them,

-we see how Rembrandt worked.

-It's akin to an original score

-showing how a musician's mind works.

-The Concert-Gebouw is one

-of the world's best concert halls.

-The Great Hall

-can hold 2,000 people.

-The acoustics suit Mahler's

-stirring symphonies, for example.

-The city's other great musical

-centre is the Muziektheater.

-Mainly for opera,

-it's the home of Dutch Opera...

-..National Ballet

-and Holland Symphonia.

-Franz Liszt

-visited Amsterdam many times.

-In 1866, he attended a festival

-of concerts in his honour.

-Rhapsodie Espagnole

-was premiered there.

-He wrote an arrangement of Psalm 13

-for tenor, choir and orchestra.

-It was warmly received.

-Liszt was held in high regard

-in Amsterdam.

-He was a guest

-of Queen Sophie in The Hague.

-There are still plenty of places

-to stage music festivals here.

-Undoubtedly, this is an unexpected

-Amsterdam concert venue.

-But it's appropriate -

-a canal, of course.

-A famous one

-was the Prinsengracht concert.

-It was staged at Hotel Pulitzer,

-part of the Canal Festival.

-The concerts

-are still held every August.

-Large crowds attend, mainly by boat.

-No wonder it gets full here.

-It's the end of our long journey,

-and what a journey too!

-See you soon.

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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